JUNE
West Nile virus (WNV) is a mosquito-borne virus that was first detected in the United States in 1999 and is now permanently established in the Western Hemisphere.
Certain species of biting midges are very troublesome for horses.
I’ve spent a number of hours on my tractor this month mowing the first crop of weeds that appeared in our pastures.
The storm surges associated with hurricanes can be devastating to horse farms, so disaster preparedness is essential.
THE MASK OF ZORRO (1998)
In a good year, the horses are now enjoying belly-deep smooth brome in some of our pastures, while I keep the broad-leaved weeds under control in others. Mowing is a satisfying Zen-like task for me. When I’m outfitted with sun-protective clothing and a Thermos of cold yerba mate, the job goes quickly. The horses sport their fly sheets and masks for protection from insects and UV rays. We partner up in the early morning or late afternoon for a ride.
The storm surges associated with hurricanes can be devastating to horse farms, so disaster preparedness is essential. See more about hurricanes in this month’s Horsekeeping Across America.
The summer solstice is an astronomical term that refers to the position of the sun in relation to the celestial equator. The summer solstice is the day of the year with the longest daylight period and hence the shortest night. This day usually occurs on June 21 or 22 in the Northern Hemisphere and on December 21 or 22 in the Southern Hemisphere.
To Do
Take stock of all hoses — check ends, fix leaks, repair, or replace
Vaccinate for West Nile virus
Work arena
Scrub feed tubs and buckets
Move hay to barns
Restock pasture kit
Mosquito control
Fence work
Conditioning
To Buy
Complete feed wafers
Grain
Hoof supplement
Dewormer
Psyllium
Paths of Atlantic Hurricanes
West Nile virus (WNV) is a mosquito-borne virus that was first detected in the United States in 1999 and is now permanently established in the Western Hemisphere. Humans and horses may be infected by the virus, which causes encephalitis (inflammation of the brain). Clinical signs of WNV in horses include ataxia (stumbling or incoordination), weakness of limbs, partial paralysis, and death.
“Old minds are like old horses; you must exercise them if you wish to keep them in working order.”
— John Adams
Most often, WNV is spread when a mosquito feeds on an infected bird and then bites a human or other animal. It is not spread through casual contact such as touching or kissing a person with the virus, and infected horses can’t spread the virus to uninfected horses or to other animals or people. Certain migrating birds (such as the corvids, which include crows, ravens, magpies, and jays) appear to play a role in spreading the disease. In the temperate zone of the world (i.e., between latitudes 23.5° and 66.5° north and south), WNV cases occur primarily in the late summer or early fall. In the southern climates where temperatures are milder, West Nile virus can be transmitted year-round.
Since many mosquitoes are most active at dusk and dawn, use insect repellent and wear long sleeves and pants, or consider staying indoors, during these hours.
When WNV became a threat to our horses, I became very concerned and took all precautions, but didn’t give as much thought to the possibility of Richard and I being at risk — that is, until some elderly people died of the disease in the nearest town. So when you are outdoors, use insect repellent containing an EPA-registered active ingredient. Since many mosquitoes are most active at dusk and dawn, use insect repellent and wear long sleeves and pants, or consider staying indoors, during these hours. Make sure you have good screens on your windows and doors to keep mosquitoes out.
Preventing West Nile
WNV prevention on farms and ranches focuses on reducing mosquito breeding sites (see this month’s Pest Patrol). Reducing the mosquito population can help prevent or eliminate the virus. Here are some additional strategies.
Try to decrease horses’ exposure to adult mosquitoes. In some high-risk situations, screened stables might be the answer, as long as no mosquitoes are inside the building.
Where risk is lower, fans can help by keeping air moving in the barn.
Turn horses out for exercise when mosquitoes don’t feed. This may mean keeping horses in the barn from dusk to dawn.
Insect repellents, fly sheets, and masks can help but are not absolute protection.
A WNV vaccine for horses became available in 2002. Ask your vet when the most strategic month for you to vaccinate is. Here, it is no earlier than June.
Laminitis is an acute inflammation of the sensitive laminae in the hoof, that can be caused by a wide variety of factors, including overeating of grain or rich pasture, trauma, and foaling complications. Severe laminitis results in misalignment of the bones within the hoof and is called founder.
Foundered horses are unlikely to ever return to their previous level of performance. That’s why it is important to prevent it with good management. Since laminitis is the second leading cause (next to colic) of equine death, prevention is essential. Monitor your horse’s weight closely, be certain he cannot get into the feed room, and carefully select and monitor the horses you turn out on pasture.
Drought-stressed, slower-growing pastures tend to concentrate their nutrients, so they often provide more sugars than fast-growing pastures. Irrigated pastures tend to be fast growing and can be more “diluted,” containing lower amounts of nutrients. Either type of pasture can cause laminitis due to carbohydrate overload — as can a binge in the grain bin. Certain plants seem to contribute more than others to laminitis, and research is underway to determine which. Some horses, due to age, breed, diet, level of exercise, and other factors are more susceptible to laminitis (see the Safergrass Web site in the appendix).
Recognizing Laminitis
Signs of laminitis, which most frequently affects the front feet, include:
Sore soles and a reluctance to walk
Sensitivity to hoof testers in the toe area
Increased digital pulse rate
Hot feet
Shifting weight or standing with front legs extended
Severe laminitis results in misalignment of the bones within the hoof and is called founder.
A foundered hoof has rings on the wall, and in severe cases the coffin bone has rotated downward.
Sand colic occurs when a horse ingests sand (or decomposed granite, dirt, or small gravel) with his feed and the sand blocks his intestines. Although most common in California, Florida, and the southwestern United States, it can occur anywhere that horses graze on sandy pastures or are fed on sandy ground.
Horses naturally rid their intestines of a certain amount of sand with the feces. However, when the amount of sand ingested is greater than the natural elimination process can handle, mechanical obstruction or inflammation of the junction of the large and small colon can occur. To help prevent sand colic, I have covered the ground of all feeding areas with rubber mats and I keep them swept clean. I let the horses in only at eating time and lock them out at other times. This makes it easier to keep their eating areas clean.
Sand colic occurs when a horse ingests sand with his feed and the sand blocks his intestines.
DOES YOUR HORSE EAT SAND? One way to find out if he does is to collect one fecal pile that has not contacted the soil. This is best accomplished from a stall with rubber mats (it’s okay if bedding is stuck to the feces, but not dirt) or when the horse is in cross-ties on mats. Place the feces in a 5-gallon pail and fill it with water. Stir with a sweat scraper until the feces has broken apart and is uniformly distributed through the water. Tip the bucket, letting the green slurry spill out. Stop when you reach the solid material toward the bottom of the bucket. Repeat the washing and dumping process until all that you have is sand at the bottom of the pail.
Another place sand blockage can occur is in the pelvic flexure.
Recognizing Sand Colic
Symptoms of chronic sand colic are usually mild: depression and slightly elevated heart and respiratory rates.
There may be diarrhea, restlessness, pawing, laying down, rolling, kicking, biting flanks or abdomen, or sweating and yawning.
The horse might assume the urination posture without urinating or might not eat, drink, or have normal bowel movements.
Acute sand colic symptoms are an intensification of the above symptoms. A veterinarian should be called in all cases of acute colic. Diagnostics include radiographs, auscultation (listening to gut sounds), and ultrasound.
If you come up with an eighth of a cup of sand or more from one bowel movement, it shows your horse is ingesting sand and able to rid his intestines of some of it. Identify areas in your feeding management that could use improvement and consider feeding psyllium.
Many veterinarians in the sandy areas of the Pacific Coast, Florida, and the Southwest prescribe periodic doses of psyllium-husk products as a preventive measure. Because psyllium hydrophilic mucilloid contains 80 percent water-soluble fiber, it has the potential to capture and move sand through a horse’s digestive system. Although there is no research to date that proves or disproves the effectiveness of psyllium in collecting and removing sand from the intestines, many veterinarians (including mine) say that besides proper management, psyllium is the only tool we have to manage sand colic.
