Beauty Note! 
This might be a good place to revisit the skin anatomy chapter (page 31) to brush up on the structure and function of our skin
CBD is everywhere, right? We see it listed as an ingredient in everything, including toothpastes, pain creams, face oils, scalp treatments, and even deodorants. So what is it, and why is everyone excited about using it?
CBD, or cannabidiol, is a unique molecule that exists within the Cannabis sativa plant, also known by its common names, hemp and marijuana. CBD is the secondmost-abundant cannabinoid found in the cannabis plant, following THC, or tetrahydrocannabinol. Cannabinoids are compounds found only in hemp and marijuana. What differentiates hemp and marijuana is variation in their cannabinoid composition: “industrial hemp” has less than 0.3 percent THC, and marijuana has more than 0.3 percent THC. Both (usually) have a rich quantity of CBD. Note: THC is psychoactive. CBD is not psychoactive.
Before we launch into details about CBD, let’s step back for a moment and talk about plants and plant medicine. All plants are composed of hundreds of different phytochemical molecules and compounds. And these molecules give plants their identifying characteristics and medicinal and therapeutic properties. For example, the aroma we recognize as mint is actually one particular molecule that is part of the complex phytochemical composition of the peppermint plant. Another example is chamomile. We all have experienced how soothing chamomile tea can be. This soothing action is triggered by specific chemical compounds that are an integral part of the chamomile plant’s flowers and leaves and are drawn out of the plant material by the warm water when we make tea.
The key to the practice of herbal medicine is understanding that all plants are composed of a wide variety of different phytochemicals. Depending on how we extract these different components and then use those extractions, the molecules in the extractions, when ingested or applied topically, can deeply affect our physiology and mental state.
This is all to say that CBD is a phytochemical that offers its very own unique set of therapeutic properties—especially when teamed up with other cannabinoids and plant compounds.
Research has shown that CBD has a powerful effect on our physiology, from reducing pain and inflammation to promoting tissue repair, fortifying our immunity, soothing our nervous system, and supporting our endocrine system.
As researchers have studied why the CBD molecule has such a powerful effect on our physiology, they have learned about the dynamic, complex, and elegant web of neurons and cells that compose our endocannabinoid system (ECS).
What exactly is the endocannabinoid system?
The human body is an astonishing machine that is constantly in motion—navigating our environment, supporting our growth, healing our tissues, protecting us—and all that is ultimately masterminded by our endocannabinoid system. The ECS’s main role is to help maintain balance amid the constant barrage of stressors that bombard us. This amazing network of cells is constantly communicating with our immune system, our endocrine system, and our nervous system to make sure we stay healthy and balanced.
But what happens if the ECS can’t keep everything in sync? The result is that we don’t feel well and we start feeling the symptoms of imbalance, like inflammation, anxiety, and pain.
So imagine if we could apply or ingest something that could help our ECS get back into balance . . .
That something is CBD.
CBD communicates with the cells of our ECS and helps that system find its way back to balance. When our body is cruising in that state of balance, our immune system is better fortified against threats, and we are more likely to be able to fight off sickness and even disease.
How does this relate to the health and appearance of our skin? The ECS is present in every organ of our bodies, including our skin. That means that if we are experiencing symptoms like itching, acne breakouts, or just simple signs of aging, our ECS may not be working as effectively and efficiently as it could. In this chapter, you’ll learn about several CBD-infused recipes for health and wellness that can help restore balance to our ECS.
Beauty Note!
This might be a good place to revisit the skin anatomy chapter (page 31) to brush up on the structure and function of our skin
As you embark on blending your own CBD products, it is important to understand the different types of CBD extractions and methods so you can select CBD oil that meets your therapeutic goals and blending principles. We consulted with our friend and colleague Mia Davis, a clean beauty pioneer and hemp oil expert, on what to look for. Mia says, “Start with hemp that has been grown organically in the united States. Your supplier should have no problem tracing the oil you’re buying right back to the hemp plant it came from—and they should share that information with you. In addition, they should be happy to disclose their extraction methods and the test results of the finished oil that break down the amounts of CBD, THC, and other major cannabinoids, as well as the results of pesticide and heavy metal testing.” She also provides the descriptions in the chart on page 273—thanks, Mia!
