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Pantheon and Navona | Campo de’ Fiori and Ghetto | Spagna | Monti, Esquilino, and San Lorenzo | Vatican, Borgo, Prati, and Northwest Rome | Trastevere | Testaccio | Cafés | Gelato

Updated by Dana Klitzberg

Rome has been known since ancient times for its great feasts and banquets, and though the days of the triclinium and the Saturnalia are long past, dining out is still the Romans’ favorite pastime. The city is distinguished more by its good attitude toward eating out than by a multitude of world-class restaurants. Simple, traditional cuisine reigns, although things are slowly changing as talented young chefs explore new culinary frontiers. Many of the city’s restaurants cater to a clientele of regulars, and atmosphere and attitude are usually friendly and informal. The flip side is that in Rome the customer isn’t always right—the chef and waiters are in charge, and no one will beg forgiveness if they refuse to serve you cappuccino after your meal. Be flexible and you’re sure to mangiar bene (eat well). Lunch is served from approximately 12:30 to 2:30 and dinner from 7:30 or 8 until about 10:30, though some restaurants stay open later, especially in summer, when patrons linger at sidewalk tables to enjoy the parade of people and the ponentino (evening breeze).

Please note that the “Average Cost” listed for each restaurant means a meal comprising three courses: primo (usually pasta or an appetizer), secondo (meat or fish main course), and dolce (dessert).

Pantheon and Navona

Pantheon

Armando al Pantheon.
$$ | ROMAN | Right in the shadow of the Pantheon sits this wonderful trattoria, open since 1961. It gets its fair share of tourists, perhaps more at lunch when groups of sightseers need to take a break and this spot is conveniently located, and highly recommended. But there’s always a buzz here and an air of authenticity, witnessed by Roman antiques shop owners who have been coming here to dine once a week for 25 years. You can tell these older gentlemen who come here to enjoy a four-course meal…and scold the waitress, by name, when she brings coffee before the profiteroles. This is just the place to try Roman artichokes or vignarola (a fava bean, asparagus, pea, and guanciale stew) in the spring, or the wild boar brushetta in winter. Pastas are filling and great, and secondi deliver all the Roman staples: oxtail, baby lamb chops, tripe, meatballs, and other hearty fare. If you have room, try the blueberry panna cotta for a sweet ending. | Average cost: €35 | Salita dei Crescenzi 31, Pantheon | 00186 | 06/68803034 | www.armandoalpantheon.it | Closed Sun. No dinner Sat.

Hostaria dell’Orso.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | Back in the Hollywood-on-the-Tiber 1950s, this was the place to be. Everyone from Sophia Loren to Aristotle Onassis reveled in the historic setting: a 15th-century palazzo straight out of a Renaissance painting, replete with dark wood-beam ceilings, Gothic fireplaces, terra-cotta floors, and frescoes restored to their original glory. Today, after several fallow decades, a face-lift has brightened the salons with bright orange leather chairs and blue glass goblets. Even more up-to-the-second is the menu fashioned by Italian superchef Gualtiero Marchese. The alta cucina deftly utilizes many simple ingredients (like top quality baby pig or black cod) and just a handful of ingredients—some very Italian, others more esoteric—to tease out as much flavor as possible. One artfully presented dinner included a kidney risotto with Provolone cheese fondue and licorice dust, a pigeon wth peanut sauce and Java black pepper, and a crème brûlée with coffee parfait, chocolate ice-cream, and cotton candy. To further shake things up, there’s a piano bar and disco on other floors within the building, so why not dance off this once-in-lifetime fête at Cabala, the club upstairs, with a nightcap? | Average cost: €95 | Via dei Soldati 25c, Piazza Navona | 00186 | 06/68301192 | www.hdo.it | Reservations essential. Jacket required | Closed Sun.

Il Bacaro.
$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | With a handful of choice tables set outside against an ivy-draped wall, this tiny candlelit spot not far from the Pantheon makes for an ideal evening, equally suited for a romantic twosome or close friends and convivial conversation. Pastas—like orecchiette (little ear-shaped pasta) with broccoli and sausage, a dish that lip-smacks of Puglia—are star players. As a bonus, the kitchen keeps its clients from picking at each other’s plates by offering side dishes of all the pastas ordered among those at the table. The choice main courses are mostly meat—the beef fillet with balsamic vinegar or London broil–style marinated in olive oil and rosemary are winners. | Average cost: €45 | Via degli Spagnoli 27, Pantheon | 00186 | 06/6872554 | www.ilbacaro.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and 1 wk in Aug. No lunch Sat.

