USING YOUR OWN MOBILE DEVICE IN EUROPE
USING A EUROPEAN SIM CARD IN A MOBILE PHONE
USING LANDLINES AND COMPUTERS IN EUROPE
Map: German Public Transportation
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. To study ahead and round out your knowledge, check out “Resources.”
Germany’s national tourist office in the US is a wealth of information. Before your trip, scan their website (www.germany.travel) for maps and Rhine boat schedules, as well as information on festivals, castles, hiking, biking, genealogy, cities, and regions. Travel brochures can also be downloaded from their website.
In Germany, your best first stop in every town is generally the tourist information office—abbreviated TI in this book. Throughout Germany, you’ll find TIs are usually well-organized and have English-speaking staff. Be aware that TIs are in business to help you enjoy spending money in their town. A few TIs, notably in Berlin, have been privatized. This means they have become sales agents for big tours and hotels, and their “information” is unavoidably colored.
Even if they are overly commercial, TIs are good places to pick up a city map and get information on public transit (including bus and train schedules), walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Prepare a list of questions and a proposed plan to double-check. Many TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so try to pick up maps for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip. If you’re arriving in town after the TI closes, call ahead or pick up a map in a neighboring town.
Some TIs offer a room-booking service for a fee, though they’re unable to give hard opinions on the relative value of one place over another. It’s best to go direct with the listings in this book. But in a pinch, you could use the TI (or consult an online booking site, which can provide a broader range of options).
Emergency and Medical Help: In Germany, dial 112 for police help or a medical emergency. If you get sick, do as the Germans do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see here). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help. To minimize the effects of loss, back up your digital photos and other files frequently.
Time Zones: Germany, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, see www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: In Germany, most shops are open from about 9:00 until 18:00-20:00 on weekdays. In small towns, shops may take a mid-afternoon break (roughly between 12:00 and 14:00 or 15:00). Banks are generally open Monday to Friday from 9:00 to 15:00 (or even later, up to 19:00). Many museums and sights are closed on Monday.
Saturdays are virtually weekdays, though banks are closed, and stores generally close early—anywhere between 12:00 and 17:00, depending on whether you’re in a town or a big city. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open, while shops and banks are closed, public transportation options are fewer, and there’s no rush hour. Friday and Saturday evenings are lively; Sunday evenings are quiet.
Catholic regions, including Bavaria, shut down during religious holidays (see here). Turkish-owned shops are usually open later than other stores, as are shops in train stations, which often have grocery stores that are open long hours.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter plug, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe.
Discounts: Discounts are not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 60 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights. Always ask. Some discounts are available only for citizens of the European Union (EU).
Online Translation Tips: You can use Google’s Chrome browser (available free at www.google.com/chrome) to instantly translate websites. With one click, the page appears in (very rough) English translation. You can also paste the URL of the site into the translation window at www.google.com/translate. The Google Translate app converts spoken English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your mobile device’s camera.
This section offers advice on how to pay for purchases on your trip (including getting cash from ATMs and paying with plastic), dealing with lost or stolen cards, VAT (sales tax) refunds, and tipping.
Bring both a credit card and a debit card. You’ll use the debit card at cash machines (ATMs) to withdraw local cash for most purchases, and the credit card to pay for larger items. Some travelers carry a third card, in case one gets demagnetized or eaten by a temperamental machine.
For an emergency stash, bring several hundred dollars in hard cash in $20 bills. If you need to exchange the bills, go to a bank; avoid using currency-exchange booths because of their lousy rates and/or outrageous (and often hard-to-spot) fees.
Cash is just as desirable in Europe as it is at home. Especially in smaller cities, expect to use cash for most purchases. Small businesses (pensions, mom-and-pop cafés, shops, etc.) prefer that you pay your bills with cash. Some vendors will charge you extra for using a credit card, some won’t accept foreign credit cards, and some won’t take any credit cards at all. Cash is the best—and sometimes only—way to pay for cheap food, bus fare, taxis, and local guides.
Throughout Europe, ATMs are the standard way for travelers to get cash. They work just like they do at home. To withdraw money from an ATM (known as a Geldautomat in Germany; Bankomat in Austria), you’ll need a debit card (ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo for maximum usability), plus a PIN code (numeric and four digits). For increased security, shield the keypad when entering your PIN code, and don’t use an ATM if anything on the front of the machine looks loose or damaged (a sign that someone may have attached a “skimming” device to capture account information). Try to withdraw large sums of money to reduce the number of per-transaction bank fees you’ll pay.
When possible, use ATMs located outside banks—a thief is less likely to target a cash machine near surveillance cameras, and if your card is munched by a machine, you can go inside for help. Stay away from “independent” ATMs such as Travelex, Euronet, YourCash, Cardpoint, and Cashzone, which charge huge commissions, have terrible exchange rates, and may try to trick users with dynamic currency conversion (described at the end of “Credit and Debit Cards,” next). Although you can use a credit card to withdraw cash at an ATM, this comes with high bank fees and only makes sense in an emergency.
While traveling, if you want to monitor your accounts online to detect any unauthorized transactions, be sure to use a secure connection (see here).
Pickpockets target tourists. To safeguard your cash, wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket.
Many shops and restaurants in Germany don’t accept plastic (except for the local “EC” debit cards). Larger hotels, restaurants, and shops that do take US cards more commonly accept Visa and MasterCard than American Express. I typically use my debit card to withdraw cash to pay for most purchases. I use my credit card sparingly: to book hotel reservations, to buy advance tickets for events or sights, to cover major expenses (such as car rentals or plane tickets), to buy train tickets at the ticket counter (Deutsche Bahn ticket machines may not accept US cards without a chip), and to pay for things online or near the end of my trip (to avoid another visit to the ATM). While you could instead use a debit card for these purchases, a credit card offers a greater degree of fraud protection.
Ask Your Credit- or Debit-Card Company: Before your trip, contact the company that issued your debit or credit cards.
• Confirm that your card will work overseas, and alert them that you’ll be using it in Europe; otherwise, they may deny transactions if they perceive unusual spending patterns.
• Ask for the specifics on transaction fees. When you use your credit or debit card—either for purchases or ATM withdrawals—you’ll typically be charged additional “international transaction” fees of up to 3 percent (1 percent is normal) plus $5 per transaction. If your card’s fees seem high, consider getting a different card just for your trip: Capital One (www.capitalone.com) and most credit unions have low-to-no international fees.
• Verify your daily ATM withdrawal limit, and if necessary, ask your bank to adjust it. I prefer a high limit that allows me to take out more cash at each ATM stop and save on bank fees; some travelers prefer to set a lower limit in case their card is stolen. Note that foreign banks also set maximum withdrawal amounts for their ATMs.
• Get your bank’s emergency phone number in the US (but not its 800 number, which isn’t accessible from overseas) to call collect if you have a problem.
• Ask for your credit card’s PIN in case you need to make an emergency cash withdrawal or encounter Europe’s chip-and-PIN system; the bank won’t tell you your PIN over the phone, so allow time for it to be mailed to you.
Magnetic-Stripe versus Chip-and-PIN Credit Cards: Europeans are increasingly using chip-and-PIN credit cards embedded with an electronic security chip and requiring a four-digit PIN. Your American-style card (with just the old-fashioned magnetic stripe) will work fine in most places. But there could be minor inconveniences; it might not work at unattended payment machines, such as those at train and subway stations, toll plazas, parking garages, bike-rental kiosks, and gas pumps. If you have problems, try entering your card’s PIN, look for a machine that takes cash, or find a clerk who can process the transaction manually.
Major US banks are beginning to offer credit cards with chips. Many of these are not true chip-and-PIN cards, but instead are chip-and-signature cards, for which your signature verifies your identity. These cards should work for live transactions and at most payment machines, but won’t work for offline transactions such as at unattended gas pumps. If you’re concerned, ask if your bank offers a true chip-and-PIN card. Andrews Federal Credit Union (www.andrewsfcu.org) and the State Department Federal Credit Union (www.sdfcu.org) offer these cards and are open to all US residents.
No matter what kind of card you have, it pays to carry euros; remember, you can always use an ATM to withdraw cash with your magnetic-stripe debit card.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: If merchants or hoteliers offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay even more in fees for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. If your receipt shows the total in dollars only, ask for the transaction to be processed in the local currency. If the clerk refuses, pay in cash—or mark the receipt “local currency not offered” and dispute the DCC charges with your bank.
Some ATMs and retailers try to confuse customers by presenting DCC in misleading terms. If an ATM offers to “lock in” or “guarantee” your conversion rate, choose “proceed without conversion.” Other prompts might state, “You can be charged in dollars: Press YES for dollars, NO for euros.” Always choose the local currency in these situations.
If you lose your credit, debit, or ATM card, you can stop people from using your card by reporting the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). In Germany, to make a collect call to the US, dial 0800-225-5288. Press zero or stay on the line for an English-speaking operator. European toll-free numbers (listed by country) can be found at the websites for Visa and MasterCard.
Try to have this information ready: full card number, whether you are the primary or secondary cardholder, the cardholder’s name exactly as printed on the card, billing address, home phone number, circumstances of the loss or theft, and identification verification (your birth date, your mother’s maiden name, or your Social Security number—memorize this; don’t carry a copy). If you are the secondary cardholder, you’ll also need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details. You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for any unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping in Germany isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: You don’t need to tip if you order your food at a counter. At German restaurants that have a wait staff, it’s common to tip by rounding up (about 10 percent) after a good meal. For details on tipping in restaurants, see here.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if your fare is €4.70, pay €5). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip for a service, ask a local for advice.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your German souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of 19 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €25 (about $28) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount.
Getting your refund is usually straightforward and, if you buy a substantial amount of souvenirs, well worth the hassle. If you’re lucky, the merchant will subtract the tax when you make your purchase. (This is more likely to occur if the store ships the goods to your home.) Otherwise, you’ll need to:
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document, called a “Tax-Free Shopping Cheque.” You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Arrive an additional hour before you need to check in for your flight to allow time to find the local customs office—and to stand in line. It’s best to keep your purchases in your carry-on. If they’re too large or dangerous to carry on (such as knives), pack them in your checked bags and alert the check-in agent. You’ll be sent (with your tagged bag) to a customs desk outside security; someone will examine your bag, stamp your paperwork, and put your bag on the belt. You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your new lederhosen, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. You’ll need to return your stamped document to the retailer or its representative. Many merchants work with a service, such as Global Blue or Premier Tax Free, that have offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, probably strategically located near a duty-free shop). These services, which extract a 4 percent fee, can refund your money immediately in cash or credit your card (within two billing cycles). If the retailer handles VAT refunds directly, it’s up to you to contact the merchant for your refund. You can mail the documents from home, or more quickly, from your point of departure (using an envelope you’ve prepared in advance or one that’s been provided by the merchant). You’ll then have to wait—it can take months.
