An idol of the Hindu goddess Durga is carried to the River Ganges. (Daniel Berehulak/Getty
Durga Puja and Dussehra
The celebrations of Durga Puja and Dussehra are closely linked to Navratri. One of the largest festivals celebrated by Hindus in India, Navratri surrounds worship of the Hindu deity Durga and the last four days of Navratri are observed as Durga Puja. On the final day, worshippers take huge figures of the idol of Goddess Durga to the streets in a procession and there is plenty of dancing and a festive atmosphere. Although it is very much a religious festival, Durga Puja is celebrated with much revelry in comparison to other sacred events. Rather than a focus on fasting and prayers, feasting and socialising into the early hours are at the centre of this festival. Durga Puja is particularly spectacular in Bengal, but both in and outside Bengal, you can see representations of Durga Puja, with community congregations in huge decorated pandals (tents).
Bengalis from all over the world return home to celebrate Durga Puja and usually stay for several weeks until Kali Puja, which is three weeks after Durga Puja. The period in between is commonly referred to as Bijoya, or Victory – a time when everyone visits their friends and family to exchange gifts and sweets and generally entertain and be entertained. Not going to visit a close friend or a relative in this period is the same as dropping someone from your Christmas card list in the UK!
Growing up, I had friends who would receive new clothes and gifts during the festival, and even though my parents didn’t really celebrate Durga Puja, we’d all get new outfits and toys then, so we didn’t feel left out.
In many parts of the country, the tenth day of Navratri is celebrated as Dussehra. There are varying interpretations of Dussehra, with northern parts of India celebrating it as the Day of Victory – Rama’s victory over Ravana. Often celebrations in most of north India and central Indian states culminate with the burning of the effigy of Ravana. North Indian towns and city squares turn into make-shift street theatres where local residents participate in performing ramlila – the enactment of the various scenes from Ramayana.
Whatever the legend, the best part of Durga Puja for me was going to different family friends’ homes each night and enjoying the feast that was laid out. Dishes would include bhapa with lobster or king prawns, kosha mangsho and murgh makhan masala (chicken butter masala), and I also remember the khichuri served as a bhog or an offering to the Goddess, then distributed among the devotees at the pandal when the puja for the day finished. The fervour and passion during this festival in Bengal is quite unmatched and the atmosphere electric. I can’t help but notice how many of the dishes I remember for Dussehra or Durga Puja have a Bengali influence and how, even after all these years, I haven’t been able to shake it off!
An idol of the Hindu goddess Durga is carried to the River Ganges. (Daniel Berehulak/Getty
On the night of Dussehra effigies of Ravana are set alight and used as part of fireworks displays. (Narinda Nanu/AFP/Getty)
Bhuna Khichuri
Temple-style Kedgeree
Bhuna Khichuri is the bare basic rice dish which is offered as a bhog or prasad (offering) to the Goddess Durga; it’s simple but the most important of all offerings. This dish is cooked in almost every home, and also in communal neighbourhood celebrations. Every family, irrespective of class, creed or colour, is given the option either to eat the food as a meal or to carry it back home as a token of the puja.
Serves 4–6 as an accompaniment
100g basmati rice
75g split yellow moong lentils
4 tablespoons ghee or melted butter, plus extra for drizzling
½ teaspoon asafoetida
1 bay leaf or cinnamon leaf
3cm stick of cinnamon
3 cloves
2 green cardamom pods
1 whole dried red chilli, broken, stalk and seeds discarded
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
2.5cm piece of ginger, grated
1–2 green chillies, chopped
2 teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons ground turmeric
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
chopped vegetables, such as 60g carrots, 85g cauliflower and 2 tablespoons frozen peas (optional)
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon roasted cumin powder (optional)
juice of ½ lemon
1 tablespoon freshly chopped coriander
Wash the rice in 2–3 changes of water until the water runs clear. Drain, spread it out on a tray and let it dry for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, dry roast the yellow moong lentils in a frying pan over a low-medium heat for 3–5 minutes until it turns deep golden and fragrant, stirring continuously. Take care and keep stirring as the lentils should not turn brown and black – some might have brown spots and that is okay. Once fragrant, remove the pan from the heat, tip the roasted lentils onto a plate, spread it out and let it cool.
