3Entertainment
Mumbai has an exciting live-music scene, some terrific theatres, an emerging network of comedy clubs and, of course, cinemas and sporting action.
Consult Time Out Mumbai (www.timeout.com/mumbai) and Insider (https://insider.in/mumbai) for events and/or live-music listings. Unfortunately, Hindi films aren’t shown with English subtitles. You can book movies, theatre and sporting events online with Book My Show (https://in.bookmyshow.com).
BOLLYWOOD DREAMS
Mumbai is the glittering epicentre of India’s gargantuan Hindi-language film industry. The Lumière brothers screened the first film ever shown in India at the Watson Hotel in Mumbai in 1896, and beginning with the 1913 silent epic Raja Harishchandra (with an all-male cast, some in drag) and the first talkie, Alam Ara (1931), Bollywood now churns out more than 1000 films a year – doubling Hollywood’s output, and not surprising considering it has a captive audience of one-sixth of the world’s population.
Every part of India has its regional film industry, but Bollywood continues to entrance the nation with its escapist formula in which all-singing, all-dancing lovers fight and conquer the forces keeping them apart. These days, Hollywood-inspired thrillers and action extravaganzas vie for moviegoers’ attention alongside the more family-oriented saccharine formulas.
Bollywood stars can attain near-godlike status in India and star-spotting is a favourite pastime in Mumbai’s posher establishments. You can also see the stars’ homes as well as a film/TV studio with Bollywood Tours (map Google map; 
%9820255202; www.bollywoodtours.in; 8 Lucky House, Goa St, Fort; per person half-/full-day tour ₹8140/12,580; 
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat), but you’re not guaranteed to see a dance number and you may spend much of the tour in traffic.
oRoyal Opera HouseOPERA
(map Google map; %022-23668888; www.royaloperahouse.in; Mama Parmanand Marg, Girgaon; h10am-6pm)
India’s only surviving opera house reopened to suitably dramatic fanfare with a 2016 performance by Mumbai-born British soprano Patricia Rozario, after a meticulous six-year restoration project that saw the regal address returned to full British-rule glory. Architect Abha Narain Lambah combed through old photographs of gilded ceilings, stained-glass windows and a baroque Indo-European foyer to restore the three-level auditorium.
QuarterLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; %8329110638; www.thequarter.in; Mathew Rd, Royal Opera House, Girgaon; h10pm-1am)
The Royal Opera House’s signature entertainment venue (besides the Opera House itself, that is), the Quarter counts unique spaces like an airy, glass-fronted cafe and mozzarella bar, a Creole-cuisine-inspired restaurant and, most interestingly, a live-music venue evocative of a 1950s art deco jazz bar.
Canvas LaughCOMEDY
(www.canvaslaughclub.com; 3rd fl, Palladium Mall, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel; tickets ₹200-750)
A popular comedy club that hosts around 50 shows per month, with twice-nightly programs on weekends (most comedians use English). It’s 900m west of Lower Parel train station inside the High Street Phoenix shopping complex. Book tickets online.
National Centre for the Performing ArtsTHEATRE, LIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; NCPA; www.ncpamumbai.com; NCPA Marg, Nariman Point)
This vast cultural centre is the hub of Mumbai’s highbrow music, theatre and dance scene. In any given week, it might host experimental plays, poetry readings, photography exhibitions, a jazz band from Chicago or Indian classical music. Many performances are free. The box office (map; %022-66223724; h9am-7pm) is at the end of NCPA Marg.
Prithvi TheatreTHEATRE
(map Google map; %022-26149546; www.prithvitheatre.org; Juhu Church Rd, Juhu)
A Juhu institution that’s a great place to see both Hindi- and English-language theatre or an art-house film, with the Prithvi Cafe (map Google map; light meals ₹40-180; h10am-10.30pm) for drinks. Its excellent theatre festival in November showcases contemporary Indian theatre and includes international productions.
Regal CinemaCINEMA
(map Google map; %022-22021017; www.regalcinema.in; Colaba Causeway, Regal Circle, Apollo Bunder, Colaba; tickets ₹80-250)
A faded art deco masterpiece – Mumbai’s oldest – that’s good for Hollywood and Indian blockbusters. Dating to 1933, it was the first centrally air-conditioned theatre in Asia.
Liberty CinemaCINEMA
(map Google map; %022-22084521; www.facebook.com/TheLibertyCinema; 41/42 New Marine Lines, Fort; htickets ₹100-200)
The stunning art deco Liberty was once the queen of Hindi film – think red-carpet openings with Dev Anand. It fell on hard times in recent years, but is on the rebound and is now hosting films again. It’s near Bombay Hospital.
QUEER MUMBAI
Although homosexuality was decriminalised by India’s highest court in 2018, Mumbai’s LGBTIQ scene is still quite underground, especially for women, but it’s gaining momentum. No dedicated LGBTIQ bars/clubs have opened yet, but gay-friendly ‘safe house’ venues often host private gay parties (announced on Gay Bombay, www.gaybombay.org).