You are allowed to take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. You can take home many processed and packaged foods: vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Germany’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see the “At a Glance” sidebars for Munich, Salzburg, Berlin, and Hamburg. Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is on here; check online for possible museum closures during your trip. In summer, some sights stay open late. Off-season, many museums have shorter hours.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds.
Study up. To get the most out of the sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: Be warned that you may not be allowed to enter if you arrive 30 to 60 minutes before closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Some important sights have a security check, where you must open your bag or send it through a metal detector. Most museums in Germany require you to check any bag bigger than a purse, and sometimes even purses. Museum lockers are free, but be prepared to pay a €1 or €2 deposit.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban photos altogether.
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Audioguides and Apps: Many sights rent audioguides, which generally offer useful recorded descriptions in English (about $3-6; often included with admission). If you bring along your earbuds, you can enjoy better sound and avoid holding the device to your ear. To save money, bring a Y-jack and share one audioguide with your travel partner. Increasingly, museums and sights offer apps—often free—that you can download to your mobile device (check their websites). I’ve produced free, downloadable audio tours for my Salzburg Town Walk, Best of Berlin City Walk, Best of the Rhine Tour, Rothenburg Town Walk, and Munich City Walk; look for the 
symbol. For more on my audio tours, see here.
Services: Some sights offer tours in English. They are most likely to be available during peak season (they can be included with your admission or cost up to $10, and range wildly in quality). If sights offer short films featuring their highlights and history, they’re generally well worth your time.
Important sights often have an on-site café or cafeteria (usually a good place to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at many sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure that you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see.
Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction—not the final word.
Good-value accommodations in Germany are generally easy to find, comfortable, and include a hearty breakfast (typically an all-you-can-eat buffet). Choose from hotels; smaller, cheaper hotels and bed-and-breakfasts (called Gasthof, Gasthaus, or Pension); rooms in private homes (advertised with a Zimmer Frei sign); self-catering apartments rented by the week (Ferienwohnung); and hostels (Jugendherberge).
I favor hotels and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. Rather than list hotels scattered throughout a city, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods. My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to fancy rooms with all of the comforts.
A major feature of the Sleeping sections of this book is my extensive and opinionated listing of good-value rooms. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner and stable staff, run with a respect for German traditions, and not listed in other guidebooks. (In Germany, for me, meeting six out of these eight criteria means it’s a keeper.) I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a pricey laundry service.
Book your accommodations well in advance, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See here for a list of major holidays and festivals in Germany; for tips on making reservations, see here. When booking, be aware that some German cities have multiple hotels with the same name—so double-check that you are contacting the right one.
Some people make reservations as they travel, calling hotels a few days to a week before their arrival. If you’d rather travel without any reservations at all, you’ll have greater success snaring rooms if you arrive at your destination early in the day. If you anticipate crowds (weekends are worst), on the day you want to check in, call hotels at about 9:00 or 10:00, when the receptionist knows who’ll be checking out and which rooms will be available. If you encounter a language barrier, ask the fluent receptionist at your current hotel to call for you.
I’ve noted family-friendly hotels in the listings. Families do well to send an email with the ages of all those traveling and let the staff suggest a good-value configuration. Most hotels give families with smaller children a discounted triple or quad room, and a few let children as old as 12 stay free.
Air-conditioning is rare (and rarely needed). If you’re here during a heat spell, ask to borrow a fan. Learn how the windows work: You’ll often find the windows tipped open from the top to air out the room, with the window handle pointing up. To close the window, push it in and rotate the handle so it points down. The third handle position is horizontal, which lets you swing the entire window open.
In Germany, as elsewhere in northern Europe, beds don’t come with a top sheet or blankets, but only with a comforter. A double bed comes with two comforters—rather than one bigger one. It also frequently has two separate mattresses and sometimes two separate (but adjacent) frames—even if the bed is intended for couples. (A “real” double bed with a single mattress is called a Französisches Bett—a French bed.) Rooms with truly separate twin beds are less common in German hotels. When Americans request separate beds, German hotels sometimes give them normal doubles with complete sincerity—reasoning that the mattresses, though adjacent, are separate.
Because the train system in Germany is convenient and popular, both locals and foreigners have discovered that staying near the station saves hauling luggage. The concept of the train-station hotel, which went out of favor during the 20th century, is making a big comeback in Germany. Munich, Füssen, Baden-Baden, Frankfurt, Würzburg, Cologne, Nürnberg, Leipzig, and Dresden are among the destinations in this book that have good-value lodgings within steps of the train station.
I’ve described my recommended accommodations using a Sleep Code (see sidebar on opposite page). The prices I list are for one-night stays in peak season, and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel (not through an online hotel-booking engine or TI). Booking services extract a commission from the hotel, which logically closes the door on special deals. Book direct.
My recommended hotels each have a website (often with a built-in booking form) and an email address; you can expect a response in English within a day (and often sooner).
If you’re on a budget, it’s smart to email several hotels to ask for their best price. Comparison-shop and make your choice. This is especially helpful when dealing with larger hotels that use “dynamic pricing,” a computer-generated system that predicts the demand for particular days and sets prices accordingly: High-demand days can be more than double the price of low-demand days. This makes it impossible for a guidebook to list anything more accurate than a wide range of prices. I regret this trend. While you can assume that hotels listed in this book are good, it’s difficult to say which ones are the better values unless you email to confirm the price.
As you look over the listings, you’ll notice that some accommodations promise special prices to Rick Steves readers. To get these rates, you must book direct (that is, not through a booking site like TripAdvisor or Booking.com), mention this book when you reserve, and then show the book upon arrival. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with ebooks as well as printed books. Because I trust hotels to honor this, please let me know if you don’t receive a listed discount. Note, though, that discounts understandably may not be applied to promotional rates.
At some places, singles are actually double rooms used by one person—so they cost about the same as a double. Single travelers get the best value at places (usually smaller ones) where the price of a single is only a little more than half that of a double. This includes hostels, which always charge per person. In contrast, groups of four adults can often snare a four-bed room (with its own bath) in a hotel or B&B for about the same price a hostel would charge.
Especially in vacation areas and in private homes, where the boss changes the sheets, people staying several nights are most desirable. Some hotels phrase this as a discount for longer stays, while others call it a surcharge for one-nighters.
In some resort towns such as Baden-Baden and Staufen, visitors pay a small spa tax (per person and per night) that’s added to their bill. Some cities require hoteliers to charge a daily tourist tax (about €1-5/person per day; in Berlin, it’s 5 percent of the room rate). This may be included in the room price or may appear as an extra charge on your bill.
Most hostels and some hotels and B&Bs offer half-board (Halbpension), which means that dinner is included in the room price. This is often a good deal and gets you a hassle-free, value-priced three-course meal, but limits your choices. Many hotels (including the Ibis chain) give you the option of skipping breakfast and paying less. Although German hotel breakfasts are usually excellent, you can buy breakfast items easily and cheaply at a bakery or supermarket—the savings add up, especially for families.
In general, prices can soften if you do any of the following: book direct, offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or mention this book. You can also try asking for a cheaper room or a discount, or offer to skip breakfast.
In this book, the price for a double room in a hotel ranges from €45 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to €200-plus (maximum plumbing and the works). In small towns, such as Bacharach or Rothenburg, you can find a good double with a private bath for under €80; in more expensive cities like Munich or Baden-Baden, you’ll usually pay €100 or more.
While I favor smaller, family-run hotels, occasionally a chain hotel can be a good value; the Europe-wide Ibis/Mercure chain has several branches in Germany (www.accorhotels.com). I’m impressed with the homegrown, Hamburg-based German chain called Motel One, which specializes in affordable style and has branches in Berlin, Munich, Nürnberg, Hamburg, Frankfurt, Cologne, Leipzig, Dresden, and other cities (www.motel-one.com).
Room prices depend on the season and the day of the week, but peak times vary from one town to the next. Low season in Rothenburg is January-March, in Füssen it’s October-May, and in Nürnberg it’s July and August. While weekends are cheaper in Frankfurt and Nürnberg, weekdays are cheaper in Trier, Dresden, and Füssen. Munich hotels generally keep the same prices all week.
Hotel lobbies, halls, and breakfast rooms are off-limits to smokers, though they can light up in their rooms. Most hotels have non-smoking rooms or floors—let them know your preference when you book. Some hotels have gone completely non-smoking.
Bigger hotels commonly have elevators. When you’re inside an elevator, press “E” if you want to descend to the “ground floor” (Erdgeschoss). Hotel elevators, while becoming more common, are often very small—pack light, or you may need to take your bags up one at a time.
If you’re arriving early in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Drop your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
Hoteliers can be a great help and source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a Wi-Fi hotspot.
Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Air-conditioning malfunctions, sinks leak, hot water turns cold, and toilets gurgle and smell. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated issues, don’t expect instant results.
If you suspect night noise will be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one.
Checkout can pose problems if surprise charges pop up on your bill. If you settle your bill the afternoon before you leave, you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention (before 19:00, when the night shift usually arrives).
Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the city you came to see.
Compared to hotels, bed-and-breakfast places (Pensionen, Gasthäuser, or Gasthöfe) give you double the cultural intimacy for half the price. While you may lose some of the conveniences of a hotel—such as in-room phones, frequent bed-sheet changes, and the ease of paying with a credit card—I happily make the trade-off for the lower rates and personal touches. If you have a reasonable but limited budget, skip hotels and look for smaller, family-run places.
The smallest establishments consist of private homes with rooms (Zimmer) rented out to travelers. Look for Zimmer Frei or Privatzimmer signs. These are inexpensive—as little as €20 per person with a hearty breakfast—and very common in areas popular with travelers (such as Germany’s Rhine, the Romantic Road region, and southern Bavaria, and Austria’s Tirol and Salzburg). Signs indicate whether they have available rooms (Zimmer frei, green) or not (Zimmer belegt, orange). TIs often have a list of private rooms; use the list to book rooms yourself to avoid having the TI take a cut from you and your host.
