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The Arts | The Arts Listings by Neighborhood | Nightlife | Nightlife Listings by Neighborhood
Updated by Erica Firpo
The Arts
Rome has a good range of publications with timely information regarding events and happenings in the city. Begin with the city’s official website (www.comune.roma.it). Likewise, events listings can be found in the Cronaca and Cultura section of Italian newspapers, as well as in Metro (the free newspaper). The most comprehensive listings are in the weekly roma c’è booklet, which comes out every Wednesday. Flip to the back for the brief yet detailed English-language section. Check out the events site inromenow.com and www.romeing.it, in English, as well as the monthly-updated Time Out: Rome (www.timeout.com/travel/rome) and The American (www.theamericanmag.com). In addition, consult the monthly English-language periodical (with accompanying website), Wanted in Rome (www.wantedinrome.com), available at many newsstands.
Tickets
TicketOne.
For blockbuster cultural performances, rock concerts, and sporting events, TicketOne is the major online ticket vendor. | www.ticketone.it.
Hello Ticket.
One of Italy’s largest ticket vendors (both online and at ticket offices), Hello Ticket covers major musical performances and cultural events in Rome and throughout Italy. | Viale Alessandro Manzoni 53,
San Giovanni | 00185 | 06/48078202 | www.helloticket.it.
Orbis.
An in-person ticket vendor, Orbis stocks a wide array of tickets for music, cultural, and performance events. | Piazza dell’Esquilino 37,
Repubblica | 00185 | 06/4827403.
Classical Music
Christmastime is an especially busy classical concert season in Rome. Many small classical concert groups perform in cultural centers and churches year-round; most performances in Catholic churches are religious music and are free. Look for posters outside the churches. Pop, jazz, and world music concerts are frequent, especially in summer, although they may not be well advertised. Many of the bigger-name acts perform outside the center, so it’s worth asking about transportation before you buy your tickets (about €10–€40).
Dance
Modern dance and classical ballet companies from Russia, the United States, and Europe sporadically visit Rome; performances are at the Teatro dell’Opera, Teatro Olimpico, or one of the open-air venues in summer. Small dance companies from Italy and abroad perform in numerous venues.
Film
Movie tickets range in price from €4.50 for matinees and some weeknights up to €10 for reserved seats on weekend evenings; all films, unless noted “V.O.” in the listing, which means versione originale (original version or original language), are shown in Italian. Certain movie theaters offer special discounts to women on Tuesday, with tickets for as little as €4.50. Check listings in roma c’è or www.inromenow.com for reviews of all English-language films currently playing, or visit www.mymovies.it for a list of current features.
Main Venues
Fodor’s Choice |
Auditorium Parco della Musica.
Designed by famous architect Renzo Piano, the Auditorium Parco della Musica is the place to perform in Rome. The amazing space features three halls with nearly perfect acoustics, and a large courtyard for outdoor classical, jazz, and pop concerts. In addition, it hosts dance troupes and cultural festivals. The venue is a 10-minute tram ride north of Piazza del Popolo. | Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30,
Flaminio | 00196 | 06/80241, 06/68801044
information and tickets | www.auditorium.com.
Teatro Argentina.
The opulence of Rome’s beautiful turn-of-the-century theater—burgundy velvet upholstery and large crystal chandeliers—evokes belle epoque glamour. Most productions are in Italian; however, it occasionally showcases some dance performances, which don’t require subtitles. | Largo di Torre Argentina 52,
Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/68400015 | www.teatrodiroma.net.
Teatro Olimpico.
This is the venue for contemporary dance companies, visiting international ballet companies, and touring Broadway shows like Stomp. | Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17,
Flaminio | 00196 | 06/3265991 | www.teatroolimpico.it.
