INTRODUCTION TO SANTIAGO
Set on a wide plain near the foot of the Andes, Santiago boasts one of the most dazzling backdrops of any capital city on earth. The views onto the towering cordillera after a rainstorm clears the air are truly magnificent, especially in winter, when the snow-covered peaks rise behind the city like a giant white rampart against the blue sky (though smog, unfortunately, often obscures such vistas). The city itself is a rapidly expanding metropolis of around seven million people, and though long in the shadow of some other major South American cities, such as Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro, it has its own proud identity.
Santiago is divided into 32 autonomous comunas, most of them squat, flat suburbs stretching out from the heart of the city. The historic centre, in contrast, is compact, manageable, and has a pleasant atmosphere. Part of the appeal comes from the fact that it’s so green: tall, luxuriant trees fill the main square, and there are numerous meticulously landscaped parks. Above all, though, it’s the all-pervading sense of energy that makes the place so alluring, with crowds of Santiaguinos constantly milling through narrow streets packed with shoe-shiners, fruit barrows, news kiosks and sellers of everything from coat hangers to pirated DVDs.
Architecturally, the city is a bit of a hotchpotch, thanks to a succession of earthquakes and a spate of haphazard rebuilding in the 1960s and 1970s. Ugly office blocks and shopping arcades (galerías) compete for space with beautifully maintained colonial buildings, while east of the centre Santiago’s economic boom is reflected in the glittering new commercial buildings, skyscrapers and luxury hotels of the comunas of Vitacura, Providencia and Las Condes. These different faces are part of a wider set of contrasts – between the American-style shopping malls in the barrios altos, for example, and the old-fashioned shops in the historic centre; between the modish lounge bars and the greasy-spoon cafes known as fuentes de soda; and, in particular, between the sharp-suited professionals and the scores of street sellers scrambling to make a living. It’s not a place of excesses, however: homelessness is minimal compared with many other cities of its size, and Santiago is pretty safe.
Santiago is also a great base for exploring the surrounding region. With the Andes so close and accessible, you can be right in the mountains in an hour or two. In winter people go skiing for the day; in warmer months the Cajón del Maipo offers fantastic trekking, horseriding and rafting. The port city of Valparaíso and beach resorts in and around Viña del Mar are in day-trip territory from the capital, while nearby villages such as Los Andes and Pomaire can provide a relaxing antidote to Santiago’s bustle. Still more tempting are the many vineyards within easy reach.
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CATEDRAL METROPOLITANA, PLAZA DE ARMAS, SANTIAGO
Highlights
1 Plaza de Armas Gaze at the colonial architecture surrounding Santiago’s lively central plaza – or sit on a bench and take in the hustle and bustle.
2 Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino This exquisite collection of artefacts from dozens of pre-Hispanic civilizations features fine tapestries, intricate ceramics and dazzling jewels.
3 Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos This large new museum is dedicated to remembering the victims of Chile’s dictatorship. It does not make comfortable viewing but it is essential to understanding those dark years.
4 Mercado Central and La Vega Explore the city’s two main markets and sample a selection of excellent fresh fish and seafood.
5 Cerro San Cristóbal Ride the elevator to the top of this steep hill where, on a clear day, you have great views of the snowcapped Andes towering over the city.
6 Andean skiing Skiers and snowboarders will delight in the world-class ski areas near Santiago, including the world-famous Portillo resort.
Highlights are marked on the following maps: Santiago and around and Santiago
For details on getting to Santiago and travelling across the rest of Chile, as well as information on entry requirements and currency, plus travelling with children, national holidays and sport, turn to the Chile Basics section.
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SANTIAGO
Increasingly becoming a destination in its own right rather than simply the entry point into Chile, SANTIAGO is a cultural, economic and historical hub, and the best place to get a handle on the country’s identity. Dipping into the city’s vibrant and constantly developing cultural scene, checking out its museums, and dining at its varied restaurants will really help you make the most of your time in this kaleidoscopic country.
You can get round many of Santiago’s attractions on foot in two to three days. The historic centre has the bustling Plaza de Armas at its core, while north of downtown, on the other side of the Río Mapocho, it’s an easy funicular ride up Cerro San Cristóbal, whose summit provides unrivalled views. At its foot, Barrio Bellavista is replete with cafés, restaurants, bars and clubs. West of the centre, the once glamorous barrios that housed Santiago’s moneyed classes at the beginning of the twentieth century make for rewarding, romantic wanders, and contain some splendid old mansions and museums. Moving east into Providencia and Las Condes, the tone is newer and flasher, with shiny malls and upmarket restaurants, as well as the crafts market at Los Dominicos.
Brief history
In 1540, some seven years after Francisco Pizarro conquered Cuzco in Peru, he dispatched Pedro de Valdivia southwards to claim and settle more territory for the Spanish crown. After eleven months of travelling, Valdivia and his 150 men reached what he considered to be a suitable site for a new city, and, on February 12, 1541, officially founded “Santiago de la Nueva Extremadura”, wedged into a triangle of land bounded by the Río Mapocho to the north, its southern branch to the south and the rocky Santa Lucía hill to the east. A native population of Picunche was scattered around the region, but this didn’t deter Valdivia from getting down to business: with great alacrity the main square was established and the surrounding streets were marked out with a string and ruler, a fort was built in the square (thus named “Plaza de Armas”) and several other buildings were erected. Six months later they were all razed in a Picunche raid.
The town was doggedly rebuilt to the same plans, and Santiago began to take on the shape of a new colonial capital. But nine years after founding it, the Spaniards, in search of gold, shifted their attention to Arauco in the south, and Santiago became something of a backwater. Following the violent Mapuche uprising in 1553, however, the Spaniards were forced to abandon their towns south of the Biobío, and many returned to Santiago. Nonetheless, growth continued to be very slow: settlers were never large in number, and what opportunities the land offered were thwarted by strict trade restrictions. Moreover, expansion was repeatedly knocked back by regular earthquakes.
Independence
Santiago started to look like a real capital during the course of the eighteenth century, as trade restrictions were eased, more wealth was created, and the population increased. However, it wasn’t until after independence in 1818 that expansion really got going, as the rich clamoured to build themselves glamorous mansions and the state erected beautiful public buildings such as the Teatro Municipal.
Santiago today
As the city entered the twentieth century it began to push eastwards into the new barrio alto and north into Bellavista. The horizontal spread has gone well beyond these limits since then, gobbling up outlying towns and villages at great speed; Gran Santiago now stretches 40km by 40km. Its central zones have shot up vertically, too, particularly in Providencia and Las Condes, where the showy high-rise buildings reflect the country’s rapid economic growth since the 1990s. Despite this dramatic transformation, however, the city’s central core still sticks to the same street pattern marked out by Pedro de Valdivia in 1541, and its first public space, the Plaza de Armas, is still at the heart of its street life.
Plaza de Armas and around
The Plaza de Armas is the centre of Santiago and the country, both literally – all distances to the rest of Chile are measured from here – and symbolically. It was the first public space laid out by Pedro de Valdivia when he founded the city in 1541 and quickly became the nucleus of Santiago’s administrative, commercial and social life. This is where the young capital’s most important seats of power – the law courts, the governor’s palace, and the cathedral – were built, and where its markets, bullfights (no longer allowed), festivals and other public activities took place. Four and a half centuries later, this is still where the city’s pulse beats loudest, and half an hour’s people-watching here is perhaps the best introduction to Santiago.
These days the open market space has been replaced by flower gardens and numerous trees; palms, poplars and eucalyptus tower over benches packed with giggling schoolchildren, gossiping old men, lovers, tourists, indulgent grandmothers and packs of uniformed shop girls on their lunch break. Thirsty dogs hang around the fountain; shoe-shiners polish the feet of dour businessmen clutching El Mercurio; and ancient-looking chess players hold sombre tournaments inside the bandstand. Against this is a backdrop of constant noise supplied by street performers, singers and evangelical preachers. Meanwhile, a constant ebb and flow of people march in and out of the great civic and religious buildings enclosing the square.
Correo Central
Plaza de Armas 559 • Mon–Fri 8.30am–7pm, Sat 8.30am–1pm
On the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas stands the Correo Central (central post office), whose interior, with its tiered galleries crowned by a beautiful glass roof, is every bit as impressive as its elaborate facade. It was built in 1882 on the foundations of what had been the Palacio de los Gobernadores (governors’ palace) during colonial times, and the Palacio de los Presidentes de Chile (presidential palace) after independence.
Municipalidad
Plaza de Armas s/n
On the northeast corner of the Plaza de Armas is the pale, Neoclassical edifice of Santiago’s Municipalidad. The first cabildo (town hall) was erected on this site back in the early seventeenth century and also contained the city’s prison. Several reconstructions and restorations have taken place since then, most recently in 1895. A curious feature is that the basement is still divided into the original cells of the old prison, now used by the tourist office.
Museo Histórico Nacional
Plaza de Armas • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • Free • 
2
2411 7010, 
museohistoriconacional.cl
Wedged between the Correo and the Municipalidad is the splendid Palacio de la Real Audiencia, an immaculately preserved colonial building that’s borne witness to some of Santiago’s most important turns of history. Built by the Spanish Crown between 1804 and 1807 to house the royal courts of justice, it had served this purpose for just two years when Chile’s first government junta assembled here to replace the Spanish governor with its own elected leader. Eight years later it was the meeting place of Chile’s first Congress, and the building was the seat of government until 1846, when President Bulnes moved to La Moneda. The Palacio’s grand old rooms, situated around a large central courtyard, today house the Museo Histórico Nacional. Arranged chronologically over two floors, the rooms are crammed with eclectic relics of the past, including furniture, city models and paintings of historic rather than artistic value – note the classic portrait of Bernardo O’Higgins upstairs, followed by a row of paintings of members of the Chilean elite, all of whom seem to be doing their best to imitate the independence hero. All of it is fun to look at, but it’s a little too chaotic to be really illuminating, even if you can understand the Spanish-only information panels.
Catedral Metropolitana
Plaza de Armas • Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–noon • Free
The west side of the Plaza de Armas is dominated by the grandiose stone bulk of the Catedral Metropolitana. A combination of Neoclassical and Baroque styles, with its orderly columns and pediment and its ornate bell towers, the cathedral bears the mark of Joaquín Toesca, who was brought over from Italy in 1780 to oversee its completion. Toesca went on to become the most important architect of colonial Chile, designing many of Santiago’s public buildings, including La Moneda. This is actually the fifth church to be built on this site; the first was burnt down by Picunche just months after Valdivia had it built, and the others were destroyed by earthquakes. Inside, take a look at the main altar, carved out of marble and richly embellished with bronze and lapis lazuli. Note also the intricately crafted silver frontal, the work of Bavarian Jesuits in the sixteenth century. Extensive restoration work began in 2014, and the facade may be hidden from view for some time.
Casa Colorada
Merced 860 • Closed for restoration at time of writing
Just off the southeast corner of the Plaza de Armas is the Casa Colorada, built in 1769 and generally considered to be Santiago’s best-preserved colonial house. With its clay-tiled roof, row of balconied windows opening onto the street and distinctive, deep-red walls, the two-storey mansion certainly provides a striking example of an eighteenth-century town residence. The house is built around two large patios, and hosts the humble Museo de Santiago, dedicated to the history of the city from pre-Columbian to modern times.
Ex-Congreso Nacional
Morandé and Compañía • Not generally open to the public
The impressive white, classically built Ex Congreso Nacional, set amid lush gardens two blocks west of the Plaza de Armas, is where Congress used to meet until it was dissolved on September 11, 1973, the day of the coup d’état. In 1990, following the end of the military regime, a new congress building was erected in Valparaíso, although members of Congress still use this one for its library and meeting rooms.
Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino
Compañía and Bandera • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • CH$3500 •
2 2928 1500, precolombino.cl
Just off the southwest corner of the Plaza de Armas is the beautifully restored 1807 Real Casa de la Aduana (the old royal customs house), which now houses the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino. Perhaps Chile’s best museum, it was reopened in 2014 after a thorough renovation.
The museum’s collection spans a period of about ten thousand years and covers an area stretching from present-day Mexico down to southern Chile, brilliantly illustrating the artistic wealth and diversity of Latin America’s many cultures. The items were selected primarily on the basis of their artistic merit, rather than on their scientific or anthropological significance. As well as the permanent exhibits in the basement and upstairs, the ground floor has three rooms containing temporary exhibitions.
Chile antes de Chile
The basement houses the “Chile antes de Chile” (Chile before Chile) exhibition, which showcases items from pre-Columbian indigenous groups native to the sliver of land and islands that are now Chile. Highlights here include Aymara silverware, wooden Easter Island statues and Inca tunics and bags with geometric designs that would not look out of a place in an Andes village market today, although these examples are hundreds of years old. The curious exhibit that looks like a grass skirt is also a relic from the Inca, who made it all the way down to central Chile during their expansion in the fifteenth century. Known as a quipú, it consists of many strands of wool attached to a single cord, and was used to keep records by means of a complex system of knots tied in the strands.
América Precolombina
The upstairs rooms hold works from around Latin America, arranged geographically. Many of the best items are grouped together in room 1, Obras Maestras (master works), including a beautifully worked Aztec ear ornament of pure gold, one of the few Aztec relics to escape being melted down by the Spanish conquistadores, and a huge bas-relief carving of a Mayan armed warrior with two small figures at his feet.
One of the most startling pieces in the collection is found in the Mesoamérica section (corresponding to present-day Mexico and central America) – a statue of Xipé-Totec. This god of spring is represented as a man covered in the skin of a monkey, exposing both male and female genitalia. At the time of the Spanish conquest, the cult of Xipé-Totec was widespread through the region, and was celebrated in a bizarre ritual in which a young man would cover himself with the skin of a sacrificial victim and wear it until it rotted off, revealing his young, fresh skin and symbolizing the growth of new vegetation from the earth.
In the Area Intermedia, covering what is now Ecuador, Colombia, and central America, look out for wonderful coca-leaf-chewing figures known as coqueros, carved with a telltale lump in their mouth by the Capulí culture. The collection’s best textiles, meanwhile, are preserved in the cool environment of the Sala Textil, illuminated by motion-sensitive lighting. Hanging here is a fragment of painted cloth depicting three human figures with fanged jaws. The oldest textile in the museum, it was produced by the Chavín culture almost three thousand years ago, and is still in astonishingly good condition.
Ahumada
One of the city’s busiest pedestrian thoroughfares, Ahumada, runs south from the west side of the Plaza de Armas to the Alameda. Walking down, you’ll pass sombre doorways leading into labyrinthine shopping arcades, confiterías and, between Agustinas and Moneda, the famous Café Caribe and Café Haiti. Take a moment to pop into the Banco de Chile, between Huérfanos and Agustinas; its vast hall, polished counters and beautiful old clock have barely changed since the bank opened in 1925.
Huérfanos and around
One of the city’s busiest pedestrian streets, Huérfanos crosses Ahumada at right angles, one block south of the plaza, and is lined with numerous banks and cinemas. Several places of interest are dotted among the shops, office blocks and galerías of the surrounding streets.
Basílica de la Merced
Mac Iver 341 • Mon–Fri 10am–6pm • Free
The Basílica de la Merced is a towering, Neo-Renaissance structure just off Huérfanos, on the corner of Merced and MacIver, with a beautifully carved eighteenth-century pulpit. Attached to the church is a small museum, closed for restoration at time of writing, which houses a collection of Easter Island artefacts, including a wooden rongo rongo tablet, carved in the undeciphered Easter Island script – one of just 29 left in the world.
