Vivek Singh’s Indian Festival Feasts

This is one of the few Hindu festivals that falls on the same date every year – 14th January – and is traditionally meant to symbolise the day after the winter solstice. Celebrated all over India, Nepal and Bangladesh in various cultural forms, it is essentially a Hindu harvest festival, celebrating the (imminent) arrival of spring.

It is known by different names in different regions, including Pongal, Makar Sankranti, Uttarayan, Maghi, Bhogali Bihu, Shishur Saenkraat, Khichdi and Makara Sankramana. Pongal takes its name from the Tamil Nadu version of the festival, in which rice is boiled with milk and jaggery, topped with brown sugar, cashew nuts and raisins, and when the pot boils over the tradition is to shout ‘Pongal, Pongal’, announcing the blessing of a new year.

As a child I remember the period from just after Diwali to Pongal or Sankranti as being a period quite devoid of any festivities or celebrations. Thank goodness for more cosmopolitan and modern-day festivities such New Year’s Eve; otherwise, in strict Hindu faith, that period is quite possibly the longest time without any celebration worth noting.

From Pongal onwards things start looking up and the winter doesn’t seem so hard anymore. It is the first proper festival of the year and is often seen as a time for the reunion of families. In this sense, it demonstrates strong cultural and familial values. It is not uncommon in India for young men to leave home, or the states or provinces where they were born, to go and work in the larger metropolitan cities where there are better job opportunities, and Pongal often sees them return home to spend time with their families.

Women draw colourful patterns outside their homes to celebrate Pongal. (Sebastian D’Souza/AFP/Getty)

Pongal is celebrated in many different forms depending where you are in India. In much of India the festival traditionally runs over four days, as explained below, while other regions focus on particular elements and the celebrations might just be one or two days, many of which replicate the festivities seen on the second day, known as Makar Sankranti.

The day before Pongal is celebrated as Lohri in Punjab and western Uttar Pradesh, and is a celebration of the passing of the winter solstice; it’s an excuse for merriment, singing and dancing around bonfires. In both these regions, as well as in West Bengal, bathing in a river or sacred place in the early hours of Makar Sankranti (known as Maghi) is important, and the Punjabis dance their famous bhangra dance, before sitting down to a feast – a common feature of this festival wherever it is celebrated!

The first day of Pongal is when families traditionally have a clear out and discard old things, as this festival is a chance to focus on the new, hoping for change and transformation. At dawn, people light symbolic bonfires and burn old clothes to mark the end of the old and the emergence of the new. The burning of unwanted physical possessions represents the throwing off of old habits and vices and the chance to start again. Sweets are often prepared and shared, and gifts of food, clothes and money might be given.

The second day is a chance for people to wear new clothes and pray as well as making offerings of traditional foods to those who have died. Beautiful rangoli patterns are often designed out of chalk or flour in front of people’s homes and decorated with flowers and bright colours.

On the third day, the animal kingdom is celebrated, particularly cattle as they are a symbol of prosperity (some regions see bull fighting or taming taking place throughout the festival), while on the fourth day people, particularly farmers, offer prayers to the elements – rain, fire, earth – for helping in the harvest.

One of the things that Pongal is most famous for is the flying of kites, called patang; and in every town and city people gather and the sky is filled with beautiful colourful kites. This is particularly seen in Gujarat.

The food during Pongal varies from region to region, however it often features seasonal delicacies in celebration of a good harvest. I remember breakfast on Sankranti always used to be a meal of soaked rice flakes, yoghurt and some sugar or jaggery. And that was it – as simple as that, no cooking involved. Then lunch always had to be kichri; rice, lentils and whatever vegetables you had, plus perhaps a little burnt aubergine relish with mustard oil. This simple meal was the basis of Sankranti for me, every single year. And no matter what, it was always vegetarian. In fact, in many regions, the first three days of Pongal are strictly vegetarian, with meat only eaten on the last day.