You’ll get your own key to a private room that’s clean, comfortable, and simple, though usually homey. Germans, especially in the south, are enthusiastic builders who like showing off their carpentry and decorating skills. Some private rooms are like mini-guesthouses, with a separate entrance and several rooms, each with a private bath. Others are family homes with spare bedrooms (the rooms sometimes lack sinks, but you have free access to the bathroom and shower in the home).
Germans depend heavily on expensive imported fuel and are very aware of their energy use. In any smaller establishment, you’ll endear yourself to your hosts if you turn off lights when you leave and avoid excessively long showers.
A hostel (Jugendherberge) provides cheap beds where you sleep alongside strangers for about €25 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Nowadays, concerned about bedbugs, hostels are likely to provide all bedding, including sheets. Family and private rooms may be available on request.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required); www.hostelworld.com is the standard way that backpackers search and book hostels, but also try www.hostelz.com and www.hostels.com.
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay extra per night.
Renting an apartment, house, or villa can be a fun and cost-effective way to go local. Hotels and B&Bs, including those in this book, often have an apartment or two (breakfast is not included). In rural areas, you can find reasonably priced vacation rentals (Ferienwohnungen), ideal for families and small groups who want to explore a region. This kind of arrangement is very popular with German vacationers. You usually get a suite of two or three rooms with a kitchen. The owners discourage short stays and usually require a minimum rental period (3-5 days), and sometimes a deposit. If you’ll be in one place for a while, the rate per night generally works out cheaper than in a hotel or guesthouse room.
Websites such as Booking.com, Airbnb, VRBO, and FlipKey let you browse properties and correspond directly with European property owners or managers. Airbnb and Roomorama also list rooms in private homes. Beds range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. If you want a place to sleep that’s free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
Germanic cuisine is heavy, hearty, and—by European standards—inexpensive. Each region has its specialties, which are often good values. Order house specials whenever possible. Though it’s tasty, German food can get monotonous unless you look beyond the schnitzel and wurst. Fortunately, German chefs are increasingly adopting international influences, picking up previously unknown spices and ingredients to jazz up “Modern German” cuisine. Be adventurous.
When restaurant hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
Most German hotels and pensions include breakfast in the room price and pride themselves on laying out an attractive buffet spread. Even if you’re not a big breakfast eater, take advantage of the buffet to fortify yourself for a day of sightseeing. Expect sliced bread, rolls, pastries, cereal, yogurt (both plain and with fruit), cold cuts, cheese, and fruit. You’ll always find coffee, tea, and some sort of Saft (juice). Along with orange, apple, and grapefruit, multivitamin juice is popular. This sweet, smooth blend of various fruits is less acidic than a citrus juice. A bottle of mineral water is standing by to mix with any juice to turn it into a Schorle (spritzer).
For breakfast, most Germans prefer a sandwich with cold cuts and/or a bowl of Müsli (an oat cereal like granola, but less sweet), sometimes mixed with corn flakes. Instead of pouring milk over cereal, most Germans begin with a dollop of yogurt (or Quark—sweet curds that resemble yogurt), then sprinkle the cereal on top. If it’s not sweet enough, drizzle on some Honig (honey). Bircher Müsli is a healthy mix of oats, nuts, yogurt, and fruit. To make a German-style sandwich for breakfast, layer Aufschnitt (cold cuts), Schinken (ham), Streichwurst (meat spread, most often Leberwurst—liver spread), and Käse (cheese) on a slice of bread or a roll.
If a buffet has eggs, they’re most likely soft-boiled (weichgekochte Eier). To eat it as the Germans do, set the egg in its stand, gently break the shell around its perimeter, remove the top half of the shell, salt it, and eat it as if from a tiny bowl. If eggs are hard-boiled (hartgekochte Eier), just peel and slice. Hard-boiled eggs are often served with rémoulade (similar to tartar sauce). Occasionally a buffet will have Rühreier (scrambled eggs) or Spiegeleier (fried eggs—literally “mirror eggs”—typically sunny-side up).
In some hotels, a little plastic garbage can is set on the table for you to dispose of trash as you eat.
Traditional restaurants go by many names. For basic, stick-to-the-ribs meals—and plenty of beer—look for a beer hall (Brauhaus) or beer garden (Biergarten). Gasthaus, Gasthof, Gaststätte, and Gaststube all loosely describe an informal, inn-type eatery. A Kneipe is a bar, and a Keller (or Ratskeller) is a restaurant or tavern located in a cellar. A Weinstube serves wine and usually traditional food as well.
Germans are health-conscious and quite passionate about choosing organic (Bio) products: Bio fruits and vegetables, and even Bio bread, ice cream, and schnitzel. You’ll often see footnotes on restaurant menus marking which dishes have artificial ingredients. However, despite Germans’ healthy ways, many starchy, high-fat, high-calorie traditional foods remain staples of the national diet. (For a rundown of common German foods, see “Traditional German Fare,” later.)
Most eateries have menus tacked onto their front doors, with an English menu inside. If you see a Stammtisch sign hanging over a table at a restaurant or pub, it means that it’s reserved for regulars—don’t sit here unless invited. Once you’re seated, take your time—only a rude waiter will rush you. Good service is relaxed (slow to an American).
To wish others “Happy eating!” offer a cheery “Guten Appetit!” When you want the bill, say, “Die Rechnung, bitte” (dee REHKH-noong, BIT-teh).
Tipping: You only need to tip at restaurants that have table service. If you order your food at a counter, don’t tip. At restaurants with wait staff, it’s common to tip after a good meal by rounding up (roughly 10 percent). Rather than leaving coins behind on the table (considered slightly rude), Germans usually pay directly: When the server comes by with the bill, simply hand over paper money, stating the total you’d like to pay. For example, if paying for a €10 meal with a €20 bill, while handing your money to the server, say “Eleven, please” (or “Elf, bitte” if you’ve got your German numbers down). The server will keep a €1 tip and give you €9 in change.
Lately, many restaurants—especially those in well-touristed areas—have added a “Tip is not included” line, in English, to the bottom of the bill. This is misleading, as the prices on any menu in Germany do include service. I wouldn’t tip one cent more at a restaurant that includes this note on the bill. (Supposedly the trend’s been prompted by an influx of tourists from cultures where it’s not customary to round up...though I’ve seen servers circle the “tip not included” line before presenting the bill to Americans, who are known to overtip.) Many Germans are rebelling by tipping far less generously at eateries using this approach.
It’s easy to eat a meal for €10 or less in Germany. At lunchtime, locals grab a sandwich (around €2.50) and perhaps a pastry (€1-2) from one of the ubiquitous bakeries, which often have tables to sit at (but not table service). If there aren’t any sandwiches on display at the bakery counter, ask to have one made for you.
Department-store cafeterias (usually on the top floor with a view) are common and handy, and they bridge the language barrier by letting you see your options. A Schnellimbiss is a small fast-food takeaway stand where you can get a bratwurst or other grilled sausage (usually less than €2, including a roll); for a rundown of common sausages, see here. Turkish-style Döner Kebab (gyro-like, pita-wrapped rotisserie meat) stands and shops are also common (described below, under “Ethnic Food”).
Most restaurants offer inexpensive €6-9 weekday hot-lunch specials that aren’t listed on the regular menu (look for the Tageskarte or Tagesangebot, or just ask—sometimes available at dinner, too). For smaller portions, order from the kleine Hunger (small hunger) section of the menu. Simple dishes of wurst with sauerkraut and bread tend to run €6-8.
All schnitzeled out? Ethnic restaurants provide a welcome break from Germanic fare. Italian, Turkish, and Asian food are generally good values, and Asian restaurants tend to serve inexpensive lunches. A rice or noodle dish, a freshly baked pizza, or a Turkish sandwich will cost you only €4-7, and can be packed up to enjoy on a park bench or in your room.
Originally from Turkey, Döner Kebab (sliced meat and vegetables served in pita bread) has become a classic takeout meal for Germans of all stripes (€4 at any time of day). Turkish cafés abound, even in small towns. Take a moment to study the menu; beyond the basic Döner, you can get a Döner Teller (on a plate instead of in bread), a Döner Dürüm (in a thin, tortilla-like flatbread wrap, also called Dürüm Kebab or Yufka), falafel (chickpea croquettes), “Turkish pizzas,” and much more.
Here are some typical dishes you’ll see at German eateries.
Traditional German dishes tend to be meat-heavy. The classic dish is sausage—hundreds of varieties of bratwurst, Weisswurst, and other types of wurst are served with sauerkraut as an excuse for a vegetable (see here for a list of common types of wurst).
Many traditional eateries serve some kind of meat on the bone, such as pork knuckle (Schweinshaxe) or shoulder, which has been roasted tender and goes down well with a big mug of beer. The fish and venison here are also good.
Another ubiquitous meat dish is schnitzel (a meat cutlet that’s been pounded flat, breaded, and fried). Though traditionally made with veal, pork schnitzel is cheaper and more common.
One word you’ll often see stuck on the beginning and end of menu items is Braten (which can mean “roasted” or “grilled” or “fried”)—as in Bratkartoffeln (roasted potatoes), Schweinebraten (roasted pork), or Bratwurst (grilled sausage).
Here are a few other specialties—both regional and nationwide—to look for:
Dampfnudeln: Steamed bread roll with various toppings (also available sweet).
Flammkuchen (or Dünnele): German version of white pizza, on a thin, yeastless dough; the classic version is topped with bacon and onions.
Frikadellen (also called Klopse; in Berlin, Buletten; and in Bavaria, Fleischpfanzerl): Giant meatball, sometimes flattened like a hamburger.
Geschnetzeltes: Strips of veal or chicken braised in a rich sauce and served with noodles.
Kassler: Salted, slightly smoked pork.
Kohlrouladen: Cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat.
Königsberger Klopse (or Sossklopse): Meatball with capers and potatoes in a white sauce (a staple of eastern Germany).
Kümmelbraten: Crispy roast pork with caraway.
Labskaus: Mushy mix of salted meat, potatoes, often beets, and sometimes herring, onions, and sour cream.
Maultaschen (“mouth pockets”): Ravioli with various fillings, such as veal, cheese, and spinach.
Ratsherrentopf: Stew of roasted meat with potatoes.
Rostbrätel: Marinated and grilled pork neck.
Rouladen (or Rinderrouladen): Strip of beef rolled up with bacon, onion, and pickles, then braised.
