Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country/Region

South India is most easily accessed via its major international airports at Bengaluru (Bangalore), Chennai, Mumbai and Kochi (Cochin). Some countries also offer charter flights to Goa, where a new international airport at Mopa is expected by 2020. The south is also well served by India’s extensive rail network as well as inexpensive (and often adventure-filled) buses from elsewhere in India. Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Passports

To enter India you need a valid passport, a visa and an onward/return ticket. Your passport needs to be valid for at least six months beyond your intended stay in India, with at least two blank pages. Keep photocopies/scans of the identity and visa pages of your passport.

Air

South India has four main gateways for international flights: Bengaluru (%1800 4254425; www.bengaluruairport.com), Chennai (%044-22560551; Tirusulam), Mumbai (%022-66851010; www.csia.in; Santa Cruz East) S and Kochi (%0484-2610115; http://cial.aero; Nedumbassery), though a number of other cities also handle international flights, such as Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), Hyderabad, Pune, Kannur and Kozhikode (Calicut). Direct charter flights from Russia, the UK and certain other parts of Europe land at Goa’s Dabolim Airport (Goa International Airport; %0832-2540806; NH566); most noncharter flight passengers bound for Goa fly into Mumbai. A new greenfield international airport at Mopa, North Goa, is due for completion by 2020.

India’s national carrier is Air India (%1860-2331407, 011-24667473; www.airindia.com), which has had a relatively decent air-safety record in recent years; some recent studies have branded it one of the world’s least safe airlines, but Air India has strongly disputed these claims and AirlineRatings (www.airlineratings.com) rates it six stars (out of seven).

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO₂, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO₂) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

Land

Although most visitors fly into South India, it’s possible, of course, to get here overland via the long haul through North India. The classic hippie route from Europe to Goa involves travelling via Turkey, Iran and Pakistan, but politics makes this more tricky these days; other popular overland options are via Bangladesh or Nepal. If you enter India by bus or train you’ll be required to disembark at the border for standard immigration and customs checks.

You must acquire a valid Indian visa in advance, as no visas are available at the border; e-Visas are only valid for travellers arriving by air.

For detailed up-to-date information about crossing into India from neighbouring countries, consult Lonely Planet’s India and/or ThornTree forum (https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree).

Car & Motorcycle

Drivers of cars and motorbikes will need the vehicle’s registration papers, liability insurance and an international driving permit in addition to their domestic licence. You’ll also need a Carnet de passage en douane, which acts as a temporary waiver of import duty; otherwise you have to leave a deposit with a local bank, which is predictably time-consuming and fiddly.

Sea

There are several sea routes between mainland India and surrounding islands, including the Andaman Islands, but none leave Indian sovereign territory. There has long been talk of a passenger ferry service between southern India and Colombo in Sri Lanka but this has yet to materialise; enquire locally to see if there has been any progress.

Tours

Ampersand Travel (www.ampersandtravel.com) Bespoke and small-group luxury/boutique tours.

Cox & Kings (www.coxandkings.com) Long-standing operator offering tours across South India, including houseboat options and a travel branch for mobility-impaired travellers, Enable Travel (www.enabletravel.com).

Dragoman (www.dragoman.com) One of several reputable overland tour companies.

Exodus (www.exodus.co.uk) A wide array of specialist trips, including Kerala tours with houseboats.

Greaves India (www.greavesindia.co.uk) Family-owned UK-based operator with a sustainable focus.

India Wildlife Tours (www.india-wildlife-tours.com) All sorts of wildlife tours, plus jeep/horse safaris and birdwatching.

Indian Panorama (www.indianpanorama.in) Itineraries include temples, wildlife and food.

Intrepid Travel (www.intrepidtravel.com) Endless possibilities, from wildlife tours to sacred rambles.

Kerala Connections (http://keralaconnections.co.uk) Tailor-made trips, including islands.

KOKOindia (www.kokoindia.com) UK- and Goa-based company for bespoke tours, retreats and safaris.

Martin Randall (www.martinrandall.com) Cultural tours including Gastronomic Kerala.

Shanti Travel (www.shantitravel.com) A range of tours from a Franco-Indian team.

