A street vendor sits among his colour powders in New Delhi, two days ahead of the festival. (Manan Vatsyayana/AFP/Getty)
Holi
There are several stories in Hindu mythology about the origins of Holi, but my favourite one is that of Krishna, known for his playfulness and mischief. As naughty and popular as he was in the village, the one thing he couldn’t come to terms with was why everybody else in the village was of a fair complexion. Radha, his girlfriend, was especially fair. He often asked his mother Yashoda, ‘why is it that I am so dark and Radha so fair?’ Tired of Krishna’s frequent lamenting and complaining about his complexion, Yashoda gave him a plate of several colours, and said ‘You can colour Radha in whichever colours you like.’ And so they say began Holi, often known as the festival of love!
Holi is an Indian festival of colours celebrated to announce the arrival of spring and the passing of winter. According to Indian mythology it is a festival celebrating the victory of good over evil. It is also a festival of letting go of what has already passed, traditionally a time to end conflicts and forget past mistakes and move on, and awaken new hopes and strengthen our ties with our friends and loved ones.
A street vendor sits among his colour powders in New Delhi, two days ahead of the festival. (Manan Vatsyayana/AFP/Getty)
Holi is a festival unlike anything anywhere else in the world. Most of the other festivals in this book are about sharing, remembering, sacrificing or abstinence, but Holi is also a festival of fun, frolics, pranks and good food. It is about friends and not taking oneself too seriously.
The only rule about Holi is that there are no rules. For a hierarchical society like India, where there is a lot of emphasis on traditions, rituals and rules about not doing things in certain ways, Holi is the one festival that doesn’t have any rules. This festival bridges social gaps and brings people together; old and young, men and women, teachers and students, it’s about letting your hair down, having fun, letting go and celebrating friendships.
Holi is infamously known for its free-for-all carnival of colours and the iconic paint fights – the way that people ‘play Holi’ by chasing each other with gulal (coloured powdered paints), wet paints or water. Everyone is involved, from young to old, and rich to poor, and the riots of colours are seen in all open spaces, but it is a generally accepted rule that only dry powder is used inside homes or in doorways. Before this day of fun begins, however, people often spend time collecting wood or materials to build a big bonfire which is lit the night before Holi to symbolise the victory of good over evil. The festivities begin with people gathered together and dancing around the fire.
As a child this was probably my favourite festival. Partly because there were no formalities, nor any rules, and partly because what a rowdy riot of a party it could end up being! It was a public holiday, which meant the coal mine was shut and all the families in the community had a rare day off. The entire community, about 300 families, would play Holi amongst their friends and eventually would all end up in this massive playground in front of the house. There would be music, singing, dancing, food and drink, generally lots of fun!
When we were younger we used to play Holi at different stages and different levels of intensity. The start of the day used to be the most hard core, which was playing Holi with mud and slush; frankly, not very pleasant. The second stage was with wet colours, whilst the third stage was with dry colours. Over the years I have dropped the ‘hard’ Holi way and just play with colours now! The arrival of spring also meant that the weather was much kinder and there was a generally good spirit all around.
Fast forward to modern day life and Holi is being embraced all over the world by people of all backgrounds and faiths. This is one of those festivals that has transcended the bounds of religion and gone on to become a true modern day festival of pure fun. Today there is so much more awareness and interest around what used to be a pretty niche festival when I was growing up, showing how society has evolved and how people are so much more interested in other people’s cultures and discovering new experiences.
Dozens of Holi celebrations have cropped up in the UK, most notably being The Cinnamon Kitchen’s House of Holi that we are so proud of. I absolutely love the look on people’s faces when they walk past a rather austere and formal looking city square in a predictable grey suit, seeing other people throw paints at each other like there’s no tomorrow. And they just can’t resist the temptation of jumping in and joining in the fun.
Much like the festival, the food itself has very few rules; it’s one of the few Indian festivals where it’s okay to serve and eat meat. Whether it’s a meal or nibbles, snacks, savouries or sweets, just about everything goes.
Holi celebrations in full swing, with people taking part in traditional dances and acting. (Manan Vatsyayana/AFP/Getty)
Top row, left to right: Palak Pakoda Chaat; Papdi (for Papdi Chaat); Lentil dumplings (for Dahi Vada); Mutter Jeera Tikiya Chaat, Papdi Chaat; Golgappa.
Middle row, left to right: Dahi Vada; Samosa; Dhaniyey ki Hari Chutney and Jodhpuri Mirchi Vada; curried chickpeas.
Bottom row, left to right: Mutter Jeera Tikiya Chaat and curried chickpeas; Imli ki Chutney; Dahi ka Ghol.