Wash the cooled lentils in several changes of water until the water runs clear.
Heat the ghee in a heavy-based lidded pan over a medium-high heat. Add the asafoetida, bay leaf, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom. Let the spices sizzle and crackle, then add the dried red chilli and cumin seeds and stir to heat them evenly. After a few seconds, as the spices become fragrant, add the grated ginger and almost immediately add the rice, lentils and green chillies. Add the salt and turmeric, red chilli powder and vegetables, if using, and toss well until the ghee and the spices coat the lentils. Lower the heat, stir in the sugar and cook, stirring constantly so the contents do not stick to the bottom of the pan, for 5–8 minutes.
Add 1.6 litres of hot water; bring the water to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and cook for 15 minutes until most of the water from the surface has evaporated. Now cover the pot with a tightly fitting lid and cook until the lentils and rice have softened and are cooked (after adding water, they will take about 20 minutes to be cooked through). Although the usual khichdi is supposed to be almost mushed, this bhuna khichuri has less liquid and the grains of the rice and the lentils should remain distinguishable.
Serve warm with a drizzle of ghee or melted butter and a sprinkle of roasted cumin powder, if using. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice and scatter over the chopped coriander.
Kankrar Chop
Bengali-style Crab Cakes
I have good memories of eating these as a child in West Bengal. These crab cakes are slightly uncommon due to their use of beetroot and raisins, but nevertheless they make a great little snack for Durga Puja.
Serves 4
300g cod fillet, skinned
For cooking the fish
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon black onion seeds
For the fish cakes
3 tablespoons vegetable or corn oil
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 large onion, chopped
1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
200g white crab meat
1cm piece of ginger, finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 large beetroot, boiled and diced into 5mm cubes
1 teaspoon Bengali garam masala
1 tablespoon raisins
2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander
For crumbing
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon black onion seeds
200g dried breadcrumbs, for coating
25g plain flour
2 eggs, beaten
vegetable oil, for deep frying
Cut the cod fillet into 4–5 even-sized pieces. Place them in a pan and add 100ml of water. Add the salt, turmeric, fennel seeds and onion seeds. Lightly poach over a medium heat, with the lid on, for about 5–6 minutes, until the fish is cooked. Remove and pat the fish dry on kitchen paper, then gently flake the fish using a fork and set aside. Reserve the liquid and reduce by half to make a concentrate.
To make the fish cakes, heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the bay leaves and cumin seeds and when they release their flavour, add the onion and sauté until it turns golden brown. Add the ginger-garlic paste followed by the turmeric, chilli powder, sugar and salt and cook for 1 minute. Add the crab meat and sauté for 1 minute until mixed well, but take care not to break up the crab meat too much. Reduce the heat, add the flaked fish, ginger, green chillies and the diced beetroot and stir gently to mix them with the spices. Add the reserved cooking liquid. Sprinkle over the garam masala, add the raisins and coriander and mix well. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Divide the mixture into 8 portions and shape into balls. Mix the fennel and onion seeds into the breadcrumbs. Dust the balls with the flour, dip in the beaten eggs and roll them in the seasoned breadcrumbs until thoroughly coated. Flatten slightly and deep fry in a deep fryer or a deep saucepan for 2 minutes, until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper and serve straight away with salad and lime pickle mayonnaise.
Top: Achari Nimbu Mayo
Bottom: Kankrar Chop
Bhapa Lobster
Lobster with Coconut, Ginger and Chilli
The day after Dussehra (the tenth day of venerations for goddess Durga), the high society in Kolkata just kicks into action and with it begins a series of parties, invitations and celebrations. The period between Durga Puja and Kali Puja (otherwise known as Bijoya) is Bengal’s equivalent of Christmas, the only difference being that the revelries go on for three weeks! If there is such a thing as making a statement or an impression with a dish, then this is the one! The use of coconut, mustard, chilli and ginger creates an interesting play of flavours, with the sweetness of lobster, cooked in its own steam, and coconut balanced by the heat from the chilli and ginger and the pungency of the mustard oil.
