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Pantheon, Navona, and Trevi | Campo de’ Fiori and Ghetto | Veneto and Spagna | Monti, Repubblica, and San Lorenzo | Vatican and Northwest Rome | Trastevere | Aventino
Updated by Nicole Arriaga
Lodging options in Rome are abundant. Over the past decade or so there’s been an upswing in the number of bed-and-breakfasts, stylish boutique hotels, and lodgings with over-the-top opulence. At the same time, there continue to be many modest, budget hotels and pensioni (small family-run accomodations).
If swanky is what you’re after, the best place to look is in the Spanish Steps and Via Veneto areas. On the flip side, many of the city’s lower-cost accommodations are scattered near the Stazione Termini. But for the most authentic Roman experience, stay in or near the centro storico (the historic center), where you’ll be able to cover most of the main attractions on foot.
Exact prices listed are for a standard double room in high season.
Pantheon, Navona, and Trevi
Pantheon
Fodor’s Choice |
Albergo Santa Chiara.
$$$ | HOTEL | If you’re looking for a good location (right behind the Pantheon) and top-notch service at great prices—not to mention comfortable beds and a quiet stay—look no further than this historic hotel, run by the same family for some 200 years. Guests choose it not only for its prime spot behind the Pantheon and across the way from Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, but also because of its warm and welcoming staff. The decor is nothing to
write home about: the lobby is an all-white affair with furniture you might find in your grandmother’s house, and some rooms are a bit bland. For families or those looking for a bit more space, Santa Chiara also rents out three apartments, for two to five people, with full kitchens. Pros: great location in the historical center behind the Pantheon; the staff is both polite and helpful; there is a lovely terrace/sitting area in front of the hotel
that overlooks the piazza. Cons: the rooms are small and could use some restyling. Some rooms don’t have a window. TripAdvisor: “great hotel,” “best location in Rome,” “new rooms and old rooms.” | Rooms from: €250 | Via Santa Chiara 21,
Pantheon | 00186 | 06/6872979 |
info@albergosantachiara.com | www.albergosantachiara.com | 96 rooms, 3 suites, 3 apartments | Breakfast.
Pantheon.
$$$ | HOTEL | A superb little hotel right next to the monument itself, the Pantheon has a typically Roman lobby—warm and cozy yet opulent—and rooms with antique walnut furnishings, fresh flowers, paisley bedspreads, and wood-beam ceilings. Replete with stained glass, sumptuous wood paneling, and a Renaissance beamed ceiling, the centerpiece of the welcoming lobby is a massive and glorious chandelier. Just as welcoming is the staff, which
exemplifies true Italian hospitality. Pros: proximity to the Pantheon; big, clean bathrooms; friendly staff. Cons: rooms are in need of some upgrading; the lighting is low and the rooms can feel a bit stuffy. TripAdvisor: “lovely little hotel,” “prime location,” “just perfect.” | Rooms from: €290 | Via dei Pastini 131,
Pantheon | 00186 | 06/6787746 | www.hotelpantheon.com | 13 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.
Navona
Genio.
$$ | HOTEL | Located just outside one of Rome’s most beautiful piazzas—Piazza Navona—this pleasant hotel has a lovely rooftop terrace where you can sip morning cappuccino and enjoy the view and good-size rooms decorated in warm colors. Modeled along classic Roman lines, the lobby and public areas are cozy. Rooms are sophisticated with long, flowing drapes, wall-to-wall carpeting and, if you’re lucky, parquet wooden floors. You can snag a
really good deal here in January and February, when room rates are incredibly cheap. Pros: you can sip wine on the rooftop and take in the view; rooms are a decent size for a Roman hotel; the bathrooms are elegantly designed. Cons: Genio is on a busy street so there is often traffic noise; walls are paper-thin; both the decor and the carpet have seen better days. TripAdvisor:
“comfortable,” “ideal location,” “satisfied.” | Rooms from: €170 | Via Giuseppe Zanardelli 28,
Navona | 00186 | 06/6832191 | www.hotelgenioroma.it | 60 rooms | Breakfast.
Relais Palazzo Taverna.
$$ | HOTEL | This little hidden gem on a side street behind the lovely Via dei Coronari is a pleasant surprise for travelers who happen to stumble upon it, a good compromise for those looking for boutique-style accommodations on a budget: the stylish guest rooms have kitsch wallpaper print that’s so cute it looks like someone gift-wrapped them, and it’s rare to find lodgings with such cool design at affordable prices like these right around
the corner from Piazza Navona. Pros: centrally located; boutique-style accommodations at budget prices. Cons: breakfast is served in your room; staff is on duty only until midnight. TripAdvisor: “comfortable and chic,” “a real gem,” “perfect location.” | Rooms from: €150 | Via dei Gabrielli 92,
Navona | 00186 | 06/20398064 | www.relaispalazzotaverna.com | 11 rooms.