Papdi Chaat
Crisp Wheat Biscuits with Spiced Potato and Chutneys
Short, crisp discs made with wheat, dipped in tart-sweet tamarind chutney, loaded with spiced potato, more fresh zingy coriander and cooling yoghurt – papdi chaat is, for many people, the Prince of Chaats.
Serves 4
oil, for deep frying
2 tablespoons green coriander chutney
50g sev (chickpea vermicelli, available online and in good Asian stores), to garnish
50g pomegranate seeds, to garnish
For the papdi dough
250g plain flour
3 tablespoons ghee
½ teaspoon carom seeds
½ teaspoon salt
For the yoghurt dressing
250ml plain yoghurt
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sugar
250ml chilled water
For the potato chaat
2 potatoes, boiled in their skins, peeled and diced into 5mm cubes
1 red onion, finely chopped
2 green chillies, chopped
1cm piece of ginger, finely chopped
1 teaspoon chaat masala
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, dry roasted in a hot pan for 1 minute and coarsely crushed
1 tablespoon freshly chopped coriander
2 tablespoons tamarind chutney
To make the papdi dough, place all the ingredients in a mixing bowl with 125ml of water and mix to a stiff dough without kneading too much. Set aside for 20 minutes at room temperature.
To make the yoghurt dressing, mix all the ingredients together and refrigerate until required.
Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough to a sheet about 2mm thick. Prick it with a fork to prevent shrinkage. Cut out the dough into circles about 4cm in diameter using a cutter. Deep fry in batches in hot oil at 150–160ºC for 6–7 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oil and spread out on kitchen paper to remove the excess oil. Divide the papdi between 4 plates.
Place all the ingredients for the chaat in a mixing bowl, mix well and spoon it over the papdi. Drizzle the yoghurt dressing and green coriander chutney over and sprinkle sev and pomegranate seeds on top.
Samosa
Punjabi-style Samosas
A samosa is a deep-fried snack sold and eaten on streets all across north India. It is a triangular pastry shell stuffed with either spiced vegetables or meat. The filling can be made from potatoes, onions, peas and lamb (or paneer) with spices. It is commonly served with tamarind-date chutney and coriander chutney or mint chutney and sometimes with ketchup. The real deal with Punjabi samosas is the technique involved in shaping them. Properly made dough and well-folded samosas sit like proud 3D pyramids, much like the proud Punjabi!
Makes 24 samosas
For the filling
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ onion, finely chopped
200g lamb mince
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons cashew nuts, chopped
1 tablespoon raisins
1 medium potato, boiled and grated
125g green peas or petits pois
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1cm piece of ginger, finely chopped
2 tablespoons freshly chopped mint leaves
juice of ½ lemon
For the pastry
130g plain flour
½ teaspoon ajwain or carom seeds
½ teaspoon nigella seeds
¼ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus extra for deep frying
To make the filling, heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until it turns a light golden colour. Add the lamb and cook over a high heat for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously, then add the ground cumin, turmeric, red chilli powder and salt and cook for a minute or so. Next add the sugar, cashew nuts and raisins and cook for 1 minute, then add the grated potato, peas, chillies and ginger. Cook, stirring well, for 3–4 minutes over a medium heat until well mixed. Finally, sprinkle the chopped mint in and squeeze the lemon juice over. Turn off the heat and let the mixture cool, then divide into 24 equal portions.
To make the pastry, mix the flour, spices and salt in a bowl. Add the oil and rub with your fingers until the oil is incorporated into the flour and you have a crumbly texture. Slowly add 60ml of water and knead into a smooth ball of dough (do not add all the water at once). Rub some oil over the dough ball and cover it with clingfilm. Set aside to rest for 10 minutes.
Roll the dough into a long cylinder and cut with a knife into 12 equal parts. Roll each portion between your palms and press into a circle. Using a rolling pin, roll it gently into a flat circle about 7.5–10cm in diameter. (Do not dust your work surface with flour – if the dough is sticking, use some oil.)
Cut each rolled circle in half to make 2 equal semi-circles. Apply a dab of water to the straight edge and make a cone shape by joining and slightly overlapping the straight edge. Press gently on the join to seal.
Fill the cone with a portion of the cooled stuffing, then apply a little more water on the outer edge and seal the samosa completely. Repeat the same process until all the pastry and filling are used.
Heat the oil for deep frying in a deep pan over a medium heat. Once hot, add a few samosas at a time and deep fry until golden brown. You need to cook over a low-medium heat to allow the pastry shell to cook through, otherwise it will remain dough-like. Fry all the samosas in batches and drain on kitchen paper.
Serve hot with green coriander chutney, mint chutney and tamarind chutney.