Navona

Fodor’s Choice | Cul de Sac.
$$ | WINE BAR | This popular wine bar near Piazza Navona is among the city’s oldest enoteche and offers a book-length selection of wines from Italy, France, the Americas, and elsewhere. Food is eclectic, ranging from a huge assortment of Italian meats and cheeses (try the delicious lonza, cured pork loin, or speck, a northern Italian smoked prosciutto) to various Mediterranean dishes, including delicious baba ghanoush, a tasty Greek salad, and a spectacular wild boar pâté. Outside tables get crowded fast, so arrive early, or come late, as they serve until about 1 am. | Average cost: €35 | Piazza Pasquino 73, Piazza Navona | 00186 | 06/68801094 | www.enotecaculdesac.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed 2 wks in Aug.

Fodor’s Choice | Da Baffetto.
$ | PIZZA | Down a cobblestone street not far from Piazza Navona, this is Rome’s most popular pizzeria and a summer favorite for street-side dining. The debate is constant whether or not this spot is massively overrated, but as with all the “great” pizzerias in Rome, it’s hard to argue with the line that forms outside here on weekends. Happily, outdoor tables (enclosed and heated in winter) provide much-needed additional seating and turnover is fast (and lingering not encouraged). Baffetto 2, at Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo 18, is an extension of the pizzeria with the addition of pasta and secondi—and doesn’t suffer from the overcrowding of the original location. | Average cost: €22 | Via del Governo Vecchio 114, Navona | 00186 | 06/6861617 | No credit cards | Closed Aug. and Tues. No lunch Mon.–Fri.

Fodor’s Choice | Etablì.
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | On a narrow vicolo off beloved Piazza del Fico, this multidimensional locale serves as a lounge-bar, and becomes a hot spot by aperitivo hour. Beautifully finished with vaulted wood-beam ceilings, wrought-iron touches, plush leather sofas, and chandeliers, it’s all modern Italian farmhouse chic. In the restaurant section (the place is sprawling), it’s minimalist Provençal hip (etabli is French for the regionally typical tables within). And the food is clean and Mediterranean, with touches of Asia in the raw fish appetizers. Pastas are more traditional Italian, and the secondi run the gamut from land to sea. The place fills up by dopo cena (“after dinner”) when it becomes a popular spot for sipping and posing. | Average cost: €55 | Vicolo delle Vacche 9/a, Navona | 00186 | 06/6871499 | www.etabli.it | Closed Sun. in summer, Mon. in winter.

Fodor’s Choice | Il Convivio.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | In a tiny, nondescript vicolo north of Piazza Navona, the three Troiani brothers—Angelo in the kitchen, and brothers Giuseppe and Massimo presiding over the dining room and wine cellar—have quietly been redefining the experience of Italian eclectic alta cucina (haute cuisine) for many years. Antipasti include a selection of ultra-fresh raw seafood preparations in the mixed crudi, while a “carbomare” pasta is a riff on tradition, substituting pancetta with fresh fish roe and house-cured bottarga (salted fish roe). Or opt for one of the famed signature dishes, including a fabulous version of a cold-weather pigeon main course prepared four different ways. Service is attentive without being overbearing, and the wine list is exceptional. It is definitely a splurge spot. | Average cost: €110 | Vicolo dei Soldati 31, Navona | 00186 | 06/6869432 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., 1 wk in Jan., and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch.

Campo de’ Fiori and Ghetto

Campo de’ Fiori

Da Sergio.
$ | ROMAN | Every neighborhood has at least one “old-school” Roman trattoria, and for the Campo de’ Fiori area, Da Sergio is it. Once you’re seated (there’s usually a wait), the red-and-white-check paper table-covering, bright lights, ‘50s kitsch, and the stuffed boar’s head on the wall remind you that you’re smack in the middle of the genuine article. Go for the delicious version of pasta all’amatriciana, or the generous helping of gnocchi with a tomato sauce and lots of Parmesan cheese, served, as tradition dictates, on Thursday. | Average cost: €25 | Vicolo delle Grotte 27 | 00186 | 06/6864293 | Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug.

