Deconstructing Beauty Labels
1 Donya Fahmy, “What’s in a Name? Making Sense of Ingredient Decks for Personal Care,” AllNaturalBeauty, 2009, http://www.allnaturalbeauty.com/articles/324-whats-in-a-name-making-sense-of-ingredient-decks-for-personal-care-products-to-safeguard-your-health
2 Star Khechara and Lorraine Dallmeier, “Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation,” Formula Botanica, https://formulabotanica.com/diploma-in-organic-skincare-formulation/
3 Perry Romanowski, “Practical Product Development” (PowerPoint slides from lecture, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, New York City, NY, June 6, 2016), https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1dcdqj2v9n0p23/PPD-2016full-PR.pdf?dl=0
4 Ibid.
5 Jade Shutes and Amy Galper, “Botanical Body Care Certification” (course, School for Aromatic Studies, Chapel Hill, NC, November 2016).
Is Natural the Same as Organic?
1 Merriam-Webster, s.v. “natural,” accessed November 9, 2016, https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/natural
2 “Organic Regulations,” United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, https://www.ams.usda.gov/rules-regulations/organic
How the Skin Works
1 Paul A. Kolarsick, Maria Ann Kolarsick, and Carolyn Goodwin, “Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin,” Journal of the Dermatology Nurses’ Association 3, no. 4 (2011): 203–13, doi:10.1097/JDN.0b013e3182274a98
2 Peter T. Pugliese and Zoe Diana Draelos, Physiology of the Skin, 3rd ed. (Carol Stream, IL: Allured Books, 2011), 1–7.
3 Ruhr-universitaet-Bochum, “Olfactory Receptors in the Skin: Sandalwood Scent Facilitates Wound Healing, Skin Regeneration,” ScienceDaily, July 8, 2014, https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/07/140708092555.htm
4 Jan Kusmirek, Liquid Sunshine: Vegetable Oils for Aromatherapy (Glastonbury, UK: Floramicus, 2002), 73.
Plant Extracts and Whole-Plant Parts
1 Marina Kamenev, “Top Ten Aboriginal Bush Medicines,” Australian Geographic, February 8, 2011, http://www.australiangeographic.com.au/topics/history-culture/2011/02/top-10-aboriginal-bush-medicines
2 Jan Kusmirek, Liquid Sunshine: Vegetable Oils for Aromatherapy (Glastonbury, UK: Floramicus, 2002), 9.
3 Kurt Schnaubelt, The Healing Intelligence of Essential Oils: The Science of Advanced Aromatherapy (Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press, 2011), 14.
Beauty Ingredient Charts: Carrier Oils
1 Jan Kusmirek, Liquid Sunshine: Vegetable Oils for Aromatherapy (Glastonbury, UK: Floramicus, 2002), 9.
Beauty Ingredient Charts: Herbal Infusions
1 “How to Make Macerated Oils,” Formula Botanica, http://formulabotanica.com/how-to-make-macerated-oils/
Beauty Ingredient Charts: Hydrosols
1 Ann Harman, Harvest to Hydrosol (Northport, WA: IAg Botanics, 2015), 5.
2 “What Are Hydrosols?,” Hydrosol World, http://www.hydrosolworld.com/what-are-hydrosols/
Beauty Ingredient Charts: Butters
1 Jan Kusmirek, Liquid Sunshine: Vegetable Oils for Aromatherapy (Glastonbury, UK: Floramicus, 2002), 58–70.
2 “Processing Edible Oils,” Penn State Extension, http://www.extension.psu.edu/natural-resources/energy/field-crops/fact-sheets/processing-edible-oils
3 Ibid.
4 “Processing and Refining Edible Oils,” chap. 5 in Fats and Oils in Human Nutrition, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, 1994, http://www.fao.org/docrep/v4700e/v4700e0a.htm
5 “Processing Edible Oils,” Penn State Extension.
What You Need in Your Beauty Formulation Kitchen
1 Richard C. Thompson et al., “Plastics, the Environment and Human Health: Current Consensus and Future Trends,” Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences 364, no. 1526 (2009): 2153–66, doi:10.1098/rstb.2009.0053
2 Hui Gao et al., “Bisphenol A and Hormone-Associated Cancers: Current Progress and Perspectives,” Medicine 94, no. 1 (2015): e211, doi:10.1097/MD.0000000000000211
3 “Reviews of 27 Preservatives,” Making Skincare, http://www.makingskincare.com/preservatives
Facial Care
1 Samantha Faragalli, “Do You Actually Need to Wash Your Face in the Morning?” InStyle, September 13, 2015, http://www.instyle.com/news/washing-face-in-morning-necessary
2 Ibid.
3 “Almond Milk: Good for Your Skin?” FitDay, http://www.fitday.com/fitness-articles/nutrition/healthy-eating/almond-milk-good-for-your-skin.html
4 Elena Conis, “Poring Over Facts About Milk: Cow’s, Goat’s, Soy, Almond, Rice and Hemp,” Los Angeles Times, October 19, 2009, http://articles.latimes.com/2009/oct/19/health/he-milk19/3
