CHAPTER 1

SEAR IT: HOT DIRECT GRILLING

Hot direct grilling is where it all began. This is how everybody learns to grill. It’s the most frequently used technique outdoors as well as in professional kitchens. Hot direct grilling is all about the sear, caramelization and speed. When we sear the exterior of a beautiful piece of meat, for example, we are caramelizing its natural proteins and sugars. This is inherently what everybody loves in grilled food—that charred crunch we find in everything from pork belly to lamb T-bones to tuna steak when they are cooked over a hot fire.

TAMARI-GLAZED STEAK WITH SWEET-AND-SPICY RICE

MAKES 4 SERVINGS FOR HUNGRY OR 6 FOR NORMAL PEOPLE

SKIRT AND FLANK STEAKS ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITES TO GRILL, BUT WHEN IT’S FANCY TIME WE GO FOR THE NEW YORK STRIP, A NICE 1-INCH/2.5CM-THICK CENTER CUT. YOU CAN’T GO WRONG WITH THIS. IT’S A LITTLE ON THE PRICEY SIDE, BUT IN OUR OPINION THE BEEF FLAVOR AND CHEW ARE SUPERIOR. LIKE SOY SAUCE, TAMARI IS MADE FROM FERMENTED SOYBEANS. BUT THIS JAPANESE CONDIMENT IS SLIGHTLY THICKER WITH A MORE COMPLEX, LESS SALTY FLAVOR. IT IS ALSO GLUTEN-FREE, WHICH IS AN ADVANTAGE FOR MANY PEOPLE.

THE KEY HERE IS TO BUILD AN EVEN, HIGH FIRE. IF IT’S TOO LOW, YOU WON’T GET THE CRUST THAT ROCKS PEOPLE’S WORLD. WITH THIS DISH YOU WANT A DEEP GOLDEN BROWN CRUST AND A PERFECT MEDIUM-RARE INSIDE. DON’T FORGET TO REST YOUR MEAT FOR 5 MINUTES AFTER COOKING IT. WE KNOW YOU’RE HUNGRY, BUT YOU’LL RUIN AN AWESOME STEAK BY CUTTING INTO IT TOO SOON BECAUSE ALL OF THE JUICES WILL RUN OUT.

WE FEEL IT’S REALLY IMPORTANT TO PULL OUR STEAKS OUT OF THE REFRIGERATOR 30 TO 40 MINUTES BEFORE STARTING TO COOK THEM. THIS WAY THEY TEMPER, MEANING THEY COME TO ROOM TEMPERATURE, AND COOK MORE EVENLY.

¼ cup/60ml tamari

¼ cup/60ml agave nectar or honey

2 tbsp/30ml rice wine vinegar

1 tbsp/12g sugar

½ tsp cayenne pepper

½ tsp ground white pepper

4 (12-oz/340g) center-cut New York strip steaks, about 1"/2.5cm thick

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Sticky Rice, for serving (recipe follows)

Sweet-and-Spicy Sauce, for serving (recipe follows)

Equipment: Wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, instant-read thermometer

Make the glaze: In a medium bowl, mix the tamari, agave, vinegar, sugar, cayenne and white pepper. Set aside.

Build a hot direct fire. Spread an even layer of unlit charcoal in the bottom of the grill. Fill a chimney with charcoal. Stuff two sheets of newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and light it. When the coals are fully engaged—you should see flames peeking over the top—pour them over the unlit charcoal. If using a gas grill, light the gas and adjust the temperature on both sides to high.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Season the steaks with salt and pepper and place on the grill. Cook for about 2½ minutes, then rotate 90 degrees and cook for about 2½ minutes more. At this point you should have a deep golden crust. Flip the steaks over and repeat. Using an instant-read thermometer, check the internal temperature. Steaks should be 125°F to 130°F/52°C to 54°C. Brush liberally with the glaze, flip over and caramelize for 20 seconds; repeat on the second side. Remove from the grill and place on a cooling rack set in a baking sheet for 5 minutes. If you have any glaze left, pour some over the steaks while they are resting, reserving some to drizzle just before serving.

Evenly distribute the rice among 4 to 6 plates, mounding the rice on each plate. Make a shallow well in each mound with the back of a spoon, and pour a liberal spoonful of the Sweet-and-Spicy Sauce into each, drizzling a little around the base. Slice the steak and arrange it in overlapping layers over the rice. Drizzle with any remaining glaze.

STICKY RICE

MAKES 6 CUPS/1200G RICE

3 cups/700g sushi rice

4½ cups/1070ml cold water

Rinse the sushi rice with cold water in a colander until the water is clear. Place in bowl and let sit for 15 minutes. Place the rice and the 4½ cups/1070ml water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Give it a quick stir, reduce the heat to low, cover and let simmer for 20 minutes, until soft.

Remove from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes before serving.

SWEET-AND-SPICY SAUCE

MAKES ½ CUP/120ML SAUCE

½ cup/100g sugar

¼ cup/60ml water

1 serrano or jalapeño pepper, stemmed and minced, with seeds

1 small red onion, minced

¼ cup/60ml fresh lime juice

2 tbsp/30ml fish sauce

2 tbsp/10g cilantro leaves, chopped

In a small saucepan over high heat, bring the sugar, water and pepper to a boil, stirring frequently, until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, place in a small bowl and cool in the refrigerator. When thoroughly chilled, stir in the remaining ingredients. Set aside until rice is done.

