2City Walk
SF by Cable Car
START POWELL ST CABLE CAR TURNAROUND
END FERRY BUILDING
LENGTH 2 MILES; TWO HOURS
The ultimate SF joyride is in a cable car. At the 1Powell St Cable Car Turnaround, you’ll see operators turn the car atop a revolving wooden platform, and a vintage kiosk where you can buy an all-day Muni Passport for $23. Board the red-signed Powell-Hyde cable car and begin your 338ft ascent of Nob Hill.
Nineteenth-century city planners were sceptical of inventor Andrew Hallidie’s ‘wire-rope railway’ – but after more than a century of near-continuous operation, his wire-and-hemp cables have seldom broken. Hallidie’s cable cars even survived the 1906 earthquake and fire that destroyed ‘Snob Hill’ mansions, returning the faithful to the rebuilt 2Grace Cathedral – hop off to say hello to SF’s gentle patron St Francis.
Back on the Powell-Hyde car, enjoy Bay views as you careen past crooked, flower-lined 3Lombard Street toward 4Fisherman’s Wharf. The waterfront terminus is named for ‘Cable Car Lady’ Friedel Klussmann, who saved cable cars from mayoral modernization plans in 1947.
At the wharf, emerge from the submarine 5USS Pampanito to glimpse SF with the joyous relief of a WWII sailor on shore leave. Witness Western saloon brawls in vintage arcade games at the 6Musée Mécanique before hitching the Powell-Mason cable car to North Beach.
Hop off to see Diego Rivera’s 1934 cityscape at the 7San Francisco Art Institute, or follow your rumbling stomach directly to 8Liguria Bakery. Stroll through North Beach and Chinatown alleyways, or take the Powell-Mason line to time-travel through the 9Chinese Historical Society of America. Nearby, catch a ride on the city’s oldest line: the California St cable car. The terminus is near the aFerry Building, where champagne-and-oyster happy hour awaits.
5Eating
5Downtown, Civic Center & SoMa
Ferry Plaza Farmers MarketMARKET$
(map Google map; 
%415-291-3276; www.cuesa.org; cnr Market St & the Embarcadero; street food $3-12; 
h10am-2pm Tue & Thu, from 8am Sat; 
v
c; 
g2, 6, 9, 14, 21, 31, 
mEmbarcadero, 
ZEmbarcadero) 
S
The pride and joy of SF foodies, the Ferry Building market showcases more than 100 prime purveyors of California-grown organic produce, pasture-raised meats and gourmet prepared foods at accessible prices. On Saturdays, join top chefs early for prime browsing, and stay for eclectic bayside picnics of Namu Korean tacos, RoliRoti porchetta, Dirty Girl tomatoes, Nicasio cheese samples and Frog Hollow fruit turnovers.
farm:tableAMERICAN$
(map Google map; %415-300-5652; www.farmtablesf.com; 754 Post St; dishes $6-9; h7:15am-1pm Tue-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat & Sun; v; g2, 3, 27, 38) S
A ray of sunshine in the concrete heart of the city, this plucky little storefront showcases seasonal California organics in just-baked breakfasts and farmstead-fresh lunches. Daily specials include a rotation of homemade cereals, savory tarts and game-changing toast – mmmm, ginger peach and mascarpone on whole-wheat sourdough! Tiny space, but immaculate kitchen and great coffee.
oIn SituCALIFORNIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; http://insitu.sfmoma.org; 151 3rd St, SFMOMA; mains $20-50; h11am-3:30pm Thu-Mon, 5-9pm Thu-Sat, 11am-3:30pm & 5-8pm Sun; g5, 6, 7, 14, 19, 21, 31, 38, ZMontgomery, mMontgomery)
The landmark gallery of modern cuisine attached to SFMOMA also showcases avant-garde masterpieces – but these ones you’ll lick clean. Chef Corey Lee collaborates with more than 100 star chefs worldwide, scrupulously re-creating their signature dishes with California-grown ingredients so that you can enjoy Nathan Myhrvold’s caramelized carrot soup, Tim Raue’s wasabi lobster and Albert Adrià’s Jasper Hill Farm cheesecake in one unforgettable sitting.
oBenuCALIFORNIAN, FUSION$$$
(map Google map; %415-685-4860; www.benusf.com; 22 Hawthorne St; tasting menu $310; h5:30-8:30pm Tue-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; g10, 12, 14, 30, 45)
SF has pioneered Asian fusion cuisine for 150 years, but the pan-Pacific innovation chef-owner Corey Lee brings to the plate is gasp-inducing: foie-gras soup dumplings – what?! Dungeness crab and truffle custard pack such outsize flavor into Lee’s faux-shark’s-fin soup, you’ll swear Jaws is in there. A Benu dinner is an investment, but don’t miss star sommelier Yoon Ha’s ingenious pairings ($210). There’s a 20% service charge.