On contact with fluids, psyllium swells and becomes a bulky, mucous mass. That’s why grain should never be wetted in an attempt to get the psyllium to “stick” to it. The result would be an ineffective gluey mass, which 99 percent of all horses would refuse anyway. The hydrophilic characteristic of psyllium is also the reason feeders require more cleaning when psyllium products are fed. The horse’s saliva starts the gel-making process and the feeders invariably get a tapioca-like coating.
PROVIDING PSYLLIUM. To prevent choke when feeding any psyllium product, be sure your horse has access to water. Horses that bolt their grain should be slowed down with large stones or wafers in the feed. Store psyllium products at a temperature below 86°F, and seal the jar or bucket tightly to prevent moisture absorption from humidity. The psyllium regimen I use is 4 ounces per day, five days in a row, once a month.
Psyllium comes in pellets, crumbles, flakes, or powder. Pellets are convenient, but some horses sort them out or refuse the entire grain ration. Powder can sift to the bottom and is often left in the feed dish. You can bind psyllium flakes or powder to the grain ration with 2 ounces of molasses or corn oil, but never use water or you’ll get a gluey mess.
Handy Oil Pump
To apply corn oil to grain so the psyllium flakes stick, set up a 40- or 50-ounce ketchup bottle with a large pump. Keep your eye on the large ketchup bottles in your grocery store. Sometimes they come with a pump taped to the side of the bottle. Other times there will be an offer for you to send a dollar for a pump to fit the bottle. It is a handy way to serve up a measure of oil without mess.
The best approach is to measure the grain or a fluffy, moist mash into a pail, add oil and other supplements, stir so they are distributed uniformly, and then add the psyllium flakes or power. Stir and feed immediately.
I suggest you buy a small amount of a psyllium product at your feed store, tack store, or through a mail order veterinary supply catalog. Try it out on your horse to be sure he will eat it before you purchase a large quantity.
I’ve been asked if you can use the human product Metamucil. You can, but it is more expensive and might not be palatable for your horse. There are a number of equine psyllium products on the market that are more cost effective. Once you find a product that works for you, you can buy it in 20- to 50-pound containers.
After a five-day regimen of feeding psyllium, be sure to scrub all grain pails and feeders.
As you’ve no doubt noticed, I tend to be cautious about allowing my horses to graze too much too early in the season. I am mainly concerned about my horses’ health; I don’t want them to colic or founder. But by being a good pasture manager, I keep the pastures healthier as well.
Grazing Guidelines
Make the best use of pasture by grazing it when it is 4–6 inches tall.
Before turning a horse out to pasture for the first time, give him a full feed of hay.
Limit grazing to one half hour per day for the first two days; then one half hour twice a day for two days; then one hour twice a day, and so on.
As soon as it is grazed down, move the horse to another pasture.
Pasture horses can quickly become overweight or founder from too much lush pasture. During certain times of year, such as spring and early summer or other times of lush growth, the high sugar content of pasture grasses is more likely to cause founder.
I have a moveable pen set up on our “front lawn” (if such a thing exists in the Colorado mountains), which is composed of eight 12-foot panels and a gate. In order to get my horses accustomed to green feed in the spring, I put them in the grazing pen for an increasingly longer time every day. I usually start them out with 10 minutes in the grazing pen, although I know that some of my horses can go longer with no problem. I increase the time by five minutes a day until by the end of two weeks, the horses can be out for an hour or more. I keep a close eye on each horse for subtle signs of intestinal discomfort or hoof tenderness, both of which can be signs of impending laminitis.
Here in the semiarid Colorado foothills, we don’t ever have really lush grass — not like we did back in Iowa, for example. So the risk for laminitis is relatively low, but I still don’t take any chances. Having seen some sad cases over the 17 years that Richard was a farrier, I urge you to be very careful with how long you let your horse be on pasture. Watch your horse’s weight carefully; an overweight horse is much more likely to founder.
A small grazing pen, made of panels or electric fencing, can be easily moved.
These burrowing, tunneling creatures can be darling to observe but very destructive when they overrun a pasture or yard. Not only do they disturb and eat the vegetation, but they also create dangerous holes, which can make an area unsafe to ride, exercise, or turn out horses.
Prairie dogs (ground squirrels) are rodents that live socially, mainly in western North America. They are 14 to 17 inches long and have a network of tunnels with a large mound opening. They live in large groups and are active during the day. Omnivorous, they eat both plants and insects. Many other animals, such as birds and snakes, use prairie dog burrows as homes.
Gophers are rodents that live solitarily and eat pasture vegetation, including some weeds. They are 6 to 10 inches long and dig their tunnels 1 to 2 feet below the surface. You usually see evidence of their location as mounded ridges of soil. This tunneling provides some aeration benefits to the soil. The surface mounds are usually spokes from the main tunnel. If you want to find the main tunnel, you’ll need to probe. Control methods include natural predators, cats and some dogs, poison, and flooding.
Moles are small, burrowing mammals with pointed snouts, rudimentary eyes, and broad feet with long, powerful claws on the front feet. Their diet consists primarily of insect larvae, worms, and beetles, so they thrive in moist, fertile soil. They are 6 to 8 inches long. Having a few moles around is not a problem at all, but if you happen to have ideal conditions, they could become a nuisance. Traps seem to work best for decreasing the mole population.
Prairie dog holes can ruin a pasture and create a safety hazard for you and your horses.
Artificial Nectar for Hummingbird Feeders
4 cups water
1 cup white table sugar (sucrose)
Heat water to boiling. Let cool somewhat. Add sugar and stir to dissolve. Let cool completely to room temperature. Fill hummingbird feeder. Store the rest in the refrigerator.
Every time you fill the feeder, flush it with hot water, no soap. Never add red food coloring to artificial nectar. It is not necessary and could do the hummers harm.
Those darling little spotted Bambis start appearing in June, although most were born in May. See October Wild Life for more on deer.
Broadtail hummers have been buzzing our house begging for nectar water. By the end of the month, the bossy, noisy, but spectacularly showy rufous hummingbirds arrive.
When hummingbirds arrive, treat them like the royalty they are.
GNATS AND MIDGES
Will the real culprit please fly away! Horse owners often incorrectly refer to biting midges as gnats. Biting midges (Ceratopogonidae) are tiny, about 2 to 3 millimeters long. They are also sometimes referred to as no-see-ums, punkies, or sand flies (a misnomer). True gnats generally don’t bite humans, but just swarm in bothersome clouds.
Certain species of biting midges are very troublesome for horses and can be for people, too. These small, blood-feeding flies feed around the face, particularly the eyes. Although they have sponging mouthparts, these are spiny sponges that abrade membranes, sometimes leading to disease transmission and infection.
Biting midges cause the skin condition sweet itch, in which affected horses have an allergic reaction to the bites. Horses housed or pastured side by side may have varying reactions: Some will show little, if any reaction. Others will be possessed, constantly rubbing and biting to relieve the itch, and end up with bald patches or open, weeping sores. Biting midges generally thrive near marshy or swampy areas, but springs, creeks, and ponds can be a source as well. It is nearly impossible to eliminate midges, so it is best to try to protect horses from bites using repellents. An allergy treatment is available from your veterinarian.
Controlling Rodents
Rodents are a part of the ecosystem, but when their natural predators (bobcats, coyotes, owls, hawks, eagles, snakes, dogs, and cats) are few and far between, rodents procreate exuberantly and take over.
Encourage natural predators by providing habitat for them, and keep farm cats to help control the rodent population. Cats are often a better option than trapping or shooting. (Contact the Department of Wildlife for the legalities of rodent control.)
Midges may be tiny, but a swarm of them can bring big misery to your horse.
To eliminate or reduce mosquito breeding areas, you can:
Throw out old tires that tend to collect rainwater and make ideal mosquito breeding conditions.
Old tires collect rainwater. Discard them.
