Cochem • Burg Eltz • Beilstein
The misty Mosel is what some visitors hope the Rhine will be—peaceful, sleepy, romantic villages slipped between impossibly steep vineyards and the river; fine wine; a sprinkling of castles (Burg Eltz is tops); and lots of friendly small pensions. Boat, train, and car traffic here is a trickle compared with the roaring Rhine. While the swan-speckled Mosel (MOH-zehl in German; Moselle/moh-ZEHL in French) moseys 300 miles from France’s Vosges mountain range to Koblenz (where it dumps into the Rhine), the most scenic piece of the valley lies between the towns of Bernkastel-Kues and Cochem. I’d savor only this section. Cochem and Trier (see next chapter) are easy day trips from each other (45-60 minutes by train, 55 miles by car). Cochem is the handiest home base, unless you have a car and want the peace of Beilstein.
By Train and Bus: Fast trains zip you between Koblenz, Cochem, Bullay, and Trier in a snap. Other destinations require changing to a slow train or bus. Beilstein is a 20-minute ride on bus #716 from Cochem (May-Oct almost hourly Mon-Fri, 8-10/day on weekends, less frequent Nov-March; last bus departs between 21:00-22:00 except Sun 18:00-19:00, €3.65). Burg Eltz is a scenic 1.5-hour hike or €28 taxi ride from the tiny Moselkern train station (or about a €55 taxi ride from Cochem). For bus times, pick up printed schedules at train stations and TIs, or check the regional transit website (www.vrminfo.de) or Germany’s train timetable (www.bahn.com).
By Boat: Thanks to its many locks, Mosel cruises feel more like canal-boat rides than the cruises on the mighty Rhine. The Kolb Line has the most frequent departures, and cruises the most scenic stretch of the Mosel (tel. 02673/1515, www.moselrundfahrten.de). A simple and fun outing is the one-hour cruise between Cochem and Beilstein, passing through the Fankel lock (4-5/day in each direction May-Oct, weekends only in April, no boats off-season, first departure from Cochem at about 10:30, last departure from Beilstein at about 17:30, €12 one-way, €16 round-trip). Another option is the boat in the other direction (downstream) from Cochem to Karden (3/day, runs mid-July-Aug daily; May-mid-July and Sept-Oct Wed and Sat-Sun only; no boats off-season; 35 minutes, €10 one-way, €13 round-trip). From Karden, you can get to Burg Eltz via a long hike (2 hours, steep in places), train-and-hike combination, weekend bus (May-Oct only, 4/day, www.burg-eltz.de), or taxi ride—though it’s generally easier to reach Burg Eltz from the Moselkern train station. Kolb also runs one-hour sightseeing cruises and two-hour dancing cruises from Cochem (€10 sightseeing cruises 5/day Easter-Oct; €17 dancing cruises with live music daily at 20:15 mid-July-Aug; Sat only May-mid-July; Tue, Thu, and Sat Sept-Oct).
The K-D (Köln-Düsseldorfer) line sails the lower Mosel, between Cochem and Koblenz—but only Friday to Sunday, and only once a day in each direction (€31 one-way, June-Sept only, none off-season, Koblenz to Cochem 9:45-15:00, Cochem to Koblenz 15:40-20:00; free with a German rail pass but begins the use of a flexipass day, possible discounts with Eurail pass—ask; tel. in Cochem 02671/980-023, www.k-d.com).
Each year in May or June, the Mosel locks close for 10 days of maintenance, and none of the boats listed here run.
By Car: Two-lane roads run along both riverbanks. While these riverside roads are a delight, the river valley is very windy. Shortcuts overland can “cut the corners” and save you serious time—especially between Burg Eltz and Beilstein (see here) and if you’re driving between the Mosel and the Rhine (note the Brodenbach-Boppard shortcut). Both Koblenz and Trier have car-rental agencies. A mile-long, 500-foot-high, €456 million expressway bridge (called Hochmoselbrücke) is being built near the town of Ürzig, just southwest/upstream of Cochem and Beilstein.
By Bike: Biking along the Mosel is the rage among Dutch and German tourists. You can rent bikes in most Mosel towns (I’ve listed options in both Cochem and Beilstein). A fine bike path follows the river from Koblenz to Zell (with some bits sharing the road with cars). Allow one hour between Cochem and Beilstein. Many pedal one-way, then relax on a return cruise or train ride.
By Ferry: About a dozen small car-and-passenger ferries (Fähre) cross the Mosel between Koblenz and Trier.
By Plane: The confusingly named Frankfurt Hahn Airport, a popular hub for low-fare airlines such as Ryanair, is actually located near the Mosel (airport code: HHN, www.hahn-airport.de). You can ride bus #750 from the airport to Bullay (about €8, runs every 2 hours, 50 minutes; then 10-minute train ride from Bullay to Cochem). Groups of five or more need to book ahead for this bus (tel. 01805-066-735, www.airportshuttle-mosel.de/AirportHahn).
Wine Festivals: Throughout the Mosel region on summer weekends and during the fall harvest, wine festivals with oompah bands, dancing, and colorful costumes are powered by good food and wine. You’ll find a wine festival in some nearby village any weekend, June through September. The tourist season lasts from April through October. Things close down tight through the winter.
Carry Cash: Be prepared to pay cash for nearly everything in the Mosel Valley, including food, hotels, and transportation.
Helpful Guidebook: Look for the booklet The Castles of the Moselle (€3.10, at local TIs), with information on castles from Koblenz to Trier (including Burg Eltz, Cochem, and Metternich in Beilstein). The booklet not only has historical and structural information, but also some drawings of what the now-ruined castles once looked like.
With a majestic castle and picturesque medieval streets, Cochem (KOHKH-ehm) is the hub of the middle Mosel. With 5,000 inhabitants, it’s a larger, more bustling town than Beilstein, Bacharach, or St. Goar. Duck into a damp wine cellar to sample the local white wine (Weinprobe means “wine tasting”). Stroll pleasant paths along the idyllic riverbank, play life-size chess, or just grab a bench and watch Germany at play. River-cruise passengers clog the old town during the day, but evenings are peaceful.
