Southwest
Nevada
Las Vegas
Around Las Vegas
Western Nevada
The Great Basin
Arizona
Phoenix
Central Arizona
Grand Canyon National Park
Around the Grand Canyon
Northern & Eastern Arizona
Western Arizona
Southern Arizona
Around Tucson
Southeastern Arizona
Utah
Salt Lake City
Park City & Wasatch Mountains
Northeastern Utah
Moab & Southeastern Utah
Zion & Southwestern Utah
New Mexico
Albuquerque
Along I-40
Santa Fe
Around Santa Fe
Northwestern New Mexico
Northeastern New Mexico
Southwestern New Mexico
Southeastern New Mexico
Southwest
Why Go?
Rugged. Beautiful. And fun. The Southwest is America’s wild backyard, luring adventurous travelers with red-rock canyons, Wild West legends and the kicky delights of green-chile stew. Reminders of the region’s Native American heritage and hardscrabble Wild West heyday dot the landscape, from enigmatic pictographs and abandoned cliff dwellings to crumbling Hispanic missions and rusty mining towns. Today, history making continues, with astronomers and rocket builders peering into starry skies, while artists and entrepreneurs flock to urban centers and quirky mountain towns. It’s an ideal destination for road-trippers, with a splendid network of scenic drives linking the most beautiful and iconic sites. But remember: it’s not just larger-than-life landscapes that make a trip through the Southwest memorable. Study that saguaro up close; ask a Hopi artist about their craft; savor that green-chile stew. You may cherish those smaller moments the most.
When to Go
- Jan Ski near Taos and Flagstaff. In Park City, hit the slopes and the Sundance Film Festival.
- Jun–Aug High season for exploring national parks in New Mexico, Utah and northern Arizona.
- Sep–Nov Hike to the bottom of the Grand Canyon or gaze at bright leaves in northern New Mexico.
Southwest Highlights
1 Grand Canyon National Park Catching the sunset from a South Rim viewpoint
2 Santa Fe Exploring the cultural diversions, from Meow Wolf to international folk art.
3 Angels Landing (Zion) Staying brave while hiking this stunning slice of Utah canyonland.
4 Las Vegas Finding out it’s even more brash, synthetic and irresponsible than you’d hoped!
5 Sedona Rejoicing that even monetised hippy culture can’t tarnish this unique red-rock city.
6 Route 66 Winding along the Mother Road through remote landscapes and time-capsule townships.
7 Moab Celebrating the great outdoors while mountain biking, hiking, rafting or camping.
8 Monument Valley Snapping impossibly photogenic brick-red buttes and mesas, the stars of countless Westerns.
9 Acoma Pueblo Learning about one of the nation’s oldest communities on a sky-high mesa.
History
By about AD 100, three dominant cultures were emerging in the Southwest: the Hohokam of the desert, the Mogollon of the central mountains and valleys, and the Ancestral Puebloans. Archaeologists originally called the Ancestral Puebloans the Anasazi, which comes from a Navajo term meaning ‘ancient enemy’ and has fallen out of favor.
Francisco Vásquez de Coronado led the first major expedition into North America in 1540. It included 300 soldiers, hundreds of Native American guides and herds of livestock. It also marked the first major violence between Spanish explorers and the native people.
In addition to armed conflict, Europeans introduced smallpox, measles and typhus, to which the Native Americans had no resistance. Pueblo populations were decimated by these diseases, shattering cultures and trade routes and proving a destructive force that far outstripped combat.
Development in the Southwest expanded rapidly during the 19th century, mainly due to railroad and geological surveys. As the US pushed west, the army forcibly removed entire tribes of Native Americans in horrifyingly brutal Indian Wars. Gold and silver mines drew fortune seekers, and the lawless mining towns of the Wild West mushroomed practically overnight. Soon the Santa Fe Railroad was luring a flood of tourists to the West.
Modern settlement is closely linked to water use. Following the Reclamation Act of 1902, huge federally funded dams were built to control rivers and irrigate the desert. Rancorous disagreements over water rights are ongoing, especially with the phenomenal boom in residential development and the extensive recent drought. The other major issue in recent years, especially in southern Arizona, has been illegal immigration across the border from Mexico.
Local Culture
Rugged individuality is the cultural idiom of the Southwest. But the reality? It’s a bit more complex. The major identities of the region, centered on a trio of tribes – Anglo, Hispanic and Native American – are as vast and varied as the land that has shaped them. Whether their personal religion involves aliens, art, nuclear fission, slot machines, peyote or Joseph Smith, there’s plenty of room for you in this beautiful, barely tamed chunk of America.
SOUTHWEST IN…
One Week
Museums and a burgeoning arts scene set an inspirational tone in Phoenix. In the morning, follow Camelback Rd into Scottsdale for top-notch shopping and gallery-hopping in Old Town. Drive north to Sedona for spiritual recharging before pondering the immensity of the Grand Canyon. From here, choose either bling or buttes. For bling, detour onto Route 66, cross the bridge beside Hoover Dam then indulge your fantasies in Las Vegas. For buttes, drive east from the Grand Canyon into Navajo country, cruising beneath the giant rock formations in Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park then stepping back in time at stunning Canyon de Chelly National Monument.
Two Weeks
Start in glitzy Las Vegas before kicking back in funky Flagstaff and peering into the abyss at Grand Canyon National Park (map Google map). Check out collegiate Tucson and hike amid cacti at Saguaro National Park. Watch the gunslingers in Tombstone before settling into offbeat Victorian Bisbee. Secure your sunglasses for the blinding dunes of White Sands National Monument in New Mexico then sink into Santa Fe, a magnet for art-lovers. Explore the pueblo in Taos and watch the sunrise at awesome Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. Head into Utah for the red-rock national parks, Canyonlands and Arches. Do the hoodoos at Bryce Canyon then pay your respects at glorious Zion.
8Getting There & Around
Las Vegas’ McCarran International Airport and Phoenix’s Sky Harbor International Airport are the region’s busiest airports, with plenty of domestic and international connections.
Greyhound stops at major cities, but barely serves national parks or off-the-beaten-path towns such as Moab. Amtrak train service is even more limited, although it too links several southwestern cities and offers bus connections to others (including Santa Fe and Phoenix). The California Zephyr crosses Utah and Nevada; the Southwest Chief stops in Arizona and New Mexico; and the Sunset Limited traverses southern Arizona and New Mexico.
Ultimately, this means private vehicles are often the only means to reach out-of-the-way towns, trailheads and swimming spots, and to explore the region in any depth.
Nevada
Nevada is defined by contrasts and contradictions, juxtaposing arid plains with skyward, snowcapped mountains, while stilettos demand equal suitcase space with ski boots. Many visitors come only for the main event: Las Vegas. Nevada’s twinkling desert jewel is a mecca for pleasure-seekers, and where privilege and poverty collide and three-quarters of the state’s population resides.
In this libertarian state, rural brothels coexist with Mormon churches, casinos and cowboys. Isolated ghost towns recall a pioneering past and the promise of a better life. But Nevada’s rightful drawcard is nature, with Reno’s rushing Truckee River, Lake Tahoe’s crystal waters and forested peaks, the playas of the Black Rock Desert where Burning Man’s utopia was born, and the craggy peaks of the Great Basin and the austere expanses of Hwy 50, the ‘Loneliest Road in America.’