Discard or empty tin cans, buckets, drums, bottles, old tires, wheelbarrows, or any vessel that can hold water.
Fill in or drain any low spots that turn into puddles.
Regularly check drains, ditches, and culverts to ensure they are clean of weeds and trash, so water will drain properly.
Repair leaky pipes and outdoor faucets.
Manage swimming pools or wading pools responsibly; turn plastic wading pools over when they are not in use.
Aerate ornamental pools or stock them with fish. Clean and apply chlorine to swimming pools that are not in use. (Mosquitoes can breed in water collecting on pool covers.)
Keep grass mowed and shrubbery trimmed around the barn and house, so adult mosquitoes will not find refuge there.
Keep grass and shrubs clipped.
Change water in birdbaths regularly so it doesn’t become stagnant, and empty plant-pot drip trays at least once a week.
Keep gutters clean and free of debris and leaves so they drain completely.
Flush fresh water through any barn drains at least weekly.
Clean out and refill watering troughs at least once a week.
Contact your local extension agent for other suggestions suitable to your particular location.
Don’t let the water trough overflow and create a muddy mess.
Keep birdbath water fresh.
Clean gutters so they drain properly.
The most important step property owners can take is to remove all potential sources of stagnant water in which mosquitoes might breed.
Birds and rodents are reservoirs for West Nile virus (WNV), western equine encephalomyelitis (WEE), eastern equine encephalomyelitis (EEE), and Venezuelan equine encephalomyelitis (VEE), and mosquitoes can transmit these diseases to horses. Fortunately, there are vaccinations against these diseases; however, sanitation is key to prevention.
Many of the good sanitation practices that reduce fly populations will also discourage mosquito breeding. But there are other specific practices that can significantly decrease mosquito breeding grounds. The most important step property owners can take is to remove all potential sources of stagnant water in which mosquitoes might breed. Mosquitoes can breed in any puddle that lasts more than four days.
I’ve spent a number of hours on my tractor this month mowing the first crop of weeds that appeared in our pastures. With a wet spring, everything grows well, including weeds that have been dormant, not only from the last year, but sometimes for years. Weeds are opportunistic. They can lay low and become a real problem when conditions are ripe.
Our usual toxic culprits — wooly loco, larkspur, and lupine — are well under control. When we purchased this property 20 years ago, it was basically a weed and cactus patch with an occasional blade of grass here and there. With judicious spraying and mowing, along with reseeding and some luck, we have improved the pastures. This time of year, I am ever-vigilant for new patches of weeds.
thistle
wooly loco
Good fencing is necessary for many practical, safety, legal, and aesthetic reasons:
Fences keep horses separated and in a particular place, away from the residence, lawns, crops, vehicles, buildings, and roads.
Fences maintain boundaries and property lines, and thus promote good relationships between neighbors.
Fences decrease liability because they lessen the chance of a horse doing damage to others’ property, decrease the chance of a horse getting on the road and causing an accident, and keep people (especially children) and animals (especially dogs and other horses) off the property.
And, finally, attractive fencing can visually set off acreage and add to the value of the property.
In addition to the poisonous plants, I try to stay informed of any plants that might cause my horses to be photosensitive or get a skin irritation. This task is greatly helped by local experts and reference books. (See Recommended Reading.)
High Mowing
Just as with overgrazing, it weakens pasture grasses to mow them too short, because it results in shallow roots. Weeds are likely to take over more easily. Leave all grasses at least 3 to 4 inches tall. Your goal is to lop off the tops of broad-leaved weeds. When in doubt, mow higher rather than lower.
This is a good time to mow because the taller, broad-leafed weeds are taller than the grass. I can set my mower high and lop the tops off the weeds, leaving the precious grass to flourish. That is enough to stop certain weeds in our climate for the summer. Those that regrow will be mowed again later in the summer.
Good fencing is designed to keep horses from getting hurt, whether the horses are turned out or being trained. Besides being safe, good horse fencing is sturdy, low maintenance, highly visible, attractive, and affordable.
Barbed Wire
Barbed wire is not a suitable horse fence because the sharp points, coupled with a horse’s natural propensity to fight when tangled and flee when frightened, can lead to horrible injuries. Do not use barbed wire for horse fences.
When choosing fencing, make sure it fits your situation and budget. Probably, no one type of fencing will be suitable for all of your needs. You might choose different fencing for your pens, paddocks, runs, pastures, round pen, and arena, ending up with five or more types of fencing on your farm or ranch.
PLANNING. To make a fence plan for your acreage, draw a scale map of your land on graph paper. Design a complete perimeter fence with entrance gates that can easily be closed and locked, so that loose horses are kept off your property and your horses are kept on your property. Draw on the map all permanent structures and objects, including such things as trees, water, large rocks, and buildings. Draw current and proposed traffic patterns. Locate places where gateways would be convenient, and decide if they should be man gates, horse gates, or equipment gates. Then draw in fence lines on your map, including cross fencing that you may plan for the future.
When laying out fence lines, avoid acute angles where a horse can become cornered by other members of the herd, even if only in play.
TRY IT OUT. Once you have your fence map drawn, use rocks, boards, or stakes and flags as markers to translate the proposed plan from paper to the land itself. Make adjustments. When you have found a layout that will work, mark your postholes (marking paint works well for this). Finally, calculate the number of feet and amount of materials necessary: corner posts, brace materials, line posts, gates, fencing material (such as planks, rails, or rolls of wire), and miscellaneous supplies such as bracing wire, insulators, and electric wire.
TIPS & TECHNIQUES
Fence Footage
How much fence will you need to enclose a particular parcel of land?
20 acres require 1½ miles of fence, or 3,960 feet
10 acres require 2,640 feet
5 acres require 1,980 feet
2½ acres require 1,320 feet
1½ acres require 990 feet
Fencing is typically sold in 20- or 80-rod rolls (10 rods = 165 feet) and 100-foot rolls.
FENCE HEIGHT. When horses are running, whether from fright or exuberance, they can go through or over fences. Four and a half feet is the absolute minimum fence height that you should consider to discourage horses from jumping. Aim for a finished fence height of 5 to 6 feet, especially for stallions, larger breeds, or those specifically bred and trained for jumping. For smaller horses and ponies, a fence that is just a bit higher than the withers is usually safe. Fence height refers to the height of the top strand or board and includes the height of all horizontal elements of the fence including gates.
NO WAY!
Historical Horsekeeping
“For a severe case [of founder] draw about one gallon of blood from the neck, then drench with linseed oil, one quart; rub the forelegs with water as hot as can be borne without scalding, continue the washing till the horse is perfectly limber.”
— A New System of Horse Training or Horse Education, as taught by Prof. H. D. Brush, Fingal, Ontario, 1902
As you’ve noticed through the months, we’ve devised a manure-handling system that we highly recommend: multiple piles. There are several reasons this system works. If you try to do all of your composting in one manure pile, it might be difficult. The pile might get too large and not fully decompose. You might find that the inside is still raw manure or dry fecal balls if you live in an arid or semiarid climate. It is best to have multiple piles and care for them. That way, you can tend to each pile’s needs specifically, adding moisture, turning, letting rest, or spreading.
We like to use “manure forts,” which are dugouts in the hill below our barn. The earthen cave is lined with railroad ties to keep the soil walls from collapsing inward. It is easy to dump a cart over the edge of the manure fort.
“I must not forget to thank the difficult horses who made my life miserable, but who were better teachers than the well-behaved school horses who raised no problems.”
— Alois Podhajsky, director of the Spanish Riding School, 1939
During the summer, for horses on pasture, I groom on the go. Even with a gentle and well-trained horse, a halter and lead come in handy if I need to stabilize her while removing a branch that has become entangled in her tail. I’ve taught my horses to come to a certain spot when I whistle or call. Just as they arrive, I drop a few feed wafers on the ground in several spots. As the horses nibble, I give them a thorough visual exam (see Summer Seasonal Opener).
