S Wilcox Pass: If you do one hike along the Icefields Parkway, make it this moderate climb that rewards you with impressive views of the surrounding glaciers (click here).
S Columbia Icefield: At the largest area of glacial ice in the Canadian Rockies, you can walk on a section of the Athabasca Glacier (click here).
S Athabasca Falls: Backed by mountain peaks, this powerful waterfall along the Icefields Parkway is an appealing photo opportunity (click here).
S Maligne Canyon: Hike on the trails and over the bridges through this deep limestone gorge that shows off how mountain rivers can carve through rocks (click here).
S Maligne Lake: Explore the turquoise waters of the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies and cruise to scenic Spirit Island (click here).
S Miette Hot Springs: Soak in Jasper’s natural mineral-rich hot springs, the warmest in the Canadian Rockies (click here).
S Jasper Sky Tram: Ride this gondola for great views of the national park and the town of Jasper, then hike to the top of Whistlers Mountain for even better vistas (click here).
S Valley of the Five Lakes Trail: This moderate hike takes you along five bodies of water, shimmering with different photogenic shades of blue, turquoise, and green (click here).
Jasper National Park offers glacial peaks, turquoise lakes, cascading waterfalls, and dramatic canyons that you can explore on trails, by boat, or simply from the highway.
Many people arrive in Jasper via the scenic Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93), which runs between Lake Louise and Jasper. Along the way, you’ll travel through the Columbia Icefield, the largest area of glacial ice in the Canadian Rockies, where you can walk on a section of the Athabasca Glacier, get a thrill on the Glacier Skywalk (a glass-floored bridge that arcs over a canyon), or hike up to a dramatic viewpoint looking across to the ice-topped mountains.
As the largest park in the Canadian Rockies, Jasper National Park has plenty to see, but even in the peak of summer, it doesn’t normally have the crowds that clog the sidewalks in Banff. Oh, plenty of people come to Jasper; the park averages more than two million visitors every year. Yet, with more than 4,335 square miles (11,228 sq km) of protected land, Jasper has much more space.
The compact town of Jasper is located entirely within the boundaries of the national park. Most accommodations, restaurants, and other services are in or around town, although many park attractions are an hour’s drive or more from the town site.
So take time to explore. It takes a little more effort to discover Jasper’s attractions, but this incredible region is totally worth it.
From Banff, go north on Highway 1 to Lake Louise, where you take the scenic Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93) to Jasper. The Icefields Parkway runs 143 miles (230 km) from Lake Louise to Jasper, which takes 3.25-3.75 hours.
The total trip from Banff to Jasper is 180 miles (290 km) and takes 4-4.5 hours.
The shortest route from Vancouver directly to Jasper is via Highway 5 (Yellowhead Hwy.).
Leave Vancouver, heading east on the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy. 1) to Hope. Continue east at Hope onto Highway 3, then exit onto Highway 5 north toward Kamloops. At Kamloops, continue north on Highway 5 until it intersects with Highway 16 north of Valemount. Follow Highway 16 east to Jasper. This route takes you past Wells Gray Provincial Park, known for its three dozen waterfalls, and Mount Robson Provincial Park, where, on a clear day, you can catch a glimpse of the namesake mountain; at 12,900 feet (3,954 m), it’s the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.
This Vancouver-to-Jasper route is 500 miles (805 km) and takes 8.5-9 hours. From Kamloops to Jasper, the trip is 275 miles (445 km) and takes five hours.
A longer but scenic route through the mountains of eastern B.C. is to take Highway 1 east from Kamloops.
From Vancouver, head east on the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy. 1) to Hope. Continue east at Hope onto Highway 3, then exit onto Highway 5 north toward Kamloops. From Kamloops, drive east on Highway 1. You’ll travel through Mount Revelstoke, Glacier, and Yoho National Parks en route to Lake Louise. At Lake Louise, turn north on the Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93) to Jasper.
From Vancouver, this route is about 620 miles (1,000 km) and takes 11.5-12 hours. From Kamloops to Jasper, the trip is 415 miles (670 km) and takes 8.25-8.75 hours.
If you’re traveling to Jasper from Whistler, follow Highway 99 north until it joins Highway 97, and then meets up with the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy. 1). Take Highway 1 east to Kamloops.
From Kamloops, either pick up Highway 5 north to Highway 16 east to Jasper, or continue east on Highway 1 to Lake Louise, and then take the Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93) to Jasper.
The trip from Whistler to Jasper via Highways 5 and 16 is 465 miles (750 km) and takes 9-9.5 hours. The route via Highways 1 and 93 is 600 miles (970 km) and takes 12-12.5 hours.
Edmonton to Jasper is 225 miles (360 km), a straight four-hour drive west on Highway 16.
Edmonton International Airport (YEG, 1000 Airport Rd., 780/890-8900 or 800/268-7134, http://flyeia.com) is the closest major airport to Jasper. You can fly directly to Edmonton from many Canadian and several U.S. cities, and from Amsterdam and Reykjavik.
Car rental companies with offices at the Edmonton airport include Alamo (780/890-7345 or 877/222-9075, www.alamo.ca), Avis (780/890-7596 or 800/879-2847, www.avis.ca), Budget (780/890-4801 or 800/268-8900, www.budget.ca), Enterprise (780/980-2338 or 800/261-7331, www.enterprise.com), Hertz (780/890-4435 or 800/263-0600, www.hertz.ca), and National (780/890-7345 or 800/227-7368, www.nationalcar.ca).
SunDog Tours (780/852-4056 or 888/786-3641, www.sundogtours.com, one-way adults $99, kids $59) runs a shuttle between the Edmonton airport and Jasper. It operates once daily in each direction, offering pickups and drop-offs at several Jasper hotels. The trip takes approximately 5.5 hours.
Both VIA Rail, Canada’s national passenger rail carrier, and the privately run Rocky Mountaineer train have service to the Jasper Train Station (607 Connaught Dr.), which is conveniently located in the center of town opposite Parks Canada’s Jasper Information Centre (500 Connaught Dr.).
Side Trip: Wells Gray Provincial Park
Off Highway 5 between Kamloops and Jasper is a beautiful and comparatively little-known outdoor destination: Wells Gray Provincial Park (250/587-2090, www.env.gov.bc.ca, daily, free). The main access point for Wells Gray Provincial Park is the town of Clearwater on Highway 5, 80 miles (129 km) north of Kamloops and 200 miles (320 km) southwest of Jasper
With a vast wilderness of 1.3 million acres (more than 525,000 ha), part of interior B.C.’s temperate rainforest, the park’s highlights are its 39 waterfalls, several of which you can reach via short walks of 30 minutes or less—a great way to stretch your legs when passing through. Spahats Creek Falls, 8 miles (13 km) from the start of Clearwater Valley Road, the main north-south route through the park that begins at the town of Clearwater, plunges into a deep canyon of volcanic rock. Dawson Falls, 26 miles (42 km) down Clearwater Valley Road, is a wide waterfall, spanning 350 feet (107 m) across. The park’s must-see attraction is Helmcken Falls, 30 miles (48 km) from the start of Clearwater Valley Road. At 460 feet (141 m) high, it’s the fourth-highest cascades in Canada.
Helmcken Falls
You could spend far more time exploring the park, which has 125 miles (200 km) of trails as well as several large lakes. In the park’s Trophy Mountains, the peaks rise to more than 8,200 feet (2,500 m). Wells Gray encompasses 22 volcanoes, too, but don’t worry; the last eruption was thousands of years ago.
For park information and maps, stop into the Wells Grey Park Information Centre (416 Eden Rd., Clearwater, 250/674-3334, www.wellsgraypark.info, 9am-5pm daily). Tourism Wells Gray (www.wellsgray.ca) publishes a useful visitor guide, available on its website and at the information center.