CBD EXTRACTION
Type of CBD Extraction |
Description |
Full-Spectrum Extract |
The plant oil is extracted from the whole hemp plant. In this process, CBD is present along with other cannabinoids and therapeutic compounds such as terpenes, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals. Less than 0.3 percent of THC is present. |
Broad-Spectrum Extract |
CBD and other compounds found within the plant are present. THC is completely removed. |
Isolate |
In this process, a chemical compound is isolated and pulled out of the plant. It is pure and solitary. |
Extraction Method |
Description |
Lipid |
This ultra-natural process utilizes the whole plant and a fat (such as coconut oil). This oil is full spectrum and involves no manipulation or processing. The drawback is that the oil is green, smelly, and more likely to go “off.” |
CO2 |
CO2 is pressurized in metal tanks until it becomes a supercritical fluid; then the fluids pull out the desirable compounds from the flower. This is a very clean method, using no solvents. |
Ethanol Extraction |
Raw cannabis is soaked in ethanol; then the cannabis is removed and the liquid and alcohol are filtered from the extracted plant material. Ethanol is generally recognized as a safe ingredient, and none of it is left in the finished oil. |
Hydrocarbon |
Propane or butane is passed through raw cannabis as a solvent to collect cannabinoids and terpenes. Then the solvent with the essential oils is heated up to remove the propane or butane, leaving behind the extract. |
Figuring Out the Potency of Your CBD Extract
Before you experiment with CBD in your plant-powered skincare products, you need to know (1) the extraction method, (2) the quality of the extraction, and (3) the number of milligrams of CBD in the ingredient you purchased.
The amounts of CBD we provide in our recipes are based on specs from Hudson Hemp, where we purchase our distillate. Not all suppliers will have the same ratio of CBD per teaspoon, so be aware that your teaspoon of distillate may not equal the same amount of milligram of CBD as ours. Chances are that your CBD supplier has diluted the extract into an oil, like MCT oil, olive oil, or hempseed oil (remember, CBD isn’t soluble in water). Make sure you ask which oil is used if you aren’t sure.
Beauty Note!
These measurements are approximate. Since oils have different weights, one drop of one oil may be heavier or lighter than another.
Most important, you need to find out how many milligrams of CBD has been dissolved into the oil. For example, let’s say you purchased a 10 ml bottle of CBD from a supplier and they tell you that the bottle contains 250 grams of CBD. That means every milliliter contains 25 grams of CBD.
OIL MEASUREMENTS
Drops |
Teaspoon (tsp) |
Milliliter (ml) |
20 |
.20 |
1 |
40 |
.40 |
2 |
60 |
.60 |
3 |
80 |
.80 |
4 |
100 |
1 |
5 |
|
|
|
3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon |
|
|
2 tablespoons = 1 ounce |
|
|
How Much CBD Is Needed to Be Effective?
The research on this is still not conclusive, and how much we absorb through the skin is entirely dependent on a wide array of factors like pore size, skin temperature, friction, type of product, where the product is applied, and so on. So, whether you use CBD sparingly or slather it on, the effect is generally anecdotal—meaning we recommend that you experiment and observe, take good notes, and see how much you need to feel and see an effect. But from our experience, we suggest starting with at least 150 milligrams or more per ounce of product.
A great way to enhance the effect of CBD on our bodies and minds is by blending it with essential oils. Essential oils are made up of chemical compounds classified as terpenes, and this unique class of chemical components works synergistically with cannabidiol, which is from a different class of chemical compounds called cannabinoids. Even though essential oils and cannabidiol are from different classes of chemical compounds, they resonate well with each other since they mostly make up the volatile and aromatic parts of the plants’ chemistry. This unique relationship between a few key essential oils and CBD is part of what is called the entourage effect.