Trevi
Trevi.
$$$ | HOTEL | Location, location, location: at this delightful place tucked away down one of Old Rome’s quaintest alleys near the Trevi Fountain, the smallish rooms are bright and clean, and you can eat marvelous pasta at the arborlike roof-garden restaurant as you peer at the city below. A few of the larger rooms have antique furniture and wooden ceilings with massive beams. Pros: pass the Trevi Fountain each
day as you come and go; comfortable rooms; roof-garden restaurant. Cons: breakfast room is cramped; this area can be very noisy due to foot traffic around the Trevi Fountain. TripAdvisor: “excellent location, small room,” “amazing,” “too expensive.” | Rooms from: €240 | Vicolo del Babbuccio 20/21,
Trevi | 00187 | 06/6789563 | www.hoteltrevirome.com | 29 rooms | Breakfast.
Campo de’ Fiori and Ghetto
Campo de’ Fiori
Fodor’s Choice |
Casa di Santa Brigida.
$$ | B&B/INN | The friendly sisters of Santa Brigida oversee simple, straightforward, and centrally located accommodations—right next to Campo de’ Fiori—in one of Rome’s loveliest convents, with a rooftop terrace overlooking Palazzo Farnese; sometimes the sisters offer guests tickets to the papal audience. You won’t find iPod charging docks or flat-screen TVs here, and breakfast is only served after the sisters have finished their
prayers. Still, the atmosphere is serene and the rooms are perfect for the price. The Brigidine sisters, who wear a distinctive habit and veil with a caplike headband, are known for their gentle manner. You can also book a meal here. The guesthouse entrance is around the corner from the church at Via Monserrato 54. Pros: no curfew in this historic convent; insider papal tickets; location in the Piazza Farnese. Cons: weak a/c; no TVs in the rooms (though there is a common TV room); mediocre breakfast. TripAdvisor: “amazing location,” “elegant,” “peaceful refuge.” | Rooms from: €160 | Piazza Farnese 96,
Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/68892596 |
piazzafarnese@brigidine.org | www.brigidine.org | 2 rooms | Breakfast.
Hotel Campo de’ Fiori.
$$$ | HOTEL | Each room in this ivy-draped hotel, perhaps one of Rome’s most handsome, is entirely unique in its colors, furnishings, and refined feel, and the views of Roman rooftops from the Campo de’ Fiori’s terrace certainly don’t disappoint. Inside the hotel take in Renaissance-style frescoes, exposed brickwork, and thoughtful touches throughout. If you desire more extensive accommodations, the hotel offers 14 apartments in the area
that can accommodate two to five guests. Pros: modern amenities such as flat-screen LCD TV with satellite, individual air-conditioning, and free Wi-Fi; rooftop terrace; a 4% discount if you pay in cash. Cons: some of the rooms are very small; breakfast works on a voucher system with a nearby caffè; the staff isn’t as hospitable as most Italians. TripAdvisor: “a modern medieval
marvel,” “excellent location and service,” “cute and quaint.” | Rooms from: €300 | Via del Biscione 6,
Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/68806865 | www.hotelcampodefiori.it | 23 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Hotel Ponte Sisto.
$$$ | HOTEL | With one of the prettiest patio-courtyards in Rome (Europe?), this hotel offfers its own blissful definition of Pax Romana: peace, indeed, will be yours, sitting in this enchanting spot, shadowed by gigantic palm trees, set with tables, and adorned with pink and white flowers, all surrounded by the suavely ochre walls of the hotel, gorgeously renovated in 2001 from a palazzo built by the noble
Venetian Palottini family. Just two steps away from Trastevere and Campo de’ Fiori, also features refined guest rooms, some which look over the garden of the historic Palazzo Spada, while others catch a glimpse of the cupola of St. Peter’s Basilica in the distance. Inside, cherrywood accents, recessed lighting, and luminous marble floors give a calming effect. Suites come with Jacuzzis and furnished balconies or terraces, and the hotel also has a bar and restaurant. The
location is indeed superb: Not only are you in the middle of all of the sights, but a wonderful array of Roman trattorias await you just across the Ponte Sisto in Trastevere. Pros: staff is friendly; rooms with views (and some with balconies and terraces); luxury bathrooms; beautiful courtyard garden. Cons: street-side rooms can be a bit noisy; some rooms are on the small side; meals at the restaurant can only be
planned for groups. TripAdvisor: “perfectly situated,” “quiet Rome,” “peaceful.” | Rooms from: €300 | Via dei Pettinari 64,
Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/686310 | www.hotelpontesisto.it | 103 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.
Ghetto
Arenula.
$$ | HOTEL | A hefty bargain by Rome standards, Hotel Arenula has an almost unbeatable location (in the Jewish Ghetto just across the river from Trastevere), an imposingly elegant stone exterior, and simple but comfortable rooms with pale-wood furnishings and double-glazed windows, but alas, no elevator. Standing on an age-worn byway off central Via Arenula, the hotel welcomes you with a luminous and cheerful all-white interior. The graceful
oval staircase of white marble and wrought iron in the lobby is lovely, but guests with rooms on the fourth floor had better be in good shape! Pros: it’s a real bargain; conveniently located in the Ghetto (close to Campo de’ Fiori and Trastevere), and it’s spotless. Cons: totally no-frills accommodations; no elevator; can still be a bit noisy despite the double-glazed windows. TripAdvisor: “comfortable,” “excellent location,” “well managed.” | Rooms from: €130 | Via Santa Maria dei Calderari 47,
off Via Arenula,
Ghetto | 00186 | 06/6879454 | www.hotelarenula.com | 50 rooms | Breakfast.
