START TO FINISH: 20 minutes
SERVINGS: 4
Made of just pasta, cheese and plenty of freshly ground black pepper, cacio e pepe is a study in the power of letting a few ingredients shine. The origins of the dish are debated—one theory is cheese and black pepper were the only ingredients shepherds could carry into the mountains. But it’s widely accepted as the mother of classic Roman pastas. Add pancetta and you have pasta alla gricia (recipe here). Add eggs and it becomes carbonara (recipe here). The pepper in cacio e pepe (literally, cheese and pepper) is key, cutting through the richness of the cheese and bringing balance to the dish. Pecorino Romano, a salty, hard sheep’s milk cheese, is traditional. We recommend looking for imported pecorino for the best flavor. The addition of cornstarch allowed us to overcome the tendency of lower-quality cheese to clump, but for best flavor, we recommend using pecorino imported from Italy.
Don’t use pre-shredded cheese, even if it’s true pecorino Romano. And grate it on a wand-style grater; larger shreds won’t melt. Don’t pour the pecorino mixture onto the piping-hot, just-drained pasta; letting the pasta cool for a minute or so ensures the mixture won’t break from overheating.
2 teaspoons cornstarch
6 ounces pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated (3 cups), plus more to serve
12 ounces linguini or spaghetti
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
In a large pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, whisk 1½ cups cold water and the cornstarch until smooth. Add the pecorino and stir until evenly moistened. Set the pan over medium-low and cook, whisking constantly, until the cheese melts and the mixture comes to a gentle simmer and thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Stir the pasta and 2 tablespoons salt into the boiling water and cook until al dente. Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta very well. Return the pasta to the pot and let cool for about 1 minute.
Pour the pecorino mixture over the pasta and toss with tongs until combined, then toss in 2 teaspoons pepper. Let stand, tossing two or three times, until most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. The pasta should be creamy, but not loose. If needed, toss in reserved pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time to adjust the consistency. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl and serve, passing more pecorino and pepper on the side.