Sauerbraten: “Sour”-marinated and roasted cut of beef (sometimes pork), typically served with red cabbage and potato dumplings.
Saure Zipfel: Bratwurst cooked in vinegar and onions.
Schäufele: Oven-roasted pork shoulder with gravy.
Schlachtplatte (or Schlachtschüssel): “Butcher’s plate”—usually blood sausage, Leberwurst, and other meat over hot sauerkraut.
Schweinebraten (or Schweinsbraten): Roasted pork with gravy.
Spargel: Big, white asparagus in season in May and June.
Speckpfannkuchen: Large, savory crêpe with bacon.
Stolzer Heinrich: Grilled sausage in beer sauce (Berlin).
Sausage (wurst) is a fast, tasty, very local staple of the Germanic diet. Most restaurants offer it (often as the cheapest thing on the menu), but it’s more commonly eaten at takeout fast-food stands (called Würstchenbude in Germany or Würstelstand in Austria). Options go far beyond the hometown hot dog. Most are pork-based. Generally, the darker the weenie, the spicier it is.
Sausages can be boiled or grilled. The generic term Bratwurst (or Rostbratwurst) simply means “grilled sausage.” Brühwurst means boiled. Kochwurst describes sausage made of precooked ingredients, then lightly steamed. While some types of wurst can be found all over, others are unique to a particular area (as noted below).
When surveying your options at a sidewalk sausage stand or butcher (Metzgerei), these terms may help:
Bockwurst: Thick pork-and-veal sausage with a mild, grassy flavor and a toothsome, smoky casing.
Bosna: Spicy sausage with onions and sometimes curry (Austrian).
Blutwurst (or Blunzen): Made from congealed blood. Variations include Schwarzwurst, Rotwurst, and Beutelwurst.
Cervelat: Smoky, mild, chewy sausage that’s butterflied at each end before grilling (mostly Swiss).
Currywurst: Grilled pork sausage (usually Bockwurst), often chopped into small pieces, with ketchup/curry sauce, served mit or ohne Darm (with or without skin; with skin tastes smokier). Though this dish originated in Berlin, it’s popular all over.
Frankfurter: A skinny, pink, boiled sausage—the ancestor of our hot dog (also called Wienerwurst, Wienerwürstchen, or simply Wiener).
Jagdwurst: Baloney-like “hunter’s sausage”—smoked pork with garlic and mustard.
Käsekrainer: Boiled, with melted cheese inside (Austrian).
Knackwurst (or Knockwurst): Short, stubby, garlicky, beef or pork sausage with a casing that “cracks” (knackt) when you bite into it.
Krakauer: Type of Polish sausage (kiełbasa).
Landjäger: Skinny, spicy, air-dried (almost withered) salami. Ahle Wurst is similar.
Leberkäse: “Liver cheese” meatloaf made of pork and beef (but, confusingly, no cheese and often no liver). Leberkäsesemmel is a meatloaf sandwich.
Leberwurst: Usually made from pig or calf livers and customarily served as a spread on open-face sandwiches, often with mustard or pickled cucumber.
Mettwurst: Made of minced pork that’s cured and smoked.
Milzwurst: Made of pig spleen (Milzstückchen).
Nürnberger: Short and spicy grilled pork sausage from Nürnberg (also available throughout Bavaria), usually eaten three or six (or more) at a time, often lined up in a bun (Drei im Weggla means “three in bun”).
Saumagen: “Sow’s stomach” stuffed with meat, vegetables, and spices.
Teewurst: Air-dried, often smoked pork sausage similar to prosciutto, traditionally spread on bread and eaten at teatime (hence the name). It can also be grilled.
Thüringer: Long, skinny, peppery, and wedged into a much shorter roll. Thüringer Rotwurst is a blood-sausage variation.
Weisswurst: Boiled white sausage (peel off the casing before you eat it), served with sweet mustard and a pretzel (traditionally from Munich but served at any Bavarian-themed restaurant). If it’s frisch (fresh), you’re supposed to “eat it before the noon bell tolls.”
Zwiebelmettwurst: Spicy, soft sausage made with raw pork and onions; usually spread on bread, it comes fein (smooth) or grob (chunky).
Accompaniments: Sauces and sides include Senf (mustard; ask for süss—sweet; or scharf—hot), ketchup, curry-ketchup, or Currysauce (a tasty curry-infused ketchup), Kraut (sauerkraut), and sometimes horseradish (called Meerrettich in the north, Kren in the south and Austria).
At sausage stands, wurst usually comes with a roll (Semmel—not your typical hot-dog bun). The sausage might be inside the roll, or it may come on a plate with the roll to the side. You might be given the choice of a slice of bread (Brot), a pretzel (Brezel), or in restaurants, potato salad.
Besides bread (Brot) and potatoes (Kartoffeln; boiled, fried, or grilled), other typical starches include:
Kartoffelsalat: Potato salad.
Knödel: Large dumplings, usually made from potatoes but also from wheat, sourdough, semolina, or even liver; baseball-size dumplings are called Klöss.
Schupfnudeln: Stubby, diamond-shaped potato noodles.
Spätzle: Little noodles made from egg dough scraped through a wide-holed sieve; often served with melted cheese and fried onions as a meal in itself called Käsespätzle.
Germans make excellent salads, and most menus feature big, varied, dinner-size salad plates. Besides grüner Salat (mostly lettuce), you’ll likely come across these options:
Bauernsalat: Greek salad, sometimes with sausage.
Bohnensalat: Bean salad.
Fleischsalat: Chopped cold cuts mixed with pickles and mayonnaise.
Gemischter Salat (or Bunter Salat): A mixed salad of lettuce, fresh and (often) pickled veggies, and a tasty dressing.
Gurkensalat: Cucumber salad—usually just cukes in vinegar.
Nudelsalat: Pasta salad.
Ochsenmaulsalat: “Ox mouth salad” with vinegar, onion, and herbs.
Oliviersalat: Russian-style salad—potatoes, eggs, vegetables, and mayonnaise.
Wurstsalat: Chopped sausage in onion and vinegar.
Pretzels (Brezeln or—in Bavaria—Brez’n), either plain or buttered, make for an inexpensive snack. The brown crust comes from dunking them in water boiled with baking soda or lye.
Brotzeit (“bread time”) is the all-purpose word for a light between-meals snack that’s served cold. Brotzeit involves cold cuts, cheeses, breads, and other cold snacks, such as salads and some sausages. Other snack items include:
Kartoffelkäse: “Potato cheese” spread made of mashed potatoes, onion, and sour cream (but no cheese).
Krautsalat: “Coleslaw,” basically cold sauerkraut.
Matjesfilet: Raw herring in yogurt.
Obatzda: Pungent Bavarian cheese spread with paprika and onions.
Schmalzbrot: Bread smeared with lard.
Schnittlauchbrot: Bread with cream cheese and diced chives.
Streichwurst: Meat spread; the most popular is Leberwurst, made from liver.
Make sure to visit a bakery (Bäckerei) or pastry shop (Konditorei) to browse the selection of fresh pastries (Feingebäck) and cakes. Pastries can include the familiar Apfelstrudel and Croissant (sometimes called Gipfel, “peak”). Pastries often have a filling; these can include jam (Marmelade or Konfitüre), apple (Apfel), cherry (Kirsche), raisins (Rosinen), nut (Nuss), almond (Mandel), poppy seeds (Mohn), or the sweet cheese curds called Quark. Here are some other sweets you might see:
Amerikaner: A flat, round donut with a thick layer of glaze frosting on top.
Berliner: A jelly-filled donut (also called Krapfen in Bavaria, or Pfannkuchen in Berlin).
Rohrnudel: Roll-like sweet dumpling with raisins.
Schnecken: “Snail”-shaped pastry roll with raisins and nuts.
Gummi Bears are local gumdrops with a cult following (look for the Haribo brand). Ice-cream stores, often run by Italian immigrants, abound. While you can always get a cone to go (ask for eine Kugel, a scoop—literally “ball”), many Germans sit down to enjoy their ice cream, ordering fancy sundaes in big glass bowls.
At restaurants, waiters aren’t exactly eager to bring you Leitungswasser (tap water), preferring that you buy Mineralwasser (mit/ohne Gas—with/without carbonation). Half-liter mineral-water bottles are available everywhere for about €1. (I refill my water bottle with tap water.)
Popular soft drinks include Apfelschorle (half apple juice, half sparkling water) and Spezi (cola and orange soda). Menus list drink sizes by the tenth of a liter, or deciliter (dl): 0.2 liters is a small glass, and 0.4 or 0.5 is a larger one. Buy juice at a grocery store in cheap liter boxes, then drink some and store the extra in your water bottle.
At stores, some bottled drinks, such as water and soft drinks, require a deposit (Pfand; usually €0.15 or €0.25—listed in small print on shelf’s price label), which is refunded if you return the bottle for recycling. You can generally return bottles to any supermarket, provided the bottle is a type they sell. Some supermarkets have vending machine-like bottle-return stations (marked Flaschenrückgabe or Flaschenannahme) that issue a coupon after you insert your bottles (redeem when you pay for your groceries). If you don’t want to bother getting your deposit back but do care about recycling, set the bottle on top of or right next to any trash can, whether on the street or in your hotel room. Chances are someone will collect it for the extra cash.
The average German drinks 40 gallons of beer a year and has a tremendous variety to choose from. Flaschenbier is bottled, and vom Fass is on tap. For tips on visiting a Biergarten, see here. Broadly speaking, most German beers fall into four main categories:
Helles Bier: Closest to American-style beer, this is the generic name for pale lager. Light-colored (but not “lite” as in low-calorie), a helles Bier is similar to a Pilsner, but with more malt. Helles Bier is usually served either in a straight glass (Stange, meaning “rod,” which its shape resembles) or a mug. Unfiltered lager (like cask ale) is Kellerbier or Zwickelbier.
Dunkles Bier: This is a general term for dark beer. Munich-style dunkles is sweet and malty, while farther north it’s drier and hoppier. Variations include Schwarzbier (a “black” lager with a chocolaty flavor), Rauchbier (with a “smoky” flavor, from Bamberg), and Weihnachsbier (or Festbier—a seasonal Christmas beer). Dunkles Bier, like helles Bier, is typically served in a straight glass or mug.