Veneto and Spagna
Veneto
Fodor’s Choice |
Aleph.
$$$$ | HOTEL | If you’re wondering where the beautiful people are, look no further than the Aleph, the most unfalteringly fashionable of Rome’s design hotels—the just-this-side-of-kitsch theme is Dante’s Divine Comedy, and you can walk the line between heaven and hell through the Angelo bar, the red-red-red Sin restaurant, and Paradise spa—where the guest rooms are happily more subdued, in neutral tones with wood
furniture, made galleryesque by giant black-and-white photos of Rome. As many will guess, this hotel was über-designed by Adam Tihany (who also did the honors at Rome’s Exedra). His relentless, in-your-face decor throws everything into the mix, from Shogun suits to his signature red twigs to shirred silk lamps. Fortunately, he likes to poke fun at himself (clothes hooks shaped like devil’s horns; tiny TVs set in the bathroom floors in front of your toilet), and earnestly cool
staff notwithstanding, the Aleph doesn’t take itself as seriously as might be feared. When old Rome feels, well, old—this is something new. If money is no object, book the presedential suite for your very own Jacuzzi on your private terrace. Pros: access to the spa facilities is included for all hotel guests without any added cost; award-winning design. Cons: rooms are too petite for the price; cocktails are
expensive; Internet is costly, too and Wi-Fi isn’t guaranteed. TripAdvisor: “gorgeous hall,” “very friendly and helpful staff,” “a fantasy getaway.” | Rooms from: €500 | Via San Basilio 15,
Veneto | 00187 | 06/422901 | aleph-roma.boscolohotels.com | 96 rooms, 6 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice |
Daphne Veneto.
$$ | B&B/INN | Inspired by baroque artist Gianlorenzo Bernini’s exquisite Apollo and Daphne sculpture at the Borghese Gallery, the Daphne Inn at Via Veneto is an “urban B&B” run by people who love Rome and will do their best to make sure you love it, too: in addition to an intimate lodging experience, elegantly designed rooms, comfortable beds, and fresh fruit and pastries with your coffee each morning,
the staff will help you map out your destinations, schedule itineraries, plan day trips, book tours, choose restaurants, and organize your transportation—it’s like having your own personal travel planner. A cell phone is even provided for you to use during your stay in Rome (though you have to pay for the calls). Pros: if rooms at Daphne Veneto are booked, inquire about its sister hotel, Daphne Trevi; the opportunity to see Rome “like an
insider”; the beds have Simmons mattresses and fluffy comforters. Cons: no TVs; some bathrooms are shared; Daphne only accepts Visa or MasterCard to hold bookings (though you can actually pay with an AmEx). TripAdvisor: “great for first timers,” “amazing service,” “wonderful stay.” | Rooms from: €180 | Via di San Basilio 55,
Veneto | 00187 | 06/87450087 | www.daphne-rome.com | 7 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Eden.
$$$$ | HOTEL | A recent refurbishment of the Hotel Eden has put it back in the running for one of Rome’s top luxury lodgings: once a favorite haunt of Hemingway, Ingrid Bergman, and Fellini, this superlative hotel combines dashing elegance, exquisitely lush decor, and stunning vistas of Rome with true Italian hospitality. Set atop an oh-my-weary-feet hill near the Villa Borghese (and a bit out of the historic center for serious sightseers),
this hotel was opened in the late 19th century and quickly became famous for its balcony views and Roman splendor. Even the most basic room here is elegantly designed: banquette window seats, rich mahogany furniture, soaring ceilings, Napoléon-Trois sofas, and fine linens allow you to dive deep into the whoooooossh of luxury here. Topping it all off is one of Rome’s most fabled “food-with-a-view” restaurants, La Terrazza dell’Eden, whose perch offers views that are truly
panaromantic (you can enjoy almost the same vistas for the price of a Campari on its rooftop bar: remember to dress up all the same). Pros: gorgeous mirrored roof terrace restaurant; you could be rubbing elbows with the stars; 24-hour room service. Cons: expensive (unless money is no object for you); no Wi-Fi in the rooms; some say the staff can be hit-or-miss. TripAdvisor: “beautiful
atmosphere,” “great views,” “service was fantastic.” | Rooms from: €440 | Via Ludovisi 49,
Veneto | 00187 | 06/478121 | www.lemeridien.com/eden | 121 rooms, 13 suites | No meals.