5North Beach & Chinatown
oLiguria BakeryBAKERY$
(map Google map; %415-421-3786; 1700 Stockton St; focaccia $4-6; h8am-2pm Tue-Fri, 7am-2pm Sat, 7am-noon Sun; vc; g8, 30, 39, 41, 45, 
jPowell-Mason, mT)
Bleary-eyed art students and Italian grandmothers line up by 8am for cinnamon-raisin focaccia hot out of the 100-year-old oven, leaving 9am dawdlers a choice of tomato or classic rosemary and garlic. Latecomers, beware: when they run out, they close. Take yours in waxed paper or boxed for picnics – just don’t kid yourself that you’re going to save some for later. Cash only.
oGolden BoyPIZZA$
(map Google map; %415-982-9738; www.goldenboypizza.com; 542 Green St; slices $3.25-4.25; h11:30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; g8, 30, 39, 41, 45, jPowell-Mason)
‘If you don’t see it don’t ask 4 it’ reads the menu – Golden Boy has kept punks in line since 1978, serving Genovese focaccia-crust pizza that’s chewy, crunchy and hot from the oven. You’ll have whatever second-generation Sodini family pizzaioli (pizza-makers) are making and like it – especially pesto and clam-and-garlic. Grab square slices and draft beer at the bomb-shelter counter.
oMister Jiu’sCHINESE, CALIFORNIAN$$
(map Google map; %415-857-9688; http://misterjius.com; 28 Waverly Pl; mains $14-45; h5:30-10:30pm Tue-Sat; g30, jCalifornia, mT)
Success has been celebrated in this historic Chinatown banquet hall since the 1880s – but today, scoring a table at Mister Jiu’s is reason enough for celebration. Build memorable banquets from chef Brandon Jew’s ingenious Chinese/Californian signatures: quail and Mission-fig sticky rice, hot and sour Dungeness crab soup, Wagyu sirloin and tuna heart fried rice. Don’t skip dessert – pastry chef Melissa Chou’s salted plum sesame balls are flavor bombs.
oGood Mong KokDIM SUM$
(map Google map; %415-397-2688; 1039 Stockton St; dumpling orders $2-5; h7am-6pm; g30, 45, jPowell-Mason, California, mT)
Ask Chinatown neighbors about their go-to dim sum and the answer is either grandma’s or Good Mong Kok. Lines snake out the door of this counter bakery for dumplings whisked from vast steamers into takeout containers to enjoy in Portsmouth Sq. The menu changes by the minute/hour, but expect classic pork siu mai, shrimp har gow and BBQ pork buns; BYO chili sauce and black vinegar.
5The Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf & Presidio
Fisherman’s Wharf Crab StandsSEAFOOD$
(map Google map; Taylor St; mains $5-22; mF)
Men and women in rolled-up sleeves stir steaming cauldrons of Dungeness crab at several side-by-side takeout crab stands at the foot of Taylor St, the epicenter of Fisherman’s Wharf. Crab season typically runs winter through spring, but you’ll find shrimp and other seafood year-round.
oKaiyoFUSION$$
(map Google map; %415-525-4804; https://kaiyosf.com; 1838 Union St; small plates $12-28, share plates $19-28; h5-10pm Tue, Wed & Sun, to 11pm Thu & Sat, 10:30am-3pm Sat & Sun; g41, 45)
For a deliciously deep dive into the cuisine of the Japanese-Peruvian diaspora, head to Cow Hollow’s most playful and inventive new restaurant, where the Pisco and whiskey cocktails are named for anime characters and a neon-green moss wall runs the length of the izakaya-style dining room. But the real adventure is the food.