TIPS & TECHNIQUES
Pasture Kit
Put together a pasture kit for daily checks so you can tend to little things before they become big problems. Here is what is in my kit:
Halter and lead rope
Fly spray, cream, and wipes
Gloves
Mane detangler
Treats or carrots
Wound ointment
Zinc oxide
Extra fly mask
Extra leg strap for sheet or blanket
Besides the visual exam I give all horses, I do the following with pasture horses:
• I look for discharge from the eyes; head shaking or ears held at an odd angle; and all signs of fly problems.
• I remove any burrs or sticks in the mane or tail and look for any damage from mutual grooming to the mane or sheet.
• I make sure all blanket and leg straps are fastened. I take care of most things right out on pasture.
• For anything that requires closer attention, I halter the horse and lead him back to the barn.
Every day if a horse is wearing a sheet and at least once a week if he is not, I halter each pasture horse and give him a thorough hands-on check. Here’s what I do weekly:
• I remove the blanket and mask and look for any obvious problems such as wounds, scabs from fly bites, blanket or mask rub marks, sores, or lumps, which could indicate an abscess.
• I run my hands from throatlatch to shoulder down both sides of the horse’s neck, paying special attention to the crest of the mane, where there might be signs of rubbing, and under the mane, where there might be skin problems or ticks.
• I do the same for the horse’s entire body, paying special attention to the junction of the neck and chest and in front of the sheath or udder, two places where flies love to feast.
• I keep an eye out for rough bumps under the coat, which could indicate rain rot.
• I examine the inside of the hind legs to see if there have been any abrasions from leg straps.
Blanket Donuts
Many blankets have surcingle-style buckles on belly bands and leg straps. These buckles fit together with a lot of play in them, so when a horse lies down or rolls, they often come unfastened. The dangling straps can be stepped on, causing the blanket to shift terribly or be torn. To keep buckles buckled, I use blanket donuts. I borrow blanket donuts from another farm use — they are actually tail docking or castrating bands. These green rubber “donuts” come in packages of 100 for about two bucks. They are made of natural latex rubber, so if they are stored on a sunny windowsill, they will dry and crack quickly. Instead, store your stash in a tight container in a dark, cool place to preserve their elasticity. At about 3/16-inch thick, they are the perfect size to slip over the tongue of the surcingle buckle to take up the slack and keep them fastened, yet the buckles are still easy to operate. They are super cheap insurance to prevent ruined blankets.
• I examine by palpation and visual exam every inch of the legs and hooves, making note of any nicks or bumps, roughness under the hair of the legs that could indicate rain rot, scabs at the back of the pastern that could be scratches, loose shoes, hoof chips or cracks, or sticks or stones stuck in the frog.
• I give the tail a once-over, removing any embedded burrs or branches.
• I check the tailhead, another favorite site for ticks.
• I apply a detangler, sunscreen spray, or leave-in conditioner to the tail as needed.
Weekly Head Check
When I examine each horse I finish off with the head, running my fingers inside the ears and noting if he is sensitive or if there are scabs or red spots inside from gnats.
I look carefully around the eyes for small dings or rub marks from the fly mask.
I make sure the eyes and nostrils are clear.
I run my hand between the lower jawbones and over the fleshy portion of the throat-latch, two more favorite places for fly feasting.
Finally, I open the horse’s mouth, looking for any evidence of barbed plant awns or sticks lodged in the horse’s gums or lips.
If a horse seems out of sorts, I check his vital signs and take appropriate action.
TACK ROOM 
Part of being a horseman is knowing how to tie knots. In this knot roundup, I’ve included four knots you should master: the quick release knot, the bowline, the half hitch, and the sheet bend.
QUICK-RELEASE KNOT. As the name implies, this knot can be released quickly with a pull on the tail of the rope. It is used to tie a horse to a hitch rail or post, or to a horse trailer. You can also use it to tie individual reins to a surcingle or to rigging rings on a Western saddle. Also called a manger knot, it was the knot used to tie horses at their mangers when horses were kept in tie stalls. With practice, you can tie the quick release knot without hesitation and keep your fingers out of the loops while tying.
1 Run the tail of the rope (called the free end) over the rail or through the tie ring. Hold the standing end (the portion attached to the horse) and the free end together in your left hand.
2 With your right hand, pick up a portion of the free end of the rope and make a fold (bight) in it. Cross the fold over the two ropes you are holding in your left hand and through the loop that has formed. (Take care not to let your fingers get inside any of the loops, because if your horse were to pull at this point, your fingers could get trapped in the loops.)
3 Grab the bight and pull it through the loop. Pull until the U-shaped bight is about 6 inches long and the knot is snug.
4 Grasp the standing portion of the lead rope with your left hand and the knot with your right hand. As you pull with your left hand, slide the knot up to the ring or the rail with your right hand.
5 To release, just pull the free end. If your horse has learned how to nibble the quick-release knot and free himself, you will have to “horseproof” the knot by dropping the tail of the rope through the loop. In order to release a horseproof knot, you must first remove the tail from the loop.
This is a non-tightening knot that is safe to use as a neck rope or in restraint.
The rabbit runs out of the hole, around the tree, and back into the hole.
Half Hitch
Not actually a knot, the half hitch is made by looping a rope or strap around an object and then back around itself. Useful to fasten a pair of reins over a Western saddle horn; to fasten the leading end of a mecate to a Western saddle horn; and to secure a quick-release knot.
Sheet Bend
The sheet bend is used to fasten a rope halter or a fiador (rope throatlatch on a bosal) onto a horse.
When the weather is hot and the flies are unusually pesky during the summer months, use a fly sheet to give your horses relief. A fly sheet repels flies and provides UV protection. It must be comfortable for the horse and sturdy enough to withstand normal horse activities. Thin fly sheets, called scrims, are used on stabled horses; tougher PVC-coated mesh sheets are used as turnout sheets.
Show me Your horse and I will tell you what you are.
— Old English saying
A fly sheet must be cool, because a sweaty horse would only attract more flies. It must be made of fabric that is tough enough to withstand the occasional bite at the side or chest made by a horse’s reflex action to chase a pesky fly. It must have safe, functional leg straps, because a horse stomps and rolls in fly season. The sheet must be held in place, but the legs straps should be elastic so they have give.
A fly sheet can eliminate stomping and swishing and bring your horse peace.
Your farm truck’s vehicle insurance is important. Do not let it lapse. Talk to your agent to determine how much coverage you need for your horse trailer. Your tractor should be covered by your homeowner’s or farm or ranch business policy from loss by fire or theft. Be sure you have factored your vehicles into the building contents totals if necessary.
Summer is a good time to have any necessary surveys done. Property lines are important, as they determine where fences, buildings, and other facilities can be placed. Your building and zoning commission dictates where you can locate buildings in relation to boundaries, street rights-of-way, and your home.
RPMs & PTOs
Truck Inspection
Every time you use your rig, you should follow an inspection routine. June happens to be the month my truck and trailer license tags are renewed, so here’s my list.
Tire pressure
Wheel lugs
Hitch
Running lights, turn signals, and brake lights
Trailer brakes
Emergency trailer breakaway system
Oil
Power steering fluid
Transmission fluid
Brake fluid
Coolant in both radiator and recovery reservoir
Windshield washer fluid
Wiper blades
Air filter (especially if you drive in dusty conditions)
Battery terminals clean of corrosion
Fill tanks with gas either beforehand or at your earliest convenience
FENCING. Boundary fencing is also important. Usually a state statute covers fence laws. Often, state laws say that a person has the duty to fence animals in and his neighbors do not have the responsibility to fence them out. In contrast, some open-range states, like Colorado, require landowners to fence out free-roaming livestock.