Long and skinny Cochem stretches along both banks of the Mosel. The main part of town, on the west bank, sits below vineyards and the town’s showpiece castle. From the river, the town bunny-hops up various small valleys.
The information-packed TI is by the bridge at the main bus stop. Most of the pamphlets (free map with town walk, town history flier) are kept behind the desk—ask. The TI also has information on special events, wine tastings held by local vintners, public transportation to Burg Eltz, and area hikes. You can also pick up the informative, six-foot-long, €3.50 Mosellauf poster/brochure here (mid-July-Oct Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-15:00; May-mid-July Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 9:00-15:00, closed Sun; shorter hours off-season and closed Sat-Sun; Endertplatz 1, tel. 02671/60040, www.ferienland-cochem.de). Their thorough 24-hour room listings in the display cases on the wall outside come with a free phone connection.
By Train: Cochem’s train station is often unstaffed and has no lockers, but you can leave your bags at the Gleis 9 café off the station hall (€2/bag, Mon-Fri 8:30-19:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00). Make a hard right out of the station and walk about 10 minutes along cobbled Ravenéstrasse to the TI and bus station (both on your left, before the bridge). To get to the main square (Markt) and colorful medieval town center, continue under the bridge (with pay WC), then angle right and follow Bernstrasse.
By Car: Drivers can park in a lot behind the train station (€4/day, reach it by circling around on Ravenéstrasse and Pinnerstrasse). There’s also a multistory garage just up Endertstrasse from the bridge (€8/day).
Festival: Cochem’s biggest wine festival is held the last weekend in August. High season for wine aficionados lasts from August through October.
Internet Access: The very pleasant Espresso I-O café has free Wi-Fi (Mon-Fri 7:00-18:00—opens later during school holidays, Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00, between TI and train station at Ravenéstrasse 18-20).
Bike Rental: Consider taking a bike on the boat or train, and pedaling back. Radverleih Schaltwerk, between the station and TI, offers helmets with rentals (€10/day, €20/day for electric bikes; Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-13:00, Sun 10:00-12:30—except closed Sun Nov-March; drop-off after 18:00 possible, Ravenéstrasse 18, tel. 02671/603-500). The ticket office at the K-D boat dock also rents bikes (€9/day, €18/day for electric bikes; daily May-Sept 9:30-18:00, tel. 02671/980-023).
This pretty, pointy castle on a hill above town is the work of overly imaginative 19th-century restorers. Like many castles along the Rhine and Mosel, Cochem’s was blown up by French troops in 1689. For almost two hundred years it stood in ruins—much like Beilstein’s—until it caught the attention of Louis Ravené, a rich Berliner who’d made a fortune in the steel industry. He bought the castle dirt-cheap in 1868 and spared no expense in turning it into a luxurious private residence furnished with tasteful antiques. Today, the castle can only be visited on a 40-minute tour (these run frequently throughout the day and are in German only, but guides pass out a helpful English info sheet that makes the visit worthwhile). You’ll see seven beautiful rooms, complete with antlers on the wall and hidden doors leading to secret passages. The other 43 rooms are empty, as Ravené’s descendants took most of their stuff in 1942 when they were forced to sell the castle to the Nazi government (which then used it as a training center for lawyers). The castle is now owned by the town of Cochem.
Cost and Hours: €6, daily mid-March-mid-Nov, first tour at 9:00, last tour at 17:00, mid-Nov-mid-March tours run irregularly—see schedule on website, tel. 02671/255, www.reichsburg-cochem.de.
Falcon Show: Below the entrance, the resident falconer frequently shows off his flock—check the notice at the gate to see if the birds are in fine feather (€4, 40-minute show, Tue-Sun at 11:00, 13:00, 14:30, and 16:00, no shows Mon, look for Falknerei sign, mobile 0160-9912-7380, www.falknerei-reichsburg-cochem.de).
Eating: Restaurant Burgschänke serves lunch and offers scenic views of the Mosel Valley (€5-€10 meals, mid-March-Oct daily 10:00-18:00, closed Nov-mid-March, tel. 02671/255).
Getting There on Foot: Zur Burg signs point the way up. From the old town’s main square (Markt), with your back to the tower, the quickest way is to walk a block straight ahead on Herrenstrasse and then turn right up Schlossstrasse (10- to 15-minute huff and puff). A 25-minute scenic route is to continue along Herrenstrasse, which changes its name to Burgfrieden and then turns into a path winding up to the castle from behind. Even if you ride the bus up to the castle (explained next), this trail is the prettiest way to get back down (look for the Zur Mosel sign below the castle).
Getting There by Bus: If you’ve already probed a little Wein and would rather ride up, consider the shuttle bus that runs to the castle from the bus station (next to the TI) or the main square—though you still have to walk the last five minutes uphill (bus #781, €2.50 one-way, €4 round-trip, 1-3/hour, May-Oct only, first bus up at 10:10, last bus down at 18:00, look for Reichsburg Shuttle-Bus sign at bus station, tel. 02671/7647, www.reichsburg-cochem.de).
For great views, ride the Sesselbahn (chairlift), which ascends the hill on the opposite side of town from the castle (€4.30 one-way, €6.30 round-trip, April-Oct 10:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00, shorter hours on rainy days, closed off-season, tel. 02671/989-065, www.cochemer-sesselbahn.de). There’s a pricey restaurant at the top, along with a short, rocky path that leads to the Pinnerkreuz overlook. Instead of riding to the top, you can scramble up the narrow path under the lift for 20 minutes of heart-pounding, aerobic excitement. Or take the trail up to the same point from behind the train station (find trailhead behind station parking lot). For the best of all worlds, ride the lift up, take in the view from the restaurant, then follow the path to the station (Bahnhof), then down through the forest and then the vineyards to a wine tasting at Weingut Rademacher.
At Weingut Rademacher, near the train station, you can taste four local wines for €3. There’s no charge for tasting if you buy at least three bottles (usually open May-Sept Mon-Tue and Thu-Sat 10:00-18:30, closed Wed and Sun, different hours during festivals, call ahead to confirm, open by arrangement Oct-April, Pinnerstrasse 10, tel. 02671/4164, www.weingut-rademacher.de; they also rent rooms—see “Sleeping in Cochem,” later). Other wine cellars in town also offer tastings.