Teatro Municipal
Agustinas 749 • 800 471000, municipal.cl
A splendid French-style Neoclassical building, the Teatro Municipal boasts a dazzling white facade of arches, columns and perfect symmetry. This has been the capital’s most prestigious ballet, opera and classical music venue since its inauguration in 1857. It’s worth asking to have a look around inside; the main auditorium is quite a sight, with its sumptuous red upholstery and crystal chandeliers.
Palacio Subercaseaux
Agustinas 741 • Not open to the public
Opposite the Teatro Municipal, and in the same French Neoclassical style, is the Palacio Subercaseaux, topped with a fine mansard roof. It was built at the beginning of the twentieth century for the Subercaseaux, one of the country’s wealthiest families, after they had lived in Paris for twenty years, and it is said that Señora Subercaseaux would only agree to return to Santiago if her window looked out on to the Teatro Municipal. Today it is used by banks and the airforce officers’ club.
Iglesia de San Agustín
Agustinas and Estado • Daily 8am–8pm • Free
The yellow church of San Agustín dates from 1608 but has been extensively rebuilt since then. The chief interest within its highly decorative interior is the wooden carving of Christ, just left of the main altar as you face it.
THE LEGEND OF THE SLIPPING CROWN
Known as the Cristo de Mayo, the wooden carving of Christ in the Iglesia de San Augustín is the subject of an intriguing local legend. The story goes that the crown of thorns around the figure’s head slipped down to its neck during the 1647 earthquake, and that when someone tried to move the crown back up to its head, the carved face of Christ began to bleed. For this reason, the crown has remained untouched ever since, still hanging around the neck.
Galeria Cultural Codelco
Huérfanos 1270 • Mon–Fri 9am–6pm • Free
Copper is everywhere in the gleaming, appropriately burnished headquarters of the Corporacion Nacional del Cobre de Chile, usually known simply as Codelco. The company – by far the world’s largest producer of copper – was nationalised by Allende in the 1970s. A cash cow for the Chilean government ever since, even the most pro-free market politicians have not seriously attempted to return it to private hands. The facade of the building has copper panels, the door handles are made with anti-microbial copper, and the metal lines the interior walls. Inside, a small gallery open to the public offers changing exhibitions, usually themed on a slightly odd mixture of community outreach and – yes – copper.
Palacio de la Moneda and around
The presidential palace La Moneda, which can be approached either via the Alameda or the vast Plaza de la Constitución, is at the heart of the centro cívico, Chile’s political centre. Ministers and their aides hurry back and forth between the ministry buildings in the area and the palace, while on the south side of La Moneda the newly landscaped Plaza de la Ciudadanía gives access to an underground cultural centre.
Palacio de La Moneda
Plaza de la Ciudadanía 26 • Guided visits four times
daily, reserve in advance at 
visitas@presidencia.cl;
changing of the guard on alternate days, 10am on weekdays and 11am at
weekends • Free, but bring your passport for identification
One of Chile’s best-known buildings, the perfect symmetry and compact elegance of the Palacio de La Moneda is spread across the entire block. The low-lying Neoclassical presidential palace was built between 1784 and 1805 by the celebrated Italian architect Joaquín Toesca for the purpose of housing the royal mint (hence the name La Moneda – literally, ‘the coin’). After some forty years it became the residential palace for the presidents of Chile, starting with Manuel Bulnes in 1848 and ending with Carlos Ibáñez del Campo in 1958. At this point it stopped being used as the president’s home, but it continues to be the official seat of government. On September 11, 1973, President Salvador Allende committed suicide in his office in La Moneda rather than surrender to the encroaching military, and photos of the airforce strafing the palace as Pinochet’s coup closed in became among the most defining images of those troubled years.
Plaza de la Constitución
The Plaza de la Constitución is surrounded by other important institutions, including the central bank, the foreign ministry and the finance ministry. In front of the justice ministry in the southeast corner of the square is one of Chile’s few monuments to Allende, with his arm outstretched.
Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda
Plaza de la Ciudadanía 26 • Daily 9am–9pm, exhibitions
9am–6.30pm • CH$5000, half price Mon–Fri before noon • 2 2355
6500, ccplm.cl
The Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda, on the Alameda side of the Palacio de la Moneda, opened in 2006 as an early part of Chile’s 2010 bicentennial celebrations. This flagship underground art gallery and cultural space has a huge modernist concrete central hall, which houses ever-changing exhibitions. The permanent displays in the adjacent galleries feature an eclectic array of artwork, jewellery, pottery, textiles and photography from across Chile (none of the exhibits is captioned in English). There’s also an art cinema, film archive, craft store, bookshop, Confitería Torres branch, restaurant and café.
Along the Alameda
Officially the Avenida del Libertador General Bernardo O’Higgins, Santiago’s most vital east–west artery is universally known as the Alameda, a term used to describe a poplar-lined avenue used for strolling and recreation, and found in many Latin American cities. This one began life as La Cañada (or “channel”), when a branch of the Mapocho was sealed off shortly before independence, and a roadway was created over the old riverbed. A few years later, when the Supreme Director Bernardo O’Higgins decided that Santiago required an alameda, La Cañada was deemed the best place to put it: “There is no public boulevard where people may get together for honest relief and amusement during the resting hours, since the one known as Tajamar, because of its narrowness and irregularity, far from being cheerful, inspires sadness. La Cañada, because of its condition, extension, abundance of water and other circumstances, is the most apparent place for an alameda.” Three rows of poplars were promptly planted along each side, and the Alameda was born, soon to become the place to take the evening promenade.
Since those quieter times the boulevard has evolved into the city’s biggest, busiest, noisiest and most polluted thoroughfare. Still, it’s an unavoidable axis and you’ll probably spend a fair bit of time on it or under it: the main metro line runs beneath it, and some of Santiago’s most interesting landmarks stand along it.
Cerro Santa Lucía and around
The lushly forested Cerro Santa Lucía is Santiago’s most imaginative and exuberant piece of landscaping. Looking at it now, it’s hard to believe that for the first three centuries of the city’s development this was nothing more than a barren, rocky outcrop, completely ignored despite its historical importance – it was at the foot of this hill that Santiago was officially founded by Valdivia, on February 12, 1541. It wasn’t until 1872 that the city turned its attention to Santa Lucía once more, when the mayor of Santiago, Vicuña Mackenna, enlisted the labour of 150 prisoners to transform it into a grand public park.
Quasi-Gaudíesque in appearance, with swirling pathways and Baroque terraces and turrets, this is a great place to come for panoramic views across the city. If slogging up the steps doesn’t appeal, use the free lift on the western side of the park, by the junction with Huérfanos (erratic opening hours). While it’s busy and safe by day, muggings have been reported in the Cerro Santa Lucía after dark.
Immediately west of the hill stands the massive Biblioteca Nacional (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–2pm), one of Latin America’s largest libraries, with temporary exhibitions of rather specialist interest and free-to-use computers with internet.
Barrio Lastarria
Just east of Cerro Santa Lucía, set back from the Alameda, is the quiet, arty Barrio Lastarria neighbourhood, centred on the small, cobbled Plaza Mulato Gil, at the corner of Merced and Lastarria. As well as artists’ workshops, galleries, and bookshops, the neighbourhood is well known for its sparkling restaurant and bar scene.
Centro Gabriela Mistral
Av O’Higgins 227 • Exhibitions Tues–Sat 10am–9pm,
Sun 11am–8pm • Free • 2 2566 5500, gam.cl
Named after famous Chilean poet Gabriela Mistral, this enormous arts centre – usually referred to as GAM – was an exciting new addition to Santiago’s burgeoning cultural scene when it was opened in 2010. Its ten large, airy halls show off the best of Chile’s art, literature, music and dance, while its plazas house contemporary sculptures, many relating to Chilean themes such as copper or the Mapuche. There’s also an onsite wine shop, bookshop and antiques fair (fair Wed–Sun 11am–8pm).
Museo de Artes Visuales
José Victorino Lastarria 307 • Tues–Sun
10.30am–6.30pm • CH$1000, Sun free • 2 2638 3502
The Museo de Artes Visuales in the centre of Lastarria features some of the best new sculptures, painting and photography by Chile’s emerging artists. It also houses the small but well-stocked Museo Arqueológico de Santiago (same hours and entry fee), with hats, bags, jewellery, baskets and other items from all over the country.
Iglesia San Francisco
Av O’Higgins 834 • Daily 8am–8pm • Free
The red Iglesia San Francisco is Santiago’s oldest building, erected between 1586 and 1628. Take a look inside at the Virgen del Socorro, a small polychrome carving (rather lost in the vast main altar) brought to Chile on the saddle of Pedro de Valdivia in 1540 and credited with guiding him on his way, as well as fending off Indian attackers by throwing sand in their eyes. For all its age and beauty, the most remarkable feature of this church is its deep, hushed silence; you’re just metres from the din of the Alameda but the traffic seems a million miles away.
Museo Colonial
Londres 4 • Mon–Fri 9.30am–1.30pm & 3–6pm, Sat
& Sun 10am–2pm • CH$1000 • museosanfrancisco.com
The monastery adjacent to the Iglesia San Francisco houses the Museo Colonial, which has a highly evocative collection of paintings, sculpture, furniture, keys and other objects dating from the colonial period, most of it religious and a good deal of it created in Peru, the seat of colonial government. Note the immense eighteenth-century cedar door of the first room you come to off the cloisters; carved into hundreds of intricately designed squares, this is one of the museum’s most beautiful possessions. On the other side of the cloisters, across a peaceful, palm-filled garden, the Gran Sala hosts another highlight – an astonishing 54 paintings of the life of St Francis of Assissi. Dating from the seventeenth century, the paintings were all done by the Cuzco school in Peru, colonial South America’s foremost art movement, who combined colourful religious imagery with indigenous motifs.
Barrio París-Londres
Formed where Calle Londres intersects Calle París, Barrio París-Londres is tucked behind the Iglesia San Francisco on what used to be the monastery’s orchards. These sinuous, cobbled streets lined with refurbished mansions, stylish hotels and busy hostels, look like a tiny piece of Paris’s Latin Quarter. Created in 1923 by a team of architects, the barrio is undeniably attractive but feels incongruous to its surroundings. There is, however, a dark side to the area, at Londres 38.
Londres 38
Londres 38 • Tues–Fri 10am–1pm & 3–6pm, Sat
10am–2pm; guided tours Mon–Fri noon & 4pm, Sat noon • Free entry
& tour • 2 2325 0374, londres38.cl
Londres 38, the seemingly innocuous building at Calle Londres 38 was one of the four main torture and detention centres in Santiago during the Pinochet dictatorship – and the only one not subsequently destroyed. Between September 1973 and September 1974, 96 people – considered opponents of the dictatorship – were killed here by the Dirección de Inteligencia Nacional (DINA). After a long battle by survivors, victims’ families and human rights groups, the building was taken over and opened to the public in an effort to highlight the grave human rights abuses of the Pinochet years and the ongoing fight for justice. As well as displays on the building’s history, Londres 38 also serves as a space for exhibitions, workshops and talks.
Universidad de Chile and around
West of Barrio París-Londres, on the Alameda, is the Universidad de Chile, a fine French Neoclassical building dating from 1863. Opposite is the Bolsa de Comercio, Santiago’s stock exchange, housed in a flamboyant, French Renaissance-style building that tapers to a thin wedge at the main entrance. One block further along you reach Plaza Bulnes, flanked by the tomb and massive equestrian statue of Bernardo O’Higgins to the south, and to the north by the grey stone outline of the Palacio de la Moneda, sitting with its back to the Alameda. Just west of here is a 128m telecommunications tower, known as the Torre Entel, the focus of New Year’s Eve fireworks displays.
South of the Alameda
South of downtown, along line two on the metro, there’s a clutch of interesting sights, including one of the best of Santiago’s nineteenth-century French-style palaces, and, in a very different vein, a park that is a popular excursion for the city’s more down-at-heel classes.
Palacio Cousiño
Dieciocho 438 • Closed for renovation at time of writing
The Palacio Cousiño was the most magnificent of the historic palaces that lie south of the Alameda, the one that dazzled Santiago’s high society by the sheer scale of its luxury and opulence. It was built between 1870 and 1878 for Doña Isidora Goyenechea, the widow of Luis Cousiño, who had amassed a fortune with his coal and silver mines. All the furnishings and decoration were shipped over from Europe, especially France, and top European craftsmen were brought here to work on the house: Italian hand-painted tiles; Bohemian crystal chandeliers; mahogany, walnut and ebony parquet floors; a mosaic marble staircase; and French brocade and silk furnishings are just a few of the splendours of the palace. Damaged in the 2010 earthquake, it is not clear when it will reopen to visitors.
PALACIOS OF THE ALAMEDA
Walk west of Torre Entel along the Alameda and you enter what was once the preserve of Santiago’s moneyed elite, with several glorious mansions built around 1900 serving as reminders. The first to look out for is the French-style Palacio Irarrázaval, on the south side of the Alameda between San Ignacio and Dieciocho; built in 1906 by Cruz Montt, it now houses an old-fashioned restaurant. Adjoining it at the corner of Dieciocho, the slightly later and more ornate Edificio Iñíguez, by the same architect in league with Larraín Bravo, houses Confitería Torres, said to be where the “national” sandwich, the Barros Luco, was invented in honour of a leading politician.
Then check out the 1917 Palacio Ariztía, being remodelled as the future home of Chile’s constitutional court, a little further on in the next block; a fine copy of an Art Nouveau French mansion, again by Cruz Montt, it is set off by an iron-and-glass door canopy. Next door, the late-nineteenth-century Palacio Errázuriz, is the oldest of these Alameda mansions. It’s looking a little sad these days, but its owners and previous occupants the Brazilian embassy have promised restoration work and plan to move back in once they’re finished. Built for Maximiano Errázuriz, mining mogul and leading socialite, it is a soberly elegant two-storey building in a Neoclassical style. You’re now standing opposite the triumphant Monumento a los Héroes de la Concepción, an imposing statue which borders the junction of the Alameda with the Avenida Norte Sur (the Panamericana); this is where metro Lines #1 and #2 intersect at Los Héroes station.
Parque Bernardo O’Higgins
Three blocks from 
Parque O’Higgins
Perhaps the best reason to come to Parque
Bernardo O’Higgins, a few blocks southwest of Palacio
Cousiño, is to soak up the Chilean family atmosphere, as it’s one of the
most popular green spaces in the city. It was originally the Parque
Cousiño, commissioned by Luis Cousiño, the entrepreneurial millionaire,
in 1869, and the place to take your carriage rides in the late
nineteenth century. These days working-class families and groups of kids
flock here on summer weekends to enjoy the picnic areas, outdoor pools
(very crowded), roller rink, basketball court, gut-churning rides of
amusement park Fantasilandia (www.fantasilandia.cl), and concert venue Movistar Arena (movistararena.cl). There
is also El Pueblito, a collection of
adobe buildings typical of the Chilean countryside and housing several
cheap restaurants, some craft stalls and a handful of small
museums.
The western neighbourhoods
West of Los Héroes, the Alameda continues through the once-wealthy neighbourhoods abandoned by Santiago’s well-heeled residents a few decades ago, when the moneyed classes shifted to the more fashionable east side of town. After falling into serious decline, these areas are finally coming into their own again, as a younger generation has started renovating decaying mansions, opening up trendy cafés and bookshops and injecting a new vigour into the streets.