If you share a division fence with a neighbor and the fence is put on the property boundary, state law will usually dictate whether you share the cost of installation. Adjoining owners usually cannot legally force one another to erect a fence of a particular height or materials. Once a boundary fence is built, depending on your laws, you might be required to maintain the half of the fence to your right as you stand on your property at the midpoint of the fence facing the division line, and your neighbor would be required to maintain the half of the fence to his right. If you can’t come to an agreement with a neighbor on the type of fence or cost sharing, set the fence 2 to 6 inches inside the property line, so it becomes your fence and your responsibility. Note, however, that once so placed, in many states, over time the fence becomes the boundary between the properties. Although we all hope that good fences make good neighbors, it is always a good idea to have any fence agreements with your neighbors in writing.
RPMs & PTOs
Trailer Inspection
Hitch
Lights and wiring
Floor
Emergency breakaway brake
Tires
Doors
Frame
Body, waxing or acid wash
Suspension
Latches and fasteners
Trim
Tire pressure
Wheel lugs
Bearings (checked in April)
Brakes (checked in April)
No matter who does the work on your land, buildings, or fences, it is ultimately your responsibility to comply with all legal codes and regulations. Check the local zoning regulations. These restrictions are designed to control the growth and development of communities by establishing particular areas for certain uses such as residential, commercial, industrial, and agricultural. These laws define the type of building you can construct and the type of activity that can take place on your land. Zoning laws may also dictate building height and size, property size, legal distance from road or neighbors, and appearance of facilities. You may need to get approval from the zoning committee for your plans.
I let my neighbor know beyond the hill; And on a day we meet to walk the line And set the wall between us once again. He only says, “Good fences make good neighbors.”
— Robert Frost, “Mending Wall”
Your Boundary Fence
A property boundary line should be determined exactly by an official survey. Check your local and state fence laws to determine whether your perimeter fence should be set on the property line, and whether the installation and maintenance costs should be shared by you and your neighbors, OR whether your fence should be set inside the property line on your land and paid for and maintained entirely by you. This is an important distinction that should be decided before you dig your first posthole. Errors can be costly and disputes can get ugly.
Be sure a horse is well groomed before saddling. Check the horse, the saddle, and the blanket for foreign objects, such as burrs, hay, or dirt. Place the blanket in front of the withers and slide it back into position. If you put it on and slide it forward into position, you will ruffle the horse’s hair and make him uncomfortable.
Place the saddle on the blanket. Peak the blanket up in the gullet of the saddle so the blanket won’t put pressure on the horse’s withers. Buckle the girth.
With an English saddle, attach the breast collar and accessories to the girth before buckling the girth. Reverse the order when unsaddling.
With a Western saddle, fasten the front cinch first, then the back cinch, then the breast collar and accessories. Reverse the order when unsaddling. If a horse were to spook with just a rear cinch fastened, the saddle could slip under his belly and cause him to buck, resulting in possible injury to himself and damage to the saddle. Buckle the rear cinch so that it is snug but not tight. Tighten all cinches and girths gradually.
Check saddle tightness several times before mounting and again after riding a short while.
No matter who does the work on your land, buildings, or fences, it is ultimately your responsibility to comply with all legal codes and regulations. Check the local zoning regulations.
If your horse has been out of work for a while, gradually reintroduce the pressure of a cinch or girth.
Avoid the Alkaline
A horse’s skin is slightly acidic (pH 4.5 to 6.0), so using an alkaline shampoo can strip his skin of natural oils, cause it to dry out and become itchy, and leave an open invitation for bacteria and parasites.
To prevent these problems, never use an alkaline soap or shampoo. Most human shampoos and all human soaps and detergents are alkaline. Use a very mild, specially designed horse shampoo in a very dilute solution. Then give your horse a vinegar rinse (see box opposite).
A horse not only needs to be trained, but also conditioned. A physically fit horse feels better and performs better. Conditioned horses are more durable and useful and have less chance of injury and setback. Horses generally require less work, relatively speaking, than humans do to get fit, and once fit, they can maintain that particular fitness level with little work. But no matter what type of program is followed, a horse should have a minimum of three to a maximum of six scheduled work days per week, with free or light exercise on the other days. Knowledge of some conditioning concepts can help you keep your horse in shape.
WARM-UP AND COOL-DOWN. Each training session should begin with a warm-up period: a vigorous grooming, hand-walking, and longeing or riding on a loose rein. A warm-up dissipates the fluids in the legs and lungs, which have pooled during inactivity; it opens capillaries, lubricates joints, relaxes the horse, and sharpens the responses of the neuromuscular reflexes. After a work session, a cool-down period allows the muscles to expel lactic acid and heat. Light trotting on completion of strenuous exercise is a necessary part of a cool-down, and should be followed by walking and grooming.
BODY SYSTEMS. A horse should be relatively fit before you start him on a conditioning program — that is, not fat, underweight, parasite-ridden, or ill. Hooves and legs must be in a sound and healthy state so the horse is mechanically capable of complying with the conditioning program. Although a conditioning program affects the whole horse, certain body systems respond more quickly to exercise than others. And every horse has a system or a portion of a system that may be a little more delicate or slower to respond than the other systems. The time schedule of the entire conditioning program must be planned with a horse’s weak link in mind. The metabolic system is comprised of the heart, blood vessels, muscles, digestive tract, respiratory tract, and the skin and sweating mechanism. A horse’s performance is a series of contractions and relaxations of muscle cells. These cells must be properly nourished and detoxified. It is the combined efforts of the components of the horse’s metabolic systems that accomplish this vital task.
Ranch Recipes 
Vinegar Rinse
I call this the “Pickle Bath” because my wash rack and my horses smell like a pickle for a few minutes. Using an empty 128-ounce ketchup bottle, put in ¼ cup apple cider vinegar and fill it with water. Then gently invert the bottle and squirt the solution on your bathed and rinsed horse, especially on the itchy areas.
The heart is the first to show great improvement after the first few months of exercise. The balance of the horse’s metabolism may take up to a year or more to adapt to its new demands. During the early months of a properly designed conditioning program, the cardiac output increases, which in turn increases the number of circulating red blood cells. At the same time, since the horse’s heart doesn’t need to work as hard but accomplishes more, the resting pulse rate decreases.
After several months of exercise, the horse’s muscle chemistry becomes more efficient. There is an increase in the number of capillaries in both the skeletal muscles and the heart, which allows more nutrients and oxygen to be distributed during work. Muscles become more tolerant of lactic acid buildup and more efficient at detoxification. Heat is dispersed more quickly.
A horse should be relatively fit before you start him on a conditioning program — that is, not fat, underweight, parasite-ridden, or ill.
SHOWING IMPROVEMENT. Based on average hoof growth rate of a quarter inch per month, it takes up to one year or more for the hooves to show their response to new exercise demands. The skeletal system, bones, joints, tendons, and ligaments require two to three years to fully adapt to the demands of a new sport.
Progressive conditioning can increase the ability of bones and joints to withstand loading and the torque associated with turning. Joints become more prominent with thicker articular cartilage and broader joint surfaces. Bones can become denser. The bones of younger horses are more responsive to remodeling, but are also weaker and more easily damaged. As bones become stronger with age, they lose some of their flexibility as well as their remodeling capacities. With progressive exercise, tendons and ligaments become stronger and more resilient, able to accept a greater load and recover faster from the elastic deformity which accompanies hard work.
“It was a great treat to us to be turned out into the home paddock or the old orchard; the grass was so cool and soft to our feet, the air so sweet, and the freedom to do as we liked was so pleasant; to gallop, to lie down, and roll over on our backs, or to nibble the sweet grass.
— Black Beauty, by Anna Sewell
The last system to become finely honed to the demands of a sport is the nervous system. It can take as many as five or more years to develop the finesse and control needed to become a top-notch reining horse or dressage horse.
CONDITIONING PHASES. Conditioning programs are usually comprised of three phases: long, slow distance work, strenuous work, and maximal work.
Long, slow distance work is steady, aerobic training of a relatively long duration but below the horse’s maximum speed. It results in lean, supple muscle mass and is designed to develop the long-distance trail horse and to provide a base for the future work of any horse.