Mutter Jeera Tikiya Chaat
Green Pea and Potato Cakes
Pretty much every square in every town has a chaat vendor that people will flock to day and night to sample their range of chaats. During the winter green peas get added but if they’re not available, these cakes can be made with just plain boiled potatoes too.
Makes 8
250g green peas, fresh or frozen
2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
4 green chillies, roughly chopped
¼ bunch of coriander stalks, washed and roughly cut
5 medium boiled potatoes, peeled and grated
2 teaspoons roasted cumin seeds, crushed
50g cornflour
2 teaspoons salt
35g roasted peanuts, crushed (optional)
vegetable oil, for shallow frying
Place the green peas, ginger, green chillies and coriander stalks in a food processor and coarsely grind them. Place the grated potatoes in a mixing bowl; add the ground green pea mixture and the cumin seeds, cornflour, salt and peanuts. Mix evenly.
Make 8 equal-sized patties and shallow fry them in a medium-hot frying pan for 2–3 minutes on each side until they turn a golden colour on both sides and become crisp. Serve hot with curried chickpeas and tamarind and green coriander chutneys and yoghurt dressing
Makhana
Puffed Lotus Seeds
I remember my dad preparing trays of lotus seeds, chopped nuts and dried fruits to welcome guests during Holi. For some reason, lotus seeds were only offered in our household to guests during Holi or in emergency situations when my mother had run out of virtually everything else in her cupboard! Usually they are served straight up along with chopped dried fruits and nuts, but I prefer the roasted version when they have been sautéed with ghee over a low heat and sprinkled with salt and chaat masala. Then, to add another dimension, I caramelise half of them and mix them back in with the salted version – it’s an amazing snack for kids and grown-ups alike.
Serves 6–8
50g ghee
100g puffed lotus seeds (available in good Asian stores and health food shops)
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons chopped coriander
½ teaspoon chaat masala
For the sweet lotus seeds
100g sugar
Heat the ghee in a pan over a medium heat. Add both types of lotus seeds and roast over a medium heat for 6–8 minutes, stirring constantly. When they start to smell roasted and begin to colour in parts, remove half and then add the turmeric, salt, sugar, coriander and chaat masala to the pan. Mix well and remove from the heat. (If you don’t have a pan large enough to hold all the lotus seeds at once, then cook in 2 batches.)
The salted version is ready to serve, and the second part can now be caramelised.
To make the sweet lotus seeds, place the sugar in a large deep frying pan and add 50ml of water. Bring the sugar and water solution to the boil. When it boils, reduce it until it turns into a golden caramel, which will take about 5–6 minutes. Add the reserved roasted lotus seeds, stir to mix evenly, remove and cool on a tray.
Mix the 2 types together and store in an airtight container until ready to serve.
Jodhpuri Mirchi Vada
Spiced Potato-filled Chilli Fritters
Even though the name suggests this dish comes from Jodhpur, these snacks are popular all over northern India, especially during the winter and at Holi. It’s not uncommon to see young men compete to see how many mirchi vadas they can have during Holi. Men will be men, no matter which part of the world they live in – I suppose with a few drinks down, bravado kicks in! Contrary to how it may appear, depending upon the choice of chilli being used, the dish doesn’t have to be ‘blow your head off’ hot.
Serves 6
300g or 25–30 mild banana chillies, Padron peppers or jalapeño peppers
vegetable oil, for deep frying
For the stuffing
4 medium potatoes
1 green chilli, finely chopped
2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander
½ teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon dried mango powder (or juice of ½ lemon)
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
For the batter
120g chickpea flour
¼ teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon carom seeds
pinch of asafoetida
½ teaspoon salt
pinch of baking soda (optional)
Using the tip of a sharp knife, slit each chilli down one side, taking care to leave the stalk intact. Slit from the top and keep about 5–10mm uncut at the bottom. Remove the seeds.
To make the filling, steam or boil the potatoes in their skins until they are cooked and soft. While the potatoes are still warm, peel and mash them. Add the remaining stuffing ingredients and mix well. Stuff each slit green chilli with the potato mixture and set aside.
To make the batter, place the chickpea flour in a bowl with the chilli powder, carom seeds, asafoetida, salt and baking soda, if using. Add 120ml of water and mix well to make a medium-thick batter – it should be thick enough to coat the chillies.
Heat the oil in a deep fryer to 160–170ºC.
Dip the stuffed chillies in the batter and coat well. Fry the chillies in batches in the hot oil for 5–6 minutes or until they are golden. When golden and crisp, remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper to remove the excess oil. Serve hot with tamarind chutney or tomato ketchup.
Dahi Vada
Chilled Lentil Dumplings
These chilled lentil dumplings are perfect as an anytime snack and are often served on hot summer afternoons or balmy evenings in India. Feel free to sprinkle some Bombay mix or crushed nuts on top for that extra texture.