Gay Bombay is a great place to start, with event listings including meetups in Bandra, GB-hosted bar and film nights (including somewhat-regular gay Saturday nights at Liquid Lounge in Girgaum Chowpatty), plus hiking trips, picnics and other queer-community info. Following are some other useful resources.
Gaylaxy (www.gaylaxymag.com) India’s best gay e-zine; well worth consulting and has lots of Mumbai content.
Gaysi (www.gaysifamily.com) Mumbai-based lifestyle e-zine.
Humsafar Trust (map; %022-26673800; www.humsafar.org; 3rd fl, Manthan Plaza Nehru Rd, Vakola Santa Cruz East; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri) Mumbai’s most well-known LGBTIQ community organisation. It’s also closely connected to the erratically published but pioneering magazine Bombay Dost (www.bombaydost.co.in).
Kashish Mumbai International Queer Film Festival (%022-28618239; www.mumbaiqueerfest.com; hMay) Excellent annual event with a mix of Indian and foreign films; in 2018, 140 films from 45 countries were featured, including 33 LGBTIQ films from India.
LABIA (Lesbian & Bisexuals in Action; www.sites.google.com/site/labiacollective/home) Lesbian and bi support group based in Mumbai; provides a counselling service for women.
Queer Azaadi Mumbai (www.facebook.com/qam.mumbaipride) Organises Mumbai’s Pride Parade (www.mumbaipride.in), which is usually held in early February.
Queer Ink (www.queer-ink.com) Online publisher with excellent books, DVDs and merchandise. Also hosts a monthly arts event with speakers, workshops, poetry, comedy, music and a marketplace.
RAGE-by D’kloset Gay parties and events organised via Instagram (www.instagram.com/ragebydkloset).
Salvation Star Community on Facebook (www.facebook.com/SalvationStar) and Twitter (@SalvationStar) that organises and promotes queer events and parties.
7Shopping
Mumbai is India’s great marketplace, with some of the country’s best shopping. Spend a day at the markets north of CSMT for the classic Mumbai shopping experience. Booksellers set up daily on the footpaths along the main thoroughfare between Colaba and Fort. Snap up a bargain backpacking wardrobe at Fashion Street (map Google map; MG Rd, Marine Lines; hhours vary). Kemp’s Corner and Kala Ghoda have good shops for designer threads.
7Colaba
CottonworldCLOTHING
(map Google map; www.cottonworld.net; Mandlik Marg; h10.30am-8pm)
A great shop for stylish Indian-Western-hybrid goods made from cotton, linen and natural materials. Think Indian Gap, but cooler.
PhillipsANTIQUES
(map Google map; www.phillipsantiques.com; Wodehouse Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Art deco and colonial-era furniture, wooden ceremonial masks, silver, Victorian glass, plus high-quality reproductions of old photos, maps and paintings.
CloveCONCEPT STORE
(map Google map; www.clovethestore.com; Churchill Chambers, JA Allana Marg; h11am-8pm)
Under the discerning eye of gourmet entrepreneur Samyukta Nair, this Colaba concept store occupies a late-19th-century art deco building chock-full of homegrown designer homewares (gorgeous coffee mugs, copper and clay dishware), jewellery, small-batch body scrubs and top-end designer chappals (sandals), anarkali (umbrella-flared dresses) and tunics for women, plus sleepwear for both sexes and children.
Nappa DoriDESIGN
(map Google map; www.nappadori.com; Shop 2, Sunny House, Merewether Rd; h10.30am-9pm)
This very hip designer-leather shop from Delhi features a near-all-India lineup of carefully curated wallets, passport holders, truck-style travel cases, notebooks and other stylish writing and travel essentials (only the Novesta shoes aren’t Indian, they hail from Slovakia). Discerning travellers and writers – take a look.
7Fort Area & Churchgate
oSabyasachiCLOTHING
(map Google map; www.sabyasachi.com; Ador House, 6 K Dubash Marg, Fort; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)
It’s worth popping in to this high-end traditional garment shop to see the space itself, a gorgeous, cavernous, rose-oil-scented stunner chock-full of owner and designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s collection of chandeliers, antiques, ceramics, paintings and carpets. As far as retail goes, it’s unlike anything you have ever seen.
oKulture ShopDESIGN
(map Google map; www.kultureshop.in; 9 Examiner Press, 115 Nagindas Master Rd, Kala Ghoda; h11am-8pm)
Mumbai’s coolest design shop has thankfully arrived in South Mumbai! Fittingly, the Pop Art cool kid from Bandra (map; 241 Hill Rd, Bandra West; h11am-8pm) has set up shop in Kala Ghoda, where its thought-provoking and conceptually daring art prints, notebooks, coffee mugs, stationery, T-shirts and other immensely desirable objets d’art from a cutting-edge collective of Indian artists will leave your head spinning.
ChimanlalsARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map; www.chimanlals.com; A2 Taj Bldg, Wallace St, Fort; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat)
The beautiful traditional printed papers here will make you start writing letters.
NicobarHOMEWARES, CLOTHING
(map Google map; www.nicobar.com; 10 Ropewalk Ln, Kala Ghoda; h11am-8pm) This new and excellent high-end boutique from the same folks who brought us Good Earth (map Google map; www.goodearth.in; 2 Reay House, Colaba; h11am-8pm)
is a great spot to pick up carefully curated homewares, travel totes and select Indian hipsterware.
