4 AROUND THE HOUSE
Some of the best uses for PVC pipe are furnishings. It’s not coincidence that a whole cottage industry has sprung up around selling “furniture-grade” PVC pipe and fittings made specifically for constructing furniture. These include pieces with no markings and a high-gloss finish and fittings with extra inlets that would make no sense to use in plumbing.
Although you can find some suppliers of furniture PVC pipes and fittings in the Resources section shown here, the projects in this book were meant to be as accessible and easy to source as possible, so all the fittings are easily purchased from any well-stocked hardware store. That said, there are still amazing options in furniture design using standard PVC pieces.
The diversity of projects in this chapter is proof positive of those options, but there is no getting around the fact that PVC will never be as handsome as hardwood. That’s why the projects here mostly focus on the utilitarian—structures that will make life easier, serve a much-needed purpose, and will take a beating.
As with projects in the other chapters, the designs here are adaptable. In fact, most of these can easily serve as departure points for your own flights of fancy. The underlying logic should be clear and allow you to build on the designs to make them your own. Modify them as you see fit to suit them to your own circumstances and home.
Towel Rack
Vase
Shoe Rack
COFFEE TABLE TWO WAYS
There are two basic styles of coffee table: round and rectangular. They are suited to very different spaces and design styles. Traditional rectangular tables are more common and suit a wide range of interiors, from Mid-Century Modern to plain old modern. Round tables are better suited to square rooms and large spaces. They fit in with interior styles that typically value curving forms, such as Art Deco.
But, of course, your living room coffee table should reflect your own design style and tastes. Given that the coffee table is a centerpiece and one of the most important pieces in a living room suite, we’ve included designs for both styles.
Regardless of which you choose, you’ll find the project incredibly easy. You won’t spend a lot of time or effort building either of these. You should, however, spend some time on the top for either one. Either table will look its best if the base is painted, but the top will be the icing on the cake. As shown, both tables have high-quality plywood tops, but a glass top is more common to the circular form. You can swap for a different material; just keep in mind that whatever you use for the top needs to look great and hold up to some expected abuse such as spilled food and drink.
TABLE 1
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Working on a flat, level work surface, dry fit the legs and arms. The assemblies are identical, with elbows at each end connected to 5 3/4" arms or legs, which are connected to 3" centers through two tees. The elbow inlets on each assembly should point in the opposite direction of the tee inlets.
3 Measure and check that each arm and leg assembly is exactly the same length as the others. With a grease pencil, mark all the connection points with key marks, disassemble, and cement the pieces together.
4 Lay an arm and leg pair on a flat, level work surface. Dry fit two posts together, each with one 4 5/8" post top connected to a 2 1/4" post bottom through a tee. Dry fit the posts between the arm and leg tees. Check that the post tees face directly up, perpendicular to the arm and leg, using a speed square.
5 Make key marks at all the post connection points. Disassemble them, and cement them together and into the arm and legs.
6 Dry fit the 37 1/4" shelf braces between the post tees in each leg pair. Check that the frame sits evenly and doesn’t wobble. Cement the braces into place. Paint or finish the plywood table top as your prefer. Rest it on top of the legs and position it so that there is equal overhang on the sides and ends. Mark the locations where the leg elbows contact the bottom of the tabletop. Remove the top and stick 1" round furniture pads to the wood at those locations, to hold the tabletop in place on the legs.
TABLE 2
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut one pipe segment to length as listed on the cut list, and use it as a template to mark and cut the rest. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Cement a section into each of the inlets on both of the crosses.
3 Working on a flat, level surface, dry fit tees onto the end of each spoke radiating from the crosses, so that the tees are sitting on end holding the cross assembly up off the surface. The two assemblies should sit stable, with the inlets of the tees exactly perpendicular to the cross inlets. Use a torpedo level to ensure that each of the tees is plumb. When you’re satisfied that the tees are positioned correctly, use a grease pencil to make key marks on the tees and pipe ends. Disassemble both upper and lower assemblies, and cement the tees onto the ends of the pipe sections.
4 Join the tees of the upper and lower sections by cementing posts between the inlets. Paint the base as desired, and stick a transparent vinyl surface bumper on top of each top tee. Rest the glass top in position with an equal amount of overhang all around.
BOOKSHELF
Despite the name, the best bookshelf isn’t limited to holding books. Ideal bookshelf units are adaptable to whatever you want to store and sized perfectly for different areas where you might need that storage. This is just that type of bookshelf.
The design is meant to make the most of PVC’s rugged nature, because shelves full of books can be extremely heavy. The unit is consequently durable enough to serve as a utility shelf in a garage, workshop, garden shed, or even in an outdoor area alongside the house (the PVC weathers well, but you’ll have to be careful in the material you choose for the shelves if you’re using it outdoors).