Serves 6
6 lobsters, about 450g each
75ml mustard oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
50g coriander, finely chopped
1 teaspoon garam masala
For the sauce
60g yellow mustard seeds, soaked overnight in just enough water to cover, then drained and blended to a paste with 25ml white vinegar
250ml thick coconut milk
75ml Greek yoghurt
6 green chillies, slit lengthways
5cm piece of ginger, cut into matchstick-sized pieces
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste
¼ teaspoon turmeric
Slit each lobster in two lengthways, keeping the head and shell on. Clean and dry with kitchen paper, then remove the meat from the shell and claws and dice into 2cm cubes. Reserve the shells.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC/160ºC Fan/Gas Mark 4.
Whisk together all the sauce ingredients and set aside.
Heat the mustard oil in a pan to smoking point, then let it cool (this reduces the pungency from the mustard oil). Reheat the oil and add the black mustard seeds. Once the seeds crackle, add the sauce mixture and bring to the boil, whisking regularly over a low heat and taking care not to split the mixture. Once the sauce has boiled, reduce the heat and simmer for 6–8 minutes, then remove from the heat. The sauce should be thick and coat the back of a spoon.
In a separate pan, mix together the diced lobster meat and claws with three-quarters of the sauce, reserving the rest.
Place the lobster shells on a baking tray and fill the shells with the lobster meat coated with the sauce. Spoon the remaining sauce on top, cover with foil and bake in the preheated oven for 6–8 minutes, then place under a hot grill for 2–3 minutes.
Sprinkle with chopped coriander and garam masala and serve immediately with steamed rice.
Macher Dim Bora
Fried Fish Cutlets
This fish pakora is an unusual dish, often served as a snack or as a part of a meal at Durga Puja. Traditionally, thinly cut deboned rohu, or rui (a kind of Bengali carp) would be used, but feel free to replace it with cod or perch.
Serves 4
600g cod or perch fillets, shredded into thin strips
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 green chillies, finely chopped
2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander
2 tablespoons rice flour
120g besan or chickpea flour
juice of 1 lime
mustard oil, for frying
chaat masala, to sprinkle (optional)
Mix the strips of fish in a bowl with the onion, green chillies, ginger, salt, chilli powder and coriander.
Mix together the rice flour and chickpea flour, add the lime juice and the fish mixture and let the mixture sit for 10–15 minutes. Shape the mixture into 8 equal flat, round patties.
Heat the mustard oil in a shallow frying pan to smoking point, then reduce the heat to medium. Shallow fry the patties for 3 minutes on each side until golden brown on both sides and cooked.
Serve hot sprinkled with chaat masala, if using, and with a simple salad of chopped red onions and cucumber.
Paka Macher Pulao
Mature Fish Pulao
This dish in Bengal would be made with large bekti or hilsa, but any large fish would do. In Europe you could use salmon, halibut or a large monkfish.
Serves 4
600g fish, cut into 4cm dice
2 onions, ½ onion blended to a purée and the rest thinly sliced
2 teaspoons garlic paste
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
100ml vegetable oil
2 tablespoons ghee
4 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
400g basmati rice, washed in 2 changes of water
2.5cm piece of ginger, cut into strips
800ml hot water or chicken stock
1 teaspoon sugar
a pinch of saffron (optional), soaked in a few teaspoons hot water
1 teaspoon ground garam masala
Marinate the fish with the blended onion, 1 teaspoon of the garlic paste, ½ teaspoon of the salt and the turmeric and set aside for 5 minutes.
Heat the vegetable oil in a shallow frying pan and slowly fry the fish in 2 batches until light brown, turning over after about 2–3 minutes to cook evenly and on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Heat the ghee in a heavy-based lidded pan. Add the bay leaves, cardamom and sliced onions. Sauté over a high heat for 3–4 minutes until the onions are translucent and just turning soft. Add the remaining garlic paste, fry for 1 minute, then add the rice and ginger and cook for 3–4 minutes until the rice is roasted and evenly coated in the spices and ghee.