Village Ways (www.villageways.com) Walking- and village-based itineraries involving local communities.

World Expeditions (www.worldexpeditions.com) Options include trekking and cycling tours.

Getting Around

Air

India has a very competitive, well-established domestic airline industry. Most of India’s main carriers have a six-star (out of seven) safety record, according to AirlineRatings (www.airlineratings.com) – with the exception of SpiceJet (three stars) and Air India Express (five stars).

At the time of writing, the following airlines were the major players operating across South India:

Air India (%1860-2331407, 011-24667473; www.airindia.com)

GoAir (%18602-100999; www.goair.in)

IndiGo (%011-43513200; www.goindigo.in)

Jet Airways (%91-39893333; www.jetairways.com)

SpiceJet (%0987-1803333; www.spicejet.com)

Vistara (%9289-228888; www.airvistara.com)

The competitive nature of the aviation industry means that fares fluctuate dramatically. Holidays, festivals and seasons also have a serious effect on ticket prices.

Security at airports is generally stringent. You must present your passport and a valid ticket/boarding pass (print or digital) to enter airport terminals. All hold baggage must be X-rayed prior to check-in and every item of cabin baggage needs a label, which must be stamped as part of the security check (collect tags at the check-in counter).

Bicycle

South India offers loads of variety for cyclists, from pretty coastal routes to winding roads passing fragrant spice plantations. There are no restrictions on bringing a bicycle into the country. However, bicycles sent by sea can take a few weeks to clear customs in India, so it’s better to fly bikes in. It may actually be cheaper – and less hassle – to hire or buy a bicycle in India itself.

Read up on bicycle touring before you travel – Rob Van Der Plas’ Bicycle Touring Manual and Stephen Lord’s Adventure Cycle-Touring Handbook are good places to start. Consult local cycling magazines and cycling clubs for useful information and advice.

Hire

ATourist centres and traveller hang-outs are the easiest spots to hire bicycles; enquire locally.

APrices vary: anywhere from around ₹100 to ₹200 per day for a roadworthy, Indian-made bicycle. Mountain bikes, where available, can run at around ₹200 to ₹700 per day (try Rentomo; www.rentomo.com).

AHire places may require a cash security deposit (avoid leaving your airline ticket or passport).

AAs of 2019 bike-sharing schemes have started to arrive in India, though the business is still its infancy and usually tricky for foreigners to access due to complex payment practicalities (though this may change).

AGuided bike tours are increasingly common and popular across South India; a half-day ride from Kochi to Alappuzha (Alleppey) in Kerala, for example, generally costs about ₹4900.

Purchase

AMountain bikes from reputable brands, including Hero Cycles (https://herocycles.com) and Atlas (www.atlascycles.co.in), start at around ₹5000.

AReselling is usually fairly easy – ask at local cycle or hire shops or put up an advert on travel noticeboards.

Practicalities

AMountain bikes with off-road tyres give the best protection against India’s puncture-prone roads.

ARoadside cycle mechanics abound but you should still bring spare tyres and brake cables, lubricating oil and a chain repair kit, plus plenty of puncture repair patches.

ABikes can often be carried for free, or for a small luggage fee, on the roof of public buses – handy for uphill stretches.

AContact your airline for information about transporting your bike and customs formalities in your home country.

Road Rules

AVehicles drive on the left in India but otherwise road rules are virtually nonexistent. Cities and national highways can be hazardous places to cycle so, where possible, stick to back roads.

ABe conservative about the distances you expect to cover – an experienced cyclist can manage around 60km to 100km a day on the plains, 40km to 60km on sealed mountain roads and 40km or less on dirt roads.

Boat

AScheduled ships connect Kolkata, Chennai and Visakhapatnam in mainland India to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands, though services have been reduced in recent years with the advent of budget airlines.

AFrom mid-September to mid-May, ferries travel from Kochi to the Lakshadweep Islands, though tickets are almost exclusively available through package tours.

AA new luxury ship, Angriya Cruises, was launched in late 2018, cruising between Mumbai and Goa.

Bus

ABuses go almost everywhere in South India and tend to be the cheapest way to travel. Services are fast and frequent.

ABuses are the only public transport option around many mountainous areas.