Fodor’s Choice | Filetti di Baccalà.
$ | ITALIAN | For years, Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara (to use its official name) has been serving just that—battered, deep-fried fillets of salt cod—and not much else. You’ll find no-frills starters such as bruschette al pomodoro (garlic-rubbed toast topped with fresh tomatoes and olive oil), sautéed zucchini, and, in winter months, the cod is served alongside puntarelle, chicory stems tossed with a delicious anchovy-garlic-lemon vinaigrette. The location, down the street from Campo de’ Fiori in a little piazza in front of the beautiful Santa Barbara church, begs you to eat at one of the outdoor tables, weather permitting. Long operating hours allow those still on U.S. time to eat as early (how gauche!) as 6 pm. | Average cost: €18 | Largo dei Librari 88, Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/6864018 | No credit cards | Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch.

Ditirambo.
$$ | ITALIAN | Don’t let the country-kitchen ambience fool you. At this little spot off Campo de’ Fiori, the constantly changing selection of offbeat takes on Italian classics is a step beyond ordinary Roman fare. The place is usually packed with diners who appreciate the adventuresome kitchen, though you may overhear complaints about the brusque service. Antipasti can be delicious and unexpected, like Gorgonzola-pear soufflé drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar, or a mille-feuille of eggplant, wild fennel, and anchovies. But people really love this place for rustic dishes like osso buco, Calabrian eggplant “meatballs,” and hearty pasta with rabbit ragù. | Average cost: €40 | Piazza della Cancelleria 74, Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/6871626 | www.ristoranteditirambo.it | Closed Aug. No lunch Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | Il Sanlorenzo.
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | This revamped, gorgeous space—think chandeliers and soaring original brickwork ceilings—houses one of the better seafood spots in the Eternal City. Tempting tasting menus are on offer, as well as à la carte items like a wonderful series of small plates in their crudo (raw fish) appetizer, which can include a perfectly seasoned fish tartare trio, sweet scampi (local langoustines), and a wispy-thin carpaccio of red shrimp. The restaurant’s version of spaghetti with lobster is an exquisite example of how this dish should look and taste (the secret is cooking the pasta in a lobster stock). | Average cost: €85 | Via dei Chiavari 4/5, Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/6865097 | www.ilsanlorenzo.it | No lunch Sat.–Mon.

L’Angolo Divino.
$ | WINE BAR | There’s something about this cozy wine bar that feels as if it’s in a small university town instead of a bustling metropolis. Serene blue-green walls lined with wood shelves of wines from around the Italian peninsula add to the warm atmosphere. Smoked fish, cured meats, cheeses, and salads make a nice lunch or light dinner, and the kitchen stays open until the wee hours. | Average cost: €25 | Via dei Balestrari 12, Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/6864413 | Closed 1 wk in Aug. No dinner Mon.

Osteria La Quercia.
$$ | ITALIAN | The beautiful Piazza della Quercia was once devoid of any restaurants, until this casual trattoria opened its doors. Now diners can sit under the gorgeous looming oak tree that lends the square its name. Its menu is simple—the usual suspects include fried starters like stuffed zucchini flowers and baccalà, as well as Roman pasta dishes like spaghetti carbonara and amatriciana. Main dishes include baby lamb chops, involtini (thinly sliced beef stuffed with herbs and bread crumbs, rolled and baked), and meatballs in tomato sauce. The ubiquitous Roman sautéed cicoria (chicory) with olive oil and chili pepper is a good choice for a green side. Service is friendly and allows for lingering on balmy Roman afternoons and evenings—so close, and yet so seemingly far from the chaos of nearby Campo de’ Fiori. | Average cost: €35 | Piazza della Quercia 23, Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/68300932 | www.laquerciaosteria.com.

Roscioli.
$$$ | WINE BAR | More like a Caravaggio painting than a place of business, this food shop and wine bar is dark and decadent. The shop in front beckons with top-quality comestibles: wild Alaskan smoked salmon, hand-sliced prosciutto from Italy and Spain, more than 300 cheeses, and a dizzying array of wines. Venture farther inside to be seated in a wine cave–like room where you’ll be served artisanal cheeses and salumi, as well as an extensive selection of unusual menu choices and interesting takes on classics. Try the caprese salad with DOC buffalo milk mozzarella, fresh and roasted tomatoes with bread crumbs and pistachios, or go for pasta with bottarga (dried mullet roe) or Sicilian large fusilli with swordfish, eggplant, and cherry tomatoes. The menu is further divided among meats, seafood (including a nice selection of tartars and other crudi raw fish preparations), and vegetarian-friendly items. TIP Book ahead to reserve a table in the cozy wine cellar beneath the dining room. And afterward head around the corner to their bakery for rightfully famous breads and sweets. | Average cost: €65 | Via dei Giubbonari 21/22, Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/6875287 | www.anticofornoroscioli.com | Closed Sun.