Spagna
Fodor’s Choice |
Hassler.
$$$$ | HOTEL | When it comes to million-dollar views, this exclusive hotel has the best seats in the house, which is why movie stars like Tom Cruise and Jennifer Lopez, money shakers, and the nouveaux riche are all willing to pay top dollar to stay at this top address of Rome, perched atop the Spanish Steps; they are indeed lucky, for while the Hassler’s exterior is bland, the recently restyled guest rooms are among the world’s most
extravagant and lavishly decorated. The hotel is owned by the Wirth family, a famous dynasty of Swiss hoteliers. You can get more standard rooms at the back of the hotel, which will spare you and your wallet the VIP prices. Of course, even the lowest prices at the Hassler can’t compare with what you could find somewhere else. The recently renovated penthouse boasts the largest terrace in Rome (and a €5,000-a-night price tag). The rooftop restaurant, Imàgo (which guests use
for the breakfast buffet), is world famous for its view, if not for its food; and the Palm Court, which becomes the hotel bar in summer, overflows with flowers. Pros: charming old-world feel; prime location and panoramic views at the top of the Spanish Steps; just “steps” away from some of the best shopping in the world. Cons: VIP prices; many think the staff is too standoffish; the spa facilities are far from
5-star material. TripAdvisor: “a perfect stay in the eternal city,” “old-style elegance,” “spectacular location.” | Rooms from: €650 | Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6,
Spagna | 00187 | 06/69934755, 800/223–6800
Toll-free from the U.S. | www.hotelhasslerroma.com | 82 rooms, 13 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice |
D’Inghilterra.
$$$$ | HOTEL | From monarchs and movie moguls to some of the greatest writers of all time (Mark Twain and Hemingway), the D’Inghilterra—with a marvelous residential feel and a staff that is as warm as the surroundings are velvety—has welcomed Rome’s most discerning tourists since it opened its doors in 1845, and what they really adore about the hotel are first-floor salons, which seem like old sepia-toned photographs come to life. The
hotel’s name pays tribute to the Brits who once colonized the Spanish Steps district back in the Grand Tour era and they would still recognize the entrance, set on a potted-palm cobblestone stretch of posh Via Bocca di Leone, and the jewel of a lobby—tiny, unassuming, like a sentry box against the hustle and bustle outside the front door. In fact, you’re in the heart of the shopping district here, so traffic noises can intrude even the double-pane windows (the best rooms here
overlook a quiet, plant-covered terrace); other favor the Bar, which is James Bond–suave.Upstairs, some guest rooms include wall-to-wall carpeting or wood floors with Chinese tapestry and baroque mirrors. The hotel’s restaurant, Cafè Romano, with soigné 19th-century-style decor, is another favorite, especially among Rome’s ladies who lunch, who stop in for a light snack or aperitivo while shopping. Pros: distinct character and opulence; turndown
service (with chocolates!); a genuinely friendly and attentive staff. Cons: the elevator is both small and slow; bathrooms are surprisingly petite; the location—despite soundproofing—is still noisy. TripAdvisor: “great location,” “opulent Rome,” “gorgeous.” | Rooms from: €400 | Vai Bocca di Leone 14,
Spagna | 00187 | 06/699811 | www.hoteldinghilterraroma.it | 97 rooms, 11 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice |
Hotel de Russie.
$$$$ | HOTEL | A ritzy retreat for government bigwigs and Hollywood high rollers, the de Russie—just steps away from the famed Piazza del Popolo and set in a 19th-century historic hotel that once boasted a clientele that included royalty, Picasso, and Cocteau—got the best money could buy when famed hotelier Sir Rocco Forte gave this dowager a face-lift, replete with that Soho-hip decor (Donghia-style furnishings and a mod minimalism) that
seems to depressingly prevail, in cookie-cutter fashion, in Forte hotels New York to Geneva. almost making up for this is the hotel’s most prized possession: the spectacular multi-terraced garden courtyard which can be seen from many (but not all) guest rooms and its sharp Le Jardin de Russie restaurant. When not lounging outside on their plushy terrace, VIPs can be found at the world-class spa facility or sipping prosecco poolside. Pros: big
potential for celebrity sightings; special activities for children; extensive gardens (including a butterfly reserve); first-rate luxury spa. Cons: hotel is a bit worn around the edges; decor is generic-luxe; breakfast is nothing special; avoid street-side rooms. TripAdvisor: “like a fine wine,” “an oasis of calm,” “gorgeous luxury.” | Rooms from: €750 | Via del
Babuino 9,
Popolo | 00187 | 06/328881 | www.rfhotels.com | 122 rooms, 33 suites | Breakfast.