Serves 6
For the lentil dumplings
200g white urad dal
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, coarsely crushed
1 tablespoon golden raisins
2 tablespoons semolina
vegetable oil, for frying
For the yoghurt mixture
600ml plain yoghurt
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander
½ teaspoon asafoetida
2 teaspoons cumin seeds, roasted and coarsely crushed
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
To garnish
2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds
micro cress (optional)
Rinse the lentils in cold running water and soak in water overnight. Drain the lentils and blend, adding just enough water to blend to a mixture slightly thicker than double cream. Add the salt, black peppercorns, raisins and semolina. Whip together with a spoon until the batter is light and fluffy.
Heat the oil in a deep pan. Divide the batter into 12 round balls of equal size and deep fry them until golden brown in colour. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and soak the fried dumplings in a bowl of lukewarm water for 20 minutes until soft. Squeeze out the excess water and place them in a deep dish.
Beat the yoghurt with a whisk until smooth (add some water if required). Add the remaining ingredients and pour over the dumplings, covering them entirely. Place in the fridge for 30 minutes to chill.
Serve the lentil dumplings garnished with tamarind chutney, green coriander chutney and pomegranate seeds. Garnish with micro cress, if using, and serve chilled.
Kathal ki Subzi
Jackfruit Curry
One of the most underrated of all Indian fruits, as well as being the largest tree-borne fruit on the planet, jackfruit isn’t the most desirable of fruits in its ripened form. But in its raw (i.e. unripened) form, it is commonly used across India and is highly prized. This dish is a speciality in northern India during Holi. Raw jackfruit curry has a texture similar to meat in this curry.
Serves 4
500g raw jackfruit (available in Indian/Asian supermarkets; alternatively use two 500–600g cans of tinned jackfruit, drained)
2 tablespoons mustard oil
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon panch phoron
2 bay leaves
2 dried red chillies
1 green chilli, chopped
3 onions, finely chopped
2 tomatoes, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon salt
1 large potato, boiled, peeled and diced into 2.5cm cubes
½ teaspoon garam masala
Peel the jackfruit, remove the seeds and dice into 2.5cm cubes. Place them in a pan with enough water to cover, bring to the boil and cook for 30–40 minutes or until tender. Alternatively, boil them for 10 minutes in a pressure cooker (2 whistles). Drain and set aside.
Heat the mustard oil in a frying pan to smoking point. Add the cumin seeds, panch phoron, bay leaves, dried red chillies and green chilli in that order. Cover and leave for 3–4 minutes. As soon as the red chillies turn dark red, add the chopped onions. Cook over a low heat for 7–8 minutes until the onions are translucent.
Add the chopped tomatoes to the pan. Follow with the turmeric, red chilli powder, cumin, coriander and salt. Stir well and add the jackfruit cubes and boiled potato cubes. Cook over a low heat, covered, for 5–7 minutes, then add the garam masala, cook for another minute and then remove from the heat.
Serve with boiled rice.
Top: Subz Mutter Pulao
Bottom left: Khad Murgh
Bottom right: Aloo-Gobhi
Subz Mutter Pulao
Mixed Vegetable Pilau
In northern India, this vegetable pilau is a firm fixture on most menus at Holi. These are the vegetables that are in season at that time in India, but feel free to replace with whatever seasonal root vegetables you may be able to find. It’s just as flexible with a choice of dried fruits and nuts. My mother nearly always makes this dish when she’s entertaining, and she always serves it at Holi.
Serves 6–8
400g basmati rice
75g ghee
1 cinnamon stick
3 bay leaves
4 black cardamom pods
½ teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 red onions, finely sliced
100g cauliflower, cut into 1cm florets
1 carrot, diced into 1cm cubes
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
4 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon sugar
4 green chillies, slit lengthways
100g frozen petits pois or garden peas
2 tablespoons ready-to-eat raisins
2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander
2 tablespoons freshly chopped mint leaves
50g cashew nuts, deep fried and coarsely chopped
Wash the rice under cold running water, then soak in a bowl of water for 10 minutes. (Soaking the rice reduces its cooking time and helps to prevent the grains breaking up while cooking.)
Heat the ghee in a heavy-based pan. Add the cinnamon stick, bay leaves, cardamom and cloves and allow them to crackle for a minute or so, then add the cumin seeds. As they start to splutter, immediately add the sliced onions and sauté for 3–5 minutes until they begin to change colour. Add the cauliflower and carrot and stir to mix well, then reduce the heat and sweat for 2–3 minutes. Add the turmeric, salt, sugar and green chillies, and cook for another minute until the turmeric is thoroughly mixed in.
