° glass measuring pitcher
° small stainless steel whisk
° 1 (1-ounce) amber glass or non-BPA plastic bottle with a flip-top or pump dispenser
° 2 teaspoons vegetable glycerin
° ⅛ teaspoon xanthan gum
° 1 teaspoon tapioca starch
° 1 teaspoon castile soap
° 2 tablespoons almond milk
° 1 drop vitamin E
° 10 drops Soothing Mask Essential Oil Synergy (see page 51)
10 MINUTES
1 FLUID OUNCE
Facial cleansing is an important twice-a-day ritual to rid the skin’s surface of impurities and ensure its overall health and balance. After all, our skin is exposed to dirt, pollution, bacteria, and viruses, plus the buildup of dead skin cells, on a daily basis. Cleansing is especially critical at night, when the skin requires oxygen to repair itself. But don’t discount a morning cleanse—it works wonders by removing dead skin cells that accumulate overnight as well as allergens (such as dust) that make their way onto your skin through air-conditioning or heating systems.1 Also, don’t forget that cleansing provides a clean slate for applying nourishing moisturizers.2
Almond milk is a superfood that is especially useful for aging, dry, and sensitive skin. This under-celebrated topical ingredient contains antioxidants that work to keep skin protected against free radicals and also boasts vitamin B2, which helps preserve healthy tissues, support circulation, and enhance hydration.3 On top of all that, almond milk contains essential fatty acids, which we all need to maintain moisture and keep our skin balanced.4
1. Pour the vegetable glycerin into a glass measuring pitcher.
2. Sprinkle in the xanthan gum and begin whisking vigorously. Whisk for 3 minutes nonstop, making sure the xanthan gum dissolves completely into the vegetable glycerin.
3. While continuing to whisk, sprinkle in the tapioca starch and continue to whisk for another minute until fully combined.
4. Slowly drizzle in the castile soap, being mindful not to raise any foam. Keep whisking for another 2 minutes, until the ingredients are well combined.
5. As you continue slowly whisking, drizzle in the almond milk and whisk for another 2 to 3 minutes. You will notice the consistency beginning to slightly thicken.
6. Add the vitamin E and synergy and continue to whisk until all the ingredients are well blended.
7. Pour the product into the bottle and cap tightly. We strongly recommend using this cleanser within 1 week, since the almond milk is perishable. The cleanser should not separate, but if it does, just give it a gentle shake before use. Keep refrigerated to extend the shelf life beyond 1 week.
Beauty Note!
An almond milk cleanser can be blended in about 10 minutes, but if you make almond milk from scratch (highly recommended; see the recipe on page 158), you will need to kick things off 8 to 10 hours in advance, since the almonds need to soak before you can create the milk.
Beauty Note!
Since we are using xanthan gum as one of our ingredients, we need to follow a very precise procedure to blend everything together to ensure the quality of the final product.
° 2 large glass or ceramic bowls
° standard (40-ounce) blender
° nut milk bag
° 1 container with a lid
° 1 cup raw almonds
° 6 cups spring water, divided
8 TO 10 HOURS FOR SOAKING THE ALMONDS; 10 MINUTES FOR MAKING THE ALMOND MILK
3 ½ CUPS
STEPS
1. Place the almonds in a glass or ceramic bowl and add 2½ cups of the spring water. Soak the almonds for 8 to 10 hours.
2. Drain the almonds, discard the soaking water, and transfer the almonds to a blender with the remaining 3½ cups spring water. Blend on high for about 90 seconds.
3. Once the almonds are fully incorporated into the water, place the nut milk bag over another large bowl and carefully pour the entire contents of the blender into the bag, allowing the liquid to make its way completely through the cloth and into the bowl. Lightly squeeze the bag so that all the milk makes its way out of the bag.
4. Pour the strained milk into the container, cap tightly, and store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
WHAT THEY ARE
A gum is an ingredient that is used in skin- and body-care formulations to change the viscosity of the product. Simply put, gums are thickeners that help adjust the touch and feel of the recipe. Gums generally are derived from two kinds of sources: (1) natural sources, which include plant-based materials and naturally fermented materials, and (2) synthetic sources, which are laboratory-designed chemicals. Natural gums come from plant resins and secretions, ground seeds and other plant materials, sea plants, or the natural fermentation process of naturally occurring microorganisms. Here are some examples of natural gums:
— xanthan gum
— guar gum
— locust bean gum
— carrageenan gum
— acacia gum
Beauty Tip!