The dimensions were purposely designed to provide lots of extra space on the shelves. This means that you can store a passel of large books or even a combination of knickknacks and books. But it also means you could feasibly use the shelves to store cans of paint, power tools, gardening supplies of all sizes and shapes, and just about anything else you might need to put on them.
The major variable is the shelving material. The project as shown here includes wood shelves, which are both handsome and supportive. You can paint or finish them as you desire, and they’ll hold up over the long run. But you could just as easily use glass shelves, if you wanted the unit to fit into a living room or large bathroom, or expanded sheet, if it will be doing duty in a workshop.
Do keep in mind that because the shelf is tall and relatively thin, it must sit on a stable, level surface. You should also secure it to a wall or exposed studs—you can find more information on doing just that in the box shown here.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand them so that the cut edges are completely smooth. Clear a large work area to stage the construction of the bookshelf.
2 Start by laying out and dry fitting one front leg, with a cap on the bottom of a 4 1/2" leg bottom, then a brace tee, a 3 1/2" nipple, and then the first shelf tee (pointing perpendicular to the brace tee). From that point alternate the three 10 1/4" leg middles with tees, topped with a 11 1/2" leg top and a three-way elbow.
3 Carefully dry fit the three remaining legs in the same manner. Pay close attention to the direction of the inlets on the elbows and tees. To ensure that the leg assemblies are plumb when upright, and that the braces and shelf side sections all fit in place, you’ll want to construct the legs with one elbow inlet and the bottom brace tee pointing straight up, perpendicular to the other tees’ inlets. This can be tricky, so take your time and envision the legs fitting together.
4 When you’re certain that all the inlets on each leg are pointing in the correct directions, use a non-permanent marker to mark all the connections with key marks. Completing one leg at a time, disassemble the leg, and cement it back together. Repeat with the remaining legs.
5 Dry fit the 12" shelf supports between a back and front leg pair, fitting the 12 1/2" top side brace at the top. Measure at several points to ensure the legs are the same distance along their entire length and are parallel with the shelf supports in place. When you’re satisfied that the construction is square and stable, cement each shelf support into a front leg tee, and then cement the back leg tees onto the shelf supports.
6 Stand the leg pairs upright and connect them on the bottom with the front and back 20 3/4" bottom braces, and on the top with the front and back 20 3/4" top braces. Measure the internal diagonal distances of the frame to check that the frame is square. Cement the braces into the elbows and tees on one side, and then cement the opposite side onto the braces.
7 Prime and paint the frame if you prefer. Paint or finish the shelves, or leave them natural. Install them loose, or secure them to the shelf supports with screws or saddle clamps.
LARGE WORK DESK
It doesn’t matter whether you’re drafting plans for a new house, running a marketing business, or writing a book on the many wonderful uses of PVC pipe: a large work desk is a true luxury.
The large dimensions of this desk are based on the standard-size hollow-core door that serves as the top. The benefit of using this unusual surface is that it is relatively inexpensive, lightweight, and durable. However, it’s an odd surface on which to write, so you might want to plan on buying a desk blotter if you tend to write a lot rather than use your keyboard.
The desk is built from the top of the frame down, and each stage of construction relies on careful measuring and alignment. As with several other projects in this book, any mistake will quickly be magnified. Measure carefully and be very aware of the directions different tee and elbow inlets point, because the last thing you want is a wobbly desk.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 On a flat, level work surface, dry fit a leg assembly together, including the top rails. Run a 24" top side rail between two three-way elbows, with one inlet pointing up. Connect the perpendicular inlet of one elbow to the side inlet on a tee with a 17" front leg upper. Insert an 8 1/2" leg bottom in the open inlet of the tee, and slip a cap onto the other end of the bottom.
3 Slip a 24 1/2" leg rail into the open inlet on the leg tee. Build the back leg, with a 9 1/2" rear leg upper connected to a tee. Slip a 5 1/2" rear leg middle into the other end of the tee, and another tee onto the opposite end of the rear leg middle. Insert an 8 1/2" leg bottom in the open inlet of the tee, and slip a cap onto the other end of the bottom. Slip the rear leg into place, with the open end of the rear leg upper sliding into the perpendicular inlet of the three-way elbow and the center inlet of the second back leg tee sliding onto the leg rail.
4 Measure the diagonals to ensure the leg assembly is square. One inlet of both three-way elbows and the open inlet on the upper back leg tee should point directly up from the assembly. Check the tee inlet with a speed square to ensure it is correctly oriented. With a grease pencil, make all the key marks.