On its flagship route, The Canadian, VIA Rail (514/989-2626 or 888/842-7245, www.viarail.ca) trains arrive in Jasper from the west via Vancouver and Kamloops, and from the east from Edmonton, Saskatoon, Winnipeg, and Toronto. The Canadian operates three times a week in each direction May-mid-October, and twice a week mid-October-April.
Another VIA Rail route runs to Jasper three times a week from Prince Rupert and Prince George in northern British Columbia. The full Jasper-Prince Rupert trip is 720 miles (1,160 km) and takes two days. This train travels only during the daylight hours, so you stop overnight in Prince George. Prince Rupert is a starting point for trips to the islands of Haida Gwaii. From Prince Rupert, you can also travel aboard B.C. Ferries south to Vancouver Island.
The deluxe Rocky Mountaineer (877/460-3200, www.rockymountaineer.com, mid-Apr.-mid-Oct.) can take you to Jasper from Vancouver or Seattle. The classic Journey Through the Clouds runs from Vancouver to Jasper, with an overnight stop in Kamloops; it also offers a version of this trip that starts in Seattle. Another option is the three-day Rainforest to Gold Rush route, which takes you to Jasper from Vancouver with overnight stops in Whistler and in the northern B.C. city of Quesnel.
Unlike a standard train trip, many Rocky Mountaineer packages include activities ranging from gondola rides to helicopter tours, plus accommodations along the way. It’s also possible to book a Rocky Mountaineer holiday that covers rail fare and accommodations only, such as a two-day train trip between Vancouver and Jasper. Rail packages start at $1,579 per person and go up depending on destinations, number of days of travel, and the level of service and accommodations.
Between May and late October, Brewster Airport Express (403/762-6700 or 866/606-6700, www.banffjaspercollection.com) runs a daily bus in each direction between Jasper and Lake Louise (3.75 hours, one-way adults $77, ages 6-15 $38.50), Banff (4.75 hours, one-way adults $87, ages 6-15 $43.50), Calgary International Airport (7.25 hours, one-way adults $128, ages 6-15 $64), and downtown Calgary (8 hours, one-way adults $128, ages 6-15 $64). The bus also stops at the Columbia Icefield Centre.
The 143-mile (230-km) route between Lake Louise and Jasper is one of Canada’s most spectacular drives. Highway 93, known as the Icefields Parkway, takes you past rushing waterfalls, turquoise lakes, and countless glacier-topped peaks. This scenic road helped open the Jasper region to tourism when the highway was completed in 1940.
the Icefields Parkway in Jasper National Park
Most people make the drive in anywhere from four hours to one day, with lots of stops en route. If you want to stay longer, the parkway has a couple of lodgings, several campgrounds, and a network of rustic wilderness hostels.
The southern section of the Icefields Parkway is within the boundaries of Banff National Park, while the northern sector is part of Jasper National Park. You must have a valid national park pass (www.pc.gc.ca, adults $9.80, seniors $8.30, families $19.60) to drive anywhere on the parkway. If you don’t already have a pass or need to purchase a pass for additional days, you can buy it at the Lake Louise Visitor Information Centre (Samson Mall, Lake Louise, 403/522-3833) before driving north or at the Parks Canada Jasper Information Centre (500 Connaught Dr., Jasper, 780/852-6176) if you’re traveling south.
The Icefields Parkway is open year-round, although the road’s limited services don’t operate in winter, and heavy snows, primarily between December and March, can close the road for a day or more. Don’t make this trip in winter, unless you have winter tires and you’re comfortable in winter driving conditions.
At any time of year, be prepared for changeable weather. Since the parkway climbs through the mountains and crosses several mountain passes, the weather can vary significantly as you change elevation.
Note that there’s currently no cell phone service along most of the Icefields Parkway.
These highlights along the Icefields Parkway are listed from south to north, that is, from Lake Louise to Jasper. Parks Canada publishes The Icefields Parkway Driving Guide, available online (www.pc.gc.ca) and at park visitors centers, with more details about stopping points and hiking trails along this scenic route.
At Bow Lake, a scenic stretch-your-legs and take-a-photo spot 23 miles (37 km) north of Lake Louise, the Wapta Icefield rises above the opposite lakeshore.
If you’re ready for a picnic, follow the short road from the parking area (to your left as you face the lake) that leads to a quiet grove of lakeside picnic tables.
Take time to stop at Peyto Lake, 25 miles (40 km) north of Lake Louise, where a paved trail climbs steeply up from the parking lot to a viewpoint overlooking this brilliant-turquoise glacier-fed lake. It’s worth the 10-minute hike for this photogenic panorama.
For a longer hike, continue past the Peyto Lake lookout on the Bow Summit Trail, which follows an old fire road up to another scenic viewpoint. This route is 3.6 miles (5.8 km) round-trip, with an elevation gain of 804 feet (245 m).
Have time for only one hike along the Icefields Parkway? Hike the Wilcox Pass Trail, a 5-mile (8-km) round-trip route that climbs up to a ridge and alpine meadows with spectacular views across the glaciers of the Columbia Icefield. This trail is an intermediate-level hike with an elevation gain of 1,100 feet (335 m).
Even if you don’t hike the entire route, walk up 1.5 miles (2.4 km) to the first viewpoint, where the vistas spread out across glacier-topped peaks.
To reach the trailhead, turn off the Icefields Parkway at the Wilcox Campground, 79 miles (127 km) north of Lake Louise or 67 miles (108 km) south of the town of Jasper.
If you want to explore glaciers, you’ll want to visit the Columbia Icefield, the largest area of glacial ice in the Canadian Rockies. Measuring 77 square miles (200 sq km), the Icefield comprises several individual glaciers: the Saskatchewan, Columbia, Stutfield, Dome, and Athabasca. The Icefield region is unique in North America for being a triple watershed, the only point on the continent where water flows to three oceans: the Pacific, the Atlantic, and the Arctic.
The starting point for exploring the Icefield is the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Centre (Hwy. 93, www.banffjaspercollection.com, daily mid-Apr.-mid-Oct.), 81 miles (130 km) north of Lake Louise and 64 miles (103 km) south of Jasper, which has a small Parks Canada exhibit area and a theater. It’s also the departure point for several Icefield tours. The center has a cafeteria (9am-6pm daily) and the more upscale Altitude Restaurant (7:30am-9:30am, 10:45am-2:45pm, and 6pm-9pm daily).
A tourist mecca, the Icefield Centre gets jammed, particularly on summer afternoons, when waiting times for tours can be lengthy. Get here before 11am if you can.
Resembling a frozen river extending down toward Highway 93, the Athabasca Glacier is visible from the road and from the Icefield Centre. It’s not only the most accessible of the Columbia Icefield glaciers; it’s the most visited glacier in North America.
Currently measuring 2.5 square miles (6 sq km), the Athabasca Glacier has been receding as the region’s climate has warmed. It has lost close to 1 mile (1.6 km) of its length and nearly half its volume during the last century. Some experts think that the glacier may disappear completely in 50 years.
The most popular way to explore the glacier is on the Columbia Icefield Glacier Adventure (866/506-0515, www.banffjaspercollection.com, 3 hours, 10am-5pm daily mid-Apr.-mid Oct., adults $109, ages 6-15 $55); book online 48 hours in advance for a 10 percent discount. On these tours, you drive onto a section of the glacial ice in Ice Explorer buses, fat-tire snowcat coaches. When you get off the bus, you have about 15 minutes to walk directly on the glacier.
The Glacier Adventure tours depart from the Icefield Centre every 15-30 minutes. You board a bus that takes you across the road to a transfer point, where you climb onto the Ice Explorer vehicles. From there, you drive up through a rocky chasm of glacial moraine and into the alpine region above the tree line. As part of the short ride to the ice, the snowcats descend a nail-biting 32 percent grade down toward the glacier.