Ghetto

Al Pompiere.
$$$ | ROMAN | The entrance on a narrow side street leads you up a charming staircase and into the main dining room of this neighborhood favorite, all white tablecloths and high arched ceilings. The Roman Jewish dishes of the “Fireman,” such as fried zucchini flowers, battered salt cod, and gnocchi, are all consistently good and served without fanfare on white dishes with a simple border. There are also some nice, historic touches like a beef-and-citron stew that comes from an ancient Roman recipe of Apicius. And if you come across the traditional Roman porchetta (roasted suckling pig) special, make sure to order it before it runs out—it is truly divine. | Average cost: €55 | Via Santa Maria dei Calderari 38, Ghetto | 00186 | 06/6868377 | Closed Sun. and Aug. and 1 wk in Jan.

Piperno.
$$$ | ROMAN | The place to go for Rome’s extraordinary carciofi alla giudia (fried whole artichokes), Piperno has been in business for more than a century. The location, up a tiny hill in a piazza tucked away behind the palazzi of the Jewish Ghetto, lends the restaurant a rarefied air. It’s a popular location for Sunday brunch. Try the exquisite prosciutto and mozzarella di bufala plate, the fiori di zucca ripieni e fritti (fried stuffed zucchini flowers), and filetti di baccalà (fillet of cod) to start. The display of fresh local fish is enticing enough to lure diners to try offerings from sea instead of land. Service is in the old school style of dignified formality. | Average cost: €55 | Monte dei Cenci 9, Ghetto | 00186 | 06/68806629 | www.ristorantepiperno.it | Closed Mon. and Aug. No dinner Sun.

Fodor’s Choice | Vecchia Roma.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Though the frescoed dining rooms are lovely, the choice place to dine is outside, under the big white umbrellas, with the baroque Piazza Campitelli unrolling before your eyes. After several decades, this is still considered one of the most solid spots on the Roman culinary scene, just the place to experience an intro to Roman cooking, upper-middle-class style. For appetizers, the seafood selection, which may include an assortment of fresh anchovies in vinegary goodness, seafood salad, or baby shrimp, is always fresh and seasonal. Chef Raffaella generally doles out large portions, so select one of her wonderful pasta dishes or skip straight to the secondi. Though there are meat and veggie dishes on offer, seafood is a house specialty, and simple southern Italian preparations, such as fresh white flaky fish in a potato crust with cherry tomatoes, are excellent no-fail choices. Sample the house-made fruit desserts for a light(ish) finish to the meal, hopefully accompanied by a dramatic sunset over the 17th-century facade of Santa Maria in Campitelli. | Average cost: €65 | Piazza Campitelli 18, Ghetto | 00186 | 06/6864604 | www.ristorantevecchiaroma.com | Reservations essential | Closed Wed.

Spagna

Dal Bolognese.
$$$$ | EMILIAN | The darling of the media, film, and fashion communities, this classic restaurant on Piazza del Popolo is not only an “in-crowd” dinner destination but makes a convenient shopping-spree lunch spot. As the name promises, the cooking adheres to the hearty tradition of Bologna. Start with a plate of sweet San Daniele prosciutto with melon, then move on to the traditional egg pastas of Emilia-Romagna. Second plates include the famous Bolognese bollito misto, a steaming tray of an assortment of boiled meats (some recognizable, some indecipherable) served with its classic accompaniment, a tangy, herby salsa verde (green sauce). During dessert, take in the passing parade of your fellow diners—they love to meet and greet with excessive air kisses. | Average cost: €75 | Piazza del Popolo 1, Spagna | 00187 | 06/3611426 | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and 3 wks in Aug.

