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Exploring Padua | Where to Eat in Padua | Where to Stay in Padua | Cafés and Wine Bars

A romantic warren of arcaded streets, Padua has long been one of the major cultural centers of northern Italy. Its university, founded in 1222 and Italy’s second oldest, attracted such cultural icons as Dante (1265–1321), Petrarch (1304–74), and Galileo Galilei (1564–1642), thus earning the city the sobriquet La Dotta (The Learned). Padua’s Basilica di Sant’Antonio, begun around 1238, is dedicated to Saint Anthony, and it attracts droves of pilgrims, especially on his feast day, June 13. Three great artists—Giotto (1266–1337), Donatello (circa 1386–1466), and Mantegna (1431–1506)—left significant works in Padua, with Giotto’s Scrovegni Chapel being one of the best-known, and most meticulously preserved, works of art in the country. Today, a cycle-happy student body—some 50,000 strong—flavors every aspect of local culture. Don’t be surprised if you spot a laurea (graduation) ceremony marked by laurel leaves, mocking lullabies, and X-rated caricatures.

Getting Here

Many people visit Padua from Venice: the train trip between the cities is short, and regular bus service originates from Venice’s Piazzale Roma. By car from Milan or Venice, Padua is on the Autostrada Torino–Trieste A4/E70. Take the San Carlo exit and follow Via Guido Reni to Via Tiziano Aspetti into town. From the south, take the Autostrada Bologna Padova A13 to its Padua terminus at Via Ballaglia. Regular bus service connects Venice’s Marco Polo airport with downtown Padua.

Padua is a walker’s city. If you arrive by car, leave your vehicle in one of the parking lots on the outskirts, or at your hotel. Unlimited bus service is included with the Padova Card (€15 or €20, valid for 48 or 72 hours), which allows entry to all the city’s principal sights. It’s available at tourist information offices and at some museums and hotels.

Visitor Information

Padua Tourism Office.
Padova Railway Station | 35100 | 049/8752077 | www.turismopadova.it | Galleria Pedrocchi | 35100 | 049/8767927.

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Exploring Padua

Top Attractions

Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Basilica del Santo).
Thousands of faithful make the pilgrimage here each year to pray at the tomb of Saint Anthony. The huge church, which combines elements of Byzantine, Romanesque, and Gothic styles, was probably begun around 1238, seven years after the death of the Portuguese-born saint. It was completed in 1310, with structural modifications added from the end of the 14th century into the mid-15th century. The imposing interior contains works by the 15th-century Florentine master Donatello. He sculpted the series of bronze reliefs illustrating the miracles of Saint Anthony, as well as the bronze statues of the Madonna and saints, on the high altar. Because of the site’s popularity with pilgrims, masses are held in the basilica almost constantly, which makes it difficult to see these works. More accessible is the recently restored Cappella del Santo (housing the tomb of the saint), which dates from the 16th century. Its walls are covered with impressive reliefs by various important Renaissance sculptors, including Jacopo Sansovino (1486–1570), the architect of the library in Venice’s Piazza San Marco, and Tullio Lombardo (1455–1532), the greatest in a family of sculptors who decorated many churches in the area, among them Venice’s Santa Maria dei Miracoli. In front of the church is an undisputed masterpiece of Italian Renaissance sculpture, Donatello’s equestrian statue (1453) of the condottiere (mercenary general) Erasmo da Narni, known as Gattamelata. Inspired by the ancient statue of Marcus Aurelius in Rome’s Campidoglio, it is the first in a series of Italian Renaissance monumental equestrian statues. | Piazza del Santo | 35100 | 049/8789722 | www.santantonio.org | Oct.–Apr., daily 6:20 am–7 pm; May–Sept., daily 6:20 am–7:45 pm.

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The Venetian Arc, Past and Present

Long before Venetians made their presence felt on the mainland in the 15th century, Ezzelino III da Romano (1194–1259), a larger-than-life scourge who was excommunicated by Pope Innocent IV, laid claim to Verona, Padua, and the surrounding lands and towns. After he was ousted, powerful families such as Padua’s Carrara and Verona’s della Scala (Scaligeri) vied throughout the 14th century to dominate these territories. With the rise of Venetian rule came a time of relative peace, when noble families from the lagoon and the mainland commissioned Palladio and other accomplished architects to design their palazzi and villas. This rich classical legacy, superimposed upon medieval castles and fortifications, is central to the identities of present-day Padua, Vicenza, and Verona. The region remained under Venetian control until the Napoleonic invasion and the fall of the Venetian Republic in 1797. The Council of Vienna ceded it, along with Lombardy, to Austria in 1815. The region revolted against Austrian rule and joined the Italian Republic in 1866.