Barrios Concha y Toro, Brasil and Yungay
One of the most beautiful neighbourhoods on the northern side of the Alameda, between Avenidas Brasil and Ricardo Cumming, is Barrio Concha y Toro, a jumble of twisting cobbled streets leading to a tiny round plaza with a fountain in the middle. Further north you’ll find Barrio Brasil, one of the liveliest of the newly revived neighbourhoods, centred on the large, grand Plaza Brasil, full of children playing at the amusing cement sculpture playground and among the old silk-cotton and lime trees. Bordering Barrio Brasil to the west and stretching over to Parque Quinta Normal, Barrio Yungay has a growing number of bohemian restaurants and bars, many housed in attractively crumbling buildings.
Estación Central
Twelve blocks west of Plaza Brasil stands one of the Alameda’s great landmarks: the stately Estación Central, featuring a colossal metal roof that was cast in the Schneider-Creusot foundry in France in 1896. It’s the only functioning train station left in the city, with regular services to the south.
Parque Quinta Normal and around
Parque Quinta Normal is perhaps the most elegant and peaceful of Santiago’s parks, created in 1830 as a place to introduce and acclimatize foreign trees and plants to the city. Today the park is packed with some beautifully mature examples: Babylonian willows, Monterey pine, cypress, Douglas fir and poplars, to name just a few. Additional attractions include a pond with rowing boats for hire, and several museums. Often deserted during the week, the park is packed on summer weekends.
Museo de Historia Natural
Parque Quinta Normal • Tues–Sat 10am–5.30pm, Sun
11am–5.30pm • Free • 2 2680 4600, mnhn.cl
The grand, Neoclassical building near the entrance of Parque Quinta Normal houses the Museo de Historia Natural. Founded in 1830 and occupying its present building since 1875, this is Latin America’s oldest natural history museum and still one of the most important. It has a colossal blue whale skeleton, and an Easter Island collection that features a moai, an upturned topknot or hat, and the famous Santiago Staff, inscribed with the mysterious, undeciphered rongo rongo script.
Museo Artequín
Av Portales 3530 • Tues–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun
11am–6pm • CH$800, free Sun • 2 2681 8656, artequin.cl
The wildly colourful glass and metal building standing opposite Parque Quinta Normal’s Avenida Portales entrance was originally the Chilean pavilion in the Universal Exhibition in Paris, 1889. It now contains the engaging Museo Artequín – short for Arte en la Quinta – which aims to bring people, especially schoolchildren, closer to art by exposing them to reproductions of the world’s greatest paintings in a relaxed, less intimidating environment. They’re all here, from El Greco and Delacroix through to Andy Warhol and Jackson Pollock.
Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos
Matucama 501 • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • Free • 2
2365 1165, museodelamemoria.cl
The Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos (Museum of Memory and Human Rights), housed in an large, eye-catching glass building just outside Parque Quinta Normal, is dedicated to the victims of human rights abuses during the years of the Pinochet dictatorship, a period in which an estimated three thousand people were killed or “disappeared”, and thousands more tortured, detained or sent into exile, including current President Michelle Bachelet. Opened in 2010 at the time of Chile’s bicentennial, the museum houses a powerful combination of multimedia displays, exhibits, photos, art, poetry and literature to tell the story of the military coup and its enduring impact. Exhibits include moving eyewitness accounts, TV footage from the time, and heartbreaking letters and personal items belonging to junta victims. Although a knowledge of Spanish and recent history is useful in understanding some of the archive material, it is not essential. A sight not to be missed.
Mercado Central and around
Puente and San Pablo • Daily 7am–5/6pm • Free
The Mercado Cental is situated close to the southern bank of the Río Mapocho. This huge metal structure, prefabricated in England and erected in Santiago in 1868, contains a very picturesque fruit, vegetable and fish market. The highlight is the fish stalls, packed with glistening eels, sharks and salmon, buckets of oysters, mussels and clams, and unidentifiable shells out of which live things with tentacles make occasional appearances. The best time to come here is at lunchtime, when you can feast at one of the many fish restaurants dotted around the market; the cheapest and most authentic are on the outer edge, while those in the centre are touristy and pricier. Keep an eye on your belongings, as pickpockets are not unknown here.
Feria Municipal La Vega
Antonio López de Bello and Salas • Mon–Sat 5.30am–6pm, Sun 6am–3pm • Free
The gargantuan Feria Municipal La Vega is a couple of blocks back from the riverbank opposite the Mercado Central. There’s no pretty architecture here, and few tourists; just serious shoppers and hundreds of stalls selling the whole gamut of Central Valley produce, from cows’ innards and pigs’ bellies to mountains of potatoes and onions, at a fraction of the price charged in the Mercado Central. There is also a gallery of economical seafood restaurants, popular with locals and rarely visited by tourists. Few have alcohol licences, but if you ask for an “iced tea” (“te helado”) you’ll be served either white wine in a Sprite bottle or red wine in a Coca-Cola bottle.
Estación Mapocho
Just west of the Mercado Central, right by the river, is the immense stone and metal Estación Mapocho, built in 1912 to house the terminal of the Valparaíso–Santiago railway line. With the train service long discontinued, the station is now a cultural centre, housing exhibitions, plays and concerts. Take a look inside at the great copper, glass and marble roof. One of the continent’s most important book fairs is also held here in November, the Feria Nacional del Libro.
Parque Forestal
The Parque Forestal, stretching along the southern bank of the Mapocho between Puente Recoleta and Puente Pío Nono, was created at the end of the nineteenth century on land that was reclaimed from the river after it was channelled. Lined with long rows of trees and lampposts, it provides a picturesque setting for the Palacio de Bellas Artes, built to commemorate the centenary of Chilean independence. The funky restaurant and bar scene of Barrio Lastarria backs on to this area, now sometimes referred to as Barrio Bellas Artes.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Both museums: Parque Forestal s/n • Tues–Sun
10am–6.50pm • Free • mnba.cl •
Bellas Arte is close to the
museums; on foot it is an easy walk from downtown
The Palacio de Bellas Artes houses the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, featuring predominantly Chilean works from the beginning of the colonial period onwards. The quality of the work is mixed, and none of the paintings equals the beauty of the building’s vast white hall with its marble statues bathing in the natural light pouring in from the glass-and-iron ceiling. The works on display change frequently, but look out for the surrealist paintings of Chilean master Roberto Matta and the close-up portrait photos of Jorge Brantmayer. The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, accessed from the other side of the building, hosts temporary exhibitions focused on international or Chilean contemporary artists.
Barrio Bellavista
There’s no metro in Bellavista itself, but it’s a short
walk from Baquedano
Originally – and sometimes still – known as La Chimba, which means “the other side of the river” in Quechua (Inca language), Barrio Bellavista grew first into a residential area when Santiago’s population started spilling across the river in the nineteenth century. Head across the Pío Nono bridge at the eastern end of the Parque Forestal and you’ll find yourself on Calle Pío Nono, Bellavista’s main street. Nestling between the northern bank of the Mapocho and the steep slopes of Cerro San Cristóbal, Bellavista is a warren of leafy streets and a centre for restaurants, bars and pubs. A popular night-time destination for both locals and visitors, the neighbourhood has a slightly edgy feel; it is generally safe, but it is wise to stay on your guard after dark. An evening handicraft market that spreads along the length of Pío Nono is held at weekends.
You might also be tempted by the dozens of lapis lazuli outlets running along Avenida Bellavista, between Puente Pío Nono and Puente del Arzobispo, though there are few bargains to be found. Patio Bellavista, Pío Nono 73, is a shopping and dining complex – and a popular gringo hangout.
La Chascona
Marquéz de la Plata 192 • Jan & Feb Tues–Sun
10am–7pm; March–Dec Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • CH$5000 • 2 2737
8712, fundacionneruda.org
Tucked away in a tiny street at the foot of Cerro San Cristóbal is La Chascona, the house the poet Pablo Neruda shared with his third wife, Matilde Urrutia, from 1955 until his death in 1973. It was named La Chascona (“tangle-haired woman”) by Neruda, as a tribute to his wife’s thick red hair. Today it’s the headquarters of the Fundación Neruda, which has painstakingly restored this and the poet’s two other houses – La Sebastiana in Valparaíso and Isla Negra, about 90km down the coast – to their original condition, opening them to the public. The ticket price includes a worthwhile self-guided audio tour, available in English.
This house, split into three separate sections that climb up the hillside, is packed to the rafters with objects collected by Neruda, illuminating his loves, enthusiasms and obsessions. Beautiful African carvings jostle for space with Victorian dolls, music boxes, paperweights and coloured glasses; the floors are littered with old armchairs, stools, a rocking horse, exotic rugs and a sleeping toy lion. There are numerous references to Neruda’s and Matilde’s love for each other, such as the bars on the windows, in which their initials are entwined and lapped by breaking waves, and the portrait of Matilde by Diego Rivera, which has the profile of Neruda hidden in her hair. The third and highest level houses Neruda’s library, containing more than nine thousand books, as well as the diploma he was given when awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1971, and a replica of the medal.
Cerro San Cristóbal
Funicular Mon 1–7pm, Tues–Sun 10am–7pm • CH$2000 return weekday, CH$2600 return weekend
A trip to the summit of Cerro San Cristóbal – which includes parkland, botanical gardens, a dismal zoo and two swimming pools – is one of the city’s highlights, particularly on a clear, sunny day when the views are stunning. The hill is, in fact, an Andean spur, jutting into the capital’s heart and rising to a peak of 860m, a point marked by a 22m-high statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada. The easiest way to get up is via the funicular from the station at the north end of Pío Nono in Bellavista, which takes you via the zoo up to the Terraza Bellavista, where there are a handful of food and craft stalls. From here it’s a short but steep walk up to the huge white Virgin, where you’ll be rewarded with fine views over Santiago’s suburbs vanishing into hazy mountains. If you are fortunate enough to be in Santiago after a rain in the winter, this view includes rows of snowy mountain peaks. Trails wind through the woods to the base of the hill if you prefer a little exercise on the way up or down.
Piscina Tupahue and Piscina Antilén
Av Alberto Mackenna s/n • Mid-Nov to mid-March Tues–Sun 10am–7.30pm • CH$6000–7500 • You can walk from the Terraza Bellavista, take a taxi from the bottom of the hill, or at weekends hop on a free shuttle bus
For an afternoon picnic and swimming in the summer months, there is no better place in Santiago than the two huge pools atop the Cerro San Cristóbal. The jointly run Piscina Tupahue and Piscina Antilén offer cool, clean swimming and, at 736m above the city, wonderful views.
TREKS AROUND SANTIAGO
On a clear day, the mountains look so close to Santiago you feel as if you
could reach out and touch them, and indeed it doesn’t take long to reach at
least the foothills if you want a walk that’s a bit more challenging than
Cerro San Cristóbal without leaving town. Treks into
the precordillera pretty much all involve an upward climb – but
will quickly reward you with fantastic views over the city and beyond (wear
shoes with good grip). Within the confines of Santiago, Cerro Manquehue is an extinct volcano, whose
woodcut-worthy cone towers over the barrios altos.
It’s a stiff but rewarding hike to the top (5hr return) – the path begins
near the end of a road called Via Roja, which twists and turns up the
fringes of Vitacura (nearest metro is Manquehue; from there you’ll need to
take a taxi). Skirting the eastern edge of the city, a chain of nature
reserves (
asociacionparquecordillera.cl) takes you further up into the
Andes proper. The pick of these parks is probably Aguas de Ramón (winter daily 8am–5pm, summer 8am–6.30pm;
CH$1500), whose main route heads towards a river and series of small
waterfalls. The park entrance is in Onofre Jarpa, in the neighbourhood of La
Reina – the nearest metro is Príncipe de Gales, from where you can catch a
taxi.
Los barrios altos
The barrios east of the city centre spreading into the foothills of the Andes are home to Santiago’s moneyed elite; the farther and higher you get, the richer the people, the bigger the houses and the higher the gates. It’s hard to believe that up until the beginning of the twentieth century there was virtually no one here; it was for its isolation and tranquillity that the Sisters of Providencia chose to build their convent on what is now Avenida Providencia in 1853. Later, following a slow trickle of eastbound movement, there was a great exodus of wealthy families from their traditional preserves west of the city over to the new barrio alto in the 1920s, where they’ve been entrenched ever since. The parallel street running in the other direction from Avenida Providencia was originally called Avenida Nueva Providencia but was renamed Avenida 11 de Septiembre under the dictatorship to commemorate the date of the 1973 military coup; it is in the process of being changed back to its original name.
Providencia
Northeast of the city centre, Providencia has little in the way of sights as such, but is home to hotels, restaurants and travel agencies. Away from the main drags, you’ll find attractive tree-lined streets, stylish stores and elegant cafés. At its eastern edge, around the border with Las Condes, a cluster of skyscrapers, offices and restaurants make up the buzzing financial and dining district nicknamed ‘Sanhattan’, site of some of the most expensive real estate in Chile. Dominating the area, and indeed the entire Santiago skyline, is the 300m-high Gran Torre Santiago, Latin America’s tallest skyscraper, designed by Argentine architect Cesar Pelli. With stunning views promised from the top when it is finished in 2015, it will be used mainly for offices, part of a complex that includes the equally enormous Costanera Center shopping mall.
Las Condes
As you head east from Providencia towards Las Condes, the shops and office blocks gradually thin out into a more residential district, punctuated with the occasional giant shopping mall, such as Alto Las Condes.
Pueblito de los Dominicos
Apoquindo 9085 • Daily 10am–8pm • Near Los Dominicos
The best collection of arts and crafts in Santiago is found at the Pueblito de los Dominicos market, a large, lively and expensive craft fair. Held in a mock village in Las Condes, the market sits in the shadow of the lovely white Iglesia de los Dominicos, topped with greening copper cupolas, which looks colonial but was built by Dominican monks in the nineteenth century. The market hosts a wide range of beautiful handicrafts, as well as antiques, books, fossil shark teeth, a decent restaurant, and a quiet respite from the noise and grime of the city.
Museo de la Moda
Av Vitacura 4562 • Tues–Sun10am–6pm • CH$3000 •
2 2219 3623, museodelamoda.cl •
Bus #112, #425, #425e, #419e or #C22 from Escuela Militar
The Museo de la Moda is an essential stop-off for fashionistas, with a collection of over ten thousand exhibits, dating from the fifth century BC to the present day. Dresses worn by Princess Diana and Marilyn Monroe, Madonna’s bra from her Blond Ambition tour, and Diego Maradona’s football boots, are among the items held in the collection, although not all may be on display at any one time.
Parque Araucano
Presidente Riesco 5555 • Park Tues–Sun 9am–9pm •
Free • 20min walk or taxi from Escuela Militar
Right opposite the Parque
Arauco shopping mall, this
is a particularly lovely park to wander
around, clean and well tended, with a rose garden and fountains.
It’s also a good place to come if you have youngsters to entertain,
with a couple of attractions in the park aimed at children or the
young at heart (note that they get very crowded at weekends and
holiday times). Selva Viva (Mon–Fri
9am–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; CH$9950; 2 2944
6300, selvaviva.cl) is a hot and humid ‘jungle’ space, where
butterflies and parrots fly overhead and you can stroke snakes,
iguanas and toucans. KidZania
(Tues–Fri 9am–2pm & 3–8pm, Sat & Sun 11am–7pm; adults
CH$7450, children CH$11,950; 2 2964 4000, kidzania.cl) allows
children to learn about different professions in a hands-on way,
operating on ‘patients’, making sushi or sitting in a real plane
cockpit.
Peñalolén
On Santiago’s outskirts, southwest of Las Condes, is Peñalolén. This mostly lower middle-class neighbourhood was the site of Villa Grimaldi, one of the main torture and interrogation centres during the Pinochet years.