Enoteca Palatium.
$$ | ITALIAN | Just down the street from the Piazza di Spagna hub is this quiet gem run by Lazio’s Regional Food Authority as a chic showcase for the best of Lazio’s pantry and wine cellar: from its fine vintages to olive oils, cheese, and meats to a full seasonal menu of Lazio cuisine. Located where famed aesthete and poet Gabriele d’Annunzio once lived, this is not your garden-variety corner wine bar. TIP Stop by during aperitivo hour, from 6:30 pm onward (reservations recommended) to enjoy this burst of local flavor. | Via Frattina 94, Piazza di Spagna | 00186.

‘Gusto.
$$ | ITALIAN | There’s an urban-loft feel to this trendy two-story space, a bit like Pottery Barn exploded in Piazza Agusto Imperatore (the name of the restaurant is a play on this location and the Italian word for taste/flavor). The ground floor contains a buzzing pizzeria-trattoria, while upstairs is the more upscale restaurant. We prefer the casual-but-hopping vibe of the ground-floor wine bar in the back, where a rotating selection of wines by the glass and bottle is served up alongside a vast array of cheeses, salumi, and bread products. Lunchtime features a great value salad bar. And for the kitchen enthusiast, the ‘Gusto “complex” includes a store, selling everything from cookware to cookwear. | Average cost: €45 | Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, Spagna | 00187 | 06/3226273.

Fodor’s Choice | Nino.
$$$ | ITALIAN | A favorite among international journalists and the rich and famous for decades (Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes had their celeb-studded rehearsal dinner here), Nino is Rome’s best loved dressed-up trattoria. The decor is country rustic alla Tuscana, complete with carved-wood wainscoting, dried flowers, old engravings, and a mellow yellow color on the walls that even Botticelli would have adored. Along with its look (and waiters!), Nino sticks to the classics when it comes to its food, which is basically Roman and Tuscan staples. Kick things off with a selection from the fine antipasto spread, or go for the cured meats or warm crostini (toasts) spread with liver pâté. Move on to pappardelle al lepre (a rich hare sauce) or hearty Tuscan ribollita soup, and go for the gold with a piece of juicy grilled beef. One warning: if you’re not Italian, or a regular, or a celebrity, the chance of brusque service multiplies—so insist on good service and you’ll win the waiters’ respect. | Average cost: €55 | Via Borgognona 11, Spagna | 00187 | 06/6786752, 06/6795676 | www.ristorantenino.it | Closed Sun. and Aug.

Monti, Esquilino, and San Lorenzo

Monti

F.I.S.H.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | The name stands for Fine International Seafood House, which sums up the kitchen’s approach. This is fresh, fresh fish cooked by capable and creative hands—from Italian fish-based pastas to a Thai mollusk soup with lemongrass and coconut milk that awakens the senses. The menu is divided into sections: appetizers, tapas, Oriental, and Mediterranean. Seating is divided into the front aqua lounge, the middle sushi bar, and the back dining room, but it is limited, so book ahead. | Average cost: €60 | Via dei Serpenti 16, Monti | 00184 | 06/47824962 | www.f-i-s-h.it | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch.

Esquilino

Fodor’s Choice | Agata e Romeo.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | For the perfect marriage of fine dining, creative cuisine, and rustic Roman tradition, the husband-and-wife team of Agata Parisella and Romeo Caraccio is the top. Romeo presides over the dining room and delights in the selection of wine-food pairings. And Chef Agata was perhaps the first in the capital city to put a gourmet spin on Roman ingredients and preparations, elevating dishes of the common folk to new levels, wherein familiar staples like cacio e pepe are transformed with the addition of even richer Sicilian aged cheese and saffron. The “baccala’ 5 ways” showcases salt cod of the highest quality. From antipasti (try the seafood crudo tasting: it’s so artfully presented, it’s actually served on a glass plate resembling a painter’s palette) to desserts, many dishes are the best versions of classics you can get. The prices here are steep, but for those who appreciate extremely high-quality ingredients, an incredible wine cellar, and warm service, dining here is a real treat. | Average cost: €100 | Via Carlo Alberto 45, Termini | 00185 | 06/4466115 | www.agataeromeo.it | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, 2 wks in July, and 2 wks in Aug.