NEVADA FACTS
Nickname Silver State
Population 3.03 million
Area 109,800 sq miles
Capital city Carson City (population 54,439)
Other cities Las Vegas (population 641,700), Reno (248,853)
Sales tax 4.6%
Birthplace of Andre Agassi (b 1970), Greg LeMond (b 1961)
Home of The slot machine, Burning Man
Politics Nevada has six electoral votes – the state went for Clinton in the 2016 presidential election
Famous for The 1859 Comstock Lode (the country’s richest known silver deposit), legalized gambling and prostitution (outlawed in certain counties), and liberal alcohol laws allowing 24-hour bars
Driving distances Las Vegas to Reno 452 miles, Great Basin National Park to Las Vegas 313 miles
8Information
Nevada Division of State Parks (
%775-684-2770; www.parks.nv.gov; 901 S Stewart St, 5th fl; 
h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Camping in state parks ($10 to $15 per night) is first come, first served.
Nevada Tourism Commission (%775-687-4322; www.travelnevada.com; 401 N Carson St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Sends free books, maps and information on accommodations, campgrounds and events.
Las Vegas
An oasis of indulgence in the desert, Vegas is hypnotically seductive. Where else can you party in ancient Rome, get hitched at midnight, wake up in Egypt and brunch beneath the Eiffel Tower? Double down with the high rollers, browse couture or tacky souvenirs, sip a neon 3ft-high margarita or a frozen vodka martini from a bar made of ice – it’s all here.
It’s also a desert dreamscape of boom and bust, where once-famous signs collect dust in a neon boneyard while the clang of construction echoes over the Strip. These days, with hotels and bars opening at a rapid pace and a fresh collection of pop divas kicking off residencies, the city is as hot as ever, attracting well over 40 million visitors per year.
Las Vegas’ largest casinos – each one a gigantic and baffling mélange of theme park, gambling den, shopping and dining destination, hotel and theater district – line up along the legendary Strip. Once you’ve explored those, head to the compact downtown to encounter Vegas’ nostalgic beginnings, peppered with indie shops and cocktail bars where local culture thrives. Then detour further afield to find intriguing museums that investigate Vegas’ gangster, atomic-fueled past.
Las Vegas
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
8Information
1Sights
Vegas’ sights are primarily concentrated along the 4.2-mile stretch of Las Vegas Blvd anchored by Mandalay Bay to the south (at Russell Rd) and the Stratosphere to the north (at Sahara Ave) and in the Downtown area around the intersection of Las Vegas Blvd (N Las Vegas Blvd at this point) and Fremont St. Note that while the street has the same name, there’s an additional 2 miles between Downtown and the northern end of the Strip, with not much of interest in between. It’s not a great idea to walk between the two; this neighborhood can be a little dicey. Rideshares, the Monorail and Deuce bus services are by far the easiest ways to get around this spaced-out (in more ways than one) city.
1The Strip
oAriaLANDMARK
(map Google map; CityCenter; www.aria.com; 3780 S Las Vegas Blvd; 
p)
We’ve seen this symbiotic relationship before (think giant hotel anchored by a mall ‘concept’), but the way that this futuristic-feeling complex places a small galaxy of hypermodern, chichi hotels in orbit around the glitzy Shops at Crystals (map Google map; www.simon.com/mall/the-shops-at-crystals; h10am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri-Sun) is a first. The upscale spread includes the subdued, stylish Vdara (map Google map; %702-590-2111; www.vdara.com; 2600 W Harmon Ave, Aria; weekday/weekend ste from $103/189; p
n
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S, the hush-hush opulent Waldorf Astoria (map Google map; www.waldorfastorialasvegas.com; 3752 S Las Vegas Blvd; r from $200; pnaWs) and the dramatic architectural showpiece Aria (map Google map), whose sophisticated casino provides a fitting backdrop to its many drop-dead-gorgeous restaurants. CityCenter’s hotels have in excess of 6700 rooms!
oBellagioCASINO
(map Google map; %702-693-7111; www.bellagio.com; 3600 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr; p)
The Bellagio experience transcends its decadent casino floor of high-limit gaming tables and in excess of 2300 slot machines; locals say odds here are less than favorable. A stop on the World Poker Tour, Bellagio’s tournament-worthy poker room offers kitchen-to-gaming-table delivery around the clock. Most, however, come for the property’s stunning architecture, interiors and amenities, including the Conservatory & Botanical Gardens (map Google map; h24hr; p
c) 
F, Gallery of Fine Art (map Google map; %702-693-7871; adult/child under 12yr $18/free; h10am-8pm, last entry 7:30pm; pc), unmissable Fountains of Bellagio (map Google map; hshows every 30min 3-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat, 11am-7pm Sun, every 15min 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, from 7pm Sun; pc) F and the 2000-plus hand-blown glass flowers embellishing the hotel lobby.
oCaesars PalaceCASINO
(map Google map; %866-227-5938; www.caesars.com/caesars-palace; 3570 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr; p)
Caesars Palace claims that its smartly renovated casino floor has more million-dollar slots than anywhere in the world, but its claims to fame are far more numerous than that. Entertainment heavyweights Celine Dion and Elton John ‘own’ its custom-built Colosseum (map Google map; %866-227-5938; www.thecolosseum.com; tickets $55-500) theater, fashionistas saunter around The Forum Shops (map Google map; %702-893-4800; www.simon.com/mall/the-forum-shops-at-caesars-palace; h10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat), while Caesars’ hotel guests quaff cocktails in the Garden of the Gods Pool Oasis. By night, megaclub Omnia (map Google map; %702-785-6200; www.omniaclubs.com/las-vegas; cover female/male from $20/40; h10:30pm-4am Tue & Thu-Sun) is one of the best places to get off your face this side of Ibiza.
NoMadCASINO
(map Google map; %702-730-7000; www.thenomadhotel.com; 3772 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr)
If a Las Vegas casino can be classy, the NoMad comes in pretty close to the mark. High-limit roulette, blackjack and baccarat are available under a Tiffany-glass ceiling. The NoMad’s pool is modeled on the Majorelle Gardens in Morocco, and is quietly relaxing on weekdays (weekend Jemaa parties are another story).
LINQ CasinoCASINO
(map Google map; %800-634-6441; www.caesars.com/linq; 3535 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr; p)
With a fresh, young and funky vibe, one of Vegas’ newest casinos benefits from also being one of its smallest with just over 60 tables and around 750 slot machines. There’s an airy, spacious feel to the place, tables feature high-backed, ruby-red, patent-vinyl chairs, and when you need to escape, the fun and frivolity of LINQ Promenade (map Google map; %800-634-6441; www.caesars.com/linq; h24hr; pc) are just outside the door.
VenetianCASINO
(map Google map; %702-414-1000; www.venetian.com; 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr; p)
The Venetian’s regal 120,000-sq-ft casino has marble floors, hand-painted ceiling frescoes and 120 table games, including a high-limit lounge and an elegant nonsmoking poker room, where women are especially welcome (unlike at many other poker rooms in town). When combined with its younger, neighboring sibling Palazzo (map Google map; %702-607-7777; www.palazzo.com; 3325 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr; p), the properties claim the largest casino space in Las Vegas. Unmissable on the Strip, a highlight of this miniature replica of Venice is a gondola ride down its Grand Canal.
oCosmopolitanCASINO
(map Google map; %702-698-7000; www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com; 3708 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr; p)
Hipsters who thought they were too cool for Vegas finally have a place to go where they don’t need irony to endure – or enjoy – the aesthetics of the Strip. Like the new Hollywood ‘It’ girl, the Cosmopolitan casino looks absolutely fabulous at all times. A steady stream of ingenues and entourages parade through the lobby (with some of the coolest design elements we’ve seen) along with anyone else who adores contemporary art and design.
oMandalay BayCASINO
(map Google map; %702-632-7700; www.mandalaybay.com; 3950 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr; pc)
Since opening in 1999, in place of the former ‘50s-era Hacienda, Mandalay Bay has anchored the southern Strip. Its theme may be tropical, but it sure ain’t tacky, nor is its 135,000-sq-ft casino. Well-dressed sports fans find their way to the upscale race and sports book near the high-stakes poker room. Refusing to be pigeonholed, the Bay’s standout attractions include the multilevel Shark Reef Aquarium (map Google map; %702-632-4555; www.sharkreef.com; adult/child $25/19; h10am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; pc), decadent day spas, oodles of signature dining and the unrivaled Mandalay Bay Beach (map Google map; %702-632-4760; www.mandalaybay.com/en/amenities/beach.html; hpool 8am-7pm, Moorea Beach Club from 10am; c).