Hotel Suisse.
$$ | HOTEL | In the same family for more than three generations, this lovely little hotel on the picturesque and fabled Via Gregoriana, minutes away from the Spanish Steps and its famous boutiques (and just steps away from the former residences of Hans Christian Andersen and the painter Ingres), offers rooms that feel more like a friend’s elegantly furnished apartment. Set in a somewhat unprepossessing building, the hotel itself is sweet and
serviceable, with rooms on an array of floors: if possible, opt for the ones facing the back—blissfully quiet even though you’re in the thick of things. Pros: good value for reasonable price; the rooms are obviously cared for; great location. Cons: breakfast is taken in your room; you will need to be buzzed in during certain hours; there are a few stairs to climb before you reach the elevator. TripAdvisor: “cozy,” “great location,” “wonderful staff.” | Rooms from: €165 | Via Gregoriana 54,
Veneto | 00187 | 06/6783649 | www.hotelsuisserome.com | 12 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Il Palazzetto.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | If you have ever fantasized about staying in one of those houses that perch over the Spanish Steps, make that dream your very special reality by checking into one of the four guest rooms here: you’ll wind up reclining the day away on Il Palazzetto’s gorgeous terrace to watch the never-ending street theater that is the Scalinata. Even the legendary Hassler, set across Piazza Trinità dei Monti atop the steps, can’t make
this claim. Beyond the tiny reception, enormous red salons welcome you to the piano nobile of this Renaissance-era house; in reality they are the red-on-red bar and restaurant of the International Wine Academy. Things get much more tranquil in the four beige-on-beige guest rooms (note: only three look out over the Steps); none come with room service but all have something better, the full use of the facilities of its sister hotel, the Hassler.
Pros: that address, that view; gourmet restaurant. Cons: restaurant here is often rented out for crowded special events; bedrooms do not access the communal terraces; the McDonalds near the hotel entrance. TripAdvisor: “excellent staff,” “beautiful,” “fantastic room in a fantastic setting.” | Rooms from: €350 | Vicolo del Bottino
8,
Spagna | 00187 | 06/6993-41000 | www.ilpalazzettoroma.com/ | 4 | No meals.
Panda.
$ | HOTEL | You couldn’t possibly find a better deal in Rome than here at the Panda—especially given its key location just behind the Spanish Steps on one of the poshest shopping streets in the centro, Via della Croce—where the smallish guest rooms are outfitted in terra-cotta, wrought iron, and very simple furnishings; spotlessly clean; and quiet, thanks to double-glaze windows. Pay even less by sharing a bath—in low season, you may have it
to yourself anyway. Pros: discount if you pay cash; free Wi-Fi; located on a quiet street, but still close to the Spanish Steps. Cons: Wi-Fi signal can be a bit weak; not all rooms have private bathrooms; no elevator; no TVs in the rooms. TripAdvisor: “nice and clean,” “professional little hotel,” “unbeatable location.” | Rooms from: €100 | Via della Croce 35,
Spagna | 00187 | 06/6780179 | www.hotelpanda.it | 20 rooms, 14 with bath | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Scalinata di Spagna.
$$$ | B&B/INN | This tiny hotel’s prime location at the top of the Spanish Steps, inconspicuous little entrance, and quiet, sunny charm all add to the character that guests fall in love with over and over again—which explains why it’s often booked up for months, even years at a time—but if you’re lucky enough to nab a spot here, you’ll enjoy stylish rooms accentuated with floral fabrics and Empire-style sofas and the hotel’s extravagant
rooftop garden: gaze over Rome as you nibble a cornetto and sip cappuccino. Amenities, such as breakfast service until noon and in-room Internet access, are a nice touch. Pros: friendly and helpful concierge; fresh fruit in the rooms; free Wi-Fi throughout. Cons: it’s a hike up the hill to the hotel; no porter and no elevator; service can be hit-or-miss. TripAdvisor: “excellent
staff,” “spectacular stay,” “the best location.” | Rooms from: €220 | Piazza Trinità dei Monti 17,
Spagna | 00187 | 06/6793006 | www.hotelscalinata.com | 16 rooms | Breakfast.
Monti, Repubblica, and San Lorenzo
Monti
Italia.
$$ | HOTEL | Just a block from bustling Via Nazionale, this hotel feels like a classic pensione: low budget with a lot of heart, with inexpensive rooms with big windows, desks, parquet floors, and baths with faux-marble tiles, and a generous buffet breakfast. The hotel is a family affair and a friendly one. The bedspreads and drapes are carefully color-coordinated in green, red, and white, in a tasteful nod to the Italian flag. Thoughtful
touches like an ice machine and free wireless Internet access make a stay here all the more tempting. Mid-summer rates can be bargained down. Pros: free Wi-Fi and Internet access throughout the hotel; Internet point for guests without computers to use; great price; individual attention and personal care. Cons: can be a bit noisy; a/c is an extra €10. TripAdvisor: “home sweet home,”
“helpful staff,” “great long weekend hotel.” | Rooms from: €135 | Via Venezia 18,
Monti | 00184 | 06/4828355 | www.hotelitaliaroma.com | 31 rooms, 1 apartment | Breakfast.
Montreal.
$ | B&B/INN | A good choice for budget travelers, this modest hotel on a central avenue across the square from Santa Maria Maggiore, three blocks from Stazione Termini, occupies a totally renovated older building and offers bright, fresh-looking, though small, rooms. The owner-managers are pleasant and helpful, and the neighborhood isn’t far from the characteristic quarter Monti, famous for its funky wine bars, cobblestone streets, and
surplus of Roman trattorias and good ethnic eats. Pros: informative and helpful staff provides maps and good recommendations; bathrooms are spacious; hotel has a cozy feel. Cons: location can be noisy at night; need to take a bus or a metro to get to most of the sights. TripAdvisor: “they remember you,” “cozy and quaint,” “very friendly welcome and staff.” | Rooms from: €100 | Via Carlo Alberto 4,
Monti | 00185 | 06/4457797 | www.hotelmontrealroma.com | 27 rooms | Breakfast.