NICK STELLINO’S GRILLED STEAK WITH COFFEE RUB

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

WE ARE PROUD TO CALL NICK STELLINO, CHEF, COOKBOOK AUTHOR AND HOST OF THE PBS SHOW COOKING WITH NICK STELLINO, OUR FRIEND. AND WE’RE THRILLED THAT HE LET US INCLUDE THIS EASY AND FABULOUS RECIPE.

DRY RUBS ARE ONE OF OUR FAVORITE WAYS TO ADD FLAVOR, AND THIS ONE IS SPECTACULAR BECAUSE IT ADDS TO THE FLAVOR OF AN ALREADY GREAT STEAK. YOU NEVER WANT TO APPLY A RUB MORE THAN 4 HOURS BEFORE YOU ARE READY TO COOK, BECAUSE THE SALT WILL START TO CURE THE MEAT. WHEN YOU ARE READY, WE SUGGEST LIGHTLY SPRINKLING THE RUB ON FIRST, THEN LIGHTLY PATTING IT. COME TO THINK OF IT, THE WORD RUB IS A BIT OF A MISNOMER BECAUSE WE ARE TRYING TO SEASON THE MEAT, NOT FORCE IT INTO THE CENTER.

1 tbsp/5g finely ground espresso coffee

1 tbsp/5g onion powder

1 tbsp/5g paprika

1 tsp salt

1 tsp pepper

1 tsp chili powder

1 tbsp/12g brown sugar

4 rib-eye steaks, approximately 12 oz/340g each

Make the coffee rub: In a small bowl, thoroughly combine everything but the steak.

If the steaks have been in the refrigerator, bring them to room temperature for 30 minutes to an hour. Pat them dry with paper towels, and coat them thoroughly on all sides with the rub. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Grill the steaks, covered, for about 4½ minutes. Flip the steaks and cook for another 4½ minutes, or until a thermometer registers 125°F/52°C for medium-rare. If you like your steaks more well done (but why would you?), cook for another minute or two. Transfer the steaks to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

TWICE-COOKED NEW ENGLAND STYLE STEAK TIP SKEWERS

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

FLAP MEAT, BY ANY OTHER NAME … HERE IN NEW ENGLAND, WE CALL ‘EM STEAK TIPS (OR SIRLOIN TIPS), AND WE LOVE ‘EM AS MUCH AS WE LOVE OUR RED SOX, PATRIOTS, BRUINS AND CELTICS. THIS DELICIOUS, INEXPENSIVE CUT IS PERFECT FOR SKEWERING AND GRILLING BECAUSE IT IS JUICY AND TENDER AND ABSORBS MARINADES BEAUTIFULLY.

WE’RE COMBINING A COUPLE OF METHODS HERE, GRILLING THE STEAK TIP SKEWERS AND VEGETABLES DIRECTLY OVER THE FIRE SEPARATELY, THEN FINISHING THE MEAT OFF THE SKEWERS—AGAIN OVER THE FIRE-IN A PAN WITH THE GRILLED VEGETABLES.

WE LIKE TO USE METAL SKEWERS FOR THIS RECIPE BECAUSE WE ARE DIRECT GRILLING. THEY WON’T BURN AND ARE REUSABLE.

3 lb/1360g sirloin tips, cut into approximately 2" to 3"/5cm to 7.6cm cubes

Kosher salt

2 cups/200g button mushrooms

1 sweet onion, cut into ½"/13mm-thick slices

Vegetable oil, for grilling

1 red bell pepper, halved, cored and seeded

½ cup/120ml Soy Sake Sauce (recipe follows)

8 cherry tomatoes, halved

Equipment: Eight 12"/30cm skewers, preferably metal; 12"/30cm cast-iron skillet, instant-read thermometer

Thread the sirloin tips onto skewers and season lightly with salt. Thread the whole button mushrooms onto skewers. Set aside.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Heat a large cast-iron pan over the fire for about 3 to 5 minutes. Wearing heatproof gloves, remove the pan from the fire and set aside on a heatproof surface.

Brush each side of the onion slices with oil and grill for 3 minutes per side. Cut each slice into quarters and transfer to the cast-iron pan.

Grill the pepper for 2 minutes per side, or until well charred. Cut each half into quarters and transfer to the cast-iron pan.

Grill the steak skewers for 2 minutes per side or until a thermometer inserted into a piece registers 120°F/49°C. Remove the meat from the skewers and set on top of the grilled vegetables.

Grill the mushroom skewers for 2 minutes per side. Remove from the skewers and set on top of the meat. Drizzle the Soy Sake Sauce into the pan and add the cherry tomatoes. Toss to blend the ingredients. Place the cast-iron pan back on the grill for 3 to 4 minutes to warm. Serve immediately.

SOY SAKE SAUCE

MAKES 2 CUPS/475ML

½ cup/120ml soy sauce

½ cup/120ml sake

1 cup/240ml water

1 scallion, thinly sliced

2 tsp/3g red pepper flakes

In a small mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

LAMB T-BONES AND MINT PISTOU

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

THE FRESH, BRIGHT FLAVORS OF THE PISTOU (A FRENCH VERSION OF ITALIAN PESTO, WITHOUT THE NUTS AND CHEESE) PAIRED WITH THE LAMB TAKE THIS DISH OVER THE TOP.