GreensVEGETARIAN, CALIFORNIAN$$
(map Google map; %415-771-6222; www.greensrestaurant.com; 2 Marina Blvd, Bldg A, Fort Mason Center; mains $18-28; h5:30-9pm Mon, 11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-9pm Tue-Thu, 11:30am-2:30pm & 5-9pm Fri, 10:30am-2:30pm & 5-9pm Sat & Sun; vc; g22, 28, 30, 43, 47, 49) S
Career carnivores won’t realize there’s zero meat in the hearty black-bean chili, or in Greens’ other flavor-packed vegetarian dishes, made using ingredients from a Zen farm in Marin. And, oh, what views! The Golden Gate rises just outside the window-lined dining room. The on-site cafe serves to-go lunches, but for sit-down meals, including Saturday and Sunday brunch, reservations are recommended.
oAtelier CrennFRENCH$$$
(map Google map; %415-440-0460; www.ateliercrenn.com; 3127 Fillmore St; tasting menu $335; h5-9pm Tue-Sat; g22, 28, 30, 43)
The menu arrives in the form of a poem and then come the signature white chocolate spheres filled with a burst of apple cider. If this seems an unlikely start to a meal, just wait for the geoduck rice tart in a glass dome frosted by liquid nitrogen, and about a dozen more plates inspired by the childhood of chef Dominique Crenn in Brittany, France.
5The Mission & the Castro
oLa Palma MexicatessenMEXICAN$
(map Google map; %415-647-1500; www.lapalmasf.com; 2884 24th St; tamales, tacos & huaraches $3-10; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; v; g12, 14, 27, 48, Z24th St Mission) S
Follow the applause: that’s the sound of organic tortilla-making in progress. You’ve found the Mission mother lode of handmade tamales, and pupusas (tortilla pockets) with potato and chicharones (pork crackling), carnitas (slow-roasted pork), cotija (Oaxacan cheese) and La Palma’s own tangy tomatillo sauce. Get takeout or bring a small army to finish the meal at sunny sidewalk tables.
oAl’s PlaceCALIFORNIAN$$
(map Google map; %415-416-6136; www.alsplacesf.com; 1499 Valencia St; share plates $15-21; h5:30-10pm Wed-Sun; v; g12, 14, 49, mJ, Z24th St Mission) S
The Golden State dazzles on Al’s plates, featuring homegrown heirloom ingredients, pristine Pacific seafood and grass-fed meat. Painstaking preparation yields sun-drenched flavors and exquisite textures: crispy-skin cod with frothy preserved-lime dip, and grilled peach melting into velvety foie gras. Dishes are half the size but thrice the flavor of mains elsewhere – get two or three and you’ll be California dreaming.
FrancesCALIFORNIAN$$$
(map Google map; %415-621-3870; www.frances-sf.com; 3870 17th St; mains $26-34; h5-10pm Sun & Tue-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat; g24, 33, mF, K, L, M) S
Rebel chef-owner Melissa Perello earned a Michelin star for fine dining, then ditched downtown to start this market-inspired neighborhood bistro. Daily menus showcase rustic flavors and luxurious textures with impeccable technique – handmade ricotta malfatti pasta with buttery squash and crunchy pepitas, juicy pork chops with blood orange and earthy Japanese sweet potatoes – plus cult wine served by the ounce, directly from Wine Country.
5The Haight
oBrenda’s Meat & ThreeSOUTHERN US$$
(map Google map; %415-926-8657; http://brendasmeatandthree.com; 919 Divisadero St; mains $9-20; h8am-10pm Wed-Mon; g5, 21, 24, 38)
The name means one meaty main course plus three sides – though only superheroes finish ham steak with Creole red-eye gravy and grits, let alone cream biscuits and eggs. Chef Brenda Buenviaje’s portions are defiantly Southern, which explains brunch lines of marathoners and partiers who forgot to eat last night. Arrive early, share sweet-potato pancakes, and pray for crawfish specials.
Rich TableCALIFORNIAN$$
(map Google map; %415-355-9085; http://richtablesf.com; 199 Gough St; mains $17-37; h5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat; g5, 6, 7, 21, 47, 49, mVan Ness) S
Impossible cravings begin at Rich Table, where mind-bending dishes like porcini doughnuts, sardine chips, and burrata (mozzarella and cream) funnel cake blow up Instagram feeds nightly. Married co-chefs and owners Sarah and Evan Rich riff on seasonal San Francisco cuisine with the soul of SFJAZZ stars and the ingenuity of Silicon Valley regulars.