Pongal traditions include the boiling of rice in milk, and when the pot spills over the festivities can really begin. (IndiaPictures/UIG via Getty)

Bull-wrestling is often seen during Pongal, where decorated bulls run into a crowd of men who try to catch and ride the animals. It is very dangerous. (Palani Mohan/Getty)

In the evening, often litti would be made on a small fire made by burning cow pat. These little dough balls filled with a roasted lentil mixture are a favourite of mine, enjoyed with potato crush and burnt aubergine relish. Sweets made from sesame and boiled sugar have always proved very popular with the kids, as well as grown ups! Sesame features widely in many sweets, such as til gajak, coated in sugar syrup.

If I ever had to pick just one, this probably would be my inheritance recipe – baked dough balls filled with spiced chickpeas and raisins, served with burnt aubergine crush with mustard oil. During Makar Sankranti or north Indian Pongal, this is often cooked in the late afternoon/early evening, and the fire serves the dual purpose of a bonfire and the equivalent of a barbecue in the western world.

The rather spicy relish that forms the filling is extremely versatile and can be used as an accompaniment to a simple meal of steamed rice and vegetables or as a filling for bread. It’s quite commonly made and served in parts of eastern Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan and Bihar. It’s generally great for dry and arid heat, as it helps water retention in the body.

This rather basic rustic meal from eastern Uttar Pradesh was often cooked by my dad when we were growing up. As I have often said, my mother cooked three meals a day for the five of us, 364 days a year, and we hardly took any notice of her efforts, whereas my dad cooked one meal a year and it stuck with me! Think of this al fresco experience as similar to a BBQ in the west – men cooking man food.

To make the dough, mix the flour, salt, carom seeds and vegetable oil together in a bowl with 225ml of water. Knead until smooth, then set aside to rest for 10 minutes.

To make the filling, mix together all the ingredients and keep refrigerated. It keeps really well and may be stored in an airtight container for up to a week. If you wish, add more oil to the mix to get it to hold together better.

Divide the dough into 15 balls, each of about 50g. Flatten each dough ball slightly, then make an indentation with your thumb to create a cavity which is slightly thicker at the bottom and thinner at the sides. The cavity should be big enough to accommodate 40–50g of the lentil filling. Place the filling in the cavity, then pull the dough from the sides to cover the filling and set aside.

Lay the dough balls on a wire rack and bake in the preheated oven for 15–18 minutes, turning once if needed. Some parts of the dough balls may begin to blister and crack but that’s OK. Remove from the oven and toss the litti with ghee when they are still warm.

This is a favourite meal for most Tamilians at Pongal. The Tamil sambar is different from other versions as it doesn’t use coconut, which is otherwise seen in Andhra and sometimes Kerala. Don’t worry if you can’t find some of the vegetables listed – just use what you can and increase quantities to suit. It’s quite a flexible dish in that sense.

100g toor lentils, washed in 2 changes of water and soaked in water for 20 minutes

Place the drained lentils in a pan with the turmeric, ½ teaspoon of the salt, 1 sprig of the curry leaves and 1 litre of water. Bring to the boil and cook for 50 minutes or until thoroughly cooked, then set aside (no need to drain).

Dry roast the ingredients for the sambar masala in a shallow frying pan for 2–3 minutes over a medium heat until they give off a roasted aroma. Let them cool, then grind to a fine powder using a mortar and pestle or a blender.

Heat the oil in a pan, add the dried red chilli and stir for 30 seconds or until it changes colour and becomes dark red and blistered in parts. Immediately add the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and urad dal and stir for 15 seconds until they crackle and pop and the lentils change colour and become darker brown. Add the asafoetida, the remaining curry leaves and the sliced shallots and sauté well for 5–6 minutes. When the shallots have softened, add all the remaining vegetables, drumstick (if using) and the mango and stir to mix well. Cook over a high heat for 3–4 minutes, then add the remaining salt and the sambar masala. Mix well, add 350ml of water and the tamarind pulp, and boil for 10 minutes, then add the jaggery and cook for another couple of minutes. Add the boiled lentils and cook over a low heat for a further 10 minutes.