IT’S BEST TO BUY LAMB T-BONES THAT ARE AT LEAST 1 INCH/2.5CM THICK. LAMB HAS A TENDENCY TO FLARE UP DUE TO THE FAT ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CHOP AS WELL AS THE MARINADE. KEEP AN EYE ON IT AND MOVE THE MEAT AROUND THE GRILL IF YOU SEE FLARE-UPS HAPPENING. A GOOD REST MAKES THE MEAT TENDER AND JUICY.

¼ cup/60ml olive oil

Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon

¼ cup/20g roughly chopped parsley leaves

2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

1 sprig rosemary leaves, chopped

Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

8 (1"/2.5cm thick) lamb T-bones, fat trimmed off side

Mint Pistou, for serving (recipe follows)

Equipment: Instant-read thermometer

Make the marinade: Place the olive oil, lemon juice and zest, parsley, garlic and rosemary in a food processor and purée until smooth. Stir in salt and pepper to taste. You want the marinade to be just a little too salty and peppery. Since you are not marinating the inside of the meat, the outside flavor has to be big and bold.

Rub the lamb all over with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Turn the lamb over and refrigerate for at least 1 and up to 8 hours more. This would be a good time to make the pistou.

Remove the meat from the refrigerator 30 minutes before you want to grill.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Brush the marinade off the T-bones and place them in the center of the grill. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the lamb is dark golden brown. Flip over and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes, until a thermometer inserted into the meat registers 130°F/54°C.

Let the lamb rest for 5 minutes on a wire rack. Transfer to a platter and drizzle the pistou over the meat, passing any that remains. We’d eat this all day with some grilled asparagus and polenta. Just sayin’.

MINT PISTOU

MAKES 1 CUP/240ML

1 cup/80g roughly chopped fresh mint leaves

½ cup/40g fresh parsley leaves

1 clove garlic

½ tsp red pepper flakes

½ cup/120ml olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Place the mint, parsley, garlic and red pepper flakes in a food processor. Turn the motor on and add the oil in a slow, steady stream through the feed tube until you have a smooth, pourable paste. Transfer to a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

GRILLED PORK BELLY GERMAN POTATO SALAD

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

THIS IS A PERFECT DISH TO MAKE A FEW DAYS AHEAD FOR A PICNIC OR PARTY; THOUGH IN OUR CASE, WE CAN NEVER WAIT. WE ALWAYS EAT IT RIGHT AWAY.

MOST TIMES WHEN GRILLING PORK BELLY WE USE THE SLOW METHOD. HERE WE COOK THE BELLY FAST AND FURIOUS. SINCE WE’RE GRILLING THIN STRIPS (YES, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE BACON, IF YOU MUST), WE WANT TO HAVE A MEDIUM TO HIGH FIRE. THIS WILL CRISP UP THE MEAT AND ADD AN EXCELLENT CHARRED FLAVOR TO THE SALAD. AND YOU KNOW WE LOVE THAT CHARRED FLAVOR.

1½ lb/680g Yukon gold potatoes, washed, skin on, cut into ½"/13mm dice

2 tbsp/36g kosher salt

½ lb/230g pork belly, sliced into ¼"/6mm-thick strips

¼ cup/60ml aged sherry vinegar or cider vinegar

2 tbsp/30ml olive oil

1 tbsp/15g whole-grain mustard

2 tsp/6g rosemary leaves, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

2 scallions, cut into ¼"/6mm-thick rings

2 stalks celery, diced

¼ cup/20g parsley leaves, roughly chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Build a hot direct fire. Spread an even layer of unlit charcoal in the bottom of the grill. Fill a chimney with charcoal. Stuff two sheets of newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and light it. When the coals are fully engaged—you should see flames peeking over the top—pour them over the unlit charcoal. If using a gas grill, light gas and adjust the temperature on both sides to high.

Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, fill with just enough cold water to cover, add the kosher salt and place over high heat. When the water begins to boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. When the potatoes are done, strain and run cold water over the potatoes until cool. Drain thoroughly and set aside.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Carefully lay the pork belly strips perpendicular to the grate. Grill for about 30 seconds, then flip, using long tongs—there will be flare-ups. Repeat this process twice on each side. Remove the belly from the grill and transfer to a baking sheet to cool. We don’t put it on paper towels to drain because we want those extra juices in our salad (mmmm, pork fat). Once the meat has cooled, cut the strips crosswise into ¼ inch/6mm pieces.

In a medium-size mixing bowl, whisk the vinegar, oil, mustard, rosemary and garlic until well blended. Add the cooked potatoes, pork belly, scallions, celery and parsley to the bowl, and very gently fold together. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately, or refrigerate until needed, up to 3 days.

GRILLED SHRIMP, ROMAINE AND RADICCHIO SALAD

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

GRILLING LETTUCE IS A FANTASTIC WAY TO ADD THOSE GREAT CHAR FLAVORS TO A SALAD. THE KEY IS TO SEAR THE LEAVES WITHOUT WILTING THEM TOO MUCH. LEAVE THIS FOR THE LAST MOMENT, AND THEY WILL STILL BE TENDER AND CRISP-AND CHARRED.