Parque por la Paz Villa Grimaldi
Av José Arrieta 8401, Peñalolén • Daily 10am–6pm;
guided visits Tues–Fri 10.30am, noon & 3pm • Free entry &
tour • 2 2292 5229 • Bus #513 or #D09 from Plaza Egaña
From mid-1974 to mid-1978, Villa Grimaldi – a privately owned country house that was taken over by the secret police – was used for the torture of those deemed political opponents of the Pinochet regime. Around five thousand people were detained here; at least 240 were killed. The buildings have since been knocked down, and the grounds turned into the Parque por la Paz Villa Grimaldi (Peace Park Villa Grimaldi), with a series of monuments that include a wall listing names of victims and a recreation of the huts prisoners were kept in. The park now serves as both a memorial to the victims and to educate future generations about the dictatorship. Bilingual audioguides are available.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: SANTIAGO
Santiago is one of the easiest and least intimidating South American capitals to arrive in. Connections from the airport and bus terminals to the city centre are frequent and straightforward, and while you should take normal precautions, you’re unlikely to be hassled or feel threatened while you’re finding your feet.
BY PLANE
Aeropuerto Arturo Merino Benítez International and domestic flights arrive at Arturo Merino
Benítez airport in Pudahuel (the commune the airport is
sometimes named after; 2 2690 1752, aeropuertosantiago.cl), 26km northwest of Santiago.
The smart international terminal has a tourist information desk,
bureau de change (rates are fairly poor) and ATMs. There are
flights from here throughout Chile and South America; most are
operated by LAN (central office Av Providencia 2006 600
526 2000, lan.com).
By bus The cheapest way to get between the airport and the city
centre is by bus. Centropuerto (daily 6am–11.30pm; every 10min;
CH$1450) drops you off or picks you up at Los Héroes metro
station, while Tur Bus (daily 5am–midnight every 20min,
midnight–5am hourly; CH$1500) uses the Terminal de Buses
Alameda. Minibus firms such as TransVIP
(2 2677 3000, www.transvip.cl),
operating from the row of desks by the airport exit, offer
door-to-door services from the airport to your hotel, charging
around CH$7000 per person. You have to wait around until the bus
is full, and you’ll probably get an unwanted city tour as other
passengers are dropped off before you reach your own
hotel.
By taxi By the airport exit there’s a desk where you can book official airport taxis, which cost around CH$20,000 to the city centre. If you bargain with the private taxi drivers touting for business, you can usually pay less, but taking these taxis is at your own risk. Returning to the airport, the taxis charge a few thousand pesos less – it’s a good idea to book a radiotaxi ahead.
By car There are a number of car rental booths at the airport,
including Avis (2 2795 3971, avis.com), Rosselot (rosselot.cl) and
Dollar (dollar.com).
Destinations Antofagasta (15 daily; 2hr); Arica (3 daily; 2hr 40min); Calama (10 daily; 2hr); Concepcíon (9 daily; 1hr); Copiapó (5 daily; 1hr 30min); Easter Island (1 daily; 5hr 40min); Iquique (12 daily; 2hr 30min); La Serena (7 daily; 1hr); Osorno (1 daily; 1hr 30min); Puerto Montt (12 daily; 1hr 45min); Punta Arenas (5 daily; 3hr 30min); Temuco (7 daily; 1hr 20min); Valdivia (1 daily; 1hr 30 min).
< Back to Arrival and departure
BY BUS
By far the greatest majority of transport services are provided by buses, run by a bewildering number of private companies. These operate out of four main terminals. While you can normally turn up and buy a ticket for travelling the same day, it’s better to get it in advance, especially at weekends. For travel on the days around Christmas, New Year’s Eve, Easter and the September 18 national holiday, you should buy your ticket at least a week ahead.
TERMINAL DE BUSES SANTIAGO
The Terminal de Buses Santiago, also known as Terminal de
Estación Central (2 2376 1750, terminaldebusessantiago.cl), just west of the
Universidad de Santiago metro station, is the largest (and most
chaotic) of the terminals, with more than a hundred bus
companies operating out of here. Services south down the
Panamericana from this terminal are provided by all the major
companies, including Cóndor Bus (2 2680 6900,
condorbus.cl),
Inter Sur (2 2779 6312) and Tas Choapa (2
2779 4694, www.taschoapa.cl). Buses to the coastal resorts of
the Litoral Central are run by Cóndor Bus and Pullman Bus
(2 2779 2026, www.pullman.cl).
Destinations Chillán (20 daily; 5hr); Concepcíon (every 30min; 6hr); Curicó (every 30min; 2hr 45min); Osorno (hourly; 10hr); Puerto Montt (every 30min; 14hr); Talca (every 15min; 3hr 30min); Valdivia (hourly; 11hr).
TERMINAL DE BUSES ALAMEDA
This terminal, just east of the Terminal de Buses Santiago, is
used by Tur Bus (2 2270 7500, www.turbus.cl) and
Pullman Bus, Chile’s largest and most comprehensive bus
companies, going to a wide variety of destinations.
Destinations Valparaíso (every 15min; 1hr 30min–1hr 45min); Viña del Mar (every 15min; 1hr 30min–1hr 45min).
TERMINAL SAN BORJA
San Borja (2 2776 0645) is at the back of a
shopping mall behind the Estación Central (from the metro,
follow the signs carefully to exit at the terminal). This is the
main departure point for buses to the north of Chile. There are
several regional buses, as well, and some services to the
coastal resorts. Bus companies going north include Elqui Bus
(2 2778 7045), Pullman Bus and Tas Choapa.
Tur Bus also runs services to the Litoral.
Destinations Antofagasta (hourly; 19hr); Arica (hourly; 30hr); Calama (hourly; 22hr); Iquique (hourly; 24hr); La Serena (hourly; 6hr 30min).
TERMINAL LOS HÉROES
Los Héroes (2 2420 0099), is located on Tucapel
Jiménez, just north of the Plaza de Los Héroes, near the metro
stop of the same name. It hosts a mixture of northbound,
southbound and buses to destinations in Argentina. The terminal
is used by companies including Buses Ahumada (2 2696
9798, busesahumada.cl), Cruz del Sur (2 2696
9324, www.pullmansur.cl), Libac (2 2698
5974, buseslibac.cl), Pullman del Sur (2 2673
1967, pdelsur.cl) and Tas Choapa.
Destinations Bariloche (several daily; 16hr), Buenos Aires (several daily; 22hr); Mendoza (several daily; 7hr).
< Back to Arrival and departure
BY TRAIN
The only train services are between Santiago and destinations in
the central valley to the south, with all trains departing from the
Estación Central, next to the metro stop of the same name. For train
information, call 600 585 5000 or check www.efe.cl.
Destinations Chillán (2 daily; 5hr 30min); Curicó (3 daily; 2hr 45min); Rancagua (10 daily; 1hr 30min); San Fernando (5 daily; 2hr); Talca (3 daily; 3hr 30min).
GETTING AROUND
You’ll probably spend most time in the city centre, which is entirely
walkable, but for journeys further afield public transport on the
Transantiago network of metro trains and buses is inexpensive, safe and
abundant. You can plan your journey via the website transantiago.cl.
BY METRO
Santiago’s spotless metro system (most lines Mon–Fri 6.30am–11pm,
Sat, Sun & public holidays 8.30am–10.30pm; www.metro.cl) is modern
and efficient, though packed solid at rush hour. Many stations are
decorated with huge murals, and often offer free wi-fi. Fares are
the same regardless of the length of your journey, but vary
according to time of day (CH$590–700). You can buy single-use
tickets from the cashiers, but if you plan on making more than a
couple of trips it’s worth investing in a Tarjeta Bip!, a
magnetic-stripcard (CH$1400), which you load up with credit at
machines or ticket windows; the same card is also used on the
buses.
METRO LINES
Line #1 is the most useful, running east–west under the Alameda and Av Providencia. Line #5 runs parallel to it for part of its length, stopping at the Plaza de Armas and Bellavista. A new Line #3, which was under construction at the time of writing, will cut through the centre north to south. The other lines mostly serve residential barrios, while large chunks of the city, including Vitacura and the airport, are off the network completely.
BY BUS
The bus network doesn’t take cash; instead you have to use a Tarjeta Bip! card. The fare is $620, which lasts up to 2hr with a maximum of two changes. Buses often involve a long wait but are useful for reaching destinations off the metro, or going east or west along the Alameda – as a general rule, buses displaying Estación Central will take you west, while those displaying Providencia or Apoquindo are going east.
BY TAXI
Santiago has more taxis than New York, and in the centre you’ll
have no trouble flagging one down. Taxis are black with yellow roofs
and have a small light in the top right-hand corner of the
windscreen that’s lit to show the cab is available. If you’re going
somewhere out of the way, don’t expect the driver to know it; it’s
best to check where it is beforehand. Radiotaxis (such as
Metropolitana on 2 2506 6595) are a bit less of a
lottery and can be booked beforehand.
FARES
Fares are relatively low and displayed on the window – usually CH$280 when the meter’s started and CH$120 for every 200m; you’re not expected to tip. Drivers are allowed to charge more at night, so try to verbally confirm an estimate to your location. Scams such as drivers taking extra-long routes, and rip-offs on large bills, do happen. Be firm and pay with small notes.
BY COLECTIVO
Santiago’s colectivos (shared taxis) look like ordinary taxis except they’re black all over and cram in as many as four passengers at a time. They travel along fixed routes, mostly from the centre out to the suburbs; a sign on the roof indicates the destination. Plaza Baquedano (usually called Plaza Italia) is the starting point for many colectivo routes. Prices vary along the route, but colectivos generally cost around CH$500.
BY BIKE
The city authorities are expanding the network of cycle lanes in
Santiago, with a 5.6km stretch of road from Quinta Normal to Parque
Forestal through the centre closed to cars every Sunday morning (see
munistgo.info/bicicletas for latest). La Bicicleta Verde,
Loreto 6 (2 2570 9338, labicicletaverde.com), rents good quality bikes (with
helmets) from CH$9000 a day and also offers tours on two
wheels.
INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES
Sernatur has an office at Av Providencia 1550 (Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm; 2 2731
8310, www.sernatur.cl), and a much smaller kiosk at the
airport. It has free booklets on Santiago’s attractions,
accommodation and restaurants, maps, free wi-fi, and staff usually
speak English. The city authorities also have their own tourist
office (Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; 2 2713
6745, turismo@munistgo.cl), on the Plaza
de Armas next to the Museo Histórico Nacional, offering information
on what’s going on as well as free, bilingual walking
tours. There’s a Conaf office at Paseo Bulnes 285 (Mon–Thurs
9.30am–5.30pm, Fri 9.30am–4.30pm; 2 663 0125, conaf.cl).
CROSSING INTO ARGENTINA
The international highway that connects Santiago with Mendoza, capital of Argentina’s wine-growing region, is probably the most popular overland route between the two cross-Andes neighbours. It’s a spectacular journey, and one that you should certainly do by day if possible so as to see the scenery. The border crossing is 7km further on from the Portillo turn off; basic food and drink and money exchange is available on both sides, but be prepared for long queues at passport control and customs, especially at holiday times. On the Argentine side, the Alta Montaña route, with fantastic views of Aconcagua, snakes past mountain villages, sulphur springs and small ski resorts and on into Mendoza. The whole journey takes about six or seven hours, although a busy border crossing can easily pile a couple of hours onto that; buses regularly make the trip in both directions.
TOUR OPERATORS
There are several excellent travel agencies in Santiago offering an eclectic range of tours of the city, the surrounding area, Chile and South America as a whole.
Andina del Sud Av El Golf 99, 2nd floor 2 2388
0144, www.andinadelsud.com. This agency is
good for booking inexpensive domestic and international flights,
and also offers holidays and guided trips throughout Chile and
neighbouring countries aimed at younger travellers (www.turismojoven.cl).
Chile Running Tours 09 9330 6804, chilerunningtours.com. These guided
running tours (from CH$36,000; 10km) are an excellent way to get
a feel for Santiago in a short space of time and keep fit. As
well as several routes in the city (of varying difficulty
levels), they also offer “running and wine tours” in the
Casablanca Valley (you do the tastings at the end).
La Bicicleta Verde Loreto 6 2 2570 9338,
labicicletaverde.com. This well-run
company offers excellent cycling trips, including one that
visits vineyards in the Maipo valley and another that explores
the city by night.
Santiago Adventures Dr Manuel Borros Borgoño 198,
Providencia 2 2244 2750, santiagoadventures.com. A
well-respected, comprehensive agency offering cycle, wine and
city tours, skiing trips and holidays throughout Chile and South
America.
Slow Travel 09 9919 8471, slowtravel.cl. Offers flexible, personalized
wine, food and nature tours in both Chile and Argentina. The
culinary tour of Santiago, which takes in the Central and La
Vega markets, and finishes with a cookery lesson, is highly
recommended.
Turistik Plaza de Armas next to the tourist
office 2 2820 1000, viajesturistik.com. The ubiquitous
Turistik runs bright red buses on a hop-on, hop-off route around
Santiago (daily 9.30am–6pm, every 30min, CH$20,000 for the day),
as well as a range of tours to nearby wineries and ski
resorts.
Uncorked 2 2981 6242, uncorked.cl. Maria and José run premium wine
tours, all in English, to boutique wineries in and around
Santiago (US$195 for day tour with three visits and tastings,
all transfers and lunch included). They also run cooking classes
that are packed with info on Chilean cuisine, and come with the
odd pisco sour (half-day US $95).
ACCOMMODATION
There’s plenty of accommodation to suit most budgets, though really inexpensive places are scarce. Most of the city’s low-cost rooms are small, simple and sparsely furnished, often without a window but usually fairly clean; the many hostels with dorms make a good alternative. There are numerous good mid-range hotels and B&Bs, plus several luxurious top-end options. Apartment hotels are also popular. Prices don’t fluctuate much, though a few hotels charge more between November and February. All prices include breakfast.
HISTORIC CENTRE
East of the Plaza de Armas is the tidier, better-restored section of the historic centre, with the easiest walking access to most of the central attractions. There are some good budget places and many mid- and upper-range options.
Andes Hostel Monjitas 506 2 2632 9990,
andeshostel.com; map. Funky hostel with tidy four-
and six-bed dorms, swish marble bathrooms, a roof terrace, and a
bar area featuring a big-screen TV and a pool table. There are
also private rooms and – in a nearby building – apartments that
sleep three or four. Dorms CH$13,000, doubles CH$48,000, apartments CH$54,000
París 813 París 813 2 2664 0921,
hotelparis813.com; map. Decent low-cost hotel offering
a range of slightly old-fashioned rooms, with TVs and private
bathrooms; the older ones sometimes lack outside windows so
unless pesos are really tight, opt for one in the newer annexe.
CH$26,000
Plaza de Armas Compañía 960, apartment 607 2
2671 4436, plazadearmashostel.com; map. This gem of a hostel, on the
sixth floor of a building hidden within an alleyway filled with
fast-food joints, has a prime location on the Plaza de Armas.
There are bright dorms, colourful if compact private rooms,
ample communal space, and a terrace with fine views. Dorms
CH$10,000, doubles with
private bathroom CH$26,000
Plaza San Francisco Alameda 816 2 2639 3832,
plazasanfrancisco.cl; map. This is the most luxurious
downtown top-end hotel choice: the en suites are large and
handsome with tubs and easy chairs; there’s also an indoor pool,
mini art gallery and quality restaurant. Good online deals.