The Glacier Adventure tours also include a walk on the Glacier Skywalk, a steel bridge arcing 115 feet (35 m) out over the Sunwapta Valley. The most exciting (or terrifying, depending on your perspective) part of the Skywalk is a section with a glass floor, where you can look directly down into the canyon, 918 feet (280 m) below. A self-guided audio tour (included with the tour price) explores interpretive panels with details about the icefield glaciers, geologic changes, and local wildlife and plants. Another interesting section of the exhibit details how the Skywalk was designed and built. If you don’t want to do the full Glacier Adventure tour, sign up for a shorter tour to the Skywalk alone (10am-6pm daily mid-Apr.-mid-Oct., adults $35, ages 6-15 $18).
Without taking the Glacier Adventure tour, it’s possible to walk the 1.1-mile (1.8-km) round-trip Toe of the Athabasca Glacier Trail, which starts across the road from the Icefield Centre and takes you to the glacier’s base. However, since the Athabasca Glacier has more than 2,000 crevasses, Parks Canada staff caution that you shouldn’t wander on your own onto the glacier. The Forefield Trail (2.2 mi/3.5 km round-trip) also begins opposite the Icefield Centre and traverses the glacier’s moraines and left-behind debris.
Four miles (6.4 km) north of the Icefield Centre, 114-foot (35-m) Tangle Falls streams down the rock face in several tiers, making the cascade especially photogenic. In winter, when the falls freeze, experienced ice climbers attempt to scale the frozen flow.
Tangle Falls is on the east side of the parkway, 85 miles (137 km) north of Lake Louise and 60 miles (97 km) south of Jasper.
Another waterfall viewpoint is at Sunwapta Falls, 111 miles (179 km) north of Lake Louise and 34 miles (54 km) south of Jasper. The main (upper) falls are closest to the parking area. You can also walk 0.6 mile (1 km) along the river to Lower Sunwapta Falls.
Thousands of years ago, receding glacial ice left behind U-shaped valleys. When larger valleys were carved more deeply into the rock than smaller valleys, these smaller valleys appeared to hang at a higher elevation where the valleys converged, leaving a path for waterfalls to form and flow. These hanging valleys created Sunwapta Falls and many of the other waterfalls in the Jasper region.
At 955 miles (1,538 km), the Athabasca River is Alberta’s longest. Along the river, near where Highway 93 meets Highway 93A, south of Jasper, a set of waterfalls along the river crash into the canyon below.
Athabasca Falls
totem poles at Sunwapta Falls Resort
Athabasca Glacier
What makes Athabasca Falls worth a stop on your Icefields Parkway tour isn’t its height; it’s only 75 feet (23 m) high. But the strong rushing river causes the falls to cascade dramatically through the canyon. With a row of mountain peaks behind the falls, it’s a photo-worthy spot.
A short paved path leads from the parking area to a viewpoint over the falls. Cross the bridge and walk around to the overlooks on the other side of the river for up-close falls views.
Athabasca Falls are close enough to Jasper, 19 miles (30 km) to the south, that you can visit them either from town or as you’re traveling the Icefields Parkway. The falls are 126 miles (203 km) north of Lake Louise.
Several companies offer day trips along the Icefields Parkway from Banff, Lake Louise, or Jasper.
Brewster Sightseeing (403/760-6934 or 800/760-6934, www.banffjaspercollection.com, May-mid.-Oct.), part of the Pursuit Collection, runs a one-day, one-way Icefields Parkway Discovery Tour. You can start in Calgary (12 hours, adults $292, ages 6-15 $143), Canmore (10.75 hours, adults $246, ages 6-15 $121), Banff (9.75 hours, adults $246, ages 6-15 $121), or Lake Louise (8.25 hours, adults $246, ages 6-15 $121) and travel north to the Columbia Icefields, where your tour ticket includes a buffet lunch, the Columbia Icefield Glacier Adventure, and the Glacier Skywalk. The tour concludes in Jasper. You can also do the tour southbound, starting in Jasper and ending in Lake Louise, Banff, Canmore, or Calgary.
Another Brewster Sightseeing option is the Columbia Icefield Discovery Tour, which provides round-trip transportation to the Columbia Icefield from Banff (10.25 hours, adults $250, ages 6-15 $127), Lake Louise (7.75 hours, adults $250, ages 6-15 $127), Jasper (8 hours, adults $206, ages 6-15 $105), Canmore (12.5 hours, adults $250, ages 6-15 $127), or Calgary (14.5 hours, adults $338, ages 6-15 $171). These tours also include a buffet lunch, the Glacier Adventure, and the Glacier Skywalk, and return to your starting point.
SunDog Tours (780/852-4056 or 888/786-3641, www.sundogtours.com, May-mid-Oct.) runs a Columbia Icefields Tour (5-6 hours, adults $205, ages 6-15 $105) that starts and ends in Jasper. It stops at Athabasca Falls and at the Columbia Icefield Centre, where your tour includes the Glacier Adventure and Glacier Skywalk. You can also do these SunDog tours one-way from Jasper to Lake Louise (9 hours, adults $239, ages 6-15 $120) or from Jasper to Banff (10 hours, adults $245, ages 6-15 $125), or vice versa, starting in Lake Louise or Banff and ending in Jasper.
Alternatively, SunDog runs round-trip tours that start and end in either Lake Louise (9 hours, adults $250, ages 6-15 $127) or Banff (10 hours, adults $250, ages 6-15 $127) and travel to the Columbia Icefield. These tours include the Glacier Adventure and Glacier Skywalk, as well as a box lunch.
Services are limited along the Icefields Parkway, so consider packing a picnic or at least bringing water and snacks.
Off Highway 93 at Saskatchewan Crossing, 50 miles (80 km) north of Lake Louise, The Crossing Resort (403/761-7000, www.thecrossingresort.com, mid-Apr.-mid-Oct.) has several food outlets, including The Crossing Café, a cafeteria serving lunch and snacks; Mt. Wilson Restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner; and The Parkway Pub, a sports bar offering lunch, dinner, and drinks (if you’re not the designated driver).
At the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Centre (Hwy. 93, www.banffjaspercollection.com, daily mid-Apr.-mid-Oct.), you can have breakfast, lunch, or snacks in the cafeteria (9am-6pm); if the burgers, sandwiches, and other plates aren’t special, the views across the road to the Athabasca Glacier are. Also in the Icefield Centre is the more upscale Altitude Restaurant (7:30am-9:30am, 10:45am-2:45pm, and 6pm-9pm daily).
Sunwapta Falls Resort (Hwy. 93, 780/852-4852 or 888/828-5777, www.sunwapta.com, mid-May-mid-Oct.), 111 miles (179 km) north of Lake Louise and 34 miles (54 km) south of Jasper, has a deli (7:30am-6pm daily, breakfast $7-13, lunch $10-17), serving eggs, french toast, and oatmeal in the morning, and soups, stews, and burgers midday, as well as premade sandwiches, muffins, yogurt, and fruit to go. In the evening, the window-lined white-tablecloth Endless Chain Ridge Dining Room ($26-40) is worth a stop for its candlelit setting and hearty mountain dishes: pan-seared wild sockeye salmon, game meat pot pie, and Alberta beef steaks. Reservations are recommended.
Many people travel the Icefields Parkway as a day trip from Banff, Lake Louise, or Jasper, but it’s possible to stay overnight along the way.
Located on the 3rd floor of the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Centre, the S Glacier View Lodge (888/770-6914, www.banffjaspercollection.com, June-mid-Oct., from $335 pp) has 32 large rooms, many with views across to the Athabasca Glacier. Stays here are available only as part of a package and include an evening tour on the Athabasca Glacier, complete with appetizers and cocktails, and a private guided excursion on the Glacier Skywalk, as well as dinner and breakfast. Book several months in advance for stays in July and August.