A PERFECTLY GRILLED SHRIMP SHOULD HAVE A SLIGHT SNAP TO IT AND BE SWEET AND JUICY. PAY ATTENTION TO THE SIDES OF THE SHRIMP TO SEE WHEN THEY CHANGE FROM TRANSLUCENT TO WHITE. THEY WILL CONTINUE TO COOK A BIT EVEN AFTER THEY’RE OFF THE GRILL, SO JUST BEFORE THEY ARE TOTALLY WHITE, PULL THEM OFF, LET STAND FOR A FEW SECONDS, THEN SERVE.

Juice of 2 lemons

cup/80ml olive oil

1 shallot, minced

¼ cup/20g chopped fresh parsley leaves

4 leaves fresh basil, roughly chopped

1 tsp red pepper flakes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Olive oil, for grilling

8 to 12 shrimp (U-12), peeled and deveined

1 head romaine, outer leaves removed, quartered through the core (no need to cut off the end)

1 small head radicchio, loose leaves removed, quartered through the core (no need to cut off the end)

1 wedge (about 4 oz/113g) Parmesan or your favorite hard cheese, for garnish

Make the vinaigrette: In a large bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, shallot, parsley, basil and red pepper flakes. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Lightly oil the shrimp and season with salt and pepper. Grill for 1 minute, rotate 90 degrees and then flip. Continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes more until the outer skin is pinkish red with a slight char on it and the split side has just turned from translucent to white. Remove the shrimp from the grill, place in the vinaigrette bowl and toss.

Make the salad: Lightly oil the romaine and radicchio and season with salt and pepper. Place the romaine quarters on the grill and cook for 1 minute per side (there are 3 sides), until it is slightly charred and lightly warmed. Transfer to a cutting board and roughly chop the leaves; discard the cores. Scatter the leaves over the serving plate. Repeat with the radicchio, and scatter the leaves over the romaine.

Spoon the shrimp in the vinaigrette evenly over the lettuces. Using a vegetable peeler, shave some Parmesan over the salad. Serve immediately.

CURRIED CHICKEN TENDERLOINS WITH COCONUT AND PAPAYA SALAD

MAKES 2 ENTRÉE OR 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS

THE COMBINATION OF SWEET AND SPICY CHICKEN, CRUNCHY COCONUT AND A CARIBBEAN-INFLECTED SALAD MAKES THIS DISH ABSOLUTELY ADDICTIVE. CHICKEN TENDERLOINS ARE THE PERFECT TWO- OR THREE-BITE MEAT, REALLY COST-EFFECTIVE AND—WHEN DONE RIGHT—JUICY AND TENDER. THE PROBLEM IS THE TENDON THAT YOU HAVE TO REMOVE. THIS IS TRICKY AND TAKES SOME PRACTICE. WE CAN HELP.

TO REMOVE THE TENDON, FIRST FIND ITS WHITE TIP, STICKING OUT OF THE FAT END OF THE TENDER. PINCH IT BETWEEN YOUR THUMB AND FOREFINGER AND HOLD IT FIRMLY AGAINST THE CUTTING BOARD (YOU MAY WANT TO USE A PAPER TOWEL; IT GETS SLIPPERY). PLACE THE TIP OF A PARING KNIFE JUST BEYOND YOUR FINGER, BETWEEN THE TENDON AND THE MEAT, AND USE A LIGHT SAWING MOTION TO PUSH THE MEAT AWAY FROM YOU, SLIDING IT OFF THE TENDON. IT’S NOT AS TOUGH AS IT SOUNDS, WE PROMISE.

1 cup/240g Greek-style yogurt

Juice and zest of 1 lime

2 tbsp/30ml red wine vinegar

1 tbsp/5g minced fresh ginger

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tsp/4g garam masala

2 tsp/4g kosher salt

2 tsp/4g ground black pepper

1 tsp curry powder

2 lb/900g chicken tenderloins, tendons removed

Coconut and Papaya Salad (recipe follows)

Make the marinade: In a large bowl, thoroughly mix all the ingredients except the chicken and salad.

Toss the chicken in the marinade to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Place the tenderloins perpendicular to the bars and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. The goal is to get a good sear without burning the meat. Once the marinade and chicken start to caramelize, flip the chicken and continue to cook. Repeat this process so the chicken cooks twice on both sides, for a total of 4 to 8 minutes (depending on the thickness of the tenderloins). Tenderloins are done when they are deep golden brown to lightly charred and have an internal temperature of 165°F/74°C. Serve immediately over the salad, or cool and serve cold with the salad.

COCONUT AND PAPAYA SALAD

MAKES 2 ENTRÉE OR 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS

2 ripe papayas, peeled, seeded and diced

1 medium red onion, julienned

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced

½ cup/120ml coconut cream or unsweetened coconut milk

Juice and minced zest of 2 limes

¼ cup/20g cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

1 jalapeño pepper, stemmed, seeded and minced

1 tbsp/12g sugar

1 tbsp/5g peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 tsp coriander seed, toasted and ground

1 tbsp/15ml olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

¼ cup/25g unsweetened coconut flakes, toasted to golden brown

In a bowl, combine the papaya, onion, bell pepper, coconut cream, lime juice and zest, cilantro, jalapeño, sugar, ginger, coriander and oil. Season with salt and pepper and set aside. (Cover and refrigerate if you are using it the next day.) Just before serving, sprinkle the toasted coconut on top.