Weissbier or Weizenbier: “White” or “wheat” beer (better known in North America as “Hefeweizen”) is a yeasty, highly caloric beer. It is poured slowly to build a frothy head in a tall, rounded-top glass with a wedge of lemon. Unfiltered Weissbier, especially common in the south, is cloudy (and usually called Hefeweizen). Kristallweizen is a clear, filtered, yeast-free wheat beer. Roggenbier is darker colored and made with rye.
Pilsner (a.k.a. Pilsener or simply Pils): This is a barley-based, bottom-fermented, flavorful, hoppy, light-colored beer. Particularly common in the north, a Pilsner is usually served in a tall, slender, tapered, and sometimes stemmed glass. If it takes a while for the beer to arrive, it’s because they’re waiting for the head to die down.
Regional Specialties and Variations: Kölsch is Cologne’s mild brew, served in trays of small, straight glasses. Berliner Weisse is Berlin’s fizzy, slightly sour brew, often sweetened with a shot of syrup. The same approach helps sweeten Leipziger Gose, Leipzig’s very sour wheat beer. And Bavaria (Munich especially) has a wide array of special beers. Most famous are Bockbier, a high-alcohol, high-calorie, hoppy, bittersweet amber traditionally consumed during Lent (when monks were fasting and needed liquid nourishment); and Märzenbier, a light, malty, and highly alcoholic lager brewed in March (März) to be ready for Oktoberfest.
When ordering beer in Bavaria, the standard order is eine Mass (a whole liter, or about a quart); for something smaller, ask for eine Halbe (a half-liter, not always available). Radler (literally “bicyclist”—designed to be refreshing and not too intoxicating for a biker on a hot day) is half lager and half lemon soda. Wheat beer and lemon soda is Russ (or Russ’n). Cola-beer mixes are also common: Diesel (a.k.a. Schmutziges or Krefelder) is cola and lager, and Colaweizen is cola and wheat beer.
Nährbier (“Near Beer”) is just that—low-alcohol lager. The closest thing to our “lite” beer is leichtes Bier—a low-calorie, low-alcohol wheat beer.
Nonalcoholic Beer: While virtually all non-alcoholic brews in the US are watery, bitter lagers, Germany produces some excellent alcohol-free white/wheat beers (Weisses), which have a somewhat sweeter flavor—very smooth drinking on a hot day. Teetotalers, or anyone who wants a refreshing beer at lunch without being tipsy all afternoon, can look for “ohne Alkohol” or “alkoholfrei.” There’s also the drink called Malztrunk (or Malzbier)—the sweet, malted beverage (resembling dark beer) that children quaff before they start drinking the real thing.
Though famous for its beer, Germany also has excellent wine. The best-known white wines are from the Rhine and Mosel, and there are some good reds (usually from the south), including Dornfelder (velvety, often oaky, sometimes sweet) and Spätburgunder (or Blauburgunder; German for “pinot noir”).
You can order Wein by the glass simply by asking for ein Glas, or to clarify that you don’t want much, ein kleines Glas (about an eighth of a liter, or 4 oz). For a mini-pitcher of wine, ask for ein Viertel (quarter-liter, about two glasses’ worth). For a half-liter pitcher (about four glasses), request ein Halber. For white wine, ask for Weisswein; red wine is Rotwein. Order your wine lieblich (sweet), halbtrocken (medium), or trocken (dry).
Here are some of the white wines you may see:
Eiswein: Ultra-sweet dessert white made from frozen shriveled grapes.
Gewürztraminer: Aromatic, intense, and “spicy.”
Grauburgunder: German for “pinot gris”—a soft, full-bodied white.
Silvaner (or Grüner Silvaner): Acidic, fruity white from Franconia, comes in jug-shaped bottle.
Liebfraumilch: Semi-sweet “beloved maiden’s milk” blending Riesling with Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau.
Müller-Thurgau: Light and flowery, best when young, smooth, and semi-sweet.
Riesling: Fruity, fragrant, elegant.
Weinschorle: A spritzer of white wine pepped up with a little sparkling water.
Many hotels serve the inexpensive Sekt, or German champagne, at breakfast. Also keep an eye out for Apfelwein (“apple wine”—hard cider, especially popular in Frankfurt) and, in winter, Glühwein (hot mulled wine).
Staying connected in Europe gets easier and cheaper every year. The simplest solution is to bring your own device—mobile phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the tips below, such as connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible). Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone—either your US phone or one you buy in Europe. Or you can travel without a mobile device and use European landlines and computers to connect. Each of these options is described below, and you’ll find even more details at www.ricksteves.com/phoning.
German—like English, Dutch, Swedish, and Norwegian—is a Germanic language, making it easier on most American ears than Romance languages (such as Italian and French). These tips will help you pronounce German words: The letter w is always pronounced as “v” (e.g., the word for “wonderful” is wunderbar, pronounced VOON-der-bar). The vowel combinations ie and ei are pronounced like the name of the second letter—so ie sounds like a long e (as in hier and Bier, the German words for “here” and “beer”), while ei sounds like a long i (as in nein and Stein, the German words for “no” and “stone”). The vowel combination au is pronounced “ow” (as in Frau). The vowel combinations eu and äu are pronounced “oy” (as in neu, Deutsch, and Bräu, the words for “new,” “German,” and “brew”). To pronounce ö and ü, purse your lips when you say the vowel; the other vowel with an umlaut, ä, is pronounced the same as e in “men.” (In written German, these can be depicted as the vowel followed by an e—oe, ue, and ae, respectively.) The letter Eszett (ß) represents ss. Written German capitalizes all nouns.
Though most young or well-educated Germans—especially those in the tourist trade and in big cities—speak at least some English, you’ll get more smiles if you learn and use German pleasantries. Study the German Survival Phrases on here. Give it your best shot. The locals will appreciate your efforts.
Without an international plan, typical rates from major service providers (AT&T, Verizon, etc.) for using your device abroad are about $1.50/minute for voice calls, 50 cents to send text messages, 5 cents to receive them, and $20 to download one megabyte of data. But at these rates, costs can add up quickly. Here are some budget tips and options.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, you’re best off saving most online tasks for Wi-Fi. You can access the Internet, send texts, and even make voice calls over Wi-Fi.
Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) have hotspots for customers; look for signs offering it and ask for the Wi-Fi password when you buy something. You’ll also often find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Sign up for an international plan. Most providers offer a global calling plan that cuts the per-minute cost of phone calls and texts, and a flat-fee data plan that includes a certain amount of megabytes. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (T-Mobile’s does).
Before your trip, call your provider or check online to confirm that your phone will work in Europe, and research your provider’s international rates. A day or two before you leave, activate the plan by calling your provider or logging on to your mobile phone account. Remember to cancel your plan (if necessary) when your trip’s over.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. When you can’t find Wi-Fi, you can use your cellular network—convenient but slower and potentially expensive—to connect to the Internet, text, or make voice calls. When you’re done, avoid further charges by manually switching off “data roaming” or “cellular data” (in your device’s Settings menu; if you don’t know how to switch it off, ask your service provider or Google it). Another way to make sure you’re not accidentally using data roaming is to put your device in “airplane” or “flight” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts, as well as data), and then turn on Wi-Fi as needed.
Don’t use your cellular network for bandwidth-gobbling tasks, such as Skyping, downloading apps, and watching YouTube—save these for when you’re on Wi-Fi. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps can take lots of data, so use this sparingly.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device is constantly checking for a data connection and updating apps. It’s smart to disable these features so they’ll only update when you’re on Wi-Fi, and to change your device’s email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).
It’s also a good idea to keep track of your data usage. On your device’s menu, look for “cellular data usage” or “mobile data” and reset the counter at the start of your trip.
Use Skype or other calling/messaging apps for cheaper calls and texts. Certain apps let you make voice or video calls or send texts over the Internet for free or cheap. If you’re bringing a tablet or laptop, you can also use them for voice calls and texts. All you have to do is log on to a Wi-Fi network, then contact any of your friends or family members who are also online and signed into the same service. You can make voice and video calls using Skype, Viber, FaceTime, and Google+ Hangouts. If the connection is bad, try making an audio-only call.
You can also make voice calls from your device to telephones worldwide for just a few cents per minute using Skype, Viber, or Hangouts if you prebuy credit.
To text for free over Wi-Fi, try apps like Google+ Hangouts, What’s App, Viber, and Facebook Messenger. Apple’s iMessage connects with other Apple users, but make sure you’re on Wi-Fi to avoid data charges.
This option works well for those who want to make a lot of voice calls at cheap local rates. Either buy a phone in Europe (as little as $40 from mobile-phone shops anywhere), or bring an “unlocked” US phone (check with your carrier about unlocking it). With an unlocked phone, you can replace the original SIM card (the microchip that stores info about the phone) with one that will work with a European provider.
In Europe, buy a European SIM card. Inserted into your phone, this card gives you a European phone number—and European rates. SIM cards are sold at mobile-phone shops, department-store electronics counters, some newsstands, and even at vending machines. Costing about $5-10, they usually include about that much prepaid calling credit, with no contract and no commitment. You can still use your phone’s Wi-Fi function to get online. To get a SIM card that also includes data costs (including roaming), figure on paying $15-30 for one month of data within the country you bought it. This can be cheaper than data roaming through your home provider. To get the best rates, buy a new SIM card whenever you arrive in a new country.
I like to buy SIM cards at a mobile-phone shop where there’s a clerk to help explain the options and brands. Certain brands—including Lebara and Lycamobile, both of which operate in multiple European countries—are reliable and economical. Ask the clerk to help you insert your SIM card, set it up, and show you how to use it. In some countries—including Germany—you’ll be required to register the SIM card with your passport as an antiterrorism measure (which may mean you can’t use the phone for the first hour or two).
When you run out of credit, you can top it up at newsstands, tobacco shops, mobile-phone stores, or many other businesses (look for your SIM card’s logo in the window), or online.
It’s easy to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can check email or browse websites using public computers and Internet cafés, and make calls from your hotel room and/or public phones.
Phones in your hotel room can be inexpensive for local calls and calls made with cheap international phone cards (sold at many post offices, newsstands, street kiosks, tobacco shops, and train stations). You’ll either get a prepaid card with a toll-free number and a scratch-to-reveal PIN code, or a code printed on a receipt; to make a call, dial the toll-free number, follow the prompts, enter the code, then dial your number.