Friuli–Venezia Giulia’s complicated history is reflected in its architecture, language, and cuisine. It’s been marched through, fought over, hymned by patriots, and romanticized by writers that include James Joyce, Rainer Maria Rilke, and Jan Morris. Trieste was also vividly depicted in the novels of the towering figure of early-20th-century Italian letters, Italo Svevo. The region has seen Fascists and Communists, Romans, Habsburgs, and Huns. It survived by forging sheltering alliances—Udine beneath the wings of San Marco (1420), Trieste choosing Duke Leopold of Austria (1382) over Venetian domination.

Some of World War I’s fiercest fighting took place in Friuli–Venezia Giulia, where memorials and cemeteries commemorate hundreds of thousands who died before the arrival of Italian troops in 1918 finally liberated Trieste from Austrian rule. Trieste, along with the whole of Venezia Giulia, was annexed to Italy in 1920. During World War II the Germans occupied the area and placed Trieste in an administrative zone along with parts of Slovenia. One of Italy’s two concentration camps was near Trieste. After the war, during a period of Cold War dispute, Trieste was governed by an allied military administration; it was officially re-annexed to Italy in 1954, when Italy ceded the Istrian peninsula to the south to Yugoslavia. These arrangements were not finally ratified by Italy and Yugoslavia until 1975.

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Fodor’s Choice | Cappella degli Scrovegni (The Arena Chapel).
This world-famous chapel and its frescoes were commissioned by Enrico Scrovegno to atone for the sins of his deceased father, Reginaldo, the usurer encountered by Dante in the Seventh Circle of the Inferno in his Divine Comedy. Giotto and his assistants decorated the interior from 1303 to 1305 with a universally acclaimed fresco cycle illustrating the lives of Mary and Jesus. The 38 panels are arranged in tiers and are to be read from left to right. The spatial depth, emotional intensity, and naturalism of these frescoes—note the use of blue sky instead of the conventional, depth-destroying gold background of medieval painting—broke new ground in Western art. Opposite the altar is a Last Judgment, most likely designed and painted by Giotto’s assistants, where Enrico offers his chapel to the Virgin, celebrating her role in human salvation—particularly appropriate, given the penitential purpose of the chapel.

Mandatory reservations are for a specific time and are nonrefundable. They can be made well in advance at the ticket office, online, or by phone. Payments online or by phone by credit card must be made one day in advance; payments by bank transfer (possible by phone only) should be made four days in advance. Reservations are necessary even if you have a Padova Card. In order to preserve the artwork, doors are opened only every 15 minutes. A maximum of 25 visitors at a time must spend 15 minutes in an acclimatization room before making a 15-minute (20-minute in winter, late June, and July) chapel visit. Punctuality is essential; tickets should be picked up at least one hour before your reservation time. If you don’t have a reservation, it’s sometimes possible to buy your chapel admission on the spot—but you might have to wait a while until there’s a group with an opening. You can see fresco details as part of a virtual tour at Musei Civici degli Eremitani. A good place to get some background before visiting the chapel is the multimedia room, which offers films and interactive computer presentations. | Piazza Eremitani 8 | 35100 | 049/2010020 for reservations | www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it | €13 includes Musei Civici, or €1 with Padova Card | Early Nov.–early Mar. and mid-June–early Aug., daily 9–7; early Mar.–mid-June and early Aug.–early Nov., Mon. 9–7, Tues.–Sun. 9 am–10 pm; entry by reservation only.

Palazzo della Ragione.
Also known as Il Salone, this spectacular arcaded reception hall, which divides the Piazza delle Frutta from the Piazza delle Erbe, was built between 1172 and 1219, with later 14th and 15th-century additions. Giotto painted the original frescoes, which were destroyed in a fire in 1420. The existing ones are primarily by Niccolò Miretto and Stefano di Ferrara, working from 1425 to 1440 and following the original plan of Giotto’s frescoes. In the Middle Ages, as its name implies, the building housed Padua’s law courts; today, its street-level arcades shelter shops and cafés. Art shows are often held upstairs in the frescoed Salone, which, at 85 feet high, is one of the largest halls in Italy. In this stunning space there’s an enormous wooden horse, crafted for a 15th-century public tournament, with a head and tail later remodeled to replicate the steed from Donatello’s Gattamelata. In the piazza surrounding the building are Padua’s colorful open-air fruit and vegetable markets. | Piazza della Ragione | 35122 | 049/8205006 | Salone €4, free with Padova Card | Feb.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9–7; Nov.–Jan., Tues.–Sun. 9–6.