US$190
Vegas Londres 49 2 2632 2514,
hotelvegas.net; map. A national monument, in the
quiet París-Londres neighbourhood, this hotel is great value,
with spacious en suites, friendly service, and thoughtful
touches like secondhand novels to read and a collection of
umbrellas for use on rainy days. Apartments with small kitchens
also available. Doubles CH$45,000, apartments CH$32,000
BARRO LASTARRIA
Although this lively neighbourhood is focused more on restaurants and bars than hotels, there are a handful of choices and the location is excellent – easy walking distance from the centre and Bellavista, and a bit smarter than both.
Montecarlo Victoria Subercaseaux 209 2 2633
9905, hotelmontecarlo.cl; map. Location is the main selling
point of this hotel: it overlooks Cerro Santa Lucia, and the
Alameda is a couple of blocks away. The building has an unusual
modernist shape, and the small rooms could do with a freshen-up,
but overall it’s a decent choice. CH$64,000
Río Amazonas Vicuňa Mackenna 47 2 2635
1631, hostalrioamazonas.cl; map. Travellers of all ages flock
to this charming hostal, next to the Argentine embassy. Each
room has a private bathroom (and often a bath), colourful decor,
phone, TV and plenty of space. The communal areas are
attractive, and there is a good breakfast. CH$38,000
The Singular Merced 294 2 2306 8821,
thesingular.com; map. Well located in Lastarria,
this new, elegant five-star is an excellent choice. Highlights
include spacious and stylish en suites, a rooftop bar and
swimming pool, well-equipped spa, fine restaurant, and attentive
service. It has an equally impressive sister hotel in Puerto
Natales.
US$261
BARRIO BRASIL
Bohemian Barrio Brasil, to the north of the Alameda, is growing in popularity, thanks to its ever-increasing supply of cool cafés, restaurants and bars.
Happy House Moneda 1829 2 2688 4849,
happyhousehostel.cl; map. Happy House is a cut above most other
hostels. This restored early twentieth-century town house has
stylish six- to eight-bed dorms, beautiful, airy rooms (with
shared or attached bathrooms) that put many mid-range hotels to
shame as well as a bar, terrace and pool table. Dorms CH$20,000, doubles with private
bathroom CH$40,000
Princesa Insolente Moneda 2350 2 2671 6551,
princesainsolentehostel.cl; map. This popular and sociable
hostel has clean and economical private rooms, three- to ten-bed
dorms, TV lounge and patio. The cheerful staff members host
regular barbecues. Dorms CH$7500, doubles CH$35,000
BARRIO BELLAVISTA
Bellavista is within walking distance or a short cab ride from downtown on one side and Providencia on the other, and is a particularly good option if you want to be close to Santiago’s nightlife.
The Aubrey Constitución 317 2 2940
2800, theaubrey.com; map. Nestling beside Cerro San
Cristóbal, with Bellavista’s restaurants and bars just a stone’s
throw away, The Aubrey is based in two
beautifully restored 1920s mansions, and boasts some of
Santiago’s most stylish en suites: swish bathrooms, Tom Dixon
lamps, and docks for MP3 players are just a few of the features.
The hotel also has a pool, piano lounge and a fine restaurant.
US$250
Dominica Hostel Dominica 24 2 2732 7196,
dominicahostel.com; map. In a restored 1920s building,
cabin-style beds afford some privacy as well as large locker
space in eight-bed dorms, and there’s a nice terrace from where
you can enjoy a beer and watch Bellavista in full flow. Popular
with travellers who like to party (the hostel gives out free
entry tickets to nearby discos). Dorms CH$8000, doubles with private bathroom CH$28,000
PROVIDENCIA
As the glitzy commercial heart of Santiago, Providencia has a number of pricey hotels, as well as a range of B&Bs and small mid-range hotels. It’s worth considering basing yourself here if you’d rather avoid the grittier centre; metro line #1 runs along the main Av Providencia.
Chilhotel Cirujano Guzmán 103 2 2264
0643, chilhotel.cl; map. This small hotel, located
on a quiet street in central Providencia, is a good choice. The
rooms are comfortable and good value, though the decor is a bit
twee; all of them come with private bathrooms, TVs and fridges.
CH$43,000
Hotel Orly Pedro de Valdivia 27 2 2231
8947, orlyhotel.com; map. Welcoming and cosy hotel
in the heart of Providencia. The immaculate en suites have wood
fittings, colourful throws, mini fridges and TVs; they can range
quite considerably in size, however, so ask to see a few. The
apartments, which sleep up to four, are good value. Doubles
CH$93,000, apartments
CH$85,000
L’Ambassade Av Suiza 2084 2 2761
9711, ambassade.cl; map. Run by a very welcoming
Franco–Chilean family, this intimate and peaceful boutique
B&B has tasteful en-suite doubles, an artwork-filled lounge,
a small outdoor pool and a sauna. The breakfast is excellent.
CH$78,000
Le Rêve Orrego Luco 23 2 2757
6000, lerevehotel.cl; map. An excellent addition to
Santiago’s luxury accommodation options, Le
Rêve is a welcoming boutique hotel with plenty of
French touches in both the architecture and the furnishings. The
en suites are elegant (though a bit overpriced), and service is
welcoming and efficient. US$260
Vilafranca Pérez Valenzuela 1650 2 2235
1413, vilafranca.cl; map. A charming eight-room
B&B in a 1940s-era home on a peaceful street: each room is
unique and all are supremely tasteful, service is personalized,
black and white photos of historic Santiago cover the walls and
there’s a sunny patio area. CH$49,000
LAS CONDES
Las Condes – and, in particular, Sanhattan – is Santiago’s burgeoning luxury hotel neighbourhood, with large shopping centres and art galleries nearby. The metro goes as far as Los Dominicos and a taxi to the centre runs to about CH$5,000–10,000.
Ritz-Carlton El Alcalde 15 2 2470
8500, ritzcarlton.com; map. One of Santiago’s top
five-stars, Sanhattan’s Ritz-Carlton
has classically styled en suites, attentive but not overbearing
service, excellent restaurants and bars, and a fifteenth-floor
swimming pool, gym and spa sheltered from the elements by a
glass dome. The restaurant zone of Isidora Goyenechea is a short
walk away. US$300
The W Isidora Goyenechea 3000 2 2770
0000, starwoodhotels.com; map. In an eye-catching
skyscraper, The W is a glamorous,
achingly hip hotel. Highlights include the über-modern en suites
with floor-to-ceiling windows, and the rooftop (21st-floor) pool
and bar with superlative views. Service, however, can be
inconsistent. US$430
EATING AND DRINKING
Santiago has a wide range of places to eat, from humble picadas serving traditional favourites to slick modern restaurants offering cuisines such as Japanese, Southeast Asian, Spanish, Peruvian, French and Italian. Some are modestly priced but most are fairly expensive, although at lunchtime many offer a good-value fixed-price menú del día or menú ejecutivo. In most places there’s no need to book. There are also innumerable fast food joints and (generally) unappealing fuentes de soda.
CAFÉS AND CHEAP EATS
Santiago is not a café city, but a number of places cater to the great tradition of onces (afternoon tea). There are also some decent ice-cream parlours and innumerable joints specialising in empanadas.
HISTORIC CENTRE
Blue Jar Almirante Gotuzzo 102 2 2696
1890, bluejar.cl;
map. Just around the corner from La
Moneda, this is where government officials from the nearby
ministry buildings come to gossip about politics and sip
excellent coffees and cocktails. Meals also available (set
lunch CH$10,000). Mon–Fri
8am–9pm.
Café Caribe Ahumada 120 www.cafecaribe.cl; map. Traditional café con piernas where male members of Chile’s
ageing business class stand around for what seems like
hours, ogling the waitresses and talking on their mobile
phones. Coffee from CH$1000. Mon–Fri
8am–9pm.
Café Colonia Mac Iver 161 2 2639
7256, cafecolonia.cl; map. At this cute little café, which
has been going for over fifty years, matronly waitresses
serve the best cakes, tarts, küchen and strudel (all from CH$500 per slice)
in Santiago. Mon–Fri 8am–9pm, Sat
& Sun 10am–8pm.
Café Haiti Ahumada 140; map. Another of the timewarp cafés con piernas but the coffee (from CH$1000) is not to be sniffed at. Mon–Fri 8am–9pm.
El Rápido Bandera 347 2 2672
2375; map. For decades, El
Rápido has lived up to its name, with a brisk
turnover in excellent empanadas
(from CH$1000). Call out your order as you enter and by the
time you reach the counter your food will be waiting for
you. Mon–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat
9am–3.30pm.
BARRIO LASTARRIA
Bonbon Oriental Merced 355 2 2639
1069; map. Photos of regular customers
cover the walls of this tiny Middle Eastern café, which
serves cardamom-scented Arabic coffee (CH$1500), falafel
sandwiches and sticky-sweet baklavas; there’s also a sister
joint a few doors down. Daily
9am–9pm.
Café del Opera Corner of Merced and Jose Miguel de
la Barra 2 2664 3048, operacatedral.cl; map. This slick heladería (ice-cream parlour) has a great
range of flavours including the wonderful maracujá (passion fruit), served in cones,
cups or in sundaes (CH$3500–7500), as well as coffee,
sandwiches and snacks. Mon–Fri
9am–9pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am–10pm.
Emporio La Rosa Merced 291, Barrio Lastarria
2 2638 0502, emporiolarosa.com; map. Popular with students, this
ice-cream parlour has delicious, inventive flavours, such as
green tea with mango, and banana with palm honey (from
CH$1,900), as well as fine croissants and pain au chocolat. There are several other
branches too. Mon–Thurs 8am–9pm, Fri
8am–10pm, Sat 9am–10pm, Sun 9am–9pm.
LAS CONDES
Cafe Melba Don Carlos 2898 2 2232
4546; map. Next to the British
embassy and run by New Zealanders, this is a favourite expat
hangout. Brunch (around CH$5000), with options such as eggs
Benedict or eggs and bacon, as well as fine coffee, is a
Sunday ritual for many. Mon–Fri
7.30am–7pm, Sat & Sun 8am–3.30pm.
CAFÉ CON PIERNAS
An unusual (and politically incorrect) feature of the city is the tradition of stand-up coffee bars, known as cafés con piernas (literally, coffee with legs); they’re staffed by scantily dressed waitresses serving inexpensive coffee. While mainly patronized by men, there’s no taboo against women entering, and plenty of people do go just for the coffee, which is often better than anywhere else. The two classic ones are Café Caribe and Café Haiti.
RESTAURANTS
Most of Santiago’s restaurants are concentrated in the historic centre, Barrio Lastarria, Bellavista, Barrio Brasil, Providencia, and Las Condes. There are also some imaginative places springing up around Plaza Ñuñoa in the southeast part of town, and in pricey Vitacura. A memorable place for lunch is the Mercado Central, whose central hall is lined with seafood restaurants (marisquerías). Alternatively follow the locals to the cheaper joints across the river in the Feria Municipal La Vega.
HISTORIC CENTRE
El Ají Seco San Antonio 530 2 2638
8818, elajiseco.cl; map. A hectic Peruvian joint serving
sizeable portions of ceviche, fried chicken, seafood and
lomo saltado (a heaped plate
of beef, onions, tomatoes, chips and rice), which you can
wash down with an Inca Cola or a Cusqueña beer. Mains
CH$4500–9000, set lunch CH$5000. There are several other
branches. Mon–Thurs & Sun
12.30–11pm, Fri & Sat 12.30pm–1am.
Bar de la Unión Nueva York 11; map. Old wooden floors, shelves of dusty wine bottles and animated, garrulous old men make this an atmospheric place to pop in for a cheap glass of wine or a leisurely meal. Set lunch CH$3500, mains around CH$7000. Mon–Fri 10am–10.30pm, Sat 10am–5pm.
Bar Nacional Paseo Huérfanos 1151 2 2696
5986; map. This unpretentious stalwart of
the Santiago dining scene serves hearty Chilean staples with
the minimum of fuss. There’s another branch at Bandera 317.
Mains CH$5000–8000. Mon–Sat
8am–11pm.
Confitería Torres Alameda, at Dieciocho 2 2688
0751, confiteriatorres.cl; map. Open since 1879, this is one of
Santiago’s oldest restaurants. While the food is a little
overpriced (mains around CH$9000), the wood-panelled walls,
old mirrors and sagging chairs provide a fabulous
atmosphere. The classic Chilean barros
luco beef and cheese sandwich ($5800) was
supposedly invented here. There are a couple of other
branches, including one at the Centro Cultural Palacio La
Moneda. Mon–Sat
10.30am–midnight.
Kintaro Monjitas 460 kintaro.cl;
map. A busy – particularly at
lunchtime – Japanese canteen serving a delicious range of
sushi, sashimi, tempura and yakisoba (mains around CH$4500). If you sit at
the counter you can watch the chefs at work. Mon–Fri 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm, Sat
7.30–11.30pm.
El Naturista Moneda 846 2 2390
5940, elnaturista.cl; map. The original pioneer of
vegetarian food in Santiago, this large, inexpensive
restaurant attracts a huge, frenetic crowd at lunchtime.
Dishes (around CH$3000) include potato and onion soufflé and
quinoa risotto. There are a couple of other branches around
town. Mon–Fri 8am–9pm, Sat
9am–4pm.
Quijote Nueva York 52 2 2243
7715, quijoterestaurant.cl; map. Another restaurant aimed at the
weekday lunchtime crowd, a bit more refined than most.
Despite the name, the menu is international rather than
Spanish; the tuna with passion fruit sauce and
Peruvian-style potatoes (CH$11,000) is absolutely delicious.
Mon–Fri 8.30am–8pm.
BARRIO BRASIL AND ESTACIÓN CENTRAL
Interesting, off-beat cafés, restaurants and bars are springing up all the time in Barrio Brasil, with seafood a particular speciality. Reservations at weekends are recommended for all the establishments listed below.
El Hoyo San Vicente 375, just south of
Estación Central 2 2689 0339, elhoyo.cl; map. Travelling gastronome
Anthony Bourdain said the best food he ate in Chile was at
El Hoyo, and the hearty,
pork-focused dishes (CH$4500–9800) don’t disappoint.
Specialities include pernil (leg
of pork) and arrollado (rolled
pork). The restaurant is also the originator of the terremoto (earthquake), an
earth-tremblingly potent mix of young white pipeño wine, pisco and pineapple ice cream.
Mon–Fri 11am–11pm, Sat
11am–8pm.
Ocean Pacific’s Ricardo Cumming 221, Barrio Brasil
2 2770 0300, oceanpacifics.cl; map. Worth going for the
interior design alone, which can only be described as
nautical kitsch. Every inch of wall is covered with
whalebones, ships’ instruments etc, the staff dress as
sailors and the food is – of course – seafood orientated,
with an enormous menu that is nearly as dizzying as the
décor. Mains around CH$6000. There is a smaller branch in
Vitacura at Padre Hurtado 1480. Daily noon–11.30pm.
Ostras Azocar General Bulnes 37, Barrio Brasil
2 2681 6109, ostrasazocar.cl; map. This seafood restaurant
has been serving king crab, lobster, squid and more since
1945. The house speciality is baked razor clams in a cheese
sauce. Sadly the waiting staff can be a bit slack. Mains
CH$8000–15,000. Mon–Wed 1.30–4.30pm
& 7.30–11.30pm, Thurs–Sat 12.30–11.30pm, Sun
12.30–4.30pm.
Las Vacas Gordas Cienfuegos 280, Barrio Brasil
2 2697 1066; map. This superior steakhouse
has earned a well-deserved reputation for top-quality meat
(from CH$7000) – try the melt-in-the-mouth wagyu beef or the flavoursome entrecôte. Service is sharp, and the large,
airy dining room has a pleasantly relaxed ambience. Mon–Sat 12.30pm–12.30am, Sun
12.30–5pm.