5 Disassemble the leg and cement it back together. Dry fit the second leg assembly in the same way—but creating a mirror image assembly, because the two will face each other. Check that the dimensions of both assemblies are identical. Then disassemble and cement the second leg assembly back together.
6 Build the back rail assembly by laying the cross flat and inserting 31" rear bottom rails into either side. Insert the 15 3/4" rear bottom post into the bottom of the cross, and slip a cap on the opposite end of the post. Slip the 9 1/2" rear top post into the remaining cross inlet, and slip the center inlet of a tee onto the other end of the top post. The cross and the tee should both be lying flat. Make key marks on the top post at the cross and tee ends. Disassemble the back and cement it back together. Cement one 31 1/8" rear top rail into each side of the top post tee. Allow all the cement and assemblies to fully cure.
7 Stand up the rear assembly and dry fit the rear leg tee and three-way elbow of a leg assembly onto either side. Join the front legs by dry fitting the 64" front rail between the two front leg three-way elbows. Measure the diagonals to ensure the frame is square and that the frame does not wobble. Adjust as necessary.
8 Position the frame where you want to put the desk. Stick four self-adhesive vinyl bumpers (or felt pads) centered onto the top of each frame elbow. Position the door in place on top of the frame, and measure to ensure that the overhang is the same on both sides, and front and back.
Optional: If you want to more firmly secure the door in place on the frame, use saddle straps to secure the top frame rails to the underside of the door.
STEP STOOL
A step stool is one of those small but essential pieces of furniture that homeowners don’t know they need until they need it . . . and then they really need it. This useful boost can save you back injuries, falls off of rickety chairs, and breakage from the occasional dropped item. Start using a step stool and you’ll find yourself turning to it regularly to make your life easier and safer. It offers big benefits for such a small home addition.
The hallmark of any step stool worthy of consideration is stability. It has to be rock solid or what’s the point? That quality was the starting point for the design of the step stool in this project. It’s built from hefty 1-inch PVC pipe and fittings for just that reason. This step stool is sturdy enough to use in the kitchen, anywhere there’s a closet, and even rough-and-tumble duty in a workshop or garage.
If you or whoever is going to use the step stool is particularly large or heavy, you may want to upgrade to 1 1/4-inch or even 1 1/2-inch pipe and fittings. Adjusting the design should be fairly easy because it’s all straight lines, and if you miss the mark by an inch, it’s not going to change how easy the step stool is to use.
The version shown in this project isn’t painted, and the wood steps aren’t stained or otherwise finished. But that doesn’t mean you can’t beautify your version. Because of its compact structure, spray painting the step stool would be a fairly easy task requiring only a masked-off corner of a garage or utility shed. The steps, of course, can be painted, stained, or finished natural, as you prefer.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand them so that the cut edges are completely smooth.
2 Clamp one 9 1/4" rail in a vise with padded jaws (or bar clamp it to a work surface with a waste piece of 2× stock underneath). Use a straightedge and grease pencil to draw a straight line along the length of the pipe. Mark a hole on the line 2" in from one end and then two others spaced equally along the line. Carefully drill pilot holes at the marks, using a bit smaller than the 1 3/4" Torx screws. Repeat with five other 9 1/4" rails.
3 Dry fit the bottom frames for the front and back steps, consisting of two undrilled 9 1/4" rails on the sides and two 9 1/2" tread braces front and back, all joined by three-way elbows. Build the frames on a flat, level work surface, and check the diagonal measurements to ensure square. Make sure that the frames sit absolutely flat, and then use a marker to mark all the connections with key marks.
4 Disassemble both bottom frames and cement the pieces together. Construct the first step by dry fitting a 5" leg into each open three-way elbow inlet on one bottom frame. Top two of these legs on either side of a tread brace (the front of the step) with three-way elbows and the opposite two legs with crosses pointing at the inlets of the elbows. Insert a drilled 9 1/4" rail between each cross and elbow, with the holes pointing directly up and down. Insert a 9 1/2" tread brace between the elbows. Check the diagonal measurements to ensure the top is square. Mark each joint with key marks, disassemble, and cement the pieces back together.
5 Insert a 5" leg into each open inlet in the three-way elbows, forming the second bottom frame. Top the two legs along one longer tread brace with crosses. Top the other two legs with tees. Install undrilled 9 1/4" rails between the tee and the cross on each side. Measure diagonally between the tee and crosses to ensure the fittings are lined up correctly. When you’re happy that the frame is absolutely square, make key marks at all the connections. Disassemble the pieces and cement them back together.
6 Dry fit an “H” by inserting four 4" short rails into either ends of two tees and joining the two tees with a 9 1/2" tread brace. Insert the H between the tees and the crosses in the second base frame. Make key marks at all the connections on the H, remove and disassemble it, and cement the pieces back together and into the tees and crosses of the base frame.
