Vivek Singh’s Indian Festival Feasts

Who are Parsis? My good friend Parizad Mody Katyal was often asked this by her children, who are growing up in Dubai and didn’t understand their religion, its history or its rituals. Somewhat exasperated by the intrigue that surrounded the Parsis and their rituals, Parizad took it upon herself to learn the family way and the recipes, laying out a feast for her children at Navroze – a traditional Parsi festival – so she could explain it better to the kids.

Literally translated, Parsi means anyone from Persia, or all things Persian, but it is not so in this case. In India, Parsi or Parsee is a term colloquially applied only to those of Zoroastrian faith who are of Iranian descent but fled Iran from the fear of persecution when Islam was on the rise. As they were traders with India for years, and were familiar with the sea routes, the first boats arrived in Udwada in Gujarat. When the chief of the Parsis went to the local king, Jadhav Rana, asking for shelter, the Rana motioned to a bowl of milk full to the brim, symbolically suggesting that the kingdom was up to capacity and couldn’t accommodate any more people. He expressed his regret and suggested the Parsis looked elsewhere. The Parsi chief respectfully asked for a spoon of sugar to be brought. When the sugar was presented, he slowly added the sugar to the milk and mixed it in. The milk didn’t spill over, suggesting that just as the milk was sweetened with sugar but didn’t spill over, the Parsis would sweeten the kingdom, and respectfully be absorbed in the land without necessarily being a burden on anyone. The Rana agreed to let the Parsis stay. This point in history is one of the greatest stories that deserves to be told. Particularly relevant today, this is a story of migration, of seeking refuge and of assimilation in society. It’s also one of acceptance, of adapting and one of the best examples of successful integration anywhere in the world.

The three central principles of an ideal Parsi life are good thoughts, good words and good deeds.

The two most important Parsi festivals fall one after the other, and so we’ll look at both together here. The first part of the prominent celebration is sometimes referred to as Navroz-I-Khas, Greater Noruz, namely the New Year or just Navroze.

Every year, just before the New Year, each Parsi family undertakes ten holy days full of prayers for the deceased. This period is called Mukhtar, a poignant time for most families, where they get together and pray for the souls they have lost, remembering them and their deeds and what they may have liked or not liked. During this period prayers are offered three times a day at the Akhiyari (fire temple) in remembrance of the deceased, and food is distributed amongst people who work in the Akhiyari. At this time, prayers are often said in thanksgiving too.

The last day of the ten days of Mukhtar is called Pateti, the day after this being New Year: the eleventh day, otherwise known as Navroze, which is a holy day for those in the Zoroastrian faith. Everyone showers, wears new clothes, houses are cleaned from top to bottom to symbolise purity of mind, body and environment and decorations are brought out. Houses are often decorated with jasmine and roses, with flower garlands swinging from doors, and rangoli, colourful chalk patterns, are drawn around houses. Tables are decorated and laid out with a copy of the gathas, a lit candle or lamp, ceramic plate with wheat or beans, a small bowl with silver coins, flowers, painted eggs, sweets, rose water and a goldfish to symbolise prosperity, wealth, productivity, sweetness and happiness.

Having spent the last ten days remembering those that have passed away, Navroze is for enjoying blessings and looking ahead with optimism. People often make resolutions for the future – ways in which they can improve the lives of others and themselves. The day frequently culminates with people going to see a comedy play, and then gathering at someone’s house for more food and to sing old Parsi songs.

Swiftly following on from Navroze, the Parsis celebrate Khordad Sal, the birth of the Prophet Zoroaster, founder of their faith in ancient Iran approximately 3,500 years ago. When the Parsis first landed in India, Jadhav Rana allowed them to stay in the country on a few conditions, one of which is that they would only marry within the faith. As a result, the Parsi community is very tight-knit and their celebrations bring families together. However, community is a central theme of Zoroastrianism, so guests are invited to participate in the celebrations. Any guest entering a home over Navroze or Khordad Sal will be greeted by a glass of falooda, a sweet and chilled vermicelli flavoured drink with rose essence.

Unlike most other religions which base their festivals, principles and celebrations on some kind of exercise of sacrifice, self-control or abstinence, the Parsi knows nothing of these things. If anything, Parsi celebrations are about unadulterated indulgence, hospitality and rejoicing. A true celebration of life and everything that is good about it.