Add the drained rice and carefully stir to mix all the ingredients together. Be careful not to overwork the rice as the grains may break. After a minute or so, mix in the peas and raisins.
(At this stage, you could remove the rice from the heat and let it cool, then store in a refrigerator for a couple of days if you want to get ahead but not finish the pilau just yet.)
To finish the pilau, in a separate pan bring 900ml of water to the boil, keeping the pan covered with a lid. When the water is boiling, add it to the sautéed rice and vegetable mixture and bring back to the boil. Gently stir over a medium-high heat, remembering that too much handling may break the rice grains.
When the water is nearly absorbed and you can see small holes on the surface of the rice in the casserole, sprinkle over the coriander and mint, cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and reduce the heat to low for 8–10 minutes (alternatively, place in the oven at 120ºC/100ºC Fan/Gas Mark ½ for 10 minutes for the rice to finish cooking). Sprinkle with the fried cashew nuts before serving.
Another method of cooking is to follow the recipe up to the stage of adding peas and raisins, then pour the 900ml of water over the rice in the container, sprinkle with coriander and mint, cover with clingfilm, prick a few holes in the film and place in a microwave (800W) for 15 minutes. Allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes before serving.
Aloo-Gobhi Gajjar Mutter Tamatar ki Subzi
Vegetable Curry with Potatoes, Cauliflower, Carrots, Peas and Tomatoes
This simple vegetable curry is a firm fixture on the menu at Holi in most of north India. Thinking about it, it’s not only served at Holi but at most parties and celebrations. Maincrop potatoes, cauliflower, tomatoes and carrots are in season during Holi in India, but this dish can be made with turnips instead of the vegetables listed below, for example, or served with plenty of sauce to accompany rice. If the quantity of water is reduced, this semi-dry dish goes well with poories – my preference is for the drier version, as the flavours are more pronounced.
Serves 4
3 tablespoons vegetable or corn oil
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
3 onions, finely chopped
2 carrots, diced into 1cm cubes
1 large potato, peeled and diced into 1cm cubes
3 ripe tomatoes, blended to a purée or very finely chopped
2 green chillies, halved lengthways
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons salt
1 cauliflower, cut into 1cm florets
200g frozen peas or petits pois
4 black cardamom pods, seeds only
juice of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon garam masala
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander and/or dill
Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan, add the bay leaves and cumin seeds and let them crackle. Add the chopped onions and cook over a fairly high heat for 10–12 minutes until light golden brown.
Now add the carrots and potatoes and stir for 3–4 minutes. Stir in the puréed tomatoes, green chillies, ginger, spices and salt and cook for 8–10 minutes, until the oil begins to separate from the mixture at the sides of the pan. Add the cauliflower and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, then add the peas and cook for a further 3 minutes.
Pour in 450ml of water and cook until the vegetables are tender but still retain a little bite. Add the black cardamom seeds and check the seasoning, then stir in the lemon juice and garam masala and sprinkle with the chopped herbs. Cover and leave for 3–4 minutes, then serve hot with poories or any flatbread of your choice.
Jhinga 65
Shrimp Stir Fry with Curry Leaf and Mustard Seeds
Strictly speaking, this dish isn’t a Holi tradition but it’s increasingly making appearances on Holi party menus across the country. This is what most of south India ate in the 1980s before we discovered the joys of Indo-Chinese chilli shrimp. This recipe has been adapted from a military officer’s favourite Chicken 65. It’s proving just as popular made with prawns.
Serves 6–8 as a snack
400g small prawns
vegetable oil, for deep frying
1 tablespoon freshly chopped coriander
For the first marinade
2.5cm piece of ginger, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
3 teaspoons red chilli powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons yoghurt
For the second marinade
1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste
2 tablespoons cornflour
½ teaspoon sugar
1 egg
juice of ½ lemon
For the tempering
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
10 curry leaves
50g spring onions, chopped, or ½ red onion, chopped
2.5cm piece of ginger, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
a pinch of sugar
juice of ½ lemon
Mix together all the ingredients for the first marinade in a large bowl, add the prawns and set aside for 10 minutes.
Mix together all the ingredients for the second marinade, dip the prawn pieces in, then deep fry for 3–4 minutes at 160–170ºC until cooked and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper and keep warm.
Heat the tempering oil in a wok, add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for 30 seconds or so. Then add the curry leaves, onions, ginger, garlic and green chilli and sauté over a high heat for 1 minute.
Add the prawns to the pan and toss until the prawns hold all the tempering ingredients. Add the salt and sugar and cook over a high heat, stirring, for another 1–2 minutes until the sugar begins to caramelise but not burn. Keep the heat high and finish with a squeeze of lemon, correct the seasoning and serve immediately.