Hostelling International-Canada (778/328-2220 or 866/762-4122, www.hihostels.ca) runs several rustic wilderness hostels along Highway 93 between Lake Louise and Jasper. “Rustic” means no indoor plumbing, showers, electricity, or Wi-Fi, but you’ll get a bunk in a cabin in the woods. From south to north:
• HI-Mosquito Creek Wilderness Hostel (May-mid-Oct. and mid-Nov.-mid-Apr., $32-37 dorm, $78-87 d) has both dorms and private rooms. It’s located 18 miles (29 km) north of Lake Louise.
• HI-Rampart Creek Wilderness Hostel (May-mid-Oct. and mid-Nov.-early Apr., $32-37 dorm), 56 miles (90 km) north of Lake Louise and 88 miles (142 km) south of the town of Jasper, has dorm rooms only.
• HI-Hilda Creek Wilderness Hostel ($33-37 dorm) has just six dorm beds and no staff. It’s 4.5 miles (7 km) south of the Icefield Centre, 75 miles (121 km) north of Lake Louise.
• HI-Beauty Creek Wilderness Hostel ($33-37 dorm) is open year-round but staffed only mid-May-mid-October. The hostel is 11 miles (18 km) north of the Icefield Centre, 55 miles (89 km) south of Jasper.
• HI-Athabasca Falls Wilderness Hostel ($32-37 dorm, $78-87 d) has both dorm beds and private rooms in five rustic cabins. It’s 20 miles (32 km) south of Jasper.
Parks Canada operates a number of primitive campgrounds along the Icefields Parkway. Most have outhouses and no water or electricity, and none accept reservations. Mosquito Creek, Silverhorn Creek, Waterfowl Lakes, and Rampart Creek are in Banff National Park; Wilcox, Columbia Icefield, Jonas Creek, Honeymoon Lake, and Kerkeslin are within Jasper National Park’s boundaries.
From south to north:
• Mosquito Creek Campground (June-mid-Oct., $17.60) is 15 miles (24 km) north of Lake Louise, with 32 unserviced sites for tents or RVs.
• Silverhorn Creek Campground (mid-July-early Sept., $15.70), with 45 sites, is 32 miles (52 km) north of Lake Louise. Silverhorn Creek has no running water; the nearest water is 3 miles (5 km) north at Waterfowl Lakes Campground.
• Waterfowl Lakes Campground (late June-early Sept., $21.50) has a washroom with flush toilets and hot and cold water (but no showers) for its 116 sites. This campground is 35 miles (56 km) north of Lake Louise.
• Rampart Creek Campground (June-mid-Oct., $17.60) has 50 sites, 55 miles (88 km) north of Lake Louise.
• Wilcox Campground (late May-mid-Sept., $15.70) has 46 sites that Parks Canada recommends for small motorhomes or trailers. It’s just south of the Icefield Centre, near the trailhead for the Wilcox Pass Trail; it’s 67 miles (108 km) south of the town of Jasper.
• Columbia Icefield Campground (mid-May-mid-Oct., $15.70) is the place to camp if you want to be close to the Athabasca Glacier. The 33 tent-only sites are convenient to the Icefield Centre, 66 miles (106 km) south of Jasper.
• Jonas Creek Campground (mid-May-early Sept., $15.70), 48 miles (77 km) south of Jasper, is a quiet area with 25 sites for tents or small RVs.
• Honeymoon Lake Campground (mid-May-early Sept., $15.70), 33 miles (53 km) south of Jasper, is a lakeside area not far from Sunwapta Falls. Its 35 sites accommodate tents and small motorhomes.
• Kerkeslin Campground (mid-June-early Sept., $15.70) has 42 sites for tents or small RVs, 22 miles (35 km) south of Jasper.
Parks Canada (780/852-6288, www.pc.gc.ca, 10:15am-5pm daily early May-Sept.) has a seasonal information desk in the Icefield Centre.
Check your fuel before you set out. Gas is available only at Lake Louise, Saskatchewan Crossing (50 mi/80 km, north of Lake Louise), and Jasper.
There is currently no cell phone service for most of the length of the Icefields Parkway, between Lake Louise and the Athabasca Falls area, 20 miles (32 km) south of Jasper.
Jasper National Park is the largest park in the Canadian Rockies, stretching across 4,335 square miles (11,228 sq km) in western Alberta. Initially created as a forest reserve in 1907, Jasper became a full-fledged national park in 1930.
Coming from Lake Louise, Banff, or points south, you enter Jasper National Park along Highway 93, the Icefields Parkway.
Highway 16, the Yellowhead Highway, runs through the park. The park’s west gate is on Highway 16 near the Continental Divide, at the B.C.-Alberta provincial border. The east gate is 19 miles (30 km) southwest of the town of Hinton, also along Highway 16.
A day pass (adults $9.80, seniors $8.30, families $19.60) for Jasper National Park is valid until 4pm on the day after you purchase it. Jasper day passes are also valid at Banff National Park. You need a park pass to travel the Icefields Parkway.
Purchasing a Parks Canada annual discovery pass (adults $67.70, seniors $57.90, families $136.40), valid for a year, is a good deal if you’re spending at least a week in one or more parks. It’s good at more than 100 national parks and national historic sites across Canada. Buy an annual pass online from Parks Canada or at any of the parks’ visitors centers.
For both day and annual passes, the family passes cover up to seven people in a single vehicle, whether or not they’re actually related.
Parks Canada runs the Jasper Information Centre (500 Connaught Dr., 780/852-6176, www.pc.gc.ca, 9am-7pm daily mid-May-mid-June, 8am-8pm daily mid-June-late Sept., 9am-7pm daily late Sept.-mid-Oct., 9am-5pm daily mid-Oct.-mid-May) in the town of Jasper, one block from the train station. The Friends of Jasper National Park (780/852-4767, www.friendsofjasper.com) operate a shop that sells books and souvenirs in the same location.
The Information Centre’s rustic stone building is itself a National Historic Site. British Colonel Maynard Rogers, the park’s first superintendent, built the stone structure as his home in 1913, using rocks excavated from the building site and from the nearby river. It was the first major building to be constructed at the Jasper town site after the government designated the surrounding region as Jasper Forest Park, a 5,000-square-mile (13,000-sq-km) protected area.
You can normally make campsite reservations (877/737-3783, www.reservation.parkscanada.gc.ca) online or by phone for four of the campgrounds in Jasper National Park: Whistlers, Wapiti, Wabasso, and Pocahontas. Reservations are advised especially for July and August stays.
According to local legend, a 19th-century Belgian explorer tried to cross a river in the Jasper area. When the rough waters swept away all his belongings, he dubbed the river maligne (ma-LEEN), French for “evil” or “wicked.” The name stuck to the river, the canyon, and the nearby lake that still bear the moniker. Fortunately, there’s nothing especially wicked about scenic Maligne Canyon, a deep limestone gorge that showcases nature’s carving power.
Several bridges cross the canyon, from First Bridge near the main canyon parking lot to Sixth Bridge, which is off Maligne Road to the west.
The Maligne Canyon Trail takes you through the gorge, past rushing springs and striking rock formations. An especially nice way to explore the canyon is to follow the trail from Fifth Bridge; from there, it’s 1.4 miles (2.2 km) to First Bridge at the top of the canyon. The trail gains 325 feet (100 m) in elevation en route, with the steepest sections around the Second and Third Bridges. For a slightly longer hike, start at Sixth Bridge, which adds 1 mile (1.6 km) of gentle forest trail each way.
You can hike through the canyon in either direction, but the views are most dramatic when you go into the canyon from the Sixth or Fifth Bridges toward the First.
Near First Bridge is Maligne Canyon Restaurant (780/852-3583, www.banffjaspercollection.com, 9am-4pm daily early May-late May, 8am-4pm daily late May-late June, 8am-7pm daily late-June-early Sept., 8am-4pm daily early Sept.-late Sept., 9am-4pm daily late Sept.-mid-Oct.), with a coffee bar, cafeteria, art gallery, and gift shop.