7 Join the two base frame assemblies by cementing undrilled 9 1/2" rails between the crosses of both base frames. Cement 5" legs into the crosses.
8 Place three-way elbows on the front-side legs and crosses on the back legs. Dry fit two drilled 9 1/4" rails between the three-way elbow and cross on each side. The holes should be pointing directly up. Install a tread brace between the two three-way elbows, and then mark all the connections on this second-level frame with key marks. Disassemble and cement the pieces together.
9 Cement two undrilled 9 1/4" rails into the horizontal, rear inlets of the crosses. Cement two 5" legs into the rear tees, and top them with two tees, cementing the tees vertically, to the leg and the rail.
10 Cement four 5" legs into the open inlets of the crosses and tees. Dry fit four three-way elbows on top of the legs, and then dry fit two drilled 9 1/4" rails between the front and back tees (with the holes facing directly up) and two 9 1/2" tread braces side to side. Make key marks on all the connections, disassemble, and cement the pieces together.
11 Finish or paint the wood steps, if desired. Set the wood steps in place on the stepstool. Stick a screw up through each hole in each step, to mark the underside of the wood steps. Remove the steps and drill starter holes at each mark. Replace the steps and screw them to the stepstool.
QUICK 3
Simple home storage and accents are some of the best uses for PVC pipe. These are especially good uses for leftover odds and ends from other projects. The Towel Rack shown here will require the purchase of a certain number of pipes and fittings, but the Vase and Shoe Rack can both be constructed from the remains of other projects, or even from scraps scavenged from construction sites. All three are handy fixtures that you won’t know you really needed until you find yourself using them all the time. No matter where you get the material, all these are surpassingly easy and speedy to create.
1 TOWEL RACK
This towel rack is a useful addition poolside or in a busy bathroom where towels seem to pile up on the floor. To make the project as shown, you’ll need about 24' of 3/4" PVC pipe, six elbows, and four tees. This rack is basically two uprights contained in a very simple, rectangular base frame. The base frame is constructed first, with elbows on either end of two 28" end sections. The sides are three 6" sections separated by two tees, with inlets pointing up. The lower, front upright is constructed with two 35" legs, topped with elbows, which are connected by a 28" crossbrace. The second upright is constructed in the same way, except that the legs are 47" long. (You can easily change the length of the legs to accommodate your own towels or other textiles.) Work slowly and measure diagonals as you move along to ensure the frame and uprights are all square.
2 VASE
This decorative project could not be simpler, but done right, it looks like a designer creation. The idea is to use the very nature of the PVC to create a one-of-a-kind look. You’ll need a 5" to 10" section of PVC pipe that is at least 4" (and up to 8") in diameter. Smaller pipe sections will work as bud vases but will not be as stable as wider pipe. Stand the pipe section on end on a concrete or metal surface. Keeping safety first and foremost in mind, use a torch (a mini-torch, a weed torch, or a full-blown torch) to heat the middle of the pipe section. Wear heavy work gloves and eye protection, and slowly rotate the pipe as you heat the middle, moving the torch flame very quickly over the surface (you just want to heat it, not actually melt or blister the surface). As an alternative, you can heat the vase as it rests in a bed of aluminum foil, using a hair dryer on its hottest setting. When the middle seems to slightly deform, extinguish the torch. Lightly press down on the top of the pipe, while very gently twisting it side to side. This action should create curvy wrinkles in the center of the pipe. If you’re careful, you may be able to actually control the shape and size of the wrinkles (practice your technique on a waste scrap of pipe first). Once you’ve manipulated the pipe to a look you like, let the pipe cool completely. Then sand it thoroughly, including in the inside of the wrinkles. Clean the pipe with a tack cloth or a white, lint-free cloth and window cleaner. Finally, prime and paint the pipe with a plastic spray paint in your favorite color. You’ll be surprised at how polished the result looks.
3 SHOE RACK
This is a wonderful repurposing of scrap ends cut from 6" or wider PVC waste pipes. Look for 10" to 12" scraps on a construction site or cut your own from a long segment of pipe you purchase. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth (how smooth you get them depends on how polished a look you’re after). Lay a long cinching tie-down strap across a clean, flat, level work surface. Ask a helper to hold one end of the strap while you hold the other and align the pipe segments on their sides (two or three along the bottom will create a good base). Play with the configuration of pipes, and, when you’re happy with it, loop the strap around all the pipes, joining the two ends and cinching it tight. You can now place the shoe “rack” in your mudroom or even outside the back door so that friends and family don’t track dirt, water, or mud into the house.