If you have a car, consider going upriver to the town of Zell, famous for its Schwarze Katze (“Black Cat”) wine. English-speaking Peter Weis runs F. J. Weis winery and gives a clever, entertaining tour of his 40,000-bottle-per-year wine cellar. The tour includes a wine tasting and usually runs daily at 17:00, but it’s important to call ahead to reserve a spot (€18, open April-mid-Nov daily 10:30-18:00, closed mid-Nov-March except with advance notice, tel. 06542/41398, mobile 0172-780-7153, www.weingut-weis.de, f.j.weis@t-online.de). You will find his Weinkeller south of the town of Zell. It’s 200 yards past the bridge toward Bernkastel, riverside at Notenau 30. Peter also rents two luxurious apartments with kitchen facilities (Db-€72, less for 3 or more nights, extra person-€12, breakfast-€7.50).
The Historische Senfmühle (Historic Mustard Mill), located across the river and next to the bridge, is one of the oldest mills (c. 1810) of its kind in Europe. Run by Wolfgang Steffens and his helpful staff, they produce outstanding mustards, using only natural spices following selected and historical recipes. You may also want to try their homemade spirits or, for a unique treat, look for the Roter-Weinbergs-Pfirsich Likör—a local cordial made from the small, tart “red peaches” that are unique to the Mosel Valley.
Cost and Hours: Free mustard tasting, 30-minute guided tours in German only-€2.50; daily 10:00-18:00, Stadionstrasse 1, tel. 02671/607665, www.senfmuehle.net.
Cochem’s Moselbad and Freizeit Zentrum offers an array of family-friendly activities: an indoor wave pool, an outdoor pool, a sauna, tennis courts, and mini-golf. The downside: It’s 30 minutes on foot from the center of town.
Cost and Hours: Indoor pool-€7/3 hours, Mon 13:00-22:00, Tue-Fri 9:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00; other activities have different hours and prices; 10 minutes beyond youth hostel at Moritzburger Strasse 1, tel. 02671/97990, www.moselbad.de.
The Kolb Line offers one-hour sightseeing cruises and schmaltzy two-hour “Tanz Party” dancing cruises with live music (see “Getting Around the Mosel Valley—By Boat,” here).
A little green-and-yellow tourist train leaves from under the bridge at the TI and does a 25-minute sightseeing loop through town. Since the commentary is only in German (ask for English flier), and Cochem is such a pedestrian-friendly town anyway, this is worth it only if you’re bored and lazy.
Cost and Hours: €5.50, includes a glass of wine, 1-2/hour, April-Oct daily 10:00-17:00, Nov-March weekends only.
Cochem is a good base for train travelers. Most listings are within a 10- to 15-minute walk or a €6 taxi ride. August is very tight on rooms, with various festivals and generally inflated prices. Cochem has no launderette.
$$$ Hotel Lohspeicher, an upscale-rustic hotel just off the main square on a street with tiny steps, is for those willing to pay a bit extra for quality lodgings in the thick of things. Its nine high-ceilinged rooms have modern comforts, and the owner is a gourmet chef (Sb-€70-90, Db-€95-123, includes big breakfast in a fine stone-and-timber room, elevator, fancy restaurant, parking-€10/day, Obergasse 1, tel. 02671/3976, www.lohspeicher.de, service@lohspeicher.de, Ingo).
$$$ Hotel am Hafen, across the bridge from the TI, offers a mellow atmosphere with views over the river to Cochem. Some of the 20 rooms have balconies (Sb-€70-85, Db-€85-99, deluxe Db-€112-120, €10 less Nov-June or for 2 nights, loaner tablets in guest rooms, restaurant/terrace with seafood specialties, free parking based on availability, parking garage-€8/day, closed Dec-Jan, Uferstrasse 3, tel. 02671/97720, www.hotel-am-hafen.de, hotel-am-hafen.cochem@t-online.de).
$$$ Pension Gundert’s 12 rooms fill a handsome 1904 row house two convenient blocks from the station, along the street leading into town. Guests enjoy a pleasant roof terrace overlooking the river. The Gundert family and the pension manager are very helpful, and work hard to provide an enjoyable stay (Sb-€48, Db-€84, family deals, free parking, local wines/beers and nonalcoholic drinks available in kitchen on roof terrace, Ravenéstrasse 34, tel. 02671/910-224, www.pension-gundert.de, info@pension-gundert.de).
$$ Hotel & Restaurant Weinhaus Gräfen, run by the friendly and helpful Vatlav family, has a mix of 12 comfortable rooms (some very small but others quite large), a nicely decorated terrace, and a recommended restaurant downstairs (Sb-€45, Db-€76, Tb-€105, elevator, discounted parking at nearby public garage-€14 for up to 4 days; near chairlift at Endertstrasse 27, tel. 02671/4453, www.weinhaus-graefen.de, info@weinhaus-graefen.de).
$$ Weingut Rademacher rents six simple ground-floor rooms that share a lounge with a fridge and a microwave. It is wedged between vineyards and train tracks, with a pleasant garden (Sb-€38-40, Db-€62-72, cheaper for 3 nights, family deals, no Wi-Fi, free parking; exit station at rear and walk diagonally across the municipal parking lot to Pinnerstrasse 10; tel. 02671/4164, www.weingut-rademacher.de, info@weingut-rademacher.de). This place also offers wine tasting to the public (described earlier, under “Sights in Cochem”).
$ Haus Andreas has 10 clean rooms at fair prices in the old town (Sb-€35-40, Db-€55-75, Tb-€80, lower prices are for at least 3 nights, cash only, pay Wi-Fi, parking-€2/day, Schlossstrasse 9, reception is often across the street in shop at #16, tel. 02671/1370 or 02671/5155, www.hausandreas.de, info@hausandreas.de, kind Frau Pellny speaks a little English). From the main square, take Herrenstrasse (go straight if coming from the station); after a block, angle right up the steep hill on Schlossstrasse.
