Pacific Northwest
Washington
Seattle
Olympia
Olympic Peninsula
Northwest Washington
San Juan Islands
North Cascades
Northeastern Washington
South Cascades
Central & Southeastern Washington
Oregon
Portland
Willamette Valley
Columbia River Gorge
Oregon Cascades
Oregon Coast
Southern Oregon
Eastern Oregon
Pacific Northwest
Why Go?
As much a state of mind as a geographical region, the northwest corner of the US is a land of subcultures and new trends, where evergreen trees frame snow-dusted volcanoes, and inspired ideas scribbled on the back of napkins become tomorrow’s start-ups. You can’t peel off the history in layers here, but you can gaze wistfully into the future in fast-moving, innovative cities such as Seattle and Portland, which are sprinkled with food carts, streetcars, microbreweries, green belts, coffee connoisseurs and weird urban sculpture.
Ever since the days of the Oregon Trail, the Northwest has had a hypnotic lure for risk-takers and dreamers; the metaphoric carrot still dangles. There’s the air, so clean they ought to bottle it; the trees, older than many of Rome’s Renaissance palaces; and the end-of-the-continent coastline, holding back the force of the world’s largest ocean. Cowboys take note: it doesn’t get much more ‘wild’ or ‘west’ than this.
When to Go
- Jan–Mar Most reliable snow cover for skiing in the Cascades and beyond.
- May Festival season: Portland Rose, International Film Festival and Oregon Shakespeare Festival.
- Jul–Sep The best hiking months, between the spring snowmelt and the first fall flurries.
Best Places to Sleep
Pacific Northwest Highlights
1 San Juan Islands Cycling and kayaking around the quieter corners.
2 Oregon Coast Exploring this gorgeous region, from scenic Astoria to balmy Port Orford.
3 Olympic National Park Admiring trees older than Europe’s Renaissance castles.
4 Pike Place Market Watching the greatest outdoor show in the Pacific Northwest.
5 Portland Walking the green and serene neighborhoods, energized by beer, coffee and food-cart treats.
6 Crater Lake National Park Witnessing the impossibly deep-blue waters and scenic panoramas.
7 Bend Mountain biking, rock climbing or skiing in this outdoor mecca.
8 Walla Walla Tasting sumptuous reds and whites in the surrounding wine regions.
History
Native American societies, including the Chinook and the Salish, had long-established coastal communities by the time Europeans arrived in the Pacific Northwest in the 18th century. Inland, on the arid plateaus between the Cascades and the Rocky Mountains, the Spokane, Nez Percé and other tribes thrived on seasonal migration between river valleys and temperate uplands.
Three hundred years after Columbus landed in the New World, Spanish and British explorers began probing the northern Pacific coast, seeking the fabled Northwest Passage. In 1792 Captain George Vancouver was the first explorer to sail the waters of Puget Sound, claiming British sovereignty over the entire region. At the same time, an American, Captain Robert Gray, found the mouth of the Columbia River. In 1805 the explorers Lewis and Clark crossed the Rockies and made their way down the Columbia to the Pacific Ocean, extending the US claim on the territory.
In 1824 the British Hudson’s Bay Company established Fort Vancouver in Washington as headquarters for the Columbia region. This opened the door to waves of settlers, but had a devastating impact on the indigenous cultures, which were assailed by European diseases and alcohol.
In 1843 settlers at Champoeg, on the Willamette River south of Portland, voted to organize a provisional government independent of the Hudson’s Bay Company, thereby casting their lot with the US, which formally acquired the territory from the British by treaty in 1846. Over the next decade, some 53,000 settlers came to the Northwest via the 2000-mile Oregon Trail.
Arrival of the railroads set the region’s future. Agriculture and lumber became the pillars of the economy until 1914, when WWI and the opening of the Panama Canal brought increased trade to Pacific ports. Shipyards opened along Puget Sound, and the Boeing aircraft company set up shop near Seattle.
Big dam projects in the 1930s and ‘40s provided cheap hydroelectricity and irrigation. WWII offered another boost for aircraft manufacturing and shipbuilding, and agriculture continued to thrive. In the postwar period, Washington’s population, especially around Puget Sound, grew to twice that of Oregon.
In the 1980s and ‘90s, the economic emphasis shifted with the rise of the high-tech industry, embodied by Microsoft in Seattle and Intel in Portland.
Hydroelectricity production and massive irrigation projects along the Columbia have threatened the river’s ecosystem in the past few decades, and logging has also left its scars. But the region has reinvigorated its eco-credentials by attracting some of the country’s most environmentally conscious companies, and its major cities are among the greenest in the US. It stands at the forefront of US efforts to tackle climate issues.
THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST IN…
Four Days
Hit the ground running in Seattle to see the main sights, including Pike Place Market and the Seattle Center (map Google map). After a couple of days, head down to Portland, where you can do as the locals do and cycle to bars, cafes, food carts and shops.
One Week
Add a couple of outdoorsy highlights such as Mt Rainier, Olympic National Park, the Columbia River Gorge or Mt Hood. Or explore the spectacular Oregon Coast (try Cannon Beach) or the historic seaport of Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula.
Two Weeks
Crater Lake is unforgettable, and can be combined with a trip to Ashland and its Shakespeare Festival. Equally rewarding are the ethereal San Juan Islands up near the watery border with Canada, and Bend, the region’s capital of outdoor activities. Like wine? Washington’s Walla Walla is packed with attractive tasting rooms, and Oregon’s Willamette Valley is a Pinot Noir paradise.
Local Culture
The stereotypical image of a Pacific Northwesterner is a casually dressed, latte-sipping urbanite who drives a Prius, votes Democrat and walks around with an unwavering musical diet of Nirvana-derived indie rock blaring from their headphones. But, as with most fleeting regional generalizations, the reality is far more complex.
Noted for their sophisticated cafe culture and copious microbrew pubs, the urban hubs of Seattle and Portland are the Northwest’s most emblematic cities. But head east into the region’s drier and less verdant interior, and the cultural affiliations become increasingly more traditional. Here, strung along the Columbia River Valley or nestled amid the arid steppes of southeastern Washington, small towns host raucous rodeos, tourist centers promote cowboy culture, and a cup of coffee is exactly that – no lattes, no matcha tea.
In contrast to the USA’s hardworking eastern seaboard, life out west is more casual and less frenetic. Ideally, Westerners would rather work to live than live to work. Indeed, with so much winter rain, the citizens of the Pacific Northwest will dredge up any excuse to shun the nine-to-five treadmill and hit the great outdoors a couple of hours (or even days) early. Witness the scene in late May and early June, when the first bright days of summer prompt a mass exodus of hikers and cyclists to make enthusiastically for the national parks and wilderness areas for which the region is justly famous.
8Getting There & Around
AIR
Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, aka ‘Sea-Tac,’ and Portland International Airport are the main airports for the region, serving many North American and several international destinations.
BOAT
Washington State Ferries (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries) links Seattle with Bainbridge and Vashon Islands. Other WSF routes cross from Whidbey Island to Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula, and from Anacortes through the San Juan Islands to Sidney, BC. Victoria Clipper (www.clippervacations.com) operates services from Seattle to Victoria, BC; ferries to Victoria also operate from Port Angeles. Alaska Marine Highway ferries (www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs) go from Bellingham, WA, to Alaska.
BUS
Greyhound (www.greyhound.com) provides service along the I-5 corridor from Bellingham in northern Washington down to Medford in southern Oregon, with connecting services across the US and Canada. East–west routes fan out toward Spokane, Yakima, the Tri-Cities (Kennewick, Pasco and Richland in Washington), Walla Walla and Pullman in Washington, and Hood River and Pendleton in Oregon. Private bus companies service most of the smaller towns and cities across the region, often connecting to Greyhound or Amtrak.
CAR
Driving your own vehicle is by far the most convenient way of touring the Pacific Northwest. Major and minor rental agencies are commonplace throughout the region. I-5 is the major north–south artery. In Washington I-90 heads east from Seattle to Spokane and into Idaho. In Oregon I-84 branches east from Portland along the Columbia River Gorge to link up with Boise in Idaho.
TRAIN
Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) runs train services north (to Vancouver, Canada) and south (to California), linking Seattle, Portland and other major urban centers with the Cascades and Coast Starlight routes. The famous Empire Builder heads east to Chicago from Seattle and Portland (joining up in Spokane).
Washington
Washington state is the heart of the Pacific Northwest. With that title comes everything you’d hope for, from the lush, green Olympic Peninsula to the wild white peaks of the Cascade Mountains and the relaxed, kayaker-friendly San Juan Islands. Head east and you’ll see another side of the state: aridly beautiful, with upscale wineries and cowboy-style breakfasts in equal measure, plus orchards, wheat fields and pioneer history.
The biggest urban jolt is Seattle, but each of the state’s main population centers – Spokane, Bellingham, Olympia – has its own charm. Still, to get the most out of visiting Washington, you’ll want to leave the cities behind and lose yourself in the mountains and the woods, along the coast or on the islands. The best experiences here are mostly unmediated.
WASHINGTON FACTS
Nickname Evergreen State
Population 7.3 million
Area 71,362 sq miles
Capital city Olympia (population 51,609)
Other cities Seattle (population 744,955), Spokane (population 217,108), Bellingham (population 89,045)
Sales tax 6.5%
Birthplace of Singer and actor Bing Crosby (1903–77), guitarist Jimi Hendrix (1942–70), computer geek Bill Gates (b 1955), political commentator Glen Beck (b 1964), musical icon Kurt Cobain (1967–94)
Home of Mt St Helens, Microsoft, Starbucks, Amazon.com, Evergreen State College
Politics Democrat governors since 1985
Famous for Grunge rock, coffee, Grey’s Anatomy, Twilight, volcanoes, apples, wine, precipitation
State vegetable Walla Walla sweet onion
Driving distances Seattle to Portland174 miles, Spokane to Port Angeles 365 miles
Seattle
Combine the brains of Portland, OR, with the beauty of Vancouver, Canada, and you’ll get something approximating Seattle. It’s hard to believe that the Pacific Northwest’s largest metropolis was considered a ‘secondary’ US city until the 1980s, when a combination of bold innovation and unabashed individualism turned it into one of the dot-com era’s biggest trendsetters, spearheaded by an unlikely alliance of coffee-sipping computer geeks and navel-gazing musicians.
Surprisingly elegant in places and coolly edgy in others, Seattle is notable for its strong neighborhoods, top-rated university, monstrous traffic jams and proactive city mayors who harbor green credentials. Although it has fermented its own pop culture in recent times, it has yet to create an urban mythology befitting Paris or New York, but it does have ‘the Mountain.’ Better known as Rainier, Seattle’s unifying symbol is a 14,411ft mass of rock and ice, which acts as a perennial reminder to the city’s huddled masses that raw wilderness, and potential volcanic catastrophe, are never far away.
Seattle
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
1Sights
1Downtown
oPike Place MarketMARKET
(map Google map; 
%206-682-7453; www.pikeplacemarket.org; 85 Pike St, Pike Place; 
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; 
dWestlake) 
S
A cavalcade of noise, smells, personalities, banter and urban theater sprinkled liberally around a spatially challenged waterside strip, Pike Place Market is Seattle in a bottle. In operation since 1907 and still as soulful today as it was on day one, this wonderfully local experience highlights the city for what it really is: all-embracing, eclectic and proudly unique. A 2017 expansion of the market infrastructure added vendor space, weather-protected common areas, extra parking, and housing for low-income seniors.
oSeattle Art MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; SAM; %206-654-3210; www.seattleartmuseum.org; 1300 1st Ave, Downtown; adult/student $25/15; h10am-5pm Wed & Fri-Mon, to 9pm Thu; dUniversity St)
While not comparable with the big guns in New York and Chicago, Seattle Art Museum is no slouch. Always re-curating its art collection with new acquisitions and imported temporary exhibitions, it’s known for its extensive Native American artifacts and work from the local Northwest school, in particular by Mark Tobey (1890–1976). Modern American art is also well represented, and the museum gets some exciting traveling exhibitions (including Yayoi Kusama’s infinity mirrors).
oOlympic Sculpture ParkPARK
(map Google map; %206-654-3100; 2901 Western Ave, Belltown; hsunrise-sunset; 
g33) 
F
This ingenuous feat of urban planning is an official offshoot of the Seattle Art Museum and bears the same strong eye toward design and curation. There are more than 20 sculptures to stop at and admire in this green space that sprawls out over reclaimed urban decay. You can also enjoy them in passing while traversing the park’s winding trails. Views of the Puget Sound and Olympic Peninsula in the background will delight anyone looking for some great pictures for social media.
1Pioneer Square & the International District
Seattle’s birthplace retains the grit of its ‘Skid Row’ roots with redbrick architecture and a rambunctious street life that’s tempered by art galleries and locavore restaurants. The International District’s legacy as home to many of the city’s southeast Asian immigrant communities makes for unique shopping and exquisite dining, while SoDo (south of downtown) is an austere warehouse district that’s steadily attracting new distilleries and dispensaries.
oKlondike Gold Rush National Historical ParkMUSEUM
(map Google map; %206-553-3000; www.nps.gov/klse; 319 2nd Ave S, Pioneer Sq; h9am-5pm daily Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Sep-Feb, 10am-5pm daily Mar-May; 
jFirst Hill Streetcar) F
Eloquently run by the US National Park Service, this wonderful museum has exhibits, photos and news clippings from the 1897 Klondike gold rush, when a Seattle-on-steroids acted as a fueling depot for prospectors bound for the Yukon in Canada. Entry would cost $20 anywhere else; in Seattle it’s free!
Wing Luke Museum of the Asian Pacific American ExperienceMUSEUM
(map Google map; %206-623-5124; www.wingluke.org; 719 S King St, International District; adult/child $17/12; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; jFirst Hill Streetcar)
The beautiful Wing Luke museum examines Asia Pacific American culture, focusing on prickly issues such as Chinese settlement in the 1880s and Japanese internment camps during WWII. Recent temporary exhibits include ‘A Day in the Life of Bruce Lee.’ There are also art exhibits and a preserved immigrant apartment. Guided tours are available; the first Thursday of the month is free (with extended hours until 8pm).