Strenuous work is an anaerobic demand of high resistance in proportion to effort. It can be in the form of interval training, sprints, or repetitions. Interval training consists of controlled speed works of precise distances followed by partial recovery of the heart rate. Sprints are short, all-out bursts followed by full recovery. Repetitions are controlled speed works followed by full recovery. Strenuous work results in an increase in muscle bulk, strength, stamina, agility, range of motion, and brilliance. Such exercise is essential for the event horse and the all-around performance horse.
Maximal work is performed at the horse’s highest level of exertion. It is anaerobic and is designed to develop speed and quickness. Maximal work results in an increase of fast-twitch fibers and is appropriate conditioning for events requiring explosive work, such as calf roping, reining, and sprinting.
Horse Sense and Safety
Working Around a Horse
Learn simple means of control from a knowledgeable horse-person, and use them to control your horse when he becomes frightened or unruly.
Be calm and keep your balance.
Be very careful not to drop tools or tack underfoot. If you do drop something, nudge it into a safer area with your foot and then pick it up.
CHANGING WORK LEVEL. During all three phases of conditioning, you can change certain parameters to increase or decrease the work:
• The intensity, or speed, of a workout: for example, the walk (4 miles per hour) versus the lope (12 miles per hour)
• The duration of each episode in the session: for example, walking interspersed with three 2-minute trots, versus three 10-minute trots
• The frequency of episodes during a session: for example, walking with one 10-minute lope versus ten 1-minute lopes
• The activity immediately preceding a strenuous episode: for example, breaking to a gallop from a standstill versus galloping from a trot after a long warm-up
• The changes in speed or direction: for example, galloping down a straight road versus galloping over a cross country course
• The weight the horse is carrying.
WEATHER AND TERRAIN. Various environmental factors also dictate the conditioning effect of a workout, namely weather and terrain. Heat and humidity can combine to make it tough for a horse’s cooling system to operate effectively enough to allow him to continue working. A combined temperature and humidity value of more than 140 may make even a fit horse sweat a lot and have difficulty self-cooling.
Is Your Terrain Too Challenging?
Some terrain can present dangerous situations, even for the fit horse. Any increase in incline represents more work, but steepness over 15 percent is considered strenuous. Traversing deep footing, such as sand, requires harder work than shallow footing such as sod. The hardness of footing, such as pasture versus blacktop, may not affect workload but can create excessive concussion for the legs and hooves. Icy or muddy footing can result in strains and sprains and may require much more muscular exertion to negotiate than dry ground. Irregular footing, such as that found on a cross-country course, make a horse work harder than does the even surface of an arena.
If the combined temperature and humidity value is higher than 150, especially if the humidity contributes half of the sum, sweating may not be effective and the horse may require cooling from external sources, such as cool water on the head, jugular furrows, and the large vessels of the legs and abdomen. Working a horse in a heat/humidity combination higher than 180 can be very dangerous.
MONITORING THE HORSE. Stress is a demand for adaptation. Failure can occur if a horse is asked to exert beyond his capacity. Therefore, it is important to closely monitor horses before, during, and after workouts. Before a conditioning program even begins, evaluate each horse thoroughly and record individual normal values for the following stress monitoring tests:
• Vital signs (see January Vet Clinic). Overall appearance and muscle tone.
• Sweat. As a horse becomes more fit, the sweat changes from a sticky, smelly paste to a thin, watery, odorless liquid.
• Joint fillings and heat. Palpate the joints for amount of fluid and accompanying heat. Compare with the horse’s normal condition from before work and several hours after work.
EXERCISE OPTIONS. Not all types of exercise fulfill the requirements of a conditioning program. Vary a horse’s exercise for the best results. Free exercise is natural and unconstrained and the least labor-intensive, but carries the risk of injury due to unregulated, overexuberant bursts. On the other hand, some horses spend most of their turnout time eating rather than exercising if the turnout area is a pasture.
flehmen. A behavioral response in reaction to a smell or taste; the horse raises the head and curls back the upper lip.
Riding is an ideal way to exercise a horse and can include arena, cross-country, trail, and road riding.
Electric horse walkers are convenient and good for a short warm-up or cool-down, but lengthy sessions can create an attitude of disinterest and boredom. Thirty minutes of walking once or twice a week might be a good alternative if the horse would otherwise stand in the stall.
Hand-walking is labor-intensive but is a controlled warm-up, especially good for a young horse before turnout, longeing, or other work.
Longeing can provide exercise at all gaits, but can inflict damaging effects of torque if the horse is worked in a circle less than 60 feet in diameter.
A treadmill increases slow-twitch muscle mass and definition, but does not prepare a horse for strenuous or speed work. The horse must be gradually conditioned to a treadmill. The slope of the treadmill increases the work effort, and the workout is accomplished in about half the time as most other forms of exercise. A horse’s hooves must be in balance for treadmill work — long toes would be devastating to the tendons.
Swimming loosens muscles, develops slow-twitch fibers, and minimizes the strain on legs and joints, but is counterproductive for tightening muscles and ineffective for developing speed.
Ponying (leading one horse while riding another) may require a bit more preparation, but is extremely valuable for the mental experience and physical development of a young horse. Ponying is a very good way to teach manners and provide exercise for a young horse. The pony horse must be calm and responsive to the rider and assertive toward the yearling without being aggressive. Although the horse being ponied may try to bite, rear, kick, or balk, the pony horse should just keep moving forward and not attempt to discipline. The best gait for pony work is the long trot.
THE MASK OF ZORRO (1998)
With Antonio Banderas … were there horses in this movie?! Oh. Yes, the black Andalusian Tornado and others. I particularly enjoyed the great tack and turnout and the fantastic stunt riding, including a great bit of Roman riding. There are more adventures in the 2005 sequel Legend of Zorro.
An energetic trot is one of the best forms of exercise for your horse.
PROVIDE VARIETY. An arena represents a controlled, regulated environment and can be very effective for skill development in the strenuous work phase, but can also breed boredom in horse and rider and result in a horse becoming a lazy mover. A road or track offers a level, straight stretch for endurance or speed work. Cross-country riding provides a variety of terrain that challenges the horse’s systems and refreshes his interest in his work.
REPRODUCTION ROUNDUP
Mares are seasonally polyestrous, meaning they have estrous cycles many times per year during breeding season. Depending on where you live, this usually means during late spring, summer, and early fall. During those seasons, the mare will have a heat (estrous) cycle about once every 21 to 23 days and during that cycle, she will have from three to eight days of standing heat (estrus; note the difference in spelling between the cycle and the standing heat), during which she would be receptive to a stallion for breeding.
Odd Words
estrous. The cycle during breeding season, lasting 21—23 days.
estrus. The period of standing heat, lasting 3—8 days
TIPS & TECHNIQUES
Handling a Mare in Heat
You don’t need to do anything special for her when she is in heat. Just be sure, as always, that you provide her with her normal ration, free-choice mineral salt, water, and daily exercise. If you were to leave a mare that is in heat cooped up, when you do take her out, you might have your hands full.
MARES AND THEIR CYCLES. Just like women, each mare is different about how she expresses her heat. Some have PMS — pouty mare syndrome! Not an official term or syndrome, but you get the idea. Some mares are grouchy just before estrus, some during, and some after. One of my mares behaves almost like a gelding. Another is a real “hormone queen” and can get quite anxious and irritable during her heat cycle. The others are more normal in their expression, without a big behavioral change.
Now that you are in the thick of breeding season, jot notes on a calendar. You might notice a pattern: your mare may be sweet, cooperative, and easy to work with on certain days and other days she is impatient, noisy, and preoccupied with something other than what you are doing with her, or even downright grouchy and mean. If you have a mare that is extreme, you might want to plan your training sessions around her worst days. Extra-grouchy mares might kick, bite, or swish their tails when you groom or handle them — so be alert for this. However, it is likely that your mare will show little change at all when she is in heat.
Mares are seasonally polyestrous, meaning they have estrous cycles many times per year during breeding season.