Fodor’s Choice | Trattoria Monti.
$$ | ITALIAN | Not far from Santa Maria Maggiore, Monti is one of the most dependable, moderately priced trattorias in the city, featuring the cuisine of the Marches, an area to the northeast of Rome. There are surprisingly few places specializing in this humble fare considering there are more people hailing from Le Marche in Rome than currently living in the whole region of Le Marche. The fare served up by the Camerucci family is hearty and simple, represented by various roasted meats and game, and a selection of generally vegetarian timbales and soufflés that changes seasonally. The region’s rabbit dishes are much loved, and here the timballo di coniglio con patate (rabbit casserole with potatoes) is no exception. | Average cost: €40 | Via di San Vito 13a, Monti | 00189 | 06/4466573 | Reservations essential | Closed Aug., 2 wks at Easter, and 10 days at Christmas.

Repubblica

Trimani Il Winebar.
$ | WINE BAR | Trimani operates nonstop from 11 am to 12:30 am and serves hot food at lunch and dinner. Decor is minimalist, and the second floor provides a subdued, candlelit space to sip wine. There’s always a choice of a soup and pasta plates, as well as second courses and torte salate (savory tarts). Around the corner is a wineshop, one of the oldest in Rome, of the same name. Call about wine tastings and classes (in Italian). | Average cost: €30 | Via Cernaia 37/b, Repubblica | 00185 | 06/4469630 | Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug.

Vatican, Borgo, Prati, and Northwest Rome

Borgo

Fodor’s Choice | La Veranda dell’Hotel Columbus.
$$$ | ROMAN | Deciding where to sit at La Veranda is not easy, since both the shady courtyard, torch-lit at night, and the frescoed dining room are among Rome’s most spectacular settings. While La Veranda has classic Roman cuisine on tap, the kitchen offers nice, refreshing twists on the familiar with an innovative use of flavor combinations. Try the unusual duck leg confit starter, stuffed with raisins and pinenuts with an onion compote and plum sorbet. Or go for the grilled tuna bites with anchovy-caper dumplings and an eggplant torta. Even the pastas are unexpected: saffron fettucine with cuttlefish and zucchini flowers is subtle and elegant—much like the surroundings. Call ahead, especially on Saturday, because the hotel often hosts weddings, which close the restaurant, and you don’t want to miss passing a few hours of your Roman Holiday in these environs. | Average cost: €65 | Borgo Santo Spirito 73, Borgo | 00193 | 06/6872973 | wwww.hotelcolumbus.net | Reservations essential.

Fodor’s Choice | Taverna Angelica.
$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | The area surrounding St. Peter’s Basilica isn’t known for culinary excellence, but Taverna Angelica is an exception. Its tiny size allows the chef to concentrate on each individual dish, and the menu is creative without being pretentious. Dishes such as warm octopus salad on a bed of mashed potatoes with a basil-parsley pesto drizzle are more about taste than presentation. The lentil soup with pigeon breast brought hunter’s cuisine to a new level, and spaghetti with crunchy panceta and leeks is what the Brits call “more-ish” (meaning you want more of it). Fresh sliced tuna in a pistachio crust with orange sauce is light and delicious. It may be difficult to find, on a section of the street that’s set back and almost subterranean, but Taverna Angelica is worth seeking out. | Average cost: €55 | Piazza A. Capponi 6, Borgo | 00193 | 06/6874514 | www.tavernaangelica.it | Reservations essential.

Prati

Dal Toscano.
$$$ | TUSCAN | An open wood-fired grill and classic dishes such as ribollita (a thick bread and vegetable soup) and pici (fresh, thick pasta with wild hare sauce) are the draw at this great family-run Tuscan trattoria near the Vatican. The cuts of beef visible at the entrance tell you right away that the house special is the prized bistecca alla fiorentina—a thick grilled steak left rare in the middle and seared on the outside, with its rub of gutsy Tuscan olive oil and sea salt forming a delicious crust to keep in the natural juices of the beef. Seating outside on the sidewalk in warm weather is a nice touch. | Average cost: €55 | Via Germanico 58/60, Prati | 00192 | 06/39725717 | www.ristorantedaltoscano.it | Closed Mon., 3 wks in Aug., and 1 wk in Jan.