PUPPY PEN
It doesn’t matter if you’re breeding dogs, hosting kittens, or just want to confine any smaller animals from roaming the house, this pen will do the job admirably.
This project is easier to build than it may look, because it is actually constructed of repetitive sections. The assembly is ganged for optimal efficiency, and to make ensuring correct measurements easy. The linear nature of the design makes altering the dimensions to fit your own space or furry friends a simple matter.
HOW YOU MAKE IT
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand them so that the cut edges are completely smooth. Clear a large, flat, level work area.
2 Form the two ends by dry fitting them side by side. Connect a 9 3/4" end outer rail between an elbow and a tee, connecting a 10 1/8" middle rail on the other side of the tee. Finish with another 9 3/4" end outer rail, capped with an elbow.
3 Dry fit three more ends in exactly the same manner. Compare each to the others to ensure that they are all the same length. Check with a square to ensure the open inlets of the tees are all perfectly vertical, pointing straight up.
4 With a grease pencil, mark all the end section connections with key marks. Disassemble each end, one at a time, and cement them back together. Repeat with all the ends.
5 Using the same method, construct the frame sides, starting with one 10 1/4" side outer rail connected to a tee. Connect the other side of the tee to a 9 3/4" side middle rail, with a tee on the opposite end. Connect another 9 3/4" middle rail to the tee, add a tee to the end of that, and finish with a 10 1/4" side outer rail. The tees should all lie flat, pointing in the same direction.
6 Dry fit three more sides in exactly the same manner. Compare each to the others to ensure that they are all the same length. Mark all the side section connections with key marks. Disassemble each side, one at a time, and cement the side back together. Repeat with all the sides.
7 Dry fit the top and bottom frame, connecting each side into the elbows on two ends. Check that the tees are all perfectly perpendicular to the elbows. Make key marks at each corner connection. Disassemble and then cement the frames together.
8 Cement six frame ends from two 9 3/4" end outer rails connected to a 10 1/8" end middle rail via crosses on either end of the middle rails. Assemble the ends with the crosses lying perfectly flat, face down. Cement six sides with three crosses separating two 10 1/4" outer rails from two 9 3/4" side middle rails. As with the ends, construct the sides with the crosses lying perfectly flat, face down.
9 Carefully assemble one middle frame level by sitting two sides and two ends in place, standing each upright on the cross inlets. Dry fit elbows at the corners to complete the level, and then measure the diagonals to ensure square, and check with the speed square to ensure the crosses are all perfectly plumb and parallel to one another. Make key marks at the elbows, disassemble, and cement the level together. Repeat with the other two levels.
10 Sit the bottom frame on a flat, level work surface. Cement 5" posts in all the tee inlets. Sit the next frame level on top of the posts. Check that the second level is square and level and that it is not askew from the base frame. Remove it and cement it to the tops of the posts. Repeat until you’ve cemented all the frames in place.
TOY BIN FRAME
Of all the clutter in a family household, toys are perhaps the most ubiquitous. Not only do they migrate to every room, carried by young members of the household, but they also seem to magically find the most inconvenient places to rest. You’re walking to the bathroom late at night only to be unhappily surprised by a sharp toy car biting into the sole of your foot. You sit down on the sofa for a relaxing episode of Friends, only to be startled with a squeaky stuffed animal hiding in between the cushions. The toys just seem to travel, as if they had come to life and walked out of your child’s room.
Take heart. There is a simple way to not only kill the clutter but also train youngsters to be tidy and responsible. It’s just a matter of turning the drudgery of picking up into a whimsical fun exercise, one that requires next to no effort.
One of the main challenges, particularly with young children, is that they forget where things are supposed to go. But an array of colorful bins is impossible for young eyes to miss, and bins are all-purpose for toys small and large.
That’s where this toy bin frame—and the bins that sit in it—comes in. The frame is built to hold the bins at an angle, making putting away (or retrieving) toys as simple as possible. There are lots of bins to choose from on the market, but rough-and-tumble plastic bins are the most durable option, and they are widely available in the primary colors that go so well in a youngster’s bedroom or play space.
The frame in this project was designed specifically for inexpensive bins available from a major retailer. The size of each bin is 16 1/4 inches long, by 11 3/4 inches wide, by 5 inches tall (including a 1/2-inch curled lip on which the bins rest in the frame). You may need to adjust the design to suit the bins most convenient for you, but in any case, these measurements are precise. Pay close attention when you cut the pipes for the frame, and measure as you dry fit the sections together to ensure that the finished frame will perfectly accommodate your bins.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Build the back ladder style, starting from the top. Dry fit one 26 3/4" back rail with three-way elbows on either end and one with standard elbows on either end. Fit the two other rails with tees on either end (rails in the tee nipples).
