We’ve categorized all the ingredients that we use in our plant-powered recipes into eleven charts. We hope that these simple reference charts will provide you with not only the essential go-to facts about each ingredient, so you can get to know them more intimately, but also the confidence to mix and match other recommended ingredients to create your own unique twists for many of the recipes we share.
The charts are divided into the following categories:
1. carrier oils (cold-pressed oils from nuts, seeds, and fruits)
2. herbal infusions (oils, usually olive or sunflower, in which medicinal herbs like calendula and comfrey have been soaked)
3. hydrosols (unique by-products of the steam distillation process)
4. butters (thick fatty extracts from cacao beans, mango seeds, and shea nuts)
5. waxes (from bees or plants like candelilla)
6. clays (from the earth)
7. exfoliants (including sugars and various salts that contain a rich array of minerals)
8. herbs and spices
9. flours and grains
10. fruits and vegetables
11. other ingredients (like vegetable glycerin, xanthan gum, and castile soap)
There is a wealth of information in these charts, and we hope the detailed descriptions of the ingredients and of how they are processed, along with the data on their unique therapeutic benefits, will bring you closer to experiencing how plant-powered beauty actually works.
WHAT THEY ARE
Carrier oils are obtained from the fatty portion of a plant, such as the nut or seed. Some examples of carrier oils are almond, apricot kernel, avocado, baobab, coconut, borage, hemp seed, jojoba, olive, sesame, and sunflower.
Beauty Note!
Aromatherapists use the term carrier oils because of these oils’ ability to carry the molecules of essential oils into the body.1 But in the realm of botanical beauty formulation and organic skincare, these unique materials are better known as base oils, fixed oils, or vegetable oils.
HOW THEY ARE USED
In addition to their ability to safely dilute and solubilize the molecules of essential oils so they may be “carried” into our skin, these vegetable oils can also provide a nice source of vitamins (A, D, and E, to name a few) and a rich array of essential fatty acids, which are needed for our skin to stay healthy and hydrated.
ALMOND OIL /PRUNUS DULCIS |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
thought to be native to Central Asia; now cultivated in the US |
cold-pressed |
Raw nut is removed from the shell. It is cleaned, sorted, and possibly soaked in water, or a salt water solution, to remove impurities, then sun dried, or mechanically dried. The hulls then are removed, and the nuts are ground into a fine powder and pressed, yielding a “crude” unrefined oil. Refining: filtering to remove any sediment. Deodorizing: to remove aromatic components. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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trace amounts of fat-soluble vitamins A and E |
palmitic acid: 6–8% stearic acid: 0.5–2% oleic acid: 64–82% linoleic acid: 8–28% |
trace amounts of sterols and polyphenols, can offer a nice aroma when it’s not deodorized, smooth feel, rich in oleic acid |
emollient, skin softening, boosts immune function of skin, anti-inflammatory, healing, improves skin tone |
APRICOT KERNEL /PRUNUS ARMENIACA L. |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
native to Iran and Manchuria; now cultivated extensively in the US and Europe |
cold-pressed |
Kernel is removed from the fruit, and it is cleaned, sorted, and soaked in water, or a salt water solution, to remove impurities, then sun dried, or mechanically dried. The hulls then are removed, and the nuts are ground into a fine powder and pressed, yielding a “crude” unrefined oil. Refining: filtering to remove any sediment. Deodorizing: to remove aromatic components. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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rich in vitamin E |
palmitic acid: 4–9% palmitoleic acid: 0.5–1% stearic acid: 0.5–1% oleic acid: 58–75% linoleic acid: 25–30% alpha-linolenic acid: 0.3% |
great alternative for those with nut allergies; excellent for blending with other rich oils; light to touch, easily absorbed, very light feel that is richly moisturizing; similar chemical makeup to almond oil but more stable, adds great texture to facial serums |
anti-inflammatory antibacterial, antioxidant, emollient, wound healing, scar softening |
CARRIER OILS (CONTINUED)
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
North Africa, Morocco |
cold-pressed |
The kernel is removed from the argan nut, which has a very hard shell and is hand pounded to open. The kernel is then mashed and squeezed to express the oil. When filtering, the oil sits so the sediment sinks to bottom and then the oil is strained and filtered. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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vitamin E content exists in the crude unprocessed argan oil, also present is naturally occurring squalene |
palmitic acid: 10–15% stearic acid: 5–6.5% oleic acid: 44.8–55% linoleic acid: 28–36% |
the presence of squalene makes it a great skin cell regenerator and wound healer |