1Seattle Center
oSpace NeedleLANDMARK
(map Google map; %206-905-2100; www.spaceneedle.com; 400 Broad St, Seattle Center; adult/child $37.50/32.50, incl Chihuly Garden & Glass $49/39; h9:30am-11pm Mon-Thu, 9:30am-11:30pm Fri & Sat, 9am-11pm Sun; 
DSeattle Center)
This streamlined, modern-before-its-time tower built for the 1962 World’s Fair has been the city’s defining symbol for more than 50 years. The needle anchors the complex now called the Seattle Center (map; %206-684-8582; www.seattlecenter.com; 400 Broad St, Seattle Center; DSeattle Center) and draws more than one million annual visitors to its flying saucer–like observation deck and pricey rotating restaurant.
oMuseum of Pop CultureMUSEUM
(map Google map; %206-770-2700; www.mopop.org; 325 5th Ave N, Seattle Center; adult/child $28/19; h10am-5pm Jan-late May & Sep-Dec, 10am-7pm late May-Aug; DSeattle Center)
The Museum of Pop Culture (formerly EMP, the ‘Experience Music Project’) is an inspired marriage between super-modern architecture and legendary rock-and-roll history that sprang from the imagination (and pocket) of Microsoft co-creator Paul Allen (1953–2018). Inside its avant-garde frame, designed by Canadian architect Frank Gehry, you can tune into the famous sounds of Seattle (with an obvious bias toward Jimi Hendrix and grunge) or attempt to imitate the masters in the Interactive Sound Lab.
oChihuly Garden & GlassMUSEUM
(map Google map; %206-753-4940; www.chihulygardenandglass.com; 305 Harrison St, Seattle Center; adult/child $26/17, incl Space Needle $49/39; h10am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; DSeattle Center)
Opened in 2012 and reinforcing Seattle’s position as a leading city of the arts, this exquisite exposition of the life and work of dynamic local sculptor Dale Chihuly is possibly the finest collection of curated glass art you’ll ever see. It shows off Chihuly’s creative designs in a suite of interconnected dark and light rooms before depositing you in an airy glass atrium and – finally – a landscaped garden in the shadow of the Space Needle. Glassblowing demonstrations are a highlight.
1Capitol Hill
Capitol Hill is Seattle’s most unashamedly hip neighborhood, where the exceptionally rich mix with the exceptionally eccentric. While gentrification has let some of the air out of its tires, this is still Seattle’s best crash pad for dive-bar rock and roll, LGBTIQ+ mirth and on-trend dining. More straitlaced First Hill is home to an art museum and multiple hospitals.
1Green Lake & Fremont
Fremont pitches young hipsters among old hippies in an unlikely urban alliance, and vies with Capitol Hill as Seattle’s most irreverent neighborhood, with junk shops, urban sculpture and a healthy sense of its own ludicrousness. To the north, family-friendly Green Lake is a more affluent suburb centered on a park favored by fitness devotees.
Fremont TrollSCULPTURE
(N 36th St & Troll Ave, Fremont; g62)
The Fremont Troll is an outlandish sculpture that lurks beneath the north end of the Aurora Bridge at N 36th St. The troll’s creators – artists Steve Badanes, Will Martin, Donna Walter and Ross Whitehead – won a competition sponsored by the Fremont Arts Council in 1990. The 18ft-high cement figure snacking on a Volkswagen Beetle is a favorite place for late-night beer drinking.
Waiting for the InterurbanMONUMENT
(N 34th St & Fremont Ave N, Fremont; g62)
Seattle’s most popular piece of public art, Waiting for the Interurban, is cast in recycled aluminum and depicts six people waiting for a train that never comes. Occasionally locals will lovingly decorate the people in outfits corresponding to a special event, the weather, someone’s birthday, a Mariners win – whatever. Check out the human face on the dog; it’s Armen Stepanian, once Fremont’s honorary mayor, who made the mistake of objecting to the sculpture.
1The U District
Burke MuseumMUSEUM
(%206-543-5590; www.burkemuseum.org; 4300 15th Ave NE; adult/child $22/14; h10am-5pm, to 8pm 1st Thu of month; g70)
A hybrid museum covering natural history and indigenous cultures of the Pacific Rim. Inside you’ll find, arguably, Washington’s best natural-history collection, focusing on the geology and evolution of the state. It guards an impressive stash of fossils, including a 20,000-year-old saber-toothed cat. Also not to be missed is an awe-inspiring collection of Kwakwaka’wakw masks from British Columbia.
1Ballard
A former seafaring community with Nordic heritage, Ballard still feels like a small town engulfed by a bigger city. However, that’s not to say it’s lacking in attractions. The neighborhood has come into its own as one of the city’s best locals for exciting restaurants, lively bars and killer shopping.
oHiram M Chittenden LocksCANAL
(3015 NW 54th St, Ballard; h7am-9pm; g44) F
Seattle shimmers like an impressionist painting on sunny days at the Hiram M Chittenden Locks. Here, the fresh waters of Lake Washington and Lake Union drop 22ft into saltwater Puget Sound. You can stand inches away and watch the boats rise or sink (depending on direction). Construction of the canal and locks began in 1911; today 100,000 boats pass through them annually. You can view fish-ladder activity through underwater glass panels, stroll through botanical gardens and visit a small museum.
2Activities
Cycling
Despite frequent rain and hilly terrain, cycling is still a major form of both transportation and recreation in the Seattle area. In 2014 the city finally inaugurated a public bike-sharing scheme, which closed in March 2017 due to lack of ridership. In 2018 several private companies, including Lyft and Lime, began the practice again.
In the city, commuter bike lanes are painted green on many streets, city trails are well maintained, and the friendly and enthusiastic cycling community is happy to share the road. The wildly popular 20-mile Burke-Gilman Trail winds from Ballard to Log Boom Park in Kenmore on Seattle’s Eastside. There, it connects with the 11-mile long Sammamish River Trail, which winds past the Chateau Ste Michelle winery in Woodinville before terminating at Redmond’s Marymoor Park.
Other good places to cycle are around Green Lake (%206-684-4075; 7201 E Green Lake Dr N, Green Lake; h24hr; g62), which is congested but pretty, at sublime Alki Beach (%206-684-4075; 1702 Alki Ave SW, West Seattle; h4am-11:30pm; g37) or, closer to downtown, through scenic Myrtle Edwards Park (%206-684-4075; 3130 Alaskan Way, Belltown; h24hr; g33). The latter trail continues through Interbay to Ballard, where it links with the Burke-Gilman.
Anyone planning on cycling in Seattle should pick up a copy of the Seattle Bicycling Guide Map, published by the City of Seattle’s Transportation Bicycle & Pedestrian Program and available online (www.cityofseattle.net/transportation/bikemaps.htm) and at bike shops.
Water Sports
Seattle is striated with kayak-friendly marine trails. The Lakes to Locks Water Trail links Lake Sammamish with Lake Washington, Lake Union and – via the Hiram M Chittenden Locks – Puget Sound. For launching sites and maps, check the website of the Washington Water Trails Association (www.wwta.org).
Northwest Outdoor CenterKAYAKING
(%206-281-9694; www.nwoc.com; 2100 Westlake Ave N, Lake Union; rental per hr kayak/SUP $18/20; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, closed Mon & Tue Oct-Mar; g62)
Located on the west side of Lake Union, this place rents kayaks and stand up paddleboards (SUPs) and offers tours and instruction in sea and white-water kayaking.
TTours
oSeattle Free Walking ToursWALKING
(map Google map; www.seattlefreewalkingtours.org; 2001 Western Ave, Pike Place) F
A nonprofit tour company that does an intimate two-hour walk taking in Pike Place, the waterfront and Pioneer Square, among other tours. Each tour is ‘pay what you can,’ and the company notes that comparable walking tours run around $20. Reserve online.
zFestivals & Events
SeafairFAIR
(www.seafair.com; hJun-Aug)
This waterfront festival is hugely popular and runs in one capacity or another from June through August. Come for music, pirate ships, food stalls and an excuse to be out in the nice weather.
BumbershootPERFORMING ARTS
(www.bumbershoot.com; Seattle Center; 3-day pass from $434; hSep)
A fair few people – Seattleites or otherwise – would say that this is Seattle’s finest festival, with major arts and cultural events at the Seattle Center on the Labor Day weekend in September. Bank on live music, comedy, theater, visual arts and dance, but also bank on crowds and hotels stuffed to capacity. Book well in advance!
SEATTLE CITYPASS
If you’re going to be in Seattle for a while and plan on seeing its premier attractions, consider buying a Seattle CityPASS (www.citypass.com/seattle; per adult/child 5-12yr $99/79). Good for nine days, the pass gets you entry into five sights: the Space Needle, Seattle Aquarium, Argosy Cruises Seattle Harbor Tour, Museum of Pop Culture or Woodland Park Zoo and Pacific Science Center or Chihuly Garden & Glass. You wind up saving about 49% on admission costs and you never have to stand in line. You can buy one at any of the venues or online.
4Sleeping
Reserve ahead in summer, when hotels book up and prices tend to skyrocket.
City Hostel SeattleHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %206-706-3255; www.hostelseattle.com; 2327 2nd Ave, Belltown; dm/d from $36/125; 
n
i
W; dWestlake)
This well-located, boutique ‘art hostel’ has colorful murals painted by local artists splashed on the walls of every room. There’s also a common room, hot tub, in-house movie theater and all-you-can-eat breakfast. Dorms have four or six beds and some are women-only. There are also several private rooms, some with shared bathroom. Guests consistently praise the friendly staff.
Moore HotelHOTEL$
(map Google map; %206-448-4851; www.moorehotel.com; 1926 2nd Ave, Belltown; d with/without bath from $165/117; W; g13)
Old-world and allegedly haunted, the hip and whimsical Moore is undoubtedly central Seattle’s most reliable bargain, offering fixed annual prices for its large stash of simple but cool rooms. Bonuses – aside from the dynamite location – are the cute ground-floor cafe, and zebra- and leopard-skin-patterned carpets.
Hotel Hotel HostelHOTEL, HOSTEL$
(%206-257-4543; www.hotelhotel.co; 3515 Fremont Ave N, Fremont; dm $34-36, d with/without bath $140/120; W; g5)
Fremont’s only real hotel is a good one, encased in a venerable old building replete with exposed brick and chunky radiators. In true Fremont fashion, Hotel Hotel is technically more of a hostel (with dorms), but it also passes itself off as an economical hotel on account of its private rooms with an assortment of shared and en-suite bathrooms.
The industrial-chic decor means it’s comfortable without being fancy. A buffet breakfast is included in the price, and there is a common room and a kitchen.
oUniversity InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%206-632-5055; www.universityinnseattle.com; 4140 Roosevelt Way NE; r from $226; 
p
aiW
s; g74)
This spotless, modern, well-located place is good – especially when you factor in the waffles served with the complimentary breakfast. The hotel is four blocks from campus and just three from the bustle of ‘the Ave.’ The 102 rooms come in three levels of plushness. All of them offer such basics as a coffee maker, hair dryer and wi-fi; some have balconies, sofas and Bluetooth docking stations.
oBacon Mansion B&BB&B$$
(%206-329-1864; www.baconmansion.com; 959 Broadway E, Capitol Hill; r with/without bath $244/189, ste from $269; piW; g49)
A 1909 Tudor-style mansion whose imposing exterior belies the quirky charm of its friendly hosts, this four-level B&B on a quiet residential street just past the Capitol Hill action is one of the best in the area. Among its charming amenities are a pleasant garden and a grand piano in the main room that guests are invited to play.
Graduate SeattleHOTEL$$
(%206-634-2000; www.graduatehotels.com; 4507 Brooklyn Ave NE; r from $237; paW
#)
This new kid on the block brings hip sophistication to the U District’s hotel scene. Eclectic furniture and walls full of framed photographs almost make this place feel more like a passed-down vacation home than a new hotel, but then amenities such as the 24-hour gym and incredible rooftop bar bring it all back into focus.
oPalihotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %206-596-0600; www.palisociety.com; 107 Pine St, Downtown; r from $298; aW)
The rare new hotel that isn’t a utilitarian business tower, Palihotel is an understated boutique (part of a small, but expanding, chain) whose early-20th-century ‘forest green walls and overstuffed leather chairs’ aesthetic is as chic as it is cozy. Although the theme is antique, the building’s remodel ensures 21st-century luxuries like air-conditioning and rain showers.
oHotel MonacoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %206-621-1770; www.monaco-seattle.com; 1101 4th Ave, Downtown; d/ste $293/406; piW#; dUniversity St) S
Whimsical and with dashes of European elegance, the downtown Monaco is a classic Kimpton hotel whose rooms live up to the hints given off in the illustrious lobby. Bed down amid the bold, graphic decor and reap the perks (complimentary bikes, fitness center, free wine tasting, in-room yoga mats).
Maxwell HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %206-286-0629; 300 Roy St, Queen Anne; r/ste from $311/371; paiWs; gRapidRide D Line)
Located in Lower Queen Anne, the Maxwell has a huge designer-chic lobby with a floor mosaic and colorful furnishings that welcomes you with aplomb. Upstairs the slickness continues in 139 gorgeously modern rooms with hardwood floors and Scandinavian bedding. There’s a small pool, a gym, free bike rentals and complimentary cupcakes.
Hotel MaxBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %206-441-4200; www.hotelmaxseattle.com; 620 Stewart St, Belltown; r from $263; paiW#; jSouth Lake Union Streetcar)
It’s tough to get any hipper than a hotel that has a whole floor dedicated to Seattle’s indie Sub Pop record label (that unleashed Nirvana on an unsuspecting world). The 5th floor pays homage to the music with giant grunge-era photos and record players with vinyls in every room. The art theme continues throughout the hotel (there’s a Warhol in the lobby).