A great feast is prepared to mark the occasion, and often features sweet treats (said to bring luck), such as Parsi ravo or Parsi sev. Food eaten at Khordad Sal is very similar to the dishes enjoyed at Navroze, and dhan dar patio, a simple yellow dal served with spicy pickle, is often seen on the table. As Parsis are non-vegetarian, the festival food is varied and includes meat and fish too.

A Parsi, or Zoroastrian, priest explains the significance of the angels to a young girl at a Parsi fire temple in Ahmedabad at Navroze. (Sam Panthaky/AFP/Getty)

The Parsis believe in laying out a good spread and in the event that there isn’t a great choice of ingredients available, they will often prepare the same ingredient in two or three different forms to offer a wide choice to their guests. They may have a steamed fish on the menu as well as a fish pulao, but it will not be considered too much to offer yet another fish curry. Just in case…

Make a paste of the garlic, chilli powder, cumin seeds and vinegar either in a blender or using a mortar and pestle.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a pan or wok, add the onions and sauté for 8–10 minutes until brown. Add the paste and remaining salt and cook while stirring for 2-3 minutes. Add the sugar and passata and simmer over a low heat for 5 minutes. Then add the marinated fish, cover and cook for 6–10 minutes until the fish is cooked. Check the seasoning and serve with steamed rice.

This fish pulao is a celebratory dish served at the Parsi table for their new year celebrations. Traditionally pomfret would be used, but this dish could work just as well with monkfish or any other firm white fish.

Grind together all the paste ingredients using as little water as possible in a blender to get a thick, smooth paste.

Sprinkle the fish with 1 teaspoon of the salt and set aside to marinate for 5 minutes.

Heat the ghee or oil in a heavy-based pan, add the onions and sauté over a high heat for 8–10 minutes until brown, then add the ground paste and the remaining salt, and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the drained rice, coconut milk and half the chopped coriander and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for a few minutes, then add the hot water or stock. Cover and cook for 5 minutes and then add the fish and cook for a further 7–10 or so, covered, until the rice and fish are cooked.

Top left: Dhansak
Middle: Salli Boti
Top right: Macchi nu Pulao
Bottom right: straw potatoes (for Salli Boti)

Dhansak is very popular in Britain – it’s a cornerstone of the institution that the curry houses are in British life. Although its known more as a ‘genre’ rather than a dish (lamb dhansak, chicken dhansak, prawn dhansak … you get the drift), the original is made with lamb and is one of the few examples of dishes that use lentils, vegetables and meat all together in one dish. There is something for everyone here, and therefore dhansak appears on celebratory menus on most Parsi occasions.

Place the lamb, all the lentils, aubergine, pumpkin, tomatoes, sliced onions, potato and salt in a large pressure cooker. Add 750ml of water and pressure cook for 10 minutes (4 whistles) or until the lamb is tender and the lentils and vegetables are cooked.

If you don’t have a pressure cooker, use 1.5 litres water and cook for approximately 40 minutes in a large, lidded pan until the meat is tender and the lentils and vegetables are cooked and almost mashed.

In the meantime, heat the vegetable oil in a separate wok or pan. Add the chopped onions and cook for 8–10 minutes until they are browned but not burnt. Add the ginger-garlic paste and cook, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes, then add the dhansak masala and cook for another 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Once the lamb and lentils are cooked, remove the lamb pieces and set aside. Blend the lentils to make a smooth paste. If it’s still thin, add to the pan with browned onions and spices and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the lamb back into the sauce and cook until the curry is thick and almost the consistency of porridge.

Correct the seasoning if required and finish with the sugar, fenugreek leaves and slit green chillies. It can be served with rice but is best eaten with chapatis.

This rather unctuous, deep, rich and spicy curry can be made with either lamb or chicken. It is also one of the headline dishes that have come to represent the cooking of the community as well as an expression of their passion for flavour and texture. It’s a hero dish in its own right, but even in a crowd of several others a good salli boti (or salli murghi if using chicken) is a standout dish.

800g lamb leg or shoulder, diced into 2.5cm cubes (or 1kg chicken, cut into 10–12 pieces on the bone)

Grind together all the paste ingredients in a mortar and pestle or a blender to make a smooth paste.