See the chart on the next page for a few key essential oils that have been shown to enhance the therapeutic effects of CBD.
|
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
SAFETY CONCERNS |
||
|---|---|---|---|---|
BLACK PEPPER /PIPER NIGRUM |
||||
PARTS USED: dried fruit |
steam distillation |
avoid direct application to skin, avoid if pregnant, always dilute |
||
COPAIBA /COPAIFERA OFFICINALIS |
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
PARTS USED: resin |
steam distillation |
none |
||
JUNIPER /SEE ESSENTIAL OIL CHART ON PAGES 58–59. |
|---|
LAVENDER /SEE ESSENTIAL OIL CHART ON PAGES 58–59. |
|---|
LEMON /SEE ESSENTIAL OIL CHART ON PAGES 60–61. |
|---|
The CBD regulatory landscape is constantly evolving. As we write this book, CBD (and other cannabinoids) from industrial hemp is federally legal (recall that the product must contain less than 0.3 percent THC) and CBD (and other cannabinoids) from marijuana must be purchased in a medical marijuana dispensary. When obtaining your ingredients, always ensure you’re using a high-quality source. Also make sure that you’re not overstating what your products can do. That is, do not make “drug claims” regarding your skincare product, which is a cosmetic, not a drug.
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS—EMOTIONAL |
|
|---|---|
warming the body, supporting circulation and movement, dispersing stagnancy, relieving aches and pains, aiding digestion, supporting the immune system, supporting the respiratory system, acting as an antibacterial and antimicrobial agent |
grounding, centering, calming, sedating, strengthening confidence, aiding meditation, healing emotional wounds, reducing anxiety |
relieving aches and pains, reducing inflammation, healing wounds, repairing tissues, supporting the immune system, supporting the respiratory system |
grounding, arousing, stimulating, energizing, de-stressing, supporting inner resolve and confidence |
It is important to source your CBD from growers/sellers you trust. We recommend doing your research and finding the right fit based on the quality and extraction method you are seeking.
To help you get started, here are a few CBD resources we like:
— Garden Om (www.gardenom.com)
— Open Book Extracts (www.openbookextracts.com)
— Hudson Hemp (www.hudsonhemp.com)
— Sun Soil (www.sunsoil.com)
° glass or stainless steel bowl or glass beaker
° double boiler (see instructions on page 198)
° glass or wooden stirrer
° 4 (1-ounce) glass jars with tight-fitting lids
° 2 tablespoons shea butter
° 2 tablespoons cocoa butter
° 2 tablespoons coconut oil
° 1 tablespoon jojoba oil
° 1 tablespoon avocado oil
° 330 mg CBD (about 1 teaspoon CBD distillate in olive oil)
° 70 drops lavender essential oil
° 30 drops clary sage essential oil
° 24 drops carrot seed essential oil
15 MINUTES
4 (1-OUNCE)
JARS
Skin dryness and itchiness usually happen when our skin struggles to retain moisture, and that’s a result of a weakened skin barrier. This means that the naturally occurring oils that “glue” our skin cells together to prevent water from escaping our bodies (transepidermal water loss) and to protect us against pathogens are weak and broken, and as a result our skin feels dry and itchy.
Using a body butter rich with plant-powered ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, jojoba oil, and avocado oil can help feed our skin the components needed to repair the weakened “glue.” By also including CBD in the recipe, we can exponentially boost the healing properties of the other ingredients and power up communication with the endocannabinoid system, ultimately resulting in a more functional skin barrier.
1. In a bowl or beaker, combine the shea butter, cocoa butter, coconut oil, jojoba oil, and avocado oil.
2. Gently place the bowl or beaker with the butter and oil mixture in the upper pot with the inch of water. Reduce the heat to low, and stir while the ingredients are melting. Continue stirring until well combined.
3. Remove the bowl or beaker that contains all the melted butters and carrier oils from the double boiler, and wipe away all the moisture and water from the outside of the bowl or beaker.
4. Add the CBD oil and essential oils to the melted mixture and stir well.
5. Slowly pour the mixture into the glass jars, cap tightly, and place immediately in the refrigerator. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours. The body butter should last for 6 months unrefrigerated. (It’s best not to keep it in the fridge.)
Beauty Note!
Whenever melting shea butter in a beauty recipe, it’s important to always cool it directly in the fridge. This way, the heavier molecules won’t separate out and you can prevent the butter from feeling grainy.
Beauty Tip! 
How to Use:
Apply liberally to dry skin as often as needed.