MARES WITH EXTREME PMS. If your mare is dangerous when in heat, confer with your veterinarian, who might suggest hormone therapy. Progesterone administered before the mare comes into heat can cause her to skip her cycle. The drug is injected, implanted, or given orally. If your vet leaves the medication for you to administer, be sure to wear rubber gloves.
Note that mares on this type of therapy can have reproductive problems later. Discuss this thoroughly with your veterinarian before starting your horse on any program.
A mare may show none, some, or all of the following signs when she is in heat:
Frequent urination and winking of the vulva
Interest in stallions and geldings; backing up and squatting near a male
Squealing, striking, and kicking in response to other horses coming near
Swishing tail
Irritability
Less cooperative, more excitable, antsy
Sore or sensitive in the loin area (over the ovaries)
Body language of a mare in heat.
The size and type of arena that is best for you depends on the type of riding you plan to do. Here are some guidelines for various activities:
• Dressage: Small size, 66 feet × 132 feet (20 meters × 40 meters); Large size, 66 feet × 198 feet (20 meters × 60 meters)
• Calf roping: 100 feet × 300 feet
• Team roping: 150 feet × 300 feet
• Pleasure riding: 100 feet × 200 feet
• Barrel racing: 150 feet × 260 feet
• Jumping: 150 feet × 300 feet
An arena fence at least six feet tall discourages horses from putting their heads over the rail as they are turning near the fence. The fencing should be very strong if you plan to ride young horses.
The shape of your arena depends on your training goals. Rectangles allow you to ride your horses deep into the corners and teach them to bend. Oval arenas or rectangles with rounded edges, however, are more appropriate for driving and jumping and are easier to disc and harrow. Gates should be flush on the inside of the arena and the latch should be operable from horseback.
My 100’ × 200’ arena is suitable for all my Western and dressage training.
“Rode hard and put up wet.” This phrase describes a horse that was worked until sweaty, then put away without cooling down or grooming. Today, busy people that are overworked, underpaid, and unappreciated use this phrase to describe themselves.
SHAPING AND EXCAVATING. All arenas should either be crowned at the center or sloped gradually from one side to the other. Choose a site that requires minimal excavating. Bulldozing and grading are very expensive, and the less earth that has to be moved, the cheaper the final project will be. While the heavy equipment is there, you may need to install some ditches to divert surrounding drainage away from your arena. After excavation, the arena site will have to settle for six to 12 months, then be leveled periodically before you add any footing material on top of the base.
FOOTING. Footing must be well drained and of appropriate cushion. The type of footing you choose will depend on your climate, whether the arena is indoor or outdoor, and what type of activity you participate in. Jumpers require cushion without excessive depth. Speed events require a firm footing, such as a mixture including stone dust. Reining horses do best on a firm base with a slightly slick top of sandy loam. Dressage and pleasure horses work well on a resilient footing without excessive depth, such as some of the processed wood products. One of the most common ways of improving native soil is to disc sand or sawdust into the dirt. This lightens and loosens the soil and increases its drainage while adding to its cushion. It takes about 250 tons of sand to provide a 4-inch cover in a 100-foot × 200-foot arena. To firm up the footing, add stone dust, but only a little at a time until you reach the desired consistency. The total footing should probably consist of no more than 10 percent stone dust. Processed footings can be spread over a firm arena base, but they are better to use in an indoor arena. Tan bark, hardwood fiber, and wood chip products tend to freeze later and thaw sooner than the surrounding ground. They don’t need to be disced, just lightly harrowed. However, besides the high expense of the footing itself, processed wood fiber footing requires a well-engineered drainage system in order for it to work at its optimum level.
STILL TRUE TODAY
Historical Horsekeeping
“The rogue is the horse of vices; he may take the bit in his mouth and run away, he will rear, back, kick, strike, bite and do twenty other unpleasant tricks, not always from pure vice, but often from exuberance of spirits, or from being crossed in some way. They generally perform well after they have found out that their rider is their master.”
—Gleason’s Horse Book by Prof. Oscar R. Gleason, 1892
Sun damage is cumulative, so protect yourself every day.
Although exposed skin allows for more evaporative cooling than covered skin, it also absorbs more ultraviolet (UV) rays. And even though a bit of sun can bring color to your cheeks, too much can be destructive to the skin. Get in the habit of wearing a broad-brimmed hat, a long-sleeved shirt with a collar that you can fold up to protect your neck, and gloves for sun protection. Use high-quality sunscreen regularly on your face, hands, and lips.
Take extra-good care of your eyes by making a pair of high-quality sunglasses an integral part of your riding outfit. Buy the ones that provide at least 98 percent protection from ultraviolet rays. Tinted lenses with less protection from UV rays may be worse than no sunglasses at all, because the dark lenses encourage the pupils to dilate, making them more susceptible to harmful rays.
Outfit your horse with a fly sheet and mask when appropriate, and provide him shelter from the hot summer sun.
Make sure you have your building plans approved by your local building commission.
A run-in shed or loafing shed can provide summer protection. They usually have three walls, with one of the long sides open. A shed can protect a horse’s coat from bleaching; protect light-skinned horses that sunburn easily; and provide a place for horses to escape from flies.
I’ve never liked the word “shed,” because it sounds flimsy, yet a run-in shed for horses must be anything but. It must be tough and safe, because horses are free to do whatever they want to it, often without anyone near enough to see. They will rub, kick, and chew; therefore, there should be no sharp edges, protruding fasteners, rough boards with splinters, extending metal roof edges, or anything else that might remotely be a source of injury.
One of the most common causes of severe foot and leg injuries on a shed is the bottom edge of metal siding. There should not be a gap between the siding and the ground where a horse’s hoof could slip under. The bottom edge of the siding needs to be securely attached to a wide skirt board. All exposed wooden edges of a shed (that a horse can reach with his teeth) should be covered with metal edging or treated regularly with a reliable anti-chew product. For siding, choose smooth surfaces that discourage rubbing and chewing, like steel or plywood panels.
en español
hurricane. Comes from el huracán, meaning a ‘severe tropical cyclone’.
Shed Specs
Figure 12 feet by 12 feet for one horse; 12 feet by 24 feet for two; and so on. The ceiling at the back should be 8 feet high; with 11 feet of clearance at the open side. If a shed is permanent, the back wall should stop the prevailing winter wind, which means the opening would normally face east to southeast. If your shed is portable or on skids, you could move it so that it faces north for the summer, or if you have two sheds in one pasture, you could orient them in different directions for full shade during various times of the day. Locate the shed on high ground with good drainage. Plan for access to the shed for cleaning.
A loafing shed can provide shelter from UV rays and insects.
Inside the shed, there should be a kick wall — a solid wall at least 4 feet high around the inside of the walls that prevents a horse from pushing or kicking the siding off from the inside and from rubbing and chewing on the shed framing. Use something like: two layers of ¾-inch plywood or oriented-strand board (OSB); one layer of 1⅛-inch plywood; a layer of ¾-inch plywood covered by rubber mats; 1½-inch tongue-and-groove boards; or 2-inch rough-sawn boards. If you use boards, space them close together. Leaving wide spaces between boards saves materials, but there are more edges for horses to chew on, and wide spaces could be leg traps.
Native soil can work for the floor a run-in shed, especially if it is a portable shed that you move frequently. A more permanent shed would benefit from 4 inches of sand or gravel, but adding footing just invites a horse to use this soft, no-splash area as a preferred place to defecate and urinate.
As with fence wire, the thickness of steel is described by gauge. The size most commonly used for horse panels is 15- or 16-gauge, because it is the best compromise between strength and weight. Thicker 14-gauge steel weighs more, so it would be more suitable for crowding cattle or housing rough stock. Thinner 18-gauge steel is lighter and can bend and dent fairly easily from normal horse activities.
We use metal panels in many ways around our ranch. They can be used to make “instant fence” enclosures of various shapes and sizes to house or train horses — round pens, turnout pens, runs, or outdoor covered “stalls.” Their portability makes them ideal for a temporary situation as well as for long-term use. With panels, it is not necessary to dig postholes, as it is with permanent fencing.