GRILLED SPAM LOCO MOCO WITH CURRIED SLAW

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

YES, SPAM! IT GETS A BAD RAP, BUT WE REALLY DO LOVE IT. WHEN COOKED RIGHT, IT GETS A WONDERFUL, CRUNCHY EXTERIOR AND A CREAMY CENTER. THINK OF IT AS OLD-SCHOOL CHARCUTERIE. TELL YOUR FRIENDS YOU GOT IT AT THE NEW BUTCHER EVERYONE’S TALKING ABOUT AND YOU’LL GET RAVES. THEN PULL OUT THE CAN AT THE END AND YELL, “SPAM!” IF ANYBODY IS CURIOUS, LOCO MOCO IS A POPULAR HAWAIIAN MEAL THAT TYPICALLY INCLUDES WHITE RICE TOPPED WITH A HAMBURGER, A FRIED EGG AND GRAVY. VARIATIONS CAN FEATURE A HOST OF MEATS, INCLUDING OUR FAVORITE, SPAM.

AS WITH ALL DIRECT-FIRE COOKING, YOU HAVE TO WATCH OUT FOR BURNING. SPAM, LIKE ANY SAUSAGE, HAS A HIGH FAT-TO-MEAT RATIO, WHICH MAKES IT PARTICULARLY SUSCEPTIBLE TO FLARE-UPS. MAKE SURE YOUR GRILL IS VERY CLEAN AND FLIP THE MEAT AS SOON AS YOU SEE A NICE CHAR.

2 cups/475ml Curried Slaw (recipe follows)

1 cup/240ml Island Barbecue Sauce, warm (recipe follows)

2 cups/475ml Grilled Onion Gravy, hot (recipe follows)

1 can (12 oz/340g) Spam

Vegetable oil for grilling

4 eggs

4 cups/950g steamed white rice 1 tomato, chopped

¼ cup/20g minced parsley

You can make the Curried Slaw, Island Barbecue Sauce and Grilled Onion Gravy up to 3 days before serving.

While the fire is heating, slice the Spam into eight ½ inch/13mm slices and brush them with oil. When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Grill the Spam for 3 minutes, turn it over and grill 3 minutes more. Brush with barbecue sauce, turn over and grill 1 minute. Brush the second side with sauce, turn and grill 1 minute more, until the Spam is sticky and slightly charred around the edges.

Fry the eggs, and while they are cooking, mound 1 cup/240g cooked rice in each of 4 bowls. Ladle the hot Grilled Onion Gravy over the rice in each bowl. Place 2 slices of Spam and a fried egg on top of the rice, and sprinkle the dish with the tomato and minced parsley. Add a scoop of Curried Slaw on the side.

CURRIED SLAW

MAKES 4 CUPS/280G

4 cups/280g shredded cabbage

1 large carrot, peeled and shredded

2 scallions, sliced

½ cup/75g golden raisins

¼ cup/60ml olive oil

2 tbsp/30ml rice wine vinegar

1 tbsp/15ml fresh lime juice (from about ½ lime)

1 tbsp/15ml agave nectar or honey

6 mint leaves, cut into chiffonade

1 tsp curry powder

1 tsp black poppy seeds

1 tsp kosher salt

½ tsp ground white pepper

In a large bowl, mix the cabbage, carrot, scallions and raisins. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients. Pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture. Mix well, cover and refrigerate overnight or up to 3 days.

ISLAND BARBECUE SAUCE

MAKES 4 CUPS/950ML

½ cup/120g brown sugar

½ cup/120ml apple cider vinegar

2 tbsp/10g minced fresh ginger

1 tbsp/5g garlic powder

1 tsp curry powder

½ tsp Chinese five-spice powder

1 cup/240ml pineapple juice

1 cup/240ml ketchup

In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring the brown sugar and vinegar to a simmer. Add the ginger, garlic powder, curry powder and Chinese five-spice powder, and simmer for 10 minutes, whisking often. Add the pineapple juice and ketchup. Simmer for 30 minutes more, whisking occasionally. Keeps for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.

GRILLED ONION GRAVY

MAKES 1½ CUPS/350ML

1 large sweet onion, cut into ½"/ 13mm-thick slices

1 large portobello mushroom cap

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tbsp/15g butter

½ tbsp/7.5g flour

2 cups/475ml beef stock or beef broth, at room temperature

2 tbsp/30ml Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp onion powder

1 tsp garlic powder

Build a hot direct fire (following directions above). When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, season the onion and mushroom with salt and pepper and grill for 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove from the grill and coarsely chop. Place the butter and flour in a medium saucepan and set on the grill. When the butter melts, stir constantly to blend, about 1 minute. Add the broth, Worcestershire sauce, onions and mushroom to the gravy and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Stir in onion and garlic powders and season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for up to 3 days.

SEARED GREENS WITH GRILLED CHICKEN LIVERS AND BLUE CHEESE

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

TANGY BLUE CHEESE IS A PERFECT FOIL FOR EARTHY SEARED GREENS. WHEN GRILLING LIVERS, WE FIND IT IS BEST TO SKEWER THEM. THEY ARE VERY SLIPPERY WHEN RAW AND CAN SLIP THROUGH THE GRILL GRATES EASILY. IF USING WOOD SKEWERS, BE SURE TO SOAK THEM IN WATER FIRST, SO THEY DON’T CATCH FIRE.