3 Working on a flat, level work surface and starting at the top, connect the handle rail that is fit with standard elbows to the two 3" leg tops. Connect the other end of the leg tops to tees, then connect the 6" back leg upper sections into the other side of the tees. Next, fit the tees of a middle rail to the back upper legs, followed by a 12" leg middle connected on the other side to the tees of the second middle rail. Finish with 12" leg bottoms connected to the bottom rail’s three-way elbows. The first tee from the top and the bottom rail’s three-way elbows should both point up, directly perpendicular to the rails and legs.
4 Measure the diagonals to make sure the back is square. With a marker, carefully make key marks at all the connections, and disassemble the back. Cement all the pieces back together, working down from the top.
5 Construct the front by cementing two 12 3/4" center rails into opposite sides of the cross and two 12" center posts into the other cross inlets. Mark each post with an “X.”
6 Working on a flat, level work surface, dry fit tees (nipple side) onto the ends of the cross posts and rails. Install the 12 3/4" front rails on each of the tees connected to the posts. Slip three-way elbows onto the rails on one side; slip tees (nipple side) onto the rails on the opposite side.
7 Complete the front frame by dry fitting the 12" front legs into place between the three-way elbows and outside tees, as well as two outside tees. Finish with the 6" front leg bottoms, capped with standard elbows. The open inlets of all the elbows should point upward, directly perpendicular to the legs and rails.
8 Measure the diagonals to ensure the front frame is square. Measure the width and height and compare to the back frame to ensure that they match. Make key marks on all the uncemented pieces, and disassemble. Cement the front frame together, from top to bottom.
9 Slip tees (nipple) onto either end of the top 26 3/4" crossbrace, and dry fit a 5" side upper rail and a 7 1/4" side upper rail on either side of each tee. This assembly should lay perfectly flat. Carefully fit short and long side rails into the front and back frame three-way elbows (long side rail to the front), and connect the bottom of the front and back frames with a dry fit 13 1/2" side bottom rail.
10 Once you’re sure that the frame sits stable, check that the bins you’ve purchased fit correctly between the front and back frames. Make key marks on the connections for the top and bottom side rails, disassemble them, and cement them together.
TABLE LAMP
Let there be light. A good table lamp is a handy piece of furniture to have around. It can provide ideal illumination for reading your favorite book or magazine, it makes working on small crafts a more exacting hobby, and it can add a bit of fill lighting to a dark corner of any room.
The design here is simple, bordering on elegant. We’ve glammed up the lamp with a paint job in brilliant blue and a special bulb and bulb cage. There are many different decorative bulbs and cages or shades available, so the options for personalization are nearly unlimited. You don’t necessarily have to finish it, though. If you’re using it in a workshop or crafts room, basic white and a bare, fairly strong bulb might serve the purpose just fine.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand all the cut edges completely smooth.
2 Begin the lamp with the base by cementing a cap on one end of all four 12" legs. Cement the other end of each leg into one of the opposing sides of a tee to make two legs.
3 Dry fit one end of each 7" crossbrace into one of the nipple inlets on the leg tees. Join the crossbraces with a tee. The base should be sitting flat as it will in use, and the central tee between the two crossbraces should be perpendicular to the base, pointing vertically. Check it with a speed square and tape measure.
4 With a marker or grease pencil, make key marks on the crossbraces and tees, disassemble, and cement them back together.
5 Cement the 2 1/4" neck bottom into place in the crossbrace tee. Slip one side of a tee onto the other end of the neck bottom and adjust it so that the nipple is parallel to the legs. Make a key mark, disassemble, and cement it in place.
6 Wrap the exposed wires at the end of the lamp cord in painter’s tape to make a tapered end. Thread the taped end through the reducer bushing and into the neck tee nipple, pushing a length of it up through the top of the tee. Run the taped end through the 13 1/4" neck. Note: If you can’t find the reducer, or just have scrap pipe and an extra cap, replace the bushing with a cap drilled with a 1/4" hole, and then cement it onto the end of a 2" nipple. The nipple is cemented in place in the same way the reducer bushing is.
7 Thread the taped end through an elbow. Slip the elbow onto the neck and adjust it so that it is parallel to the legs but pointing in the opposite direction from the tee inlet at the base of the neck. Make a key mark on the connection, remove the elbow (keeping it threaded on the cord), and cement it in place.
8 Thread the cord through the 5 1/4" neck extension and cement the extension into the elbow. Thread the cord through another elbow, and dry fit the elbow onto the end of the extension and adjust it so that it is in line with the first elbow but pointing straight down. Make a key mark, disassemble, and cement it in place.