CBD FACE OIL FOR YOUTHFUL GLOW
° small glass beaker
° glass or wooden stirrer
° 1 (1-ounce) amber glass bottle with a dropper cap
° 1 tablespoon pumpkin seed oil
° 1 tablespoon argan oil
° 1½ teaspoons jojoba oil
° 1¼ teaspoons camellia seed oil
° ½ teaspoon pomegranate seed oil
° ¼ teaspoon rosehip seed oil
° 165 mg CBD (about ½ teaspoon CBD distillate in olive oil)
° 5 drops copaiba essential oil
° 4 drops frankincense essential oil
° 3 drops geranium essential oil
10 MINUTES
1 FLUI D OUNCE
As we age, a lot happens to our skin. We stop producing the oils necessary to support our skin barrier function. Our hormone levels drop, reducing our skin’s ability to produce the proteins needed to synthesize collagen and elastin, which give our skin its shape and stretch. By including CBD in skincare recipes intended for more mature skin, we can help the skin find new balance amid the unavoidable physiological changes of aging and, as a result, produce a more healthy, youthful appearance.
Beauty Tip!
How to Use:
Apply ¼ to ½ teaspoon of the oil to your face after cleansing. Make sure to massage into your entire face and neck.
STEPS
1. In a small glass beaker, gently mix all the carrier oils and the CBD oil until fully incorporated. The color will be light orange or pink with a hint of a light brown hue; this oil will easily absorb, so don’t worry about the color staining your skin.
2. Add the essential oils to the carrier oil mixture and continue stirring for about 30 seconds, until the ingredients are nicely incorporated.
3. Slowly pour the oil into the glass bottle, fasten the cap, and shake well. Your face oil is ready for use and will last for 6 months. Keep in mind that over time the aroma will intensify as the oils blossom into one another.
Beauty Note!
Face oils are a really effective and easy way to include CBD in the delivery of plant-powered components like essential fatty acids and nutrients, which are known to promote tissue repair, even out skin tone, and support resilience.
° small glass or stainless steel bowl or glass beaker
° glass or wooden stirrer
° 1 (1-ounce) non-BPA plastic squeeze bottle or glass bottle with pump
° 2 tablespoons aloe vera
° 1 teaspoon tamanu oil
° 82.5 mg CBD (about ¼ teaspoon CBD distillate in olive oil)
° 10 drops cypress essential oil
° 10 drops palmarosa essential oil
° 8 drops lemon essential oil
5 M INUTES
1 FLUID OUNCE
Acne results when our skin barrier function and our skin microbiome are disrupted and bacteria settle in and cause an infection. Adding CBD to acne spot treatments can significantly speed up the healing process and refortify the skin’s immunity against further infection.
Beauty Note!
Tamanu oil has nutrients that make the oil a green color, and it may turn your gel a shade of light green.
STEPS
1. In a bowl or beaker, combine all the ingredients.
2. Vigorously stir together for about 30 seconds, ensuring all the ingredients are fully incorporated.
3. Transfer the blended product into the bottle and cap tightly. Shake well before using. The gel should last for 1 month. Keep refrigerated.
CBD on its own does not dissolve in water. That’s why you mostly see CBD as an ingredient in oil-based products like butters, balms, salves, creams, and oils. However, there are ways to incorporate it into water-based products, like this acne spot gel that uses aloe vera, a water-based ingredient.
Beauty Note!
How to Use:
Cleanse and tone your skin to create a clean surface. Apply a small drop of the acne spot treatment directly onto the affected area with your clean fingertip. Leave on and let the gel fully absorb into your skin. Repeat twice daily, or as needed.
CBD PAIN RELIEF SALVE FOR INFLAMMATION AND DISCOMFORT
° double boiler
° 2 glass measuring pitchers
° glass or wooden stirrer
° 1 (1-ounce) glass jar or metal tin with a tight-fitting lid
° ¼ ounce organic unrefined beeswax pastilles (about 4 tablespoons)
° 2 tablespoons arnica-infused olive oil
° 2 tablespoons calendula-infused olive oil
° 330 mg CBD (about 1 teaspoon CBD distillate in olive oil)
° 7 drops lavender essential oil
° 5 drops copaiba essential oil
° 4 drops black pepper essential oil
° 4 drops frankincense essential oil
° 4 drops juniper essential oil
2 HOURS AND
15 MINUTES
1 (1-OUNCE)
JAR OF SALVE
Inflammation is often caused by either pain or a reaction to pain. To relieve pain, we also need to reduce inflammation. We experience inflammation when our skin reacts to an external environmental stressor, like a bug bite, an allergen, or a wound. Inflammation can also result from an internal disturbance, like a strained muscle or tendon, muscle spasms, nerve distress, bruising, or injury. With this topical CBD recipe, we can engage the endocannabinoid system, soothing and calming both our internal physiology and our external reactiveness so that both can get back on track.