Repubblica
Fodor’s Choice |
The Beehive.
$ | B&B/INN | Living the American dream in Italy is exactly what one Los Angeles couple did in 1999, when they opened the Beehive, a hip, alternative budget hotel (bathrooms are shared) near Termini train station where you can go organic in the on-site caffè, or lounge the afternoon away in the lovely garden or reading lounge. Most people don’t know what quite what to make of it except that it’s cool, a cross between a hostel and a
holistic center. Additional amenities include Wi-Fi and their very own gallery; what you won’t find are televisions and air-conditioning. If you would prefer your own self-catering apartment with a kitchen and private bathroom for your group or family, or if you’d just like an individual room in an apartment, the Beehive also rents three apartments in the neighborhood. Pros: massage, and other therapies offered on-site; Sunday brunches at their
caffè featuring organic pancakes. Cons: no TV, a/c, or private bathroom; breakfast is not included in the room rate. TripAdvisor: “a hidden gem,” “cozy and fun,” “friendly and comfortable.” | Rooms from: €85 | Via Marghera 8,
San Lorenzo | 00185 | 06/44704553 | www.the-beehive.com | 8 rooms, 1 dormitory, 3 apartments | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice |
Exedra.
$$$$ | HOTEL | If Rome’s semi-stodgy hotel scene has an It-Girl, it’s the hard-to-top Exedra, where high rollers love to host splashy parties by the rooftop swimming pool and magazines love to rave about them; rooms are predictably luscious in an uptown way, with silky linens and handsome nouveau-colonial bedsteads, and many face the spectacular fountain in the piazza outside. Unlike its naughty younger brother the Aleph, the Exedra is a
model of neoclassical respectability, all gilt-framed mirrors and fresh flowers, but there’s a glint of cutting edge in the paparazzi-inspired (and inspiring) Tazio brasserie. Why stay here, rather than at the umpteen other expensively elegant hotels in central Rome? You can think about it while you lounge by that rooftop pool. Pros: spacious and attractive rooms; great spa and pool; terrace with cocktail service; close to Termini station. Cons: food and beverages are expensive; beyond the immediate vicinity, parts of the neighborhood can be sketchy. TripAdvisor: “very glamorous,” “the best place to stay,” “spacious.” | Rooms from: €360 | Piazza della Repubblica 47,
Repubblica | 00185 | 06/489381 | www.boscolohotels.com | 240 rooms, 18 suites | Breakfast.
San Lorenzo
Des Artistes.
$ | HOTEL | The three Riccioni brothers have put their hearts and souls into running the Des Artistes, making it the crème de la crème of this neighborhood near Termini, and you’ll want to book well ahead to reserve your spot in this delightful hotel, decked out with 20th-century paintings, with mahogany furniture and handsome fabrics in the guest rooms. The bathrooms are unusually elegant for a 3-star hotel and even include towel warmers,
handy for cold winter nights. Des Artistes hasn’t forgotten its roots, though: there’s also a “hostel” floor with 11 simpler rooms for travelers on a budget. As for location, this is somewhat on the fringe, being several blocks (in the wrong direction) from Stazione Termini, near the Castro Pretorio metro stop. Pros: good value; decent-size rooms; relaxing roof garden. Cons: breakfast room is small; reception is on
the fifth floor; you have to pay for Wi-Fi. TripAdvisor: “excellent accommodation,” “very friendly,” “exceptional staff.” | Rooms from: €130 | Via Villafranca 20,
Castro Pretorio | 00185 | 06/4454365 | www.hoteldesartistes.com | 40 rooms, 27 with bath | Breakfast.
Villa delle Rose.
$ | HOTEL | When the Eternal City becomes too chaotic for you, head to this relaxing retreat in a charming 19th-century palazzo minutes away from Termini Station, with its beautiful rose garden where guests typically have breakfast or sip afternoon tea. Guest-room furnishings are a bit old-fashioned, but the rooms are comfortable and functional. Pros: delightful garden with blooming roses and jasmine; free
parking; free Wi-Fi. Cons: some of the rooms are small (ask for a larger one); the elevator is also small. TripAdvisor: “a quiet traditional hotel,” “charming room,” “comfortable and well situated.” | Rooms from: €115 | Via Vicenza 5,
Repubblica | 00185 | 06/4451795 | www.villadellerose.it | 37 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Yes Hotel.
$ | HOTEL | This chic hotel may fool you into thinking these digs are expensive, but the contemporary coolness of Yes Hotel—crisp neutral colors and modern fabrics in the guest rooms and high-end amenities such as flat-screen TVs, top-of-the-line toiletries, and electronic safes—comes at a budget price. It’s located around the corner from Termini train station, which makes it a good base for sightseeing. Wireless Internet access is available
in the rooms and throughout the hotel for an extra free. Pros: flat-screen TVs with satellite TV; doesn’t have the feel of a budget hotel; discount if you pay cash; great value. Cons: rooms are small; no individual climate control or refrigerators in the rooms. TripAdvisor: “lovely,” “very pleasant stay,” “super friendly staff.” | Rooms from: €140 | Via Magenta 15,
Termini | 00185 | 06/44363836 | www.yeshotelrome.com | 29 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.