Paris Las VegasCASINO
(map Google map; %877-796-2096; www.caesars.com/paris-las-vegas; 3655 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr; p)
This mini version of the French capital might lack the charm of the City of Light, but its efforts to emulate Paris’ landmarks, including a 34-story Hotel de Ville and facades from the Opera House and Louvre, make it a fun stop for families and anyone yet to see the real thing. Its vaulted casino ceilings simulate sunny skies above myriad tables and slots, while its high-limit, authentic French roulette wheels, sans 0 and 00, slightly improve your odds.
High RollerFERRIS WHEEL
(map Google map; %702-777-2782; www.caesars.com/linq/high-roller; LINQ Promenade; adult/child from $22/9, after 5pm $32/19; h11:30am-1:30am; pc; 
DFlamingo or Harrah’s/Linq)
The world’s largest observation wheel towers 550ft above LINQ Promenade. Each of the 28 air-conditioned passenger cabins is enclosed by handcrafted Italian glass. Outside, 2000 colorful LED lights glow from dusk until dawn. One revolution takes about 30 minutes and each pod can hold 40 guests. From 4pm to 7pm, select pods host the adults-only (21-plus) ‘happy half-hour’ ($35, or $47 after 5pm) with an open bar (read all-you-can-drink) shared between your fellow riders. Things can get messy, fast.
Mirage VolcanoLANDMARK
(map Google map; %702-791-7111; www.mirage.com; Mirage; hshows 8pm, 9pm & 10pm daily) F
When the Mirage’s trademark artificial volcano erupts with a roar out of a 3-acre lagoon, it inevitably brings traffic on the Strip to a screeching halt. Be on the lookout for wisps of smoke escaping from the top, signaling that the fiery Polynesian-style inferno, with a soundtrack by a Grateful Dead drummer and an Indian tabla musician, is about to begin.
1Downtown & Off the Strip
For tourists, the five-block Fremont Street Experience (%702-678-5600; www.vegasexperience.com; Fremont St Mall; hshows hourly dusk-midnight or 1am; 
gDeuce, SDX) F is the focal point of Downtown, with its wealth of vintage casinos, where today’s Vegas was born – and fear not, they’re still going strong. Further south, the Arts District (www.18b.org) revolves around the Arts Factory (map Google map; %702-383-9907; www.theartsfactory.com; 107 E Charleston Blvd; h9am-6pm; gDeuce, SDX), while heading east on Fremont St will take you to an adorable little hodgepodge of hip bars and happening restaurants.
oMob MuseumMUSEUM
(%702-229-2734; www.themobmuseum.org; 300 Stewart Ave; adult/child $27/17; h9am-9pm; p; gDeuce)
It’s hard to say what’s more impressive: the museum’s physical location in a historic federal courthouse where mobsters sat for federal hearings in 1950–51, the fact that the board of directors is headed up by a former FBI special agent, or the thoughtfully curated exhibits telling the story of organized crime in America. The museum features hands-on FBI equipment and mob-related artifacts, as well as interviews with real-life Tony Sopranos.
oNeon Museum – Neon BoneyardMUSEUM
(%702-387-6366; www.neonmuseum.org; 770 N Las Vegas Blvd; 1hr tour adult/child $28/24; htours daily, schedules vary; g113)
This nonprofit project is doing what almost no one else does: saving Las Vegas’ history. Book ahead for a fascinating guided walking tour of the ‘Neon Boneyard,’ where irreplaceable vintage neon signs – Las Vegas’ original art form – spend their retirement. Start exploring at the visitor center inside the salvaged La Concha Motel lobby, a mid-century modern icon designed by African American architect Paul Revere Williams. Tours are usually given throughout the day, but are most spectacular at night.
National Atomic Testing MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %702-794-5151; www.nationalatomictestingmuseum.org; 755 Flamingo Rd E, Desert Research Institute; adult/child $22/16; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; g202)
Fascinating multimedia exhibits focus on science, technology and the social history of the ‘Atomic Age,’ which lasted from WWII until a worldwide ban on nuclear testing was declared in 1992. Experience a (legitimately scary) simulation of witnessing an atomic test, and examine southern Nevada’s nuclear past, present and future, from Native American ways of life to the environmental legacy of atomic testing. Don’t miss the ticket booth: it’s a Nevada Test Site guard-station replica.
THRILLS & SPILLS IN LAS VEGAS
Stratosphere (map Google map; %702-380-7777; www.stratospherehotel.com/ThrillRides; Stratosphere; elevator adult $20, incl 3 thrill rides $35, all-day pass $40; h10am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; DSahara) The world’s highest thrill rides await, a whopping 110 stories above the Strip.
Sky Combat Ace (%888-494-5850; www.skycombatace.com; 1420 Jet Stream Dr #100; from $299) A bona-fide fighter pilot takes you through the paces of air-to-air dogfights and extreme acrobatics!
VooDoo ZipLine (map Google map; %702-388-0477; www.voodoozipline.com; Rio; from $25; h11am-midnight) At last, your chance to zipline between two skyscrapers.
Gravady (%702-843-0395; www.gravady.com; 7350 Prairie Falcon Rd #120; 1hr flight adult/child $15/12; h9am-9pm Mon-Wed, from 3:30pm Thu, 9am-11pm Fri & Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; c) Get bouncy with the kids at this high-energy trampoline park in Summerlin.
Speedvegas (%702-874-8888; www.speedvegas.com; 14200 S Las Vegas Blvd; laps $39-99, experiences $395-1800; h10am-4:30pm) Burn serious rubber at the wheel of a sports car on Vegas’ only custom-built track.
Richard Petty Driving Experience (%800-237-3889; www.drivepetty.com; 7000 N Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas Motor Speedway; ride-alongs from $136, drives from $199; hhours vary) This is your chance to ride shotgun during a Nascar-style qualifying run.
2Activities
oQua Baths & SpaSPA
(map Google map; %866-782-0655; www.caesars.com/caesars-palace; Caesars Palace; fitness center day pass $25, incl spa facilities $50; h6am-8pm)
Qua evokes the ancient Roman rituals of indulgent bathing. Try a signature ‘bath liqueur,’ a personalized potion of herbs and oils poured into your own private tub. The women’s side includes a tea lounge, a herbal steam room and an Arctic ice room where artificial snow falls. On the men’s side, there’s a barber spa and big-screen sports TVs.
oDesert AdventuresKAYAKING
(%702-293-5026; www.kayaklasvegas.com; 1647 Nevada Hwy; full-day Colorado River kayak $195; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar)
Would-be river rats should check in here for guided kayaking and SUP tours on Lake Mead and the Colorado River. Experienced paddlers can rent canoes and kayaks for DIY trips. Also offers fishing, hiking and boating guided tours – including smooth water floats on the Colorado River through Black Canyon ($199).
Gondola RideBOATING
(map Google map; %877-691-1997; www.venetian.com/resort/attractions/gondola-rides.html; Venetian; shared ride per person $29, child under 3yr free, private 2-passenger ride $116; hindoor rides 10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, outdoor rides 11am-10pm, weather permitting; c)
As in Venice itself, a gondola ride in Vegas is a touristy activity that nonetheless holds allure for visitors from all over the world. Choose between a moonlit outdoor cruise in the resort’s miniature lake facing the Strip or float through winding indoor canals past shoppers and diners. Buy tickets inside the Grand Canal Shoppes at the Venetian (map Google map; %702-414-4525; www.grandcanalshoppes.com; 3377 S Las Vegas Blvd, Venetian; h10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat).