Garnish with finely chopped coriander and you’ll be mobbed in no time.
Murgi Lollipops
Chilli Chicken Wings
When I worked at The Oberoi in New Delhi, we would make huge quantities of these chicken lollipops (as we called them) for the coffee-shop menu. Coated in a spiced cornflour batter and deep fried, I find these the best for entertaining large numbers of guests. I like the way these become really crisp when fried, and they’re still easy enough to eat in spite of messy hands.
Serves 4
1kg chicken wings, skin on (preferably use only the one joint from the shoulder to the next joint)
100g cornflour
60g rice flour
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon chicken bouillon seasoning (optional)
vegetable oil, for deep frying
50g fresh coriander, chopped
barbecue sauce or hot garlic sauce, to serve
For the marinade
1½ teaspoons sea salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, coarsely cracked
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon crushed red chilli flakes
1 teaspoon crushed cumin seeds
1 teaspoon crushed coriander seeds
2 tablespoons dark soya sauce
juice of 1 lemon
Mix the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Add the chicken wings, mixing well, and set aside for at least an hour or overnight if possible.
Mix together the cornflour, rice flour, red chilli powder and chicken seasoning, if using, and set aside in a bowl.
Preheat the oil in the deep fryer to 170ºC.
Just before frying, mix the coriander into the marinated wings, then drop them into the cornflour mix, a few at a time, and roll them so they are dusted evenly and coated with the flour mix.
Deep fry in the hot oil for 7–8 minutes until the wings are cooked. Fry in small batches so the fryer isn’t crowded, repeating the process until all the chicken is fried, then drain on kitchen paper and serve with barbecue sauce or hot garlic sauce on the side.
Khad Murgh
Chicken Tikka Wrapped in Handkerchief Bread
This dish is inspired by how the nomadic tribes would cook chicken in the deserts of Rajasthan – tender marinated chicken wrapped in thin bread, baked for a few hours in a pit dug in the ground and covered with wood and cowpat and then devoured at the end of the day’s expedition. This would be an ideal barbecue dish as the smokiness from the charcoal brings out the flavour of the marinade.
Roomali refers to the bread’s resemblance to a handkerchief, so thin and so large, and is traditionally cooked on an inverted wok. The technique of making this is similar to that of making a pizza; just toss it in the air and watch it grow!
Serves 4 as a starter
500g boneless chicken legs, diced into 2.5cm cubes
8 bamboo skewers, soaked in water
For the first marinade
1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
juice of 1 lemon
2.5cm piece of green papaya, finely grated (or use 2 tablespoons freshly grated pineapple or juice)
For the second marinade
100ml Greek yoghurt
2 tablespoons wholegrain mustard
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon garam masala
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon freshly chopped coriander
2 tablespoons mustard oil (alternatively use vegetable oil mixed with 1 teaspoon English mustard)
For the roomali bread
150g chapati flour (fine ground wholemeal flour)
100g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
½ teaspoon salt
Mix together all the ingredients for the first marinade and rub it onto the chicken legs, massaging it well into the meat. Set aside.
Now mix together all the ingredients for the second marinade and add it to the chicken. Marinate for an hour or so in the fridge (you could marinate it overnight too).
Thread the chicken pieces onto skewers and cook on a hot barbecue for 10–15 minutes, turning regularly. Alternatively, preheat the oven to 180ºC/160ºC Fan/Gas Mark 4, place the chicken skewers on a baking tray and cook in the oven for 18–20 minutes, turning them regularly. If the chicken cooks but does not take colour, place under a very hot grill for a couple of minutes.
Meanwhile, make the bread. Mix together the 2 flours, salt and 125ml of water and knead to a soft smooth dough. (If you wish, you could use 120ml of spinach purée instead of the water to give a bright green bread.) Let the dough rest for 15 minutes, then divide it into 6 equal balls, cover them with clingfilm and let them rest for 5 minutes.
Dust your work surface with flour. Roll the dough in thin pancakes about 15cm in diameter, then enlarge the pancakes by tossing like a pizza base. This requires some practice – you usually get plenty of fails, but on the whole, it’s very entertaining! This recipe makes enough dough for 6 pancakes – allowing you a couple of practice runs if necessary!
Once the dough is as thin as you can possibly manage, turn it out onto an inverted wok if you have one or just lay it on a flat griddle over a high heat, and the bread cooks in a matter of seconds!
Preheat the oven to 180ºC/160ºC Fan/Gas Mark 4. Wrap a portion of cooked chicken in the thin bread to make a parcel, then wrap the entire thing in foil and bake for about 20 minutes until the bread is crisp. This is great served with pickled onions and a kachumbar salad (roughly chop onion, carrot and cucumber and mix together).