5Golden Gate Park & Around
oArsicault BakeryBAKERY$
(map Google map; %415-750-9460; 397 Arguello Blvd; pastries $3-7; h7am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, to 3:30pm Sat & Sun; g1, 2, 33, 38, 44)
Armando Lacayo left his job in finance because he, like his Parisian grandparents before him, was obsessed with making croissants. After perfecting his technique, Lacayo opened a modest bakery in the Inner Richmond in 2015. Within a year, Bon Appétit magazine had declared it the best new bakery in America and the golden, flaky, buttery croissants regularly sell out.
oSpruceCALIFORNIAN$$$
(map Google map; %415-931-5100; www.sprucesf.com; 3640 Sacramento St; mains $19-44; h11:30am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-2pm & 5-11pm Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-11pm Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-9pm Sun; g1, 2, 33, 43) S
VIP all the way: Baccarat crystal chandeliers, tawny leather chairs, rotating art collections and 2500 wines. Ladies who lunch dispense with polite conversation, tearing into grass-fed burgers on house-baked English muffins loaded with pickled onions and heirloom tomatoes grown on the restaurant’s own organic farm. Want fries with that? Oh, yes, you do: Spruce’s are cooked in duck fat.
6Drinking & Nightlife
San Francisco set the gold standard for Wild West saloons, until drinking was driven underground in the 1920s with Prohibition. Today San Francisco celebrates its historic saloons and speakeasies – and with Wine Country and local distillers providing a steady supply of America’s finest hooch, the West still gets wild nightly.
oBourbon & BranchBAR
(map Google map; %415-346-1735; www.bourbonandbranch.com; 501 Jones St; h6pm-2am; g27, 38)
‘Don’t even think of asking for a cosmo’ reads the House Rules at this Prohibition-era speakeasy, recognizable by its deliciously misleading Anti-Saloon League sign. For award-winning cocktails in the liquored-up library, whisper the password (‘books’) at the O’Farrell entrance. Reservations required for front-room booths and Wilson & Wilson Detective Agency, the noir-themed speakeasy-within-a-speakeasy (password supplied with reservations).
oComstock SaloonBAR
(map Google map; %415-617-0071; www.comstocksaloon.com; 155 Columbus Ave; h4pm-midnight Mon, to 2am Tue-Thu, noon-2am Fri, 11:30am-2am Sat, 11:30am-4pm Sun; g8, 10, 12, 30, 45, jPowell-Mason, mT)
During this 1907 saloon’s heyday, patrons relieved themselves in the marble trough below the bar – now you’ll have to tear yourself away from Comstock’s authentic pisco punch and martini-precursor Martinez (gin, vermouth, bitters, maraschino liqueur). Arrive to toast Emperor Norton’s statue at happy hour (4pm to 6pm) and stay for the family meal (whatever kitchen staff’s eating). Reserve booths to hear when ragtime-jazz bands play.
oLi PoBAR
(map Google map; %415-982-0072; www.lipolounge.com; 916 Grant Ave; h2pm-2am; g8, 30, 45, jPowell-Mason, Powell-Hyde, mT)
Beat a hasty retreat to red-vinyl booths where Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac debated the meaning of life under a golden Buddha. Enter the 1937 faux-grotto doorway and dodge red lanterns to place your order: Tsingtao beer or a sweet, sneaky-strong Chinese mai tai made with baijiu (rice liquor). Brusque bartenders, basement bathrooms, cash only – a world-class dive bar.
Stookey’s Club ModerneLOUNGE
(map Google map; www.stookeysclubmoderne.com; 895 Bush St; h4:30pm-2am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; g1, jPowell-Hyde, Powell-Mason, California)
Dangerous dames lure unsuspecting sailors into late-night schemes over potent hooch at this art-deco bar straight out of a Dashiell Hammett thriller. Chrome-lined 1930s Streamline Moderne decor sets the scene for intrigue, and wisecracking white-jacketed bartenders shake the stiffest Corpse Reviver cocktails in town. Arrive early to find room on the hat rack for your fedora, especially on live jazz nights.
Trick DogBAR
(map Google map; %415-471-2999; www.trickdogbar.com; 3010 20th St; h3pm-2am; g12, 14, 49)
Drink adventurously with ingenious cocktails inspired by local obsessions: San Francisco muralists, Chinese diners or conspiracy theories. Every six months, Trick Dog adopts a new theme and the menu changes – proof you can teach an old dog new tricks and improve on classics like the Manhattan. Arrive early for bar stools or hit the mood-lit loft for high-concept bar bites.