9 Remove the tape on the end of the lamp cord and screw the wires to the lamp socket. Cement the reducer bushing into the rear tee inlet, and then gently pull the lamp cord taut. Screw in the decorative bulb and clamp the bulb cage to the lamp socket. Paint the lamp if desired. Note: If the weight of the bulb and cage pull the lamp socket down out of the elbow, wedge the cord in place in the reducer bushing with a piece of rubber, or cut a rubber washer.
PATIO CHAIR
The common denominator to enjoyable backyard activities, from neighborhood cookouts to simply reading the newspaper at a table with a large, sun-blocking umbrella in the middle, is comfortable, durable seating. Unless you’re fond of resting cross-legged on the ground, or standing at all times, you’ll need chairs. Given the expense of buying manufactured options, why not just build your own?
Don’t let the title of this project fool you. While it is meant to be the perfect partner to any patio table, this chair could fit equally well into a man cave or even in a rural summer cottage kitchen. No matter where you use it, you’ll find that the basic design is sturdy and stable. For that reason, it’s best not to try to mess with the measurements or attempt to customize the chair.
You should, however, manipulate the look to suit your own tastes. You may want to paint the frame to help it blend in with other deck or patio furniture. You can also paint or finish the boards that serve as the seat and seat back. Paint them a contrasting color to the frame, or substitute chic hardwood for a more upscale look.
In any case, if you think you may want multiples of the chair, it’s best to build them all at the same time. There is less likelihood of measuring variations chair to chair when you gang the fabrication of the chair parts, and you’ll realize economies of scale. Four chairs make a nice set to go with a simple patio table.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments and the cedar to match the cut list. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Cement the four 9 5/8" leg braces into the cross. Cement the legs together one by one, starting with a cap on one end of a 4" leg bottom and a tee on the other end. Cement a 9 1/2" upper leg into the other side of the tee. Repeat to construct all the legs.
3 On a flat, level work surface, finish the bottom frame by dry fitting the crossbrace into the tees on the legs. Check that the assembly sits level and doesn’t rock. With a grease pencil, make key marks on all the connection points. Disassemble and cement the leg assemblies and crossbrace back together.
4 Dry fit the top frame beginning with the two three-way elbows that are placed on top of the longer front legs. A 14 1/4" crossbrace connects the elbows, and each side is assembled with a 6 1/2" seat rail running between a three-way elbow and a tee and a seat rail on the other side of the tee connecting to the nipple of a tee positioned on top of each rear leg. Once assembled, check the seat for level side to side and front to back, and adjust as necessary. Mark each top frame connection with key marks, and disassemble. Cement the seat top in place.
5 Cement the 4 1/2" seat back risers into the tees atop the back legs. Dry fit the 22.5° elbows onto the risers, and complete the seat back with the 10 1/2" posts in the 22.5° elbows topped with a standard elbow on each side and the elbows connected with a 14 1/4" crossbrace. Make sure the pieces are not skewed, and then make key marks at the connections. Disassemble and cement the seat back assembly in place.
6 Paint or finish the wood seat and seat back as desired, and let them dry. Place the 6" × 1" seat slats across the seat sides, centering them and making sure they sit on the fittings on both sides and in the middle. Drill and countersink pilot holes down into the fitting inlets on both ends and at the tee. Drive a 1 1/2" Torx screw into each hole.
7 Lay the chair on its back and position the seat back in place. Drill and countersink pilot holes (two per side) as you did with the seat, and screw the seat back slat in place to the fitting inlets on either edge.
PRIVACY SCREEN
The Constitution may not say so, but we all know you have a right to privacy. Problem is, a lot of spaces inside and outside the home just aren’t as private as we’d like them to be. It’s nice to have a wide-open backyard where sunshine and air are free to flow and reach all parts of the yard. But when your neighbor is outside while you want to enjoy a bagel and the newspaper and a quiet, discreet Sunday morning without any chitchat, you’re going to want a bit of a social barrier.
Privacy screens—especially portable versions—are just the thing to keep your solitary moments solitary. They can be set up when and where you please and can even be used to visually divide spaces into different areas dedicated to different purposes.
This handy creation can be used inside or out. Even the fabric part of the screen is weatherproof, and the PVC pipe frame could not be more durable. It is also super customizable. As with all PVC projects, you can paint the frame to suit your home or your particular tastes. You could use drapery or upholstery fabric, solid-color sheets that you stencil with a homemade design, or even high-end textiles, such as velvet, sewn into divider panels for this particular use. Secure the panels to the frame with cord, decorative chain, or cool wire for an industrial look, or chrome or metal hangers (which will also be incredibly easy to use).