Top right: Litti Chokha
Bottom left: Baingan ka Chokha

Top right: Chivda Mutter
Middle: Andhra Til Chutney
Bottom right: Achari Kaddu ki Subzi

This is an adaptation of my mother’s recipe for sweet pumpkin chutney and as a child I was a great fan of this rich, sweet and spicy dish with strong flavours. In its intense chutney form, it was fantastic with parathas and could also be used as a spread in sandwiches or wraps. As good as it is as a chutney, this curry is the real thing and a brilliant way to enjoy pumpkin in all its glory. Serve with either plain boiled rice or simple bread.

I remember as a child we lived for some time in our small colliery town, and the nearest market was a few miles away so food shopping wasn’t easy. My mum was reliant on either my dad or his driver to bring back the shopping. During those days, once or twice a week a vegetable seller would come to the colliery in the afternoons, selling vegetables from a basket carried over his head. From time to time my mum would buy vegetables from him, particularly if he had a pumpkin for sale. She would always tell me ‘It’s probably the heaviest of all the things he is carrying and he will be happy to lose the load off his head’. That I loved her pumpkin dishes more than any other vegetable is beside the point!

Heat the oil in a pan, add the fenugreek seeds, nigella seeds and dried red chillies and allow them to pop. Add the pumpkin and stir over a high heat for 4–5 minutes. Add the turmeric, salt, red chilli powder and sugar, and stir for 2 minutes, then add 500ml of water, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 8–10 minutes until the pumpkin is tender and but still retains its shape. If the curry appears thin, simply mash a few pieces of the pumpkin with a spoon or ladle to thicken the sauce.

Finish with the dried mango powder or a couple of teaspoons of mango chutney, sprinkle with chopped coriander and serve with rice or bread of your choice.

This pumpkin curry makes an excellent accompaniment for game dishes, such as grouse or deer, too.

This is a delicious recipe using snake gourd – a vegetable frequently used in south Indian cooking. Although it’s becoming increasingly available in supermarkets and good Asian stores in the UK, if you can’t find it, feel free to replace with aubergine or bottle gourd (doodhi), or even courgettes. They taste delicious cooked like this.

400g snake gourd, peeled and sliced in half lengthways, then into 5mm thick pieces

Dry roast the 3 spice mix ingredients in a pan until golden in colour, then cool and grind coarsely.

Drain the lentils and mix together in a pan, add 1.75 litres of water, 1 teaspoon of the turmeric, 1 teaspoon of the salt and 1 sprig of the curry leaves. Bring to the boil, cover and boil for 30–40 minutes until the lentils are cooked. Drain and set aside.

Heat the oil in a pan, then add the shallots, green chillies, garlic, the remaining curry leaves and the remaining salt and cook over a medium-low heat for 5 minutes. When the shallots have softened, add the remaining turmeric and the snake gourd and sauté for 3–4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook over a low heat for 10 minutes, then add the cooked lentils and coconut spice mix, mix well and cook for another 10–15 minutes.

For the tempering, heat the ghee in a pan and add the whole red chilli and mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds splutter, add the urad dal, curry leaves and asafoetida. Pour the hot mixture into the pan with the gourd and lentils, then finish with the coriander leaves and lemon juice.

Kedgeree, or kichri as it is known in India, is a humble dish perfectly suited to cold, rainy days. When it is combined with crunchy, caramelised, spicy cauliflower, carrots and peas, there is a fascinating interaction of textures and flavours.

150g split yellow moong lentils, washed in 2–3 changes of water and soaked for 20 minutes

Start by making the kichri. Place the drained lentils and rice in a heavy-based pan with the salt, turmeric and 1 litre of water. Bring to the boil and skim any scum from the surface of the water. Lower the heat, partially cover and cook for 25–30 minutes until the lentils and rice are cooked thoroughly. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, get on with the vegetables. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the cumin seeds and let them crackle. Add the onion seeds, fennel seeds, ginger and chillies, and then the cauliflower, carrot and peas. Stir over a high heat for 1–2 minutes, then add the salt, turmeric, sugar and vinegar. Stir to mix, then cover with a lid, reduce the heat and allow the vegetables to cook in their own steam for 2–3 minutes. Remove the lid, add the coriander and heat through, then remove from the heat and keep warm.