1 lb/450g chicken livers, trimmed and cut into chunks if large

Vegetable oil

2 tbsp/10g coarsely ground black pepper

1½ tsp/9g kosher salt

1 red onion, cut into ½"/13mm-thick slices

1 lemon, cut in half

1 tbsp/15ml olive oil

2 lb/900g beet greens or Swiss chard, washed well, stems trimmed, coarsely chopped

1 tsp red pepper flakes

cup/80ml red wine vinegar

4 oz/113g blue cheese (splurge on the good stuff; don’t buy pre-crumbled)

Equipment: Twelve 8"/20cm skewers, 12"/30cm cast-iron pan

Thread the livers onto the skewers, brush with vegetable oil, rub with the black pepper and sprinkle with the salt. Set aside.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Grill the onion for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until slightly charred. Set aside.

Grill the livers for 3 minutes per side until well charred on the exterior and still medium-rare (pink) inside, about 140°F/60°C. Do not overcook them. Remove the livers and set aside with the onion. Squeeze lemon over the livers.

Heat a 12 inch/30cm cast-iron pan over the fire. When it’s hot (a drop of water should sizzle and evaporate almost immediately), add the olive oil, then the greens, and sear, stirring occasionally, for 1 to 2 minutes, until they begin to wilt. Add the red pepper flakes and vinegar and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

Divide the greens among 4 or 6 serving plates. Top with the livers and some of the grilled onion rings. Place the sliced or coarsely crumbled blue cheese on top. Drizzle each dish with some of the vinegar remaining in the pan.

ERIC’S MOLASSES-CHIPOTLE GLAZED SWEET POTATOES

MAKES 4 TO 8 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS

THIS IS A GO-TO DISH AT ANDREA’S HOUSE WHENEVER HER HUSBAND, ERIC, TAKES OVER GRILLING DUTIES. MOLASSES IS A BEAUTIFUL BASE FOR GLAZE TO BRUSH ON MANY GRILLED ITEMS. IT ADDS A SWEET, STICKY COATING THAT PROVIDES AN IDEAL CONTRAST TO THE SMOKE. ONE OF OUR FAVORITE TRICKS IS TO COAT A MEASURING CUP WITH VEGETABLE OIL BEFORE ADDING THE MOLASSES, TO MAKE IT POUR OUT EASILY.

4 medium-size sweet potatoes or yams, about 10 oz/284g each

1½ tbsp/22g butter

¼ cup/60ml molasses

¼ cup/60ml orange juice

1 tbsp/15ml light agave nectar or honey

1 tsp chipotle powder

¼ tsp cinnamon

Olive oil, for brushing

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Microwave the sweet potatoes until a fork can penetrate with slight resistance, approximately 6 minutes on high power, turning over once. Let cool.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the molasses, orange juice and agave nectar, stirring gently until blended. Add the chipotle powder and cinnamon and stir until combined. Turn the heat down and simmer over medium-low for at least 15 minutes, or until ready to use.

Slice the sweet potatoes in half and brush lightly all over with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Place the sweet potatoes flesh-side down on the grate and grill for approximately 3 minutes. (There should be grill marks on the flesh side.) Flip the potatoes and grill for another 3 minutes. Brush the glaze on the flesh sides and flip again, grilling flesh-side down for 1 minute. Lightly brush the skin side with the glaze and turn the potatoes over. Grill for 1 minute more, while brushing additional glaze on the flesh side. Flip again and grill for 30 seconds, then remove from the grill.

Serve immediately or cover loosely with aluminum foil to serve warm or at room temperature, passing any remaining glaze as a sauce.

CHARRED SPRING VEGETABLES

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

WHEN WE GRILL VEGETABLES—WHICH IS AS OFTEN AS POSSIBLE—WE USUALLY DO IT ONE AT A TIME, BECAUSE THEY DO NOT ALL COOK AT THE SAME SPEED. WE DON’T WANT TO NAME NAMES, BUT TOO OFTEN WE SEE PEOPLE CROWD THEIR GRILLS. THIS CAN KEEP OXYGEN FROM GETTING TO THE FIRE, ULTIMATELY LEADING IT TO DIE DOWN IF YOU’RE NOT PAYING VERY CLOSE ATTENTION.

WE LIKE TO KEEP THE PREPARATION AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE, TO LET THE VEGETABLES’ NATURAL FLAVORS SHINE THROUGH, BUT LEMON ZEST AND SMOKED PAPRIKA ADD A NICE KICK. THIS DISH IS MEANT TO BE SERVED AT ROOM TEMPERATURE BUT IS FANTASTIC CHILLED AS WELL. FEEL FREE TO MAKE IT THE DAY BEFORE YOU PLAN TO SERVE IT.

3 or 4 radishes, thinly sliced

6 tbsp/90ml olive oil, divided

3 young spring onions or 3 small yellow onions, peeled

8 carrots, preferably heirloom variety, peeled and cut about 4"/10cm long and 1"/2.5cm thick

1 bunch asparagus, thick ends removed

1 tsp kosher salt

1 tsp ground black pepper

½ tsp red pepper flakes

1 tsp smoked paprika (optional)

2 tsp/3g lemon zest

In a large stainless steel bowl, toss the radishes with 1 tablespoon/15ml of the olive oil.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Set a large cast-iron pan directly over the fire to heat for 3 to 5 minutes. When a droplet of water sizzles, the pan is ready. Cook the radishes for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the pan from the grill and set aside.