4Sleeping
Room rates in Las Vegas rise and fall every day; visiting on weekdays is almost always cheaper than weekends. Note that almost every Strip hotel also charges an additional ‘resort fee’ of $30 to $45 per day.
4The Strip
oCosmopolitanCASINO HOTEL$
(map Google map; %702-698-7000; www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com; 3708 S Las Vegas Blvd; r from $140; paiWs#; gDeuce)
With at least eight distinctively different and equally stylish room types to choose from, Cosmo’s digs are the hippest on the Strip. Ranging from oversized to decadent, about 2200 of its 2900 or so rooms have balconies (all but the entry-level category), many sport sunken Japanese tubs and all feature plush furnishings and design quirks you’ll delight in uncovering.
oMandalay BayCASINO HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %702-632-7700; www.mandalaybay.com; 3950 S Las Vegas Blvd; r weekday/weekend from $79/388; paiWs)
Anchoring the south Strip, upscale Mandalay Bay’s same-named hotel has a cache of classy rooms worthy of your attention in their own right, not to mention the exclusive Four Seasons Hotel (map Google map; %702-632-5000; www.fourseasons.com/lasvegas; r weekday/weekend from $305/440; paiWs) and boutique Delano (map Google map; %702-632-7888; www.delanolasvegas.com; r weekday/weekend from $143/369; paiWs#) within its bounds. Plus there’s a diverse range of noteworthy attractions and amenities, not least of which is Mandalay Bay Beach.
oBellagioCASINO HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %702-693-7111; www.bellagio.com; 3600 S Las Vegas Blvd; r weekday/weekend from $169/399; paiWs#)
When it opened in 1998, Bellagio was the world’s most expensive hotel. Aging gracefully, it remains one of America’s finest. Its sumptuous oversized guest rooms fuse classic style with modern amenities and feature palettes of platinum, indigo and muted white-gold, or rusty autumnal oranges with subtle splashes of matcha green. Cashmere throws, mood lighting and automatic drapes complete the picture.
Aria Las Vegas ResortCASINO HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %702-590-7111; www.aria.com; 3730 S Las Vegas Blvd, CityCenter; r weekday/weekend from $119/169; paiWs)
Aria’s sleek resort hotel has no theme, unlike some of the Strip’s other megaproperties. Instead, its 4000-plus deluxe rooms (520 sq ft) and 560 tower suites (920-plus sq ft) are all about soothing design, spaciousness and luxury, and every room has a corner view. If you’ve cash to burn, Aria Sky Suites & Villas (map Google map; %702-590-7111; www.aria.com; 3730 S Las Vegas Blvd, Aria; ste $400), a hotel-within-a-hotel, might be for you.
LINQ HotelCASINO HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %800-634-6441; www.caesars.com/linq; 3535 S Las Vegas Blvd; r from $99; paWs#)
Launching onto the Las Vegas Strip in late 2014, LINQ, formerly the Quad, has cemented its position as a solid all-rounder. Its fresh, white rooms have fun splashes of color and sleek furniture, there’s a wealth of available amenities (this being part of the Caesars group) and it has an enviable location at the center of its eponymous promenade.
SLSHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %702-761-7000; www.slslasvegas.com; 2535 S Las Vegas Blvd; d from $102; paWs)
The SLS replaced the Sahara in 2011, and now the Sahara is replacing the SLS (the $100 million renovation is due to finish in 2020). In the meantime, you can nab a room here on the north Strip at very good rates compared to same-branded properties in other cities. The hotel’s quirky style is infectious.
oCromwell Las VegasBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %702-777-3777; www.caesars.com/cromwell; 3595 S Las Vegas Blvd; r from $288; paWs#)
If you’re 20- to 30-something, can hold your own with the cool kids, or you’re just effortlessly stylish whatever your demographic, there are a few good reasons to choose Cromwell, the best being its location and frequently excellent rates on sassy, entry-level rooms. The others? You’ve got your sights set on partying at Drai’s (map; %702-777-3800; www.draisgroup.com/las-vegas/; nightclub cover $20-50; hnightclub 10:30pm-4am Thu-Sun, beach club 11am-6pm Fri-Sun) or dining downstairs at Giada (map Google map; %855-442-3271; www.caesars.com/cromwell; mains $24-60; h5pm-10:30pm, brunch 9am-3pm Fri-Sun).
NoMadCASINO HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; www.thenomadhotel.com/las-vegas; 3772 S Las Vegas Blvd, Park MGM; r from $249; paWs)
The NoMad has taken things to truly a ridiculous level: it’s a hotel within a hotel within a hotel. It’s a good thing the rooms are exquisite, most with freestanding bath tubs and custom-made furniture. There’s a fun party vibe in the restaurant and bar, which spills out onto the classier-than-most casino floor.
4Downtown & Off the Strip
oThunderbird HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$
(map Google map; %702-489-7500; www.thunderbirdhotellasvegas.com; 1215 S Las Vegas Blvd; d from $39; paWs)
Nestled between the north Strip and Fremont St, this retro renovated job is an instant winner with its great rates, funky fresh rooms with chunky, reclaimed-wood furniture, and fun, youthful vibe. It’s not a hostel or a boutique hotel, but lies somewhere in between.
The neighborhood is dicey, especially after dark. Plan to drive or rideshare.
Golden NuggetCASINO HOTEL$
(%702-385-7111; www.goldennugget.com; 129 Fremont St E; d from $49; paiWs)
Pretend to relive the fabulous heyday of Vegas in the 1950s at this swank Fremont St address. Rooms in the Rush Tower are the best in the house.
5Eating
The Strip has been studded with celebrity chefs for years. All-you-can-eat buffets and $10 steaks still exist, but today’s high-rolling visitors demand ever more sophisticated dining experiences, with meals designed – although not personally prepared – by famous taste-makers.
5The Strip
oUmami BurgerBURGERS$
(map Google map; %702-761-7614; www.umamiburger.com; 2535 S Las Vegas Blvd, SLS; burgers $12-15; h11am-10pm; p)
This SLS burger offering is one of the best on the Strip, with its outdoor beer garden, extensive craft-beer selection and juicy boutique burgers made by the chain that won GQ magazine’s ‘burger of the year’ crown. This is a great place to try the new, vegan ‘Impossible’ burger everyone keeps banging on about.
oTacos El GordoMEXICAN$
(map Google map; %702-982-5420; www.tacoselgordobc.com; 3049 S Las Vegas Blvd; small plates $3-12; h10am-2am, to 4am Fri & Sat; p
vc; gDeuce, SDX)
This Tijuana-style taco shop from SoCal is just the ticket when it’s way late, you’ve got almost no money left and you’re desperately craving carne asada (beef) or adobada (chili-marinated pork) tacos in hot, handmade tortillas. Adventurous eaters will be lured by the authentic sesos (beef brains), cabeza (roasted cow’s head) or tripe (intestines) variations.
oMilk BarDESSERTS$
(map Google map; %7020-698-7000; www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com; Cosmopolitan; soft serve from $6; h9am-1am, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Momofuku dessert program wünderkind Christina Tosi has brought her Milk Bar concept to Las Vegas, inspiring rapture and adoration. Try her cereal-milk soft serve, corn cookies or (and?) cake truffles and feel smug.
JaburritoSUSHI$
(map Google map; %702-901-7375; www.jaburritos.com; LINQ Promenade; items $10-13; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
It’s simple: hybridize a nori (seaweed) sushi roll with a burrito. What could go wrong? Nothing actually…they’re awesome! Mochi ice-cream pops for dessert are extremely fun to eat.