ARoads in mountainous terrain can be especially perilous: buses are often driven with willful abandon and accidents are always a risk.

AAvoid night buses unless there’s no alternative. Driving conditions are more hazardous and drivers may also be suffering from lack of sleep.

AAll buses make snack and toilet stops (some more frequently than others), providing a break but possibly adding hours to journey times.

AMany long-distance buses travel overnight – bring earplugs if you want to block out the Bollywood films.

ATraffic jams can wreak havoc on bus schedules; always allow plenty of extra time.

Classes

AThere are state-owned and private bus companies and both offer ‘ordinary’ buses and more expensive ‘deluxe’ and ‘superdeluxe’ buses. Many state tourist offices run their own reliable bus services.

A‘Ordinary’ buses tend to be ageing rattletraps, while ‘deluxe’ buses range from less decrepit versions of ordinary buses to flashy Volvo buses with AC and reclining two-by-two seating.

ABuses run by the state government are usually the more reliable option (if there’s a breakdown, another bus will be sent to pick up passengers), and seats can usually be booked up to a month in advance.

APrivate buses are usually more expensive (and more comfortable) and can also be booked ahead, but some have kamikaze drivers and conductors who speed ahead and try to cram on as many passengers as possible to maximise profits.

ATravel agencies in many tourist towns offer relatively expensive private two-by-two buses, which tend to leave and terminate at conveniently central stops.

ABe warned that some agencies have been known to book people on to ordinary buses at superdeluxe prices – if possible, book directly with the bus company.

ATimetables and destinations may be displayed on signs or billboards at travel agencies and tourist offices, but don’t count on it.

AEarplugs are a boon on all long-distance buses to muffle the often deafening music/films. Try to sit near the front to minimise the bumpy effect of potholes; never sit above the wheels.

Costs

AThe cheapest buses are ‘ordinary’ government buses, but prices vary from state to state.

AAdd around 50% to the ordinary fare for deluxe services, double the fare for AC, and triple or quadruple the fare for a two-by-two service.

Reservations

AMost deluxe buses can be booked in advance – usually up to a month in advance for government buses – at the bus station, at travel agencies or online. RedBus (www.redbus.in) is India’s most comprehensive booking site/app; MakeMyTrip (www.makemytrip.com) also books buses. Some government buses can be booked online through the relevant state transport corporation. Websites have varying tolerance for foreign cards.

AReservations are rarely possible on ‘ordinary’ buses and travellers often get left behind in the mad rush for a seat.

ATo maximise your chances of securing a seat, either send a travelling companion ahead to grab some space, or pass a book or article of clothing through an open window and place it on an empty seat. This ‘reservation’ method rarely fails.

AIf you board a bus midway through its journey, you’ll often have to stand until a seat becomes free.

AMany buses only depart when full – you may find your bus suddenly empties as passengers move to another bus that’s ready to leave before yours.

AAt many bus stations there’s a separate women’s queue, though this isn’t always obvious because signs are often not in English and men frequently join the melee. Women have an unspoken right to elbow their way to the front of any bus queue in India, so don’t be shy, ladies!

Luggage

ALuggage is either stored in compartments underneath the bus (sometimes for a small fee) or carried on the roof.

AArrive at least an hour ahead of the departure time – some buses cover the roof-stored bags with a large sheet of canvas, making last-minute additions inconvenient or impossible.

AIf your bags go on the roof, make sure they’re securely locked and tied to the metal baggage rack – some unlucky travellers have seen their belongings go bouncing off the roof on rough roads!

ATheft is a minor risk: keep an eye on your bags at snack and toilet stops and never leave day packs or valuables unattended inside the bus.

Car

Self-drive car hire is theoretically possible in South India’s larger cities, but given the hair-raising driving conditions most travellers opt for a car with driver (an affordable option for many visitors, especially if several people share the cost). Seatbelts are either nonexistent or tucked so deep into the backseat they require a bulldozer to dig them out. For travellers who want to drive themselves, Hertz (www.hertz.com) is one of the few international companies with representatives in South India.

Hiring a Car & Driver

AMost towns have taxi stands or car-and-driver-hire companies where you can arrange short or long tours; alternatively, book through your accommodation.