Vatican and Northwest Rome
Vatican
Fodor’s Choice |
Residenza Paolo VI.
$$ | HOTEL | Set in a former monastery that is still an extraterritorial part of the Vatican and magnificently abutting Bernini’s colonnade of St. Peter’s.Peter’s Square, the Paolo VI (pronounced Paolo Sesto, Italian for Pope Paul VI) is unbeatably close to St. Peter’s, with guest rooms that are luxurious and comfortable and amazingly quiet. Replete with a stone terrace that directly overlooks Bernini’s 17th-century porticoes, this hotel
enjoys one of the most spectacular perches in Rome. For truly superior rooms, ask for the newly inaugurated rooms on the piano nobile (noble floor). Within breathing distance of the residence of Benedict XVI, it’s not surprising that the management here is devoutly Catholic, as you may gather from the framed portraits of the pope on the front desk and the daily prayer slipped under your door in lieu of a newspaper. But
heaven can wait once you settle into your breakfast buffet on the wonderful roof terrace and drink in the view of Michelangelo’s great dome. Pros: unparalleled views of St. Peter’s from the roof terrace; a sound sleep is assured in these quiet rooms; the breakfast spread is huge. Cons: the small rooms are really small; bathrooms are small; the atmosphere at night is a little too quiet. TripAdvisor: “quaint,” “fantastic staff,” “serenity and charm.” | Rooms from: €190 | Via Paolo VI 29,
Vatican | 00193 | 06/68134108 | www.residenzapaolovi.com | 35 rooms | Breakfast.
Northwest Rome
Rome Cavalieri.
$$$$ | RESORT | Though the Cavalieri is outside the city center, distance has its advantages, one of them being the magnificent view over Rome (ask for a room facing the city), and another—that elusive element of more central Roman hotels—space: occupying a vast area atop modern Rome’s highest hill, this oasis of good taste often feels more like a ritzy resort than a city hotel, with a terraced garden that spreads out from an Olympic-size
pool, a smart poolside restaurant and caffè, and legions of white-clothed cushioned lounge chairs scattered throughout the greenery. Inside, spacious rooms, often with large balconies, are done up in striped damask, puffy armchairs, and Waldorf-Astoria amenities, such as a “pillow menu.” Don’t let the lush amenities distract you from the real reason you’re here: to see the sights of Rome. A complimentary shuttle awaits. The strawberry on top: rooftop La Pergola restaurant,
with three Michelin stars, is renowned as one of Rome’s very best. Pros: beautiful bird’s-eye view of Rome; shuttle to the city center; three-Michelin-star dining. Cons: you definitely pay for the luxury of staying here—everything is expensive; outside the city center; not all rooms have the view. TripAdvisor: “absolute perfection in every way,” “beyond beautiful,” “truly special.” |
Rooms from: €500 | Via Cadlolo 101,
Monte Mario | 00136 | 06/35091 | www.romecavalieri.com | 357 rooms, 17 suites | Breakfast.
Trastevere
Fodor’s Choice |
Casa di Santa Francesca Romana.
$$ | HOTEL | In the heart of Trastevere but tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the medieval quarter, this simply delightful hotel in a former monastery is centered on an impressive ochre-colored courtyard, lined with potted trees and tables, and though there isn’t much on the amenities front aside from a TV-room and a reading room and the guest rooms are standard-issue, for the money this is a fabulous location and spectacular buy.
The monastery was built to honor the 15th-century St. Francesca Romana, and guest rooms are appropriately simple, with have cool white walls, tile floors, and simple desks that won’t win any design-awards. Another perk is the wonderful array of mom-and-pop trattorias dotted around the area. Pros: the price can’t be beat; excellent restaurants nearby; breakfast is delicious; quiet and great location; away from rowdy side of Trastevere. Cons: thin walls; decor is a bit bland. TripAdvisor: “quiet,” “cozy side of the city,” “excellent breakfast.” | Rooms from: €130 | Via dei Vasceillari 61,
Trastevere | 00153 | 06/5812125 | www.sfromana.it | 36 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Hotel Santa Maria.
$$$ | HOTEL | A Trastevere treasure with a pedigree going back four centuries, this ivy-covered, mansard-roofed, rosy-brick-red, erstwhile Renaissance-era convent—just steps away from the glorious Santa Maria in Trastevere church and a few blocks from the Tiber—has sweet and simple guest rooms: a mix of brick walls, “cotto” tile floors, modern oak furniture, and stylishly floral bedspreads and curtains. Surrounded by towering tenements the
complex is centered on a monastic porticoed courtyard, lined with orange trees—a lovely place for breakfast. Pros: a quaint and pretty oasis in a central location; relaxing courtyard; stocked wine bar. Cons: it might be tricky to find; some of the showers drain slowly; it’s not always easy finding a cab in Trastevere. TripAdvisor: “excellent customer service,” “quiet and comfortable,”
“oasis in Rome.” | Rooms from: €220 | Vicolo del Piede 2,
Trastevere | 00153 | 06/5894626 | www.htlsantamaria.com | 18 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.