Add the hot water or stock, the sugar and the remaining salt and cover the pan. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. After 6–8 minutes, when the water has reduced to the level of the rice and holes appear on the surface, place the fried fish over the surface of the rice and pour over any leftover oil from frying the fish. Add the saffron water, if using, and the garam masala, then cover the pan and place over a very low heat for 15–20 minutes until the rice is cooked, all the water is absorbed and the grains are fluffy. (The last stage may be carried out in an oven at 180ºC/160C Fan/Gas Mark 4.)
Top left: Macher Dim Bora
Bottom left: Bhapa Lobster
Top right: Panthar Ghuguni
Bottom right: Kosha Mangsho
Kashmiri Keema Kofta
Dried Fruit and Meatball Curry
These koftas could be from anywhere, and in fact no one in Kashmir recognises the dish as particularly Kashmiri, but we in the rest of the country call them Kashmiri due to the use of dried fruits and nuts along with the mince. The use of crisp fried onions to add texture and sweetness to the kofta is a nuanced technique originally employed in the cooking of palaces.
Serves 4
For the koftas
600g lean minced lamb
1 onion, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons salt
4 dried apricots, finely chopped
4 dried figs, finely chopped
2 tablespoons roasted cashew nuts, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons salted roasted pistachios, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon garam masala
1½ teaspoons red chilli powder
2 tablespoons crisp fried onions
4 dry-roasted cloves, finely ground
1 tablespoon each of freshly chopped mint and green coriander
2 tablespoons ghee or clarified butter
3 tablespoons roasted chana dal (daria dal), ground
For the sauce
4 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus extra for frying
2 bay leaves
4 cloves
1 teaspoon royal black cumin seeds (or regular cumin if royal not available)
3 onions, finely chopped
5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated using a microplane
4 garlic cloves, finely grated using a microplane
2 tablespoons freshly grated coconut
4 large ripe tomatoes, puréed
1½ teaspoons red chilli powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon garam masala
3 green chillies, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
325g plain yoghurt
1 teaspoon rose water or screw pine essence
pinch of saffron (optional)
2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander
Prepare the koftas by mixing together the mince with the remaining ingredients. Chill for 15–20 minutes, then knead to form a smooth mix. Divide the mince into 40–50g size balls (slightly smaller than golf balls).
Heat the oil for frying in a heavy-based pan and sear the koftas over a medium heat for a minute or so, turning to colour them evenly on all sides. When browned on all sides, drain on kitchen paper. (You can either finish cooking the koftas in an oven preheated to 180ºC/160ºC Fan/Gas Mark 4 for 4–6 minutes or simply simmer them in the sauce – see below.)
Heat the oil for the sauce in a heavy-based pan and add the bay leaves and cloves. Let them sizzle in hot oil for 30 seconds, then add the royal cumin seeds. As they crackle and pop, add the chopped onions and sauté for 8–10 minutes until golden in colour, then add the ginger and garlic and sauté for 2–3 minutes. Add the coconut and stir for 2 minutes, then add the tomato purée, all the ground spices, the green chillies and the salt. Cook well over a moderate heat for 10–15 minutes until the oil begins to separate from the masala.
Add the yoghurt and 120ml of water to the cooking spices. Mix well and cook for a further 2 minutes. Now add the prepared koftas to the gravy and fold in very gently to coat on all sides. Finish the dish with either rose water or screw pine essence and saffron and infuse for 2 more minutes, then remove from the heat. Garnish the dish with chopped fresh coriander. Serve hot with rice or chapatis.
Kosha Mangsho
Lamb Cooked in Rich Onion Sauce
This is a lamb curry from West Bengal, also popular in the state of Bihar and neighbouring areas. The term kosha literally translated means ‘tightened’, which refers to the drying up of spices to give a rich, finished product. It is often served with a soft khichri (the original kedgeree) on a cold day, and the combination is both comforting and invigorating.