1. To set up the double boiler, pour about 1 inch of water into the bottom pot and about 1 inch of water into the upper pot. Turn the heat on medium to begin warming up the water in both the lower and upper pots.
2. Once the water begins to steam a bit, add the beeswax pastilles to the first glass measuring pitcher and place it gently in the upper pot with the inch of water. Keep watch as the beeswax pastilles begin to melt.
3. While the beeswax is heating up, add the arnica- and calendula-infused oils to the second glass measuring pitcher, and mix together.
4. Once the beeswax is fully melted and no remnants of the pastilles are visible, slowly pour in the blended infused herbal oils and mix together. The melted beeswax may harden a little when the oils are poured in. If this happens, don’t worry; simply use a glass or wooden stirrer to stir the mixture as it is heating to make sure the beeswax remelts and the oils incorporate completely.
5. Carefully lift the warm measuring pitcher out of the top pot of the double boiler, and dry off the outside with a towel to prevent any drips of water from getting into your glass jar or metal tin.
6. Add the CBD oil and essential oils to the melted salve and mix well.
7. Pour the warm melted salve into the container and cap tightly. Let the salve set, without shaking or mixing, until it hardens and cools. This could take a couple hours. Keep out of heat and away from direct sunlight. The salve should last for 8 to 12 months.
Beauty Note!
How to Use:
Scoop one finger of the salve into the palm of your hand and massage into areas that are feeling inflamed or uncomfortable. Carry the salve with you, and use as often as needed.
CBD BATH SALTS FOR DE-STRESSING AND RELIEVING INFLAMMATION
° glass or stainless steel bowl
° 1 (4-ounce) glass jar with a tight-fitting lid
° 6 tablespoons Dead Sea salt
° 82.5 mg CBD (about ¼ teaspoon CBD distillate in olive oil)
° 8 drops frankincense essential oil
° 8 drops sweet orange essential oil
° 6 drops clary sage essential oil
5 TO 10
MINUTES
1 (4-OUNCE)
JAR OF BATH
SALTS
Aromatic baths have a powerful effect on the body, mind, and spirit, and when we enhance the experience with CBD, our muscle aches and pains, nervous energy, and any joint swelling or inflammation can slowly melt away, offering us tremendous relief.
STEPS
1. Spoon the Dead Sea salt into a glass or stainless steel bowl.
2. Gently add the CBD oil, followed by the essential oils, and blend well.
3. Transfer the bath salts to the glass jar and cap tightly. You can use the bath salts immediately or label the jar and store it for later use (or for a gift!). If properly stored and tightly capped to avoid letting any moisture in, the bath salts can last for up to 6 months.
° glass measuring pitcher
° glass or wooden stirrer
° 1 (0.35-ounce) glass roll-on bottle with a cap
° 2 teaspoons jojoba oil
° 82.5 mg CBD (about ¼ teaspoon CBD distillate in olive oil)
° 9 drops orange essential oil
° 8 drops lavender essential oil
° 5 drops frankincense essential oil
5 MINUTES
1 (0.35-OUNCE)
ROLL-ON
CBD has a powerful balancing effect on our nervous system, and for this reason it is a great ingredient to add to any recipe used to help us feel calmer and ease anxiety. Even applied in small quantities, the CBD molecules can connect with the ECS on our skin to support a balanced state of mind.
Beauty Tip!
How to Use:
Gently roll the oil blend on your temples, the back of your neck, and your scalp. Carry the roll-on with you and use as often as needed when feeling anxious.
STEPS
1. In a glass measuring pitcher, combine all the ingredients, mixing well.
2. Carefully pour the mixture into the narrow opening of the roll-on bottle. Snap the roller ball into place, cap the bottle, and shake. The roll-on should last for 6 to 8 months.