5 Jade Shutes, “Aromatic Applications for the Skin” (course, School for Aromatic Studies, Seattle, WA, 1995).
6 Shannon Romanowski, “What Do Enzymes Do for Your Skin?” Self, February 1, 2012, http://www.self.com/flash/beauty-blog/2012/02/are-enzymes-good-for-skin/
7 The Human Microbiome Project Consortium, “Structure, Function and Diversity of the Healthy Human Microbiome,” Nature 486, no. 7402 (2012): 207–14, doi:10.1038/nature11234
8 Anna Azvolinsky, “Birth of the Skin Microbiome,” The Scientist, November 17, 2015, http://www. the-scientist.com/?articles.view/articleNo/44488/title/Birth-of-the-Skin-Microbiome/
9 Yiyin Erin Chen and Hensin Tsao, “The Skin Microbiome: Current Perspectives and Future Challenges,” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 69, no. 1 (2013): 143–55, doi:10.1016/j. jaad.2013.01.016
10 “Our Research,” Mother Dirt, http://www.motherdirt.com/our-research&s=n
11 Chris Kresser, “Skin Microbiota and Your Health,” Chris Kresser (blog,) May 3, 2016, http://www.chriskresser.com/skin-microbiota-and-your-health/
12 Kristin Collins Jackson, “The Strawberry Benefits for Skin Are Even Sweeter Than You’d Imagined,” Bustle, April 23, 2015, https://www.bustle.com/articles/76386-the-strawberry-benefits-for-skin-are-even-sweeter-than-youd-imagined
13 Saint Louis University, “Treating Acne: Two Different Acid Peels Are Both Effective, Study Finds,” ScienceDaily, February 7, 2008, http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/02/080206121508.htm
14 “Understanding Acne Treatment,” WebMD, http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/acne/understanding-acne-treatment#1
15 Israel Zeligman, “Topical Chlorophyll Therapy in the Dermatoses,” Journal of Investigative Dermatology 13, no. 3 (1949): 111–13, doi:10.1038/jid.1949.75
16 D. Weir and K. L. Farley, “Relative Delivery Efficiency and Convenience of Spray and Ointment Formulations of Papain/Urea/Chlorophyllin Enzymatic Wound Therapies,” abstract, Journal of Wound, Ostomy and Continence Nursing 33, no. 5 (2006): 482–90, http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17133135; and Y. L. Zhang et al., “The Protective Effect of Chlorophyllin Against Oxidative Damage and Its Mechanism,” abstract, Zhonghua Nei Ke Za Zhi 51, no. 6 (2012): 466–70, http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22943759
17 C. Antille et al., “Topical Beta-carotene Is Converted to Retinyl Esters in Human Skin Ex Vivo and Mouse Skin In Vivo,” abstract, Experimental Dermatology 13, no. 9 (2004): 558–61, http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15335356
18 Theodore L. Sourkes, “The Discovery and Early History of Carotene,” Bulletin for the History of Chemistry 34, no. 1 (2009): 32–38, http://www.scs.illinois.edu/~mainzv/HIST/bulletin_open_access/v34-1/v34-1%20p32-38.pdf
19 “Vitamin A Fact Sheet for Health Professionals,” U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements, http://www.ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/VitaminA-HealthProfessional/
20 Christian Nordqvist, “What Is Beta-carotene? What Are the Benefits of Beta-carotene?” Medical News Today, last modified October 26, 2016, http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/252758.php
21 “Opinion on Vitamin A,” European Commission, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, last modified December 23, 2016, http://www.ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_199.pdf
22 “NTP Technical Report on the Photococarcinogenesis Study of Retinoic Acid and Retinyl Palmitate,” U. S. Department of Health and Human Services, National Institutes of Health, Public Health Services, August 2012, https://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/htdocs/lt_rpts/tr568_508.pdf
23 “13 Magical Benefits of Shea Butter for Skin, Hair and Health,” MJ Celebrity Magazine, http://www.mjemagazine.com/13-magical-benefits-of-shea-butter-for-skin-hair-and-health/
24 Toshihiro Akihisa et al., “Anti-inflammatory and Chemopreventive Effects of Triterpene Cinnamates and Acetates from Shea Fat,” Journal of Oleo Science 59, no. 6 (2010): 273–80, doi:10.5650/jos.59.273
25 Elizabeth Siegel, “Can You Use Coconut Oil as Makeup Remover?” Allure, March 12, 2015, http://www.allure.com/story/coconut-oil-makeup-remover
26 “The Science Behind the Health Benefits of Steam Showers,” Mr. Steam (blog), July 6, 2016, http://blog.mrsteam.com/archive/the-science-behind-the-health-benefits-of-steam-showers
27 Wikipedia, s.v. “Aloe vera,” accessed November 27, 2016, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Aloe_vera&oldid=751718067
28 Amar Surjushe, Resham Vasani, and D. G. Saple, “Aloe Vera: A Short Review,” Indian Journal of Dermatology 53, no. 4 (2008): 163–66, doi:10.4103/0019-5154.44785