Toss the onions in the bowl with another 1 tablespoon/15ml olive oil. Grill the onions directly over the fire until charred on all sides, about 5 minutes. Slice lengthwise into quarters and transfer to the pan with the radishes. Toss the carrots in the bowl with 1 tablespoon/15ml of the olive oil. Set crosswise on the grill grates and grill for about 3 to 5 minutes, until charred on all sides but still a bit raw. Place the carrots in the cast-iron pan. Repeat with the asparagus and 1 tablespoon/15ml oil, grilling for 3 to 4 minutes. Season the charred vegetables with salt, black pepper, red pepper flakes, paprika and the remaining 2 tablespoons/30ml olive oil. Stir gently, and return the pan to the grill for a few minutes until the vegetables are warm. Transfer all the vegetables to a clean bowl and sprinkle with the lemon zest. Toss and serve.

Onions grill directly over fire

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BRENDAN’S CHAMPIONSHIP TUNA

MAKES 6 APPETIZER SERVINGS

WHEN WE COMPETE ON THE BARBECUE CIRCUIT, WE SOMETIMES GET BEATEN BY SOME REALLY GREAT COOKS. BRENDAN BUREK IS ONE OF THEM. WE HAVE SEEN HIM WIN WITH THIS DISH A FEW TIMES. THIS TRIPTYCH OF KILLER RECIPES—WASABI-COATED TUNA, SWEET ONION CORN CAKES AND AVOCADO SALAD—WILL TOTALLY WOW YOUR FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS. EACH ELEMENT IS AWESOME ON ITS OWN, BUT TOGETHER THEY FORM A PERFECT UNION.

WE TRY TO GET A PERFECT SEAR ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE TUNA WHILE KEEPING THE INSIDE RARE. IT’S BEST TO HAVE THE STEAK CUT INTO CUBES WHENEVER POSSIBLE. IF YOUR PIECE IS NOT VERY THICK, WATCH CAREFULLY AND REDUCE YOUR COOKING TIME.

1 cup/240ml olive oil

½ cup/120ml soy sauce

1 tbsp/5g ground ginger

1 tsp onion powder

1 tsp garlic powder

½ tsp sesame oil

1½ tsp/7.5g ground black pepper, divided

1 lb/450g tuna steak, cut into six 2"/ 5cm cubes

1 cup/150g wasabi peas

1 tsp kosher salt

Sweet Onion Corn Cakes (recipe follows)

Wasabi Avocado Salad (recipe follows)

In a 1-gallon/3.8L plastic zipper bag, combine the olive oil, soy sauce, ginger, onion and garlic powders, sesame oil and ½ tsp of the black pepper. Shake to incorporate the ingredients. Place the tuna pieces in the bag and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

In a spice grinder, combine the wasabi peas, salt and remaining 1 tsp pepper. Pulse until the peas are reduced to a fine powder. Transfer to a shallow bowl.

While the fire is coming to temperature, remove the tuna from the marinade, shaking off any excess. Pat dry with paper towels. One at a time, coat the pieces with the wasabi pea rub and transfer to a clean plate.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Lay the tuna pieces across the grate and grill for about 1 minute, then flip the pieces. Grill for 1 minute more. Transfer to a platter, and allow to rest for 5 minutes. The interior should be very rare with the center approaching raw. Slice the tuna ¼ inch/6mm thick and arrange on top of the corn cakes and salad.

SWEET ONION CORN CAKES

MAKES 1 CUP/240ML

2 or 3 ears corn

½ cup/100g chopped Vidalia onion

½ cup/60g flour

3 tbsp/15g chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 tbsp/5g chopped chives

¾ tsp kosher salt

½ tsp ground pepper 1 egg

cup/80ml milk

Oil for frying

Build a hot direct fire (see directions). Grill the corn directly over the fire, turning occasionally, until about one-quarter of the kernels are charred, 3 to 5 minutes. Cool slightly, then scrape the kernels from cobs.

In a large bowl, stir together the corn, onion, flour, parsley, chives, salt and pepper. Beat the egg and milk together, and add to the bowl. Stir until evenly mixed to form a loose, chunky batter.

Set a cast-iron pan on the grill and fill it about ½ inch/13mm deep with oil. When the oil is hot (a teaspoon of batter will crackle when added), drop large spoonfuls of batter into the oil, working in batches to avoid crowding the pan. You should use about ¼ cup/60ml for each cake.

Flip the cakes when golden brown, after about 3 minutes. Cook another 3 minutes. Be careful not to let them get too dark, or they will become chewy and tough.

Remove the cakes from the oil and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately.

WASABI AVOCADO SALAD

MAKES 6 APPETIZER SERVINGS

¼ cup/60ml fresh lime juice

2 scallions, chopped

3 tbsp/45ml soy sauce

2 tbsp/30ml canola oil

2 tsp/8g sugar

2 tsp/6g wasabi powder mixed with 2 tsp/10ml water

2 tsp/6g freshly grated ginger

½ avocado, pitted and thinly sliced

½ small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced

In a small jar, combine the lime juice, scallions, soy sauce, oil, sugar, wasabi paste and ginger. Shake to mix.

In a large bowl, toss the avocado and onion with the dressing. Top each corn cake with some salad, then place the sliced tuna on top.