To get to the canyon, follow Highway 16 east from the town of Jasper to Maligne Road. It’s about a 15-minute drive from town. Watch for the turn-offs for Sixth Bridge and Fifth Bridge, both clearly marked, if you plan to start your hike from these points; both have small parking areas at the trailheads.
One of Jasper’s loveliest lakes is glacier-fed Maligne Lake, where mountains and glaciers surround the turquoise waters. At 13.6 miles (22 km) long, it’s the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies.
Maligne Lake
Take a 90-minute narrated cruise along the lake with Maligne Lake Tours (780/852-3370 or 866/360-8839, www.banffjaspercollection.com, 9:30am-3pm daily late May-early June, 9:30am-4pm daily June, 9:30am-6pm daily July-early Sept., 9:30am-4pm daily Sept.-early Oct., adults $79, ages 6-15 $40), which brings you 9.5 miles (15 km) across the water to one of the park’s most photographed spots: tiny forested Spirit Island, framed by the lake and mountain peaks. Although Spirit Island is actually a peninsula (except when the lake waters are particularly high), you can’t walk onto the island itself; it’s a protected area. See the website for detailed cruise schedules. Book online 48 hours in advance for a 10 percent discount.
Another way to explore Maligne Lake is to rent a canoe ($60 per hour) or kayak (single $60 per hour, double $75 per hour) from the Maligne Lake Boathouse (9am-4pm daily June-mid-Sept.), a historic wooden structure built in 1928. Note that you can’t get all the way to Spirit Island in these craft unless you camp along the lakeshore overnight.
The cafeteria-style Day Lodge at Maligne Lake serves soups, sandwiches, and hot meals. For something a little more lavish, book a buffet luncheon at Maligne Lake Chalet (11:15am-2pm daily June-mid-Sept., adults $49, ages 6-15 $34), a 1927 log structure.
Several hiking trails start near the Day Lodge at Maligne Lake.
To hike along Maligne’s lakeshore, follow the Mary Schaffer Loop trail, which leads to a lakeside overlook. You can turn back here, or continue into the forest before circling around to the starting point; the entire loop is 2 miles (3.2 km). The trail gets its name from a Quaker woman from Philadelphia who explored and wrote about the lake in 1907.
Leading through the woods, the 1.7-mile (2.7-km) Moose Lake Loop takes you through the site of a centuries-old landslide.
One of the steepest trails in the Maligne area, the Opal Hills Loop, a 5-mile (8-km) loop with an elevation gain of 1,510 feet (460 m), has great mountain vistas. Check with Parks Canada staff at the Jasper Information Centre before hiking here in July and early August, when bears often frequent the area.
Another steep route, the 6.5-mile (10.4-km) round-trip Bald Hills Trail rewards hikers with views of the lake and surrounding peaks. It has an elevation gain of 1,640 feet (500 m).
Maligne Lake is 29 miles (47 km) east of town, about an hour’s drive. From Highway 16, go east on Maligne Lake Road. Make sure you have enough fuel to get to the lake and back; there are no services en route.
To get to Maligne Lake without a car, book the Explore Jasper Tour (780/852-3370 or 866/360-8839, www.banffjaspercollection.com, late May-early Oct., 4 hours, adults $66, ages 6-15 $33), which provides bus transportation every morning from several stops in Jasper, returning to Jasper later in the day. You can also book this tour including transportation and the Maligne Lake cruise (6 hours, adults $133, ages 6-15 $66).
Maligne Adventures (780/852-3370 or 866/625-4463, www.maligneadventures.com) also provides service between town and Maligne Lake via its Maligne Valley Hiker’s Shuttle (late May-early Oct., one-way adults $35, ages 5-15 $17.50); reservations are required.
En route to Maligne Lake, you’ll pass Medicine Lake (Maligne Lake Rd.), an unusual “disappearing” lake.
Medicine Lake
The Maligne River feeds Medicine Lake, and in summer, waters from nearby melting glaciers cause the lake to fill. In fall and winter, when the snowmelt stops, the lake begins to disappear, draining out through sinkholes at the lake bottom. The water then flows through an underground cave system, before surfacing 10 miles (16 km) downstream in Maligne Canyon. The Maligne River is considered among the largest “sinking rivers” in the western hemisphere.
In 2015, triggered by a lightning strike, the Excelsior Wildfire decimated more than 2,300 acres (966 ha) of forest along Medicine Lake. You’ll see the charred remains of this severe fire along the lakeshore.
Underground streams fuel hot springs throughout the Canadian Rockies, but the hottest of these mineral-rich waters flows into Jasper’s Miette Hot Springs (Miette Rd., 780/866-3939, www.hotsprings.ca, 9am-11pm daily mid-June-early Sept., 10:30am-9pm daily May-mid-June and early Sept.-mid-Oct., adults $7.05, seniors $6.15, ages 3-17 $5.15, families $20.35). Its source is a steamy 129°F (54°C), though the waters are cooled to around 104°F (40°C) before they reach the large public soaking pools. The minerals concentrated in the Miette springs include sulfate, calcium, bicarbonate, magnesium, and sodium.
You can rent towels ($1.90) and swimsuits ($1.90), including early 20th-century bathing costumes (fun for those holiday photos!). Admission rates include a token for the lockers. You can’t wear street shoes into the pool area, so bring water sandals or flip-flops if you’d rather not walk barefoot.
Before or after your soak in the pool, you can hike the Source of the Springs Trail, a moderate 1.9-mile (3-km) loop from the pool area, to see where the sulfurous waters come from. Along the way, you pass the ruins of the original pool building, built in the 1930s.
The hot springs is an hour’s drive from the town of Jasper. Take Highway 16 east for 27 miles (43 km) and turn right (south) onto Miette Road. From the Highway 16/Miette Road junction, it’s 11 miles (18 km) to the springs.
Edith Cavell was a British nurse who worked in German-occupied Belgium during World War I. In 1915, a German firing squad executed Cavell after she was caught helping Allied soldiers escape across the border from Belgium to the Netherlands. Jasper’s 11,046-foot (3,367-m) Mount Edith Cavell bears her name.
You can drive up toward the mountain’s north face on the snaking 8.7-mile (14-km) Cavell Road, which is located off Highway 93A south of town.
At the top of the road, follow the Path of the Glacier Trail, a short 1-mile (1.6-km) walk to a lookout opposite the Angel Glacier, which perches on the mountain above Cavell Pond. Expect snow on the surrounding mountains (and sometimes on the trail) at any time of year.
You can make reservations (877/737-3783, www.reservation.parkscanada.gc.ca) online or by phone for four Jasper National Park campgrounds: Whistlers, Wapiti, Wabasso, and Pocahontas. Reservations are advised, particularly in July and August. You can make reservations starting in January for the upcoming year.
• Whistlers Campground (Hwy. 93, 2.2 mi/3.5 km south of Jasper, May-mid-Oct.) is Jasper’s largest. However, this campground is closed for reconstruction at least through 2019. Check the Parks Canada website for updates.
• Wapiti Campground (Hwy. 93, 3.5 mi/5.6 km south of Jasper, $27.40 tent sites, $32.30 electrical sites) accommodates both tents and RVs and has washrooms with hot showers. It has 362 sites available May-mid-October; 75 sites are open for winter camping (mid-Oct.-Apr.).
• Wabasso Campground (Hwy. 93A, 10 mi/16 km south of Jasper, mid-May-mid-Sept., $21.50-27.40), located off Highway 93A, which is quieter than the main Highway 93, has 231 sites for tents and small RVs. The washrooms have hot water but no showers.