ANot all cars are licensed to travel beyond their home state. Those that are have to pay extra (often hefty) state taxes, added to the cost of hiring a car and driver.

AAsk for a driver who speaks some English and knows the region you intend to visit, and try to see the car and meet the driver before paying any money.

AHindustan Ambassador cars look great but can be slow and uncomfortable when travelling long distances. In any event, these Indian classics are sadly disappearing – production of them ended in 2014.

AFor multiday trips, charges cover the driver’s meals and accommodation; drivers should make their own sleeping and eating arrangements.

AIt is essential to set the ground rules from day one; politely but firmly let the driver know that you’re boss in order to avoid anguish later.

Costs

APrices depend on the distance, terrain and destination (driving on mountain roads uses more petrol, hence the higher cost), and the make and model of the car.

AOne-way trips usually cost the same as return ones (to cover the petrol and driver charges for getting back).

AHire charges vary from state to state. Some taxi unions set a time limit or a maximum kilometre distance for day trips – if you go over, you’ll have to pay extra.

ATo avoid potential misunderstandings, ensure you get in writing what you’ve been promised (quotes should include petrol, sightseeing stops, all your chosen destinations, and meals and accommodation for the driver). If drivers ask you for money to pay for petrol en route because they’re short of cash, get receipts so it can be accounted for later. Avoid paying the full fee upfront.

AFor sightseeing day trips within a single city, expect to pay anywhere upward of ₹1500 for an AC car with an eight-hour, 80km limit per day (extra charges apply beyond this). Non-AC options are slightly cheaper. For multiday journeys, charges hover at around ₹2400 to ₹4000 for an AC car with around 250km per day; parking and tolls are usually, but not always, included. With some operators, the maximum daily allowance is 100km; extra kilometres cost around ₹12 to ₹20 per kilometre.

AA tip is customary at the end of your journey; ₹200 per day is fair, ₹100 for a short trip (and more if you’re really pleased with the driver’s service).

Hitching

Hitching is not much of an option in South India; considering the inexpensive public transport options available, the concept of a ‘free ride’ is relatively unknown. Be aware that truck drivers have a reputation for driving under the influence of alcohol.

Hitching is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who hitch should understand that they’re taking a small but potentially serious risk. As anywhere, women are strongly advised against hitching alone or even as a pair. Always use your instincts.

Local Transport

Buses, cycle-rickshaws, autorickshaws, taxis, boats and urban trains provide transport around South India.

AOn any form of transport without a fixed fare, agree on the price before you start your journey and make sure that it covers your luggage and every passenger.

AEven where local transport is metered, drivers may refuse to use the meter, demanding an elevated ‘fixed’ fare; bargain hard.

AFares usually increase at night (by up to 100%) and some drivers charge a few rupees extra for luggage.

ACarry plenty of small bills for taxi and rickshaw fares as drivers rarely have change.

ASome taxi/autorickshaw drivers are involved in the commission racket (here), wherein they may pressure you to switch to a hotel of their choice. Stand your ground and walk if necessary.

ATaxi apps such as Uber and Ola Cabs have transformed local transport, with easy smartphone access and electronically calculated rates.

Autorickshaw, Tempo & Vikram

AThe Indian autorickshaw is basically a three-wheeled motorised contraption with a tin or canvas roof and sides, providing room for two passengers (although you’ll often see many more bodies squeezed in) and limited luggage. They are also referred to as autos, scooters, riks or tuk-tuks.

AThey are mostly cheaper than taxis and are usually metered, although getting drivers to turn on meters can be a challenge.

AYou can arrange autos through the Ola Cabs app, which charges only around ₹10 more than the relevant meter price for your journey.

ATempos and vikrams (large tempos) are outsize autorickshaws with room for more passengers, running on fixed routes for a fixed fare.

Boat

Various kinds of local boats offer transport across and down rivers in South India, from big car ferries to wooden canoes and wicker coracles. Most larger boats carry bicycles and motorcycles for a fee. Kerala is especially renowned for its breathtaking backwater boat cruises, while ferries are the main mode of transport between islands in the Andamans.