SWEET, SPICY, SMOKY GRILLED SHRIMP COCKTAIL WITH CHIPOTLE SAUCE

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS

PROFESSIONAL CHEFS KNOW THE FIRM FEELING OF A COOKED SHRIMP, WHICH IS SOMETHING THAT’S VALUABLE AND RELATIVELY EASY TO LEARN. GET TO KNOW THE FEEL OF RAW SHRIMP FIRST BY PUSHING DOWN ON THE THICKEST PART. THEN GRILL IT FOR A FEW MINUTES AND AFTER YOU HAVE FLIPPED IT, FEEL IT IN THE SAME PLACE. LET IT COOK FOR 2 TO 3 MINUTES MORE, THEN FEEL IT AGAIN. WHEN IT’S DONE IT SHOULD HAVE A SLIGHT SPRING TO IT BUT NOT BE SUPER FIRM. TO DOUBLE-CHECK YOUR WORK, CUT OFF A SMALL PIECE AT THE END AND LOOK AT THE INSIDE. IT SHOULD BE WHITE ALL THE WAY THROUGH AND STILL MOIST. YOU CAN ALSO CHECK THE TEMPERATURE. THE SHRIMP SHOULD BE ABOUT 140°F/60°C.

THE BRINE HERE IS PERFECT FOR SHRIMP—AND MOST SEAFOOD, FOR THAT MATTER. WE USE IT TO HELP CREATE FLAVOR AND KEEP THE SEAFOOD FROM DRYING OUT ON THE GRILL.

2 cups/475ml water

¼ cup/60g kosher salt

2 tbsp/25g sugar

12 U-8 (under 8 per lb) raw shrimp, peeled and deveined

½ cup/120ml ketchup

1 tbsp/15ml prepared horseradish

1 tbsp/15ml fresh lemon juice

1 tbsp/15ml minced chipotles in adobo sauce

2 tsp/10ml Memphis-Style Dry Rub or your favorite dry rub

Make the brine: In a small saucepan, bring the water, salt and sugar to a simmer, stirring to dissolve. Pour the brine into a large bowl and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 2 hours.

Add the shrimp to the brine and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

While the shrimp are brining, make the cocktail sauce. In a small bowl, mix the ketchup, horseradish, lemon juice and chipotles in adobo sauce. Cover and set aside. If you won’t be using the sauce right away, refrigerate until ready to use.

Rinse the shrimp under cold water and dry very well with paper towels. Lightly sprinkle with the dry rub.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Grill the shrimp for 3 minutes. Flip and grill for an additional 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a sheet pan and place in the freezer for 10 minutes, or until cool. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Serve the shrimp on a bed of crushed ice with the cocktail sauce on the side.

GRILL-ROASTED GINGER CLAMS WITH SAKE AND SCALLIONS

MAKES 4 APPETIZER OR 2 ENTRÉE SERVINGS

WE SHOT A LOT OF THE PHOTOS FOR OUR BURGER BOOK ON CAPE COD IN THE SUMMER, AND CHRIS BROUGHT HIS FAMILY ALONG FOR THE FUN. AS A REWARD FOR A HARD DAY OF EATING BURGERS, HE TOOK HIS KIDS CLAMMING IN WELLFLEET WITH THE WONDERFUL WOODBURY FAMILY, KNOWN FOR “PAT’S CLAMS” (YES, YOU CAN ORDER THEM ONLINE). THEIR HAUL INSPIRED THIS DISH.

HERE WE USE THE GRILL AS A STOVE. WHEN THE WEATHER IS NICE, WE LIKE TO BE OUTSIDE AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE, AND THIS IS A GREAT APPETIZER TO MAKE QUICKLY ON THE GRILL WHILE YOU ARE PREPARING FOR THE MAIN FEAST. YOU CAN MAKE THIS ON AN INDOOR STOVE, TOO, IF YOU MUST.

1 cup/240ml sake (dry white wine will work in a pinch)

1 tbsp/15ml chili garlic paste, sambal, or Sriracha

1 tbsp/15ml soy sauce

1 tbsp/15ml olive oil

1 tbsp/15ml sesame oil

16 littleneck clams, washed well to remove all sand

2 tbsp/10g minced fresh ginger

1 tbsp/5g minced garlic

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

¼ cup/20g cilantro leaves

2 scallions, cut into ¼"/6mm-thick rings

1 lime, quartered

Equipment: 12"/30cm cast-iron pan

Build a hot direct fire. Spread an even layer of unlit charcoal in the bottom of the grill. Fill a chimney with charcoal. Stuff two sheets of newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and light it. When the coals are fully engaged—you should see flames peeking over the top—pour them over the unlit charcoal. If you are using a gas grill, light the gas and adjust the temperature on both sides to high.

In a small bowl, combine the sake, chili paste and soy sauce, and set aside.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. In a cast-iron pan, heat the oils on the grill. When the oil is hot (it will ripple and move quickly around the pan when tilted), add the clams and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and continue to cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until the ginger and garlic start to brown.

Add the sake mixture and cover the pan with a lid or baking sheet. Allow the clams to steam for 6 to 8 minutes, giving the pan a shake every minute or so, keeping the lid on. After 6 minutes, take a peek. If the clams are not open, continue cooking.

Once the clams are all open (there may be a few that never do; discard those), season with the pepper and sprinkle with the cilantro and scallions. Squeeze the lime wedges over the pan and bring it to your friends away from the grill so you can focus on the next course.

STICKY RICE

SOY SAKE SAUCE

MINT PISTOU

COCONUT AND PAPAYA SALAD

ISLAND BARBECUE SAUCE

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