Bombay Shirt CompanyCLOTHING
(map Google map; %022-40043455; www.bombayshirts.com; ground fl, 3 Sassoon Bldg, Fabindia Ln, Kala Ghoda; shirts from ₹2000; h10.30am-9pm)
A trendy, bespoke shirt tailor for men and women. You can customise everything – collars, buttons, cuffs and twill tapes. The results are stunning and the prices a fraction of those back home (unless home is Vietnam). Shirts take two weeks, and the business will deliver or ship internationally. It’s also in Bandra (map; %022-26056125; www.bombayshirts.com; ground fl, Kamal Vishrantee Kutir, 24th Rd;; shirts from ₹2000; h10.30am-9pm).
Bombay PaperieARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map; %022-66358171; www.bombaypaperie.com; 63 Bombay Samachar Marg, Fort; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Championing a dying art, this fascinating shop sells handmade, cotton-based paper crafted into charming cards, sculptures and lampshades.
Chetana Book CentreBOOKS
(map Google map; www.chetana.com; 34 K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 11.30-7pm Sun) This great spirituality bookshop has lots of books on Hinduism, yoga and philosophy, and the attached restaurant (thalis ₹500-635; h12.30-3pm, 4-7pm & 7.30 to 11pm)
does excellent Gujarati and Rajasthani thalis (₹499 to ₹635).
7Kalbadevi to Mahalaxmi
oChor BazaarANTIQUES
(map Google map; Mutton St, Kumbharwada; h10am-9pm)
Chor Bazaar is known for antiques, though be wary of reproductions. The main area of activity is Mutton St, where shops specialise in these ‘antiques’ and miscellaneous junk. Dhabu St, to the east, is lined with fine leather goods. It’s an atmospheric spot for an afternoon browse, especially if you are looking for household trinkets and other nontouristy bric-a-brac.
oHaji Mohammad Bashir Oil ShopHEALTH & WELLNESS
(map Google map; 426A Hamidiya Masjid, Bapu Khote Rd, Bhuleshwar; h10am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9pm Sun)
Worth a visit as much for the spectacle if not to buy, this near-century-old traditional oil shop still hand-presses its medicinal, cooking and massage oils (often to order) with a sesame wood and metal press. The menu reaches long and wide (turmeric, avocado, sandalwood, neem, tulsi, almond, jojoba, cardamom – the list goes on and on, priced per kilo from ₹400 to ₹25,000).
It’s attached to the lovely Hamidiyah Masjid (mosque).
oPlay ClanGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(map Google map; www.theplayclan.com; Shop 1 & 2, Royal Opera House, Parmanand Marg, Girguam; h11am-7pm)
Kitschy, design-y goods such as stylish embroidered T-shirts, funky coffee mugs and coasters, and superhip graphic art, including beaded embroidered art and illustrative wood prints that are pricey but unique.
M/S KN AjaniHOMEWARES
(map Google map; Shop 102, Krishna Galli, Swadeshi Market, Kalbadevi Rd, Kalbadevi; hnoon-7pm Mon-Sat)
One of Mumbai’s oldest shops and born of a dying breed, this family-run retailer kicked off in 1918. Today, friendly grandson Paresh still hawks the family jewels: brass, carbon-steel and aluminium scissors, nutcrackers, locks and knives inside the otherwise textile-driven Swadeshi Market. It’s certainly not a conventional souvenir, but it’s immensely satisfying to not buy your scissors at an office-supply shop.
No-Mad Fabric ShopHOMEWARES
(map Google map; %022-22091787; www.no-mad.in; 3C-209, 1st fl, Mangaldas Market bldg, Kitchen Garden Ln; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)
One of Mumbai’s hottest new brands, this small showroom, overseen by Nandi the Holy Cow in logo, art and design, is an interior-design oasis in Mangaldas Market. Pick up colourful, India-inspired cocktail napkins, handbags, pillow covers, throws, candles, incense, and copper and brass serving trays, among other stylish items.
No BordersCLOTHING
(map Google map; www.facebook.com/nobordersshop; 47G, 1st fl, Khotachi Wadi Ln, Kotachiwadi; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun)
This top-end shop occupies the former studio of fashion designer James Ferreira, located inside his 200-year-old Kotachi-wadi bungalow. It curates designer threads from ethnic South Asian tastemakers as well as contemporary Indian, Norwegian and Israeli fashion designers, among others.
Lalbaug MarketSPICES
(Putibal Chawl, Dr Baba Saheb Ambedkar Rd, Lalbaug; h11am-4.30pm Mon, 9am-7pm Tue-Sun)
You could buy your packaged-for-tourists spices at hassle-y Crawford Market; or, go where Mumbaikars go, which is this fragrant market in Dadar that’s considered top-rate for fresh, unadulterated hand-ground powdered goodness, fresh chillies and other chef essentials.
ShrujanARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map; %022-23521693; www.shrujan.org; Krishnabad Bldg, 43 Bhulabhai Desai Marg, Breach Candy; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) 
S
Selling the intricate embroidery work of women in villages across Kutch, Gujarat, the nonprofit Shrujan aims to help women earn a livelihood while preserving the spectacular embroidery of the area. The sophisticated clothing, wall hangings and purses make great gifts.
Poster StuffART
(map Google map; %8976605743; 113 Mutton St, Kumbharwada; h11am-9pm)
Haji Abu’s small Chor Bazaar shop offers a cornucopia of vintage Bollywood posters, lobby cards and show cards dating to the 1930s (originals and reprints), some 500,000 in total curated from his grandfather’s much larger collection. Prices start at ₹400 on up to ₹400,000. For Bollywood art buffs, this is your Holy Grail.
7Western Suburbs
oIndian HippyART
(map Google map; %8080822022; www.hippy.in; 17C Sherly Rajan Rd, off Carter Rd, Bandra West; portraits ₹7500-15,000; hby appointment)
Indian Hippy will put your name in lights, with custom-designed Bollywood posters hand-painted on canvas by the original studio artists (a dying breed since the advent of digital illustrating). Bring or email a photo and your imagination (or let staff guide you). Also sells vinyl LP record clocks, vintage posters and all manner of frankly bizarre Bollywood-themed products. Ships worldwide.
Kishore Silk HouseCLOTHING, HANDICRAFTS
(Dedhia Estate, 5/353 Bhandarkar Rd, Matunga East; h10am-8.30pm Tue-Sun)
Handwoven saris (from ₹300) and dhotis (from ₹250) from Tamil Nadu and Kerala.
High Street PhoenixMALL
(www.highstreetphoenix.com; 462 Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel; h11am-10pm)
High Street Phoenix, one of India’s first and largest shopping malls, and its mall-within-a-mall, luxury-oriented Palladium, is an indoor/outdoor retail orgy that hosts top shops, great restaurants, fun bars and clubs, a 20-lane bowling alley and an IMAX cineplex. It’s also where you go when you want a few horn-free hours.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
For a city of its size, Mumbai affords few serious dangers and annoyances. However, it’s worth being mindful of the following points:
The city has a well-documented history of terrorism. Be vigilant – if you notice something off, or tell-tale signs like unattended bags, tell the police as soon as possible.
Be alert for pickpocketing in crowded areas like Crawford Market, Mahalaxmi Temple, the Gateway of India and on crowded trains.
INTERNET ACCESS
While cybercafes are increasingly scarce, all but the simplest hotels, restaurants, cafes and bars now have wi-fi. Commercial establishments generally require a connection via social-media accounts or via a mobile-phone number, to which a unique one-time password (OPT) is sent.
The Maharashtra government also supports a wide network of over 500 public hot spots known as Aaple Sarkar Mumbai Wi-Fi. Check out www.aaplesarkar.maharashtra.gov.in/file/Mumbai-Wifi-hotspots.pdf to locate the one nearest you. RailWire (www.railwire.co.in) also offers a signal at select train stations, part of an over 700-station initiative throughout India.
WORTH A TRIP
SANJAY GANDHI NATIONAL PARK
It’s hard to believe that within 1½ hours of the teeming metropolis you can be surrounded by this 104-sq-km protected tropical forest (%022-28868686; https://sgnp.maharashtra.gov.in; Borivali; adult/child ₹53/28, vehicle ₹177-266; h7.30am-6pm Tue-Sun, last entry 4pm). Here, bright flora, birds, butterflies and elusive wild leopards replace pollution and concrete, all surrounded by forested hills on the city’s northern edge. Urban development has muscled in on the fringes of the park, but its heart is very peaceful.
The park’s most intriguing option, the Kanheri Caves (https://sgnp.maharashtra.gov.in; Borivali; Indian/foreigner ₹25/300; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is a set of 109 dwellings and monastic structures for Buddhist monks 6km inside the park. The caves, not all of which are accessible, were developed over 1000 years, beginning in the 1st century BC, as part of a sprawling monastic university complex. Avoid the zoo-like lion and tiger ‘safari’ as the animals are in cages and enclosures.
Inside the park’s main northern entrance is an information centre with a small exhibition on the park’s wildlife. The best time to see birds is October to April and butterflies from August to November. Activities can now also be booked online.
The nearest station is Borivali, served by trains on the Western Railway line from Churchgate station (₹15 to ₹165, 30 minutes, frequent).
MEDICAL SERVICES
Bombay Hospital (map; %022-22067676; www.bombayhospital.com; 12 New Marine Lines, Marine Lines; h24hr) A private hospital with the latest medical technology and equipment.
Breach Candy Hospital (map; %022-23672888, emergency 022-23667809; www.breachcandyhospital.org; 60A, Bhulabhai Desai Marg, Breach Candy) The best hospital in Mumbai, if not India. It’s 2km northwest of Girgaum Chowpatty.
Royal Chemists (map; www.royalchemists.com; 89A Queen’s Chambers, Maharshi Karve Rd, Marine Lines; h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Has delivery services.