emollient, essential fatty acids, wound healing, anti-inflammatory antibacterial; best used for mature, aging, damaged skin, juvenile acne dry skin, and to promote healthy scar tissue |
AVOCADO /PERSEA AMERICANA MILL. |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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DRY/MATURE/ SENSITIVE SKIN |
native to the Americas, primarily Central and South |
fresh flesh of the fruit mashed using pressure and centrifuge extraction |
Fresh and ripe avocados are cleaned, sorted, peeled, and pitted, and the flesh is put through a masher. Next the freshly ground pulp is put into a centrifuge that spins the mash so quickly that water and oil separate out of the mash and flow into a separate vat. The oil floats on the top of the water and is separated off. Filtering comes next to remove any remaining pulp or botanical material. Sometimes manufacturers may add a little stabilizer to keep the rich green color, or some unethically may add green coloring. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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fruit contains vitamins K, C, and E and helps the body absorb fat-soluble vitamins like A, D, E, and K |
palmitic acid: 7–32% palmitoleic acid: 2–13% stearic acid: 0.5–1.5% oleic acid: 36–80% linoleic acid: 6–18% alpha-linolenic acid: 0.5% |
great for softening and protecting the skin; healing and soothing for dry damaged skin, and promotes skin regeneration; adds a nice softness to the skin and blends well with other oils; very nutritive because of high content of minerals; great for weakened, depleted skin |
anti-inflammatory antioxidant, wound healing, supports immune function of skin, regenerative, softening |
CARRIER OILS (CONTINUED)
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
Africa |
cold-pressed |
Seeds are cleaned, separated, hulled, mashed, and squeezed. They are then filtered to allow sediment to sink to the bottom to be strained out. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
---|---|---|---|
vitamins E, A, and trace of D |
palmitic acid: 24.2–46% stearic acid: 2–9% oleic acid: 21–39% linoleic acid: 12–30.7% linolenic acid: 0.5–3% |
anti-inflammatory and emollient, healing to damaged skin |
supports collagen and elasticin, rich in EFA, fights free-radical damage, wound healing |
BORAGE /BORAGQ OFFICINALIS |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
native to Mediterranean region; now present in temperate climates around the world |
cold-pressed |
Seeds are cleaned, separated, hulled, mashed, and squeezed. They are then filtered to remove any sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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trace amounts present |
palmitic acid: 9–13% oleic acid: 14–20% linoleic acid: 34–45% gamma-linolenic acid: 25% eicosenoic acid: 3–5% erucic acid: 1–4% linolenic acid: 18–25% stearic acid: 3–5% |
has a unique sterol content that means it has molecules that help cells communicate and stay strong; richest known plant source for gamma-linolenic acid |
premature aging, regenerative skincare, dry or inflamed skin conditions, powerful anti-inflammatory |
CASTOR SEED /RICINUS COMMUNIS |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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DRY/COMBINATION SKIN |
native to southeastern Mediterranean area, East Africa, and India |
cold-pressed |
Seeds are cleaned, sorted, and hulled, then put under pressure. They are then filtered to remove any sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
---|---|---|---|
n/a |
ricinoleic acid: 87–89.5% palmitic acid: 1–2% linoleic acid: 3–4.2% eicosanoic acid: 0.3% linolenic acid: 0.3% stearic acid: 1% oleic acid: 3–7% |
nice collection of sterols that help strengthen cell membranes |
anti-inflammatory emollient, provides shine, humectant, pain relieving |
CARRIER OILS (CONTINUED)
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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DRY/DAMAGED SKIN |
native to the Indo-Pacific region but has since spread prolifically around the world; today, the tree/palm is mainly domesticated |
two main processes of extraction: dry and wet. The dry method generally uses solvents; the wet process uses centrifuge and pressing |
For extracted raw virgin coconut oil, meat can be milled, dried, mixed with water, treated with enzymes, screw pressed, and processed with the milk and the water. Coconut oil can also be sold as RBD, which means refined bleached deodorized, as well as what is called fractionated. See notes on page 103 for more of an explanation. We advise using a naturally deodorized coconut, or a raw virgin one, that is richly scented with coconut aromatic components. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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vitamins A, D, and K; helps the body absorb fat-soluble vitamins more readily |
caprylic acid: 6–10% capric acid: 5–10% lauric acid: 39–54% myristic acid: 15–23% palmitic acid: 6–11% stearic acid: 1–4% oleic acid: 4–11% linoleic acid: 1–2% |