• Pocahontas Campground (Hwy. 16, mid-May-early Sept., $21.50) is off Highway 16, near the Miette Hot Springs, 28 miles (45 km) east of the town of Jasper. Its 140 sites accommodate tents and small RVs. There is running water and flush toilets but no showers or electricity.
• Snaring River Campground (Hwy. 16, mid-May-mid-Sept., $15.70) is also off Highway 16, but it’s closer to town, 8 miles (13 km) to the east. It has 63 sites, some along the river, for tents and small RVs; some tent sites are in a more private, walk-in-only area. It’s a rustic campground without showers, electricity, or flush toilets—just outhouses.
Set along the Athabasca River entirely within the national park, the compact town of Jasper has a year-round population of about 5,000. In summer, that number can swell to over 20,000 as seasonal workers arrive to cater to the influx of high-season visitors.
A good way to get oriented, while learning something about Jasper’s heritage, is on a 90-minute historical walking tour of the town: Jasper: A Walk in the Past (780/852-4767, www.friendsofjasper.com, 7:30pm daily late May-early Sept., free). Offered by the Friends of Jasper National Park, the tour is complimentary, but advance tickets are required; pick them up from the Friends store in the Jasper Information Centre (500 Connaught Dr.), which is also where the tour departs.
How did Jasper get its name? Who are the Métis and what role did they play in Jasper’s settlement? What’s the story behind Jasper National Park?
If you’re curious about these and other questions about the Jasper area, visit the Jasper-Yellowhead Museum & Archives (400 Bonhomme St., 780/852-3013, www.jaspermuseum.org, 10am-5pm daily June-Sept., 10am-5pm Thurs.-Sun. Oct.-May, adults $7, seniors, students, and over age 5 $6). The well-designed displays and artifacts trace the region’s history from its aboriginal people to the early explorers and traders, the development of the railroad, the establishment of the national park, and the first days of tourism.
For great views, ride the Jasper Sky Tram (Whistlers Rd., 780/852-3093 or 866/850-8726, www.jasperskytram.com, 10am-5pm daily late Mar.-mid-May and early Sept.-Oct., 9am-8pm daily mid-May-late June, 8am-9pm daily late-June-early Sept., adults $47, ages 6-15 $25, families $119), a seven-minute gondola trip that takes you 7,500 feet (2,300 m) above the national park and the town of Jasper. Book your tram ticket online to avoid the lines, especially in midsummer.
Want even better vistas of the surrounding snow-topped mountains? Then hike above the gondola station along the 0.75-mile (1.2-km) dirt and shale path to the summit of Whistlers Mountain, elevation 8,100 feet (2,500 m). On a clear day, you can see Mount Robson; at 12,972 feet (3,954 m), it’s the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. The hike to the summit is a moderate climb that should take 45-60 minutes round-trip, although in spring and fall, parts of the path can be snow-covered.
The Sky Tram is 5 miles (8 km) south of town; take Highway 93 south to Whistlers Road. SunDog Tours (780/852-4056 or 888/786-3641, www.sundogtours.com, adults $55, ages 5-12 $28) runs shuttles to the Sky Tram from town with pickups at several hotels; check the website or call for schedules. Prices include your tram ticket and transportation.
Maligne Adventures (780/852-3370 or 866/625-4463, www.maligneadventures.com) runs several Jasper sightseeing tours, including the Maligne Valley Wildlife & Waterfalls Tour (June-early Oct., 5-6 hours), with stops at Maligne Canyon, Medicine Lake, and Maligne Lake, where you can choose a lake cruise (adults $135, ages 5-15 $74) or a guided hike (adults $74, ages 5-15 $49), and an Evening Wildlife Search (May-early Oct., 3 hours, adults $69, ages 5-15 $49) that takes you to various Jasper locations where you might spot elk, bears, moose, sheep, or deer.
SunDog Tours (780/852-4056 or 888/786-3641, www.sundogtours.com) offers several tours in the Jasper region. The Maligne Valley Sightseeing Tour (June-mid-Oct., 5-6 hours) takes you to Maligne Canyon, Medicine Lake, and Maligne Lake, with options for a lake cruise (adults $129, under age 12 $65) or a guided hike on the Mary Schaffer Loop (adults $69, under age 12 $35). The family-friendly Ultimate Jasper Interpretive Nature Walk (May-Sept., 3 hours, adults $69, ages 6-12 $35) is a guided walk to explore the area’s flora and fauna. SunDog can also take you to and from the Jasper Sky Tram (adults $55, ages 5-12 $28, including tram tickets).
Is riding a motorcycle on your bucket list? Then book a guided ride with Jasper Motorcycle Tours (610 Patricia St., 780/931-6100, www.jaspermotorcycletours.com, Apr.-Oct., adults $125-309), for a unique way to explore highlights of the Jasper region. You’ll ride either on the bike behind your guide or in a sidecar attached to your guide’s bike. Tours range 1-6 hours, taking you around town, out to Maligne Canyon, Maligne Lake, Miette Hot Springs, or all the way to the Columbia Icefield. Before you set out, staff will outfit you in a leather jacket, leather pants, gloves, goggles, and a helmet. Yes, you’re encouraged to take photos.
To get the scoop on the local food scene with a sprinkling of area history and entertaining stories about Jasper residents past and present, book an eating-and-drinking walk with Jasper Food Tours (780/931-3297, www.jasperfoodtours.com). Owner Estelle Blanchette has lived in Jasper for two decades and shares lots of delicious details about the area. On the signature Downtown Foodie Tour (3 hours, $115 pp), you’ll make four stops at local restaurants and pubs, grazing your way through dishes from elk burgers to churros with chocolate dipping sauce. You visit a local brewpub, and at every stop, there’s plenty to drink, so if you don’t have a designated driver, purchase a taxi voucher from your guide to get back to your lodging.
You don’t have to go far from town to find scenic hiking trails. A particularly striking route, the Valley of the Five Lakes Trail is a moderate 2.8-mile (4.5-km) loop that takes you through the woods and past five bodies of water, which are all different photogenic shades of blue, turquoise, and green. The differing lake depths account for the color variations. The trailhead is 5.6 miles (9 km) south of town, off Highway 93.
along the Valley of the Five Lakes Trail
The Jasper Discovery Trail is a 5.2-mile (8.3-km) loop that circles the town. It’s marked with a bear symbol and has informational signs and kiosks along the way.
For a short scenic stroll, visit Pyramid Island, near the north end of Pyramid Lake. A flat 0.3-mile (0.5-km) loop trail takes you around the island, with lake and mountain views. The parking area is 4.5 miles (7 km) from town, along Pyramid Lake Road.
canoeing in Jasper National Park
enjoying views of Pyramid Island
hikers in Jasper
Old Fort Point is a rocky hill that rises above the Athabasca River. From the top, you have panoramic views of the town and the entire Jasper valley. You can climb straight up to the top, starting with 80 wooden steps and continuing on a steep dirt-and-rock path, but the easier route is to follow the Old Fort Point Trail (2.4 mi/3.8 km), which begins as a gentle trail through the woods, then climbs steadily up to the lookout point; the elevation gain is 425 feet (130 m). From the top, you can either circle back the way you came, or go down the front face to the steps. To reach the trailhead, which is 1.25 miles (2 km) from town, follow Highway 93A to the Old Fort Point/Lac Beauvert access road; there’s a parking lot at the base of the trail.
Walks and Talks Jasper (780/852-4994 or 888/242-3343, www.walksntalks.com) meets in town and offers several guided interpretive hikes in the Jasper area, including a hike to Mount Edith Cavell Meadows (adults $90, kids $50) and a Maligne Canyon Guided 5 Bridges Adventure (adults $90, kids $50).
You can go white-water rafting on several rivers in the Jasper area. The gentlest rides are on the Athabasca River, while rafting tours on the Sunwapta (a First Nations word meaning “turbulent water”) and Fraser Rivers are more wet and wild.