$ Gasthaus zum Fröhlichen Weinberg, also in the old town, is a relaxed jumble of nine clean, inexpensive rooms, some with low ceilings and tiny bathrooms and most with sunny balconies, topped by a fun roof garden with a view over town. It’s run by a mother-and-daughter team (Sb-€24, Db-€59, ask about family rooms, lower prices for longer stays, cash only, lots of stairs, fan available, parking-€4/day, Schlaufstrasse 11, tel. 02671/4193, www.zum-froehlichen-weinberg.de, info@zum-froehlichen-weinberg.de). From the main square, go up Oberbachstrasse (in the far-right corner if coming from the station) and then left up tiny Schlaufstrasse.
Hostel: Cochem’s $ hostel is a huge, family-friendly complex just across the river from the train station, with 148 beds, picnic tables, grill pit, playground, game room, bar, restaurant, and a sundeck over the Mosel (bed in dorm room-€22.50, Db-€56, includes sheets and breakfast, box lunches-€5/person, pay guest computer and Wi-Fi, fills up—reserve in advance, Klottener Strasse 9, tel. 02671/8633, www.diejugendherbergen.de/cochem, cochem@diejugendherbergen.de). From the train station, walk straight down to the river, turn left, and use the stairway to cross the modern bridge to the hostel.
(See “Cochem” map, here.)
In addition to the following listings, both the castle and the chairlift have cafés serving lunch (see “Sights in Cochem,” earlier), the Hotel Lohspeicher has a very fancy, very expensive gourmet restaurant (see “Sleeping in Cochem,” earlier), and there are plentiful pizza, Turkish, and Asian options in the old town.
Gaststätte Noss is one of several restaurants along the riverside promenade. It’s open later than most—and supplies meat from its own butcher shop. Don’t confuse it with the hotel of the same name (€8-18 main courses, cheaper daily specials; March-Nov Fri-Wed 10:00-21:15; Dec-Jan Fri-Wed 10:00-15:00 & 17:30-21:15, closed Thu year-round and Feb; Moselpromenade 4, tel. 02671/7067).
Hotel am Hafen’s restaurant is a comfortable, well-respected riverfront eatery that specializes in seafood. From their terrace you can enjoy gorgeous views of the river and castle (€15-20 main courses, €16-18 three-course meals, indoor and outdoor seating, daily 12:00-21:00, Uferstrasse 3, tel. 02671/97720).
Alte Gutsschänke, better known as “Arthur’s place,” is where locals go for a glass of wine in a cozy cellar. Seating is at long, wooden, get-to-know-your-neighbor tables (extensive wine list and very basic pub food, Easter-Oct Tue-Fri from 18:00, Sat-Sun from 14:00, closed Mon and in winter, just uphill from the old town’s Markt square at Schlossstrasse 6, tel. 02671/8950).
Hotel & Restaurant Weinhaus Gräfen is where you can meet the locals while enjoying freshly prepared traditional food (€8-€18 main courses, €14 daily fixed-price meals, daily 10:00-22:00 except closed last 2 weeks of Nov and Feb, below recommended hotel at Endertstrasse 27, tel. 02671/4453).
Da Vinci Ristorante Pizzeria serves good, reasonably priced Italian fare at its hard-to-miss location just across the bridge from the TI. Grab a seat on the covered terrace for city, river, and castle views while rubbing elbows with locals and fellow travelers (€6-10 pizzas, €7-20 main courses, Tue-Sat 17:30-22:00, Sun 12:00-14:00 & 17:30-22:00, closed Mon except mid-July-Aug, cash only, Bergstrasse 1, tel. 02671/916-195).
Equit’s Metzger Imbiss is a great and inexpensive alternative for lunch or an early dinner. Local butcher Thomas Equit offers tasty sausages, schnitzel, and other regional dishes—as well as burgers—for a reasonable price. The interior is modern, clean, and very inviting. In summer, the big front windows are opened up, and you’ll feel like you’re sitting right on the main square (€5-9 main courses, daily 10:00-19:00, cash only, Markt 10, tel. 02671/910-710).
Picnics: The Diewald supermarket stocks everything you need for a fabulous picnic (Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00, Sat 8:00-18:00, closed Sun). Located between the train station and TI, it’s just off Ravenéstrasse, up a little side street at #33, behind a clothing store.
From Cochem by Train to: Moselkern (for hike to Burg Eltz; hourly, 16 minutes), Trier (2/hour, 45-60 minutes), Frankfurt Airport (hourly, 2-2.5 hours, change in Koblenz and sometimes Mainz), Cologne (1-2/hour, 2 hours, most change in Koblenz), Bacharach (hourly, 1.5-2 hours, change in Koblenz), Rothenburg (every 1-2 hours, 5-7 hours, 3-4 changes), Berlin (roughly hourly, 7-8 hours, 1-3 changes), Paris (best routings roughly every 2 hours, 4-5 hours, transfer in Saarbrücken or in Trier and Luxembourg).
Train info: Toll tel. 0180-699-6633, www.bahn.com. Bus info: Tel. 02671/8976, www.vrminfo.de.
My favorite castle in all of Europe—worth ▲▲▲—lurks in a mysterious forest. It’s been left intact for 700 years and is decorated and furnished throughout much as it was 500 years ago. Thanks to smart diplomacy, clever marriages, and lots of luck, Burg Eltz (pronounced “boorg elts”) was never destroyed (it survived one five-year siege). It’s been in the Eltz family for 850 years. The scenic 1.5-hour walk up the Elz Valley to the castle makes a great half-day outing if you’re staying anywhere along the Mosel—and a worthwhile day trip if you’re staying on the Rhine. For details on the various ways to reach the castle, see “Getting to Burg Eltz” on here.
Cost and Hours: €9 castle entry (includes guided tour and treasury), April-Oct daily from 9:30, last tour departs at 17:30, closed Nov-March. Pick up the free English descriptions at entry. Tel. 02672/950-500, www.burg-eltz.de, burg@eltz.org.