SEATTLE FOR CHILDREN
Make a beeline for the Seattle Center, preferably on the monorail, where food carts, street entertainers, fountains and green spaces will make the day fly by. One essential stop is the Pacific Science Center (map Google map; %206-443-2001; www.pacificsciencecenter.org; 200 2nd Ave N, Seattle Center; adult/child $26/18; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; 
c; 
bSeattle Center), which entertains and educates with virtual-reality exhibits, laser shows, holograms, an IMAX theater and a planetarium. Parents won’t be bored either.
Downtown on Pier 59, Seattle Aquarium (map Google map; %206-386-4300; www.seattleaquarium.org; 1483 Alaskan Way, Waterfront; adult/child $35/25; h9:30am-5pm; c; dUniversity St) is a fun way to learn about the natural world of the Pacific Northwest. Even better is Woodland Park Zoo (%206-548-2500; www.zoo.org; 5500 Phinney Ave N, Green Lake; adult/child May-Sep $22.95/13.95, Oct-Apr $15.50/10.50; h9:30am-6pm May-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Apr; c; g5) in the Green Lake neighborhood, one of Seattle’s greatest tourist attractions and consistently rated as one of the top 10 zoos in the country.
5Eating
The best budget meals are to be found in Pike Place Market. Take your pick from fresh produce, baked goods, deli items and takeout ethnic foods.
oTaco ChukisTACOS$
(www.facebook.com/TacosChukis; 2215 E Union St, CD; tacos $2.20-2.75; h11am-9pm; g2)
At the moment in Seattle there are few bites of food better than the signature taco at Taco Chukis. It’s a simple design (juicy pork, guacamole, melted cheese and brilliantly tangy grilled pineapple) that’s executed so well you’re likely to get into line immediately after finishing to order a couple more.
oSalumi Artisan Cured MeatsSANDWICHES$
(map Google map; %206-621-8772; www.salumicuredmeats.com; 404 Occidental Ave S, Pioneer Sq; sandwiches $10.50-12.50; h11am-3pm Mon-Sat; dInternational District/Chinatown)
This well-loved deli used to be known for the long lines at its tiny storefront, and although it has moved to a bigger spot, you can still expect a wait for the legendary Italian-quality salami and cured-meat sandwiches (grilled lamb, pork shoulder, meatballs). You can expect a regular sandwich menu, as well as daily sandwich, soup and pasta specials.
Un BienCUBAN$
(%206-588-2040; www.unbienseattle.com; 7302 ½ 15th Ave NW, Ballard; mains $11-16; h11am-9pm Wed-Sat, to 8pm Sun; gRapidRide D Line)
Lines can get long at this Cuban take-out spot far from Ballard’s commercial center, but the wait is worth it to finally sink your teeth into a perfectly juicy and tangy pork sandwich. The restaurant is owned by brothers working from family recipes and you can taste the affection in every bite.
oBitterrootBARBECUE$$
(%206-588-1577; www.bitterrootbbq.com; 5239 Ballard Ave NW, Ballard; mains $11-19; h11am-2am; g40)
People come to Bitterroot for two things: smoked meat and whiskey. Thankfully this restaurant with a pleasing modern roadhouse vibe does both exceptionally well. You can get your meat in sandwich form, or by itself with sides like cast-iron cornbread and roasted cauliflower. Likewise, the extensive whiskey menu comes neat or as an expertly mixed craft cocktail.
oMa’OnoHAWAIIAN$$
(%206-935-1075; www.maonoseattle.com; 4437 California Ave SW, West Seattle; mains $12-17; h5-10pm Wed & Thu, 5-11pm Fri, 9am-3pm & 5-11pm Sat, 5-10pm Sun; g55)
The fried chicken sandwich – served on a King’s Hawaiian roll with cabbage and a perfectly spicy sauce – at this West Seattle spot is one of the best things between two slices of bread currently available in Seattle. Treat yourself to one during the always-packed brunch with a guava mimosa and side of roasted sweet potato with caramelized lime.
oSeven Stars PepperSICHUAN$$
(map Google map; %206-568-6446; www.sevenstarspepper.com; 1207 S Jackson St, International District; mains $9-20; h11am-3pm & 5-9:30pm Mon-Wed, 11am-9:30pm Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun; jFirst Hill Streetcar)
Don’t be put off by Seven Stars Pepper’s uninspiring location on the 2nd floor of a run-down strip mall: this Szechuan restaurant is one of the best in the city. Everything on the menu is exceptional, but the hand-cut dan dan noodles are a must-order. They are thick and flavorful with just the right amount of chewiness.
Le PichetFRENCH$$
(map Google map; %206-256-1499; www.lepichetseattle.com; 1933 1st Ave, Pike Place; dinner mains $22-25; h8am-midnight; dWestlake)
Say bonjour to Le Pichet, just up from Pike Place Market, a cute and very French bistro with pâtés, cheeses, wine, chocolat and a refined Parisian feel. Dinner features delicacies such as Niçoise chickpea crepes and Basque seafood stew. The specialty is a roast chicken (for two $45) – just know that there’s an hour’s wait when you order one.
oSitka & SpruceMODERN AMERICAN$$$
(map Google map; %206-324-0662; www.sitkaandspruce.com; 1531 Melrose Ave, Capitol Hill; plates $16-35; h11:30am-2pm & 5-10pm Tue-Thu, to 9pm Mon, to 11pm Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-11pm Sat, to 9pm Sun; 
v; g10)
The king of all locavore restaurants, Sitka & Spruce was the pilot project of celebrated Seattle chef Matt Dillon. It has since become something of an institution and a trendsetter, with its country-kitchen decor and a constantly changing menu concocted with ingredients from Dillon’s own Vashon Island farm. Sample items include housemade charcuterie and roasted-asparagus-and-liver parfait. Great choice for vegetarians too.
oHeartwood ProvisionsFUSION$$$
(map Google map; %206-582-3505; www.heartwoodsea.com; 1103 1st Ave, Downtown; mains $24-37; h4:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, also 9:30am-2pm Sat & Sun; dUniversity St)
Cocktails are having a moment as the alcoholic libation du jour in Seattle and nowhere is that more clear than at Heartwood, a handsome restaurant and bar with a menu of mixed drinks that is unmatched. Come for dinner, where each dish is infused with Southeast Asian flavors and has its own cocktail pairing (optional for an additional $7).
oTavolàtaITALIAN$$$
(map Google map; %206-838-8008; 2323 2nd Ave, Belltown; mains $18-32; h5-11pm; g13)
Owned by top Seattle chef Ethan Stowell, Tavolàta is a dinner-only, Italian-inspired eatery emphasizing homemade pasta dishes and hearty mains such as a rack of wild boar with fig mostarda (a sweet and spicy mustard and fruit sauce). Many consider it among the best Italian spots in the city.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oUnicornBAR
(map Google map; %206-325-6492; www.unicornseattle.com; 1118 E Pike St, Capitol Hill; h2pm-1:45am Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; g11)
Even if Unicorn’s circus theme doesn’t exactly tickle your fancy, its commitment to the spectacle makes it worth a visit. Cocktails like the Cereal Killer (made with Fruit Loop–flavored vodka) hark back to the joys of giant lollipops and cotton candy, while the colorful explosion of decoration and pinball machine collection are likely to make even hardened cynics smile.
oAncient GroundsCAFE
(map Google map; %206-7749-0747; 1220 1st Ave, Downtown; h7:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat; dUniversity St)
If it’s not enough that this cozy coffee nook serves some of the best espresso shots in the city, Ancient Grounds also doubles as a showroom for a well-curated selection of antiques. While waiting for your latte you can pick through a rack of vintage kimonos or peruse a display of wooden masks from indigenous communities of the Pacific Northwest.
oSaké NomiSAKE
(map Google map; %206-467-7253; www.sakenomi.us; 76 S Washington St, Pioneer Sq; flight of 3 $22; h2-10pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, from 5pm Thu, 2-6pm Sun; jFirst Hill Streetcar)
Regardless if you’re a sake (Japanese rice wine) connoisseur or casual enjoyer, you’re likely to expand your palate and your cultural horizons at this cozy retailer and tasting room in Pioneer Sq. The Japanese and American wife-husband duo who run the place have a clear love for what they do, which shows in their wonderfully educational tasting menu.
oFremont Brewing CompanyBREWERY
(%206-420-2407; www.fremontbrewing.com; 1050 N 34th St, Fremont; h11am-9pm; c#; g62) S
This microbrewery, in keeping with current trends, sells its wares via an attached tasting room rather than a full-blown pub. Not only is the beer divine (try the seasonal bourbon barrel-aged Abominable), but the industrial-chic tasting room and ‘urban beer garden’ are highly inclusive spaces, where pretty much everyone in the ‘hood comes to hang out at communal tables.
oZeitgeist CoffeeCAFE
(map Google map; %206-583-0497; www.zeitgeistcoffee.com; 171 S Jackson St, Pioneer Sq; h6am-7pm Mon-Fri, from 7am Sat, 8am-6pm Sun; W; jFirst Hill Streetcar)
Possibly Seattle’s best (if also busiest) indie coffee bar, Zeitgeist brews smooth doppio macchiatos to go with its sweet almond croissants and other luscious baked goods. The atmosphere is trendy industrial, with brick walls and large windows for people-watching. Soups, salads and sandwiches are also on offer.
oBlue MoonBAR
(%206-675-9116; www.bluemoonseattle.wordpress.com; 712 NE 45th St; h4pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat & Sun; g74)
A legendary counterculture dive that first opened in 1934 to celebrate the repeal of Prohibition, Blue Moon makes much of its former literary patrons – including Dylan Thomas and Allen Ginsberg. The place is agreeably gritty and unpredictable, with graffiti carved into the seats and punk poets likely to stand up and start pontificating at any moment. Frequent live music.
Zig Zag CaféCOCKTAIL BAR
(map Google map; %206-625-1146; www.zigzagseattle.com; 1501 Western Ave, Pike Place; h5pm-2am; dUniversity St)
If you’re writing a research project on Seattle’s culinary history, you’ll need to reserve a chapter for the Zig Zag Café. This is the bar that repopularized the gin-based Jazz Age cocktail ‘The Last Word’ in the early 2000s. The drink went viral and the Zig Zag’s nattily attired mixers were rightly hailed as the city’s finest alchemists.
Cloudburst BrewingMICROBREWERY
(map Google map; %206-602-6061; www.cloudburstbrew.com; 2116 Western Ave, Belltown; h2-10pm Wed-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun; g13)
The brainchild of former experimental brewer at Elysian Brewing, Steve Luke, Cloudburst Brewing became an instant Seattle favorite. Replicating the success of Luke’s past brewing creations, Cloudburst Brewing features hoppy beers with sassy names, and the bare-bones tasting room is always packed to the gills with beer fans who want to support craft beer in Seattle.
Panama Hotel Tea & Coffee HouseCAFE
(map Google map; %206-515-4000; www.panamahotel.net; 607 S Main St, International District; tea $3-6; h8am-9pm; W; jFirst Hill Streetcar)
The intensely atmospheric teahouse inside the Panama Hotel has such a thoroughly back-in-time feel that you’ll be reluctant to pull out your laptop (although there is wi-fi). It’s in a National Treasure–designated 1910 building containing the only remaining Japanese bathhouse in the US, and doubles as a memorial to the neighborhood’s Japanese residents forced into internment camps during WWII.
No AnchorBAR
(map Google map; %206-448-2610; www.noanchorbar.com; 2505 2nd Ave, Belltown; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-midnight Fri, 11am-midnight Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; g13)
Most things on the menu at No Anchor feel like a big risk, and they often pay off. The cocktails feature ingredients such as maple syrup and toasted coconut, while the menu of bar bites has eccentric offerings such as pickled mussels. Beer novices will feel welcomed by the large draft menu featuring a ‘what to pick’ guide.
BALLARD’S BARS & BEER CULTURE
Ballard’s bars, breweries and pubs are almost a neighborhood in their own right. If you want the local gossip and unique libations of every stripe this is where you should gravitate. Look out for historic, century-old bars, modern cocktail lounges, inventive brewpubs – massive to nano – and gastropubs with carefully configured retro decor.
3Entertainment
Consult The Stranger, Seattle Weekly or the daily papers for listings. Tickets for big events are available at TicketMaster (www.ticketmaster.com).
oCrocodileLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; %206-441-4618; www.thecrocodile.com; 2200 2nd Ave, Belltown; g13)
Nearly old enough to be called a Seattle institution, the Crocodile is a clamorous 560-capacity venue that first opened in 1991, just in time to grab the coattails of the grunge explosion. Everyone who’s anyone in Seattle’s alt-music scene has since played here, including a famous occasion in 1992 when Nirvana appeared unannounced, supporting Mudhoney.
oA Contemporary TheatreTHEATER
(map Google map; ACT; %206-292-7676; www.acttheatre.org; 700 Union St, Downtown; dUniversity St)
One of the three big theater companies in the city, the ACT fills its $30 million home at Kreielsheimer Pl with performances by Seattle’s best thespians and occasional big-name actors. Terraced seating surrounds a central stage and the interior has gorgeous architectural embellishments.
Big PictureCINEMA
(map Google map; %206-256-0566; www.thebigpicture.net; 2505 1st Ave, Belltown; tickets $14.50)
It’s easy to miss Big Picture when exploring Seattle’s Belltown neighborhood. For those in the know, it’s an ‘underground’ cinema experience with affordable tickets of first-run screenings in an intimate setting. Order a cocktail from the bar (where you can linger before your showtime), and then another to be delivered mid-screening.
NeumosLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; %206-709-9442; www.neumos.com; 925 E Pike St, Capitol Hill; jFirst Hill Streetcar)
This punk, hip-hop and alternative-music joint is, along with the Crocodile in Belltown, one of Seattle’s most revered small music venues. Its storied list of former performers is too long to include, but if they’re cool and passing through Seattle, they’ve probably played here. The audience space can get hot and sweaty, and even smelly, but that’s rock and roll.
Tractor TavernLIVE MUSIC
(%206-789-3599; www.tractortavern.com; 5213 Ballard Ave NW, Ballard; tickets $8-20; h8pm-2am; g40)
One of Seattle’s premier venues for folk and acoustic music, the Tractor books local songwriters and regional bands, plus quality touring acts. Music tends to run toward country, rockabilly, folk, bluegrass and old-time. It’s an intimate place with a small stage and great sound; occasional square dancing is frosting on the cake.
Intiman TheatreTHEATER
(map Google map; %206-441-7178; www.intiman.org; 201 Mercer St, Seattle Center; tickets from $25; c; bSeattle Center)
A beloved theater company based at the Cornish Playhouse in the Seattle Center. Artistic director Jennifer Zeyl curates magnificent stagings of Shakespeare and Ibsen as well as work by emerging artists.
GRUNGE: PUNK’S WEST COAST NIRVANA
Synthesizing Generation X angst with a questionable approach to personal hygiene, the music popularly categorized as ‘grunge’ first stage dived onto Seattle’s scene in the early 1990s. The anger had been fermenting for years – not purely in Seattle but also in its sprawling satellite towns and suburbs. Some said it was inspired by the weather, others cited the Northwest’s geographic isolation. It didn’t matter which. Armed with dissonant chords and dark, sometimes ironic lyrics, a disparate collection of bands stepped sneeringly up to the microphone to preach a new message from a city that all of the touring big-name rock acts serially chose to ignore. There were Screaming Trees from collegiate Ellensburg, the Melvins from rainy Montesano and Nirvana from the timber town of Aberdeen, while Hole frontwoman Courtney Love had ties to Olympia and the converging members of Pearl Jam came from across the nation.
Historically, grunge’s roots lay in West Coast punk, a musical subgenre that first found a voice in Portland, OR, in the late 1970s, led by the Wipers, whose leather-clad followers congregated in legendary dive bars such as Satyricon. Another musical blossoming occurred in Olympia, WA, in the early 1980s, where DIY musicians Beat Happening invented ‘lo-fi’ and coyly mocked the corporate establishment. Mixing in elements of heavy metal and scooping up the fallout of an itchy youth culture, Seattle quickly became alternative music’s pulpit, spawning small, clamorous venues where boisterous young bands more interested in playing rock music than ‘performing’ could lose themselves in a melee of excitement and noise. It was a raucous, energetic scene characterized by stage diving, crowd-surfing and barely tuned guitars, but driven by raw talent and some surprisingly catchy tunes, the music filled a vacuum.
A crucial element in grunge’s elevation to superstardom was Sub Pop Records, an independent Seattle label whose guerrilla marketing tactics created a flurry of hype to promote its ragged stable of cacophonous bands. In August 1988, Sub Pop released the seminal single ‘Touch Me I’m Sick’ by Mudhoney, a watershed moment. The noise got noticed, most importantly by the British music press, whose punk-savvy journalists quickly reported the birth of a ‘Seattle sound,’ later christened grunge by the brand-hungry media. Suitably inspired, the Seattle scene began to prosper, spawning literally hundreds of new bands, all cemented in the same DIY, anti-fashion, audience-embracing tradition. Of note were sludgy Soundgarden, who later went on to win two Grammys; metal-esque Alice in Chains; and the soon-to-be-mega Nirvana and Pearl Jam. By the dawn of the 1990s, every rebellious slacker with the gas money was coming to Seattle to hit the clubs. It was more than exciting.
What should have been grunge’s high point came in October 1992, when Nirvana’s second album, the hugely accomplished Nevermind, knocked Michael Jackson off the number-one spot, but the kudos ultimately killed it. After several years of railing against the mainstream, Nirvana and grunge had been incorporated into it. The media blitzed in, grunge fashion spreads appeared in Vanity Fair and half-baked singers from Seattle only had to cough to land a record contract. Many recoiled, most notably Nirvana vocalist and songwriter Kurt Cobain, whose drug abuse ended in suicide in his new Madison Park home in 1994. Other bands soldiered on, but the spark – which had burnt so brightly while it lasted – was gone. By the mid-1990s, grunge was officially dead.
7Shopping
oElliott Bay Book CompanyBOOKS
(map Google map; %206-624-6600; www.elliottbaybook.com; 1521 10th Ave, Capitol Hill; h10am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun; jFirst Hill Streetcar)
Seattle’s most beloved bookstore offers more than 150,000 titles in a large, airy, wood-beamed space with cozy nooks that can inspire hours of serendipitous browsing. In addition to the size, the staff recommendations and displays of books by local authors make this place extra special. Bibliophiles will be further satisfied with regular book readings and signings.
oHerban LegendsDISPENSARY
(map Google map; %206-849-5596; www.herbanlegends.com; 55 Bell St, Belltown; h8am-11:45pm; g13)
Herban Legends is both a brilliantly silly pun and one of Seattle’s best dispensaries. It manages to feel very professionally run while maintaining a breezy vibe missing from other weed shops in town. The staff are always ready with a great recommendation and there is even a merch shop at the front should you want a coffee mug.
Lucca Great FindsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(%206-782-7337; www.luccagreatfinds.com; 5332 Ballard Ave NW, Ballard; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)
One of the best things about this Ballard boutique is that it offers two shopping experiences: in the front is a chic PNW-themed homewares store that will have you redesigning your apartment in your head while you browse, and in the back is a stationery shop with reams of enviably stylish wrapping paper and rows of charming greeting cards.
8Information
EMERGENCY & MEDICAL SERVICES
Harborview Medical Center (%206-744-3000; www.uwmedicine.org/harborview; 325 9th Ave, First Hill; jBroadway & Terrace) Full medical care, with emergency room.
Seattle Police (%206-625-5011; www.seattle.gov/police)
MEDIA
KEXP 90.3 FM (stream at http://kexp.org) Legendary independent music and community station.
Seattle Magazine (www.seattlemag.com) A slick monthly lifestyle magazine.
Seattle Times (www.seattletimes.com) The state’s largest daily paper.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Visit Seattle (map; %206-461-5800; www.visitseattle.org; 701 Pike St, Downtown; h9am-5pm daily Jun-Sep, Mon-Fri Oct-May; dWestlake) Information desk inside the Washington State Convention Center’s 1st-floor lobby. You can pick up leaflets even when the desk is closed.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Sea-Tac International Airport (SEA; %206-787-5388; www.portseattle.org/Sea-Tac; 17801 International Blvd; W) Located 13 miles south of downtown Seattle, Sea-Tac has flights all over the US and to some international destinations. Amenities include restaurants, money changers, baggage storage, car-rental agencies, a cell (mobile) phone waiting area (for drivers waiting to pick up arriving passengers) and free wi-fi.
BOAT
The Victoria Clipper (%206-448-5000; www.clippervacations.com; 2701 Alaskan Way, Belltown) ferry from Victoria, BC, docks at Pier 69 just south of the Olympic Sculpture Park in Belltown. Washington State Ferries (map; www.bainbridgeisland.com; 801 Alaskan Way, Pier 52, Waterfront; foot passenger/bike/car $8.50/9.50/19.15) services from Bremerton and Bainbridge Island use Pier 52.
BUS
Various intercity coaches serve Seattle and there is more than one drop-off point – it all depends on which company you are using.
Bellair Airporter Shuttle (map; %866-235-5247; www.airporter.com; 705 Pike St, Downtown) Runs buses to Yakima, Bellingham and Anacortes, and stops at King Street Station (for Yakima) and the Washington State Convention Center (for Bellingham and Anacortes).
Cantrail (map; www.cantrail.com; adult/child $45/23) Amtrak’s bus connector runs four daily services to Vancouver (one way from $42) and picks up and drops off at King Street Station.
Greyhound (%206-628-5526; www.greyhound.com; 503 S Royal Brougham Way, SoDo; dStadium) Connects Seattle with cities all over the country, including Chicago (from $157 one way, two days, three daily), San Francisco ($91, 20 hours, two daily) and Vancouver (Canada; $18, four hours, three daily). The company has its own terminal just south of King Street Station in SoDo, accessible on the Central Link light rail (Stadium Station).
Quick Shuttle (map; %800-665-2122; www.quickcoach.com; tickets $29-59; W) Fast and efficient, with five to six daily buses to Vancouver ($43). Picks up at the Best Western Executive Inn in Taylor Ave N near the Seattle Center. Grab the monorail or walk to downtown.
TRAIN
King Street Station (%206-296-0100; www.amtrak.com; 303 S Jackson St, International District) Amtrak serves Seattle’s King Street Station. Three main routes run through town: the Amtrak Cascades (connecting to Vancouver, Canada; and Portland and Eugene, OR); the very scenic Coast Starlight (connecting Seattle to Oakland and Los Angeles, CA) and the Empire Builder (a cross-continental to Chicago, IL).
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
There are a number of options for making the 13-mile trek from the airport to downtown Seattle. The most efficient is the light-rail service run by Sound Transit (www.soundtransit.org). It runs every 10 to 15 minutes between 5am and midnight; the ride between Sea-Tac Airport and downtown (Westlake Center) takes 36 minutes. There are additional stops in Pioneer Sq and the International District; the service was extended to Capitol Hill and the U District in 2016.
Shuttle Express (%425-981-7000; www.shuttleexpress.com) has a help desk, and pickup and drop-off point on the 3rd floor of the airport garage. It offers rideshare services that are more comfortable than public transit, but less expensive than a cab.
Taxis are available at the parking garage on the 3rd floor. Fares to downtown start at around $55.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
Buses are operated by King County Metro Transit (%206-553-3000; http://kingcounty.gov/depts/transportation/metro.aspx), part of the King County Department of Transportation. The website has schedules, maps and a trip planner.
Pay as you enter the bus; there’s a flat fee of $2.75/1.50 per adult/child; you’ll receive a slip that entitles you to a transfer until the time noted.
Monorail (%206-905-2620; www.seattlemonorail.com; adult/youth $2.25/1.25; h7:30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-11pm Sat & Sun) This cool futuristic train, built for the 1962 World’s Fair, travels only between two stops: Seattle Center and Westlake Center. Fares are $2.25/1.25 per adult/child. Hours change slightly throughout the year, check the website for up-to-date info.
Seattle Streetcar (www.seattlestreetcar.org; $2.25) Two lines. One runs from downtown Seattle (Westlake) to South Lake Union; the other goes from Pioneer Sq via the International District, the Central District and First Hill to Capitol Hill. Stops allow connections with numerous bus routes. Trams run approximately every 15 minutes throughout the day.
TAXI
All Seattle taxi cabs operate at the same rate, set by King County: $2.60 at meter drop, then $2.50 per mile.
Seattle Orange Cab (%206-522-8800; www.orangecab.net)
Seattle Yellow Cab (%206-622-6500; www.seattleyellowcab.com) STITA Taxi (%206-246-9999; www.stitataxi.com)
Olympia
Small in size but big in clout, Washington state capital Olympia is a political, musical and outdoor powerhouse. Look no further than the street-side buskers on 4th Ave, the smartly attired bureaucrats marching across the lawns of the resplendent state legislature and the Gore-Tex-clad outdoor fiends overnighting before rugged sorties into the Olympic Mountains. Progressive Evergreen State College has long lent the place an artsy turn (creator of The Simpsons Matt Groening studied here), while the dive bars and pawn shops of downtown provided an original pulpit for riot-grrrl music and grunge.
Olympia’s economy has struggled in the wake of the timber industry’s collapse, with increasing homelessness among the knock-on effects. But while it may have a few rough edges, it’s still a fun little city.
1Sights
Washington State CapitolLANDMARK
(%360-902-8880; www.olympiawa.gov/community/visiting-the-capitol.aspx; 416 Sid Snyder Ave SW; h7am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun) F
Olympia’s capitol complex is set in a 30-acre park overlooking Capitol Lake with the Olympic Mountains glistening in the background. The campus’ crowning glory is the magnificent Legislative Building. Completed in 1927, it’s a dazzling display of craning columns and polished marble, topped by a 287ft dome that is only slightly smaller than its namesake in Washington, DC. Free, 50-minute tours are available on the hour 10am to 3pm weekdays, 11am Saturday and Sunday, starting just inside the main doors.
Olympia Farmers MarketMARKET
(%360-352-9096; www.olympiafarmersmarket.com; 700 N Capitol Way; h10am-3pm Thu-Sun Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov & Dec, Sat Jan-Mar)
Second only to Seattle’s Pike Place in size and character, Olympia’s local market is a great place to shop for organic herbs, vegetables, flowers, baked goods and the famous specialty: oysters.
4Sleeping & Eating
Most of Olympia’s cool, budget-friendly options have been transformed into much-needed affordable housing, but there are a lot of private-room options (Airbnb etc), plus the usual chain hotels (not a great bargain here) and some nice B&Bs.
Swantown InnB&B$$
(%360-753-9123; www.swantowninn.com; 1431 11th Ave; r from $159; aW)
In the tradition of Washington state B&Bs, the Swantown Inn features great personal service and meticulous attention to detail in an 1887 Queen Anne–style mansion that’s listed on the state historical register. Within sight of the imposing capitol dome, there are four elegantly furnished rooms, and a formidable homemade breakfast.
oTraditions Cafe & World Folk ArtHEALTH FOOD$
(%360-705-2819; www.traditionsfairtrade.com; 300 5th Ave SW; mains $6-12; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; v) S
This comfortable hippie enclave at the edge of Heritage Park offers fresh salads and tasty, healthy sandwiches (smoked salmon with lemon-tahini dressing is a winner), coffee drinks, herbal teas, local ice cream, beer and wine. Posters advertise community-action events, and in the corner is a ‘Peace and Social Justice Lending Library.’ It’s attached to an eclectic folk-art store.