PeppermillDINER$$
(map Google map; %702-735-4177; www.peppermilllasvegas.com; 2985 S Las Vegas Blvd; mains $13-31; h24hr)
Slide into a crescent-shaped booth at this retro casino coffee shop and revel in the old-school Vegas atmosphere. You can eavesdrop on Nevada cowboys and downtown politicos digging into a gigantic late-night bite or early breakfast. For tropical tiki drinks, step into a sexy booth at Peppermill’s Fireside Lounge (map Google map; %702-735-7635).
oJoël RobuchonFRENCH$$$
(map Google map; %702-891-7925; www.mgmgrand.com; MGM Grand; tasting menus $120-425; h5:30-10pm)
The acclaimed ‘Chef of the Century’ leads the pack in the French culinary invasion of the Strip. Adjacent to the MGM Grand’s (map Google map; %877-880-0880; www.mgmgrand.com; 3799 S Las Vegas Blvd; h24hr; pc) high-rollers’ gaming area, Robuchon’s plush dining rooms, done up in leather and velvet, feel like a dinner party at a 1930s Paris mansion. Complex seasonal tasting menus promise the meal of a lifetime – and they often deliver.
oMorimotoFUSION$$$
(map Google map; %702-891-3001; www.mgmgrand.com; MGM Grand; mains $24-75; h5-10pm, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat)
Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto’s latest Vegas incarnation is in his eponymous showcase restaurant, which pays homage to his Japanese roots and the cuisine of this city that has propelled him to legend status around the world. Dining here is an experience in every possible way and, we think, worth every penny.
oCatchSEAFOOD$$$
(map Google map; %702-590-5757; https://aria.mgmresorts.com; Aria; mains from $40; h5:30-11:30pm; pa)
Fresh from a $7 million renovation, this space had better be beautiful – and it does not disappoint. The seafood-centric menu is massive, focusing on Asian preparations including truffled sashimi and whole fish and crustaceans (the whole lobster, steamed in sake, is the thing to order if you’re looking to impress your dining companion or someone across the room).
BUFFET ALL THE WAY
Extravagant all-you-can-eat buffets are a Sin City tradition. Here are three of the best:
Bacchanal Buffet (3570 Las Vegas Blvd S, Caesars Palace; $40-65 per adult, 7:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun)
Wicked Spoon Buffet (3708 Las Vegas Blvd S, Cosmopolitan; $28-49 per adult, 8am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
Buffet at Wynn (3131 Las Vegas Blvd S; Wynn; $32-60 per person, 7:30am-9:30pm)
5Downtown & off the Strip
oVegeNationVEGAN$
(map Google map; %702-366-8515; https://vegenationlv.com; 616 E Carson Ave; mains $13; h8am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; Wv) S
Faced with a health crisis, veteran chef Donald Lemperle adopted a plant-based diet, and used his learnings to open Downtown’s most exciting new cafe. His kitchen sends out insanely delicious plant-based tacos, sandwiches, pizzas and desserts made from local products and community gardens to an adoring local fan base. You can even get CBD kombucha. Welcome to the new Vegas.
oEsther’s KitchenITALIAN$$
(map Google map; %702-570-7864; www.estherslv.com; 1130 S Casino Center Blvd; pasta from $15; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; aW)
Locals are justifiably mad for the housemade seasonal pasta and heritage sourdough at this little Arts District bistro. Everything is extremely delicious, but we’re partial to the anchovy-garlic butter you can order with the sourdough, and a kale-cauliflower salad that has no right to be as delectable as it is.
oCarson KitchenAMERICAN$$
(map Google map; %702-473-9523; www.carsonkitchen.com; 124 S 6th St; tapas & mains $8-22; h11:30am-11pm Thu-Sat, to 10pm Sun-Wed; gDeuce)
This tiny eatery with an industrial theme of exposed beams, bare bulbs and chunky share tables hops with downtowners looking to escape the mayhem of Fremont St or the Strip’s high prices. Excellent shared plates include rainbow cauliflower, watermelon and feta salad, and decadent mac ‘n’ cheese. There’s also a creative drinks menu.
oLotus of SiamTHAI$$
(map Google map; %702-735-3033; www.lotusofsiamlv.com; 953 E Sahara Ave; mains $9-30; h11am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-10pm daily; v; gSDX)
Saipin Chutima’s authentic northern Thai cooking has won almost as many awards as her distinguished, geographically diverse wine cellar. Critics have suggested this might be America’s best Thai restaurant and we’re sure it’s at least very close. Although the strip-mall hole-in-the-wall may not look like much, those in the know flock here. Reservations essential.
Hugo’s CellarAMERICAN$$$
(map Google map; %702-385-4011; www.hugoscellar.com; Fremont St Mall, Fremont Street Experience, Four Queens Casino; mains $34-62; h5-10pm)
This is old-school Vegas, in the best way. In a dark and clubby space beneath Four Queens casino, Hugo’s Cellar is a return to the days when service was king. Ladies are given a rose, salads are tossed table-side and service is attentive but not intrusive. Party like it’s 1959 with veal Oscar, beef Wellington and cherries jubilee. Reservations essential.
6Drinking & Nightlife
6The Strip
oHakkasanCLUB
(map Google map; %702-891-3838; http://hakkasannightclub.com; MGM Grand; cover $20-75; h10:30pm-4am Thu-Sun)
At this lavish Asian-inspired nightclub, international jet-set DJs such as Tiësto and Steve Aoki rule the jam-packed main dance floor bordered by VIP booths and floor-to-ceiling LED screens. More offbeat sounds spin in the intimate Ling Ling Club, revealing leather sofas and backlit amber glass.
Bouncers enforce the dress code: upscale nightlife attire (no athletic wear, collared shirts required for men).
NoMad BarCOCKTAIL BAR
(map Google map; %702-730-6785; www.mgmresorts.com; NoMad Hotel; cocktails $17; h5-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
You have to walk across the restaurant to check in with the hostess at this bar – all the better for checking out the gorgeous decor (and people) at this sumptuous new addition to Vegas’ craft cocktail scene. This place isn’t just beautiful though – the drinks are truly out of this world, and well worth the hefty price tag.
Skyfall LoungeBAR
(map Google map; %702-632-7575; www.delanolasvegas.com; Delano; h5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
Enjoy unparalleled views of the southern Strip from this rooftop bar atop Mandalay Bay’s Delano hotel. Sit and sip cocktails as the sun sets over the Spring Mountains to the west, then dance the night away to mellow DJ beats, spun from 9pm.
XSCLUB
(map Google map; %702-770-0097; www.xslasvegas.com; Encore; cover $20-30; h10:30pm-4am Fri-Sun)
A few years in, XS is hitting its stride. Its extravagantly gold-drenched decor and over-the-top design mean you’ll be waiting in line for cocktails at a bar towered over by ultra-curvaceous, larger-than-life golden statues of female torsos. Famous electronica DJs make the dance floor writhe, while high rollers opt for VIP bottle service at private poolside cabanas.
6Downtown & off the Strip
Locals and in-the-know tourists make a beeline for the Fremont East Entertainment District (www.fremonteast.com) for the city’s best grassroots nightlife. The precinct runs east of Las Vegas Blvd along Fremont St for about four blocks.
oReBARBAR
(map Google map; %702-349-2283; www.rebarlv.com; 1225 S Main St; h1pm-midnight Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Las Vegas definitely revels in kitsch, and it absolutely loves drinking spots. ReBAR unites both. Located in the Arts District, it’s a temple of nutty craft items, vintage bar signs, outrageous beer steins and one-of-a-kind doohickeys. Peruse the walls for that perfect retro souvenir, then sit down for a respectable selection of beers and spirits. Bask in the vintage glow.
