© 2018 by Rob Firing
Compound butter isn’t just flavoured butter (like garlic butter) but exquisitely and expressly flavoured butter meant to accompany food, especially steak (fish and pasta, too!). Rather than melting the butter with flavourings, flavours are pounded into hard butter, which expels some of the butter’s moisture, leaving the butter more fat-concentrated and supremely textured. I’ve provided some herb-and-spice combinations that have worked well for me (see photo caption).
When using spices, it’s best to lightly toast them in a dry pan before grinding them (it really brings their flavours to the surface). You can toast pre-ground spices, too, but not as effectively—keep an eye on them; they will toast very quickly. When using fresh herbs, mince the herbs as finely as you can before pounding them into the butter.
Making compound butter is a messy and wholly gratifying experience, and the butter will keep for weeks in the fridge and much longer in the freezer.
MAKES 1 LOG OF COMPOUND BUTTER
1/2 cup unsalted butter, fridge hard
3/4 teaspoon salt
Flavourings of your choice (about 1 tablespoon dried spices or about 1 cup loosely packed fresh herbs)
On a cutting board, pound butter and salt into your flavouring(s) with your palms or a potato masher. Using your hands, fold and squeeze it until everything is fully incorporated (you will almost certainly wring some moisture from the butter, and that’s good). Working quickly, before the butter melts too much in your hands, shape it into a log. Wrap it in plastic wrap, and freeze or refrigerate.
When you’re ready to use it, let compound butter sit at room temperature for a minute or two, until it’s a little softer than fridge hard, and then cut it into 1/4-inch slices. Place a medallion on top of your steak, where it will melt its way to splendid harmony.
From left to right: scallions and garlic; orange and its zest; nutmeg and coriander; lemon and sage; sundried tomato and chilies; dried ancho chili and cumin.
© 2018 by Rob Firing