rich in lauric acid, a powerful antimicrobial and antiviral agent that supports our own immunity and strengthens the health of skin |
emollient, antimicrobial, antioxidant, fighting free radical damage, anti-inflammatory, skin softening and strengthening, supports immunity, antiaging |
EVENING PRIMROSE /OENOTHERA BIENNIS |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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DRY/COMBINATION SKIN |
thought to have originated in Mexico and Central America |
cold-pressed |
cold-pressed from hulled seeds, low temperature, and low pressure since its oil is very volatile |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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very trace amounts of vitamin E, which is why it has a very short shelf life; very high in sterols, which is why it’s great for cell regeneration |
palmitic acid: 5.5–7% oleic acid: 14–18% linoleic acid: 70–75% gamma-linolenic acid: 9–10% |
softening and deeply soothing to irritated and inflamed skin; also offering a dewy glow-like feel that gives the experience of protection and healing |
regenerative skincare, mature aging skin, psoriasis and eczema, anti-inflammatory, very healing |
CARRIER OILS (CONTINUED)
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
native to Central Asia; now widely cultivated |
cold-pressed |
Seeds are dried and then soaked so hull can separate, then seeds are dried again and mashed, pressed, and filtered to separate sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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high in sterols content, low in vitamin E content; particularly rich in a constituent known as wax sterols that match the chemistry of our own skin |
palmitic acid: 5–12% palmitoleic acid: 0.5% oleic acid: 10–16% linolenic acid: 14–30% stearic acid: 1–4.5% alpha-linolenic acid: 25–65% |
anti-inflammatory soothes discomfort, supports skins barrier function |
dry skin, eczema, reduces water loss in skin, pain relieving, anti-inflammatory acne, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, regenerative, great for oily skin and to balance over production of sebum |
JOJOBA /SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
Israel, southwestern US, desert regions |
expeller-pressed |
Seeds are often hand harvested, or mechanically gathered. It’s best to harvest seeds that have ripened and fallen off the tree. Seeds are cleaned, sorted, hulled, and expeller-pressed; filtered to remove any sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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vitamins E and B complexes, along with some minerals; high in wax esters, or sterols, which resemble in chemical structure our own sterol content in our skin |
palmitic acid: 0–2% oleic acid: 10–15% eicosenoic (gadoleic) acid: 66–71% docosenoic (erucic) acid: 14–20% |
a great choice for improving the overall function of the skin, boosting its immunity, and balancing its pH; extremely stable |
antibacterial; emollient; wound healing; antioxidant; balancing, softening; soothing to irritations |
OLIVE /OLEA EUROPAEA |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
originated in the Mediterranean Basin and ancient Persia |
cold-pressed and centrifuged |
Ripe fruits are collected either by shaking the branches or hand picking, then they are washed, sorted, and pitted. Then the flesh is ground, macerated, and pressed; the centrifuge process separates the water content from the oil. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
---|---|---|---|
fat-soluble vitamins E and K |
oleic acid: 60–85% linoleic acid: 9–14% linolenic acid: 1% |
high in sterols, polyphenols, lignans, and squalene |
emollient, wound healing, cleansing, anti-inflammatory fights free radical damage |
CARRIER OILS (CONTINUED)
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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VERY DRY/MATURE SKIN |
originated in the Mediterranean basin and ancient Persia |
cold-pressed |
Tiny seeds are cold-pressed using nominal pressure, resulting in cooler processing temperatures; filtered to remove any sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
---|---|---|---|
vitamins A and E |
stearic acid: 1.7 % palmitic acid: 2.47% oleic acid: 4.63% linoleic acid: 9.78% linolenic acid: <1.0% punicic acid: 66.7–80% |
unique in its content of punicic acid |
anti-inflammatory, cell regenerator, tissue reparative, wound healing, supports collagen and elasticin production |
RED RASPBERRY SEED /RUBUS IDAEUS |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
US, Russia, and Eastern Europe |
cold-pressed |
Tiny seeds are cold-pressed using nominal pressure, resulting in cooler processing temperatures; filtered to remove any sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
---|---|---|---|
rich in tocopherols, vitamin E, and trace beta-carotene |
palmitic acid: .9% stearic acid: 2% oleic acid: 11.7% linoleic acid: 52.1% linolenic acid: 22.2% |
excellent free radical scavenger, reduces oxidative stress of the skin; low in saturated fat |