Piazza dei Signori.
Some fine examples of 15th- and 16th-century buildings line this square. On the west side, the Palazzo del Capitanio (facade constructed 1598–1605) has an impressive Torre dell’Orologio, with an astronomical clock dating from 1344 and a portal made by Falconetto in 1532 in the form of a Roman triumphal arch. The 12th-century Battistero del Duomo (Cathedral Baptistry), with frescoes by Giusto de Menabuoi (1374–78), is a few steps away. | Piazza del Duomo | 35100 | 049/656914 | Battistero: €2.80, free with Padova Card | Daily 10–6.

Villa Pisani.
Extensive grounds with rare trees, ornamental fountains, and garden follies surround this extraordinary palace in Stra, 13 km (8 miles) southeast of Padua. Built in 1721 for the Venetian doge Alvise Pisani, it recalls Versailles more than a Veneto villa. This was one of the last and grandest of many stately residences constructed along the Brenta River from the 16th to 18th century by wealthy Venetians for their villeggiatura—vacation and escape from the midsummer humidity. Gianbattista Tiepolo’s (1696–1770) spectacular frescoes on the ballroom ceiling alone are worth the visit. For a relaxing afternoon, explore the gorgeous park and maze. To get here from Venice, take Bus 53 from Piazzale Roma. The villa is a five-minute walk from the bus stop in Stra. | Via Doge Pisani 7, | Stra | 30039 | 041/2719019 | www.villapisani.beniculturali.it | €7.50; park only, €4.50 | Villa and park: April–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 9–7 ; Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9–5; Nov.–March, Tues.–Sun. 9–4); Maze closed Nov.–Feb.

Worth Noting

Chiesa degli Eremitani.
This 13th-century church houses substantial fragments of Andrea Mantegna’s frescoes (1448–50), damaged by Allied bombing in World War II. Despite their fragmentary condition, Mantegna’s still beautiful and historically important frescoes, depicting the martyrdom of Saint James and Saint Christopher, show the young artist’s mastery of extremely complex problems of perspective. | Piazza degli Eremitani | 35121 | 049/8756410 | Mon.–Sat. 8–6; Sun. 10–1 and 4–7.

Musei Civici degli Eremitani (Civic Museum).
What was formerly a monastery now houses works of Venetian masters, as well as fine collections of archaeological pieces and ancient coins. Notable are the Giotto Crucifix, which once hung in the Scrovegni Chapel, and the Portrait of a Young Senator by Giovanni Bellini (1430–1516). | Piazza Eremitani 10 | 35121 | 049/8204551 | €10, €12 with Scrovegni Chapel, free with Padova Card | Tues.–Sun. 9–7.

Orto Botanico (Botanical Garden).
The Venetian Republic ordered the creation of Padua’s botanical garden in 1545 to supply the university with medicinal plants. You can stroll the arboretum and wander through hothouses and beds of plants that were first introduced to Italy in this late-Renaissance garden, which still maintains its original layout. A St. Peter’s palm, planted in 1585, inspired Goethe to write his 1790 essay called “The Metamorphosis of Plants.” | Via Orto Botanico 15 | 35123 | 049/8272119 | www.ortobotanico.unipd.it | €4, free with Padova Card | Apr.–Oct., daily 9–1 and 3–7; Nov.–Mar., Mon.–Sat. 9–1.

Palazzo del Bo’.
The University of Padua, founded in 1222, centers around this 16th-century palazzo with an 18th-century facade. It’s named after the Osteria del Bo’ (bo’ means “ox”), an inn that once stood on the site. It’s worth a visit to see the exquisite and perfectly proportioned anatomy theater (1594), the beautiful “Old Courtyard,” and a hall with a lectern used by Galileo. You can enter only as part of a guided tour. Most guides speak English, but it is worth checking ahead by phone. | Via VIII Febbraio | 35122 | 049/8273044 | www.unipd.it | €3 | Nov.–Feb., Mon., Wed., and Fri. at 3:15 and 4:15, Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at 10:15 and 11:15; Mar.–Oct., Mon., Wed., and Fri. at 3:15, 4:15, and 5:15; Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at 9:15, 10:15, and 11:15.