20 SpotWINE BAR
(map Google map; %415-624-3140; www.20spot.com; 3565 20th St; h5-11pm Mon-Thu, to 12:30am Fri & Sat; g14, 22, 33, Z16th St Mission)
Find your California mellow at this neighborhood wine lounge in an 1885 Victorian building. After decades as Force of Habit punk-record shop – note the vintage sign – this corner joint has earned the right to unwind with a glass of Berkeley’s Donkey and Goat sparkling wine and not get any guff. Caution: oysters with pickled persimmon could become a habit.
LGBTIQ+ SF
It doesn’t matter where you’re from, who you love or who’s your daddy: if you’re here and queer, welcome home. The Castro is the heart of the gay cruising scene, but raging dance clubs and leather bars can be found in SoMa. Head to the Tenderloin for trans venues and queer cabaret, or the Mission for women’s bars, arts venues and community spaces.
SF Pride (hJun) month is undoubtedly the biggest event on the calendar, with over 1.5 million people hitting parades and parties. While you’re in town, check out America’s first gay-history museum, GLBT History Museum (map Google map; %415-621-1107; www.glbthistory.org/museum; 4127 18th St; $5, 1st Wed of month free; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun, closed Tue fall-spring; mCastro St), which showcases a century of San Francisco LGBTQ+ ephemera, or get to know LGBT icons as you walk through the Castro following the Rainbow Honor Walk (map Google map; http://rainbowhonorwalk.org; Castro St & Market St; mCastro St).
The Bay Area Reporter (www.ebar.com) is released every Wednesday and has community news and events, or grab a copy of the San Francisco Bay Times (http://sfbaytimes.com). The free Gloss Magazine (www.glossmagazine.net) locks down nightlife and parties. Or head to the following:
Aunt Charlie’s Lounge (map Google map; %415-441-2922; www.auntcharlieslounge.com; 133 Turk St; cover free-$5; hnoon-midnight Mon & Wed, to 2am Tue & Thu, to 12:30am Fri, 10am-12:30am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; g27, 31, mPowell, ZPowell) Knock-down, drag-out winner for gender-bending shows and dance-floor freakiness in a tiny space.
El Rio (map Google map; %415-282-3325; www.elriosf.com; 3158 Mission St; cover free-$10; h1pm-2am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; g12, 14, 27, 49, Z24th St Mission) Mix it up with world music, salsa, house, live bands and SF’s flirtiest patio.
Stud (map Google map; %415-863-6623; www.studsf.com; 399 9th St; cover $5-8; h5pm-2am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri, 7pm-4am Sat, 7pm-2am Sun; g12, 19, 27, 47) Shows and DJs nightly, plus the tantalizing aroma of bourbon, cologne and testosterone.
Oasis (map; %415-795-3180; www.sfoasis.com; 298 11th St; tickets $15-35; g9, 12, 14, 47, mVan Ness) SF’s dedicated drag venue, hostessed by SF drag icons Heklinka and D’Arcy Drollinger.
Jolene’s (map Google map; %415-913-7948; http://jolenessf.com; 2700 16th St; h4pm-2am Thu-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; g12, 22, 55, Z16th Mission St) Women on the dance floor, at the bar, all over the wallpaper, right at home.
Wild Side West (map Google map; %415-647-3099; www.wildsidewest.com; 424 Cortland Ave; h2pm-2am; g24) Cheers to queers and beers in the herstory-making sculpture garden.
3Entertainment
Sign up at Gold Star Events (www.goldstarevents.com) for discounts on comedy, theater, concerts and opera, or stop by the TIX Bay Area (map Google map; %415-433-7827; http://tixbayarea.org; 350 Powell St; jPowell-Mason, Powell-Hyde, ZPowell, mPowell) Union Sq ticket booth for cheap tickets for same-day or next-day shows.
oSan Francisco SymphonyCLASSICAL MUSIC
(map Google map; %box office 415-864-6000, rush-ticket hotline 415-503-5577; www.sfsymphony.org; Grove St, btwn Franklin St & Van Ness Ave; tickets $20-150; g21, 45, 47, mVan Ness, ZCivic Center)
From the moment conductor Michael Tilson Thomas bounces up on his toes and raises his baton, the audience is on the edge of their seats for another thunderous performance by the Grammy-winning SF Symphony. Don’t miss signature concerts of Beethoven and Mahler, live symphony performances with such films as Star Trek, and creative collaborations with artists from Elvis Costello to Metallica.