The possibilities extend to the actual size and shape of the screen. You can easily add additional screen panels for even more privacy, or change the height or width of the frame to outside dimensions that better suit your available space or needs.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Construct four leg assemblies by cementing two 10" legs into either side of tee and cementing caps onto the open ends of the legs.
3 Construct a panel frame on a large, flat, level work surface. Dry fit elbows on either side of a 23 1/4" rail, and dry fit tees (nipples) onto each end of another rail. Connect the rail assemblies with 60" posts on either side. Measure the diagonals to ensure the frame is perfectly square. When you’re certain the frame is square, and it lays on the work surface without rocking, use a marker or grease pencil to make key marks at each connection and disassemble. Cement the pieces back together, working from the top rail. Repeat this process to construct two more panels.
4 Connect two leg assemblies to the bottom tees of a panel with 9 1/4" risers, and stand the panel up. Adjust the legs so that they are perfectly perpendicular to the panel frame. Make key marks at both ends of the risers. Disassemble and cement the leg assemblies to the panel frame. Repeat with the other outside frame and remaining leg assemblies.
5 Cement the 11 1/4" risers into the bottom tees of the center panel.
6 On two of the panel frames, measure and mark the post about 4" down from the lip of the elbow and the same distance up from the bottom tee. Measure and mark the center of the post. Mark both posts of the center panel frame in this way.
7 Stand an outside panel next to the center panel (it will be easier if you use a helper for this). Fasten the panels together at the marked posts, wrapping zip ties around both posts at the three marks you made on the posts.
8 Secure the zip ties from sliding around by screwing each to the post with 1/2" panhead screws driven through one of the holes of the strap. Cut the excess tongue of each strap off for a clean look.
9 Cut the shower curtain into three equal 2'-wide strips. Hold the top of one shower liner panel centered in a panel frame and wrap it once around the top rail. Secure it in place with two 1 1/4" snap clamps. Roll the bottom of the sheet in the same way, around the bottom panel, and clamp it in place. Repeat with the remaining two panels.
SAFETY GATE
Safety gates have become ubiquitous in modern homes. Whether you’re looking to childproof your house or you simply want to corral that brand-new puppy, a safety gate is an easy way to ensure peace of mind.
Store-bought expandable gates can be unstable. Depending on the surface to which you’re mounting them, they may not hold as tightly as you would like, and nobody wants to see a safety gate fail when it’s needed the most. That’s why a great number of parents looking out for resident toddlers—and pet owners who want to restrict the movement of animals—often choose to install a more permanent, fixed solution, such as the safety gate in this project.
This gate is designed for a fairly wide hallway opening. You will most likely need to customize the gate width to go in whatever doorway, stairway, or opening that best serves your need. The design has been developed to be scalable, so making it your own should not be difficult.
Keep in mind when preparing for the assembly that the measurements must be exact. Use one piece as a template for the others so that you can match them as closely as possible.
Lastly, it’s always good to check local codes and regulations. Your municipality may dictate how and where safety gates may be installed, and may even outline what size they need to be (this won’t be a necessity if you’re penning in pets). You can also paint the gate to better blend into the surroundings.
HOW YOU MAKE IT
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Working on a flat, level surface, build the top and bottom of the gate with all the fittings lying on their sides. Start with an elbow, connected to a 2" rail nipple, which is in turn connected to one side of a tee. Connect nine more tees in line, dry fitting rail nipples between each, and connect an elbow to the opposite end with a rail nipple. Repeat the process to construct the bottom. Measure to check that the top and bottom are exactly the same. Adjust as necessary.
3 With a grease pencil, make key marks at all the connections on the top and bottom. Disassemble and cement all the pieces together following the key marks. (Work on the top and bottom one at a time so that the pieces don’t become mixed up.)
4 Dry fit all the posts between the top and bottom tees and elbows. Measure diagonals and check that the structure is not skewed. If necessary, adjust one or more of the posts. When the assembly is entirely square and lies flat, number each post from one side to another. Disassemble and cement the posts in place between the top and bottom.
5 Wrap the 1" metal pipe strap clamps around the post on one end of the gate and, holding the gate in place (or with the aid of a helper), mark and drill pilot holes for the clamp flanges. Screw the clamp flanges to the stair post or wall (screwing into solid wood).
6 On the opposite side of the gate, mark the end post one-third of the way down its length for the gate hook screw eye. Drill a pilot hole and screw in the screw eye.
7 Hold the gate in place where it will be mounted. Check for plumb and then mark the screw holes for the hinges. Drill starter holes and then screw the gate to the wall, staircase newel, or doorway jamb. Screw the gate hook to the opposite surface, at the level of the screw eye on the post.