29 Ibid.
30 P. Chithra, G. B. Sajithlal, and G. Chandrakasan, “Influence of Aloe Vera on Collagen Characteristics in Healing Dermal Wounds in Rats,” abstract, Molecular and Cellular Biochemistry 181, nos. 1–2 (1998): 71–76, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9562243
31 Gina Fisher, “Lip Moisturizers 101,” How Stuff Works, August 20, 2009, http://health.howstuffworks.com/skin-care/lip-care/tips/lip-moisturizers2.htm
32 Sierra Bright, “13 Amazing Health & Beauty Benefits of Cocoa Butter,” Natural Living Ideas, January 21, 2016, http://www.naturallivingideas.com/13-amazing-benefits-cocoa-butter/
Hair Care
1 Lalitha Priyanka Dwarampudi et al., “Antipsoriatic Activity and Cytotoxicity of Ethanolic Extract of Nigella sativa Seeds,” Pharmacognosy Magazine 8, no. 32 (2012): 268–72, doi:10.4103/0973-1296.103650
2 Paige Padgett, “Is Broccoli Seed Oil All Over Your Hair and Face Yet? (Because It Totally Should Be),” Organic Authority, July 14, 2016, http://www.organicauthority.com/is-broccoli-seed-oil-all-over-your-hair-face
3 Diane Mary, “4 Ways Broccoli Will Help Your Curly Hair Journey,” Naturally Curly, May 18, 2015, http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/home/4-ways-broccoli-will-help-your-curly-hair-journey/
Body Care
1 Marco Harari and Jashovam Shani, “Demographic Evaluation of Successful Antipsoriatic Climatotherapy at the Dead Sea (Israel) DMZ Clinic,” International Journal of Dermatology 36, no. 4 (1997): 304–5.doi:10.1046/j.1365-4362.1997.00204.x. See also Wikipedia, s.v. “Dead Sea salt,” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_Sea_salt#cite_note-creakyjoints-5
2 Laurice Maruek, “Dead Sea Salt vs. Epsom Salt,” Livestrong, last modified January 9, 2014, http://www.livestrong.com/article/248504-dead-sea-salt-vs-epsom-salt/
3 J. Sharad, “Glycolic Acid Peel Therapy—a Current Review,” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 6 (2013), 281–88, doi:10.2147/CCID.S34029
4 S. Montserrat-de la Paz et al., “Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) Seed Oil: Analytical and Phytochemical Characterization of the Unsaponifiable Fraction,” Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 62, no. 5 (2014): 1105–10, doi:10.1021/jf404278q
5 Ehrhardt Proksch et al., “Bathing in a Magnesium-Rich Dead Sea Salt Solution Improves Skin Barrier Function, Enhances Skin Hydration, and Reduces Inflammation in Atopic Dry Skin,” International Journal of Dermatology 44, no. 2 (2005): 151–57, doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2005.02079.x
6 Joi A. Nichols and Santosh K. Katiyar, “Skin Photoprotection by Natural Polyphenols: Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant and DNA Repair Mechanisms,” Archives of Dermatological Research 302, no. 2 (2010): 71, doi:10.1007/s00403-009-1001-3
7 P. Gasser et al., “Cocoa Polyphenols and Their Influence on Parameters Involved in Ex Vivo Skin Restructuring,” International Journal of Cosmetic Science 30, no. 5 (2008): 339–45.doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00457.x
8 Zoe Diana Draelos and Peter T. Pugliese, Physiology of the Skin, 3rd ed. (Carol Stream, IL: Allured Books, 2011), 33–36.
Personal Care
1 Janet Raloff, “Cinnamon Cleans the Breath,” Science News, May 20, 2004, https://www.sciencenews.org/blog/food-thought/cinnamon-cleans-breath
2 L. Lakhdar et al., “Antibacterial Activity of Essential Oils Against Periodontal Pathogens: A Qualitative Systematic Review,” abstract, Odonto-stomatologie Tropicale 35, no. 140 (2012): 38–46, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23513511
3 Edward Group, “Why You Should Use Aluminum-Free Deodorant,” Global Healing Center, last modified June 8, 2015, http://www.globalhealingcenter.com/natural-health/why-you-should-use-aluminum-free-deodorant/#2; and P. D. Darbre, “Aluminum, Antiperspirants and Breast Cancer,” Journal of Inorganic Biochemistry 99, no. 9 (2005): 1912–19, doi:10.1016/j.jinorgbio.2005.06.001
4 “Concern over Deodorant Chemicals,” BBC News, January 11, 2004, http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/3383393.stm
5 Joseph Mercola, “Triclosan: The Soap Ingredient You Should Never use–But 75% of Households Do,” Mercola, August 29, 2012, http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2012/08/29/triclosan-in-personal-care-products.aspx
6 “Handwashing: Clean Hands Save Lives,” Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), last modified February 22, 2016, http://www.cdc.gov/handwashing/show-me-the-science-hand-sanitizer.html