oSFJAZZ CenterJAZZ
(map Google map; %866-920-5299; www.sfjazz.org; 201 Franklin St; tickets $25-120; c; g5, 6, 7, 21, 47, 49, mVan Ness) S
Jazz legends and singular talents from Argentina to Yemen are showcased at North America’s newest, largest jazz center. Hear fresh takes on classic jazz albums and poets riffing with jazz combos in the downstairs Joe Henderson Lab, and witness extraordinary main-stage collaborations by legendary Afro-Cuban All Stars, raucous all-women mariachis Flor de Toluache, and Balkan barnstormers Goran Bregović and his Wedding and Funeral Orchestra.
oFillmore AuditoriumLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; %415-346-6000; http://thefillmore.com; 1805 Geary Blvd; tickets from $20; hbox office 10am-3pm Sun, plus 30min before doors open to 10pm show nights; g22, 38)
Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, the Grateful Dead – they all played the Fillmore and the upstairs bar is lined with vintage psychedelic posters to prove it. Bands that sell out stadiums keep rocking this historic, 1250-capacity dance hall, and for major shows, free posters are still handed out. To squeeze up to the stage, be polite and lead with the hip.
oCastro TheatreCINEMA
(map Google map; %415-621-6120; www.castrotheatre.com; 429 Castro St; adult/child, senior & matinee $13/10; mCastro St)
Every night at the Castro, crowds roar as the mighty organ rises – and no, that’s not a euphemism. Showtime at this 1922 art deco movie palace is heralded with Wurlitzer organ show tunes, culminating in sing-alongs to the Judy Garland anthem ‘San Francisco.’ Architect Timothy Pflueger’s OTT Spanish-Moorish-Asian style inspired the Wizard of Oz sets, but earthquake-shy San Franciscans avoid sitting under his pointy metal chandelier.
oGiants StadiumBASEBALL
(map Google map; AT&T Park; %415-972-2000, tours 415-972-2400; http://sanfrancisco.giants.mlb.com; 24 Willie Mays Plaza; tickets $14-349, stadium tour adult/senior/child $22/17/12; htour times vary; c; mN, T)
Baseball fans roar April to October at the Giants’ 81 home games. As any orange-blooded San Franciscan will remind you, the Giants have won three World Series since 2010 – and you’ll know the Giants are on another winning streak when superstitious locals wear team colors (orange and black) and bushy beards (the Giants’ rallying cry is ‘Fear the Beard!’).
Great American Music HallLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; %415-885-0750; www.gamh.com; 859 O’Farrell St; shows $20-45; hbox office noon-6pm Mon-Fri, 5pm-close on show nights; c; g19, 38, 47, 49)
Everyone busts out their best sets at this opulent 1907 bordello turned all-ages venue – indie rockers like the Band Perry throw down, international legends such as Salif Keita grace the stage, and John Waters hosts Christmas extravaganzas. Pay $25 extra for dinner with prime balcony seating to watch shows comfortably, or rock out with the standing-room scrum downstairs.
San Francisco BalletDANCE
(map Google map; %tickets 415-865-2000; www.sfballet.org; 301 Van Ness Ave, War Memorial Opera House; tickets $22-150; hticket sales over the phone 10am-4pm Mon-Fri; g5, 21, 47, 49, mVan Ness, ZCivic Center)
The USA’s oldest ballet company is looking sharp in more than 100 shows annually, from The Nutcracker (the US premiere was here) to modern originals. Performances are at the War Memorial Opera House from January to May, and you can score $15 to $20 same-day standing-room tickets at the box office (open four hours before curtain on performance days only).
SAN FRANCISCO FOR CHILDREN
San Francisco has the fewest kids per capita of any US city, yet many locals make a living entertaining kids – from Pixar animators to video-game designers – and this town is full of attractions for young people.