BARRIO LASTARRIA AND AROUND
Reservations are recommended here in the evenings, as many of the restaurants have fewer than ten tables. Parking is easy, and the barrio is just a 2min walk from the Universidad Católica metro stop. This neighbourhood generally is safe, but Cerro Santa Lucia park should be avoided at night.
BocaNariz Jose V. Lastarria 276 2 2638
9893, bocanariz.cl; map. With over three hundred wine
labels in its cellar, this is a restaurant that seeks to
introduce you to new tipples and the ideal food with which
to pair it. Its most popular wine tasting options are the
‘vuelos’ of three glasses, each a different blend. Set lunch
menus CH$7000. Mon–Sat
noon–midnight, Sun 7pm–midnight.
Fuente Alemana Alameda 58 2 2639
3231; map. This fun Santiago institution
feels a bit like a Germanic take on an American-style diner.
Grab a seat at the counter, order a draught beer, and watch
your vast lomito beef sandwich
(CH$3300), churrasco or other
artery-clogging meal being prepared before you. Mon–Sat 10am–10.30pm.
Japón Baron Pierre de Coubertin 39
2 2222 4517; map. Tucked away on a quiet side
street close to the Argentine embassy is Santiago’s oldest
and best Japanese restaurant. The sushi, in particular, is
outstanding, making full-use of Chile’s wonderful range of
seafood. Mains CH$4000–14,000. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 8–11pm.
Squadritto Rosal 332 2 2632
2121, squadrittoristorante.cl; map. This long-running Genoese
Italian restaurant serves superb, if rather pricey, pizzas,
pastas and other traditional dishes – the risottos are a
particular highlight. Staff are welcoming, though the
atmosphere is somewhat formal. Mains around CH$8500, weekday
set lunch CH$11,900. Mon–Sat 1–4pm
& 7pm–midnight, Sun 1–4pm.
BELLAVISTA
Bellavista – particularly Calle Constitución, which runs parallel with the area’s main drag, Pio Nono – is at the heart of Santiago’s eating-out scene, with a wide range of excellent, and often innovative, restaurants.
El Caramaño Purísima 257 2 2737
7043, elcaramaño.cl; map. Graffiti-covered walls, soft
live guitar music, amiable waiters, excellent,
wallet-friendly Chilean food like pastel de
choclo, and frequently a free aperitif make
this restaurant a stand-out choice. Mains CH$4000–7000.
Daily 2pm–midnight.
Ciudad Vieja Constitución 92 2 2248
9412, caramano.tripod.com; map. This cool sanguchería turns sandwich-making into an art
form: varieties (CH$4600–5200) include teriyaki chicken,
suckling pig, fried merluza (hake)
and the chivito, Uruguay’s take on
the steak sandwich. Deliciously salty French fries come on
the side, and there’s an extensive range of artisanal beers
too. Mon 12.30pm–midnight, Tues
12.30pm–1am, Wed 12.30pm–1.30am, Thurs 12.30pm–2am, Fri
& Sat 12.30pm–2.30am.
Étniko Constitución 172, at Lopez de Bello
2 2732 0119, www.etniko.cl; map. The blue neon-lit,
Japanese-inspired interior attracts a cool 20s–30s crowd
drawn by more than forty types of sushi and sashimi, plus
numerous other Southeast Asian dishes, and excellent
ceviche. It turns into a bar-club (with a focus on
house/electro) later on – try the knockout sake-based
cocktails. You have to ring the doorbell to enter. Mains
from CH$6000. Mon–Thurs
8pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 8pm–2am.
Galindo Constitución, at Dardignac 2
2777 0116, galindo.cl;
map Classic Bellavista hangout, busy at all hours for
hearty dishes like beef casserole and longaniza (spicy sausage) and chips. During
the summer the tables spill out onto the street. Mains
CH$4000–7000. Mon–Sat
10am–2am.
El Toro Loreto 33 2 2936
6715; map. An effortlessly trendy
restaurant with an appealing whimsical air – pots of crayons
are left on each table so that you can doodle while you wait
for your food – and an array of tempting dishes such as
shrimp crêpes. Mains CH$5000–9000. Mon–Sat 1–4pm & 7pm–midnight.
PROVIDENCIA AND ÑUÑOA
Conveniently located on the metro, Providencia offers many lunch and dinner options. Nearby, though less accessible, Ñuñoa has trendier eateries, often with good music thrown in.
Astrid y Gastón Antonio Bellet 201, Providencia
2 2650 9125, astridygaston.cl; map. The owners’ Peruvian
origins show through in the menu, but you can also find
European and Asian influences. Dishes (CH$10,000–CH$20,000)
include a ceviche sampler, beef with red wine and pepper
sauce, and chocolate soufflé. Sadly the restaurant has lost
some of its sparkle in recent times and given the high
prices and reputation (it’s a good idea to reserve ahead),
the quality can be disappointing. Mon–Fri 1–3pm & 8pm–midnight, Sat
8pm–midnight.
Barandiaran Manuel Montt 315, Providencia
2 2236 6854, barandiaran.cl; map. Some of the best
Peruvian food in Santiago is served here: ceviche, sea bass
and the more leftfield choice of Patagonian lamb in a
coriander sauce are all on offer. There are also branches in
Patio Bellavista and Plaza Ňuňoa. Mains CH$8000–11,000.
Tues–Thurs 1–4pm &
8pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 1–4pm & 8pm–1am, Sun
1–4pm.
El Huerto Orrego Luco 54, Providencia 2
2233 2690, elhuerto.cl;
map. The best vegetarian
restaurant in Santiago, with a mouthwatering range of
inventive, seasonal dishes (around CH$6000); asparagus and
ricotta strudel, paneer tikka masala, and vegetable
quesadillas all feature on the menu. The freshly squeezed
juices and artisan beers are also well worth a try. Mon–Sat noon–11pm, Sun
12.30–4.30pm.
Las Lanzas Humberto Trucco 25, Plaza Ñuñoa
2 2225 5589; map. This traditional
bar-restaurant, with tables spilling onto the pavement, is
the classic drinking spot in
Ñuñoa. It also offers a range of meat and fish dishes at
amazingly low prices (mains CH$2500–5000). Mon–Thurs 10am–1am, Fri & Sat
10am–3am.
Le Flaubert Orrego Luco 125, Providencia
2 2231 9424, leflaubert.cl; map. This exemplary
Chilean–French bistro and salon de
thé has an ever-changing menu marked up on
chalkboards. Dishes (around CH$8000) could include country
pâté, coq au vin and tarte tatin.
There are also thirty different varieties of tea, and
home-made cheeses and preserves for sale too. Tea with cakes
and sandwiches CH$5000. Mon
10.30am–9pm, Tues–Fri 10.30am–11pm, Sat 12.30–11pm, Sun
12.30–7pm.
Liguria Av Providencia 1373, Providencia
2 2235 7914, liguria.cl;
map. Portraits, film posters,
flower designs and football pennants adorn the walls of this
legendary Santiago restaurant-bar, which has outdoor tables,
a bar area, main dining area and several back rooms, so you
can normally find a seat. Dishes include pork ribs in
mustard sauce, sea bass with capers, and pot roast. There
are two other branches, but this one is the best. Mains from
CH$5000. Mon–Sat 11am–2am.
Santo Remedio Roman Diaz 152, Providencia 2
2235 0984, santoremedio.cl; map. The idiosyncratic decor
has a surreal edge – including high-backed wooden chairs and
a zebra print sofa – and the food is billed as “an
aphrodisiacal experience”, with pastas, Thai curries, steaks
and seafood all featuring on the menu. It’s also the place for a Sunday night out, as
well as a good stopover for drinks any night of the week.
Mains CH$6300–9400, set lunches CH$4400–6400. Mon–Fri 1–3.30pm & 6.30pm–late, Sat
& Sun 9pm–late.
LAS CONDES AND VITACURA
As you’d expect in these exclusive neighbourhoods, restaurants are often more about money than taste, but those listed below are well worth the extra outlay.
Amicci Apoquindo 7741 2 2934
3722, amicci.cl; map. A short walk from Los Dominicos
craft market, this restaurant combines attentive
service, a creative cocktail menu (about CH$3,500 each) and
refined Italian cuisine, including a particularly memorable
seafood risotto (CH$10,500). Mon–Sat
12.30–3.30pm & 7.30–11.30pm, Sun
12.30–3.30pm.
Boragó Nueva Costanera 3467 2 2953
8893, borago.cl; map. Considered one of Latin
America’s best restaurants, Boragó
employs a tasting menu (CH$35,000–55,000) to present its
innovative take on Chilean traditional cuisine. The dishes
vary according to the season and whim of the chef, but
include such delights as machas
marinated in garlic, or parma violet icecream. Reserve
ahead. Mon–Sat 8–11pm.
Coquinaria Isidora Goyenechea 3000 2
2245 1934, coquinaria.cl; map. This gourmet food
store-cum-restaurant is an appealing place at any time of
day. The menu features a host of breakfast, brunch, lunch
and dinner options – if you’re feeling decadent, try the
wagyu beef burger with foie
gras. Brunch CH$9550, set lunch CH$10,250. Mon–Tues 9am–7.30pm, Wed–Sat 9am–11pm,
Sun 9am–8pm.
Nolita Isidora Goyenechea 3456 2
2232 6114, nolita.cl; map. Self-consciously aping
the style of the eponymous New York district, Nolita produces top-quality, artfully
presented Italian cuisine (mains around CH$9000), with the
seafood dishes, pastas and desserts all outstanding. Mon–Thurs 1–3.30pm & 8–11pm, Fri
& Sat 1–3.30pm & 8pm–midnight, Sun
1–3.30pm.
Tanta Boulevard Parque Arauco 2
2364 1368, tantaperu.com; map. By far the best
restaurant in the popular Parque Arauco shopping complex,
this branch of a bright and breezy Peruvian chain does large
portions of very tasty Peruvian fare, including tacu tacu, lomo
saltado and, of course, huge pisco sours.
Tanta is also found in the
other main malls. Daily
11am–9pm.
Tiramisú Isidora Goyenechea 3141 2
2519 4900, tiramisu.cl;
map. Long-running Italian
restaurant with a vast array of salads, thin-crust pizzas
(CH$3900–6950), pastas and desserts, all at – considering
the location – reasonable prices. The calzones are particularly good. Daily 12.45–4pm &
7pm–midnight.
Zanzibar Monseñor Escriva de Balaguer 6400,
inside the Borde del Río complex, Vitacura 2 2218
0120, zanzibar.cl; map. One of Santiago’s most
beautiful restaurants, with a host of Moroccan-style dining
rooms, including a rooftop tented lounge. The global menu
has an eclectic range of dishes including lamb tagine and
conger eel with a black olive crust. Mains CH$8000–15,000.
Mon–Sat noon–midnight, Sun
noon–6pm.
TOP 5 PLACES TO EAT TRADITIONAL CHILEAN FOOD
BARS
Santiago’s bars range from dusty, mahogany-panelled corner bars full of ancient regulars to ultra-trendy spaces. Lastarria has a number of cool, idiosyncratic bars and there are also plenty of options in grungier Bellavista. Providencia sports a number of bar-restaurants, but the dozens of dispiriting American-style bars, particularly around the junction of Suecia and Holley, are best avoided.
BARRIO LASTARRIA
Bar Don Rodrigo Victoria Subercaseaux 353; map. Officially a hotel bar, attached to the Hotel Floresta, this place channels the 1950s, with an old-school bar area and live piano. The drinks aren’t quite at 1950s prices, but are pretty cheap nonetheless ($2500 for a cocktail); be careful, they pack a punch. Mon–Sat 7pm–2am.
Bar The Clinic Monjitas 578 2 2639
9548, bartheclinic.cl; map. Run by the people behind
satirical magazine The Clinic,
this restaurant-bar maintains an appealingly irreverent air,
from the quote of the day chalked up on a blackboard outside
to the regular stand-up shows (in Spanish). There are also
inexpensive snacks and meals (CH$4000–8000). Daily 12.30pm–2am.
Berri Rosal 321; map. Small bar, hidden away on a side
street east of Santa Lucía with an understated, bohemian
feel. Friendly staff and a loyal local following give this
place a great atmosphere, even during the week. Mon–Thurs 7pm–3am, Sat 7pm–4am.
Catedral Merced, at Jose Miguel de la Barra
2 2664 3048, operacatedral.cl; map. This second-floor bar is a
swish, modern space with a roof terrace ideal for a summer
evening. There’s a good menu of drinks (from CH$3000), and a
small selection of dishes such as fried tilapia if you get peckish. Mon–Thurs 12.30pm–3am, Fri & Sat
12.30pm–5am.
BELLAVISTA
Bar Dos Gardenias Antonia López de Bello 199 bardosgardenias.cl; map. A chilled-out and welcoming
Cuban bar, with a faded red and yellow exterior, the
obligatory Che picture, live Latin music and refreshing
drinks (a mojito will set you back CH$3500). It’s always
lively on Fri and Sat nights. Tues–Thurs 8pm–2am, Fri 8pm–4am, Sat
8.30pm–4am.
La Casa en el Aire Antonia López de Bello 125 2
2735 6680, lacasaenelaire.cl; map. Named after Neruda’s poem
Voy a hacerte una casa en el
aire (‘I will build you a house in the air’)
this bar-café is one of the nicest places in Bellavista to
enjoy a drink and live folk music, with occasional poetry
recitals thrown in. There’s also a much less atmospheric
branch in Patio Bellavista. Daily
8pm–2/3am.
Ky Av Peru 631 2 2777
7245, restobarky.cl; map. From the outside this
old house appears to have been abandoned, but once inside
you find a beautifully renovated “resto-bar” kitted out with
an eclectic array of knick-knacks. It’s great for a
late-night drink or a Southeast Asian meal. Tues–Sat 8pm–2am.
LAS CONDES
Flannery’s Encomenderos 83 2 2233
6675, flannerys.cl; map. The inevitable Irish
pub, but a good choice for a night out in the Sanhattan area
– large and busy, with both a loyal local clientele and good
number of expats, who come to sup Guinness and English ale,
watch the football or rugby and eat Irish stew or fish and
chips (CH$6000). Mon–Fri
noon–2.30am, Sat 5.30pm–3am, Sun
5.30pm–12.30am.
NIGHTLIFE
Santiago is not a 24/7 party town, but Thursday, Friday and Saturday
nights are lively, and the club scene is constantly evolving, while
live music – from folk to heavy metal – is
popular. Dance festival Creamfields (creamfields.cl) and rock
festival Lollapalooza (lollapalooza.cl) have run Chilean editions in recent years
(in Nov and March respectively).
CLUBS AND LIVE MUSIC
You’ll find venues everywhere from the historic centre to bohemian Ñuñoa, in bars, jazz clubs and concert venues. Bellavista, in particular, has many “resto-bars” with live music, as well as a number of (generally unappealing) clubs on Pío Nono; this area can be a bit unsafe at night, so take care.
La Batuta Jorge Washington 52, Plaza Ñuñoa
2 2724 4037, batuta.cl; map. There’s a wonderful grungy
atmosphere at this dark, packed club just off Plaza Ñuñoa, which
hosts rock bands, hip hop groups and heavy metal outfits.
Wed & Thurs 10pm–2am, Fri &
Sat 10pm–4.30am.