Northwest Rome

Fodor’s Choice | La Pergola.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | La Pergola’s rooftop location offers a commanding view of the city, and as you’re seated in your plush chair, you know you’re in for a three–Michelin star experience, and the only one in Rome. First, your waiter will present you with menus: food, wine, and water (you read correctly). Then you must choose between the German Wunder-chef Heinz Beck’s alta cucina specialties, though most everything will prove to be the best version of the dish you’ve ever tasted. Lobster is oh-so-lightly poached, fish is cooked perfectly, and melt-in-your-mouth lamb in a veggie-accented jus is deceptively simple but earthy and perfect. Each course comes with a flourish of sauces or extra touches that makes it an event in its own right, while the cheese cart is well-explained by knowledgeable servers. The dessert course is extravagant, including tiny petits fours and treats tucked away in small drawers that make up the serving “cabinet.” The wine list is as thrilling as one might expect with the financial backing of the Waldorf-Astoria and their investment in one of the top wine cellars in Italy. | Average cost: €150 | Cavalieri Waldorf-Astoria, Via Cadlolo 101, Monte Mario, Northwest Rome | 00136 | 06/3509221 | www.romecavalieri.com/lapergola.php | Reservations essential. Jacket and tie | Closed Sun. and Mon., and 2 wks in Dec. No lunch.

Trastevere

Glass Hostaria.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | After 14 years in Austin, Texas, Glass chef Cristina Bowerman returned to Rome to reconnect with her Italian roots. Her cooking is as innovative as the building she works in—which has received numerous recognitions for its architecture and design since opening in 2004—but Bowerman still abides by some cardinal Italian kitchen rules, such as the use of fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. With an impassioned sense for detail, taste, and presentation, she serves a delicious pumpkin gnocchi with fontina fondue, black truffle, and toasted almonds. Another favorite dish is the scallops with pistachio cream and seasonal mushrooms. And for dessert: a white truffle crème brûlée. Need help pairing your wine? Glass offers more than 600 labels for the interested oenophiles. | Average cost: €85 | Vicolo del Cinque 58, Trastevere | 00153 | 06/58335903 | www.glass-hostaria.com | Closed Mon. No lunch.

Panattoni.
$ | PIZZA | Nicknamed “the mortuary” for its marble-slab tables, Panattoni is actually about as lively as you can get. Packed every night, it serves crisp pizzas that come out of the wood-burning ovens at top speed. The fried starters here, like a nice baccalà, are light and tasty. Panattoni stays open well past midnight, convenient for a late meal after the theater or a movie nearby. | Average cost: €20 | Viale Trastevere 53–57, Trastevere | 00153 | 06/5800919 | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | Closed Wed. and 3 wks in mid-Aug. No lunch.

Romolo.
$$ | ROMAN | Nowhere else do the lingering rays of the setting Roman sun seem more inviting than within the famed tavern garden of this charming Trastervere haunt—set right by the arch of Porta Settimiana, this was once reputedly the onetime home of Raphael’s lady love, La Fornarina. And though belly-warming winter meals can be enjoyed in the ancient palazzo, it’s the outdoor garden seating that makes this a truly coveted dining spot in the summer months. Who can resist classic spaghetti alla carbonara or pasta all’amatriciana in these surroundings? House specialties include the mozzarella alla fornarina (deep-fried mozzarella with ham and anchovies) and anything with the chef’s legendary artichoke sauce. Service is equally warm and the wine list as local as the staff. | Average cost: €50 | Via di Porta Settimiana 8, Trastevere | 00153 | 06/5818284 | Reservations essential | Closed Mon.

Testaccio

Checchino dal 1887.
$$$$ | ROMAN | Literally carved out of a hill of ancient shards of amphorae, Checchino remains an example of a classic, family-run Roman restaurant, with one of the best wine cellars in the region. Though the slaughterhouses of Testaccio are long gone, an echo of their past existence lives on in the restaurant’s soul food—mostly offal and other less appealing cuts like trippa (tripe), pajata (intestine with the mother’s milk still inside), and coratella (sweetbreads and heart of beef) are all still on the menu for die-hard Roman purists. For the less adventuresome, house specialties include braised milk-fed lamb with seasonal vegetables. Head here for a taste of old Rome, but note that Checchino is really beginning to show its age. | Average cost: €70 | Via di Monte Testaccio 30 | 00153 | 06/5746318 | www.checchino-dal-1887.com | Closed Sun., Mon., Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas.