Hit the award-winning, hands-on exhibits at the Exploratorium to investigate the science of skateboarding and glow-in-the-dark animals, then free the world from Space Invaders at Musée Mécanique (map Google map; %415-346-2000; www.museemecanique.com; Pier 45, Shed A; h10am-8pm; c; g47, jPowell-Mason, Powell-Hyde, mE, F). Don’t be shy: bark back at the sea lions at Pier 39, and ride a unicorn on the pier’s vintage San Francisco carousel (map Google map; www.pier39.com; Pier 39; 1 ride $5, 3 rides $10; h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; c; g47, jPowell-Mason, mE, F).
Chase butterflies through the rainforest dome, pet starfish in the petting zoo and squeal in the Eel Forest at the California Academy of Sciences, or brave the shark tunnel at Aquarium of the Bay (map Google map; %415-623-5300; www.aquariumofthebay.org; Pier 39; adult/child/family $28/18/75; h10am-8pm late May-early Sep, shorter hours rest of year; c; g47, jPowell-Mason, mE, F). The Children’s Creativity Museum (map Google map; %415-820-3320; http://creativity.org/; 221 4th St; $12.95; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun summer, Wed-Sun rest of year; c; g14, mPowell, ZPowell) allows future tech moguls to design their own video games and animations, then let off some steam at the playgrounds in Golden Gate Park (Koret Children’s Quarter; map; %415-831-2700; www.golden-gate-park.com/childrens-playground.html; carousel per ride adult/child $2/1; hsunrise-sunset, carousel 10am-4:15pm; c; g7, 33, mN), Dolores Park (map Google map; http://sfrecpark.org/destination/mission-dolores-park; Dolores St, btwn 18th & 20th Sts; h6am-10pm; c
#; g14, 33, 49, Z16th St Mission, mJ) or Yerba Buena Gardens (map Google map; %415-820-3550; www.yerbabuenagardens.com; cnr 3rd & Mission Sts; h6am-10pm; c; mMontgomery, ZMontgomery).
7Shopping
oPark LifeGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(map Google map; %415-386-7275; www.parklifestore.com; 220 Clement St; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; g1, 2, 33, 38, 44)
The Swiss Army knife of hip SF emporiums, Park Life is design store, indie publisher and art gallery rolled into one. Browse among presents too clever to give away, including toy soldiers in yoga poses, Park Life catalogs of Shaun O’Dell paintings of natural disorder, sinister Todd Hido photos of shaggy cats on shag rugs, and a Picasso bong.
oCommunity ThriftCLOTHING
(map Google map; %415-861-4910; www.communitythriftsf.org; 623 Valencia St; h10am-6:30pm; g14, 22, 33, 49, Z16th St Mission) S
When local collectors and retailers have too much of a good thing, they donate it to nonprofit Community Thrift, where proceeds go to 200-plus local charities – all the more reason to gloat over your $5 totem-pole teacup, $10 vintage windbreaker and $14 disco-era glitter romper. Donate your cast-offs (until 5pm daily) and show some love to the Community.
Adobe Books & Backroom GalleryBOOKS
(map Google map; %415-864-3936; www.adobebooks.com; 3130 24th St; hnoon-8pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; g12, 14, 48, 49, Z24th St Mission)
Wall-to-wall inspiration – including just-released fiction, limited-edition art books, rare cookbooks, well-thumbed poetry – plus zine-launch parties, comedy nights and art openings. Mingle with Mission characters debating all-time-greatest pulp-fiction covers and SF history (founder Andrew is a whiz) and see SF artists at the Backroom Gallery (well worth the walk to the back of the store) before they hit Whitney Biennials.
Gravel & GoldHOMEWARES
(map Google map; %415-552-0112; www.gravelandgold.com; 3266 21st St; hnoon-7pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; g12, 14, 49, Z24th St Mission) S
Get back to the land and in touch with California’s roots without leaving sight of a Mission sidewalk. Gravel & Gold celebrates California’s hippie homesteader movement with hand-printed smock-dresses, signature boob-print totes and wiggly stoner-striped throw pillows. It’s homestead California-style with hand-thrown stoneware mugs, Risograph posters and rare books on ‘70s beach-shack architecture – plus DIY maker workshops (see website).
Hero ShopFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(map Google map; %415-829-3129; http://heroshopsf.com; 982 Post St; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; g2, 3, 19, 27, 38, 47, 49)
On the cutting edge of the Tenderloin, Hero transforms casual browsers into SF fashionistas with statement pieces by rising-star local designers: Stevie Howell’s boho silk tunics, Future Glory’s handmade marbled-leather handbags, Culk’s souvenir sweatshirts. It’s no accident Hero’s selection seems unusually well edited – owner Emily Holt left her job as Vogue’s fashion-trend editor to open this boutique.