3Entertainment
There’s always plenty going on in Las Vegas, and Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.com) sells tickets for pretty much everything. Tix 4 Tonight (map Google map; %877-849-4868; www.tix4tonight.com; 3200 S Las Vegas Blvd, Fashion Show Mall; h10am-8pm) offers half-price tickets for a limited lineup of same-day shows, plus smaller discounts on ‘always sold-out’ shows.
3Nightclubs & Live Music
Nightclubs are serious businesses in Las Vegas. Admission prices vary wildly, according to the mood of door staff, male-to-female ratio, the acts that night and how crowded the club may be. Avoid waiting in line by booking ahead with the club VIP host. Most bigger clubs have someone working the door in the late afternoon and early evening. Hotel concierges often have free passes for clubs, or can at least make reservations. Bottle service usually waives cover charges and waiting in line, but is hugely expensive.
oHouse of Blues Gospel BrunchLIVE PERFORMANCE
(map Google map; %702-632-7600; www.houseofblues.com/lasvegas; Mandalay Bay; adult/child under 11yr $54/27; hseatings 10am & 1pm Sun; c)
Saturday night sinners can find redemption at HOB’s Sunday gospel brunch, where your ticket includes unlimited Bloody Marys and Southern and soul-food favorites such as jambalaya, chicken and waffles, jalapeño cornbread and warm banana-bread pudding. Buy tickets in advance, as they often sell out.
Legends in ConcertLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; %702-777-2782; www.legendsinconcert.com; Tropicana; tickets from $50; hshows 4pm, 7:30pm & 9:30pm)
Vegas’ top pop-star impersonator show features real singing and dancing talent mimicking famous performers such as the Beatles, Elvis, Madonna, James Brown, Britney Spears, Shania Twain and many more.
3Production Shows
There are hundreds of shows to choose from in Vegas. Any Cirque du Soleil offering tends to be an unforgettable experience.
oLe Rêve the DreamTHEATER
(map Google map; %702-770-9966; http://boxoffice.wynnlasvegas.com; Wynn; tickets $115-175; hshows 7pm & 9:30pm Fri-Tue)
Underwater acrobatic feats by scuba-certified performers are the centerpiece of this intimate ‘aqua-in-the-round’ theater, which holds a million-gallon swimming pool. Critics call it a less-inspiring version of Cirque’s O, while devoted fans find the romantic underwater tango, thrilling high dives and visually spectacular adventures to be superior. Beware: the cheapest seats are in the ‘splash zone.’
OTHEATER
(map Google map; %702-693-8866; www.cirquedusoleil.com/o; Bellagio; tickets $99-212; h7pm & 9:30pm Wed-Sun)
Phonetically speaking, it’s the French word for water (eau). With a lithe international cast performing in, on and above water, Cirque du Soleil’s O tells the tale of theater through the ages. It’s a spectacular feat of imagination and engineering, and you’ll pay dearly to see it – it’s one of the Strip’s few shows that rarely sells discounted tickets.
oAces of ComedyCOMEDY
(map Google map; %702-792-7777; www.mirage.com; 3400 S Las Vegas Blvd, Mirage; tickets $40-100; hschedules vary, box office 10am-10pm Thu-Mon, to 8pm Tue & Wed)
You’d be hard pressed to find a better A-list collection of famous stand-up comedians than this year-round series of appearances at the Mirage (map Google map; %702-791-7111; www.mirage.com; h24hr; p), which delivers the likes of Jay Leno, Joe Rogan and George Lopez to the Strip. Buy tickets in advance online or by phone, or go in person to the Mirage’s Cirque du Soleil (%877-924-7783; www.cirquedusoleil.com/las-vegas; discount tickets from $49, full price from $69) box office.
VALLEY OF FIRE STATE PARK
Valley of Fire State Park (map; %702-397-2088; www.parks.nv.gov/parks/valley-of-fire; Valley of Fire Hwy, Overton; per vehicle $10; h7am-7pm) It’s about 50 miles from Downtown Las Vegas to the Valley of Fire State Park visitor center (h8:30am-4:30pm). Make the center your first port of call to find out how best to tackle this masterpiece of Southwest desert scenery containing 40,000 acres of red Aztec sandstone, petrified trees and ancient Native American petroglyphs (at Atlatl Rock). Dedicated in 1935, the park was Nevada’s first designated state park. Its psychedelic landscape has been carved by wind and water over thousands of years.
7Shopping
oLas Vegas Premium Outlets NorthMALL
(map Google map; %702-474-7500; www.premiumoutlets.com/vegasnorth; 875 S Grand Central Pkwy; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; c; gSDX)
Vegas’ biggest-ticket outlet mall features 120 brands including high-end names such as Armani, Brooks Brothers, Diane von Furstenberg, Kate Spade, Michael Kors and Theory, alongside casual favorites such as Banana Republic, Diesel, Nike and Adidas.
Planet 13DISPENSARY
(map Google map; %702-815-1313; www.planet13lasvegas.com; 2548 W Desert Inn Rd; h24hr; W)
File this under only-in-Vegas: this self-described ‘cannabis superstore and entertainment complex’ is an emporium the size of several city blocks devoted to all things weed. Your personal concierge walks you through the myriad products, from flower, seeds, edibles, CBD products and accessories. Even if you’re not partial to a toke, this totally unprecedented shopping experience is worth a visit.
Retro VegasVINTAGE
(map Google map; %702-384-2700; www.retro-vegas.com; 1131 S Main St; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; g108, Deuce)
Near Downtown’s Arts District, this flamingo-pink-painted antiques shop is a primo place for picking up mid-20th-century modern and swingin’ 1960s and ‘70s gems, from artwork to home decor, as well as vintage Vegas souvenirs such as casino-hotel ashtrays. Red Kat’s secondhand clothing, handbags and accessories are also found here.
8Information
EMERGENCY & MEDICAL SERVICES
Police %911 (emergencies) or %702-828-3111
Sunrise Hospital & Medical Center (%702-731-8000; www.sunrisehospital.com; 3186 S Maryland Pkwy; h24hr) Specialized children’s trauma services available at a 24-hour emergency room.
University Medical Center (UMC; %702-383-2000; www.umcsn.com; 1800 W Charleston Blvd; h24hr) Southern Nevada’s most advanced trauma center has a 24-hour ER.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority (LVCVA; map; %702-892-7575; www.lasvegas.com; 3150 Paradise Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri; DLas Vegas Convention Center)
8Getting There & Around
Vegas is served by McCarran International Airport (LAS; map; %702-261-5211; www.mccarran.com; 5757 Wayne Newton Blvd; W), near the south end of the Strip. A free, wheelchair-accessible tram links outlying gates, while free shuttle buses link Terminals 1 and 3 and serve the McCarran Rent-a-Car Center (%702-261-6001; www.mccarran.com/Transportation/RentalCars; 7135 Gillespie St; h24hr).
Shuttle buses run to Strip hotels from $6 one way, and from $8 to Downtown and off-Strip hotels. You’ll pay at least $15 plus tip for a taxi to the Strip – tell your driver to use surface streets, not the I-15 Fwy airport connector tunnel (‘long-hauling’). Rideshare service runs from $13.
Greyhound (map Google map) runs long-distance buses connecting Las Vegas with Reno ($81, 9½ hours) and Salt Lake City (from $40, eight hours), as well as regular discounted services to/from Los Angeles (from $20, five to eight hours). You’ll disembark at a downtown station just off the Fremont Street Experience. To reach the Strip, catch a south-bound SDX bus (two-hour pass $6). Megabus (www.megabus.com) runs daily direct routes from the South Strip Transfer Terminal (SSTT; %702-228-7433; www.rtcsnv.com; 6675 Gillespie St; h24hr) to three destinations in southern California: Los Angeles (from $19, six hours), Anaheim (from $15, 6½ hours) and Riverside (from $10, 4¼ hours). Book in advance for best rates.