rich source of polyunsaturated fats, including omega-3 fatty acids, and antioxidant activity, including tocopherols and tocotrienols; tocopherols contribute to the oil’s superior free radical ion-scavenging capability and lipid support |
ROSEHIP SEED /ROSA CANINA OR ROSA RUBIGINOSA |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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DRY/COMBINATION SKIN |
many regions in the world |
cold-pressed |
cold-pressed, low temperatures as the oil is very volatile and delicate; filtered to remove sediment |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
---|---|---|---|
rich in vitamin E and beta-carotene |
palmitic acid: 3.33–4.97% stearic acid: trace – 0.11% oleic acid: 12.36–14% linoleic acid: 46–48.84% linolenic acid: 26–30% |
tissue regeneration |
regenerative skincare, premature aging, reduces hyperpigmentation, reduces appearance of age spots, softens scar tissue, tissue regenerative, wound healing |
CARRIER OILS (CONTINUED)
|
WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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DRY/COMBINATION SKIN |
cold climates like Scandinavia and Canada |
cold-pressed and CO2 extraction |
Sea buckthorn can be extracted from either the fruit and the seeds combined or just the seeds. The fruit has a more complex collection of EFAs than the seed oil alone. This oil is also CO2 extracted from fruit and seeds and renders a very dark burnt-orange oil. Then it is filtered to remove sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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high in vitamin E, beta-carotene, and sterols |
palmitic acid: 6–31% stearic acid: 2–4% linoleic acid: 35–40.9% alpha-linolenic acid: 20–35% palmitoleic acid: < 0.5% oleic acid: 15–28.86% |
cell regenerative, soothing to damaged skin |
soothes inflamed skin conditions and sun damage, wound healing, extreme dryness, mature skin, antioxidant, emollient |
SESAME /SESAMUM INDICUM |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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DRY/COMBINATION SKIN |
Middle East, Asia |
cold-pressed |
Seeds are hulled and then ground and pressed under pressure. They are filtered to remove sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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high in antioxidants and vitamin E |
palmitic acid 8–11% oleic acid: 37–42% linoleic acid: 30–47% stearic acid: 4–6% |
excellent all-purpose oil for skin soothing and healing |
emollient, warming, good for dry skin, great for hair and nails |
CARRIER OILS (CONTINUED)
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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DRY/COMBINATION SKIN |
US, Europe, and Asia |
cold-pressed |
This special process gently extracts oils, using nominal pressure, resulting in cooler processing temperatures than extrusion processes and without using any distillation, harsh chemicals, or synthetic “stripping.” Then it is filtered to remove any sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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vitamin E |
palmitic acid: 2–10% stearic acid: 1–10% oleic acid: 14–65% linoleic acid: 20–75% linolenic acid: <1.5% palmitoleic acid: <1% arachidic acid: <1%” |
excellent all-purpose oil for skin soothing and healing; stable |
emollient, anti-inflammatory |
TAMANU /CALOPHYLLUM INOPHYLLUM |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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DRY/COMBINATION SKIN |
Polynesia |
cold-pressed |
The nuts are hulled, mashed, pressed, and filtered to remove any sediment. |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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trace of vitamins but has sterols: delta-tocotrienol (236 mg/ kg), stigmasterol (35.8–45.7%), and beta-sitosterol (47.7–43.7%) |
palmitic acid: 11–13.7% oleic acid: 39.1–50% linoleic acid: 21.7–31.1% stearic acid: 13.4–14.3% |
antimicrobial, wound healing |
wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, promotes healthy scar tissue formation, good for dry/scaly skin conditions |
TOMATO SEED /SQLANUM LYCOPERSICUM |
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WHERE IT IS SOURCED |
METHOD OF EXTRACTION |
HOW IT IS PROCESSED |
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ALL SKIN TYPES |
all climates worldwide |
cold-pressed |
This special process gently extracts oils using nominal pressure, resulting in cooler processing temperatures than extrusion processes and without using any distillation, harsh chemicals, or synthetic “stripping.” |
VITAMIN CONTENT |
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACID CONTENT |
HIGHLIGHTED FEATURES |
THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS |
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trace of lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin along with phytosterols and dissolved minerals |
palmitic acid: 12.9% stearic acid: 5.6% oleic acid: 20.8% linoleic acid: 48.9% linolenic acid: 1.89% |
antioxidant, nutritive, protective against oxidative stress of the skin, stable |
antioxidant, wound healing, protective, nourishing, anti-inflammatory, and good choice to protect against free radical damage |