Blondie Alameda 2879, north side, near ULA 2 2681 7793, blondie.cl; map. A popular student hangout
with loud – and often live – music (lots of techno, dance,
electro and indie), and dancing. Generally Thurs–Sat midnight–4/5am, though it sometimes
hosts events on other nights too.
Club de Jazz Av Ossa 123, Mall Plaza Egaña, La Reina,
close to Plaza
Egaña clubdejazz.cl;
map. Founded in 1943 and still
going strong, the Club de Jazz has an
invariably excellent line-up of Chilean and international jazz
musicians. Fri & Sat 10.30pm–late,
plus occasional Sun evening shows.
Club La Feria Constitución 275, Bellavista 2
2735 8433, clublaferia.cl;
map. The best place in Santiago for
electro, Club La Feria – which has
been running since 1996 – plays host to an illustrious cast of
Chilean and international DJs. Wed–Sat
10pm–4/5am.
La Maestra Vida Pío Nono 380, Bellavista 2 2777
5325, maestravida.cl; map. One of Santiago’s oldest
salsatecas and popular with
dancers of all ages, giving it a friendly vibe – there’s no need
to feel shy about practising your steps here. It also runs salsa
classes. Tues 10pm–3.30am, Wed &
Thurs 10.30pm–3.30am, Fri 10.30pm–4.30am, Sat
11.30pm–4.30am, Sun 10pm–3.30am.
Teatro Caupolicán San Diego 850, close to
Parque O’Higgins, teatrocaupolican.cl; map. Long-running gig venue near Parque
O’Higgins, used by popular international, Latin American and
local musicians. Check the website to see listings (‘cartelera’).
ENTERTAINMENT
Theatre, Classical music, dance and opera
Santiago is generally the best place in Chile to enjoy the arts. The
Friday newspapers include comprehensive entertainment listings, and you
can also check listings for the bigger events and buy tickets at
Ticketek Chile (ticketek.cl).
The guide website santiagochile.com also has what’s on listings.
CINEMA
There are plenty of cinemas in Santiago, though the choice of movies in the larger ones tends to be limited to the latest Hollywood blockbusters; those that have family appeal are usually dubbed. Huérfanos is the main cinema street in the historic centre. Tickets start at around CH$4000.
Centro Arte Alameda Alameda 139, historic centre 2
2664 8821, www.centroartealameda.cl. Comfy cinema
with a regularly changing and wide-ranging choice of foreign
films.
Centro de Extensión de la Universidad
Católica Alameda 390, historic centre 2
2354 6516, extension.uc.cl. Especially good for
older films, often presented as part of themed programmes. Many
free showings for students with ID.
Centro Cultural Matucana 100 Matucana 100, near Parque Quinta Normal
2 2682 4502, m100.cl. Runs
regular film seasons, sometimes in English, plus art exhibitions
and concerts.
Cine Arte Normandie Tarapacá 1181, historic centre 2
2697 2979, normandie.cl. Cinema with a reputation
for showing obscure contemporary European films.
Cine Hoyts Moneda 835, historic centre 600
500 0400, cinehoyts.cl. In a convenient location
in the historic centre of Santiago, this cinema has six
screens.
Cinemark Theatres Av Kennedy 9001, Mall Alto Las Condes
600 586 0058, www.cinemark.cl. Modern multiplex
offering Hollywood’s latest flicks.
THEATRE, CLASSICAL MUSIC, DANCE AND OPERA
The best time to experience Chilean theatre is in January, when
Santiago hosts Santiago a Mil (stgoamil.cl), an enormous international festival of
theatre (plus dance and other arts). During the rest of the year,
many theatres are only open Thursday to Saturday. Ticket prices are
usually reasonable, from around CH$4000–5000.
Centro Cultural Mori Constitución 183, Bellavista 2
2777 6246, centromori.cl. A cutting-edge theatre, dance
and arts venue.
Centro Gabriela Mistral Bernardo O’Higgins 227, Lastarria
2 2566 5500, gam.cl. You
can’t miss Santiago’s newest and most exciting cultural offering
– a huge weathered steel edifice on the Alameda. GAM has a wide-ranging programme of
contemporary theatre, dance, music, art and cinema – it’s always
worth popping in to see what they have going on.
Teatro Bellavista Dardignac 110, Bellavista 2 2735
2395. This long-established and
reliable theatre usually stages modern foreign plays, often
comedies.
Teatro de la Universidad Católica Jorge Washington 26, Ñuñoa 2 2205
5652, teatrouc.uc.cl. This university-run
venue offers classic shows and adaptations of international
works.
Teatro Municipal Agustinas 749, historic centre
800 471 000, municipal.cl. Santiago’s most prestigious
performing arts venue, offering a menu of classical concerts,
ballet and opera in a splendid old building.
Teatro San Ginés Mallinkrodt 112, Bellavista 2
2738 2159, sangines.cl5. Top Chilean productions
are staged here, as are fine children’s shows on weekend
afternoons.
GAY AND LESBIAN SANTIAGO
Santiago is the only city in Chile with anything resembling an
organized gay community. The scene, such as it is, centres around
Bellavista, and consists of a small
collection of bars, restaurants, discos and saunas. Local gay rights
organization Movilh (movilh.cl)
holds an annual gay pride march and cinema festival.
RESTAURANTS AND BARS
Capricho Español Purísima 65 2 2777 7674;
map. Spanish and international
cuisine (mains around CH$5000–8000) served by an all-male
waiting staff in an atmospheric, neo-colonial building. Try to
grab the cow-print sofa on the terrace. Free passes to Bokhara are often handed out. Mon–Thurs 8pm–2.30am, Fri & Sat
8pm–3am.
Farinelli Bombero Nuñez 68 2 2732
8966; map. Bar with shows every evening,
many of them hilarious comic drag acts requiring a decent level
of Spanish to be fully appreciated. Tues–Thurs 7pm–3.30am, Fri & Sat 7pm–4.30am, Sun
7pm–2am.
< Back to Gay and lesbian Santiago
CLUBS
Bokhara Pío Nono 430; map. A legendary, multi-storey club with a mixed gay and lesbian crowd, and shows featuring drag artists and Brazilian dance troupes. The queues to get in, however, can be long. Daily 10pm–4/5am.
SHOPPING
Mountain climbing and outdoor equipment
Chileans love to go shopping and the capital has a number of modern, American-style shopping centres packed with imported brands from the U.S. and elsewhere. The historic centre is perhaps of more interest to visitors, with its small, old-fashioned shops and a warren of arcades (galerías) that seem to lurk behind every other doorway.
The city’s markets offer some great shopping: Feria Santa Lucía (daily 11am–9pm) sells crafts, clothes and lapis lazuli; the enormous and very lively Persa Bio Bio (Sat & Sun 9am–around 2pm) runs the length of Franklin and Bío Bío, and at the junction with Victor Manual has a great flea market, and lots of antiques stalls; the excellent Pueblito de los Dominicos (daily: summer 10.30am–8pm; winter 10am–7pm) has over two hundred stalls selling knitwear, ceramics, glass objects, books, and antiques; Antiguedades Parque Los Reyes (Brasil 1157; daily 10am–around 2pm) is a great place to browse for antique furniture, musical instruments, books and bric-à-brac. Also don’t miss the stalls at the Mercado Central and the Feria Municipal La Vega, which are great places to explore and eat at. In Bellavista head to Avenida Bellavista, between Puente Pío Nono and Puente del Arzobispo, where there are a string of workshops and salesrooms selling jewellery and other objects made of lapis lazuli.
BOOKS AND CDS
Librería Inglesa Huérfanos 669, local 11, historic centre
2 2632 5153, libreriainglesa.cl; map. Fairly good, expensive choice
of Penguin paperbacks and other English-language books. Mon–Fri 10am–7.30pm, Sat
10am–1.30pm.
La Tienda Nacional Merced 369, Lastarria 2 2638
4706, latiendanacional.cl; map. As the name suggests, this
shop specialises in all things Chilean, with an emphasis on
music and film, although it also sells all sorts of
knick-knacks. A good place to find something different to take
home, from a Chilean folk music CD to a rainbow-coloured
anti-dictatorship NO mug. Mon–Sat
noon–8pm.
TXT Ahumada 268, historic centre; map. Sells a mix of independent and classic DVDs, music and books, including lots of Chilean music CDs. Mon–Fri 10am–9pm, Sat & Sun 10am–8pm.
POTTERY IN POMAIRE
Some 50km southwest of Santiago, the dusty, quaint village of Pomaire was one of the pueblos de indios created by the Spanish in the eighteenth century in an attempt to control the native population. Its inhabitants quickly developed a reputation for their pottery and the village streets (particularly the main street, San Antonio) are packed with dozens of workshops selling a vast range of pots, bowls and kitchenware, many of them made from the characteristic attractive but brittle coffee-coloured greda clay. Simple eateries line the streets, some specializing in giant 1.5kg empanadas. To get to Pomaire by public transport, take a Melipilla bus from Terminal San Borja and ask to be set off at the side road to Pomaire (regular; 1hr–1hr 30min from Santiago). From here, it’s a 30min walk into the village, or take a colectivo or taxi.
SHOPPING CENTRES
Alto Las Condes Av Kennedy 9001, Las Condes 2
2299 6965, altolascondes.cl; map. Huge, modern shopping
centres with over two hundred shops, food court, and bowling
alley. Daily 10am–10pm.
Costanera Center Andrés Bello 2425, Providencia 2
2916 9200, www.costaneracenter.cl; map. One of Latin America’s
largest shopping centres at the base of one of its tallest skyscrapers. The six floors of retailing are rather
bland, even by shopping centre standards, though it does have
the virtue of being close to a metro station (Tobalaba). Daily 10am–10pm.
Mall Sport Av Las Condes 13451, La Dehesa 2
2429 3030, mallsport.cl; map. On the main route up to
the ski resorts at Farellones, this shopping centre is
dedicated, as its name suggests, to sports. As well as a
plethora of stores selling trekking, skiing and gym gear, it has
a climbing wall, artificial wave for surf lessons, and winter
ice rink. Daily 10am–9pm.
Parque Arauco Av Kennedy 5413, Las Condes 2
2299 0629, parquearauco.cl; map. The best mall in town,
with some unexpectedly good restaurants, plus cinemas and a
theatre. Take a taxi or walk from Estación Militar metro; the
Turistik bus also stops here. Daily 11am–9pm.
FOOD AND DRINK
WINE TOURS NEAR SANTIAGO
Santiago is within easy reach of some of Chile’s oldest wineries, several of which offer tours and tastings. Those by the Río Maipo, in particular, are beautifully located, with large swaths of emerald-green vines framed by the snowcapped cordillera and bright-blue skies. Harvesting takes place in March, and if you visit during then you’ll see the grapes being sorted and pressed. If you want to visit a vineyard you should book at least a day beforehand. We’ve listed some relatively easily reached wineries below, which are accessible by public transport. All the tours include free tastings.
Concha y Toro Virginia Subercaseaux 210, Pirque
2 2476 5269, conchaytoro.com; From 
Las Mercedes it’s a short taxi
ride to the vineyard. This handsome vineyard, behind the famous Casillero
del Diablo wine brand, was founded in 1883 by Don Melchor Concha
y Toro. It is now the largest wine producer in Latin America and
one of the world’s leading brands. Tours CH$9000, or CH$19,000
for premium tasting tour. Tours
regularly daily between 10am and 4pm in English, premium
tours at 4pm in English.
Cousiño Macul 7100 Av Quilin 2 2351
4135, cousinomacul.com; From Quilin take a taxi or walk 30min
east along Av Quilin. The main estate
and park of Chile’s oldest winery (dating from 1550) make a nice
quick trip from central Santiago. Bilingual tours CH$9000 or
CH$18,000 for premium tasting. Mon–Fri
11am, noon, 3pm and 4pm, Sat & Sun 11am &
noon.
Santa Rita Padre Hurtado 695, Alto Jahuel 2
2362 2520, www.santarita.com; train to Buin, from where you
can catch a bus or taxi, or take the Turistik
tour. Santa Rita and sister vineyard
Carmen are the home of Carmenere, where the signature Chilean
grape, thought extinct, was rediscovered in the 1990s by a
visiting French oenologist. As well as tours and tastings, the
site has the anthropological Museo
Andino, an elegant restaurant and a beautifully
located hotel (doubles CH$140,000) in the old family hacienda
that even has its own ghost (ask the hotel manager to show you
the photos). Tours from CH$10,000. Several tours daily Tues–Sun.
Undurraga Old road to Melipilla, Km 34 2
2372 2900, www.undurraga.cl; bus to Talagante from Terminal
San Borja (every 15min; 30min), and ask to be dropped off at
the vineyard. Still run by the Undurraga family,
the vineyard was established in 1885, complete with mansion and
park. It’s now a large, modern winery, and you’re likely to be
shown around by someone who’s directly involved in the
wine-making process. Bilingual tours CH$9000. Mon–Fri 10.15am, noon, 2pm and 3.30pm, Sat
& Sun 10.15am, noon & 3.30pm.
MOUNTAIN CLIMBING AND OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT
As well as the places listed here, Mall Sport has a wide range of stores selling outdoor clothing and equipment, although not usually at the cheapest prices.
La Cumbre Av Apoquindo 5220, Las Condes 2
2220 9907, lacumbreonline.cl; map. Run by friendly staff,
this shop has world-class boots, eyewear and climbing
accessories as well as a small library of books about exploring
the Andes. Mon–Fri 11am–8pm, Sat
11am–4pm.
DIRECTORY
Embassies Argentina, Miraflores 285 2 2582 2606; Australia,
Isidora Goyenechea 3621 2 2550 3500; Brazil, Alonso
Ovalle 1665 2 2659 1911; Canada, 12th floor, World
Trade Centre, Nueva Tajamar 481 2 2652 3800; France,
Condell 65 2 2470 8000; Germany, Las Hualtatas 5677
2 2463 2500; Israel, San Sebastián 2812 2
2750 0500; Netherlands, Apoquindo 3500 2 2756
9200; New Zealand, Isidora Goyenechea 3000, 12th floor
2 2616 3000; Peru, Antonio Bellet 444 2
2940 2900; South Africa, 4th floor, Apoquindo 2827
2 2820 0300; UK, Av El Bosque Norte 0125 2
2370 4100; US, Av Andrés Bello 2800 2 2330
3000.
Emergencies Ambulance 131; fire department (bomberos) 132; police (carabineros) 133.
Hospitals Clínica Alemana, Vitacura 5951, Vitacura 2 2210
1111, www.alemana.cl; Clínica Las Condes, Estoril 450, Las
Condes 2 2210 4000, www.clinicalascondes.cl; Clínica Indisa, Av Santa María
1810, Providencia 2 2362 5555, indisa.cl.
Language courses BridgeChile, Los Leones 439 2 2233 4356, bridgechile.com;
Centro Chileno Canadiense, Office 601, Luis Thayer Ojeda 191
2 2334 1090, canadiense.cl;
Natalislang, Arturo Bürhle 47, Providencia, natalislang.com.
Laundry Most hostels and hotels offer a laundry service, and there are also numerous laundries throughout the city. Lavandería Tarroca, Mac Iver 490, is conveniently located in the historic centre.
Money and exchange Most banks are open 9am–2pm only; almost all have 24hr ATMs – look for the maroon and white Redbanc sign. Many commercial establishments (particularly pharmacies) also have ATMs. The best place to change cash and travellers’ cheques is the cluster of change houses on Agustinas between Ahumada and Bandera in the historic centre. Few Chilean banks are useful for changing dollars, but Citibank (many branches, including Huérfanos 770, Ahumada 40, Teatinos 180 and La Bolsa 64) charges no commission for changing US dollars into pesos.