Most hotels charge a fee for placing local and “toll-free” calls, as well as long-distance or international calls—ask for the rates before you dial. Since you’re never charged for receiving calls, it’s better to have someone from the US call you in your room. Even small hotels in Germany tend to have a direct-dial system, so callers can reach you in your room without going through reception. Ask the staff for your room’s direct telephone number.
You’ll see public pay phones in post offices and train stations. The phones generally come with multilingual instructions, and most work with insertable phone cards (sold at post offices, newsstands, etc.). To use the card, take the phone off the hook, insert the card, wait for a dial tone, and dial away. With the exception of Great Britain, each European country has its own insertable phone card—so your German card won’t work in a French phone.
Avoid using an international phone card at a German pay phone—a surcharge for their use effectively eliminates any savings.
Cheap call shops, often located in train-station neighborhoods, advertise low international rates. Before making your call, be completely clear on the rates (e.g., if there’s a charge per unit, find out how long a unit is).
It’s always possible to find public computers: at your hotel (many have one in their lobby for guests to use), or at an Internet café or library (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). German keyboards are a little different from ours; to type an @ symbol, press the “Alt Gr” key and Q at the same time. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy it from a Web page and paste it into your email message.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov and search for “Know Before You Go.”
Get stamps at the neighborhood post office, newsstands within fancy hotels, and some mini-marts and card shops. Avoid standing in line at the post office by using the handy yellow stamp (Briefmarke) machines found just outside the building. Warning: These machines give change only in stamps, not in coins.
The German postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com).
If you’re debating between using public transportation, renting a car, or flying between destinations in Europe, consider these factors: Cars are best for three or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those scouring the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers, and those who don’t want to drive in Europe. Intra-European flights are an option to cover long distances, though the best deals are often at secondary airports. While a car gives you more freedom, trains, buses, and boats zip you effortlessly and scenically from city to city, usually dropping you in the center, often near a TI. Cars are an expensive headache in big cities such as Munich, Berlin, and Frankfurt.
I’ve included a sample itinerary for drivers (with tips and tweaks for those using public transportation) to help you explore Germany smoothly; you’ll find it on here.
German trains—most operated by the Deutsche Bahn (DB), Germany’s national railway—are speedy, comfortable, and non-smoking. They cover cities and small towns well, but a few out-of-the-way recommendations (such as Bavaria’s Wieskirche) are only reachable by bus. Though German trains are fairly punctual, very tight connections can be a gamble. Once the obvious choice for long-distance travel within Germany, trains are now facing competition from buses offering ultra-low fares (described later).
If you have a rail pass, you can hop on any train without much forethought (though for a small fee, you can reserve a seat on a fast train). Without a rail pass, you can save a lot of money by understanding the difference between fast trains and cheaper “regional” trains.
There are big differences in price, speed, and comfort between Germany’s three levels of trains. ICE trains (white with red trim and streamlined noses) are the fastest, zipping from city to city in air-conditioned comfort, and costing proportionately more. Mid-level IC and EC trains are white with red trim, but look older than the ICEs. The slowest are the regional trains (mostly red and labeled RB, RE, IRE, or S on schedules), but they cost much less. Milk-run S and RB trains stop at every station.
If you have a rail pass, take the fastest train available; rail-pass holders don’t pay a supplement for the fast ICE trains (with one exception, the “ICE Sprinter”). If you’re buying point-to-point tickets, taking a slower train can save a lot of money. You also save with day-pass deals valid only on slower trains.
Schedules change by season, weekday, and weekend. Verify train times listed in this book at www.bahn.com. This website also includes public transport in cities (buses, trams, and subways). The DB Navigator app is also a useful tool.
At staffed train stations, attendants will print out a step-by-step itinerary for you, free of charge. You can also produce an itinerary yourself by using the computerized trackside machines marked Fahrkarten (usually silver, red, and blue). The touch-screen display gives you an English option; choose “Timetable Information,” indicate your point of departure and destination, and then hit “Print” for a personalized schedule, including transfers and track numbers.
If you’re changing trains en route and have a tight connection, note the numbers of the platforms (Bahnsteig or Gleis) where you will arrive and depart (listed on printed and online itineraries). This will save you precious time hunting for your connecting train.
To reach Germany’s train information number from anywhere in the country, dial toll tel. 0180-699-6633 and ask for an English speaker.
The German Rail Pass is a great value if you’re making several train journeys within Germany, or even just a Frankfurt-Munich round-trip. Rail passes are a better deal if you’re under 26 (you qualify for a youth pass) or traveling with a companion (you save with the Twin pass). For only shorter hops, a rail pass probably isn’t worth it, especially if you get discounts on point-to-point tickets and day passes (explained later).
If you’re traveling in a neighboring country, two-country Eurail passes allow you to pair Germany with Austria, Switzerland, France, the Benelux region, Denmark, Poland, or the Czech Republic. The Select Pass gives you more travel in four adjacent countries (but not Poland). If you’re planning a whirlwind tour of more than four countries, another possibility is the Global Pass, covering most of Europe. These passes are available in a “saverpass” version, which gives a 15 percent discount on rail passes for two or more companions traveling together. All passes allow up to two kids (ages 4-11) to travel free with an adult.
For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail pass options for your train trip, visit the Trains & Rail Passes section of my website at www.ricksteves.com/rail. Single-country German rail passes can also be purchased at some locations in Germany, such as Frankfurt Airport.
When choosing how many travel days you need for your rail pass, note that it can be worthwhile to buy an extra day (about $15-20 per person) even to cover short trips on regional trains—for instance, from Würzburg to Rothenburg—simply for the convenience of not having to buy tickets.
Your rail pass covers certain extras, including travel on city S-Bahn systems (except in Berlin, where only S-Bahn lines between major train stations are covered), travel on German buses marked “Deutsche Bahn” or “DB” (run by the train company), and travel on international express buses operated by Deutsche Bahn (covered by either a German Rail Pass or a pass for both countries of travel). Rail passes also get you a 20 percent discount on K-D Line boats on the Rhine and Mosel Rivers and the Romantic Road bus. Flexipass holders should note that fully covered (“free”) trips start the use of a travel day, while discounted trips do not.
Because Salzburg is so close to the German border, traveling to or from the city on the main line from Munich counts as traveling within Germany, as far as your rail pass is concerned (Salzburg is the official border station on that line).
Ticket fares are shown on the map on here, and for some journeys, at www.bahn.com (though not for most trains outside of Germany). Deutsche Bahn can charge a wide variety of fares for the same journey, depending on the time of day, how far ahead you purchase the ticket, and other considerations. Know your options to get the best deal.
First Class vs. Second Class: First-class tickets usually cost 50 percent more than second-class tickets. While first-class cars are a bit more spacious and quiet than second class, the main advantage of a first-class ticket is the lower chance that the train will fill up. Riding in second class gets you there at the same time, and with the same scenery. As second-class seating is still comfortable and quiet, most of my readers find the extra cost of first class isn’t worth it—Germans themselves tell me they never ride in first class unless someone else is paying for it.
Full-Fare Tickets (Normalpreis): The most you’ll ever have to pay for a journey is the unrestricted Normalpreis. This full-fare ticket allows you to easily change your plans and switch to an earlier or later train, without paying a penalty. (If you buy a Normalpreis ticket for a slower train, though, you can’t use it on a fast one without paying extra.)
Discount Fares (Sparpreis): If you reserve a ticket on a fast train at least a day in advance and are comfortable committing to particular departure times, you can usually save 25-75 percent over the Normalpreis. But these tickets are more restrictive; you must take the train listed on the ticket or pay a €17.50 change fee. Discounted fares go on sale three months in advance and remain available until one day before departure—unless all the cheap seats are sold earlier (which often happens).
Savings on Slow Trains: You can always save money on point-to-point tickets if you’re willing to skip Germany’s high-speed trains (IC, EC, and ICE) and limit yourself to regional trains (most commonly labeled RB, RE, IRE, or S, but also a range of region-specific names). For example, Freiburg to Baden-Baden might cost €30 by ICE, €25 by EC, and €20 by RE train. The Deutsche Bahn website and ticket machines give you the option to limit your search to these slower, cheaper trains (select “only local transport”).
You may save even more with three types of extremely popular day passes valid only on slow trains: the various Länder-Tickets, the Schönes-Wochenende-Ticket, and the Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket. They are most cost-effective for groups of two to five people, but single travelers can benefit from them, too.
With a Länder-Ticket, up to five people traveling together get unlimited travel in second class on regional trains for one day for a very cheap price (generally €23-24 for the first person plus €4-5 for each additional person). There are a few restrictions: A Länder-Ticket only covers travel within a certain Land (Germany’s version of a US state, such as Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, Saxony, or Rheinland-Pfalz), doesn’t work for the fastest classes of trains (ICE, IC, EC), and doesn’t cover travel on weekdays before 9:00. Still, Länder-Tickets offer big savings, don’t require advance purchase, and are also valid on local transit. For example, a Bayern-Ticket (the Bavarian version of a Länder-Ticket) not only gets you from Munich to Füssen, but also covers the bus from Füssen to Neuschwanstein and back.
Some scenarios: From Munich to Nürnberg, ICE express trains take one hour and 10 minutes and cost €55, and RE regional trains take 35 minutes longer and cost €37. However, a Bayern-Ticket lets one person ride the RE trains in Bavaria for only €23 (and just €43 covers five adults), as long as you leave after 9:00. Plus, if you return that same day, there’s no additional cost. The Baden-Ticket offers similar deals on the run from Freiburg to Baden-Baden, and the Rhineland-Pfalz-Ticket makes sense for longer day trips around the Rhine and the Mosel (for example, from Bacharach or Trier to Burg Eltz). Sometimes several smaller Länder are covered by a single ticket. For example, the Sachsen-Ticket covers trips in Saxony (including Dresden and Leipzig) as well as the neighboring Länder of Sachsen-Anhalt (Wittenberg) and Thuringia (Erfurt and Eisenach).
The Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket works like a Länder-Ticket, but gives you the run of the whole country. It’s valid on any regional train anywhere in Germany, but doesn’t include city transit (first person-€44, each additional passenger-€8, maximum of 5 travelers, only valid weekdays after 9:00).