Perilli.
$$ | ITALIAN | In this restaurant dating from 1911, the old Testaccio remains, and it has the decor to prove it. A seasonal antipasto table starts things off, offering Roman specialties like stewed Roman artichokes and puntarelle (curled chicory stems in a garlicky vinaigrette with lots of lemon and anchovy). The waiters wear crooked bow ties and are just a little bit too hurried—until, that is, you order classics like pasta all’amatriciana and carbonara, which they relish tossing in a big bowl tableside. This is also the place to try rigatoni con pajata (with calves’ intestines)—if you’re into that sort of thing. Secondi plates are for carnivores only, and the house wine is a golden enamel-remover from the Castelli Romani. | Average cost: €40 | Via Marmorata 39, Testaccio | 00153 | 06/5742415 | Closed Wed.

Remo.
$ | PIZZA | Expect a wait at this perennial favorite in Testaccio frequented by students and locals. You won’t find tablecloths or other nonessentials, just classic Roman pizza and boisterous conversation. | Average cost: €18 | Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, Testaccio | 06/5746270 | No credit cards | Closed Sun., Aug., and Christmas wk. No lunch.

Cafés

Café-sitting is a popular leisure-time activity in Rome, practiced by all and involving nothing more strenuous than gesturing to catch the waiter’s eye. Part of the pleasure is resting your tired feet; you won’t be rushed, even when the cafés are most crowded, just before lunch and dinner. (Be aware, though, that you pay for your seat—prices are higher at tables than at the counter.) Nearly every corner in Rome holds a faster-paced coffee bar, where locals stop for a quick caffeine hit at the counter. You can get coffee drinks, fruit juices, pastries, sandwiches, liquor, and beer there, too.

Caffè della Pace.
$ | CAFÉ | With its sidewalk tables taking in Santa Maria della Pace’s adorable piazza, Caffè della Pace has long been the haunt of Rome’s beau monde. Set on a quiet street near Piazza Navona, it also has two rooms filled with old-world personality and paparazzi-worthy patrons. The neighborhood is currently hipper than ever, creating clogged vicoli, so snagging a table here is now an especially prized commodity. | Average cost: €15 | Via della Pace 3, Navona | 00186 | 06/6861216 | www.caffedellapace.it.

Caffè Sant’Eustachio.
$ | CAFÉ | Traditionally frequented by Rome’s literati, this has what is generally considered Rome’s best cup of coffee. Servers are hidden behind a huge espresso machine, vigorously mixing the sugar and coffee to protect their “secret method” for the perfectly prepared cup. (If you want your caffè without sugar here, ask for it amaro). | Average cost: €2 | Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82, Pantheon | 00186 | 06/68802048.

Tazza d’Oro.
$ | CAFÉ | Many admirers contend tht this is the city’s best cup of coffee. The hot chocolate in winter, all thick and gooey goodness, is a treat. And in warm weather the coffee granita is the perfect cooling alternative to a regular espresso. | Average cost: €4 | Via degli Orfani, Pantheon | 00186 | 06/6789792 | www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com.

Gelato

Along with the listings here, you can find a number of gelaterias in Via di Tor Millina, a street off the west side of Piazza Navona.

Caffè Ciampini.
Just off the Corso in the jewel of a piazza, San Lorenzo in Lucina, sits this turn-of-the-century tearoom-gelateria-caffè. Stand at the elegant bar for a quick espresso, or pay a bit more to sit outdoors under a big umbrella, lingering over an aperitivo and a plateful of yummy hors d’oeuvres that come with it. | Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 29, Corso | 00186 | 06/6876606.

Gelateria dei Gracchi.
Thanks to its all-natural ingredients and luscious flavors (the pistacchio in particular gets rave reviews), Gelateria dei Gracchi serves up the best gelato in the Vatican area—and is a serious contender for all of Rome. A favorite with locals, the no-frills shop often bustles. Don’t worry: The line moves quickly, and the gelato is more than worth the queue (or the 10-minute walk from St. Peter’s Basilica or Castel Sant’Angelo). | Via dei Gracchi 272, Vatican | 00192 | 06/3216668 | www.gelateriadeigracchi.com | Station: Lepanto.

Giolitti.
For years Giolitti was considered the best gelateria in Rome, and it’s still worth a stop if you’re near the Pantheon. It’s best known for its variety of fresh seasonal fruit flavors, which taste like the essence of the fruits themselves. | Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40, Pantheon | 00186 | 06/6991243.

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