BUTTERS


WHAT THEY ARE

Butters are the fats extracted from the nuts/kernels/seeds of plants. They feel luxurious, melt on contact, and are deeply hydrating.

HOW THEY ARE USED

Some butters can be used directly on the skin, while others are best when combined with carrier oils. You will notice we use butters in many of our recipes, including our lip balm and shea butter face cream. In general, butters are great as emollients, meaning they are exceptional at softening dry, scaly skin buildup; they support the complex mix of natural fats that help glue our skin cells together and carry necessary nutrients, like vitamins, antioxidants, and fatty acids, into the layers of the epidermis.



Refined, Deodorized, and Bleached: Important Concepts to Understand About Butters

When purchasing raw butters to use as ingredients in your botanical beauty products, you may run across specific terminology used to describe how they are extracted and processed, along with other details that point to their purity and quality. This information is usually found in the product description, shared by the supplier, or provided in the butter’s data profile, as well as on the label.

The most common terminology you will find to describe the purity and quality of a butter is whether it is “unrefined” (or “raw”) or, on the other hand, “RBD” (which stands for refined, bleached, and deodorized). RBD means that after the butter has been extracted, it has been put through additional processes to remove (1) particulate matter and impurities, (2) any residual plant odors, (3) any residual color pigments, and (4) certain chemical constituents that consumers may find undesirable, like the heavy fatty molecules in coconut oil.1

For those of us using butters and vegetable oils for botanical beauty recipes, it’s good practice to understand how these different methods of processing affect the ingredient’s quality:

       Refined: A citric acid solution is used to draw out chemical components of the butter that may cause the butter to spoil quickly; this type of refining may in some instances help stabilize the butter for a longer shelf life.2

                 Another kind of refining process involves pouring the melted butter (or oil) through a sieve to separate out any minute particulates.3

       Deodorized: The volatile aromatic components of the butter are removed through a steam distillation process.4

       Bleached: The color pigments are removed using clays to draw out and absorb pigments and waxes.5

The best practice, however, is to look for minimally processed butters and oils that still have their genuine colors and odors intact, which means many of their health-benefiting properties are still present.


WAXES


WHAT THEY ARE

Waxes come in two varieties: beeswax and plant wax. Beeswax is a natural secretion from the honeybee, which feeds on botanicals, and plant wax is found on certain plant leaves. We primarily use beeswax in our recipes since we find it offers the best consistency, but we are mindful that vegans may opt for a plant variety, such as carnauba or candelilla.



Beauty Tip!

Waxes should always be melted at very low temperatures first, before adding butters or oils. You may discover that adding vegetable oils or butters to melted waxes causes the wax to slightly harden. If this happens, don’t worry. Just continue to stir slowly over low heat until all ingredients are well blended.

Different waxes offer surprisingly different textures: beeswax is softer and stickier in feeling, while candelilla wax is shinier and much harder—meaning you would probably use 50 percent less if you plan to substitute it for beeswax.


HOW THEY ARE USED

Waxes help build thickness and create texture in products. They also support emulsification, allowing two liquids (such as oil and water) that normally can’t be mixed to come together. For example, adding beeswax to a lip balm or lotion bar helps the product hold its shape while providing a harder texture.

BUTTERS AND WAXES

COCOA BUTTER /THEOBROMA CACAO

 

WHERE IT IS SOURCED

METHOD OF EXTRACTION

ALL SKIN TYPES
PARTS USED
:
seeds
COLOR: white to ivory
SHELF LIFE: 3 years
SAFETY CONCERNS: none

West Africa and South America

cold-pressed from the dried and fermented cacoa bean

HOW IT IS PROCESSED

HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES

THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS

by-product of processing cacao beans for chocolate, it is the fat that has separated from the bean; raw cacoa butter has intense aroma of chocolate; RBD the scent of chocolate is greatly diminished

rich in essential fatty acids

antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, nourishing, soothing, hydrating, moisturizing

MANGO BUTTER /MANGIFERA INDICA

 

WHERE IT IS SOURCED

METHOD OF EXTRACTION

ALL SKIN TYPES
PARTS USED
:
kernels
COLOR: cream to ivory
SHELF LIFE: 2–3 years
SAFETY CONCERNS: none

tropical climates around the world

pressed from the dried roasted pit/stone

HOW IT IS PROCESSED

HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES

THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS

First the fruit stone is washed, cleaned, and dried, then it is roasted to remove the hull. The kernels are then removed and chopped or mashed and then put through a hydraulic press.

rich in vitamins A and E, antioxidant

moisturizing, cell regenerative, nourishing, soothing, protects dry and damaged skin, lips, and hair; helps shield against harmful UV rays

SHEA BUTTER /BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII

 

WHERE IT IS SOURCED

METHOD OF EXTRACTION

ALL SKIN TYPES
PARTS USED
:
seeds
COLOR: cream to slightly yellow
SHELF LIFE: 1 year (raw); 2–3 years (RBD)
SAFETY CONCERNS: none

West Africa

cold-pressed from the boiled and mashed nuts

HOW IT IS PROCESSED

HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES

THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS

shea nuts are first sorted and cleaned, then ground, mashed, and boiled so the fats separate

rich in vitamins A and E

moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, helps with dry skin and systemic skin conditions

BEESWAX /CERA ALBA

 

WHERE IT IS SOURCED

METHOD OF EXTRACTION

ALL SKIN TYPES
PARTS USED
:
natural secretion of honeybees
COLOR: light yellow to medium brown
SHELF LIFE: indefinite
SAFETY CONCERNS: none

worldwide

collected from hives and filtered to remove impurities

HOW IT IS PROCESSED

HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES

THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS

melted down and then poured through a filter

rich in vitamin A, antioxidant

antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, wound healing

BUTTERS AND WAXES (CONTINUED)

CANDELILLA WAX /EUPHORBIA CERÍFERA

 

WHERE IT IS SOURCED

METHOD OF EXTRACTION

ALL SKIN TYPES
PARTS USED
:
powder-like waxy substance covering leaves of the plant
COLOR: yellow to tan
SHELF LIFE: 3–4 years
SAFETY CONCERNS: none

northern Mexican desert and southwestern US

leaves and stems are boiled in sulfuric acid

HOW IT IS PROCESSED

HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES

THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS

leaves and stems are first cut and dried and then boiled in sulfuric acid that separates the wax from the plant material

supports skin barrier function

excellent vegan alternative to beeswax, provides gloss and shine, and can give a hard coating (harder than beeswax)

CARNAUBA WAX /COPERNICIA CERIFERA

 

WHERE IT IS SOURCED

METHOD OF EXTRACTION

ALL SKIN TYPES
PARTS USED
:
leaves
COLOR: yellow-brown
SHELF LIFE: 3–4 years
SAFETY CONCERNS: none

Brazil

The leaves of the carnauba palm are dried and then beaten to loosen the wax.

HOW IT IS PROCESSED

HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES

THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS

refining and bleaching may occur; check with your supplier

hypoallergenic, emollient

excellent vegan alternative to beeswax, provides gloss and shine, and can give a hard coating (harder than beeswax)