8Information
The State Capitol Visitor Center (%360-902-8880; www.olympiawa.gov/community/visiting-the-capitol.aspx; 103 Sid Snyder Ave SW; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri), run by the Olympia-Lacey-Tumwater Visitor & Convention Bureau, offers information on the capitol campus, the Olympia area and Washington state. There’s another visitor information office inside the main doors of the Legislative Building.
Olympic Peninsula
Surrounded on three sides by sea and exhibiting many of the characteristics of a full-blown island, the remote Olympic Peninsula is about as ‘wild’ and ‘west’ as America gets. What it lacks in cowboys it makes up for in rare, endangered wildlife and dense primeval forest. The peninsula’s roadless interior is largely given over to the notoriously wet Olympic National Park, while the margins are the preserve of loggers, Native American reservations and a smattering of small but interesting settlements, most notably Port Townsend. Equally untamed is the western coastline, America’s isolated end point, where tempestuous ocean and misty old-growth Pacific rainforest meet in aqueous harmony.
Olympic National Park
Declared a national monument in 1909 and a national park in 1938, the 1406-sq-mile Olympic National Park (www.nps.gov/olym; 7-day access per vehicle $30, pedestrian/cyclist $15, 1yr unlimited entry $55) shelters a unique rainforest, copious glaciated mountain peaks and a 57-mile strip of Pacific coastal wilderness that was added to the park in 1953. One of North America’s great wilderness areas, most of it remains relatively untouched by human habitation. Opportunities for independent exploration in this huge backcountry region abound, be they for hiking, fishing, kayaking or skiing.
Eastern Entrances
The graveled Dosewallips River Rd follows the river from Hwy 101 (turnoff approximately 1km north of Dosewallips State Park); due to a washout, the gravel Dosewallips River Rd now ends just 8.5 miles in from Hwy 101, where hiking and bicycle trails begin. Even hiking smaller portions of the two long-distance paths, including the 14.9 mile Dosewallips River Trail, with views of glaciated Mt Anderson, is reason enough to visit the valley. Another eastern entry for hikers is the Staircase Ranger Station (%360-877-5569; hMay-Oct), just inside the national-park boundary, 15 miles from Hoodsport on Hwy 101. Two campgrounds along the eastern edge of the national park are popular: Dosewallips State Park (%888-226-7688; www.parks.state.wa.us/499/dosewallips; 306996 Hwy 101; primitive tent sites $12, standard tent sites $27-37, RV sites $30-45) and Skokomish Park Lake Cushman (%360-877-5760; www.skokomishpark.com; 7211 N Lake Cushman Rd, Hoodsport; tent/RV sites from $33/52; hlate May-early Sep). Both have running water, flush toilets and some RV hookups. Reservations are accepted.
Northern Entrances
The park’s easiest – and hence most popular – entry point is at Hurricane Ridge, 18 miles south of Port Angeles. At the road’s end, an interpretive center gives a stupendous view of Mt Olympus (7965ft) and dozens of other peaks. The 5200ft altitude can mean you’ll hit inclement weather, and the winds here (as the name suggests) can be ferocious. Aside from various summer trekking opportunities, the area maintains the small, family-friendly Hurricane Ridge Ski & Snowboard Area (www.hurricaneridge.com; all-lift day pass $30-40; h10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Dec–Mar).
Popular for boating and fishing is Lake Crescent, the site of the park’s oldest and most reasonably priced lodge (%888-896-3818; www.olympicnationalparks.com; 416 Lake Crescent Rd; lodge r from $139, cottage from $245; hMay-Nov, limited availability winter; paW#). Sumptuous Northwestern-style food is served in the lodge’s ecofriendly restaurant. From Storm King Ranger Station (%360-928-3380; 343 Barnes Point Rd; hMay-Sep) on the lake’s south shore, a 1-mile hike climbs through old-growth forest to Marymere Falls.
Along the Sol Duc River, the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort (%360-327-3583; www.olympicnationalparks.com; 12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Rd, Port Angeles; cabins from $200; hMar-Oct; as) S has lodging, dining, massage and, of course, hot-spring pools, as well as great day hikes.
Western Entrances
Isolated by distance and home of one of the country’s rainiest microclimates, the Pacific side of the Olympics remains the wildest. Only US 101 offers access to its noted temperate rainforests and untamed coastline. The Hoh River Rainforest, at the end of the 19-mile Hoh River Rd, is a Tolkienesque maze of dripping ferns and moss-draped trees. The Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center (%360-374-6925; h9am-4:30pm Sep-Jun, to 6pm Jul & Aug) has information on guided walks and longer backcountry hikes. The attached campground (%360-374-6925; www.nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/camping.htm; campsites $20; hyear-round) has no hookups or showers, and it’s first-come, first-served.
A little to the south lies Lake Quinault, a beautiful glacial lake surrounded by forested peaks. It’s popular for fishing, boating and swimming, and is surrounded by some of the nation’s oldest trees. Lake Quinault Lodge (%360-288-2900; www.olympicnationalparks.com; 345 S Shore Rd; r $250-450; aWs), a luxury classic of 1920s ‘parkitecture,’ has a massive fireplace, a manicured cricket-pitch-quality lawn and a dignified lake-view restaurant serving upscale American cuisine. For a cheaper sleep nearby, try the ultrafriendly Quinault River Inn (%360-288-2237; www.quinaultriverinn.com; 8 River Dr; r $175, RV site $50; naW#) in Amanda Park, a favorite with anglers.
A number of short hikes begin just outside the Lake Quinault Lodge, or you cantry the longer Enchanted Valley Trail, a medium-grade 13-miler that begins from the Graves Creek Ranger Station at the end of South Shore Rd and climbs up to a large meadow resplendent with wildflowers and copses of alder trees.
8Information
The park entry fee is $10/25 per person/vehicle, valid for one week and payable at park entrances. Many park visitor centers double as United States Forestry Service (USFS) ranger stations, where you can pick up permits for wilderness camping ($8).
Forks Chamber of Commerce (%360-374-2531; www.forkswa.com; 1411 S Forks Ave; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun, to 4pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun winter; W)
Olympic National Park Visitor Center (%360-565-3130; www.nps.gov/olym; 3002 Mt Angeles Rd; h9am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 4pm Sep-Jun)
USFS Headquarters (%360-956-2402; www.fs.fed.us/r6/olympic; 1835 Black Lake Blvd SW; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)
Port Townsend
Inventive eateries, elegant fin de siècle hotels and an unusual stash of year-round festivals make Port Townsend an Olympic Peninsula rarity: a weekend vacation that doesn’t require hiking boots. Cut off from the rest of the area by eight bucolic miles of two-lane highway, this is not the spot to base yourself for national-park exploration unless you don’t mind driving a lot. Instead, settle in and enjoy one of the prettiest towns in the state.
1Sights
Fort Worden State ParkSTATE PARK
(%360-344-4412; www.parks.state.wa.us/511/fort-worden; 200 Battery Way; h6:30am-dusk Apr-Oct, 8am-dusk Nov-Mar) F
This attractive park located within Port Townsend’s city limits is the remains of a large fortification system constructed in the 1890s to protect the strategically important Puget Sound area from outside attack – supposedly from the Spanish during the 1898 war. Sharp-eyed film buffs might recognize the area as the backdrop for the movie An Officer and a Gentleman.
Visitors can arrange tours of the Commanding Officer’s Quarters (%360-385-1003; Fort Worden State Park, 200 Battery Way; adult/child $6/1; htours by appointment), a 12-bedroom mansion. You will also find the Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum (www.coastartillerymuseum.org; adult/child $4/2; h11am-4pm), which tells the story of early Pacific coastal fortifications. And there are cultural and musical programs year-round at the Centrum (www.centrum.org; Fort Worden State Park).
Hikes lead along the headland to Point Wilson Lighthouse Station and some wonderful windswept beaches. On the park’s fishing pier is the Port Townsend Marine Science Center (%360-385-5582; www.ptmsc.org; 532 Battery Way; adult/child $5/3; hnoon-5pm Fri-Sun Apr-Oct; c), featuring four touch tanks and kid-friendly interpretive programs. There are also several camping and lodging possibilities.
4Sleeping & Eating
Manresa CastleHISTORIC HOTEL$
(%360-385-5750; www.manresacastle.com; cnr 7th & Sheridan Sts; d from $75, ste $149-229; W)
One of Port Townsend’s signature buildings has been turned into a historic hotel-restaurant that’s light on fancy gimmicks but heavy on period authenticity. This 40-room mansion, built by the town’s first mayor, sits high on a bluff above the port and is one of the first buildings to catch your eye as you arrive by ferry.
oPalace HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(%360-385-0773; www.palacehotelpt.com; 1004 Water St; r from $150; W#)
Built in 1889, this beautiful Victorian building was once a brothel run by the locally notorious Madame Marie, who did business out of the 2nd-floor corner suite. It’s been reincarnated as an attractive, character-filled period hotel with antique furnishings (plus all the modern amenities). Pleasant common spaces; kitchenettes available. The cheapest rooms share a bathroom. Rates are higher on festival weekends.
Doc’s Marina GrillAMERICAN$$
(%360-344-3627; www.docsgrill.com; 141 Hudson St; mains $13-28; h11am-11pm)
With a great location by Port Townsend’s marina, Doc’s offers something for everyone. There are burgers, sandwiches, fish-and-chips, various salads, pastas, steaks, seafood and a few vegetarian options. It’s housed in a historic building that was a nurses’ barracks back in the 1940s.
oFinistereFRENCH$$$
(%360-344-8127; www.restaurantfinistere.com; 1025 Lawrence St; dinner mains $24-34, tasting menu $50; h3-9pm Wed-Fri, 10am-2pm & 3-9pm Sat & Sun)
When Sweet Laurette (formerly in this location) closed, local foodies despaired, but Finistere is a worthy replacement. With a staff whose experience includes Per Se, Canlis, Tilth and other swoon-inducing restaurant names, you expect (and get) a high level of food and service: think saffron risotto with seafood, rabbit lasagna, steak tartare, multiple cheese-plate options, and smoked-salmon tartine for brunch.
8Information
Visitor Center (%360-385-2722; www.ptchamber.org; 2409 Jefferson St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) Pick up a useful walking-tour map and guide to the downtown historic district here.
8Getting There & Away
Washington State Ferries (%206-464-6400; www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/; car & driver/passenger $11.90/3.45) operates daily trips about every 90 minutes (more in high season) to Coupeville on Whidbey Island from the downtown terminal (35 minutes).
Port Angeles
One might wonder if Port Angeles suffers from abandonment issues. People come here mainly to leave: whether by ferry to Victoria, Canada, or on excursions into the northern parts of Olympic National Park. Most of the town – propped up by the lumber industry and backed by the steep-sided Olympic Mountains – is strictly utilitarian, but the downtown core near the ferry dock has plenty of charm.
2Activities
The Olympic Discovery Trail (www.olympicdiscoverytrail.com) is a 30-mile off-road hiking and cycling trail between Port Angeles and Sequim, starting at the end of Ediz Hook, the sand spit that loops around the bay. Bikes can be rented at Sound Bikes & Kayaks (%360-457-1240; www.soundbikeskayaks.com; 120 E Front St; bike rental per hr/day $10/40; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun).
4Sleeping & Eating
Downtown HotelHOTEL$
(%360-565-1125; www.portangelesdowntownhotel.com; 101 E Front St; d with/without bath $80/60; nW)
Nothing special on the outside but surprisingly spacious and tidy within, this no-frills, family-run place down by the ferry launch is Port Angeles’ secret bargain. The dated but comfy rooms are decked out in wicker and wood, and several have water views. The cheapest rooms share a bathroom in the hallway. The soundproofing isn’t great, but the location is tops.
Olympic LodgeHOTEL$$
(%360-452-2993; www.olympiclodge.com; 140 Del Guzzi Dr; d from $140; aiWs)
This is the most comfortable place in town, offering gorgeous rooms, an on-site bistro, a swimming pool with hot tub, and complimentary cookies and soup in the afternoon. Prices vary widely depending on day and month.
oNext Door GastropubAMERICAN$$
(%360-504-2613; www.nextdoorgastropub.com; 113 W First St; burgers $13-16, mains $11-24; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-1am Fri & Sat, 10am-midnight Sun)
Arguably the best place to eat on the peninsula and definitely serving the best burger (go for the Mrs Newton with bacon, fig jam and Brie), this small, lively pub is like a little slice of Portland someone dropped here. It’s no secret, so expect to wait a looong time for a table. Great beer list and a Sunday brunch.
8Information
Port Angeles Visitor Center (%360-452-2363; www.portangeles.org; 121 E Railroad Ave; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5:30pm Sat, noon-3pm Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun Oct-Apr) Adjacent to the ferry terminal, this small office is loaded with brochures and staffed by enthusiastic volunteers.
8Getting There & Away
Clallam Transit (%360-452-4511; www.clallamtransit.com; fares per person $1-10, day pass from $3) Buses go to Forks and Sequim, where they link up with other transit buses that circumnavigate the Olympic Peninsula.
Coho Vehicle Ferry (%888-993-3779; www.cohoferry.com; car & driver one way $66, foot passenger $19) Runs to/from Victoria, Canada (1½ hours, twice daily, four times daily in summer).
Dungeness Line (%360-417-0700; www.dungeness-line.com; Gateway Transit Center, 123 E Front St; one way to Seattle from $39) Runs buses twice a day between Port Angeles, Sequim, Port Townsend, downtown Seattle and Seattle-Tacoma International Airport.