Gums can be finicky to work with, so it is best to follow a specific procedure, like first dissolving them in glycerin or a water like hydrosol. The best results are achieved when gums are used in very small percentages.
HOW THEY ARE USED
Gums are used to make the formula feel a certain way; they add unique textures. You can find them in cleansers, creams, and gels, where they help combine the oil and water components so they don’t separate. Gums generally do not have strong therapeutic properties, though they can contribute to soothing and calming the skin.
WHAT THEY ARE
When you are using fresh plant-based botanical ingredients, be mindful that their shelf life is extremely short. Think about preparing our beauty recipes as you would think about cooking a special meal, understanding that the dish is best served immediately and that leftovers lose their potency and flavor and may spoil quickly. And although many of our recipes are intended for immediate use, we feel it is important to bring up the subject of preservatives.
A preservative is either a naturally occurring chemical (like some of the molecules that occur naturally in tea tree essential oil, for example) or a synthetically created chemical that is added to food or body care products to prevent them from decaying, changing chemically over time and becoming contaminated with undesirable microbes that could be harmful to our health.
HOW THEY ARE USED
Preservatives are used to increase the shelf life of a product and prevent contamination. Since our recipes are all intended for immediate use, we do not include any natural preservatives.
We’d like to note that our omission of preservatives in our recipes doesn’t mean that we are advocating “preservative-free” products. It’s a good practice to be mindful that any plant-based beauty product has the potential to degrade and become contaminated by the growth of yeast, mold, and other possibly harmful microbes. A product that is marketed and sold as “preservative-free” isn’t necessarily safer. We see preservatives as playing an important role in keeping natural beauty products safe and stable.
° glass bowl or beaker
° glass or wooden stirrer
° 1 (2-ounce) non-BPA plastic bottle with a foaming pump
° 1 tablespoon honey
° 1 tablespoon castile soap
° 1 drop vitamin E
° 26 drops Foaming Honey Essential Oil Synergy (see page 50)
° 2 tablespoons distilled water
10 MINUTES
2 FLUID OUNCES
There is something uniquely luxurious about using a special foaming pump for this cleanser recipe featuring honey. Like a fine dessert, the honey provides a richly nourishing sweetness that soothes both body and soul.
STEPS
1. Pour the honey and castile soap into a glass bowl or beaker and stir until well combined.
2. Continue stirring as you add the vitamin E and synergy.
3. Slowly add the distilled water into the honey and soap mixture and continue stirring until the ingredients are fully incorporated. The color should be a very pale yellow.
4. Transfer the mixture to the bottle and twist the foaming pump into place. The cleanser is ready to use and will stay fresh for about 3 weeks. This recipe is good for all skin types.
How to Use Foaming Honey Facial Cleanser:
1. Place one to two full pumps of the cleanser in the palm of your hand.
2. Rub your hands together and add water to build up the foam.
3. Generously apply the foam to your face, gently making circular motions to cleanse your skin fully.
4. After 30 seconds to 1 minute, use warm water to rinse off the cleanser.
5. Pat your face dry using a clean cotton towel.
° glass or stainless steel bowl or beaker
° glass or wooden stirrer
° 1 (1-ounce) glass bottle or non-BPA plastic bottle with a dropper cap or flip-top
° 1 tablespoon plantain-infused olive oil
° 1 tablespoon sesame oil
° 1 teaspoon vegetable glycerin
° 10 drops Olive Oil Cleanser Essential Oil Synergy (see page 50)
10 MINUTES
1 FLUID OUNCE
Oil cleansing is the process of using oil, instead of soap or a cleanser, to dissolve and remove impurities from the skin. It works by massaging extracts from botanicals, vegetables, and fruit into the skin to cleanse pores of dirt and bacteria. These natural ingredients effectively tackle sebum (oil produced by the skin) while nourishing and balancing skin. Olive oil, which plays a starring role in this recipe, is a favorite ingredient due to its antioxidant powers5 and the presence of vitamin E. We recommend using an extra-virgin olive oil that has been cold-pressed.