Newspapers There are numerous newspaper kiosks around town; those at the corner of Huérfanos and Ahumada sell a reasonable range of foreign newspapers, including Die Welt, the Financial Times and The New York Times, and magazines.
Pharmacies Farmacias Ahumada (600 222 4000, farmaciasahumada.cl) has a number of 24hr branches,
including Huérfanos 896, and El Bosque 164, Providencia; they’ll
deliver for a small charge.
Post offices Correo Central, Plaza de Armas 559 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–7pm, Sat 8.30am–1pm). Other branches at Moneda 1155, near Morandé; Local 17, Exposición 57 Paseo Estación; Av Nueva Providencia 2092.
CAJÓN DEL MAIPO
The CAJÓN DEL MAIPO is a beautiful river valley carved out of the Andes by the Río Maipo. Served by a good paved road and punctuated by a string of hamlets offering tourist facilities, it’s one of the most popular weekend escapes from the capital. The potential for outdoor adventures is enormous, with organized hiking, rafting and mountain biking trips all on offer.
Start at the mouth of the cajón, just 25km southeast of Santiago, at Las Vizcachas. Here the scenery is lush and gentle, and as you climb into the valley you’ll pass vineyards, orchards, roadside stalls selling locally produced fruit, and signs advertising home-made küchen (cake), miel (honey), pan amasado (fresh oven-baked bread) and chicha (cider).
Note that there are no banks or ATMs in the Cajón del Maipo, so bring cash.
San José de Maipo
Twenty-five kilometres on from Las Vizcachas is the administrative centre of the valley, SAN JOSÉ DE MAIPO. It’s quite attractive, with single-storey adobe houses and an old, colonial church. The town is also the last place along the road where you can fill up with petrol.
San Alfonso
Some 15km beyond San José is SAN ALFONSO
(1100m altitude), a lovely place if you just want to unwind for a few hours
in beautiful mountain scenery. Former nineteenth-century horse ranch Cascada de las Animas offers horseriding, kayaking and whitewater
rafting as well as a good ninety-minute guided walk up to a 20m
waterfall (the “Cascada
de las Animas”) on the other side of the river. You can also
arrange similar trips through Altué Expediciones in Santiago (2 2333
1390, altue.com).
San Gabriel and El Volcán
By the time you reach SAN GABRIEL, 50km from the start of the valley road at Las Vizcachas, you are entering increasingly rugged Andes scenery. This uninteresting village marks the end of the asphalt road, which continues as a very poor dirt track for another 20km to Lo Valdés. To carry on, you have to go through a carabineros (police) checkpoint, so make sure you’ve got all your driving documents and passport with you. Unless you’re in a 4WD you should expect to go very slowly from this point onwards. The village of El Volcán, at Km 56, was practically wiped out by a landslide some years ago. By now the scenery is really dramatic as you snake between 4000m mountains coloured with jagged mineral-patterns of violet, cream and blue.
Baños Morales and Baños de Colina
The village of BAÑOS MORALES, the site of an uninviting thermal pool about 12 km from El Volcán, is the closest base to the beautiful, jagged-peaked Monumento Nacional El Morado. From here the road deteriorates into an even poorer track, but continues for another 11km to Baños de Colina, a series of natural thermal pools carved into the mountainside; for all their remoteness they can get horribly crowded in summer weekends, but otherwise are blissfully empty. This is also the embarkation point for multi-day horse treks into the Andes. Up to week-long excursions often leave in packed caravans that snake into the mountains. For less arduous trips, many locals rent out horses by the hour or afternoon.
HIKING IN THE MONUMENTO NACIONAL EL MORADO
A path from the bus stop in Baños Morales crosses a bridge and leads to the Conaf hut at the entrance to Monumento Nacional El Morado (daily: Oct–April 8.30am–6pm, May–Sept 8.30am–1pm; CH$2000), where you should get the latest hiking and climbing information as landslides, snowmelts and the glaciers change the terrain from year to year. The park’s single 8km trail follows the Río Morales through a narrow valley that ends at the glacier that feeds the river. Towering above the glacier, and visible from almost all points along the trail, is the magnificent silhouette of El Mirador del Morado (4320m) and, just behind, El Morado itself (5060m).
Apart from the first half-hour, the path is fairly level and not hard going, though you may find yourself feeling breathless as you gradually climb in altitude. About 5km beyond the Conaf hut – after roughly two to three hours of hiking – you reach a small lake, Laguna de Morado, where there is free camping, a toilet and water pump. Once past the lake, the path is less defined, but it’s easy enough to pick your way through the stones to the black, slimy-looking glacier 3km beyond, at an altitude of 2500m. Don’t enter the tempting ice caves – they are unstable. This is a good place for day-trekkers to turn around and head back.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: CAJÓN DEL MAIPO
By bus Getting to Cajón del Maipo is easy from Santiago: the #72 bus to San José de Maipo (every 10–20min; 1hr 30min) runs from Av Concha y Toro, outside Las Mercedes metro station. There are less frequent services from Santiago to Baños Morales (#72 bus 7.30am from Bellavista La Florida metro station, daily Jan & Feb; weekends only mid-Sept to Dec; 2hr 30min) and El Volcán (several daily; 2hr). Shared taxis and minibuses connect San José de Maipo with San Alfonso and other places in the cajón.
By car For private vehicles the road from Santiago is fine until San Gabriel, where it may be filled with rocks and landslides. Weekend traffic can be horrendous, with 2–3hr backups. To avoid the traffic, make sure you enter the cajón well before 10am and leave before 3pm (or, if necessary, late at night).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Cascada de las Animas By the river, San Alfonso 2 2861
1303, cascada.net. Set in a park, this highly
recommended lodge has a wide range of accommodation including
camping spots, cosy rooms in a renovated 1930s building, and lovely
wooden cabins, as well as a fabulous outdoor pool, a restaurant
overlooking the steep river gorge and a good bar. An extensive range
of activities are on offer including trekking, horseriding, rafting
and ziplining. Camping/person CH$10,000, doubles CH$36,000, cabins CH$78,000
Refugio Lo Valdés About 1km beyond the fork to Baños Morales,
Lo Valdés 09 230 5930, refugiolovaldes.com. This atmospheric
Alpine-style mountain refuge, dating back to 1932, has comfortable
dorm-style accommodation, plus a restaurant-bar. Numerous activities
– such as horseriding, trekking and mountain biking – are on offer
too. CH$22,000
Residencial España Camino al Volcán, San Alfonso 31443 2
2861 1543. There are just five rooms at
this simple B&B; all are clean, homely and share bathrooms.
Rates include breakfast, and there’s an excellent attached Spanish
restaurant that serves – among other dishes – a very tasty paella.
Restaurant open daily noon-7pm. CH$22,000
LOS ANDES AND AROUND
There’s nothing wildly exciting about LOS ANDES, but this old colonial town, with its narrow streets and lively main square, makes a convenient base for day-trips to the ski resort of Portillo. Eighty kilometres north of Santiago, on the international road to Mendoza, Argentina, it’s set in the beautiful Aconcagua valley; the first ridge rises to 3500m and then soars to 6959m Aconcagua, the highest peak outside the Himalayas, just across the border in Argentina. The surrounding region is fertile, and as you approach Los Andes from Santiago you’ll pass vineyards and numerous peach and lemon orchards.
SKIING NEAR SANTIAGO
Santiago is close to some of the best skiing in South America. Sunshine is abundant and queues for lifts are practically nonexistent during weekdays. The season normally lasts from mid-June to early October, with snow virtually guaranteed from mid-July to the first week in September.
Sitting high in the Andes at the foot of Cerro Colorado, a 90min drive along a snaking road (‘Camino a Farellones’) from Santiago, Farellones is a straggling collection of hotels and apartments that serves the triple ‘Tres Valles’ resorts of El Colorado (4km north), La Parva (2km further on), and Valle Nevado (a winding 14km east). All three resorts are connected by pistes and can theoretically be skied in the same day if the runs are open. Alternatively, a 2hr drive from Santiago on the better-condition international road (Autopista Los Libertadores and R-57) takes you to posh Portillo, close to the Argentine border.
TRANSPORT AND EQUIPMENT RENTAL
The least expensive way to go skiing is to stay in Santiago and visit
the slopes for the day. A number of minibus
companies offer daily services to the resorts, including Ski Total,
Apoquindo 4900 (2 2246 0156, skitotal.cl). Buses leave
8am–8.30am daily for El Colorado, La Parva (return ticket to either
CH$13,000) and Valle Nevado (CH$15,000), and at the same times on
Wednesdays and Saturdays to Portillo (CH$23,000); buses return from the
resorts at 5pm. Ski/snowboard equipment rental starts at CH$21,000 for
the full kit.
If you intend to drive up yourself, note traffic is only allowed up the road to Farellones until noon, and back down to Santiago from 2pm onwards; tyre chains are often required but seldom used; they can be rented on the way up.
Each resort has its own lift ticket costing around CH$43,000 in high season and CH$38,000 in low.
THE RESORTS
All of the resorts have ski schools, English-speaking instructors, and equipment rental outlets.
El Colorado elcolorado.cl. Linked to Farellones by ski lift
(when there is enough snow), as well as by road, El Colorado has
fifteen lifts and 22 runs. The busiest resort, it is particularly
good for beginners, with a wide range of blue and green runs. The
resort’s base is known as Villa El Colorado, and includes several
apart-hotels, restaurants and pubs.
La Parva laparva.cl.
La Parva has mostly red runs, huge areas of backcountry skiing and a
classy feel. The skiing here is often excellent, with some very long
intermediate cruising runs and a vertical drop of nearly 1000m. The resort has thirty pistes and fourteen lifts, but
limited accommodation facilities.
Portillo skiportillo.com. Portillo is a sophisticated
place in a beautiful lake setting, with no condominiums and just one
hotel – the restored 1940s-vintage Hotel Portillo. The ski-runs are world-class, and it’s best
known for its endless off-piste options; it’s therefore well-suited
to advanced level skiiers. There are twelve lifts, plus extensive
snow-making equipment. Portillo is avidly kid-friendly and its ski
school is routinely ranked one of the world’s best.
Valle Nevado vallenevado.com. On the whole, it’s worth the
short extra journey from Farellones to reach Valle Nevado, which
often has better snow than El Colorado, a wider range of pistes
among its 27 runs, and more modern lifts, including a new gondola. It also
has first-class hotels and some good restaurants and is the clear
favourite for snowboarders.
ACCOMMODATION
Alongside the hotels listed below, you can also rent an apartment –
this is often a more economical option, particularly if you negotiate
with private owners. Chilean Ski (www.chileanski.com) has
a selection. The accommodation is aimed chiefly at foreign visitors and
quoted in US dollars.
Condominio Nueva La Parva La Parva, Tres Valles 2 2964
2100, laparva.cl. The only commercial place to
stay in La Parva with a range of apartments – each featuring a
kitchen – sleeping six or eight. Note that you must book for at
least a week. Six-person apartment per week US$6550
Hotel Posada de Farellones El Colorado, Tres Valles 2 2248
7672, skifarellones.com. The best place to stay
near El Colorado, this hotel has smart en suites, a Jacuzzi and a
good restaurant. Prices include half board and transport to the
slopes. US$240
Hotel Valle Nevado Valle Nevado, Tres Valles 2 2477
7701, vallenevado.com. This hotel has classy en
suites with panoramic mountain views, a gym and spa, and an
excellent restaurant. You have direct “ski-in, ski-out” access to
the slopes, and heli-skiing is also on offer. Rates include half
board and ski lift pass; during high season you have to book a
minimum seven nights. US$560
Lodge Andes Camino La Capilla 662, Farellones, Tres Valles
2 2264 9899, lodgeandes.cl. A sociable lodge with simple private rooms and shared bathrooms,
as well as four-, six- and eight-bed dorms (including a women-only
one) with bunk beds and lockers; both rooms and dorms have central
heating. There is also a decent restaurant and bar, a pool table,
multilingual staff, and a lounge with a TV and a log fire. Rates
include half board. Dorms CH$35,000, doubles CH$85,000
Hotel Portillo Portillo 2 2361 7000, skiportillo.com. The only hotel in Portillo,
perched by the shores of the Laguna del Inca, offers the hippest ski
scene in South America. There is a wide range of (very expensive)
accommodation options, from simple bunks in the Inca Lodge to suites
with stunning views. All rates are per person and include seven
nights’ accommodation, ski pass and full board; usually you must
book for a Saturday to Saturday ‘ski week’, although they do run the
occasional short-stay promotion. The hotel also opens in the summer
as a base for walks around the lake or stopover on the route to/from
Argentina (from US$64/person/night). Inca Lodge US$1200, doubles US$3850
BACKCOUNTRY SKIING
There are some great backcountry options for skiers who want to escape
the resorts. Ski Arpa, near the city of
San Esteban, a 2hr drive from Santiago, offers cat skiing (off-trail
skiing accessed via a snowcat vehicle, rather than a ski lift) and
snowboarding in two beautiful valleys, el Arpa and la Honda, which lie
to the west of Argentina’s Cerro Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the
Andes. Note there is no equipment hire available. A full-day here
(featuring four runs with a guide) costs US$350. Santiago Adventures
(2 2244 2750, santiagoadventures.com) can organize transport and
accommodation nearby; the company also offers (pricey) heli skiing
trips.
Santuario de Santa Teresa de los Andes
About 10km from Los Andes • Daily 8am–6.30pm • Free •
34 240 1900, santuarioteresadelosandes.cl
The Santuario de Santa Teresa de los Andes is a huge, modern church built in 1987 to house the remains of Santa Teresa, who became Chile’s first saint when she was canonized in 1993. Her shrine attracts thousands of pilgrims each year, especially on July 13, her feast day.
< Back to Los Andes and around
Museo Arqueológico
Av Santa Teresa 398 • Tues–Sun 10am–6.30pm • CH$1000
The Museo Arqueológico, based in a lovely old house, has an impressive collection of pre-Columbian pottery, petroglyphs and skulls, and an astonishing mummy from the Atacama Desert, as well as more recent exhibits that date from the Independence period.
< Back to Los Andes and around
Cerro de la Virgen
If you’re feeling energetic, climb Cerro de la Virgen, the hill rising behind the town. It takes about an hour to reach the top following the path from the picnic site on Independencia. The views are wonderful, especially just before sunset when the whole valley is bathed in a clear, golden light.
< Back to Los Andes and around
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: LOS ANDES AND AROUND
By bus Frequent buses (1hr 20min) depart from Terminal Los Héroes in Santiago, dropping you at the bus station on Membrillar, one block east of the main square; most of them stop at the Santuario de Santa Teresa en route.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Casa Vieja Maipu 151 34 246
0367. Classic parrilla style restaurant, with occasional live music,
brisk service and plates piled high with beef. Fish dishes such as
corvina in seafood sauce (CH$12,000) are also available, but most
people share the two-person parrillada, or
mixed barbecue (CH$25,000). Mon–Sat
1pm–midnight, Sun 1–6pm.
Hotel Plaza Manuel Rodriguez 368 34 240
2157, hotelplazalosandes.cl. If you want to stay
the night, Hotel Plaza is a decent choice.
The rooms – which have private bathrooms and TVs – are comfortable,
if nothing to write home about. There’s also a good restaurant.
CH$60,000
Inca Hoteles Av Argentina Oriente 11 34 234
5500, incahoteles.cl. Situated near the Cerro de
la Virgen, this is the best place to stay in town, with pleasant
rooms, good breakfast and an outdoor pool for the summer months.
CH$97,000