Back to the kichri – heat 2 tablespoons of the ghee or butter in a pan, add the cumin seeds and garlic and cook gently until golden. Add the onion and sauté until it begins to colour, then stir in the ginger and green chillies and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the cooked rice and lentils plus any cooking liquid and the coriander and stir over a low heat for 3–4 minutes. If the kichri appears too thick or gloopy, add boiling water to water it down a little (the dish is meant to be quite wet and will continue to thicken after cooking). Correct the seasoning as required and finish with the remaining tablespoon of ghee or butter and the lemon juice. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Divide the kedgeree among 4 plates and serve with the vegetable stir-fry on top.

Left: Padavalanga Kootu
Right: Madras Sambar

A chokha is the ultimate pairing for the humble kichri served up at Makar Sankranti in Uttar Pradesh. This simple but very effective aubergine crush is an excellent accompaniment to grilled meats and fish. It is also very versatile, and can be served as a filling for wraps too. The aubergines can be either roasted in an oven or charred on a very hot grill, or even burnt on an open flame. Akin to roasting peppers to remove the skin, this imparts a wonderful smokiness to the dish. Unlike a north Indian aubergine crush where the aubergines are cooked further with onions, tomatoes and spices after being roasted, this version is eastern Indian in influence.

Prick the aubergines using a sharp pointed knife and stuff the halved garlic cloves into them. Smear each aubergine with ½ tablespoon of the oil, place on a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 30–40 minutes until the aubergines are roasted and completely cooked. Don’t worry if the skin is charred – you actually want that to happen. Alternatively, you can cook them on a barbecue or the flame of a gas hob, which allows the skin to become properly burnt. This adds smokiness and umami to the finished dish.

Allow the aubergines to cool, then peel and discard the skin and stem. Chop up the aubergine pulp and mix with the green chillies, onions, coriander, lime juice and the remaining oil. Add sea salt to taste.

I remember my mother would make this every day from the day after Makar Sankranti (14th January) until around Holi for my dad’s evening snack when he returned from work. If the rice flakes (pawa) you are using are the thick variety, then it is advisable to deep fry the rice flakes in very hot oil. If they are the thin variety, they can be slow roasted or shallow fried in a wide pan for 10–15 minutes with continuous stirring.

Start with the rice flakes. Heat the oil in a pan, add the sliced onion and green chilli and stir for 1 minute. Next add the pressed rice flakes and continue cooking over a low-medium heat, stirring constantly for 8–10 minutes until the rice flakes are roasted and turn almost brown and the onion becomes crisp. Sprinkle in the salt, turmeric and chilli powder, if using, and stir for another 2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool.

In the meantime, heat the ghee in a separate pan, add the cumin seeds and let them crackle for 30 seconds. Add the garlic chives or spring onions, then add the peas and cook over a high heat for 4–5 minutes until cooked and soft. Season with salt.

Divide the crisp rice flakes among individual plates, top with the cooked peas and serve immediately for the perfect evening or mid-morning snack.

Amruth literally means ‘immortal nectar’. This is a mixture of five (panch) ingredients that are considered to have health benefits. The combination of these ingredients is often used as a prasad, distributed in very small quantities to devotees at the end of a veneration or puja. Here we are suggesting serving slightly larger portions, almost like a lassi or a milkshake.

Blend all the ingredients and chill for 30 minutes. Serve as a lassi in a small cup or bowl, either straight up or over ice.

Top left: Til Gajak
Bottom left: Kheer
Top right: Panchamruth
Bottom right: Moong dal Payasam

The deep, spicy, warm heat of ginger combined with the richness of sesame and the sweet-sour of jaggery and tamarind makes this a rather special chutney. It will keep well even outside the fridge for a couple of days.

Heat ½ tablespoon of the oil in a pan, add the red chillies and garlic and stir for a few minutes until the garlic turns golden brown. Tip out of the pan and set aside.