Bus

Urban buses in South India range from fume-belching, human-stuffed mechanical monsters that hurtle along at breakneck speed to newer sanitised air-con vehicles with comfortable seating and smoother driving. It’s usually far more convenient, fast and comfortable to opt for an autorickshaw or taxi, though there are some good airport bus services these days.

Cycle Rickshaw

A cycle-rickshaw is a pedal cycle with two rear wheels, supporting a bench seat for passengers.

AMany big cities have phased out (or hugely reduced the number of) cycle-rickshaws, but they are still a means of local transport in many smaller towns.

AFares must be agreed upon in advance – speak to locals to get an idea of what is a fair price for the distance you intend travelling. Tips are always appreciated, given the slog involved.

Taxi

AMost towns have taxis with meters; however, getting drivers to use them can be a major hassle. Drivers often claim that the meter is broken and proceed to request a hugely elevated ‘fixed’ fare instead. Threatening to get another taxi will often miraculously fix the meter.

ATo avoid fare-setting shenanigans, use prepaid taxis or, better still, taxi apps.

AMost airports and many train stations have prepaid-taxi booths, normally just outside the terminal building. Here, you can book a taxi for a fixed price (which will include baggage) and thus avoid commission scams. Hold on to the payment coupon until you reach your chosen destination. Smaller airports and train stations may have prepaid autorickshaw booths instead.

TAXI APPS

A Taxi apps like Uber (www.uber.com), Ola Cabs (www.olacabs.com) and Goa Tourism’s Goa Miles (https://goa-tourism.com) have completely changed the intracity transport game for travellers in India. At the time of writing, Uber was operating in 31 Indian cities. Ola, in 110 cities, is often available where Uber is not and includes an autorickshaw option.

A Ola Outstation, launched in 2016, offers one-way fares for long-distance trips, so you no longer have to pay for the return kilometres of your driver. At the time of writing, it was available in more than 80 Indian cities, including Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai, Hyderabad, Kochi and Pune. You can book anywhere between one hour and seven days ahead; rates start from ₹8 per kilometre.

Train

Mumbai and Chennai, among other cities, have suburban trains that leave from ordinary train stations.

Motorcycle

Goa is the only place in South India where motorcycle taxis are a licensed form of transport. They take one person on the back and, though not as common as they used to be, are a quick, inexpensive way to cover short distances, costing half the price of a taxi.

Despite the traffic challenges, South India is an amazing region for long-distance motorcycle touring. Motorcycles generally handle the pitted roads better than four-wheeled vehicles, and you’ll have the added bonus of being able to stop when and where you want. However, motorcycle touring can be quite an undertaking – there are some popular motorcycle tours for those who don’t want the rigmarole of going it alone. Weather is an important factor to consider – a monsoon-sprayed motor-cycle tour is probably not on your to-do list.

To cross from neighbouring countries, check the latest regulations and paperwork requirements from the relevant diplomatic mission.

Driving Licence

To hire a motorcycle in India, technically you’re required to have a valid international drivers’ permit in addition to your domestic licence. In tourist areas, some places may rent out a motorcycle without asking for a driving permit/licence, but without a permit you won’t be covered by insurance in the event of an accident, and may also face a fine.

Hire

AThe classic way to motorcycle around India is on an Enfield Bullet, still built to the original 1940s specifications. As well as making a satisfying chugging sound, these bikes are fully manual, making them easy to repair (parts can be found almost everywhere in India). On the other hand, Enfields are often less reliable than many of the newer, Japanese-designed bikes, and production can struggle to keep up with demand, creating a scarcity in the market and higher prices.

APlenty of places rent out motorcycles for local trips and longer tours. Japanese- and Indian-made bikes in the 100cc to 220cc range are cheaper than the big 350cc to 500cc Enfields.

AFor a week’s hire, a 350cc Enfield can cost ₹10,000; prices usually include advice and an invaluable crash course in Enfield mechanics and repairs.

AIn Goa, the Andaman Islands and other touristed areas, including parts of Kerala, scooter hire is easily available for around ₹250 to ₹400 per day.

ATouring bike outlets include Kerala Bike Tours (%9446492382, 9388476817; www.keralabiketours.com; 42/2252B St Benedict Road North, Kacheripady, Ernakulam), Rent a Bike (www.rentabike.in) and Ziphop (www.ziphop.in).