Northwest Peninsula
Several Native American reservations cling to the extreme northwest corner of the continent and are welcoming to visitors. The small weather-beaten settlement of Neah Bay on Hwy 112 is home to the Makah Indian Reservation, whose Makah Museum (%360-645-2711; www.makahmuseum.com; 1880 Bayview Ave; adult/child 5yr & under $6/free; h10am-5pm) displays artifacts from one of North America’s most significant archaeological finds, the 500-year-old Makah village of Ozette. Several miles beyond the museum, a short boardwalk trail leads to stunning Cape Flattery, a 300ft promontory that marks the most northwesterly point in the lower 48 states.
Convenient to the Hoh River Rainforest and the Olympic coastline is Forks, a one-horse lumber town that’s now more famous for its Twilight paraphernalia. It’s a central town for exploring Olympic National Park; a good accommodation choice is the Miller Tree Inn (%360-374-6806; www.millertreeinn.com; 654 E Division St; r from $175; W#).
Northwest Washington
Wedged between Seattle, the Cascades and Canada, northwest Washington draws influences from three sides. Its urban hub is collegiate Bellingham, while its outdoor highlight is the pastoral San Juan Islands, an extensive archipelago that glimmers like a sepia-toned snapshot from another era. Anacortes is the main hub for ferries to the San Juan Islands and Victoria, Canada.
Whidbey Island
While not as detached (there’s a bridge connecting it to adjacent Fidalgo Island at its northernmost point) or nonconformist as the San Juans, Whidbey Island is almost as quiet and pastoral. Having six state parks is a bonus, along with a plethora of B&Bs, two historic fishing villages (Langley and Coupeville), famously good clams and a thriving artist’s community.
Deception Pass State Park (%360-675-2417; www.parks.state.wa.us/497/deception-pass; 41229 N State Hwy 20; day pass $10; hdawn-dusk) straddles the eponymous steep-sided strait that flows between Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands, and incorporates lakes, islands, campsites and 38 miles of hiking trails.
Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve (%360-678-6084; www.nps.gov/ebla; 162 Cemetery Rd, Coupeville) F comprises 17,400 acres encompassing working farms, sheltered beaches, two state parks and the town of Coupeville. This small settlement is one of Washington’s oldest towns and has an attractive seafront, antique stores and a number of old inns, including the Captain Whidbey Inn (%360-678-4097; www.captainwhidbey.com; 2072 W Captain Whidbey Inn Rd; r/cabins from $205/420; W), a newly updated log-built inn dating to 1907. For the famous fresh local clams, head to Christopher’s (%360-678-5480; www.christophersonwhidbey.com; 103 NW Coveland St; lunch mains $12-16, dinner mains $16-26; h11:30am-2pm & 5-8pm Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu, to 8:30pm Fri & Sat).
8Getting There & Around
Regular Washington State Ferries (WSF; %888-808-7977; www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries) link Clinton to Mukilteo and Coupeville to Port Townsend. Free Island Transit (%360-678-7771; www.islandtransit.org) buses run the length of Whidbey every hour daily, except Sundays, from the Clinton ferry dock.
Bellingham
Welcome to a green, liberal and famously livable settlement with a distinctively libertine, nothing-is-too-weird ethos. Mild in both manners and weather, the city is an unlikely alliance of espresso-sipping students, venerable retirees and all-weather triathletes, with brewpubs on every corner. Bellingham’s downtown has been revitalized in recent years with intra-urban trails, stylishly refurbished warehouses, independent food co-ops, tasty brunch spots and – in genteel Fairhaven – a rejuvenated historic district.
1Sights & Activities
Bellingham offers outdoor sights and activities by the truckload. Whatcom Falls Park is a natural wild region that bisects Bellingham’s eastern suburbs. The change in elevation is marked by four sets of waterfalls, including Whirlpool Falls, a popular summer swimming hole.
Fairhaven BicyclesCYCLING
(%360-733-4433; www.fairhavenbicycles.com; 1108 11th St; bike rental per day from $50; h10am-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
Bellingham is one of the most bike-friendly cities in the Northwest, with a well-maintained intra-urban trail going as far south as Larrabee State Park (www.parks.state.wa.us/536/larrabee; Chuckanut Dr; hdawn-dusk). This outfit rents bikes and has maps on local routes.
Moondance Sea Kayak AdventuresKAYAKING
(www.moondancekayak.com; 348 Cove Rd; half-day tours adult/child $70/60; hApr-Sep)
If you’re interested in getting out on the water, try this outfit, which runs family-friendly guided trips in Chuckanut Bay, launching from Larrabee State Park.
4Sleeping & Eating
Larrabee State ParkCAMPGROUND$
(%888-226-7688, 360-676-2093; www.parks.state.wa.us/536/larrabee; Chuckanut Dr; primitive sites $12, tent/RV sites from $27/35)
Seven miles south of Bellingham, along scenic Chuckanut Dr, these campsites sit among Douglas firs and cedars with access to Chuckanut Bay and its 20-plus miles of hiking and biking trails. Light sleepers should note that trains pass by the campground frequently throughout the night; bring earplugs.
Heliotrope HotelMOTEL$
(%360-201-2914; www.heliotropehotel.com; 2419 Elm St; r with shared bath $99, r/ste from $109/130; W#)
A 1950s motor inn that’s been given a stylish makeover, this fun motel has 17 ground-floor rooms in various configurations, plus a secluded grassy yard with a firepit and a central lobby area designed to encourage hanging out. There’s no breakfast but staff have lots of suggestions for restaurants (and nightlife) within walking distance.
oHotel BellwetherBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%360-392-3100; www.hotelbellwether.com; 1 Bellwether Way; r from $250; naiW#)
Bellingham’s finest and most charismatic hotel lies on the waterfront and offers views of Lummi Island. Standard rooms (some with water views) come with Italian furnishings and Hungarian-down duvets, but the finest pick is the 900-sq-ft lighthouse suite (from $599), a converted three-story lighthouse with a wonderful private lookout. There’s a spa and a restaurant on the premises.
oPepper SistersMODERN AMERICAN$$
(%360-671-3414; www.peppersisters.com; 1055 N State St; mains $11-17; h4:30-9pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 9:30pm Fri & Sat; c)
This cheerful, colorful restaurant serves innovative food that is hard to categorize – let’s call it New Mexican cuisine with a Northwestern twist. Try the grilled eggplant tostada, chipotle-and-pink-peppercorn enchilada or Southwest pizza (with green chilies, jack cheese and tomatillo sauce); there’s even a chicken-strip-free kids’ menu.
Colophon CafeCAFE$
(1208 11th St, Fairhaven; sandwiches $8-16, soups $8-10; h9am-8pm Mon-Thu, 9am-9pm Fri & Sat, 10am-7pm Sun)
Linked with Fairhaven’s famous literary haven, Village Books (www.villagebooks.com; 1210 11th St; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun), the Colophon is a multiethnic eatery for people who like to follow their panini with Proust. Renowned for its African peanut soup and chocolate brandy cream pies, the cafe has indoor seating along with an outside wine garden and is ever popular with the local literati.
8Information
Downtown Info Center (%360-671-3990; www.bellingham.org; 1306 Commercial St; h11am-3pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm summer) A downtown location of Bellingham’s visitor info center.
8Getting There & Away
Bellingham is the terminal for Alaska Marine Highway (AMHS; %800-642-0066; www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs; 355 Harris Ave; per person one way from $460) ferries, which travel once a week up the Inside Passage to Juneau, Skagway and other southeast Alaskan ports.
The Bellair Airporter Shuttle (www.airporter.com) runs around the clock to Sea-Tac Airport (round trip $74) and Anacortes (round trip $35).
San Juan Islands
There are 172 landfalls in this expansive archipelago, but unless you’re rich enough to charter your own yacht or seaplane, you’ll be restricted to seeing the big four – San Juan, Orcas, Shaw and Lopez Islands – all served daily by Washington State Ferries. Communally, the islands are famous for their tranquility, whale-watching opportunities, sea kayaking and general nonconformity.
A great way to explore the San Juans is by sea kayak or bicycle. Cycling-wise, Lopez is flat and pastoral and San Juan is worthy of an easy day loop, while Orcas offers the challenge of undulating terrain and a steep 5-mile ride to the top of Mt Constitution.
8Getting There & Around
Two airlines have scheduled flights from the mainland to the San Juans. Kenmore Air (%866-435-9524; www.kenmoreair.com) flies from Lake Union and Lake Washington to Lopez, Orcas and San Juan Islands daily on three- to 10-person seaplanes. Fares start at around $150 one way. San Juan Airlines (%800-874-4434; www.sanjuanairlines.com) flies from Anacortes and Bellingham to the three main islands.
Washington State Ferries leave Anacortes for the San Juans; some continue to Sidney, Canada, near Victoria. Ferries run to Lopez Island (45 minutes), Orcas Landing (60 minutes) and Friday Harbor on San Juan Island (75 minutes). Fares vary by season; the cost of the entire round trip is collected on westbound journeys only (except those returning from Sidney).
Shuttle buses ply Orcas and San Juan Island between May and October.
San Juan Island
San Juan Island is the archipelago’s unofficial capital, a harmonious mix of low forested hills and small rural farms that resonates with a dramatic and unusual 19th-century history. The only real settlement is Friday Harbor, home to the visitor center and Chamber of Commerce (%360-378-5240; www.sanjuanisland.org; 165 1st St S, Friday Harbor; h10am-5pm).
1Sights
San Juan Island National Historical ParkHISTORIC SITE
(%360-378-2240; www.nps.gov/sajh; hvisitor center 8:30am-5pm Jun-Aug, to 4:30pm Sep-May) F
Known more for their scenery than their history, the San Juans nonetheless hide one of the 19th century’s oddest political confrontations, the so-called ‘Pig War’ between the USA and Britain. This curious standoff is showcased in two separate historical parks at either end of the island, which once housed opposing American (%360-378-2240; www.nps.gov/sajh; 4668 Cattle Point Rd, Friday Harbor; hgrounds 8:30am-11pm) F and English (%360-378-2240; www.nps.gov/sajh; h8:30am-11pm) F military encampments.
Lime Kiln Point State ParkSTATE PARK
(%360-902-8844; www.parks.state.wa.us/540/lime-kiln-point; 1567 Westside Rd; h8am-dusk)
Clinging to the island’s rocky west coast, this beautiful park overlooks the deep Haro Strait and has a reputation as one of the best places in the world to view whales from the shoreline. The word is out, however, so the view areas are often packed with hopeful picnickers. There’s a small interpretive center (%360-378-2044; h11am-4pm Jun–mid-Sep) F in the park, along with trails, a restored lime kiln and the landmark Lime Kiln Lighthouse, built in 1919.
4Sleeping & Eating
San Juan County Park CampgroundCAMPGROUND$
(%360-378-1842; https://secure.itinio.com/sanjuan/island/campsites; 380 West Side Rd; hiker & cyclist sites per person $10, campsites from $35)
San Juan’s best campground is beautifully located in a county park on the scenic western shoreline. The site includes a beach and boat launch, along with 20 tent pitches, flush toilets and picnic tables. At night the lights of Victoria, Canada, flicker theatrically from across the Haro Strait. Reservations are mandatory during peak season.
oOlympic Lights B&BB&B$$
(%888-211-6195, 360-378-3186; www.olympiclights.com; 146 Starlight Way; r $165-185; hJun-Sep; W)
Once the centerpiece of a 320-acre estate, this splendidly restored 1895 farmhouse now hosts an equally formidable four-room B&B that stands on an open bluff facing the snow-coated Olympic Mountains. Sunflowers adorn the garden and the hearty breakfasts include homemade buttermilk biscuits. Two-night minimum.
Market ChefDELI$
(%360-378-4546; 225 A St, Friday Harbor; sandwiches from $9; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) S
Super-popular and famous for its delicious sandwiches, including its signature curried-egg salad with roasted peanuts and chutney, or roast beef and rocket. Salads are also available; local ingredients are used. If you’re in town on a Saturday in summer, visit Market Chef at the San Juan Island Farmers Market (10am to 1pm).
oDuck Soup InnFUSION$$$
(%360-378-4878; www.ducksoupsanjuans.com; 50 Duck Soup Lane; mains $21-39; h5-10pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct)
It ain’t cheap, but it’s really good. Situated 4 miles northwest of Friday Harbor amid woods and water, Duck Soup offers the best island fine dining using the fruits of its own herb garden to enhance menu items such as oysters, scallops and Ethiopian lentil stew. The extensive wine list includes island-produced chardonnay.
Orcas Island
More rugged than Lopez yet less crowded than San Juan, Orcas has struck a delicate balance between friendliness and frostiness, development and preservation, tourist dollars and priceless privacy – for the time being, at least. The ferry terminal is at Orcas Landing, 8 miles south of the main village, Eastsound.
On the island’s eastern lobe is Moran State Park (%360-376-6173; 3572 Olga Rd; Discover Pass required at some parking lots per day/year $10/35; h6:30am-dusk Apr-Sep, 8am-dusk Oct-Mar), dominated by Mt Constitution (2409ft), with 40 miles of trails and an amazing 360-degree mountaintop view. Camping (%360-376-2326; www.moranstatepark.com; campsites from $25) is a great option here.
4Sleeping
oGolden Tree HostelHOSTEL$
(%360-317-8693; www.goldentreehostel.com; 1159 North Beach Rd, Eastsound; dm/d with shared bath $47/110; hApr-Oct; iWs)
Located in an 1890s-era heritage house, this hip hostel offers cozy rooms and pleasant common spaces, along with a hot tub and sauna in the grassy garden. Options include a tipi, a bus and a geodesic dome. There’s even a separate recreation building with pool, Foosball, shuffleboard and darts. Bicycle rentals are $20. Friday pizza nights. Reserve in summer.
Doe Bay Village Resort & RetreatHOSTEL$
(%360-376-2291; www.doebay.com; 107 Doe Bay Rd, Olga; campsites from $60, cabins from $100, yurts from $80; W#) S
One of the least expensive resorts in the San Juans, Doe Bay has the atmosphere of an artists’ commune combined with a hippie retreat. Accommodations include sea-view campsites and various cabins and yurts, some with views of the water.