Jasper Raft Tours (780/852-2665 or 888/553-5628, www.jasperrafttours.com, mid-May-mid-Oct., adults $69, ages 6-17 $23, under age 6 $10) offers gentle 2.5-hour Athabasca River float tours, suitable for families and novice rafters.
Maligne Adventures (780/852-3370 or 866/625-4463, www.maligneadventures.com, May-Sept.) runs the family-friendly Athabasca Falls Canyon Run (3.5 hours, adults $94, ages 5-14 $47), which starts at the base of Athabasca Falls south of town and mixes Class II rapids with a gentle river float. The Sunwapta River trip (4 hours, $104 pp) has numerous Class III rapids; the water is highest and fastest mid-June-late July. For “big water,” with Class III+ rapids, take the Mighty Fraser River tour (5 hours, $114 pp).
You can go canoeing, kayaking, and even swimming (if you can brave the chilly waters) on scenic Jasper lakes close to town.
Named for the wife of Colonel Maynard Rogers, Jasper National Park’s first superintendent, Lake Annette (Lake Annette Rd.) has a sandy beach and turquoise water. The paved Lake Annette Loop Trail is a 1.5-mile (2.4-km) lakeside walking path. From town, take Highway 16 east to Maligne Road, then take the first right onto Old Lodge Road (toward the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge). Turn left onto Lake Annette Road and follow it to the shore. Locals recommend swimming at Lake Edith (Lake Annette Rd.) in mid- to late summer when the lake level begins to drop and the water warms up slightly. The beach access is beyond Lake Annette on Lake Annette Road. Both lakes are about 4.5 miles (7 km) from the town center.
Ringed by mountains, Pyramid Lake (Pyramid Lake Rd.) is a scenic spot for canoeing or kayaking late spring-fall. Opposite the hotel of the same name, Pyramid Lake Resort Boat Rentals (780/852-4900 or 888/852-7737, www.mpljasper.com) rents out canoes ($40 per hour), kayaks (single $40 per hour, double $45 per hour), and rowboats ($40), as well as mountain bikes ($20 per hour). From town, follow Pyramid Lake Road (off Connaught Dr.) for 4 miles (6.4 km) to the lake.
Jasper Riding Stables (1 Pyramid Lake Rd., 780/852-7433, www.jasperstables.com, daily May-mid-Oct.) offers one-hour (ages 6 and over, $52), two-hour (ages 8 and over, $95), and three-hour (ages 9 and over, $135) trail rides, which take you to viewpoints above the surrounding lakes and mountains.
At 5,570 feet (1,698 m), Marmot Basin Ski Resort (1 Marmot Rd., 780/852-3816 or 866/952-3816, www.skimarmot.com, 9am-4pm daily early Nov.-early May, lift ticket adults $102, seniors, students, and ages 13-17 $82, ages 6-12 $36.50) has the highest base elevation of all Canada’s winter sports resorts, receiving an average of more than 160 inches (400 cm) of snow annually. The mountain’s seven lifts serve 1,720 acres (696 ha) of terrain. The 91 runs are rated 30 percent novice, 30 percent intermediate, 20 percent advanced, and 20 percent expert.
Marmot Basin is 12.5 miles (20 km) south of Jasper, off Highway 93. You need a Jasper park pass to visit the ski area, which is within the national park boundaries. The Jasper-Marmot Shuttle (one-way $7) can take you between in-town hotels and the mountain, running three trips a day in each direction during the ski season.
Jasper is one of the world’s largest dark sky preserves, where illuminated signs and other outdoor lighting are limited to keep the skies clear and the stars visible. The town celebrates its status as a go-to stargazing destination during the annual Dark Sky Festival (www.jasperdarksky.travel, Oct.), with several days of lectures, workshops, storytelling, and star-spotting events.
There’s nothing sinister about Evil Dave’s Grill (622 Patricia St., 780/852-3323, www.evildavesgrill.com, 5pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., 4pm-10pm Sat.-Sun., $20-40), a laid-back downtown eatery, except for the entertaining names of its dishes. Popular plates include Diabolical Tenderloin (Alberta beef paired with mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables) and Malevolent Meatloaf, made with bison and wild boar bacon. The same owners run Tekarra Restaurant (Hwy 93A S., 780/852-4624, www.tekarrarestaurant.ca, 7:30am-10:30am and 5pm-9:30pm daily, $27-55), in an atmospheric heritage cabin above the Athabasca River south of town, known for mains like bison short ribs braised with Saskatoon berries or rainbow trout in a ginger cream sauce.
The Raven Bistro (504 Patricia St., 780/852-5151, www.theravenbistro.com, 11:30am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 11:30am-11pm Fri.-Sat., lunch $16-27, dinner $18-36) takes you from Alberta to the Mediterranean with dishes like feta-stuffed falafel served with pickled cabbage and hummus, Moroccan-inspired kale and chickpea strudel topped with fresh arugula, and “the Three Pharaohs”—beef tenderloin with harissa, chicken with cilantro-mint yogurt, and lamb chevapcici with Israeli couscous. For something more mountain-inspired, order the fondue for two.
Starting with simple homemade pastas and moving on to grilled Alberta rib eye served with braised cipollini onions or a boar chop with smoked pepperonata, S Orso Trattoria (Old Lodge Rd., 780/852-3301, www.orsojasper.com, 7am-10am and 5:30pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., 7am-noon and 5:30pm-10pm Sat.-Sun. summer, breakfast $12-35, dinner $30-59), the classy main dining room at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, with spectacular vistas across Lac Beauvert, channels Italy via the Rockies, using local produce and meats in its modern Italian meals.
For a casual meal and a pint, head for the local brewpub, Jasper Brewing Company (624 Connaught Dr., 780/852-4111, www.jasperbrewingco.ca, 11:30am-1am daily, $15-34), the first brewery to open in a Canadian national park. It makes several beers, including Rockhopper IPA (a hoppy India pale ale) and Jasper the Bear Ale, brewed with honey from B.C.’s Okanagan Valley. The food menu begins with basic burgers but quickly progresses to more inventive salads and sandwiches, like the sweet potato and quinoa patty, plus heartier plates like Alberta beef or elk meatloaf.
Jasper Brewing Company
Tekarra Restaurant
The Raven Bistro’s feta-stuffed falafel
The Downstream (620 Connaught Dr., 780/852-9449, www.downstreamjasper.ca, 5pm-2am daily, $18-34) takes good-value pub fare and amps it up with global flavors. You can nibble on miso-glazed steak bites or house-made falafel, travel the world with Moroccan chicken or sweet potato and goat cheese lasagna, or come back to Canada for cabernet-glazed bison short ribs or a bacon-topped burger. Vegetarians and other tofu-lovers should try the Legendary Samba, a substantial sandwich piled with grilled tofu, peppers, onions, melted mozzarella, and hot sauce overflowing out of its pretzel bun. The Downstream is on the lower level below the Fiddle River Restaurant.
Start your day with a scone or sticky bun and coffee from Jasper’s favorite baked goods purveyor, S Bear’s Paw Bakery (4 Pyramid Rd., 780/852-3233, www.bearspawbakery.com, 6am-6pm daily). A second location, called The Other Paw, also makes sandwiches and salads.
For a sandwich to bring on the trails, find your way to the S Patricia Street Deli (606 Patricia St., 780/852-4814, 10am-5pm daily, sandwiches $10-12), a take-out spot hidden behind the escalator in a mini mall. Choose your meat (roast turkey, black forest ham, smoked beef, roast beef), cheese, and loads of veggies—lettuce, peppers, carrots, beets, pickles, and sprouts—and your sandwich will be made to order. It usually has homemade cookies, too.