AAs a deposit, you’ll need to leave a large cash lump sum (ensure you get a receipt that also stipulates the refundable amount), your passport or your air ticket. It’s strongly advisable to avoid leaving your air ticket or passport; you’ll need the latter to check in at hotels, and the police can demand to see it at any time.

ATake photos of any damage or scratches to the bike before setting off, to ensure you aren’t held responsible for them and asked to pay repair costs.

Purchase

AIf you’re planning a longer tour, renting is the way to go, but purchasing a motorcycle is not impossible. Though nonresident foreigners cannot officially purchase a bike, loopholes vary by state and secondhand bikes are widely available (the paperwork is a lot easier for these than for a new machine). To find a secondhand motorcycle, check travellers’ noticeboards and ask motorcycle mechanics and other bikers.

AA well-looked-after secondhand 350cc Enfield will cost anywhere from ₹60,000 to ₹120,000. The 500cc model costs anywhere from ₹90,000 to ₹120,000. You will also have to pay for insurance.

AIt’s advisable to get any secondhand bike serviced before you set off.

AWhen reselling your bike, expect to get between half and two-thirds of the price you paid, if the bike is still in reasonable condition.

AHelmets are available for ₹500 to ₹5000 and extras like panniers, luggage racks, protection bars, rear-view mirrors, lockable fuel caps, petrol filters and extra tools are easy to come by. One useful extra is a customised fuel tank, which will increase the range you can cover between fuel stops. An Enfield 500cc gives about 25km/L; the 350cc model gives slightly more.

Fuel, Spare Parts & Extras

APetrol and engine oil are widely available on the plains, but petrol stations are widely spaced in the mountains. If you intend to travel to remote regions, ensure you carry enough extra fuel. At research time, petrol cost around ₹69 to ₹75 per litre in South India.

AIf you’re going to remote regions it’s also important to carry basic spares (valves, fuel lines, piston rings etc). Spare parts for Indian and Japanese machines are widely available in cities and larger towns.

ACheck the engine and gearbox oil level regularly (at least every 500km) and clean the oil filter every few thousand kilometres.

AGiven the road conditions, chances are you’ll make at least a couple of visits to a puncture-wallah – start your trip with new tyres and carry spanners to remove your own wheels.

AIt’s a good idea to bring your own protective equipment (jackets, gloves etc).

Insurance

AOnly hire a bike that has insurance – if you hit someone without insurance, the consequences can be very costly. Reputable companies will include third-party cover in their policies; those that don’t probably aren’t trustworthy.

AYou must also arrange insurance if you buy a motorcycle (usually you can organise this through the person selling the bike).

AThe minimum level of cover is third-party insurance – available for around ₹700 per year. This will cover repair and medical costs for any other vehicles, people or property you might hit, but no cover for your own machine. Comprehensive insurance (recommended) costs upward of ₹1400 to ₹1500 per year.

Organised Motorcycle Tours

Dozens of companies offer organised motorcycle tours around South India with a support vehicle, mechanic and guide:

Classic Bike Adventure (www.classic-bike-india.com; Assagao)

Enfield Riders (www.enfieldriders.com)

Indiabikes (www.indiabikes.com)

Kerala Bike Tours (%9446492382, 9388476817; www.keralabiketours.com; 42/2252B St Benedict Rd North, Kacheripady, Ernakulam)

Live India (%0845-2241917; www.liveindia.co.uk)

Vintage Rides (www.vintagerides.travel)

Road Conditions

Given the varied road conditions, India can be challenging for novice riders. Hazards range from cows and chickens crossing the carriageway to broken-down trucks, pedestrians on the road, perpetual potholes and unmarked speed humps. Rural roads sometimes have grain crops strewn across them to be threshed by passing vehicles – a serious sliding hazard for bikers.

Try not to cover too much territory in one day and avoid travelling after dark – many vehicles drive without lights, and dynamo-powered motorcycle headlamps are useless at low revs while negotiating potholes.

On busy national highways expect to average 40km/h to 50km/h without stops; on winding back roads and dirt tracks this can drop to 10km/h.