Outlook InnHOTEL$$
(%360-376-2200; www.outlookinn.com; 171 Main St, Eastsound; r/ste from $109/250; iW#)
Eastsound’s oldest and most eye-catching building, the Outlook Inn (1888) is an island institution. Budget rooms are cozy and neat (try for room 30), while the luxurious suites have fireplaces, Jacuzzis and stunning water views from their balconies. Excellent attached cafe.
5Eating & Drinking
oBrown Bear BakingBAKERY$
(cnr Main St & North Beach Rd, Eastsound; pastries $7; h8am-4pm Thu-Mon)
No one wants to pay $7 for a pastry, but the trouble is that once you start eating the baked goods here, nothing else will do. Options include croissants aux amandes, quiche using fresh Orcas Island eggs and roast veggies, caramel sticky buns and fruit pie. Balance the nutritional ledger with one of the hearty soups or sandwiches.
oInn at Ship BaySEAFOOD$$$
(%877-276-7296; www.innatshipbay.com; 326 Olga Rd; mains $27-36; h5-10pm Tue-Sat) S
Locals unanimously rate this place as the best fine-dining experience on the island. The chefs work overtime preparing everything from scratch using the freshest local ingredients. Seafood is the specialty and it’s served in an attractive 1860s orchard house a couple of miles south of Eastsound. There’s also an on-site 11-room hotel (doubles from $195). Reservations recommended.
Island Hoppin’ BreweryBREWERY
(www.islandhoppinbrewery.com; 33 Hope Lane, Eastsound; h11am-9pm)
The location just off Mt Baker Rd near the airport makes this tiny brewery hard to find, but the locals sure know it’s there – this is the place to go to enjoy local brews on tap. Don’t come hungry – only snacks are served, but you’re welcome to bring your own food. A ping-pong table adds some action.
Lopez Island
If you’re going to Lopez – or ‘Slow-pez,’ as locals prefer to call it – take a bike. With its undulating terrain and salutation-offering residents (who are famous for their three-fingered ‘Lopezian wave’), this is the ideal cycling isle. A leisurely pastoral spin can be tackled in a day, with good overnight digs available next to the marina in the Lopez Islander Resort (%360-468-2233; www.lopezfun.com; 2864 Fisherman Bay Rd; r from $159; Ws). For something more upscale, try the Edenwild Inn (%360-468-3238; www.edenwildinn.com; Lopez Rd, Lopez Village; ste from $218; W), a Victorian mansion set in lovely formal gardens.
If you arrive cycleless, call up Village Cycles (%360-468-4013; www.villagecycles.net; 214 Lopez Rd; rental per hr $7-13), which can deliver a bicycle to the ferry terminal for you.
North Cascades
Dominated by Mt Baker and – to a lesser extent – the more remote Glacier Peak, the North Cascades region is made up of a huge swath of protected forests, parks and wilderness areas that dwarf even the expansive Rainier and St Helens parks to the south. The crème de la crème is the North Cascades National Park, a primeval stash of old-growth rainforest, groaning glaciers and untainted ecosystems whose savage beauty goes unexplored by all but 2500 or so annual visitors who penetrate its rainy interior. Dotting this rugged landscape are a tiny handful of small towns, many of which are not much more than a gas station, a cafe and a general store.
Mt Baker
Rising like a ghostly sentinel above the sparkling waters of upper Puget Sound, Mt Baker has been mesmerizing visitors to the Northwest for centuries. A dormant volcano that last belched smoke in the 1850s, this haunting 10,781ft peak shelters 12 glaciers, and in 1999 registered a record-breaking 95ft of snow in one season.
Well-paved Hwy 542, known as the Mt Baker Scenic Byway, climbs 5100ft to Artist Point, 56 miles from Bellingham. Near here you’ll find the Heather Meadows Visitor Center (Mt Baker Hwy, Mile 56; h10am-4pm mid-Jul–late Sep) and a plethora of varied hikes, including the 7.5-mile Chain Lakes Loop that leads you around a half-dozen lakes surrounded by huckleberry meadows.
Receiving more annual snow than any ski area in North America, the Mt Baker Ski Area (%360-734-6771; www.mtbaker.us; lift tickets adult/child $61/38) has 38 runs, eight lifts and a vertical rise of 1500ft. The resort has gained something of a cult status among snowboarders, who have been coming here for the Legendary Baker Banked Slalom every January since 1985.
On your way up the mountain, stop for a bite at authentic honky-tonk bar and restaurant Graham’s (%360-599-9883; 9989 Mt Baker Hwy, Glacier; mains $9-14; hnoon-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun) and grab munchies at Wake & Bakery (%360-599-1658; www.getsconed.com; 6903 Bourne St, Glacier; snacks from $4; h7:30am-5pm), both in the town of Glacier.
Leavenworth
Blink hard and rub your eyes. This isn’t some strange Germanic hallucination. Leavenworth is a former lumber town that underwent a Bavarian makeover back in the 1960s after the re-routing of the cross-continental railway threatened to put it permanently out of business. Swapping wood for tourists, Leavenworth today has successfully reinvented itself as a traditional Romantische Strasse village, right down to the beer, sausages and lederhosen-loving locals (25% of whom are of German descent). The classic Sound of Music mountain setting helps, as does the fact that Leavenworth serves as the main activity center for sorties into the nearby Alpine Lakes Wilderness.
The Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce (%509-548-5807; https://leavenworth.org; 940 US 2; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8am-6pm Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) can advise on the local outdoor activities. Highlights include the best climbing in the state at Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon, about 3 miles northwest of town off US 2.
The Devil’s Gulch is a popular off-road mountain-bike trail (25 miles, four to six hours). Local outfitters Der Sportsmann (%509-548-5623; www.dersportsmann.com; 837 Front St; cross-country ski/snowshoe rental $18/16; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) rents mountain bikes.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Pension AnnaHOTEL$$
(%509-548-6273; www.pensionanna.com; 926 Commercial St; r from $240; W)
The most authentic Bavarian hotel in town is also spotless and incredibly friendly. Each room is kitted out in imported Austrian decor, and the European-inspired breakfasts (included) may induce joyful yodels. A recommended room is the double with hand-painted furniture, but the spacious suite in the adjacent St Joseph’s chapel is perfect for families.
Enzian InnHOTEL$$
(%509-548-5269; www.enzianinn.com; 590 US 2; d from $240; Ws)
At this Leavenworth classic the day starts with a blast on an alpenhorn before breakfast. If that doesn’t send you running for your lederhosen, consider the free putting green (with resident grass-trimming goats), the indoor and outdoor swimming pools, and the nightly pianist pounding out requests in the Bavarian lobby.
München HausGERMAN$
(%509-548-1158; www.munchenhaus.com; 709 Front St; brats $4-7; h11am-8pm, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
The Haus is 100% alfresco, meaning that the hot German sausages and pretzels are essential stomach warmers in winter, while the Bavarian brews will cool you down in summer. The casual beer-garden atmosphere is complemented by an aggressively jaunty accordion soundtrack, laid-back staff, a kettle of cider relish and an epic mustard bar. Hours vary outside summer.
Lake Chelan
Long, slender Lake Chelan is central Washington’s watery playground. The town of Chelan, at the lake’s southeastern tip, is the primary base for accommodations and services, and has a USFS Ranger Station (%509-682-4900; www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/about-forest/offices; 428 W Woodin Ave; h7:45am-4:30pm Mon-Fri).
Lake Chelan State Park (%509-687-3710; https://parks.state.wa.us/531/Lake-Chelan; 7544 S Lakeshore Rd; primitive/standard sites from $12/27) has 144 campsites; a number of lakeshore campgrounds are accessible only by boat. If you’d rather sleep in a real bed, try the great-value Midtowner Motel (%800-572-0943; www.midtowner.com; 721 E Woodin Ave; r from $125; aiWs) or the delightful Riverwalk Inn (%509-682-2627; www.riverwalkinnchelan.com; 205 E Wapato Ave; d $69-199; W#), both in town.
Several wineries have also opened in the area and many have excellent restaurants. Try Tsillan Cellars (%509-682-9463; www.tsillancellars.com; 3875 US 97A; hnoon-6pm) or the swanky Italian Sorrento’s Ristorante (%509-682-9463; https://tsillancellars.com/dining; 3875 US 97A; mains $20-38; h5pm-late daily, plus noon-3pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun).
Link Transit (%509-662-1155; www.linktransit.com) buses connect Chelan with Wenatchee and Leavenworth ($2.50 one way).
Beautiful Stehekin, on the northern tip of Lake Chelan, is accessible only by boat (%509-682-4584; www.ladyofthelake.com; 1418 W Woodin Ave; one way $22-37, round trip to Stehekin $61), or a long hike across Cascade Pass, 28 miles from the lake. You’ll find lots of information about hiking, campgrounds and cabin rentals at www.stehekin.com. Most facilities are open from mid-June to mid-September.
Methow Valley
The Methow’s combination of powdery winter snow and abundant summer sunshine has transformed this valley into one of Washington’s primary recreation areas. You can bike, hike and fish in summer, and cross-country ski on the second-biggest snow trail network in the US in winter.
The 200km of trails are maintained by the nonprofit Methow Valley Sport Trails Association (MVSTA; %509-996-3287; www.methowtrails.org; 309 Riverside Ave, Winthrop; h8:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) S, which in winter provides the most comprehensive network of hut-to-hut (and hotel-to-hotel) skiing in North America. An extra blessing is that few people seem to know about it. For classic accommodations and easy access to the skiing, hiking and cycling trails, decamp at the exquisite Sun Mountain Lodge (%509-996-2211; www.sunmountainlodge.com; 604 Patterson Lake Rd; r from $285, cabins from $415; aWs), 10 miles west of the town of Winthrop. Winthrop is also the locus of the area’s best eating: try the fine-dining Arrowleaf Bistro (%509-996-3920; www.arrowleafbistro.com; 253 Riverside Ave; mains $22-28; h4-10pm Wed-Sun).
North Cascades National Park
Even the names of the lightly trodden, dramatic mountains in North Cascades National Park (www.nps.gov/noca) sound wild and untamed: Desolation Peak, Jagged Ridge, Mt Despair and Mt Terror. Not surprisingly, the region offers some of the best backcountry adventures outside of Alaska.
The North Cascades Visitor Center (%206-386-4495, ext 11; 502 Newhalem St, Newhalem; h9am-5pm mid-May–Sep) S, in the small settlement of Newhalem on Hwy 20, is the best orientation point for visitors and is staffed by expert rangers who can enlighten you on the park’s highlights.
Built in the 1930s for loggers working in the valley (which was soon to be flooded by Ross Dam), the floating cabins at the Ross Lake Resort (%206-486-3751; www.rosslakeresort.com; 503 Diablo St, Rockport; cabins $205-385; hmid-Jun–late Oct; n) on the eponymous lake’s west side are the state’s most unique accommodations. There’s no road in – guests can either hike the 2-mile trail from Hwy 20 or take the resort’s tugboat-taxi-and-truck shuttle from the parking area near Diablo Dam.
Northeastern Washington
Spokane
Washington’s second-biggest population center is situated at the nexus of the Pacific Northwest’s ‘Inland Empire’, on the banks of the Spokane River. It’s home to the impressive Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture, Gonzaga University, the 1974 World’s Fair site, and a dramatic waterfall right in the middle of a well-preserved historic downtown core. There are plenty of rough edges left, but a patient visitor can find a lot of surprising beauty and charm in this oft-maligned city.
1Sights
oNorthwest Museum of Arts & CultureMUSEUM
(MAC; %509-456-3931; www.northwestmuseum.org; 2316 W 1st Ave; adult/child $10/5; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm 3rd Thu of month; c)
In a striking state-of-the-art building in the beautiful Browne’s Addition neighborhood, this museum is well worth a visit. It has one of the finest collections of Native American artifacts in the Northwest, and stages ambitious temporary exhibits several times a year that illuminate key regional artists (such as glass master Dale Chihuly) and cultural phenomena (pioneer quilts, indigenous beadwork etc).
Riverfront ParkPARK
(www.spokaneriverfrontpark.com; c)
The site of the 1974 World’s Fair and Exposition, this downtown park has numerous highlights, including a 17-point Sculpture Walk and the scenic Spokane Falls. A short gondola ride, the Spokane Falls SkyRide (adult/child $7.75/5.75; h11am-7pm) takes you directly across the falls, or get an equally spectacular view from the Monroe Street Bridge, built in 1911 and still one of the largest concrete arches in the USA. An ongoing renovation project means that a few areas of the park are closed due to construction.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel RubyMOTEL$
(%509-747-1041; www.hotelrubyspokane.com; 901 W 1st Ave; r from $81; paW#)
An arty redesign of a formerly basic motel, the Ruby has a ‘70s feel, with cool original art on the walls and a sleek cocktail lounge adjoining the lobby. Rooms have mini fridge and microwave, and you can use the gym at the nearby sister hotel, Ruby 2, cool in its own right (rooms from $78). The downtown location rules.
oHistoric Davenport HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(%800-899-1482; www.thedavenporthotel.com; 10 S Post St; r from $200; aWs)
This historic landmark (opened in 1914) is considered one of the best hotels in the country. Even if you’re not staying here, linger in the exquisite lobby or have a drink in the Peacock Lounge. The adjacent, modern Davenport Tower sports a safari-themed lobby and bar.
oRuinsAMERICAN, FUSION$$
(%509-443-5606; 825 N Monroe St; small plates $6-17; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm Tue-Fri, 9:30am-2pm & 5-11pm Sat, 9:30am-2pm & 5-9pm Sun, 5-10pm Mon)
This stylish little place has a constantly changing menu of mostly small plates and snacks to pair with perfectly crafted cocktails. Expect fresh twists on anything from pad Thai to street tacos, banh mi to burgers, plus some heartier fare (recently a carne asada plate) for sharing – or not. Slip in late and grab a seat at the bar.
oWild Sage American BistroNORTHWESTERN US$$$
(www.wildsagebistro.com; 916 W 2nd Ave; mains $18-42; h4-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri-Sun) S
The intimate yet simple decor and fresh local ingredients, creatively and elegantly prepared, see Wild Sage consistently rated as one of Spokane’s top dining spots. The Alaskan halibut, honey-Dijon chicken and coconut-cream layer cake come highly recommended, and there’s a gluten-free menu and an excellent selection of wines and craft cocktails.