Sahakari Bhandar Chemist (map; Colaba Chamber, ground fl, Colaba Causeway, Colaba; h10am-8.30pm)
MONEY
ATMs are everywhere, and foreign-exchange offices are also plentiful. There are numerous Citibank branches, including a handy Fort branch (map; Bombay Mutual Bldg, 293 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort), which is handy for its larger, ₹20,000 withdrawal limits. Thomas Cook has a branch in the Fort area with foreign exchange.
POST
Post office (GPO; map; www.indiapost.gov.in; Walchand Hirachand Marg, Fort; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun) The main post office is an imposing building beside CSMT. Opposite gate 4 of the post office in front of Marine Supply is Ashok Packingwala (map; %9323693870; opp GPO, Gate 4, Walchand Hirachand Marg, Fort) – parcel-wallahs who will stitch up your parcel (for between ₹60 and ₹300). There’s also a convenient branch in Colaba (map; Henry Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat).
Blue Dart/DHL (map; %022-22049333; www.bluedart.com; ground fl, Shri Mahavir Chamber, Cawasji Patel St, Fort; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) International courier services.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Indiatourism (Government of India Tourist Office; map; %022-22074333; www.incredibleindia.com; ground fl, Air India Bldg, Vidhan Bhavan Marg, Narimen Point; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Provides information for the entire country, as well as contacts for Mumbai guides and homestays.
MTDC Tourist Office (Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation; map; %022-22845678; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; 4th fl, Apeejay House, 3 Dinsha Vachha Marg, Churchgate; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month) The MTDC’s head office has helpful staff and lots of pamphlets and information on Maharashtra, as well as bookings for MTDC hotels. It’s also the only MTDC office of note that accepts credit cards. There are additional booths at Apollo Bunder and Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation; map; %022-22622859; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, Fort; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month).
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Akbar Travels (map; %022-22823434; www.akbartravels.com; 30 Alipur Trust Bldg, Colaba Causeway, Colaba; h10am-10pm) Extremely helpful and can long-distance book car/drivers and buses. There’s another branch in Fort (map; %022-22633434; 167/169 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat).
Magnum International Travel & Tours (map; %022-61559700; www.magnuminternational.com; 10 Henry Rd, Colaba; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Handy Colaba travel agency.
Thomas Cook (map; %022-48795009; www.thomascook.in; 324 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Flight and hotel bookings, plus foreign exchange.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Mumbai’s carbon-neutral Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport (map; %022-66851010; www.csia.in; Santa Cruz East), about 30km from the city centre, was recently modernised to the tune of US$2 billion. Now handling all international arrivals is the impressive, remodelled international Terminal 2 (T2), which includes India’s largest public-art program (a skylighted, 3.2km multistorey Art Wall along moving walkways, boasting over 5000 pieces of art from every corner of India). The international terminal has its own app (Android/iPhone; Mumbai T2 App).
Domestic flights operate out of both the new T2 and the older Terminal 1 (T1), also known locally as Santa Cruz Airport, 5km away. An interterminal fixed-rate taxi service (non-AC/AC ₹230/260 from T1 to T2, ₹230/250 from T2 to T1) operates between the terminals. Both terminals have ATMs and foreign-exchange counters, and T2 also houses the luxurious Niranta Transit Hotel (%022-67296729; www.nirantahotels.com; s/d 4 hrs ₹5510/5900, 7 hrs ₹7080/7670, 24 hrs 11,529/13,800; 
i
W). There’s left luggage near the hotel.
Air India (map; %1800-1801407, 022-22023031; www.airindia.com; Air India Bldg, cnr Marine Dr & Madame Cama Rd, Nariman Point; h9.15am-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 9.15am-6.15pm Fri, 9.15am-1pm & 1.45-5pm Sat), Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com) and Vistara (www.airvistara.com) operate out of T2, while GoAir (www.goair.in), IndiGo (www.goindigo.in) and SpiceJet (www.spicejet.com), among others, operate out of T1 – be sure to check ahead for any changes on the ground. Travel agencies and the airlines’ websites are usually best for booking flights.
BUS
Numerous private operators and state governments run long-distance buses to and from Mumbai.
Long-distance government-run buses depart from the Mumbai Central bus terminal (map; %1800-221250, enquiries 022-23024076; Jehangir Boman Behram Marg, RBI Staff Colony) right by Mumbai Central train station. They’re cheaper and more frequent than private services, but standards are usually lower with the exception of semiluxury ShivShahi and luxury Shivneri services (always look for those first). The website of the Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (MSRTC; %022-23023900; www.msrtc.gov.in) has online schedules and booking at https://public.msrtcors.com/ticket_booking/index.php, though you’ll need a resident to book for you if you don’t have an Indian credit card.
Private buses are usually more comfortable and simpler to book (if a bit more costly). Many normally depart from Dr Anadrao Nair Rd near Mumbai Central train station, but that has stopped due to metro construction without any timeline for ever returning. If you are in that area, National NTT/CTC (map; %022-23015652; Dr Anadrao Nair Rd, RBI Staff Colony; h6am-11pm) remains open behind the metro construction and is a reliable ticketing agent.