Tours: The only way to see the castle is with a 45-minute tour (included in entry price). Guides speak English and thoughtfully collect English speakers into their own tours—well worth waiting for (usually a 30-minute wait at most; visit treasury in the meantime).
Bring Cash: The castle (including the parking lot and café) doesn’t accept credit cards—only cash. There’s no ATM, so make sure you bring enough. (There’s only one exception: If you spend at least €50 at the ticket desk—which is hard for most visitors to do—they accept Visa and MasterCard.)
Elz is the name of a stream that runs past the castle through a deep valley before emptying into the Mosel. The first record of a Burg (castle) on the Elz is from 1157. By about 1490, the castle looked like it does today, with the homes of three big landlord families gathered around a tiny courtyard within one formidable fortification. Today, the excellent 45-minute tour winds you through two of those homes, while the third is still the residence of the castellan (the man who maintains the castle). This is where members of the Eltz family stay when they’re not at one of their other feudal holdings. The elderly countess of Eltz—whose family goes back 33 generations here (you’ll see a photo of her family)—enjoys flowers. Each week for 40 years, she’s had grand arrangements adorn the public castle rooms.
It was a comfortable castle for its day: 80 rooms made cozy by 40 fireplaces and wall-hanging tapestries. Many of its 20 toilets were automatically flushed by a rain drain. The delightful chapel is on a lower floor. Even though “no one should live above God,” this chapel’s placement was acceptable because it filled a bay window, which flooded the delicate Gothic space with light. The three families met—working out common problems as if sharing a condo complex—in the large “conference room.” A carved jester and a rose look down on the big table, reminding those who gathered that they were free to discuss anything (“fool’s freedom”—jesters could say anything to the king), but nothing discussed could leave the room (the “rose of silence”). In the bedroom, have fun with the suggestive decor: the jousting relief carved into the canopy, and the fertile and phallic figures hiding in the lusty green wall paintings.
Near the exit, the treasury fills the four higgledy-piggledy floors of a cellar with the precious, eccentric, and historic mementos of this family that once helped elect the Holy Roman Emperor and, later, owned a sizable chunk of Croatia (Habsburg favors). The silver and gold work—some of Germany’s best—is worth a close look with the help of an English flier.
Eating at Burg Eltz: The castle café serves lunch, with soups and bratwurst-and-fries cuisine for €5-8 (April-Oct daily 9:30-17:30, cash only).
Sleeping near Burg Eltz: Although I prefer the bustle of Cochem or the charm of Beilstein, staying in tiny, sleepy Moselkern is a workable option. You can start off to Burg Eltz right after breakfast to beat the heat on a warm day. $$$ Hotel Moselkern, set alongside the river a five-minute walk from the train station, has 25 comfortable rooms in a solid, 1970s-era building. All of the rooms have balconies, most of them overlooking the river (Sb-€42-48, Db-€79-86, higher prices are for July-Sept, elevator, restaurant with outdoor seating, free parking, bowling alley in basement, tel. 02672/1303, www.hotel-moselkern.de, hotelmoselkern@t-online.de, Rother family).
The castle is a pleasant 1.5-hour walk from the nearest train station, in the little village of Moselkern—the walk is not only easy, it’s the most fun and scenic way to visit the castle.
Alternatively, if the weather is bad, or you prefer not to walk, you can take a taxi (or, on summer weekends only, the bus) to the castle from the village of Karden (see “By Bus from the Treis-Karden Station,” later).
Cars (and taxis) park in a lot near, but not quite at, Burg Eltz. From the lot, hike 15 minutes downhill to the castle or wait (10 minutes at most) for the red castle shuttle bus (€2 each way).
Each of your options is explained below.
The hike between the Moselkern train station and Burg Eltz runs through a magical pine forest, where sparrows carry crossbows, and maidens, disguised as falling leaves, whisper “watch out.” You can do the hike in 70 minutes at a steady clip, but allow an extra 20 minutes or so to enjoy the scenery. The trail is mostly gentle, except for a few uneven parts that are slippery when wet and the steep flight of stairs leading up to the castle at the end. But the overall rise from the river to the castle is less than 400 feet.
Getting to Moselkern: To start the hike, take the slow milk-run train (hourly) to Moselkern from Cochem (16 minutes, €4.65). If you’re returning to Cochem, buy a €9.30 round-trip ticket; groups of at least three can get a €19 Minigruppenkarte (covers round-trips for up to 5 people, not valid before 9:00 on weekdays). You can also reach Moselkern from towns on the Rhine (including Cologne and Bacharach) with a change at Koblenz.
Storing Luggage: The Moselkern train station is unstaffed and has no lockers, phones, or taxis. If you need to store luggage, you can leave it at Hotel Moselkern, on the river a five-minute walk from the station (see “Sleeping near Burg Eltz,” earlier); call the hotel in advance to make sure someone will be there when you arrive (tel. 02672/1303). While there’s no charge for storage, consider thanking them by eating at their reasonably priced restaurant (food served Mon-Fri 17:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00) or buying a drink at the hotel bar.
The Hike: The path up to the castle begins at the other end of Moselkern village from the station. Turn right from the station along Oberstrasse, cross the intersection with Weinbergsstrasse, and continue straight along narrow Oberstrasse. In about five minutes, you’ll pass the village church. Keep going straight a few houses past the church; then, as the street ends, turn right through the underpass. On your left is the Elzbach stream that you’ll follow all the way up to the castle. Follow the road straight along the stream through a mostly residential neighborhood. Just before the road crosses the stream on a stone bridge, take either the footpath (stay right) or the bridge—they join up again later.
After about a 30-minute walk from the train station, the road ends at the parking lot of the Hotel Ringelsteiner Mühle. Stay to the right of the hotel and continue upstream along the easy-to-follow trail, which starts out paved but soon changes to dirt—from here, it’s another 45 minutes through the forest to the castle.
If you don’t mind a longer hike, consider a boat ride to the village of Karden, then walk to Burg Eltz from there. (Karden is also on the train line between Cochem and Moselkern.) This two-hour hike is steep in places, and harder to follow and less shady than the hike from Moselkern.