Khela Kalia
Holiday Meat Curry
This is a kind of celebration meat dish that can be prepared on any holiday, be it on account of Holi, Dussehra, any Bank Holiday or even a Sunday! In my ancestral village in Ballia, it is called Khela Kalia and in Bengal, there is a similar recipe that goes by the name Sunday Special Meat Curry (Robibarer Mangsho).
Serves 6
1kg goat meat, diced into 2.5cm cubes (usually on the bone)
6 tablespoons plain yoghurt
2 tablespoons mustard oil (optional)
1½ teaspoons cumin seeds
4–5 hot green chillies
60ml vegetable or corn oil
4 potatoes, peeled and halved
4 red onions, finely chopped
6 bay leaves
2 tablespoons ginger-garlic paste
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons ghee
2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander leaves
For the rustic garam masala
16 green cardamom pods
2 x 5cm cinnamon sticks
24 cloves
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
Start by marinating the meat with the yoghurt and mustard oil, if using, and set aside for about 30 minutes.
Make the rustic garam masala by grinding the spices together.
Blend the cumin seeds and green chillies together in a mortar and pestle to make a coarse paste.
Heat the oil in a large heavy-based pan, add the potatoes and gently fry for 3–5 minutes until coloured on the outside. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Add the chopped onions and the bay leaves to the same pan and sauté for 8–10 minutes until the onions start changing colour, then add the ginger-garlic paste and the cumin-chilli paste. Fry them with the onions for 3–5 minutes and when you see the oil separating, add the ground spices, red chilli powder and 2 tablespoons of the rustic garam masala. Continue to cook over a low heat, stirring continuously to make sure the spices do not burn.
When the oil starts to separate, add the marinated meat and salt. Slightly increase the heat and continue to bhunno (i.e. to sauté well, to heat the spices sufficiently so the oils are released from them) the meat for about 15–20 minutes until the meat appears browned at the edges and the juices have evaporated.
At this point, either transfer the meat to a pressure cooker or continue cooking in the same pan. Either way, add the potatoes, the remaining tablespoon of garam masala and the ghee, then stir to mix. Add 475ml of water if cooking in a pressure cooker, or 1 litre of water if cooking in the pan. Reduce the heat and cook until the meat is tender and the potatoes cooked through; this should take 15 minutes in a pressure cooker, or 45 minutes in a pan. Reduce the heat and simmer until the gravy is thick and rich.
Check the seasoning and serve immediately with either pulao or poories, and garnish with the chopped coriander leaves.
Clockwise from top left: Thandai; Shikanji; Makhana; Jinga 65; Murgi Lollipops
Imli ki Chutney
Tamarind Chutney
Makes 450ml
350ml tamarind pulp
1½ teaspoons red chilli powder
½ teaspoon salt
100g jaggery or brown sugar
50g pitted dates, chopped (optional)
½ teaspoon ground ginger
Mix all the ingredients together in a pan with 200ml of water. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, skimming intermittently to remove any scum that rises to the top. Cook until the sauce is thick and glossy, then allow to cool. Serve with samosas. This chutney keeps for a week in the fridge.
Dhaniyey ki Hari Chutney
Green Coriander Chutney
Makes 280ml
200g coriander leaves and stalks
40g mint leaves, stalks removed (optional)
6 garlic cloves
4 Thai green chillies, stalks removed
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon sugar
juice of 1 lemon
Blend together the herbs, garlic and chillies until a soft, spoonable consistency. Cover with the oil and store in the fridge until required.
To use, mix with the salt, sugar and lemon juice, check the seasoning and use as needed.
This chutney will keep in the fridge for 2–3 days, but once salt and lemon have been added, it is best used straight away. It can be served with chaats, or even kebabs from the tandoor.
Dahi ka Ghol
Yoghurt Dressing
Makes 320ml
250ml plain yoghurt
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted and then crushed
Mix the ingredients together with 75ml of water. Most chaats are served with a mélange of the 3 chutneys – yoghurt, tamarind and green coriander – in proportions suited to your individual preference.
Golgappa
Crisp Pastry, Spiced Potatoes and Chutneys
These golgappa or pani puris are possibly the most popular and recognised of all street food in India. The explosion of flavours when the semolina shell bursts in your mouth and the spiced liquid fills the space is an experience everyone should have at least once in their lives!