Heat the oil in a deep heavy-based pan, add the onions and ginger-garlic paste and cook over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes. As the onions soften (no colouring needed), add the lamb and cook over a high heat for 15–20 minutes or until the lamb turns brown and is coloured on the outside. Add the salt and the spice paste and cook for another 2–3 minutes, then add the tomatoes and cook for another 5 or so minutes.

Now lower the heat, add 350ml of water, cover and cook for 20 minutes until the lamb is tender. Cut the soaked apricots into 2 or 3 pieces each and add to the cooked lamb. Check the seasoning and finish with jaggery or sugar. Sprinkle over the coriander, remove from the heat and keep warm.

In the meantime, wash the matchstick potatoes in 2 changes of water to get rid of excess starch, then dry on kitchen paper. Heat the oil in a deep fryer or pan to 160–170ºC and fry the potatoes until they are crisp and golden. Remove from the oil, drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle with salt and red chilli powder. Use to garnish the lamb and apricot curry.

This is the customary rice dish to be served at most celebrations, with vegetables, with kebabs or on its own.

Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan, then add the cinnamon stick and sugar. Stir continuously over a low heat for 3–4 minutes or until the sugar caramelises but doesn’t burn – a medium caramel is what you are looking for.

Next add the salt and 800ml of water and bring it to the boil. Add the drained rice, stir to mix and let it come to the boil again. When the water is mostly absorbed and you can see the bubbles breaking on the surface of rice, reduce the heat, give it one more stir, then cover with a lid and cook over a low heat for 10–12 minutes.

Remove the lid to check the rice is cooked. Fluff up the rice so the grains separate, then add the crisp fried onions to garnish generously and serve.

The Parsis are very partial to a falooda – a chilled, sweet, perfumed, rose-flavoured milk with soaked basil seeds. The pretty pink drink may not be for everyone as one could be put off by the bright pink, but it is a firm favourite at most Parsi celebrations, especially with the children.

Soak the basil seeds in 120ml of water for 15–30 minutes, then strain and set aside.

Mix the chilled milk with the ice and rose syrup, stirring very well so that the rose syrup is completely dissolved in the milk. Add ½ tablespoon of the sugar and taste, adding more as required. Either way, sugar is optional and you may wish to omit it if the rose syrup is sweet enough.

Next, add the rose water. Finally add the drained basil seeds, stir again and pour the rose milk in to glasses. Serve garnished with flaked almonds and rose petals, if you wish.

Although rava is a term loosely used to describe semolina all over the country, this is yet another of the hundreds of different versions of semolina halwa or sooji halwa. My mother also makes semolina halwa and it’s a favourite of mine, but this Parsi version is as different from hers as anything can be! The use of dried fruits and nuts is a Persian influence, as is the use of aromatics like rose water.

Heat 80g of the ghee in a wok and fry the almonds until they just start to turn golden; add the raisins and continue until the raisins puff up, then remove with a slotted spoon and drain. Set aside.

Add the semolina to the same pan and sauté over a low heat for 5–7 minutes until a roasted aroma emanates and the semolina resembles the consistency of sand, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and stir in 125ml of water. Return to the heat and cook for 2–3 minutes, then add the sugar and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Mix together the eggs and milk and add to the semolina mix, stirring to mix well. Return to the heat and cook over a low heat for 3–4 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent the egg mixture curdling.

Slowly add the remaining ghee, a little at a time until it is incorporated and the mixture thickens. Mix in the ground cardamom, nutmeg and rose water.

Even though the name gives it away as being a favourite on Parsi wedding menus, this dessert is served at most celebratory meals and is the highlight of the meal for many, especially children.

First roast the almond flakes under a grill or in a dry frying pan for 2–3 minutes over a medium heat, then let them cool.

Boil the milk and sugar in a pan over a low heat until reduced to about half of their original volume (approximately 575ml), then let it cool.

Add the beaten eggs and the 3 yolks, vanilla extract, rose water and green cardamom. Mix well and pour the mixture into a baking dish with a 25cm diameter. Sprinkle with the grated nutmeg and roasted almonds, then bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes until the custard is set and the top is golden brown.

Remove from the oven, allow to cool and refrigerate until you are ready to serve. You can serve this whole at the table or cut into pieces and serve.

Top left: Lagan nu Custard
Middle: Rava

Girls perfom a ‘Thiruvathira kali’ as part of the Onam celebrations. (Raveendran/AFP/Getty)