Getting to Karden: Kolb Line riverboat cruises run between Cochem and Karden three times a day in midsummer and less frequently in spring and fall (described on here). Make sure to get off the boat in Karden (not in Treis, across the river). If you come by train, get off at the Treis-Karden stop, which is in Karden but serves both villages.
Storing Luggage: If you need to store luggage before the hike, the elegant Schloss-Hotel Petry, across from the Treis-Karden station, is happy to guard your bags if you eat at their restaurant (€10-22 main courses, lunch daily 12:00-14:00, St. Castorstrasse 80, tel. 02672/9340, www.schloss-hotel-petry.de).
The Hike: The path from Karden to Burg Eltz starts at the far end of Karden village, beyond the white-towered St. Castor’s church (follow Burg Eltz signs). Get a trail map (available locally), and be prepared for full sun when the hike travels through open fields.
Shortcuts: To ride the boat but avoid the lengthy hike to Burg Eltz, you can either hop the hourly train from Treis-Karden to Moselkern and take the shorter 1.5-hour hike from there (described earlier); take the bus from the Treis-Karden station straight up to Burg Eltz on weekends (May-Oct only, described next); or take a taxi from Karden to the castle (see later).
From May through October on Saturdays and Sundays only, bus #330 runs to Burg Eltz from the Treis-Karden railway station (4/day, 30 minutes; leaves Treis-Karden station at 9:00, 11:00, 15:00, and 17:00; leaves from Burg Eltz at 10:15, 12:15, 16:15, and 18:15; confirm times at Cochem TI, with bus operator at tel. 02671/8976, or at www.vrminfo.de). To make the best use of your time, take the 9:00 or 15:00 bus from Treis-Karden to Burg Eltz, and return to Treis-Karden on either the 12:15 or 18:15 bus. This allows you about 2.5 hours to explore the castle.
You can taxi to the castle from Cochem (30 minutes, about €55 one-way for up to 4 people, Cochem taxi tel. 02671/8080), Moselkern (€28 one-way, taxi tel. 02672/1407), or Karden (€30 one-way, taxi tel. 02672/1407). Remember: Even with a taxi, you’ll still have a 15-minute walk from the parking lot to the castle. If you’re planning to taxi from Moselkern, call ahead and ask the taxi to meet your train at Moselkern station. Consider taxiing up to Burg Eltz and then enjoying the hike downhill back to the train station in Moselkern.
Be Careful: Signs direct drivers to two different “Burg Eltz” parking lots—some deceptively take drivers far from the castle, while others get you right there. From Koblenz, leave the river at Hatzenport, following the white Burg Eltz signs through the towns of Münstermaifeld and Wierschem. From Cochem, follow the Münstermaifeld signs from Moselkern. The castle parking lot (€2/day, daily 9:00-18:30) is just over a mile past Wierschem. (Note that the Eltz signs at Moselkern lead to Hotel Ringelsteiner Mühle and the trailhead for the hike to the castle—see next. To drive directly to the castle, ignore the Eltz signs until you reach Münstermaifeld.)
Drive/Hike Combo: If you’re traveling by car but would enjoy walking part of the path from Moselkern up to the castle, drive to Moselkern, follow the Burg Eltz signs up the Elz Valley, park at the Hotel Ringelsteiner Mühle (€3, buy ticket from machine), and hike about 45 minutes up the trail to the castle (full hike described earlier).
Shortcut to Beilstein: If driving from Burg Eltz to Beilstein, you’ll save 30 minutes with this shortcut: Cross the river at Treis-Karden, go through town, and bear right at the swimming pool (direction: Bruttig-Fankel). This overland route deposits you in Bruttig, a scenic three-mile riverside drive from Beilstein.
Just upstream from Cochem is the quaintest of all Mosel towns. Cozy Beilstein (BILE-shtine) is Cinderella-land—touristy but tranquil, except for its territorial swans. Beilstein has zero food shops, zero ATMs (make sure to bring cash), one bus stop, one mailbox, and 180 residents who run about 30 guesthouses and eateries. It’s nicknamed the “Sleeping Beauty of the Mosel” because until about 1900, it was inaccessible except by boat. Beilstein has no TI, but there is an information board by the bus stop, and cafés and guesthouses can give you town info.
Car travelers use Beilstein as a base, day-tripping from here to Cochem, Trier, Burg Eltz, and the Rhine. Overnighting in Beilstein without a car is doable, as long as you check the bus schedule in advance and plan carefully. If you’re staying in Cochem and using public transportation, you can day-trip to Beilstein: Take the bus to Beilstein, follow my self-guided walk up to the castle, have lunch, and then return by boat. While the town is peaceful and a delight in the evening, midday crowds in peak season can trample all its charm and turn it into a human traffic jam. But in the winter (mid-Nov until Easter), Beilstein is dead as a doornail.
Beilstein has no train station, but it’s easy to reach from Cochem—either on bus #716 (May-Oct almost hourly Mon-Fri, 8-10/day on weekends, less frequent Nov-March; last bus departs between 21:00-22:00 except Sun 18:00-19:00, €3.65, www.vrminfo.de), by taxi (about €20), or by one-hour river cruise (4-5/day in each direction May-Oct, weekends only in April, no boats off-season, first departure from Cochem at about 10:30, last departure from Beilstein at about 17:30, €12 one-way, €16 round-trip). If driving, there’s a free lot along the river just upstream from town, under the castle hill. The parking spaces closer-in cost €1/hour during the day (4-hour maximum, use coins to buy ticket from Parkscheinautomat machine by town info board).
Two helpful tips: When looking up schedules on www.bahn.com (the Deutsche Bahn website), Beilstein’s bus stop appears as “Moselstrasse (Beilstein).” On weekends when bus #716 runs infrequently and the Ellenz Fähre ferry is running (see next page for cost and hours), you can reach Beilstein from Cochem via bus #711 along the other side of the river. (This alternative is slightly more expensive, and the ferry’s irregular hours and early closing time complicate it, so I prefer taking the direct #716 bus.) If you go this way, take bus #711 to the Ellenz Fähre stop, then ride the ferry across the river to Beilstein.