SAN FRANCISCO’S BEST SHOPPING AREAS
All those tricked-out dens, well-stocked spice racks and fabulous ensembles don’t just pull themselves together – San Franciscans scour their city for them. Here’s where to find what:
Polk Street Vintage looks, local art, indie designers and smart gifts.
Valencia Street Made-in-SF gifts, West Coast style and scents, pirate supplies.
Haight Street Vintage, drag glam, steampunk gear and hats galore, plus anarchist comics, vinyl LPs and skateboards for total SF makeovers.
Hayes Valley Local designers, gourmet treats, home decor.
Union Square Ringed by department stores and megabrands, including Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Saks and Apple.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Keep your city smarts and wits about you, especially at night in the Tenderloin, South of Market (SoMa), the Upper Haight and the Mission. If you’re alone in these areas at night, consider ride-share or a taxi instead of waiting for a bus.
MEDICAL SERVICES
San Francisco City Clinic (%415-487-5500; www.sfcityclinic.org; 356 7th St; h8am-4pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 1-6pm Tue, 1-4pm Thu) Low-cost services.
San Francisco General Hospital (Zuckerberg San Franciso General Hospital and Trauma Center; %emergency 415-206-8111, main hospital 415-206-8000; https://zuckerbergsanfranciscogeneral.org; 1001 Potrero Ave; h24hr; g9, 10, 33, 48) Best ER for serious trauma.
University of California San Francisco Medical Center (%415-476-1000; www.ucsfhealth.org; 505 Parnassus Ave; h24hr; g6, 7, 43, mN) ER at leading university hospital.
TOURIST INFORMATION
SF Visitor Information Center (www.sanfrancisco.travel/visitor-information-center) Muni Passports, activities deals, and event calendars.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
One of America’s busiest, San Francisco International Airport (www.flysfo.com; S McDonnell Rd) is 14 miles south of downtown off Hwy 101 and accessible by BART (30 minutes). Travelers arriving at Oakland International Airport (OAK; %510-563-3300; www.oaklandairport.com; 1 Airport Dr; 
W; ZOakland International Airport), 15 miles east of downtown, have a longer trip to reach San Francisco – but OAK has fewer weather-related flight delays than SFO.
BUS
From the Temporary Transbay Terminal (map; cnr Howard & Main Sts; g5, 38, 41, 71), you can catch the following buses:
AC Transit (%510-891-4777; www.actransit.org; single ride East Bay/trans-Bay $2.35/5.50) Buses to the East Bay.
Greyhound (%800-231-2222; www.greyhound.com) Buses leave daily for Los Angeles ($21 to $33, eight to 12 hours), Truckee ($32 to $40, 5½ hours) near Lake Tahoe and other major destinations.
Megabus (%877-462-6342; https://us.megabus.com) Low-cost bus service to San Francisco from Los Angeles, Sacramento and Anaheim.
SamTrans (%800-660-4287; www.samtrans.com) Southbound buses to Palo Alto and the Pacific coast.
TRAIN
Caltrain (www.caltrain.com; cnr 4th & King Sts) connects San Francisco with Silicon Valley hubs and San Jose.
Amtrak (%800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) serves San Francisco via stations in Oakland and Emeryville (near Oakland), with free shuttle-bus connections to San Francisco’s Ferry Building and Caltrain station, and Oakland’s Jack London Sq.
8Getting Around
San Franciscans mostly walk, bike, ride Muni or ride-share instead of taking a car or cab. Traffic is notoriously bad and parking is next to impossible. Avoid driving until it’s time to leave town. For Bay Area transit options, departures and arrivals, call 511 or check www.511.org. A Muni Street & Transit Map is available online.
Cable cars Frequent, slow and scenic, from 6am to 12:30am daily. Single rides cost $7; for frequent use, get a Muni Passport ($23 per day).
Muni streetcar and bus Reasonably fast, but schedules vary by line; infrequent after 9pm. Fares are $2.75 cash, or $2.50 with a reloadable Clipper card.
BART High-speed transit to East Bay, Mission St, SF airport and Millbrae, where it connects with Caltrain.
Taxi Fares are about $3 per mile; meters start at $3.50.
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