Serves 4
32 ready-made puris or golgappa (available online or in good Asian stores)
1 onion, finely chopped
50g sev
100g tamarind chutney (optional)
For the tangy green water
30g mint leaves, chopped
60g coriander leaves, chopped
2 green chillies, chopped
1cm piece of fresh ginger
juice of 1½ lemons
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon chaat masala
¼ teaspoon black salt
1 teaspoon salt (optional)
For the filling
200g boiled, peeled potatoes (approx. 3 medium potatoes)
75g boiled black chickpeas
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon roasted ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground chaat masala
2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander leaves, optional
1 teaspoon salt
To make the tangy green water, place the mint, coriander, green chillies, ginger and lemon juice in a grinder. Grind until it makes a smooth paste (if required, add 120ml of water while grinding). Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and add the sugar, chaat masala, black salt and 900ml of water. Stir with a large spoon to mix. Taste for the salt and add as required. Place the spiced water in a refrigerator for at least 1 hour before serving – it tastes best chilled.
To make the filling, mash the potatoes with half of the chickpeas, then season with the remaining filling ingredients. Mix through the remaining whole chickpeas and refrigerate to chill.
To assemble, take each puri and gently make a large hole in the centre of its top side. Stuff with the filling, sprinkle the chopped onion and sev over it and drizzle with a drop of tamarind chutney, if using. Dip each shell in the green water and pop into your mouth! Alternatively, fill the shells and serve with the chilled water in a jug on the side.
Thandhai
Spiced Milk Cooler
This is the base for the quintessential Holi drink bhaang. Originally supposed to be spiked with a paste of cannabis leaves, it is believed to be Shiva’s preferred drink. Without the cannabis, thandhai is still a great refreshing drink to be enjoyed on any hot day.
Serves 8–10
150g sugar
2 tablespoons ground almonds
1 tablespoon melon seeds
½ tablespoon fennel seeds
½ tablespoon white poppy seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
40g dried rose petals
250ml milk
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon rose water
Dissolve the sugar in 500ml of water and set aside.
Mix all the other ingredients, except the milk, cardamom and rose water, together and soak in 500ml of water. Keep aside for 2 hours.
Grind all soaked ingredients to a very fine paste using a mortar and pestle or electric blender.
Add another 500ml of water to the paste and pass it through a fine sieve or muslin to extract all the liquid. Add the sugar solution, milk, cardamom and rose water to the extracted liquid. Keep refrigerated and serve over cubes of ice.
Shikanji
Still Indian Lemonade
This cooling Indian drink is made during the summer. The salt and sugar help keep the body hydrated in the intense heat, and the mint and lemon add extra freshness and zing. You could use sparkling water if you prefer, for a not-so-still lemonade.
Serves 4–6
juice of 3 large lemons
20 mint leaves, crushed, plus a few whole leaves reserved to garnish
2 teaspoons roasted cumin, crushed in a mortar and pestle
75g sugar
1 teaspoon rock salt
ice cubes, to serve
In a bowl mix together the lemon juice, crushed mint leaves, crushed roasted cumin, sugar and salt and stir until the sugar dissolves. Pour over 750ml of water and mix well. Leave to infuse for 30 minutes, then strain through a fine sieve and refrigerate until chilled.
When you’re ready to serve, place a few ice cubes in each glass, scatter some mint leaves on top and divide the lemon drink between the glasses. If you like, top the drinks with soda water or fizzy water.
Malpua
Deep-fried Indian Pancakes
Pua (short for malpua) is something my mum makes each year at Holi, and whenever she is feeling happy! Commercially sold malpuas have reduced milk, cream and many such luxury ingredients to make them tasty, but I still much prefer this homely version over the shop-bought ones. I have an early memory of a very large kadhai of oil being used for frying both poories and malpuas for a very large gathering at Holi. Sometimes the cooks would accidentally drain off the malpuas in the tray for poories… This was quite a happy accident for those sitting down to eat at that time, as they would receive sweet malpuas instead of plain poories! This is such a simple recipe, ready in literally no time, so give this a go.
Serves 4–6
250g plain flour
200g sugar
enough milk to make a smooth pouring batter (about 500ml)
½ teaspoon green cardamom powder
2 tablespoons golden raisins
½ banana, mashed (optional)
vegetable oil, for deep frying
Mix together all the ingredients (except the oil) to make a smooth batter, then set aside in the fridge for 2–3 hours to allow the flavours to develop.
Pour the oil in a wok to the depth of around 5cm and heat to medium-hot.
Mix the batter using a spoon, then pour a small ladle full of the batter into medium-hot oil to fry for 3–4 minutes until the edges are crisp and the middle of the pancake is still soft. Turn over halfway through the cooking when the underside is golden and crisp. Drain, using a slotted spoon. Let it cool for a minute or so, and then serve with ice cream of your choice or on its own.
This mixture will make approximately 20 pancakes.
Christians carry palm fronds during a Palm Sunday procession, marking the beginning of Holy Week and the last week of lent. (Mujeeb Faruqui/Hindustan Times/Getty)