Explore the narrow lanes, ancient wine cellar, resident swans, and ruined castle by following this short self-guided walk.
• Stand along the riverfront, by the town info board.
In 1963, the big road and the Mosel locks were built, making the river peaceful today. Before then, access to Beilstein was limited to a tiny one-way lane and the small ferry. Originally, the ferry was motorless and the cables that tethered it allowed the craft to cross the river powered only by the current and an angled rudder. However, since the river was tamed by locks, the current is so weak that the ferry needs its motor. Today, the funky little Ellenz Fähre ferry shuttles people (€1.50), bikes, and cars constantly (Easter-Oct daily 9:00-12:00 & 13:00-18:00, no ferries off-season, wave to summon ferry if captain has paused on opposite bank).
The campground across the river is typical of German campgrounds—nearly all of its residents set up their trailers and tents at Easter and use them as summer homes until October, when the regular floods chase them away for the winter. If you stood where you are now through the winter, you’d have cold water up to your crotch five times.
Look inland. The town was given market rights in 1310 and was essentially an independent city-state for centuries (back when there were 300 such petty kingdoms and dukedoms in what we now call “Germany”). The Earl of Beilstein ruled from his castle above town. He built the Altes Zollhaus in 1634 to levy tolls from river traffic. Today, the castle is a ruin, the last monk at the once-mighty monastery (see the big church high on the left) retired in 2009, and the town’s economy is based only on wine and tourists.
Beilstein is so well-preserved because it was essentially inaccessible by road until about 1900. And its tranquility is a result of Germany’s WWI loss, which cost the country the regions of Alsace and Lorraine (now part of France, these provinces have flip-flopped between the two nations since the Thirty Years’ War). Before World War I, the Koblenz-Trier train line—which connects Lorraine to Germany—was the busiest in the country, tunneling through the grape-laden hill across the river in what was the longest train tunnel in Germany. The construction of a supplemental line designed to follow the riverbank (like the lines that crank up the volume on the Rhine) was stopped in 1914. After Alsace and Lorraine went to France in 1918, the new line no longer made any sense, and the plans were scuttled.
• Follow the main “street” up into town. You’ll notice blue plaques on the left marking the high-water (Hochwasser) points of historic floods. At the first corner, after the Wirtshaus Alte Stadtmauer, go left and find house #13 in the corner.
In the 1300s, several Jewish families were invited to Beilstein after being persecuted and expelled from towns on the Rhine. By 1840, a quarter of the town’s 300 inhabitants were Jewish. The synagogue (which dates from 1310) and the adjacent rabbi’s home were at #13. The medallion above the door shows the Star of David embedded in the double-headed eagle of the Holy Roman Emperor, indicating that the Jews would be protected by the emperor. This was perhaps of some comfort, but not reliable. Of the town’s many Jews, most moved away (to larger German towns or abroad) in the 1800s and early 1900s. Others assimilated, marrying Gentiles and raising their children as Christians (among these was the Lipmann family, whose descendants run the riverfront hotels). By 1933, only one Jewish family was left in Beilstein to deal with the Nazis. There are no practicing Jews in town today. The cemetery above the castle is another interesting Jewish sight (see “Beilstein’s Castle,” later).
• Continue right (uphill) from the synagogue, and then with the church high above, go right again. You’ll reach a long flight of stairs (marked Klostertreppe) that leads to the monastery. Look up (it’s not worth actually going up the stairs).
Although the last Carmelite monk retired several years ago, Rome maintains a handsome but oversized-for-this-little-town Catholic church that runs a restaurant with a great view. It’s a screwy situation that seems to make locals uncomfortable when you ask them about it.
• Continue back to the main street, called...
The town’s main drag runs straight inland through Beilstein, passing through the tunnel you see to the left. It covers up the brook that once flowed through town and used to provide a handy 24/7 disposal service. Today, Bachstrasse is lined with wine cellars. The only way for a small local vintner to make any decent money these days is to sell his wine directly to customers in inviting little places like these.
• Cross Bachstrasse and walk a few steps ahead to the...
For centuries, neighboring farmers sold their goods on Marktplatz. The Zehnthaus (tithe house) was the village IRS, where locals would pay one-tenth (Zehnte) of their produce to their landlord (either the Church or the earl). Pop into the Zehnthauskeller. Stuffed with peasants’ offerings 400 years ago, it’s now packed with vaulted medieval ambience. It’s fun at night for candlelit wine-tasting, soup and cold cuts, and schmaltzy music (often live Fri and Sat). The adjacent Bürgerhaus (above the fountain) had nothing to do with medieval fast food. First the village church, then the residence of the Bürger (like a mayor), and later the communal oven and the village grade school, today it’s where locals hold a big party or wedding (upstairs) and a venue for local craftspeople to show their goodies (below). Haus Lipmann (on the riverside, now a recommended hotel and restaurant) dates from 1727. It was built by the earl’s family as a residence after the French destroyed his castle. Haus Lipmann’s main dining hall was once the knights’ hall.
• Leave the square going uphill and follow the main street through the tunnel and up to the top end of town. Then bear right up the stairs (follow signs for Burgruine Metternich) to...
Beilstein once rivaled Cochem as the most powerful town on this part of the Mosel. Like so much around here, it was destroyed by the French in 1689. Its castle (officially named Burg Metternich) is a sorry ruin today, but those who make the steep 10-minute climb are rewarded with a postcard Mosel view and a chance to hike even higher to the top of its lone surviving tower (€2.50, Easter-Oct daily 9:00-18:00, closed Nov-Easter, view café/restaurant, tel. 02673/93639, www.burgmetternich.de).
For more exercise and an even better viewpoint, exit through the turnstile at the rear of the castle. Take the uphill (left-hand) road, and after 100 yards, fork right. Here you’ll find the ultimate “castle/river bend/carpets of vineyards” photo op. The derelict roadside vineyard is a sign of recent times—the younger generation is abandoning the family plots, opting out of all that hard winemaking work.
From this viewpoint, continue another 100 yards farther up the road to the small but evocative Jewish cemetery (Jüdische Friedhof).