Add both types of lentils to the same pan and stir for 2 minutes over a medium heat until golden brown. Add the sesame seeds and roast for another minute or so until the sesame seeds begin to pop, turn brown and smell roasted. Remove from the pan.

Heat the remaining ½ tablespoon of oil in the pan oil, add the ginger and sauté for 3–4 minutes until nicely browned, then set aside.

Mix all the cooked ingredients together and let them cool. Add the jaggery and tamarind, then grind coarsely in a blender or food processor. Add just enough water to make a paste in the blender and mix in the salt. Transfer to a bowl.

Heat the oil for the tempering in a pan, add the mustard seeds and curry leaves and let them crackle for 30 seconds or so, then pour over the chutney.

As a child, these were some of my favourite boiled sweets during Sankranti. When I was growing up they weren’t available all year round – only during January – but no one ever made them at home. They were almost always bought in. It took me a few goes to get this right, but do try them. They’re great to offer to kids and to serve with coffee at the end of a meal.

Dry roast the sesame seeds in a pan over a medium heat, stirring continuously to avoid them spluttering out of the pan, until the seeds are golden and give off a roasted aroma.

Dissolve the jaggery in a pan with 60ml of water, then bring to the boil and cook to soft crack stage on a sugar thermometer (approximately 132–143ºC). Check its consistency by putting a drop of the syrup in a dish of cold water. If the drop stays firm, the consistency is right.

Add the roasted sesame seeds and ground cardamom to the syrup. Grease an 18cm square metal tray with a film of the ghee and spread out the sesame-jaggery mixture to an even thickness.

Apply some more ghee to a flat spoon and press to flatten the mixture to a thickness of approximately 5mm. When the mixture has cooled down enough to handle, cut it into square pieces. Let it cool completely and store in an airtight container.

Rice kheer is considered to be the simplest and purest of all foods in Hinduism. Kheer is often offered to gods during veneration and religious ceremonies, and then distributed among the devotees as bhog or prasadam, or a blessing, afterwards.

It is one of the few dishes that are made all over the country, from the north to the south and the east to the west, and much like most other recipes, there are thousands of variations! The addition of dried fruit, nuts, raisins or coconut – all these are affectations as the basis of this food of the gods is only three ingredients: milk, sugar and rice.

Wash the rice in cold running water, then soak in 250ml of water for 15 minutes.

Bring the milk to the boil with the cardamom and sugar, then reduce the heat and simmer until it is about 850ml in volume. Add the drained rice and cook over a low heat for 25–30 minutes, simmering and stirring occasionally until the rice is soft and the grains begin to break up. Add the raisins, cashews or almonds and pistachios and simmer for 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow it to cool slightly before serving.

Kheer can be served hot or cold, although most commonly it is served at room temperature.

Most of the nation uses rice to make kheer or payasam, but this Tamil version with roasted moong lentils is an excellent alternative at Pongal.

Dry-roast the moong lentils in a frying pan over a low heat for 8–10 minutes, until they change colour, smell roasted and get brown specks in parts. Soak the lentils in 1.25 litres of water for 20 minutes, then drain. Place in a pan and add 1.25 litres of fresh water, bring to the boil and then simmer over a low heat for around 45 minutes, until almost all the water has gone and the lentils are mushy, like porridge.

In a separate pan, make a syrup by dissolving the jaggery in 125ml of water and bring to the boil. Boil just until the jaggery has dissolved and no lumps remain.

When the moong lentils are cooked, add the jaggery syrup and coconut milk to the pan, cook over a medium heat for another 5 minutes, then add the ground cardamom.

Heat the ghee in another small pan, add the cashew nuts and raisins and fry over a low heat for a minute or so until the cashews are golden and the raisins puff up, then add the desiccated coconut and cook over a low heat until they all turn golden. Pour over the lentil kheer, mix and serve hot.

Holi festivities at Bankey Bihari Temple in Vrindavan. (Majid Saeedi/Getty)