The Arts Listings by Neighborhood
Entertainment Alfresco
Roman nightlife moves outdoors in summertime, and that goes not only for pubs and discos but for higher culture as well. Open-air opera in particular is a venerable Italian tradition; competing companies commandeer church courtyards, ancient villas, and soccer stadiums for performances that range from student-run mom-and-poperas to full-scale extravaganzas. The same goes for dance and for concerts covering the spectrum of pop, classical, and jazz. Look for performances at the Baths of Caracalla, site of the famous televised “Three Tenors” concert; regardless of the production quality, it’s a breathtaking setting. In general, though, you can count on performances being quite good, even if small productions often resort to school-play scenery and folding chairs to cut costs. An outdoor theater is also set up in Villa Borghese; Shakespeare productions are popular. Tickets run about €15–€50. The more sophisticated productions may be listed in newspapers and magazines such as roma c’è, but your best sources for information are old-fashioned posters plastered all over the city, advertising classics such as Tosca and La Traviata.
Campo de’ Fiori
Classical Music
Oratorio del Gonfalone.
A small concert hall with an internationally recognized music series of Baroque classics, the Oratorio del Gonfalone has highly decorated walls of beautiful mannerist frescoes respresenting the very best of the mid-16th century. | Via del Gonfalone 32/a,
Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/6875952 | www.oratoriogonfalone.com.
Ghetto
Classical Music
Il Tempietto.
Il Tempietto organizes music festivals and concerts throughout the year in otherwise inaccessible sites such as the Teatro di Marcello. Music ranges from classical to contemporary. | Piazza Campitelli 9,
Ghetto | 00186 | 06/87131590 | www.tempietto.it.
Flaminio
Classical Music
Accademia di Santa Cecilia.
The Accademia di Santa Cecilia is part of Rome’s amazing and well-versed musical circuit with a program of performances from classical to contemporary and a lineup of world-renowned artists. The futurist Auditorium Parco della Musica hosts Santa Cecilia’s concerts. | Concert hall and box office,
Via Pietro de Coubertin 34,
Flaminio | 00196 | 06/8082058 | www.santacecilia.it.
Accademia Filarmonica Romana.
Nearly two centuries old, the Accademia Filarmonica Romana is one of Rome’s historic concert venues featuring classical music. The garden hosts occasional outdoor performances. | Via Flaminia 118,
Flaminia | 001866 | 06/3201752 | www.filarmonicaromana.org.
Navona
Classical Music
Chiostro del Bramante.
A charming former cloister and art venue/cultural center, the Chiostro has a cocktail room reminiscent of Mad Men with equally inspired 1960s cocktails. The Bramante-designed bar hosts smaller shows of modern and contemporary artists like Warhol, Balla, and Basquiat as well as classical works. | Via della Pace 5,
Navona | 00186 | 06/68809036 | www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Pantheon
Classical Music
Hallowed Sounds.
Throughout the year, churches like Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, San Francesco a Ripa, and San Paolo entro le Mura usually have afternoon and evening performances. Look for posters outside churches announcing free concerts, particularly at Sant’Ignazio (Piazza Sant’Ignazio, Pantheon, 06/6794560), which often hosts concerts in a spectacularly frescoed setting. You could also sit in the shadow of the Theatre of Marcello (Via del Teatro Marcello, Ghetto, 06/488991) for its
summertime concert series. | Piazza Sant’Ignazio,
Pantheon | 00186 | 06/6794560 | www.amicimusicasacra.com/chiesa_di_s_ignazio.htm.
Repubblica
Film
The Space Cinema Moderno.
Perhaps the most “American” of all Rome’s theaters (hint: great concessions, stadium seating, and comfortable, couchlike chairs), the cinema has five screens, occasionally screening English-language and original-language films. Easy to find, the Moderno is located in the porticoes of Piazza Repubblica, next to the classic Exedra Hotel. | Piazza della Repubblica 45–46,
Repubblica | 00185 | 06/47779202 | www.thespacecinema.it.
Opera
Fodor’s Choice |
Teatro dell’Opera.
Recently Rome has come into the spotlight for opera aficionados thanks to Maestro Riccardo Muti’s 2011 Nabucco performance and his recent support of Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera. Though considered a far younger sibling of Milan’s La Scala and Venice’s La Fenice, the company does command an audience during its mid-November to May season. Tickets are on sale in advance of the season. In the hot summer months the company moves to the Baths of
Caracalla for its outdoor opera series. As can be expected, the oft-preferred performance is Aïda for its spectacle, which has been known to include real elephants. The company has taken a new direction, using projections atop the ancient ruins to create cutting-edge sets. | Piazza Beniamino Gigli 8,
Repubblica | 00185 | 06/481601, 06/48160255
tickets | www.operaroma.it.