To reach the viewpoint and the cemetery without going through the castle, continue up the road past the castle entrance, then follow the signs for Jüdische Friedhof.
• From here, you can return to the castle gate, ring the bell (Klingel), and show your ticket to get back in and retrace your steps; or continue on the road, which curves and leads downhill (a gravel path at the next bend on the left leads back into town).
Boats come and go all day for extremely relaxing river trips (for details, see here). While scenic, these rides can take longer than you’d like because of the locks. I prefer a riverside bike ride (perhaps combined with a boat trip). Biking is very popular along the Mosel, and roads are accompanied by smooth and perfectly flat bike lanes. The lanes are separate from the car traffic, letting you really relax as you pedal through gorgeous riverside scenery. To rent a quality bike in Beilstein, visit Herr Nahlen (€8/day, April-Oct daily 9:00-12:00, return bikes between 16:00 and 19:00, no rentals Nov-March, reservations smart for groups, Bachstrasse 47, tel. 02673/1840, www.fahrradverleih-in-beilstein.de).
Five-Hour Trip to Zell and Back: You could rent a bike in Beilstein, catch the 9:20 boat to Zell (2.5-hour ride), enjoy that pretty town, and cycle 15 miles back to Beilstein along the sleepy and windy riverside bike path.
Hour-and-a-Half Loop: For a shorter bike trip, ride the little ferry across the river from Beilstein, explore the campground, continue left past Poltersdorf, cycle under vineyards to Senhals, cross the bridge to Senheim, and return to Beilstein on the other side of the river. At the edge of Mesenich, leave the road and take the peaceful bike lane along the river, explore another campground, and head for Beilstein, with its castle in the distance encouraging you home.
Beilstein’s hotels shut down from at least December through mid-March. All of the listings here are just steps from the bus stop and boat dock, except for Hotel Lipmann am Klosterberg. Only Hotel Gute Quelle accepts credit cards.
$$$ Hotel Haus Lipmann is your chance to live in a medieval mansion with hot showers and TVs. A prizewinner for atmosphere, it’s been in the Lipmann family since 1795. The creaky wooden staircase and the elegant dining hall, with long wooden tables surrounded by antlers, chandeliers, and feudal weapons, will get you in the mood for your castle sightseeing, but the riverside terrace may mace your momentum. There are six guest rooms in the main building and six larger rooms in an equally old building next door. The entire family—Marion (née Lipmann) and her husband Jonas Thölén, their hardworking son David, and his wife Anja—hustle for their guests (Db-€100-130, usually €20 higher Fri-Sat, higher prices are for Mosel views, discount for 2 or more nights, extra bed-€30, family deals, cash only, €19 half-board—sensible here, closed Nov-Easter, Marktplatz 3, tel. 02673/1573, www.hotel-haus-lipmann.com, hotel.haus.lipmann@t-online.de).
$$$ Hotel Lipmann Am Klosterberg, run by Marion’s brother Joachim and his wife Marlene, is a big, modern place with 16 comfortable rooms at the extremely quiet top of town (Sb-€55-75, Db-€85-110, closed mid-Nov-Easter, elevator, easy free parking, Auf dem Teich 8, up the main street 200 yards inland, tel. 02673/1850, www.hotel-lipmann.de, lipmann@t-online.de).
$$$ Hotel Lipmann Altes Zollhaus, run by Joachim Lipmann’s daughter Julia, packs all the comforts into eight tight, bright riverfront rooms (Sb-€85-85, Db-€85-100, free parking at Hotel Lipmann Am Klosterberg, also has a restaurant—see “Eating in Beilstein,” later).
$$ The welcoming Gasthaus Winzerschenke an der Klostertreppe is a great value, with five rooms right at the bottom of the stairs to the cloister (Db-€65, bigger Db-€80, cash only, discount for 5-night stays, closed Nov-Easter, go up main street and take second left onto Fürst-Metternich-Strasse, reception in restaurant, tel. 02673/1354, www.winzerschenke-beilstein.de, winzerschenke-beilstein@t-online.de, young and eager Stefanie and Christian Sausen).
$$ Hotel Gute Quelle offers half-timbers, a good restaurant, and 13 inviting rooms up a narrow stairway, plus seven more in an annex across the street (Sb-€42, Db-€68-84, less if staying 4 nights, credit cards accepted, closed Dec-mid-March, Marktplatz 34, tel. 02673/1437, www.hotel-gute-quelle.de, info@hotel-gute-quelle.de, helpful Susan speaks Irish). The hotel also has five bigger, very quiet, family-sized rooms (Tb/Qb €110-120) and an apartment that sleeps up to four in an adjacent building (Tb/Qb €100-160).
You’ll have no problem in Beilstein finding a characteristic dining room or a relaxing riverview terrace.
Restaurant Haus Lipmann serves good, fresh food with daily specials on a glorious, leafy riverside terrace. For a wonderful trip memory, enjoy a slow meal here while watching the lazy riverside action and the changing light on the distant vineyards (€8-22 main courses, Easter-Oct daily 10:00-22:00, last meal order at 20:00, closed Nov-Easter).
The restaurant at Hotel Lipmann Altes Zollhaus serves specialties cooked on a lava-stone grill (€8-27 main courses, Thu-Tue 11:00-22:00, closed Wed). The adjoining Alte Stadtmauer restaurant is run by Joachim Lipmann’s daughter Kristina (€8-27 main courses, Wed-Mon 11:00-22:00, closed Tue and mid-Nov-Easter).
The Zehnthauskeller on the Marktplatz is the place for wine tasting, a light meal, and lively Schlager music (kitschy German folk-pop). Hang with old locals on holiday, sitting under a dark medieval vault or out in the Marktplatz (soup, Flammkuchen—German version of white pizza, €9-11 cold plates, Easter-Oct Tue-Sun 11:00-22:00, closed Mon and Nov-Easter, run by Joachim Lipmann’s daughter Sabine).
The recommended Hotel Gute Quelle runs a popular restaurant with classic, well-presented German dishes (€11-17 main courses, €9 daily specials, daily 11:00-21:00, closed Nov-mid-March, Marktplatz 34).