WHOLE SALMON ON THE GRILL WITH LEMON AND BAY LAUREL

Grilling a whole salmon in a grill basket is the surefire way to achieve a beautifully crisp-skinned, moist fish that doesn’t stick to the grill grate. My favorite style of grill basket is a large fish-shaped cage. Although the baskets come in different sizes, I prefer one large enough to hold a good-size sockeye salmon. They are hinged on one end and have wire handles on the other end that clasp together when the basket is closed. They also have metal feet on both sides so the basket sits up off the grill grate. If you oil the skin of the fish and use nonstick spray on the grill basket, you’ll be able to remove the fish without the skin tearing. A grill basket works equally well for cooking a whole side of salmon.

Serves 6 to 8

One 5- to 7-lb [2.3- to 3.2-kg] whole salmon, preferably sockeye, gutted, cleaned, and scaled, head removed and tail left on, skin-dried (see page 40)

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

16 fresh bay leaves, or dried leaves soaked in warm water for 20 minutes

1 small yellow onion, cut into thin rounds

1 lemon, sliced paper-thin

Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing

You will also need

Large fish-shaped grill basket

1Remove the salmon from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling to bring it to room temperature. Pat dry with paper towels.

2Prepare a medium fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill to medium. Coat the grill basket with nonstick cooking spray. Check to see if the salmon will fit comfortably, albeit snuggly, in the grill basket. If the salmon is too long, trim off the tail.

3Sprinkle the fish cavity generously with salt and pepper. Lay half of the bay leaves in a line along the length of the cavity. Overlap the onion rounds on top of the bay leaves. Overlap the lemon slices on top of the onion, and then arrange the remaining bay leaves in a line on top of the lemon. Brush or rub the skin of the salmon all over with olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Securely close the basket.

4The internal temperature of the grill should be about 425°F [220°C]. If needed, bank the coals to one side of the charcoal grill or turn off one of the burners of the gas grill to attain that temperature when the grill is covered. Place the grill basket directly over the fire and cover the grill. Grill the salmon on one side until the skin is crisp and brown, about 10 minutes. Turn the basket over and grill the fish on the other side until it is almost opaque throughout but still very moist, or an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center away from the spine registers about 120°F [49°C], about 8 minutes longer.

5Transfer the basket to a heat-resistant surface. Unlatch the grill basket slowly to avoid tearing the skin. Use a table knife to release any skin sticking to the wires. Carefully lift and transfer the salmon to a warmed serving platter.

6To serve the fish whole, peel off the top skin or leave it on. (This decision is up to the cook; you either like salmon skin or you don’t.) Using a carving knife, cut along the seam running lengthwise down the middle of the backbone, then make cuts crosswise into serving-size portions. Using a knife and a serving spatula, loosen the pieces of fish. This will make it easier for your guests to serve themselves. When the top fillet has been served, lift off the backbone and ribs and then slide the bay leaves and onion and lemon slices to the side. Cut the bottom fillet into crosswise portions. To serve individual plates, follow the same procedure, portioning the salmon onto warmed dinner plates.

HERE ARE A FEW MORE GRILLING TIPS THAT WILL GUARANTEE SUCCESS:

• Start with a clean, hot, well-oiled grill grate. Small bits of charred food left on the grate will stick to a raw fish fillet and tear the flesh when you try to move it. Preheat the grate; brush it so it is clean, clean, clean; and then oil the grate until it is well coated and slick.
• Even if the fish has been seasoned with an oil-based marinade, paste, or rub, brush it or rub it on all sides with oil before putting it on the grill. This step is critical to successful fish grilling. Don’t be afraid to give the fillets a good coating. It won’t make the fish oily, and it will prevent it from sticking.
• Use a wide spatula or a fish spatula to turn fillets, and use tongs to turn skewers. Salmon fillets need to be supported when they are turned, so having the correct tool is important. Also, turn fillets only once. The less you move them, the less likely they are to fall apart.
• The timings in the recipes are only guidelines, as every grill—and every fire—is slightly different. Lift the edge of a fillet to see if the flesh on the underside is nicely seared with beautiful grill marks and, if it is, turn the fillet. Check for doneness with an instant-read thermometer.