Tours

Tours are available all over South India, run by tourist offices, local transport companies, travel agencies and (usually better and more expensive) independent operators. Organised tours can be an inexpensive way to see several places on one trip, although they’re often fast-paced. Tailor-made tours give you more freedom about where you go and how long you stay.

Drivers may double as guides or you can hire qualified local guides for a fee. In tourist towns, be wary of touts claiming to be professional guides.

Walking, cycling, food and other themed tours are becoming increasingly popular and available across South India.

Train

Travelling by train is a quintessential Indian experience. Trains offer a smoother ride than buses and are especially recommended for long journeys that include overnight travel. India’s rail network is one of the largest and busiest in the world and Indian Railways is one of the largest employers on earth, with roughly 1.5 million workers. There are around 7170 train stations scattered across the country, used by an estimated 23 million passengers a day.

The best way of sourcing updated railway information is online, through sites such as Indian Railways (www.indianrailways.gov.in/railwayboard), Erail (https://erail.in) and the very useful Seat 61 (www.seat61.com/India).

Booking Tickets in India

You can book tickets online, through a travel agency or hotel (for a commission), or in person at the train station. Big stations often have English-speaking staff who can help with choosing the best train. At smaller stations, midlevel officials, such as the deputy station master, usually speak English. Note, however, that many trains get booked up far ahead online. The nationwide railways enquiries number is 139 (with SMS support).

To find out which trains travel between any two destinations, check the IRCTC (www.irctc.co.in), Cleartrip (www.cleartrip.com), Erail (http://erail.in), 12Go (www.12go.asia) or Make My Trip (www.makemytrip.com) websites, all of which also provide fares and timings.

At the Station

Chennai, Mumbai, Bengaluru (Bangalore) and Hyderabad have International Tourist Bureau counters, which allow you to book tickets in relative peace – check www.indianrail.gov.in/international_Tourist.html for details.

AGet a reservation slip from the information window, fill in the name of the departure station, the destination station, the class you want to travel and the name and number of the train. Join the long queue at the ticket window where your ticket will be printed. Women should use the separate women’s queue – if there isn’t one, go to the front of the regular queue.

AIndian Railways has been busy installing some 10,000 point-of-sale terminals within its nationwide network since 2016, allowing for cashless machine ticket buying, but these aren’t yet much use to foreign travellers as they require local credit/debit cards.

Costs

AFares are calculated by distance and class of travel; Rajdhani and Shatabdi trains are slightly more expensive, but prices include meals. Most air-conditioned carriages have a catering service (meals are brought to your seat). In unreserved classes it’s a good idea to carry portable snacks.

ASeniors discounts – 40% off for men over 60 and 50% off for women over 58, in all classes on all types of train – were discontinued for foreigners in 2016, and are now only available to resident Indians. Children below the age of five travel free; those aged between five and 12 are charged half price if they do not have their own berth, but full price if they do.

AIndian Rail introduced surge pricing on Rajdhani, Shatabdi and Duronto express trains in 2016, though it has since been dropped for some services. Fares increase 10% with every 10% of berths sold subject to a prescribed ceiling limit.

EXPRESS TRAIN FARES IN RUPEES

DISTANCE (KM)	1AC*	2AC*	3AC*	CHAIR CAR (CC)**	SLEEPER**	SECOND (II)**
100	1203	706	498	205	77	47
200	1203	706	498	282	136	73
300	1356	798	561	378	181	103
400	1678	978	687	467	222	128
500	2054	1209	846	577	276	151
1000	3362	1949	1352	931	446	258
1500	4320	2498	1708	1189	573	334
2000	5272	3025	2057	1443	698	412

* Rajdhani/Duronto Trains; ** Mail/Express Trains

Reservations

Book well ahead for overnight journeys or travel during holidays and festivals. Waiting until the day of travel to book is not recommended.

ABookings open 120 days before departure and you must make a reservation for all chair-car, sleeper, 1AC, 2AC and 3AC carriages. No reservations are required for general (2nd-class) compartments. Trains are always busy in India so it’s wise to book as far in advance as possible; advance booking for overnight trains is strongly recommended. Train services to certain destinations are often increased during major festivals but it’s still best to book well in advance.