The Schönes-Wochenende-Ticket is a cheaper weekend version of the Quer-durchs-Land Ticket, with looser conditions: It’s valid on all regional trains on a Saturday or Sunday (starting at midnight, not 9:00), it does cover local transit in some areas (buses, trams, subways—check specifics when you buy); and additional travelers pay only €4 extra (first person-€40, maximum 5 travelers). Two people could make the four-hour trip from Frankfurt to Trier on regional trains for €52 with a Quer-durchs-Land ticket and for €44 with a Schönes-Wochenende-Ticket. This trip would otherwise cost €85 for two people. For even larger groups, these tickets save serious money.
Kids ages 6-14 travel free with a parent or grandparent, but the ticket needs to list the number of children (unless purchased from a regional-train ticket machine). Kids under age 6 don’t need tickets.
At the Station: Major German stations have a handy Reisezentrum (travel center) where you can ask questions and buy tickets (with a €2 markup for the personal service). You can also buy tickets from machines, which come in three types.
The silver, red, and blue touch-screen machines (marked with the Deutsche Bahn logo and Fahrkarten, which means “tickets”) are user-friendly. They sell both short- and long-distance train tickets, and print schedules for free. Touch the flag to switch to English (some rare screens are German-only). You can pay with bills, coins, or credit cards—but US credit cards may not work. There’s one exception: Any trip that is entirely within the bounds of a regional transport network (i.e., Frankfurt-Bacharach or Nürnberg-Rothenburg) is considered local: Tickets can only be bought on the day of travel, and you must pay cash.
Each German city and region also has its own machines that sell only same-day tickets to nearby destinations (usually including Länder-Ticket day passes). In cities, these machines also sell local public transit tickets. At some smaller, unstaffed stations, these machines are the only ticket-buying option. You’ll see the logo of the city or regional transport network on the machine. Increasingly, these machines are multilingual, with touch screens, and some even take American cards with a PIN (though others take only cash and German cards).
Some cities and regions still have older, silver ticket machines with smaller screens and plenty of buttons. To buy a train ticket from these machines, press the flag button until it gives you a screen in English. Then look for your destination on the long list of towns on the left side. If your destination isn’t on the list (because it’s too far away), you can buy the ticket on board (let the conductor know where you boarded so you won’t have to pay the small markup for buying a ticket on the train). If your destination is on the list, note its four-digit code and enter it on the number pad. The machine defaults to a one-way (Einfache) second-class ticket, but you can alter that with the buttons below the keypad (press Hin- und Rückfahrt for a round-trip ticket, and 1./2. Klasse for first class; also note the buttons for Länder-Ticket day passes and children’s tickets). Feed the machine cash (small bills are OK, but it won’t take credit cards), then collect your ticket and change. Gut gemacht! (Well done!)
On the Train: If you have enough cash, you can buy a ticket on board from the conductor for a long-distance journey by paying a small markup (US credit cards won’t work unless they have a chip). But if you’re riding a local (short distance) train, you’re expected to board with a valid ticket...or you can get fined. Note that ticket-checkers on local trains aren’t necessarily in uniform.
Online: You can buy German train tickets online and print them out yourself or (for a small fee) have them delivered by mail; visit www.bahn.com and create a login and password. If you print out your ticket, the conductor will also ask to see the ID that you specified in the booking (typically the credit card you paid with). You can also book seat reservations (optional) with a rail pass for trips within Germany—start to buy a regular ticket, then check the box for “reservation only.”
As you board or exit a train, you’ll usually have to push a button or flip a lever to open the door. Watch locals and imitate.
On the faster ICE, IC, and EC trains, it costs €4.50 extra per person to reserve a seat, which you can do at a station ticket desk, a touch-screen machine, or online (especially useful with a rail pass or a second-class ticket). If buying a first-class ticket on these trains, you can add a seat assignment for free at the time of purchase. German trains generally offer ample seating, but popular routes do fill up, especially on holiday weekends. If your itinerary is set, and you don’t mind the small fee, seat reservations can be worth it for the peace of mind. They’re especially smart for small groups and families (€9 reservation cap for families).
On ICE trains, families with small children can book special compartments called Kleinkindabteil, which have extra room for strollers and diaper changing, for the regular seat-reservation price.
Note that a few fast trains require reservations (specified in schedule), but slower regional trains don’t accept them. With rare exceptions, it doesn’t make sense to go through a US agent to make a seat reservation in advance of your trip; just do it online or at a German station.
If you have a seat reservation, while waiting for your train to arrive, note the departure time and Wagen (car) number and look along the train platform for the diagram (Wagenstandanzeiger) showing what sector of the platform the car will arrive at (usually A through F). Stand in that sector to avoid a last-minute dash to the right car or a long walk through the train to your seat. This is especially important for ICE trains, which are often divided into two unconnected parts.
If you’re traveling without a reservation and are looking for a free seat, check the displays (or, in older trains, the slips of paper) that mark reserved seats. If you have a hard time finding an unreserved seat, take a closer look at the reservations—if you find a seat that’s reserved for a leg of the journey that doesn’t overlap with yours, you’re free to take the seat. For example, if you’re traveling from Frankfurt to Würzburg on a Munich-bound train, and you find a seat reserved only from Würzburg to Munich, it’s all yours—you’ll be getting off the train as the reservation holder boards in Würzburg.
In stations without elevators, you can take advantage of the luggage belts along the stairs to each platform. They start automatically when you put your bag on the bottom or top of the belt.
Your bike can travel with you for €5 per day on regional trains or €9 per trip on fast trains. Deutsche Bahn’s helpful website even has a list of bike-rental shops that are in or near train stations. Rentals usually run about €10-15 a day, and some rental outfits offer easy “pick up here and drop off there” plans.
While most American travelers still find the train to be the better option—mainly because rail passes make German train travel affordable and no-hassle—ultra-low fare long-distance buses are worth considering. For example, a full-fare (second-class) train ticket between Munich and Nürnberg costs about €55, while a bus ticket for this route can cost €20 or less (as low as €5 if you’re willing to buy a few days ahead and aren’t picky about departure times).
While buses don’t offer as extensive a network as trains, they do cover the most popular cities for travelers (including nearly all of the destinations recommended in this book), quite often with a direct connection. The primary disadvantage to buses is a lack of travel flexibility: Buses are far less likely than trains to have a seat available for those who show up sans ticket (especially on either end of a weekend). And compared to trains, buses also offer fewer departures per day, though your options probably aren’t too shabby on major routes served by multiple operators. Trains also beat buses in travel time and convenience, although often not by much. For the Munich-Nürnberg trip described above, bus travelers will spend about an hour longer en route than they would on the train (more if stuck in traffic—though train delays can happen, too).
Bus tickets are sold on the spot (on board and/or at kiosks at some bus terminals), but because the cheapest fares often sell out, it’s best to book online as soon as you’re sure of your plans (at a minimum, book a few days ahead to nab the best prices). The main bus operators to check out are MeinFernBus (with the most extensive network, http://meinfernbus.de), FlixBus (www.flixbus.de), and Berlin Linien Bus (www.berlinlinienbus.de).
Though not as comfortable as trains, each company’s brightly-colored buses are surprisingly well-outfitted and make for a more pleasant ride than your average Greyhound trip. Most offer free Wi-Fi and on-board snack bars and WCs.
Bus terminals vary from a true depot with ticket kiosks and overhead shelter, or just a stretch of street with a cluster of bus stops. Serious bus stations are labeled across Germany as “ZOB” (for Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof—central bus station). While most cities’ bus terminals are usually a block or two from the train station, in some bigger cities (such as Munich and Berlin), bus travelers have to go a little farther afield to catch their ride.
Rental companies require you to be at least 21 years old and to have held your license for one year. Drivers under the age of 25 may incur a young-driver surcharge, and some rental companies do not rent to anyone 75 or older. If you’re considered too young or old, look into leasing (covered later), which has less-stringent age restrictions.
Research car rentals before you go. It’s cheapest to arrange most car rentals from the US. Consider several companies to compare rates.
Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. It can be cheaper to use a consolidator, such as Auto Europe/Kemwel (www.autoeurope.com) or Europe by Car (www.europebycar.com), which compares rates at several companies to get you the best deal—but because you’re working with a middleman, it’s especially important to ask in advance about add-on fees and restrictions.
Always read the fine print carefully for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.” You may need to query rental agents pointedly to find out your actual cost.
For the best deal, rent by the week with unlimited mileage. To save money on gas, you can request a diesel car. I normally rent the smallest, least-expensive model with a stick shift (generally cheaper than an automatic). Almost all rentals are manual by default, so if you need an automatic, request one in advance; be aware that these cars are usually larger models (not as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads).
Figure on paying roughly $230 for a one-week rental. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. For trips of three weeks or more, leasing can save you money on insurance and taxes. Be warned that international trips—say, picking up in Munich and dropping off in Vienna—while efficient, can be expensive (it depends partly on distance).
As a rule, always tell your car-rental company up front exactly which countries you’ll be entering. Some companies levy extra insurance fees for trips taken in certain countries with certain types of cars (such as BMWs, Mercedes, and convertibles). Double-check with your rental agent that you have all the documentation you need before you drive off (especially if you’re crossing borders into non-Schengen countries, such as Croatia, where you might need to present proof of insurance).
Picking Up Your Car: Big companies have offices in most cities; ask whether they can pick you up at your hotel. Small local rental companies can be cheaper but aren’t as flexible.
Compare pickup costs (downtown can be less expensive than the airport) and explore drop-off options. Always check the hours of the location you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime.
When selecting a location, don’t trust the agency’s description of “downtown” or “city center.” In some cases, a “downtown” branch can be on the outskirts of the city—a long, costly taxi ride from the center. Before choosing, plug the addresses into a mapping website. You may find that the “train station” location is handier. But returning a car at a big-city train station or downtown agency can be tricky; get precise details on the car drop-off location and hours, and allow ample time to find it.
When you pick up the car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Find out how your car’s lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel vs. unleaded). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you. Some drivers take pictures of the returned vehicle as proof of its condition.
When renting a car in Europe, for a digital navigator you can use the mapping app that’s already on your cellular-connected device, or download a mapping app that’s designed to be used offline. As an alternative, you could rent a GPS device (or bring your own GPS device from home).
To use your mobile device for pulling up maps or routes on the fly, for turn-by-turn directions, or for traffic updates, you’ll need to go online—so it’s smart to get an international data plan (see here). But just using GPS to locate your position on a map doesn’t require an Internet connection (and therefore doesn’t require Wi-Fi or cellular data). This means that once you have the map in your phone, you can navigate with it all day long without incurring data-roaming charges.