The most centralised place to catch private buses these days is around Dadar TT Circle (Dadar East) under the flyover of the same name (free transport is usually provided to both by ticketing agents), but with the exception of the MSRTC Shivneri buses to Pune (www.msrtc.org.in; Dadar TT Flyover, Dadar East), you are going to need help to find your bus. The flyover is lined on both sides with private ticketing agents – make sure you arrive early and get specific indications from them where to find your bus. Neeta Tours & Travels (%022-24162565; www.neetabus.in; Shop 9, opp Dadar Post Office, Dr Ambedkar Rd, Dadar East) is a good place to start.
Internet ticketing resources such as redBus (www.redbus.in) are in play, though some sites still require Indian mobile numbers and/or domestic payment options – most foreigners will still need to visit the ticketing agents (or have an Indian friend buy your ticket). Be sure to check your departure point (often called ‘pickup point’) as the reality is that private bus companies depart from numerous points around the city.
In addition to Dr Anadrao Nair Road (map; RBI Staff Colony) near Mumbai Central bus station and along both sides of Dr Baba Saheb Ambedkar Rd near the Dadar TT Flyover (Dr Baba Saheb Ambedkar Rd) in Dadar East, you’ll also find private long-distance ticket agents near Paltan Road (map; Sitaram Bldg, F-Block, opp Paltan Rd) in Fort.
Private buses to Goa are more convenient; these vary in price from as little as ₹760 (a bad choice) to ₹3000. Many leave from way out in the suburbs, but government-run Kadamba Transport (map; %9969561146; www.goakadamba.com; 5 Mahapalika Marg, Fort; h7.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) is convenient for the centre, leaving from in front of Azad Maidan. The trip takes 14 hours.
Fares to popular destinations (like Goa) are up to 75% higher during holiday periods.
MAJOR LONG-DISTANCE BUS ROUTES
| DESTINATION | PRIVATE NON-AC/AC SLEEPER (₹) | GOVERNMENT NON-AC (₹) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ahmedabad | 500-2000/670-2500 | N/A | 7-12 |
| Aurangabad | 650-1100/550-2500 | from 560 (four daily) | 9-11 |
| Hyderabad | 1200-2000/1310-3000 | N/A | 16 |
| Mahabaleshwar | 1550/450-1349 | from 300 (four daily) | 7-8 |
| Murud | 2500 (seats only) | from 210 (eight daily) | 8-10 |
| Nashik | 350-1500/400-2510 | from 240 (12 per day, 6am-10.45pm) | 13-16 |
| Panaji (Panjim) | 475-1500/1430-2500 | N/A | 14-16 |
| Pune | 600-2000/350-3000 | from 210 (half-hourly, 6.35am-12.30am) | 3-5 |
| Udaipur | 600-1400/1210-1810 | N/A | 14-17 |
TRAIN
Three train systems operate out of Mumbai, but the most important services for travellers are Central Railway and Western Railway. Tickets for either system can be bought from any station that has computerised ticketing.
Central Railway (www.cr.indianrailways.gov.in) – handling services to the east, south, plus a few trains to the north – operates from CSMT (also known as ‘VT’). Foreign-tourist-quota tickets and Indrail passes can be bought at Counter 4 of the reservation centre (map; %139; www.cr.indianrailways.gov.in; Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus Area, Fort; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun). There is a prepaid taxi scheme near the MTDC tourist information booth. It’s ₹160 to Colaba, ₹360 to Bandra, ₹430 to the domestic terminal and ₹500 to the international terminal.
Some Central Railway trains depart from Dadar (D), a few stations north of CSMT, or Lokmanya Tilak (LTT), 16km north of CSMT.
Western Railway (www.wr.indianrailways.gov.in) has services to the north from Mumbai Central train station, usually called Bombay Central (BCT). The passenger reservation office (map; %139; www.wr.indianrailways.gov.in; Station Bldg, Vithaldas Thackersey Marg, Churchgate; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun), opposite Churchgate station, has foreign-tourist-quota tickets.
Mumbai’s local rail infrastructure has come under fire in recent years. The collapse of Andheri’s Gokhale overbridge connecting Andheri West and East stations in 2018 killed two, a stampede killed 23 at Prabhadevi station in 2017, and there was a skywalk cave-in at Charni Road, also in 2017. A system-wide structural audit was underway at the time of writing – and for good reason, as 18,847 people have died riding the rails since 2013!