Day passes on the 24-hour Deuce and faster (though not 24-hour and not servicing all casinos) SDX buses are an excellent way to get around.
Around Las Vegas
Lake Mead and Hoover Dam are the most visited sites within the Lake Mead National Recreation Area (%info desk 702-293-8906, visitor center 702-293-8990; www.nps.gov/lake; Lakeshore Scenic Dr; 7-day entry per vehicle $10; h24hr; c), which encompasses 110-mile-long Lake Mead, 67-mile-long Lake Mohave and many miles of desert around the lakes. The excellent Visitor Center (Alan Bible Visitor Center; %702-293-8990; www.nps.gov/lake; Lakeshore Scenic Dr, off US Hwy 93; per vehicle $25; h9am-4:30pm), on Hwy 93 halfway between Boulder City and Hoover Dam, has information on recreation and desert life. From there, North Shore Rd winds around the lake and makes a great scenic drive.
Straddling the Arizona–Nevada border, the graceful curve and art-deco style of the 726ft Hoover Dam (%866-730-9097, 702-494-2517; www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam; off Hwy 93; incl parking $10; h9am-5pm; c) contrasts superbly with the stark landscape. Don’t miss a stroll over the Mike O’Callaghan-Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge (Hwy 93), which features a pedestrian walkway with perfect views upstream of Hoover Dam.
For a relaxing lunch or dinner break, head to nearby downtown Boulder City, where Milo’s (%702-293-9540; www.milosbouldercity.com; 534 Nevada Hwy; mains $9-14; h11am-9pm) serves fresh sandwiches, salads and gourmet cheese plates at sidewalk tables outside the wine bar.
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation AreaNATURE RESERVE
(%702-515-5350; www.redrockcanyonlv.org; 1000 Scenic Loop Dr; car/bicycle $15/5; hscenic loop 6am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Mar & Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb; c)
Red Rock’s dramatic vistas are revered by Las Vegas locals and adored by visitors from around the world. Formed by extreme tectonic forces, it’s thought the canyon, whose 3000ft red rock escarpment rises sharply from the valley floor, was formed around 65 million years ago. A 13-mile, one-way scenic loop drive offers mesmerizing vistas of the canyon’s most striking features. Hiking trails and rock-climbing routes radiate from roadside parking areas.
The canyon is situated about 13 miles from the central Strip and just three miles from Summerlin.
Western Nevada
The state’s western corner, carved by the conifer-clad Sierra Nevada, drops off near Genoa. It’s a vast treeless steppe of sagebrush, unfurling itself like a plush green-gray carpet across the undulating plains of the Great Basin. From Lake Tahoe’s sandy shores to the historic hamlet of Virginia City, to little Reno, Burning Man, Black Rock and beyond, Western Nevada has plenty to entice you.
Reno
In downtown Reno you can gamble at one of two-dozen casinos in the morning then walk down the street and shoot rapids at the Truckee River Whitewater Park. That’s what makes ‘The Biggest Little City in the World’ so interesting – it’s holding tight to its gambling roots but also earning kudos as a top-notch basecamp for outdoor adventure. Stealing a piece of California’s tech-pie, the gargantuan Tesla Gigafactory opened here in 2016, bringing plenty of cashed-up youngsters to town. The Sierra Nevada Mountains and Lake Tahoe are less than an hour’s drive away, and the region teems with lakes, trails and ski resorts. Wedged between I-80 and the Truckee River, downtown’s N Virginia St is casino central; south of the river it continues as S Virginia St.
1Sights
oNational Automobile MuseumMUSEUM
(%775-333-9300; www.automuseum.org; 10 S Lake St; adult/child $12/6; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
Stylized street scenes illustrate a century’s worth of automobile history at this engaging car museum. The collection is enormous and impressive, with one-of-a-kind vehicles – including James Dean’s 1949 Mercury from Rebel Without a Cause, a 1938 Phantom Corsair and a 24-karat gold-plated DeLorean – and rotating exhibits with all kinds of souped-up and fabulously retro rides.
DiscoveryMUSEUM
(Terry Lee Wells Nevada Discovery Museum; %775-786-1000; www.nvdm.org; 490 S Center St; $10; h10am-5pm Tue, Thu-Sat, to 8pm Wed, from noon Sun; pc)
Since opening its doors in 2011 as a children’s museum, the Discovery rapidly grew in popularity and expanded its focus to become a world-class, hands-on center for ‘science, technology, engineering, art and math’ (STEAM) learning, with 11 permanent, participatory exhibitions designed to inspire kids and young adults to have fun and develop an interest in these disciplines.
Nevada Museum of ArtMUSEUM
(%775-329-3333; www.nevadaart.org; 160 W Liberty St; adult/child $10/1; h10am-5pm Wed & Fr-Sun, to 8pm Thu)
In a sparkling building inspired by the geological formations of the Black Rock Desert north of town, a floating staircase leads to galleries showcasing temporary exhibits and eclectic collections on the American West, labor and contemporary landscape photography. In 2016 the museum opened its $6.2-million Sky Room function area. Visitors are free to explore and enjoy the space – essentially a fabulous rooftop penthouse and patio with killer views – providing it’s not in use.
Galena Creek Recreation AreaNATURE RESERVE
(%775-849-4948; www.galenacreekvisitorcenter.org/trail-map.html; 18250 Mt Rose Hwy; h24hr) F
Nineteen miles from downtown Reno, a complex network of scenic hiking trails beginning at this recreation area within the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest gets you right into the heart of the wilderness. Check in with the Galena Creek Visitor Center (h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) when you arrive for the latest conditions and friendly advice.
RENO AREA TRAIL INFORMATION
For information about regional hiking and mountain-biking trails, including the Mt Rose summit trail and Tahoe-Pyramid Bikeway, download the Truckee Meadows Trails Guide (https://www.washoecounty.us/parks/files/TrailsGuideFinal.pdf).
2Activities
Reno is a 30- to 60-minute drive from Tahoe ski resorts. Many hotels and casinos offer special stay-and-ski packages.
Mere steps from the casinos, the class II and III rapids at the city-run Truckee River Whitewater Park (www.reno.gov) are gentle enough for kids riding inner tubes, yet sufficiently challenging for professional freestyle kayakers. Two courses wrap around Wingfield Park, a small river island that hosts free concerts in summertime. Tahoe Whitewater Tours (%775-787-5000; www.gowhitewater.com; 400 Island Ave; kayak rental from $48) and Sierra Adventures (%775-323-8928, 866-323-8928; www.wildsierra.com; Truckee River Lane; kayak rental from $22) offer kayak trips and lessons.
4Sleeping
Lodging rates vary widely, day by day. Sunday through Thursday are generally the best; Friday is more expensive and Saturday can be as much as triple the midweek rate.
In summer there’s gorgeous high-altitude camping at Mt Rose (%877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; Mt Rose Hwy/Hwy 431; RV & tent sites $20-50; hmid-Jun–Sep; ps).
Sands RegencyHOTEL$
(%775-348-2200; www.sandsregency.com; 345 N Arlington Ave; r from $35; paWs#)
The Sands Regency has some of the largest standard digs in town, decked out in a cheerful tropical palette of upbeat color. Empress Tower rooms are best. Rates triple on Friday and Saturday nights, but are great value during the week (especially given the 17th-floor gym and outdoor pool).
oWhitney PeakDESIGN HOTEL$$
(%775-398-5400; www.whitneypeakhotel.com; 255 N Virginia St; d from $129; paW) S
What’s not to love about this independent, inventive, funky, friendly, nonsmoking, non-gambling downtown hotel? Spacious guest rooms have a youthful, fun vibe celebrating the great outdoors and don’t skimp on designer creature comforts. With an executive-level concierge lounge, an external climbing wall (if you’re game), a decent on-site restaurant and friendly, professional staff, Whitney Peak is unbeatable in Reno.