When choosing panels, whether new or used, the first priority should always be safety. Reviewing their features carefully, because most manufacturers make several grades from utility to premium to heavy duty. Horse panels should be weather resistant and of strong construction. It’s a plus if they are easily portable, attractive, and affordable, too.
Here are some features to consider.
• Connectors affect panels’ safety, ease of set-up, and stability. Some require level ground underneath. The panel gap should be minimal so a hoof or leg cannot get caught. (See March Fine Facilities.) Three-way and four-way corners are optimal.
• Panel height. Taller panels cost more but are usually better for horses. I like 6-foot-tall panels.
• Panel length. The most popular horse panels are 12 feet long, because they can be moved by one person.
• Rails. Panels usually have five to seven rails (depending on the panel height) with 8 to 12 inches between the rails. An 8-inch space is ideal for housing adult horses. Panels with 12-inch spacing between rails are more suitable for riding pens and arenas.
The space between the last rail and the ground varies. A 16- to 20-inch space would allow a horse that rolled under a panel to get his legs free more easily, but it also allows a foal to roll completely out of his pen or a yearling to wedge his barrel under the bottom rail. Yet a smaller space isn’t perfect either, as it would make it difficult for any horse to get untangled without hurting himself. Choose the larger spacing if you have only adult horses. For young horses, choose the smaller space and check them frequently.
Sizing Gates
A 4-foot gate with a full 48-inch opening and at least a 7-foot head clearance provides a safe passage for blanketed horses and manure carts. A 6-foot wide gate with 9-foot head clearance is necessary for leading or riding a saddled horse through.
MATERIALS. Most horse panels are made from either square, round, or oval steel tubing — usually 1⅝-inch or 2-inch stock. Oval steel tubing is round tubing that has been flattened. Oval tubing panels require less storage space when stacked, such as on the side of a trailer, so would be a good choice for a portable show or trail-riding pen. On the other hand, oval pipe panels can bend more easily than round pipe panels of an equivalent dimension and gauge.
WEIGHT. A horse panel should be substantial enough to stay in place and withstand normal horse activity, yet easy to move around. There is a great variety in the weight of 12-foot horse panels on the market today, from 53 to 107 pounds. If you need a truly portable pen, opt for lighter weight but realize that you are most likely sacrificing durability and perhaps safety. Especially if you are using panels to make fairly permanent pens or runs, choose heavy panels that will withstand rubbing and general horsing around.
TIPS & TECHNIQUES
Corral Gates
If you are incorporating a pen or run attached to solid fence posts, or to a building that has posts, consider using corral gates (much less expensive than bow gates) that hang on the post from hinge pins. Corral gates are usually available in 2-foot increments from 4 feet to 16 feet.
FINISH. Horse panels are either galvanized or painted. Common colors are gray, brown, green, and galvanized silver. The finish must withstand horses rubbing, banging, and chewing, as well as the effects of sun and moisture.
PRICE. When it comes to price, it is important to compare similar heights, lengths, and quality of materials. Be sure you are not comparing the economy panel from one manufacturer with the premium panel of another. The final price you pay will also be affected by tax and delivery charges.
When horses do something we perceive as bad, it’s usually due to poor management or training. To deal with vices and bad habits, we need to understand what causes them and then design our horse care and training programs to prevent them.
A vice is an abnormal behavior that usually shows up in the barn or stable environment, resulting from confinement, improper management, or lack of exercise. A vice can affect a horse’s usefulness, dependability, and health. Examples are cribbing, weaving, and self-mutilation.
A vice is an abnormal behavior that usually shows up in the barn or stable environment, resulting from confinement, improper management, or lack of exercise.
Pawing is destructive to facilities and hooves.
Vices and bad habits are best approached in a step-by-step manner:
1. Understand horse behavior and needs
2. Identify and describe the vice or bad habit
3. Determine the cause(s)
4. Make management changes (facilities, exercise, nutrition, conditioning, or grooming)
5. Implement appropriate training practices
6. Consider remedial training practices
7. Consider medical and surgical solutions.
A bad habit is an undesirable behavior that occurs during training or handling and is usually a result of poor techniques and a lack of understanding of horse behavior.
Whoever said a horse was dumb was dumb.
— Will Rogers
A bad habit is an undesirable behavior that occurs during training or handling and is usually a result of poor techniques and a lack of understanding of horse behavior. Examples are rearing, halter pulling, striking, and kicking.
Certain horses have a predisposition to neurotic breakdown when faced with domestication pressures. This psychological frailty may be genetically inherited, formed from early experiences with the dam or training, or may develop later in life due to disease or trauma. Horses with neurotic tendencies often form vices. Most vices and bad habits are preventable, that is, with forethought and proper management and training, most of them can be avoided. Prevention is the desirable route because once certain habits are established, they can be much more difficult to change.
Some habits are manageable: that is, certain techniques and equipment can diminish negative effects, but the underlying habit is still there. If the equipment is not used, the habit resurfaces. A few habits are curable. With carefully planned, diligent efforts, some habits can be permanently changed. Some vices and bad habits are incurable.
HURRICANE SEASON IN THE SOUTHEAST
Hurricanes are severe tropical storms that form in the Atlantic Ocean. The winds rotate counterclockwise around the eye and must be at least 74 miles per hour to qualify as a hurricane. Approximately six hurricanes per year affect the United States. Although the Eastern Pacific hurricane season generally runs from May 15 to November 30, the Atlantic, Caribbean, and Gulf of Mexico season begins June 1 and runs until the end of November. Hurricane threats include storm surge, wind, floods, and tornadoes.
The storm surge is the heavy waves that come ashore when the eye hits land. They can be 50 miles wide. The eye-wall wind speeds can be 100 miles per hour at the coast, and have reached 175 miles per hour inland. Flooding occurs from the strong storm surge plus the heavy rain that often accompanies hurricanes. There is usually at least one tornado during the first three days after a hurricane has hit land. See more about tornadoes in April Horsekeeping Across America.
“And God took a handful of southerly wind, blew his breath over it, and created the horse.”
— Bedouin legend
PLAN FOR THE WORST. If you live in a hurricane-prone area, have an evacuation plan that includes your horses. This might mean boarding your horses inland in a safe area for a few days ahead of each forecast storm, or for the entire season. Be sure they are up to date on all vaccinations and have current health papers and necessary identification. Have feed, water, and medical supplies packed and ready to roll. Keep paperwork in a waterproof container, including all pertinent phone numbers, photos and legal descriptions, brand papers, and anything else you need to identify your horse and prove ownership.
Ask Cherry
Outdoor Arena Fence
Q
I have leveled out a spot 170 feet by 70 feet for an outdoor arena. What size boards should I use? I am using railroad ties for the posts. I don’t plan on turning horses loose in it. I want a riding arena that I can also use for trail horse obstacles. My posts will be 10 feet apart. Would 10-foot 2x6s work?
A
For a riding arena you need a visual barrier more than a strong physical barrier, so either 2-inch by 6-inch or 2-inch by 8-inch boards would work. You can put in from two to four boards. If you use two rails, they should be 36 inches and 54 inches high. The problem with spanning a 10-foot space with a 10-foot long 2x6, or even a 2x8, is that the board might warp and twist. It would be better to space the posts 8 feet apart and then span two spaces with 16-foot-long boards. That way, each board is attached to three posts and will stay straighter.
An option worth considering is high-tensile polymer (HTP) fence used with your railroad tie posts. It consists of high-tensile wire encased in polymer webbing, which makes up rails of various widths. HTP is comparable in price to wood rails and would likely be more cost effective in the long run, because you would never have to paint it or treat it. The posts could be spaced 10 feet apart or even wider with HTP. Another option is to use 10-foot-long vinyl-covered boards, which would not twist and warp, and would never need painting. However, they are quite expensive.
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