The season for the Opera Theater of Rome (06/481601, 06/48160255 tickets | www.operaroma.it) runs from November or December to May. Main performances are staged at the Teatro dell’Opera, on Piazza Beniamino Gigli, in cooler weather, and at outdoor locations, such as Piazza del Popolo and the spectacular Terme di Caracalla (Baths of Caracalla), in summer.
Termini
Dance
Corps de Ballet, Teatro dell’Opera.
The Corps de Ballet of the Teatro dell’Opera performs throughout the year at the belle epoque opera house. Performances include many of the classics, often with leading international guest stars. During the summer season, the company stages ballets alfresco at the Baths of Caracalla, mixing contemporary set design with the classic structure. | Teatro dell’Opera,
Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7,
Termini | 0018 | 06/48160255 | www.operaroma.it.
Trastevere
Classical Music
Orto Botanico.
The historic botanical garden spans over 30 acres at the base of the Janiculum Hill in Trastevere. In this redolent and verdant setting, the spring and summer seasons promote art and summer concert series. | Largo Cristina di Svezia 23/a,
Trastevere | 00152 | 06/49917107 | sweb01.dbv.uniroma1.it/orto/index.html.
Villa Borghese
Film
Casa del Cinema.
Dedicated to the art of the silver screen, Casa del Cinema is Rome’s most modern projection house and film library. Located in Villa Borghese, this oasis for film buffs has multiple screening rooms, a caffè, and a resource center with DVD library and laptops for private viewings. They show many new and retro films, and often showcase the original-language films from the fall’s Venice Film Festival and Roma Cinema Fest (www.romacinemafest.it). Like its indoor counterpart, the outdoor projection screen shows both new and vintage films, sometimes in original languages, though only in the warm months. | Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1,
Villa Borghese | 00186 | 06/423601 | www.casadelcinema.it.
Nightlife
Rome’s nightlife is decidedly more happening for locals and insiders who know whose palms to grease and when to go where. The “flavor of the month” factor is at work here, and many places fade into oblivion after their 15 minutes of fame. Smoking has been banned in all public areas in Italy (that’s right, it actually happened); Roman aversion to clean air has meant a decrease in crowds at bars and clubs. The best sources for an up-to-date list of nightspots are the roma c’è, Romeing, and Time Out Roma magazines. Trastevere and the area around Piazza Navona are both filled with bars, restaurants, and, after dark, people. In summer, discos and many bars close to beat the heat (although some simply relocate to the beach, where many Romans spend their summer nights). The city-sponsored Estate Romana (Rome Summer) festival takes over, lighting up hot city nights with open-air concerts, bars, and discos. Pick up the event guide at newsstands.
Nightclubs and Discos
Most dance clubs open about 10:30 pm and charge an entrance fee of about €20, which may include the first drink (subsequent drinks cost about €10). Clubs are usually closed Monday, and all those listed here close in summer, when the city’s nightlife scene goes seaside to the beaches of Ostia and Fregene. The liveliest areas for clubs with a younger clientele are the grittier working-class districts of Testaccio, Ostiense, and San Lorenzo. Any of the clubs lining Via Galvani, leading up to Monte Testaccio, are fair game for a trendy, crowded dance-floor experience—names and ownership of clubs change frequently, but the overall scene has shown exciting staying power, growing into a DJ “Disneyland.”
Nightlife Listings by Neighborhood
Campo de’ Fiori
Cafés and Wine Bars
L’Angolo Divino.
Hidden on a back alley, this quiet enoteca with wood-panelled walls showing off than 7,000 of bottles of wine (over 1,000 labels overall), delicious homemade pastas, and local antipasti offers a nice respite from the chaotic, adjacent Campo de’ Fiori. | Via dei Balestrari 12,
Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/6864413.
Vineria Reggio.