MAJOR TRAINS FROM MUMBAI
| DESTINATION | TRAIN NO & NAME | SAMPLE FARE (₹) | DURATION (HR) | DEPARTURE |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Agra | 12137 Punjab Mail | 585/1555/2250/3855 (A) | 22 | 7.35pm CSMT |
| Ahmedabad | 12901 Gujarat Mail | 315/815/1150/1940 (A) | 8½ | 10.05pm BCT |
| 12009 Shatabdi Exp | 1030/1885 East | 6½ | 6.25am BCT | |
| Aurangabad | 11401 Nandigram Exp | 235/630/900/1510 (A) | 7 | 4.35pm CSMT |
| 17617 Tapovan Exp | 140/505 (C) | 7 | 6.15am CSMT | |
| Bengaluru | 11301 Udyan Exp | 500/1355/1975/3370 (A) | 24 | 8.10am CSMT |
| Chennai | 12163 Chennai Exp | 570/1505/2175/3720 (A) | 23½ | 8.30pm CSMT |
| Delhi | 12951 Mumbai Rajdhani | 2725/4075/4730 (D) | 15¾ | 5pm BCT |
| Hyderabad | 12701 Hussainsagar Exp | 425/1075/1555/2625 (A) | 14½ | 9.50pm CSMT |
| Indore | 12961 Avantika Exp | 440/1165/1660/2815 (A) | 14 | 7.10pm BCT |
| Jaipur | 12955 Mumbai Central Jaipur Superfast Exp (MMCT JP SF) | 535/1420/2050/3495 (A) | 18 | 6.50pm BCT |
| Kochi | 16345 Netravati Exp | 615/1655/2430 (B) | 27 | 11.40am LTT |
| Madgaon (Goa) | 10103 Mandovi Exp | 390/1070/1540/2610 (A) | 13 | 7.10am CSMT |
| 12133 Mangalore Exp | 420/1150/1590 (B) | 10¾ | 10.02pm CSMT | |
| 11085 Mao Doubledecker | 840 (F) | 12 | 5.33am Wed, Fri & Sun LTT | |
| Pune | 11301 Udyan Exp | 140/495/700/1165 (A) | 3½ | 8.10am CSMT |
Station abbreviations: CSMT (Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus); BCT (Mumbai Central); LTT (Lokmanya Tilak)
Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC; (B) sleeper/3AC/2AC; (C) second class/CC; (D) 3AC/2AC/1AC; East CC/Exec CC; (F) CC
8Getting Around
M-Indicator (http://m-indicator.soft112.com) is an invaluable app for Mumbai public transit – from train schedules to rickshaw fares it covers the whole shebang.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Terminal 1
Autorickshaw If it’s not rush hour (7am to 11am and 4pm to 8pm), catch an autorickshaw (between ₹25 and ₹48) to Vile Parle station, where you can get a train to Churchgate (from ₹10, 45 minutes).
Ride-share An off-peak UberGo from the airport runs ₹220 to Bandra Kurla Complex or Bandra West, ₹400 to Fort and ₹425 to Colaba. The Uber and Ola pickup point is a straight shot out the arrivals door to sections Z1–7 in the parking lot (Uber can hot-spot those without a connection from their information booth).
Taxi There’s a prepaid taxi counter in the arrivals hall. A non-AC/AC taxi with one bag costs ₹570/695 to Colaba or Fort and ₹295/350 to Bandra (a bit more at night).
Terminal 2
Autorickshaw Although available, they only go as far south as Bandra; walk out of the terminal and follow the signs. Prices are ₹50 to ₹60 to Vila Parle, ₹50 to ₹70 to Andheri (a traffic warden should keep them honest).
Prepaid taxi Set-fare taxis cost ₹670/810 (non-AC/AC; including one piece of luggage) to Colaba and Fort and ₹400/480 to Bandra. The journey to Colaba takes about an hour at night (via the Sea Link) and 1½ to two hours during the day.
Ride-share Uber and Ola have specific pickup points at the P7 West and East levels respectively; and information booths can hot-spot those without a connection on arrival in order to get you on the road. An off-peak UberGo from the airport runs ₹250 to Bandra Kurla Complex, ₹260 to Bandra West, ₹460 to Fort and ₹560 to Colaba. A ₹105 pickup fee is automatically embedded into the fare.
Train If you arrive during the day (but not during rush hour, and are not weighed down with luggage), consider the train: take an autorickshaw to Andheri train station and then the Churchgate or CSMT train (from ₹10, 45 minutes).
Taxi The trip from South Mumbai to the international airport in an AC taxi should cost from ₹700 to ₹750, plus the ₹70 toll if you take the time-saving Sea Link Bridge. Allow two hours for the trip if you travel between 4pm and 8pm; 45 minutes to 1½ hours otherwise.
BOAT
PNP (map Google map; %022-22885220; Apollo Bunder, Colaba) and Maldar Catamarans (map Google map; %022-23734841; Apollo Bunder, Colaba) run regular ferries to Mandwa (one way ₹135 to ₹185), useful for access to Murud-Janjira and other parts of the Konkan Coast, avoiding the long bus trip out of Mumbai. Buy tickets at their Taj Gateway Plaza offices.
Launches to Elephanta Island head to Gharapuri from the Gateway of India every 30 minutes from 9am to 3.30pm (one hour). Buy tickets from the MTDC booth at the Taj Gateway Plaza. Launches (map; Apollo Bunder, Colaba) also run to Mandwa. Buy tickets with PNP and Maldar Catamarans.
An overnight luxury cruise liner – the country’s first such domestic operation – set sail in late 2018. Angriya Cruises (%8314810440; www.angriyacruises.com; Victoria Docks 15, Purple Gate, off Ferry Wharf, Mazagão; d with/without window from ₹6800/5300), connecting Mumbai with Goa, departs Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 4pm from Victoria Docks just north of Fort, arriving by 10am the following day in Mormugao, 30km south of Panaji.