Hotel Trastevere.
$ | HOTEL | This tiny hotel captures the village-like charm of the Trastevere district: the entrance hall features a mural of the famous Piazza di Santa Maria, a few blocks away, and hand-painted Art Nouveau wall designs add a touch of graciousness throughout, while open medieval brickwork and a few antiques scattered about complete the mood. Most rooms face Piazza San Cosimato, where there’s an outdoor food market every morning except
Sunday. For those looking for a little extra space, the Hotel Trastevere also has a few apartments for rent nearby. Pros: cheap with a good location; convenient to transportation; free Wi-Fi; friendly staff. Cons: no frills; few amenities. TripAdvisor: “perfect local experience,” “a wonderful area of Rome,” “great staff.” | Rooms from: €105 | Via Luciano Manara 24–25,
Trastevere | 00153 | 06/5814713 | www.hoteltrastevere.net | 20 rooms, 3 apartments | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Relais Le Clarisse.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Set within the former cloister grounds of the Santa Chiara order, with gardens so beautiful you’ll think you were in Sorrento or Capri, Le Clarisse makes travelers feel more like personal guests at a friend’s villa rather than at a hotel, thanks to the comfortable size of the accommodations and the personal touches and service extended by the staff. In one of Rome’s most popular neighborhoods, this charming little oasis
features five simple, but classically styled accommodations (two doubles and three suites) with terra-cotta-tiled floors, wrought-iron bed frames, and oak furnishings, each of which opens onto a bright courtyard surrounded by a Mediterranean garden of grapevines and olive and lemon trees and has the most modern technologies: individual climate control, flat-screen TVs, air-conditioning, high-speed Internet and Wi-Fi, and Jacuzzi showers and tubs. Le Clarisse is set on the
former cloister grounds of the Santa Chiara order, and the gardens are so beautiful, you’ll think you were in Sorrento or Capri. Travelers feel more like personal guests at a friend’s villa rather than at a hotel, thanks to the comfortable size of the accommodations and the personal touches and service extended by the staff. Across the street is the Alcazar movie theater, which shows original language films (as opposed to versions that have been dubbed into Italian) on Monday
and Tuesday nights. Pros: spacious rooms with comfy beds; high-tech showers/tubs with good water pressure; staff is multilingual, friendly, and at your service. Cons: this part of Trastevere can be noisy at night; the rooms here fill up quickly; they only serve American coffee. TripAdvisor: “fabulous staff,” “a gem in a true Italian neighborhood,” “cozy.” | Rooms
from: €220 | Via Cardinale Merry del Val 20,
Trastevere | 00153 | 06/58334437 | www.leclarisse.com | 5 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.
Aventino
Domus Aventina.
$$$ | HOTEL | The best part of this quaint, friendly hotel is that it’s situated between two of Rome’s loveliest gardens—a municipal rose garden and Rome’s famous Orange Garden, where you might catch a glimpse of brides and grooms taking their wedding pictures—in the heart of the historic Aventine district not far from the Temple to Mithras and the House of Aquila and Priscilla (where St. Peter touched down). The 17th-century facade has been
restored so it almost looks modern—ditto for the inside, where guest rooms have standard modern decor. Half of the rooms also have balconies. Pros: quiet location; walking distance to tourist attractions; complimentary Wi-Fi in rooms and public spaces. Cons: no elevator in the hotel; small showers; no tubs. TripAdvisor: “quiet,” “good hotel,” “great location.” | Rooms from: €205 | Via di Santa Prisca 11/b,
Aventino | 00153 | 06/5746135 | www.domus-aventina.com | 26 rooms | Breakfast.
Hotel San Anselmo.
$$$ | HOTEL | Completely refurbished in 2006 and given a sleek metropolitan feel, this 19th-century villa blends bits of Baroque antique-flair (such as period chandeliers) with contemporary pieces (such as the sharp stainless-steel fireplace in the public spaces), all within a molto charming garden, where birdsong adds to the charm of this already romantic retreat, set far from the bustle of the city center atop the Aventine Hill. Each guest
room is carefully designed to follow a particular theme such as “Room of the Poems,” which features poems beautifully scrawled onto the walls, and the “Room of Kisses,” with a big canopy bed with romantic and suggestive drapes. Pros: historic building with artful decor; great showers with jets; a garden where you can enjoy your breakfast. Cons: some consider it a bit of a hike to sights; limited public
transportation; the wireless is pricey. TripAdvisor: “beautiful hotel and great staff,” “truly magnificent,” “amazing villa.” | Rooms from: €210 | Piazza San Anselmo 2,
Aventino | 00153 | 06/570057 | www.aventinohotels.com | 45 rooms | Breakfast.
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