Steak Revolution

RIB STEAK WITH BROWN-BUTTER PARSNIP MASH AND CARAMELIZED LEEKS

SERVES 4 TO 6

This dish is a something of a royal feast. Your kitchen will smell like the best steakhouse in the world, your guests will be drooling in anticipation, and they won’t be let down. The happy truth is that this meal is easy to make thanks to its well-timed method, which means you can quite reliably cook everything at once.

1 BIG BONE-IN RIB STEAK, 2 INCHES THICK OR MORE (ABOUT 2 1/2 POUNDS)

2 1/2 TEASPOONS SALT, DIVIDED

1/2 CUP UNSALTED BUTTER

2 MEDIUM PARSNIPS, PEELED AND CUT INTO 1-INCH PIECES

4 MEDIUM YUKON GOLD POTATOES, PEELED AND CUT INTO 1-INCH PIECES

2 WHOLE LEEKS

1 TABLESPOON OLIVE OIL, FOR FRYING

UNSALTED BUTTER, FOR FRYING

SALT AND PEPPER, TO TASTE

1 LEMON (MOST FOR ZESTING, 1/4 FOR SQUEEZING)

1 CUP HEAVY OR WHIPPING (35%) CREAM (AT ROOM TEMPERATURE OR SOMEWHAT WARMER)

PLACE A WIRE RACK on the middle rack of the oven and line the rack below it with enough foil to catch the steak drippings while allowing the steak to bask freely in your oven’s dry winds. There won’t be much dripping, but this makes cleanup easy and will ensure you don’t get a smoky oven the next time you cook at higher temperatures. Preheat your oven to 225°F.

SPRINKLE about 1 teaspoon salt all over your steak. Place your salted steak on the wire rack and cook in preheated oven for about 30 minutes per pound (about 1 1/2 hours total), turning once halfway through to dry out both sides evenly, until it reaches an internal temperature of 115°F in the meaty middle (that is, not in a seam or in fat, but in the meatiest part of the middle of the steak).

MEANWHILE, in a saucepan over medium-low heat, cook butter until all the bubbles have finished erupting, and brown bits of solids begin to form in the pan (the butter should taste rich and nutty). Remove pan from heat immediately and transfer brown butter to a coffee cup or other heatproof vessel.

WHEN YOUR STEAK is 30 minutes from being done in the oven, place prepared parsnips and potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water, add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and boil until fork-tender, about 20 minutes.

MEANWHILE, prepare leeks: Using a sharp knife, trim off roots, then cut leeks into 3- to 4-inch lengths (white and light green parts only). Next, cut them in half lengthwise but keep 1 inch of one end intact, making it easier to free them of their grit and so they don’t fall apart (see photo). Hold the intact end firmly and rinse the leeks well. Heat olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Place leeks in pan, cut-side up, and dab a knife-point of butter onto each leek. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Cook until leeks start crackling, then carefully turn over. (If you don’t see this nice coating when you turn the leeks the first time, continue cooking until you do.) Squeeze lemon overtop. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and continue cooking for about 7 minutes, until creamy-soft with a sticky brown coating. Transfer cooked leeks to a serving dish and place in a warm oven, reserving pan for searing steak.

ONCE THE POTATOES and parsnips are fork-tender, remove pan from heat. Drain and let steam-dry in the pan for about 5 minutes. Using a potato ricer or food mill, rice vegetables into a large bowl (you could also just mash them, but the ricer or food mill will give you fluffier, less gluey, results). Using a wooden spoon or spatula, fold in heavy cream, a pinch of salt, and reserved brown butter. Transfer to a serving dish and place in warm oven, along with cooked leeks.

HEAT THE RESERVED PAN over medium-high heat. Sear your steak for 30 seconds, and then flip, searing the other side of the steak, flipping again as needed until a nice, dark brown crust develops and the steak reaches an internal temperature approaching 125°F in the middle. Your steak may sear faster than usual, even at this slightly lower temperature, because of the caramelized leek residue in the pan.

TRANSFER seared steak to a sheet of foil, wrap very loosely, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

USING A SHARP KNIFE, cut off the bone, keeping it just a bit meaty to serve as a lucky prize with the big steak. Cut steak crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Serve right on the carving board, if your board has a runnel and well, or on a warmed platter. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and a little finely grated lemon zest. Serve with warm mash and leeks.