A locally popular breakfast joint, Coco’s Café (608-B Patricia St., 780/852-4550, www.cocoscafe.ca, 6am-6pm daily summer, 6am-4pm daily winter, $8-14) is known for its breakfast wrap, with eggs, ham, veggies, cheese, and “secret sauce” rolled into a curried tortilla (really, try them!). From overnight oats to tofu scrambles to sandwiches, you can choose from vegetarian, vegan, or carnivorous options.
You can find local food at the summer Jasper Farmers Market (McCready Centre, 701 Turret St., 780/852-3599, 11am-3pm Wed. late June-mid-Sept.).
For groceries, Jasper’s largest market is Robinsons Foods (218 Connaught Dr., 780/852-3195, www.robinsonfoods.com, 8am-10pm daily summer, 8am-8pm daily winter).
As members of the Jasper Home Accommodation Association (www.stayinjasper.com, $75-190), many Jasper homeowners rent out a room or two to guests. Some offer breakfast, while others rent rooms only. Get a listing of available accommodations on the website or at the Jasper Information Centre (500 Connaught Dr.).
The HI-Jasper Hostel (708 Sleepy Hollow Rd., 778/328-2220 or 866/762-4122, www.hihostels.ca, $44-49 dorm, $150-210 d) replaced Jasper’s aging hostel with this newly constructed accommodation. Walking distance to the town center, this three-story property houses four-bed dorms, plus private rooms—queens, quads, and family rooms—with en suite baths. Expect lots of room to hang out, with a café, lounge, media room, and common kitchen, as well as an outdoor fire pit.
Among the nicest features of the alpine-style Whistler’s Inn (105 Miette Ave., 780/852-3361 or 800/282-9919, www.whistlersinn.com, $175-335) are the two rooftop hot tubs where you can soak as you take in the mountain views. The 64 guest rooms, with cherry-toned furniture, white bedding, and plaid accents, have mini fridges, coffeemakers, and Wi-Fi included. The location opposite the Jasper train station couldn’t be more central. On the inn’s lower level, stop into the Wildlife Museum (7am-10pm daily, $3, families $6, hotel guests free), which was set up in the 1950s and exhibits 100 taxidermy animals native to Alberta’s parks, including cougars, elk, and bears. To experience a different type of wildlife, hang with the locals at the hotel’s Whistle Stop Pub.
Centrally located but quiet, the Park Place Inn (623 Patricia St., 780/852-9770 or 866/852-9770, www.parkplaceinn.com, $159-269) has 12 upscale rooms and two suites, decorated in earth tones with mini fridges and coffeemakers; some have whirlpool tubs or fireplaces. There’s a common microwave that guests can use, and you’re surrounded by the town’s cafés and eateries. Underground parking and Wi-Fi are included.
Want a no-frills place to sleep? Friendly Mount Robson Inn (902 Connaught Dr., 780/852-3327 or 855/552-7737, www.mountrobsoninn.com, $211-449), a two-story motel a few blocks from the center of town, fills the bill. The basic guest rooms have microwaves, fridges, and coffeemakers; the larger units, including the recently updated deluxe rooms with two queens and several suites, can accommodate families. There’s a laundry on-site and a hot tub facing the parking lot. Rates include continental breakfast, parking, and Wi-Fi. Staff are quick to help with tips on things to do.
Less than 15 minutes from town, the S Patricia Lake Bungalows (Pyramid Lake Rd., 780/852-3560 or 888/499-6848, www.patricialakebungalows.com, May-mid.-Oct., $115-410) feel like a world away. On a forested site by the lake, the 52 family-friendly units at this summer camp-style resort (the same family has run it for four generations) include everything from simple motel rooms to log cabins to deluxe suites. The newest units are in The Grove, where the modern one-bedroom cabins have barbecues and kitchens with cherry cabinets. Soak in the outdoor hot tub or rent kayaks, canoes, or rowboats to go exploring; the intrepid can swim in the chilly lake. There’s a playground and games for the kids as well as a guest laundry. Internet access is available in the office; as in many Jasper locations, the included Wi-Fi can be erratic.
S The Crimson (200 Connaught Dr., 780/852-3394 or 888/852-7737, www.mpljasper.com, $228-428) brought urban style to small-town Jasper when the owners converted a 1950s lodge into a three-story boutique motel. In the 99 modern guest rooms, beige coverlets with red accents top the beds; all units have air-conditioning, microwaves, mini fridges, and Keurig coffeemakers, and many have kitchenettes. You can swim in the indoor pool (though it’s in a windowless space) or soak in the hot tub. Rates include Wi-Fi and parking.
Across the road from a trout-filled lake 3.6 miles (5.8 km) from town, Pyramid Lake Resort (Pyramid Lake Rd., 780/852-4900 or 888/852-7737, www.mpljasper.com, $239-449) has 62 rooms, cabins, and chalets that vary from rustic to lodge-modern. All have updated baths as well as gas fireplaces, mini fridges, coffeemakers, teakettles, and flat-screen satellite TVs. There’s Wi-Fi, too, although staff caution that the signal can be intermittent. Other amenities include an outdoor hot tub, a sauna, and a guest laundry. You can rent canoes, kayaks, rowboats, and bikes at the lakeshore.
When Jasper Park Lodge opened in the 1920s overlooking Lac Beauvert, it was reportedly the largest single-story log building in the world. Sadly, a fire destroyed that original structure in the 1950s, but the hotel now on the site is Jasper’s most luxurious lodging. S Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge (Old Lodge Rd., 780/852-3301 or 866/540-4454, www.fairmont.com, $575-1,299, self-parking free, valet parking $25), a 10-minute drive from town, has a range of accommodations, the best with lake views, including upscale hotel rooms, deluxe cabins, a one-bedroom cottage, and an eight-bedroom manor. Join Fairmont’s complimentary frequent-stay program for free Wi-Fi. To explore the lake and surroundings, rent canoes ($50 per hour), kayaks (single $40 per hour, double $50 per hour), or mountain bikes ($30 per hour) at The Boathouse (780/852-3301, 10am-7pm May-Oct.). If you’re not getting enough exercise in the mountains, you can work out in the fitness room or swim in the heated outdoor pool. The 18-hole golf course, opened in 1925, ranks among Canada’s best. The lodge also has the lovely lake-view Reflections Spa, as well as several restaurants and lounges.
Tourism Jasper (780/852-6236, www.jasper.travel) produces an annual Jasper visitor guide, available in print and online, and also provides information about things to do, places to stay, and area events on its website.
In town, get your questions answered at the Parks Canada Jasper Information Centre (500 Connaught Dr., 780/852-6176, www.pc.gc.ca, 9am-7pm daily mid-May-mid-June, 8am-8pm daily mid-June-late Sept., 9am-7pm daily late Sept.-mid-Oct., 9am-5pm daily mid-Oct.-mid-May).
The Seton-Jasper Healthcare Centre (518 Robson St., 780/852-3344, www.albertahealthservices.ca) provides 24-hour emergency medical services.
Local pharmacies include Pharmasave (610 Patricia St., 780/852-5903, www.pharmasavejasper.com, 9am-7pm daily) and RX Drug Mart Jasper (602 Patricia St., 780/852-4441, www.guardian-ida-pharmacies.ca, 9am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-6pm Sun.).
The town of Jasper itself is small, and most accommodations, restaurants, shops, and in-town sights are within walking distance. However, many of the national park’s attractions are spread out across a wide area. You either need to have your own vehicle, or book a tour with a local outfitter.
Jasper has three large free public parking lots on Connaught Drive; one is on the south side of the Jasper train station, while the other two are north of the station. You can park in these lots for up to 72 hours.
Street parking in Jasper is also free. Many town parking spots have a two-hour limit.
Avis (414 Connaught Dr., 780/852-3970, www.avis.ca), Budget (414 Connaught Dr., 780/852-3222, www.budget.ca), and National (607 Connaught Dr., at the Jasper train station, 780/852-1117, www.nationalcar.ca) have car rental offices in Jasper.