The quintessential Roman wine bar, at the Vineria the first focus is whetting one’s whistle and the last is style. The crowd ranges from grandfathers to glitterati. | Campo de’ Fiori 15,
Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/68803268.
Rooftop Terraces and Upscale Bars
Rooftop Lounge Bar at the St. George Hotel.
The latest front-runner in Rome’s ever-growing list of rooftop sweet spots has a delicious oyster selection headlining its seafood-based menu and a dizzying drink selection that includes cocktails, beer, and many rosés—from pink champagnes to Italian rosati. The St. George’s Wine Bar and Cigar Room make an excellent substitute in the non-summer months when the rooftop is closed. | Via Giulia 62,
Campo de’ Fiori | 00186 | 06/686611 | www.stgeorgehotel.it.
Monti
Cafés and Wine Bars
Ai Tre Scalini.
This rustic hangout—think wooden walls and counters—in Monti, Rome’s boho ‘hood, serves delicious antipasti and light entrées and has an enticing wine list. | Via Panisperna 251,
Monti | 00184 | 06/48907495 | www.aitrescalini.org.
Navona
Cafés and Wine Bars
Antico Caffè della Pace.
It doesn’t get any more Rome than this: a cappuccino or cocktail al fresco at a turn-of-the-20th-century-style caffè nestled in the picturesque side streets behind Piazza Navona. Celebrities and literati hang out at the coveted outdoor tables of Antico Caffè della Pace, also known as Bar della Pace, where the atmosphere ranges from peaceful to percolating. La Pace’s location is equally enchanting, in the piazzatina (tiny piazza) of Santa
Maria della Pace, by baroque architect Pietro da Cortona. The only drawbacks: overpriced table service and distracted waiters. | Via della Pace 3/7,
Navona | 00186 | 06/6861216 | www.caffedellapace.it.
Fluid.
With excellent cocktails and slick design, Fluid lures in passersby with its looking-glass front window where the aperitivi crowd likes to be seen. | Via del Governo Vecchio 46/47,
Navona | 00186 | 06/6832361 | www.fluideventi.com.
Rooftop Terraces and Upscale Bars
Terrace Bar of the Hotel Raphael.
Noted for its bird’s-eye view of the campaniles and palazzos of the Piazza Navona and seemingly floating in the moonlit sky, the Terrace Bar ranks high on Rome’s list of romantic views. | Largo Febo 2,
Navona | 00186 | 06/682831 | www.raphaelhotel.com | Open during the summer only.
Nightclubs and Discos
La Cabala.
Atop the medieval palazzo, La Cabala looks over the Eternal City. Rome’s version of a supper club, La Cabala is part of the Hostaria dell’Orso trio of restaurant, disco, and piano bar. Dress code is stylish. | Hostaria dell’Orso,
Via dei Soldati 23,
Navona | 00186 | 06/68301192 | www.hdo.it.
La Maison.
At Rome’s best after-dinner club the large dance floor plays second fiddle to the VIP room, where wanna-be models lounge in their very best DVF dresses and manicured boys vie for their attention. Depending on the evening, vibe can be chic, hipster, or clubby. Rule of thumb: head straight to the back room and grab a couch. | Vicolo dei Granari 4,
Navona | 00186 | 06/6833312 | www.lamaisonroma.it.
Piazza di Spagna
Cafés and Wine Bars
Enoteca Antica.
The area between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps has plenty of eateries, but be warned: Many are touristy and overpriced. Although their service can be slow, Enoteca Antica, just off Piazza di Spagna, has a good wine list and reasonable food in a charming, old-fashioned atmosphere. | Via della Croce 76,
Piazza di Spagna | 00187 | 06/6790896.
Enoteca Palatium.
Just down the street from the Piazza di Spagna hub is this quiet gem run by Lazio’s Regional Food Authority as a chic showcase for the best of Lazio’s pantry and wine cellar: from its fine vintages to olive oils, cheese, and meats to a full seasonal menu of Lazio cuisine. Located where famed aesthete and poet Gabriele d’Annunzio once lived, this is not your garden-variety corner wine bar. TIP
Stop by during aperitivo hour, from 6:30 pm onward (reservations recommended) to enjoy this burst of local flavor. | Via Frattina,
94,
Piazza di Spagna | 00186.