Serves 4 if the only main meat dish, or 6 as part of a selection of curries
1kg leg of lamb, diced into 2.5cm cubes
2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons ginger-garlic paste
1 heaped tablespoon red chilli powder
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
50ml mustard oil
50g ghee or vegetable oil
3 bay leaves
5 black peppercorns
3 black cardamom pods
4 dried red chillies, each broken into 2–3 pieces
3 blades of mace
6 large red onions, finely chopped
5 large tomatoes, puréed
250ml of water or lamb stock
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons Bengali garam masala
1 tablespoon finely chopped coriander
juice of ½ lemon (optional)
Mix the meat with 1 teaspoon of the salt, the ginger-garlic paste, red chilli powder, cumin and coriander and set aside.
Heat the mustard oil in a deep pan and bring to smoking point, then add the ghee or vegetable oil (this will lower the temperature so when the spices are added, they don’t instantly burn). Next, add the whole spices and let them crackle for 30 seconds or so. Add the chopped onions and cook over a low heat, stirring constantly, for 10–12 minutes until they turn light brown. Take care to stir the onions continually to prevent them colouring or cooking unevenly.
Next, add the marinated lamb and cook over a high heat for about 20 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add the puréed tomatoes and remaining salt and cook, still over a high heat, for a further 15 minutes. Next add the water or stock, reduce the heat and simmer with a lid on for 20 minutes or until the lamb is tender.
When the meat is tender, if the sauce still looks quite wet, increase the heat and reduce the sauce further until it becomes thick and coats the lamb.
Correct the seasoning with salt if required and stir in the sugar to balance the spiciness of the dish. Finally, stir in the Bengali garam masala. Sprinkle generously with freshly chopped coriander and a squeeze of lemon if you like, and serve with poories or a bread of your choice.
Panthar Ghuguni
Lamb Mince and Chickpea Curry
This dish is a firm favourite on Bijoya Dashami – the tenth and final day of celebrations during Durga Puja.
Serves 4
4 tablespoons mustard oil
2 onions, finely sliced
1 potato, peeled and diced into 1.5cm cubes
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
3 tomatoes, finely chopped
1 tablespoon ginger paste
2 teaspoons chilli powder
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
500g lamb mince
4 tablespoons yoghurt
240g can of chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 teaspoon Bengali garam masala
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon freshly chopped coriander
Heat the mustard oil in a wok, add the onions and cook over a high heat for 5 minutes until golden, then add the diced potato, half the salt, the turmeric and the tomatoes. Continue cooking over a medium heat for 5–6 minutes while stirring to get the onions to an even brown colour.
Add the ginger paste, chilli powder, cumin and coriander, the remaining salt and the lamb mince, and cook over a high heat for 10 minutes or so until the fat begins to separate and the mince starts to brown at the edges. If needed, add just a little water if you feel the potatoes aren’t completely cooked.
Reduce the heat to low, add the yoghurt and cook, covered, for 5 minutes. Add the chickpeas and cook over a high heat until very little gravy remains. Correct the seasoning. Finish with ground garam masala, sprinkle over the chopped green chillies and coriander and serve.
Vadai
Rice Flour and Urad Lentil Bread
This wheat-free, gluten-free bread is a must-try. Maharashtrians make a spicy chicken or goat dish at Dussehra and have this bread with it. I find it works just as well with Kosha Mangsho or even a dal.
Makes 12–15
100g white urad dal
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
10g black peppercorns
500g rice flour
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon freshly chopped coriander
2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1½ teaspoons ground turmeric
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
15g salt
oil, for frying
Mix together the urad dal, coriander seeds, fenugreek seeds, fennel seeds and peppercorns, and grind to make powder. Mix the powder with the rest of the ingredients, except the oil.
Add 480ml warm water to the mixture and mix to form a soft dough, then set aside for 20–30 minutes.
Place a length of clingfilm on your work surface, place the dough on top and divide into 12–15 small balls. Cover with another piece of clingfilm and press down on the dough, until the discs are now about 5mm thick.
Heat the oil to 160–170ºC.
Remove the clingfilm, lift the flattened dough discs carefully, and place in the hot oil. Deep fry until the balls have puffed up and turned golden on the underside, then turn over and fry the other side until golden; this should take 30 seconds on each side.
Children light candles as part of traditional Diwali celebrations. (Suvankar Sen/Pacific Press/LightRocket via Getty)