Renaissance Reno DowntownHOTEL$$
(%775-682-3900; www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/rnobr-renaissance-reno-downtown-hotel; 1 Lake St; r from $135; pWs)
It’s part of a hotel group, but you could be forgiven for thinking it’s a boutique hotel (in fact, it used to be). Renovated, oversized guest rooms follow a contemporary theme that’s reminiscent of a stylish friend’s cozy living room. With the best rooftop pool in town, this is a smart alternative to casino hotels.
5Eating
oGreat Full GardensHEALTH FOOD$
(%775-324-2013; 555 S Virginia St; bowls from $10; h8am-9pm, to 2pm Sun; pv)
Extensive menu chock-full of salads, smoothies and sandwiches that will make you feel healthy enough to justify another cocktail later on. Delicious grain bowls are categorized by lifestyle choice (vegan, paleo, macrobiotic). Chili fiends should not miss the housemade hot sauce.
Gold ‘n Silver InnDINER$
(%775-323-2696; www.goldnsilverreno.com; 790 W 4th St; mains $6-20; h24hr)
A Reno institution for more than 50 years, this slightly divey but super-friendly 24-hour diner has a huge menu of home-style American favorites such as meatloaf, plated dinners, all-day breakfasts and burgers, not to mention seriously incredible caramel milkshakes.
Louis’ Basque CornerBASQUE$$
(%775-323-7203; www.louisbasquecorner.com; 301 E 4th St; dinner menu $12-29; h11am-9:30pm Tue-Sat, from 4pm Sun & Mon)
Get ready to dine on lamb, rabbit, sweetbreads and more lamb at a big table full of people you’ve never met before. After a picon punch you’ll be getting along like vieux amis.
Wild River GrilleGRILL$$
(%775-847-455; www.wildrivergrille.com; 17 S Virginia St; mains $21-37; h11am-9pm; v)
At the Wild River Grille you’ll love the smart-casual dining and the varied menu of creative cuisine, from the Gruyère croquettes to the lobster ravioli, but most of all the wonderful patio overlooking the lovely Truckee River: it’s also the best spot in town for a drink on a balmy summer’s evening.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oImperial Bar & LoungeBAR
(%775-324-6399; www.imperialbarandlounge.com; 150 N Arlington Ave; h11am-10pm, to 2am Fri & Sat)
A classy bar inhabiting a relic of the past – this building was once an old bank, and in the middle of the wood floor you can see cement where the vault once stood. Sandwiches and pizzas go with 16 beers on tap and a buzzing happy-hour scene (3pm to 6pm).
3Entertainment
The free weekly Reno News & Review (www.newsreview.com) is your best source for listings.
8Information
Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority Visitor Center (%775-682-3800; www.visitrenotahoe.com; 135 N Sierra St; h9am-6pm)
8Getting There & Around
About 5 miles southeast of downtown, Reno-Tahoe International Airport (RNO; www.renoairport.com; W) is served by most major airlines, with connections throughout the US to international routes.
The North Lake Tahoe Express (%866-216-5222; www.northlaketahoeexpress.com; one way $49) operates a shuttle (six to eight daily, 3:30am to midnight) to and from the airport to multiple North Shore Lake Tahoe locations. The South Tahoe Airporter (%866-898-2463; www.southtahoeairporter.com; adult/child one way $33/20) operates several daily shuttle buses from the airport to Stateline casinos.
Greyhound (%800-231-2222; www.greyhound.com) offers several direct buses a day to Reno from San Francisco (from $18, from five hours): book in advance for lowest fares.
The Amtrak (%800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) California Zephyr train makes one daily departure from Emeryville/San Francisco ($55, 7½) to Reno.
The local RTC Washoe (%775-348-0400; www.rtcwashoe.com) operates six wi-fi-equipped RTC Intercity buses each weekday to Carson City ($5, one hour), which loosely connect with BlueGo buses – operated by Tahoe Transportation District (%775-589-5500; www.tahoetransportation.org) – to the Stateline Transit Center in South Lake Tahoe (adult/child $4/2 with RTC Intercity transfer, one hour).
WORTH A TRIP
BURNING MAN
Burning Man (https://burningman.org; $425; hAug) For a week in August, ‘Burners’ from around the world descend on the Black Rock Desert to build the temporary Black Rock City, only to tear it all down again and set fire to an effigy of man. In between, there’s peace, love, music, art, nakedness, drugs, sex and frivolity in a safe space where attendees uphold the principles of the festival.
The Great Basin
A trip across Nevada’s Great Basin is a serene, almost haunting experience. Anyone seeking the ‘Great American Road Trip’ will relish the fascinating historic towns and quirky diversions tucked away along lonely desert highways.
Along Highway 50
The transcontinental Hwy 50 cuts across the heart of Nevada, connecting Carson City in the west to Great Basin National Park in the east. Better known here by its nickname, ‘The Loneliest Road in America,’ it once formed part of the Lincoln Hwy, and follows the route of the Overland Stagecoach, the Pony Express and the first transcontinental telegraph line. Towns are few, and the only sounds are the hum of the engine or the whisper of wind.
About 25 miles southeast of Fallon, the Sand Mountain Recreation Area (%775-885-6000; www.blm.gov/nv; 7-day permit $40, Tue & Wed free; h24hr; p) is worth a stop for a look at its 600ft sand dune and the ruins of a Pony Express station. Just east, enjoy a juicy burger at an old stagecoach stop, Middlegate Station (%775-423-7134; www.facebook.com/middlegate.station; 42500 Austin Hwy, cnr Hwys 50 & 361; mains $6-17; h6am-2am) then toss your sneakers onto the Shoe Tree on the north side of Hwy 50 just ahead.
A fitting reward for surviving Hwy 50 is the awesome, uncrowded Great Basin National Park (%775-234-7331; www.nps.gov/grba; 100 Great Basin; h24hr) F. Near the Nevada–Utah border, it’s home to 13,063ft Wheeler Peak, which rises abruptly from the desert. Hiking trails near the summit take in superb country with glacial lakes, ancient bristlecone pines and even a permanent ice field. Admission is free; in summer, you can get oriented at the Lehman Caves Visitor Center (www.nps.gov/grba; 5500 W Hwy 488, Baker; h8am-4:30pm), just north of Baker. Stargazing is fantastic from the park’s campgrounds.
If you want a roof over your head, try the Stargazer Inn (%775-234-7323; stay@stargazernevada.com; 115 S Baker Ave, Baker, Hwy 50; r from $78; pnaW#) S, a revamped roadside motel in Baker. The inn is also home to Kerouac’s (%775-234-7323; 115 S Baker Rd, Baker; pizzas from $12; h7-10am & 5-8:30pm Apr-Oct; pa), known for its wood-fired pizzas and inventive cocktails.
Along Highways 375 & 93
Hwy 375 is dubbed the ‘Extraterrestrial Hwy’, both for its huge number of UFO sightings and because it intersects Hwy 93 near top secret Area 51, part of Nellis Air Force Base, supposedly a holding area for captured UFOs. Some people may find Hwy 375 more unnerving than the Loneliest Road; it’s a desolate stretch of pavement where cars are few and far between. In the tiny town of Rachel, on Hwy 375, Little A’Le’ Inn (%775-729-2515; www.littlealeinn.com; 9631 Old Mill St, Rachel; RV sites $20, r $45-190; hrestaurant 8am-10pm; aW#) accommodates earthlings and aliens alike, and sells extraterrestrial souvenirs. Probings not included.