6Drinking & Entertainment
Atticus CoffeeCOFFEE
(222 N Howard St; tea/espresso from $2/3; h7:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun)
As much a well-curated gift shop as a coffeehouse, this bookish, bright and convivial cafe serves an amazing selection of loose teas and perfect coffee. Good luck resisting the urge to pick up a handmade mug, artisan soap or kitty-faced pot holder while you’re here. Wi-fi is available Monday to Friday.
No-Li BrewhouseBREWERY
(%509-242-2739; www.nolibrewhouse.com; 1003 E Trent Ave; mains $12-18; h11:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat)
A massively popular hangout near Gonzaga University, Spokane’s best microbrewery serves some weird and wonderful flavors, including a tart cherry ale and an imperial stout with coffee, chocolate and brown-sugar tones. Food-wise, check out the cod and chips cooked in batter made with the brewery’s own pale ale.
8Information
Visitor Information Center (%888-776-5263, 509-744-3341; www.visitspokane.com; 620 W Spokane Falls Blvd; h10am-7pm Jun-Sep, to 6pm rest of year) Near the riverfront, this office has plenty of information on the city and region.
8Getting There & Away
Spokane International Airport (www.spokaneairports.net) Alaska, American, Delta, Frontier, Southwest and United airlines all offer nonstop services to 16 destinations including Seattle, Portland OR; San Francisco, CA; Denver, CO; Minneapolis, MN; Salt Lake City, UT; and Phoenix, AZ.
Spokane Intermodal Center (221 W 1st Ave) Buses and trains depart from this station.
WORTH A TRIP
GRAND COULEE DAM
While the more famous Hoover Dam (conveniently located between Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon) gets around 1.6 million visitors per year, the four-times-larger and arguably more significant Grand Coulee Dam (inconveniently located far from everything) gets only a trickle of tourism. If you’re in the area, don’t miss it – it’s one of the country’s most spectacular displays of engineering and you’ll get to enjoy it crowd-free.
The Grand Coulee Dam Visitor Center (%509-633-9265; www.usbr.gov/pn/grandcoulee/visit; h9am-11pm mid-May–Jul, to 10:30pm Aug, to 9:30pm Sep, to 5pm Oct–mid-May) details the history of the dam and surrounding area with movies, photos and interactive exhibits. Free guided tours of the facility run daily at 10am, noon, 2pm and 3:30pm and involve taking a glass-walled elevator 465ft down into the Third Power Plant, where you can view the generators from an observation deck.
South Cascades
More rounded and less hemmed in than their saw-toothed cousins to the north, the South Cascades are nonetheless higher. Their pinnacle in more ways than one is 14,411ft Mt Rainier, the fifth-highest mountain in the lower 48 states and arguably one of the most dramatic stand-alone mountains in the world. Further south, fiery Mt St Helens needs zero introduction, while unsung Adams glowers way off to the east like a sulking middle child.
Mt Rainier National Park
The USA’s fifth-highest peak outside Alaska, majestic Mt Rainier is also one of its most beguiling. Encased in a 368-sq-mile national park, the mountain’s snowcapped summit and forest-covered foothills boast numerous hiking trails, huge swaths of flower-carpeted meadows, and an alluring conical peak that presents a formidable challenge for aspiring climbers.
Mt Rainier National Park (www.nps.gov/mora; car $30, pedestrian & cyclist $15, 1yr pass $55) has four entrances. Call 800-695-7623 for road conditions. The National Park Service (NPS) website includes downloadable maps and descriptions of dozens of park trails. The most famous is the hard-core, 93-mile-long Wonderland Trail, which completely circumnavigates Mt Rainier and takes 10 to 12 days to tackle.
Campgrounds in the park have running water and toilets, but no showers or RV hookups. Reservations at park campsites (%800-365-2267; www.nps.gov/mora; campsites $20) are strongly advised during summer and can be made up to two months in advance by phone or online. For overnight backcountry trips, you’ll need a wilderness permit – check the NPS website for details.
Nisqually Entrance
The busiest and most convenient gate to Mt Rainier National Park, Nisqually lies on Hwy 706 via Ashford, near the park’s southwest corner. It’s open year-round. Longmire, 7 miles inside the Nisqually entrance, has a museum and information center (%360-569-6575; Hwy 706, Longmire; hmuseum 9am-4:30pm year-round, info center May-Oct) F, a number of important trailheads, and the rustic National Park Inn (%360-569-2275; Hwy 706, Longmire; r with/without bath from $203/138; a), complete with an excellent restaurant.
More hikes and interpretive walks can be found 12 miles further east at loftier Paradise, which is served by the informative Henry M Jackson Visitor Center (%360-569-6571; Paradise; h10am-5pm daily May-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Apr), and the vintage Paradise Inn (%360-569-2275; Paradise; r with/without bath from $182/123; hmid-May–Oct; n), a historical ‘parkitecture’ inn constructed in 1916. Climbs to the top of Rainier leave from the inn; excellent four-day guided ascents are led by Rainier Mountaineering Inc (%888-892-5462; www.rmiguides.com; 30027 Hwy 706 E, Ashford; 4-day climb $1163).
Other Entrances
The three other entrances to Mt Rainier National Park are Ohanapecosh, accessed via Hwy 123 and the town of Packwood, where lodging is available; White River, off Hwy 410, literally the highroad (6400ft) to the beautiful viewpoint at the Sunrise Lodge Cafeteria (Sunrise Park Rd, Sunrise; mains $6-12; h10am-7pm Jul & Aug, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun Sep); and remote Carbon River in the northwest corner, which gives access to the park’s inland rainforest.
Mt St Helens National Volcanic Monument
What it lacks in height, Mt St Helens makes up for in fiery infamy – 57 people perished on the mountain when it erupted with a force of 1500 atomic bombs on May 18, 1980. The cataclysm began with an earthquake measuring 5.1 on the Richter scale, which sparked the biggest landslide in recorded history and buried 230 sq miles of forest under millions of tons of volcanic rock and ash. Today it’s a fascinating landscape of recovering forests, new river valleys and ash-covered slopes. There’s an $8 per adult fee to enter the National Monument.
Northeastern Entrance
From the main northeast entrance on Hwy 504, your first stop should be the Silver Lake Visitor Center (%360-274-0962; https://parks.state.wa.us/245/Mount-St-Helens; 3029 Spirit Lake Hwy; adult/child $5/free; h9am-4pm Mar–mid-May & mid-Sep–Oct, to 5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-4pm Thu-Mon Nov-Feb; c) S, which has films, exhibits and free information about the mountain (including trail maps). For a closer view of the destructive power of nature, venture to the Johnston Ridge Observatory (%360-274-2140; www.fs.usda.gov; 24000 Spirit Lake Hwy; day use $8; h10am-6pm mid-May–Oct), situated at the end of Hwy 504, which looks directly into the mouth of the crater. A welcome stop in an accommodations-light area, the Eco Park Resort (%360-274-7007; www.ecoparkresort.com; 14000 Spirit Lake Hwy, Toutle; campsites $25, 6-person yurts $95, cabins $150; #) offers campsites and RV hookups, and basic two- or four-person cabins.
Southeastern & Eastside Entrances
The southeastern entrance via the town of Cougar on Hwy 503 holds some serious lava terrain, including the 2-mile-long Ape Cave lava tube, which you can explore year-round; be prepared for the chill as it remains a constant 41°F (5°C). Bring two light sources per adult or rent lanterns at Apes’ Headquarters (%360-449-7800; Forest Rd 8303; h10am-5pm mid-Jun–early Sep) for $5 each.
The eastside entrance is the most remote, but the harder-to-reach Windy Ridge viewpoint on this side gives you a palpable, if eerie, sense of the destruction from the blast. It’s often closed until June. A few miles down the road you can descend 600ft on the mile-long Harmony Trail (hike 224) to Spirit Lake.
Central & Southeastern Washington
The sunny, dry, near-California-looking central and southeastern parts of Washington harbor one not-so-secret weapon: wine. The fertile land that borders the Nile-like Yakima and Columbia River Valleys is awash with enterprising new wineries producing quality grapes that now vie with the Napa and Sonoma Valleys for recognition. Yakima and its more attractive cousin Ellensburg once held the edge, but nowadays the real star is Walla Walla.
Yakima & Ellensburg
The main reason to stop in Yakima is to visit one of the numerous wineries that lie between here and Benton City; pick up a map at the visitor center (%800-221-0751; www.visityakima.com; 101 N 8th St; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri).
A better layover is Ellensburg, a diminutive settlement 36 miles to the northwest that juxtaposes the state’s largest rodeo (each Labor Day) with a town center that has some well-preserved historic buildings. Grab your latte at local roaster D&M Coffee (%509-925-5313; www.dmcoffee.com; 323 N Pearl St; h7am-8pm; W) S and eat at the unconventional Yellow Church Cafe (%509-933-2233; www.theyellowchurchcafe.com; 111 S Pearl St; lunch mains $12-17, dinner mains $14-27; h11am-9pm Mon-Thu, 8am-9pm Fri-Sun; v) or fantastic upstart the Red Pickle (%509-367-0003; 301 N Pine St; mains from $10, cocktails $8; h11am-9pm Wed-Sun, 4-9pm Tue).
Greyhound services both cities, with buses to Seattle, Spokane and points in between.
Walla Walla
Walla Walla has converted itself into the hottest wine-growing region outside of California. While venerable Marcus Whitman College is the town’s most obvious cultural attribute, you’ll also find zany coffee bars, cool wine-tasting rooms, fine Queen Anne architecture, and one of the state’s freshest and most vibrant farmers markets.
1Sights & Activities
You don’t need to be sloshed on wine to appreciate Walla Walla’s historical and cultural heritage. Its Main St has won countless historical awards, and to bring the settlement to life, the local chamber of commerce (%509-525-0850; www.wwvchamber.com; 29 E Sumach St; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) has concocted some interesting walking tours, complete with leaflets and maps. Main St and environs are also crammed with tasting rooms. Expect tasting fees of $5 to $10.
Fort Walla Walla MuseumMUSEUM
(%509-525-7703; www.fwwm.org; 755 Myra Rd; adult/child $9/4; h10am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb; c)
This museum occupies the fort’s old cavalry stables, with a recreated pioneer village outside. The main exhibit hall contains displays on the Lewis and Clark expedition, local agriculture and military history, and the four large stable buildings hold collections of farm implements, a jail cell and a plastic replica of a 33-mule team used for harvesting wheat in the 1920s.
Waterbrook WineWINE
(%509-522-1262; www.waterbrook.com; 10518 W US 12; tasting $5-15; h11am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 6pm Fri & Sat)
About 10 miles west of town, this large, extremely manicured modern winery feels a bit slick and commercial, but it has attentive staff and the pond-side patio is a great place to sample from the long selection of wines on a sunny day. Full menu served Thursday to Sunday.
Amavi CellarsWINE
(%509-525-3541; www.amavicellars.com; 3796 Peppers Bridge Rd; tasting $10; h10am-4pm)
South of Walla Walla, amid a scenic spread of grape and apple orchards, you can sample some of the most talked-about wines in the valley (try the syrah and cabernet sauvignon). The classy yet comfortable patio has views of the Blue Mountains.
4Sleeping & Eating
Walla Walla Garden MotelMOTEL$
(%509-529-1220; www.wallawallagardenmotel.com; 2279 Isaacs Ave; s/d from $72/94; naW)
A simple family-run motel halfway to the airport, the Garden Motel is welcoming and bike-friendly, with safe bike storage and plenty of local maps.
Marcus Whitman HotelHOTEL$$
(%509-525-2200; www.marcuswhitmanhotel.com; 6 W Rose St; r from $159; paW#)
Walla Walla’s best-known landmark is also the town’s only tall building, impossible to miss with its distinctive rooftop turret. In keeping with the settlement’s well-preserved image, the redbrick 1928 beauty has been elegantly renovated and decorated, with ample rooms and suites in rusts and browns, embellished with Italian-crafted furniture, huge beds and great views over the nearby Blue Mountains.
GrazeCAFE$
(%509-522-9991; www.grazeplaces.com; 5 S Colville St; sandwiches $8-12; h10am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, to 3:30pm Sun; v)
Amazing sandwiches are packed for your picnic or (if you can get a table) eaten in at this simple cafe. Try the turkey-and-pear panini with provolone and blue cheese or the flank-steak torta with pickled jalapeños, avocado, tomato, cilantro and chipotle dressing. There are plenty of vegetarian options.
oSaffron Mediterranean KitchenMEDITERRANEAN$$$
(%509-525-2112; www.saffronmediterraneankitchen.com; 125 W Alder St; flatbreads $14-16, mains $25-45; h2-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-9pm Sat & Sun)
This place isn’t about cooking, it’s about alchemy: Saffron takes seasonal, local ingredients and turns them into pure gold. The Med-inspired menu lists dishes such as asparagus-fontina flatbread, wood-grilled quail with dates and olives, and eggplant, lamb and pork-belly lasagna. Then there are the intelligently paired wines – and gorgeous atmosphere. Reserve.
8Getting There & Away
Alaska Airlines has two daily flights to Seattle-Tacoma International Airport from Walla Walla Regional Airport (www.wallawallaairport.com; 45 Terminal Loop), northeast of town off US 12.
Greyhound buses run once daily to Seattle ($47, six hours) via Pasco, Yakima and Ellensburg; change buses in Pasco for Spokane.