Using Your Device’s Mapping App: The mapping app you use at home (such as Google Maps or Apple Maps) will work just as well for navigating Europe.
The most economical approach is to download information while you’re on Wi-Fi (at your hotel, before setting out for the day). Google Maps’ “save map to use offline” feature is useful for this, allowing you to view a map when you’re offline (though you can’t search for an address or get directions). Apple Maps doesn’t offer a save-for-offline feature, though it does automatically cache (save) certain data. So if you bring up the maps you need or plan your route while on Wi-Fi in the morning, the Apple Maps app may end up caching those maps and not using data roaming much during the day.
No matter which app you use, view the maps in standard view (not satellite view) to limit data use. And consider bringing a car charger: Even offline, mapping services gobble up battery life.
Using a Third-Party Offline Mapping App: A number of well-designed apps allow you much of the convenience of online maps without any costly data demands. City Maps 2Go is popular; OffMaps and Navfree also offer good, zoomable offline maps—similar to Google Maps—for much of Europe. You need to be online to download the app, but once that’s done, the maps are accessible anywhere (note that you won’t get turn-by-turn directions, which require a data connection).
Using GPS: Some drivers prefer using a dedicated GPS unit—not only to avoid using cellular data, but because a standalone GPS can be easier to operate (important if you’re driving solo). The downside: It’s expensive—around $10-30 per day. Your car’s GPS unit may only come loaded with maps for its home country—if you need additional maps, ask. And make sure your device’s language is set to English. If you have a portable GPS device at home, you can take that instead, but you’ll need to buy and download European maps before your trip. This option is far less expensive than renting a unit.
When you rent a car, you are liable for a very high deductible, sometimes equal to the entire value of the car. Limit your financial risk with one of these three options: Buy Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company, get coverage through your credit card (free, if your card automatically includes zero-deductible coverage), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW includes a very high deductible (typically $1,000-1,500). Though each rental company has its own variation, basic CDW costs $10-30 a day (figure roughly 30 percent extra) and reduces your liability, but does not eliminate it. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, there’s a catch. You’ll technically have to decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company, which means they can place a hold on your card (which can be up to the full value of the car). In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges with your credit-card company. Before you decide on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works.
If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage is an option. For example, Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.
For more on car-rental insurance, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw.
For trips of three weeks or more, consider leasing (which automatically includes zero-deductible collision and theft insurance). By technically buying and then selling back the car, you save lots of money on tax and insurance. Leasing provides you a new car with unlimited mileage and a 24-hour emergency assistance program. You can lease for as little as 21 days to as long as five and a half months. Car leases must be arranged from the US. One of many companies offering affordable lease packages is Europe by Car (www.europebycar.com/lease).
Road Rules: Be aware of German rules of the road; for example, kids under age 12 (or less than about 5 feet tall) must ride in an appropriate child-safety seat. It’s illegal to use a mobile phone while driving—pull over or use a hands-free device. Seat belts are mandatory for all, and two beers under those belts are enough to land you in jail. You’re required to use low-beam headlights if it’s overcast, raining, or snowing. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light, unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn about your destination” box, then click on “Travel & Transportation”).
Fuel: Unleaded gasoline comes in “Super” (95 octane) and “Super Plus” (98 octane). Pumps marked “E10” or “Super E10” mean the gas contains 10 percent ethanol—make sure your rental can run on this mix. You don’t have to worry about learning the German word for diesel. Your US credit and debit cards may not work at self-service gas pumps. Pay the attendant or carry enough euros.
Navigation: Use good local maps and study them before each drive. Learn which exits you need to look out for, which major cities you’ll travel toward, where the ruined castles lurk, and so on. Every long drive between my recommended destinations is via the autobahn (super-freeway), and nearly every scenic backcountry drive is paved and comfortable. Learn the universal road signs (explained in charts in most road atlases and at service stations). To get to the center of a city, follow signs for Zentrum or Stadtmitte. Ring roads go around a city.
The Autobahn: The shortest distance between any two points is the autobahn (no speed limit in many sections, toll-free within Germany). Blue signs direct you to the autobahn. To understand this complex but super-efficient freeway, look for the Autobahn Service booklet at any autobahn rest stop (free, lists all stops, services, road symbols, and more). Learn the signs: Dreieck (“three corners”) means a Y-intersection; Autobahnkreuz is where two expressways cross. Exits are spaced about every 20 miles and often have a gas station, a restaurant, a minimarket, and sometimes a tourist information desk. Exits and intersections refer to the next major city or the nearest small town. Peruse the map and anticipate which town names to look out for. Know what you’re looking for—miss it, and you’re long autobahn-gone. When navigating, you’ll see Nord, Süd, Ost, and West. Electronic signs warning of dangerous conditions may include one of these words: Unfall (accident), Nebel (fog), or Stau (congestion).
Autobahns in Germany are famous for having no speed limit, but some sections actually do have a limit, particularly in urban areas and near complicated interchanges. Sometimes there are electronic signs with “dynamic” limits that change depending on traffic conditions. There are also cameras that take pictures of the speeder’s license plate—so obey the law or be prepared to pay. In areas without an “official” maximum speed, you will commonly see a recommended speed posted. While no one gets a ticket for ignoring this recommendation, exceeding this speed means your car insurance no longer covers you in the event of an accident.
It’s important to stay alert on the autobahn: Everything happens much more quickly, and the speed differential between lanes can be dangerous for unaccustomed drivers. Watch for potential lane changers, whether from your right or from behind—a roaring Mercedes can appear out of thin air in your rearview mirror.
Even if you’re obeying posted limits, don’t cruise in the passing lane; stay right. Since it’s illegal to pass on the right on the autobahn, drivers will angrily flash their lights, and possibly tailgate, if you drive in a passing lane. Obstructing traffic on the autobahn is against the law—so running out of gas, or even cruising in the far-left lane—is not only dangerous, it can earn you a big ticket. In fast-driving Germany, the backed-up line caused by an insensitive slow driver is called an Autoschlange, or “car snake.” What’s the difference between a car snake and a real snake? According to locals, “On a real snake, the ass is in the back.”
Umweltplakette for Driving in German Cities: To drive into specially designated “environmental zones” or “green zones” (Umweltzone) in the centers of many German cities—including Munich, Freiburg, Frankfurt, Cologne, Dresden, Leipzig, and Berlin—you are required to display an Umweltplakette sticker. These come standard with most German rental cars (ask when you pick up your car). If you’re renting a car outside of Germany and plan to enter one of these cities, be sure you have one (sold cheap—around €5 to €10—at the border and at gas stations; you’ll need the registration and legal paperwork that came with your rental; see www.umwelt-plakette.de).
Parking: To park, pick up a cardboard clock (Parkscheibe, available free at gas stations, police stations, and Tabak shops). Display your arrival time on the clock and put it on the dashboard, so parking attendants can see you’ve been there less than the posted maximum stay. Your US credit and debit cards may not work at automated parking garages—bring cash.
Driving in Austria: If you side-trip by car into Austria, bring your US driver’s license and get an International Driving Permit (for details, go to www.ricksteves.com and search for “IDP”). Austria charges drivers who use their expressways. You’ll need to have a Vignette sticker stuck to the inside of your rental car’s windshield (€8.70 for 10 days, buy at border crossing, big gas stations near borders, or a rental-car agency). Place it on your windshield exactly as shown on the back of the sticker, and keep the lower tear-off portion—it’s your receipt. Dipping into the country on regular roads—such as around Reutte in Tirol, or the less-direct route between the German border and Salzburg—requires no special payment. In Austria, green signs direct you to the autobahn, and autobahn speed limits are enforced.
The best comparison search engine for both international and intra-European flights is www.kayak.com. For inexpensive flights within Europe, try www.skyscanner.com or www.hipmunk.com; for inexpensive international flights, try www.vayama.com.
Flying to Europe: Start looking for international flights four to five months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Off-season tickets can be purchased a month or so in advance. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see my hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at www.ricksteves.com/hub-airports.
Flying within Europe: If you’re considering a train ride that’s more than five hours long, a flight may save you both time and money. When comparing your options, factor in the time it takes to get to the airport and how early you’ll need to arrive to check in.
Well-known cheapo airlines include easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). Those based in Germany are Air Berlin (www.airberlin.com), Germanwings (www.germanwings.com), and TUIfly (www.tuifly.com). But be aware of the potential drawbacks of flying with a discount airline: nonrefundable and nonchangeable tickets, minimal or nonexistent customer service, pricey and time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and stingy baggage allowances with steep overage fees. If you’re traveling with lots of luggage, a cheap flight can quickly become a bad deal. To avoid unpleasant surprises, read the small print before you book.
These days you can also fly within Europe on major airlines affordably—and without all the aggressive restrictions—for around $100 a flight.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport. It’s also important to charge your electronic devices before you board because security checks may require you to turn them on (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
Rick Steves Germany 2016 is one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country guidebooks, city and regional guidebooks, Snapshot guides (excerpted chapters from my country guides), Pocket Guides (full-color little books on big cities, including Munich and Salzburg), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. Most of my titles are available as ebooks. My phrase books—for German, French, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese—are practical and budget-oriented. My other books include Europe 101 (a crash course on art and history designed for travelers); Mediterranean Cruise Ports and Northern European Cruise Ports (how to make the most of your time in port); and Travel as a Political Act (a travelogue sprinkled with tips for bringing home a global perspective). A more complete list of my titles appears near the end of this book.
Video: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes. To watch full episodes online for free, see www.ricksteves.com/tv. Or to raise your travel I.Q. with video versions of our popular classes (including my talks on travel skills, packing smart, European art for travelers, travel as a political act, and individual talks covering most European countries), see www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
Audio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. A complete archive of 10 years of programs (over 400 in all) is available at www.ricksteves.com/radio. I’ve also produced free, self-guided audio tours for Munich, Berlin, Salzburg, Rothenburg, and sights along the Rhine River. Most of this audio content is available for free through my Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, see here.
The black-and-white maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended places and get to local TIs, where you can pick up more in-depth maps of cities or regions (usually free). Better maps are sold at newsstands and bookstores. Before you buy a map, look at it to be sure it has the level of detail you want. Map apps for your smartphone or tablet are also handy (see “Navigation Options,” earlier).
European bookstores, especially in touristy areas, have good selections of maps. For drivers, I’d recommend a 1:200,000- or 1:300,000-scale map. Train travelers usually manage fine with the freebies they get with the train pass and from the local tourist offices.