Rooftop Terraces and Upscale Bars
5th Floor Terrace at the Palazzetto.
The prize for perfect aperitivo spot goes to the Palazzetto, with excellent drinks and appetizers and a breathtaking view of Rome’s domes and rooftops, all from its rooftop overlooking Piazza di Spagna. | Palazzetto,
Piazza Trinità di Monti,
Spagna | 00186 | 06/699341000.
Nightclubs and Discos
Gilda.
Every year, Gilda reinvents herself to continue the never-evening party near the Spanish Steps. Recent incarnations have added a piano bar and restaurant just off the dance floors. | Via Mario de’ Fiori 97,
Spagna | 00187 | 06/6784838 | www.gildabar.it.
Piazza Vittorio
Nightclubs and Discos
Casa Clementina.
“There’s no place like home” seems to be the motto of Rome’s latest concept lounge. Casa Clementina has a truly homey vibe—an ersatz home with kitchen, living room, dining room, and bedroom at your disposal, whether to enjoy live performances or cocktails and the very abundant aperitivo hour. | Via Clementina 9,
Piazza Vittorio | 00184 | 39/3927105273.
Popolo
Rooftop Terraces and Upscale Bars
Stravinskij Bar at the Hotel de Russie.
Rome’s dolce vita is best found in the restaurant Le Jardin de Russie, in particular the terraced garden of the Stravinskij Bar, where celebrities, blue bloods, and VIPs hang out. Mixed drinks are well above par, as are the prices. | Hotel de Russie,
Via del Babuino 9,
Popolo | 00187 | 06/328881 | www.hotelderussie.it.
Repubblica
Rooftop Terraces and Upscale Bars
Champagnerie Tazio.
A chic champagne bar named after the original Italian paparazzo, Tazio has a red, black, and white lacquered interior with crystal chandeliers and a distinct ‘80s feel (think Robert Palmer, “Addicted to Love”). The favorite pastime here is sipping champagne while watching the people parade through the colonnade of the lobby. In summer the hotel’s rooftop Posh bar is the place to be, with its infinity pool and terrace view overlooking
downtown. | Hotel Exedra,
Piazza della Repubblica 47,
Repubblica | 00187 | 06/489381 | www.boscolohotels.com.
Testaccio
Nightclubs and Discos
Hulala.
Still considered a designer discoteca and magnet for fashionistas, Hulala is evolving as the crowd diversifies into a younger generation. Decor is 1960s mod. | Via dei Conciatori 7,
Testaccio | 00154 | 06/57300429.
Joia.
Joia has reigned as the gem of Testaccio’s Via Galvani for several years now, thanks to its excellent DJs and bartenders. Doors don’t open until 11 pm, but lines are always elbow-room only; try calling ahead to get on the list. | Via Galvani 20,
Testaccio | 00153 | 06/5740802, 39/3290370784.
Ketum Bar.
Excellent for people-watchers, and even better if you want to mix a bit of culture with your clubbing. The glass-covered walls show off shards of 1st-century amphorae to remind you that Ketum Bar was carved out of a mountain of pottery. | Via Galvani 24,
Testaccio | 00153 | 06/57305338 | www.ketumbar.it.
Trastevere
Cafés and Wine Bars
Freni e Frizioni.
Hipster hangout Freni e Frizioni’s has a cute artist vibe great for coffee, tea, aperitifs, and late-night hanging out. In warmer weather the crowd overflows the large terrazzo overlooking the Tiber and the side streets of Trastevere. | Via del Politeama 4,
Trastevere | 00153 | 06/45497499 | www.freniefrizioni.com.
Veneto
Nightclubs and Discos
Jackie O’.
A dip into Rome’s dolce vita is not complete without a visit to the historic Jackie O’, a retro-hip disco and restaurant off Via Veneto. The small lounge area is where you want to be, and don’t arrive before 11 pm. | Via Boncompagni 11,
Veneto | 00187 | 06/42885457 | www.jackieoroma.com.
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