BUS
M-Indicator has a useful ‘search bus routes’ facility for hardcore shoestringers and masochists – you’ll also need to read the buses’ Devanagari numerals on older buses and beware of pickpockets. Fares start at ₹8. Check routes and timetables at http://routenetwork.bestundertaking.com.
BEST (www.bestundertaking.com) bus stands are numerous but include the east (map; MG Rd, Colaba) and west (map; MG Rd, Colaba) sides of Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd and at CSMT (map; Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus Area, Fort); as well as Colaba depot (map; Colaba Causeway).
METRO
Line 1 of the Mumbai Metro (www.reliancemumbaimetro.com) opened in 2014, the first of a long-phase project expected to finish by 2025. It connects 12 stations in the far northern suburbs to Ghatkopar Station in the east, mostly well away from anywhere of interest to visitors save the growing nightlife hubs of Andheri West and Versova, accessed by DN Nagar and Versova stations respectively. However, Line 1 of the monorail should have been extended south as far as Jacob Circle (5km north of CSMT) by the time you read this (after missing years of deadlines), bringing it past nightlife hub Lower Parel.
Single fares are based on distance and cost between ₹10 and ₹40, with monthly Trip Passes (₹750 to ₹1350) also available. Access to stations is by escalator, carriages are air-conditioned, and there are seats reserved for women and the disabled.
Line 3 (aka Colaba–Bandra-SEEPZ) will be a 33.5km, 27-station underground line connecting Cuffe Parade south of Colaba, Fort, all the main railway terminals, Dadar, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra, both airport terminals and on to Andheri. It will be of most interest to tourists but won’t open until at least 2021. Station construction is currently wreaking havoc on main thoroughfares around all of these areas, causing major traffic issues and other navigation problems.
TAXI & AUTORICKSHAW
Mumbai’s black-and-yellow taxis are very inexpensive and the most convenient way to get around southern Mumbai; drivers almost always use the meter without prompting. The minimum fare is ₹22 (for up to 1.5km); a 5km trip costs about ₹80. Meru Cabs (www.meru.in) is a reliable taxi service in Mumbai. Book online or via app, including outstation (long-distance) trips.
Ride-share apps in play include Uber (www.uber.com) and Ola (www.olacabs.com); the latter is good for booking autorickshaws as well – no more rickshaw-wallah price gouging (bear in mind with Ola, you will need to give the driver a one-time password – OTP – set when booking in order to commence the ride).
Autorickshaws are the name of the game north of Bandra. The minimum fare is ₹18, up to 1.5km; a 3km trip is about ₹36 during daylight hours.
Both taxis and autorickshaws tack 50% onto the fare between midnight and 5am; and a possible ₹2 fare hike for both was being bandied about at the time of research. Tip: Mumbaikars tend to navigate by landmarks, not street names (especially new names), so have some details before heading out.
TRAIN
Mumbai’s suburban train network is one of the world’s busiest; forget travelling during rush hours (7am to 11am and 4pm to 8pm). Trains run from 4.15am to 1am and there are two main lines of most interest to travellers: Western Line and Central Line.
Western Line The most useful; operates out of Churchgate north to Charni Rd (for Girgaum Chowpatty), Mumbai Central, Mahalaxmi (for the Dhobi Ghat), Bandra, Vile Parle (for the domestic airport), Andheri (for the international airport) and Borivali (for Sanjay Gandhi National Park), among others. Make sure you don’t catch an express train when you need a slow train – the screens dictate this by an ‘S’ (Slow) or ‘F’ (Fast) under ‘Mode’.
Mumbai’s first AC local train was also introduced on this line in late 2017, running at least five times per day Monday through Friday (8.54am, 11.50am, 2.55pm & 7.49pm to Virar plus an additional 5.49pm departure as far as Borivali).
Central Line Runs from CSMT to Byculla (for Veermata Jijabai Bhonsle Udyan, formerly Victoria Gardens), Dadar and as far as Neral (for Matheran).
From Churchgate 2nd-/1st-class fares are ₹5/50 to Mumbai Central, ₹10/105 to Vile Parle and ₹15/140 to Borivali. ‘Tourist tickets’ permit unlimited travel in 2nd/1st class for one (₹75/275), two (₹115/445) or five (₹135/510) days. AC fares from Churchgate are ₹60 to Mumbai Central, ₹85 to Bandra, ₹125 to Andheri and ₹165 to Borivali.
To avoid the queues, buy a rechargeable SmartCard (₹100, ₹50 of which is retained in credit, ₹50 of which is a refundable deposit), good for use on either train line, then print out your tickets at the numerous automatic ticket vending machines (ATVMs) before boarding. (Place your card on the reader, touch the zone of your station, pick the specific station, choose the amount of tickets, choose ‘Buy Ticket’ and then ‘Print’.) Mobile ticketing is also available via the UTS app (Android; www.utsonmobile.indianrail.gov.in) but set-up is more trouble than its worth for nonresidents.
Watch your valuables, and women, stick to the ladies-only carriages except late at night, when it’s more important to avoid empty cars.