AReserved tickets show your seat/berth number and the carriage number. When the train pulls in, keep an eye out for your carriage number, written on the side of the train (station staff and porters can also point you in the right direction). A list of names and berths may be posted on the side of each reserved carriage, though this isn’t always the case these days; many stations have signs marking the approximate spot where each carriage stops (again, ask station staff for assistance).

ARefunds are available on any ticket, even after departure, with a penalty – the rules are complicated so check when you book.

ABe aware that train trips can be delayed at any point in the journey so, to avoid stress, factor some leeway into your travel plans.

If the train you want to travel on is sold out, make sure to enquire about the following possibilities:

AReservation Against Cancellation (RAC) Even when a train is fully booked, Indian Railways sells a handful of RAC seats in each class. This means that if you have an RAC ticket and someone cancels before the departure date, you will get that seat (or berth). You’ll have to check the reservation list at the station on the day of travel to see which seat you’ve been allocated. Even if no one cancels, as an RAC ticket holder you can still board the train, and even if you don’t get a seat you can still travel.

ATaktal Tickets Indian Railways holds back a limited number of tickets on key trains and releases them at 10am (AC) and 11am (non-AC) one day before the train is due to depart. A charge of ₹100 to ₹500 is added to each ticket price depending on distance. 1AC tickets are excluded from the scheme.

AForeign Tourist Quota As well as the regular general quota (GN), a special (albeit small) tourist quota is set aside for foreign tourists travelling between popular stations. These seats can now be booked up to 365 days ahead through the IRCTC website/app with an international card (in theory, though international cards weren’t being accepted at research time – this may change) or, if you’re very lucky, at dedicated reservation offices in major cities; you need to show your passport and visa as ID, and payment is in rupees (with ATM receipt), GBP or USD. Online, there’s a ₹200 service charge per ticket plus a ₹100 registration fee, and you can book only 1AC, 2AC or Executive Chair tickets.

AWaitlist (WL) Trains are frequently overbooked, but many passengers cancel and there are regular no-shows. So if you buy a ticket on the waiting list you’re quite likely to get a seat, even if there are a number of people ahead of you on the list. Check your booking status at www.indianrail.gov.in/pnr_Enq.html by entering your ticket’s PNR number. A refund is available if you fail to get a seat – ask the ticket office about your chances.

CLASSIC TRAIN RIDES

South India offers some epic train experiences – as well as the following, consider the Golden Chariot, a luxurious round-trip journey from Bengaluru highlighting the romance of Karnataka, including spectacular Hampi and Badami. The train was under renovation at time of writing, with plans to introduce more affordable ticket options when it relaunches in October 2019 (see www.goldenchariottrain.com for the latest developments).

Nilgiri Mountain Railway One of India’s most beloved rail lines, this Unesco-listed miniature (‘toy’) train trundles through dense forest and emerald tea-cloaked hills between Mettupalayam and Ooty (Udhagamandalam) in Tamil Nadu’s Western Ghats (1st/2nd class ₹205/30; 3½ to 4¾ hours).

Goa Express: Vasco da Gama–Londa (www.irctc.co.in) Part of the superfast service between Goa’s Vasco da Gama and Delhi’s Nizamuddin station, the Goa Express sweeps from golden tropical beaches to the jungled hills of the Western Ghats; it’s one of many Goa–Londa trains to chug past Dudhsagar Falls, India’s second-highest falls at 603m (3AC/sleeper ₹495/160, 3½ hours).

Konkan Railway (www.irctc.co.in) Extending south from Mumbai through Goa and Karnataka almost to Kerala, this is a 765km sea-hugging beauty of a line. The Mandovi Express links Margao with Mumbai, crossing 200 bridges and India’s highest viaduct, whizzing past rice paddies, coconut groves and mango plantations (3AC/sleeper ₹1070/390, 12½ hours).

Deccan Odyssey (www.deccan-odyssey-india.com) Seven-night luxury whirls around Maharashtra and beyond (single/double from US$6100/8750).

Train-Travel Tips

AIn all classes, a padlock and a length of chain are useful for securing your luggage to baggage racks.

ABe mindful of potential passenger drugging and theft.

ARailYatri (www.railyatri.in) is handy for live-tracking train statuses.