Beauty Note!
Keep in mind that if you are making your own plantain-infused olive oil, you will need to start the process for the infusion 3 months in advance. See page 92 for how to infuse herbal oils.
STEPS
1. In a glass or stainless steel bowl or beaker, combine the olive oil, sesame oil, and vegetable glycerin, and stir together.
2. Add the synergy and stir gently to combine.
3. Transfer the mixture to the bottle, fasten the cap, and shake. Store in a cool, dark area. Do not refrigerate. The cleanser should last for 1 year.
Beauty Tip!
How to Use Olive Oil Facial Cleanser:
You will need two cotton pads and a hydrosol of your choice in a spray bottle.
1. Lightly dampen the two cotton pads on both sides with the hydrosol.
2. Pump two helpings of Olive Oil Facial Cleanser into the center of one side of each dampened pad.
3. Using gentle circular motions, start around your nose and cheeks and work your way around your entire face with one of the pads. If you find the pad is quickly absorbing a good deal of dirt and grime, continue with the second fresh pad.
4. Once your entire face is cleansed, finish off by rinsing with warm water and patting your face dry with a clean cotton towel.
Our mask and scrub recipes include a variety of botanical powders as ingredients. It’s easy to purchase already dried and powdered vegetables, fruits, herbs, and grains, and we offer a few reliable sources in our resources section (see page 269) to procure them, but if you are inspired to trace these ingredients back to their sources and create the powders yourself, the process is really quite simple.
What you will need
° dehydrator
° spice grinder or coffee grinder
° silicone brush or small wooden spoon
° glass storage jars with tight-fitting lids
° labels
1. Decide what you want to powder and source the ingredients.
Depending on what therapeutic actions you are looking for, you will reach for different types of plant materials, including fruits, vegetables, herbs, and grains. Once you narrow down what you need, we suggest finding a source for fresh, locally grown vegetables, fruits, and herbs, and collecting at least 8 to 16 ounces.
2. Dehydrate it.
Most home-use dehydrators have recommended instructions for preparing fresh fruits, herbs, and vegetables to be dehydrated. We suggest familiarizing yourself with your particular machine to make sure you understand the most effective ways to use it. Here are a few of our own tips:
— Berries: Carefully and thoroughly wash and hand-dry all berries, being careful to remove any damaged berries, stems, leaves, and imperfections. We have had better results when we slice strawberries but leave raspberries and blackberries whole. Raspberries and blackberries should be placed on the dehydrator trays with the hollow side facing down for maximum drying. Blueberries should be quickly blanched to slightly pierce their tough skins, but make sure to dry them well before placing them on the dehydrator trays.
— Fruits: Fruits dry best when peeled and thinly sliced. We have found misting the slices with freshly squeezed lemon juice while they are on the trays prevents them from browning.
— Vegetables: Carefully wash vegetables and then peel if needed, like for carrots, and chop thinly. Make sure they are thoroughly patted dry of all excess water.
— Herbs: For flowers we don’t recommend washing, but for leaves like peppermint, basil, tarragon, rosemary, thyme, and so on, we suggest you rinse them gently, pluck them from the stems, remove all imperfections, and pat them dry before placing them on the trays.
Follow the recommended instructions for setting temperature and time. In general, we have found setting the dehydrator between 125 and 135 degrees works best. However, be aware of the climate you are in; a more humid environment will increase drying times, whereas a drier zone may decrease them. We suggest checking in on the progress after 10 to 12 hours to gauge it. To test whether the plant material is sufficiently dried, snap the dried fruit or vegetable and listen for a “crack,” indicating it is fully dried with no moisture left.
3. Grind it.
When you are certain the material is dried out, gather it up and start grinding. Using a good-quality electric spice or coffee grinder is key for producing softly textured and beautiful-looking powders. A mortar and pestle also works well, but can be more labor-intensive and may not grind the material uniformly.
4. Jar and label it.
We strongly recommend using only glass to store your powders. Make sure the containers are well cleaned and sterilized. Brush out the powders from the grinder, place in jars, and label with the contents and date. They are now ready for use. We recommend keeping your powders refrigerated so they will stay fresh for a few months.