Where to Eat in Padua

La Finestra.
$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | One of the trendier restaurant in Padua, La Finestra is cozy yet elegant. The carefully prepared and creatively presented dishes may not always stick to tradition, but no one can claim that owners Carlo Vidali and Hélène Dao don’t know what they’re doing in the kitchen. Their version of the regional classic pasta e fagioli, for example, uses the most exquisite beans in the region, leaves out the pasta, and substitutes croutons and a dollop of foie gras. This is not grandma’s bean soup, but it’s heavenly. | Average cost: €55 | Via dei Tadi 15 | 35139 | 049/650313 | www.ristorantefinestra.it | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and 3 wks in Aug. No lunch Tues.–Thurs., no dinner Sun.

L’Anfora.
$ | WINE BAR | This mix between a traditional bacaro (wine bar) and an osteria (tavernlike restaurant) is a local institution. Stand at the bar shoulder to shoulder with a cross section of Padovano society, from construction workers to professors, and let the friendly and knowledgeable proprietors help you choose a wine. The reasonably priced menu offers simple casalinga (home-cooked dishes), plus salads and a selection of cheeses. Portions are ample, and no one will look askance if you don’t order the full meal. The place is packed with loyal regulars at lunchtime, so come early or expect a wait. | Average cost: €27 | Via Soncin 13 | 35122 | 049/656629 | Closed Sun. (except in Dec.), 1 wk in Jan., and 1 wk in Aug.

Le Calandre.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | If you are willing to shell out around €500 for a dinner for two, and you are gastronomically adventurous, Le Calandre should definitely be on your itinerary. The quietly elegant restaurant is consistently judged by major critics as one of the two or three best restaurants in the country. The food, in part based on traditional Veneto recipes, is given a highly sophisticated and creative treatment. The traditional squid in its ink, for example, is served as a “cappuccino,” in a glass with a crust of potato foam. Other dishes, such as sole with a sauce of grapefruit and curry, leave the Veneto far behind. The menu changes seasonally, with owner-chef Massimiliano Alajmo’s creative impulses. Alajmo considers food to be an art form, not nourishment, so be prepared for minuscule portions. Make reservations well in advance. Le Calandre is in the village of Sarmeola di Rubano, a few kilometers west of Padua and easily reached by taxi. | Average cost: €220 | Via Liguria 1, | Sarmeola di Rubano | 35030 | 049/630303 | www.calandre.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon., Jan. 1–17 and Aug. 14–31.

Osteria Dal Capo.
$$ | VENETIAN | A friendly trattoria in the heart of what used to be Padua’s Jewish ghetto, Osteria Dal Capo serves almost exclusively traditional Veneto dishes and does so with refinement and care. The liver and onions is extraordinarily tender. Even the accompanying polenta is grilled to perfection—slightly crisp on the outside and moist on the inside. And the desserts are nothing to scoff at, either. Word is out among locals about this place, and the tiny place fills up quickly, so reservations are necessary. | Average cost: €35 | Via degli Oblizzi 2 | 35122 | 049/663105 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., 2 wks in early Jan., and 3 wks in Aug. No lunch Mon.

Where to Stay in Padua

Al Fagiano.
$ | HOTEL | This delightfully funky budget hotel sits near Basilica di Sant’Antonio, and some rooms have views of the church’s spires and cupolas. The decor includes sponge-painted walls, brush-painted chandeliers, and an elevator where artists (and others) can add graffiti to their heart’s content. An amiable staff and relatively central location make Al Fagiano pleasant and convenient. Unless previously arranged, there are restricted hours for checking in (noon–4) and checking out (10:30–noon). Pros: large rooms; relaxed atmosphere; convenient location. Cons: no room service or help with baggage; some find the eccentric decor a bit much. TripAdvisor: “heartwarming experience,” “unique and friendly,” “one of the most romantic hotels.” | Rooms from: €100 | Via Locatelli 45 | 35123 | 049/8750073 | www.alfagiano.com | 40 rooms | Multiple meal plans.

Albergo Verdi.
$$ | HOTEL | Located close to the Piazza dei Signori, this is one of the best-situated hotels in the city. The tastefully renovated rooms tend toward the minimalist, without being severe. For rooms in the center of a crowded city with narrow medieval streets, they have the rare virtue of being absolutely quiet. Pros: excellent location; attentive staff; pleasant and warm atmosphere; quiet. Cons: rooms, while ample, are not large; few views; charge for Wi-Fi access; hefty parking fee. TripAdvisor: “lovely,” “efficiently run,” “very modern but comfortable.” | Rooms from: €150 | Via Dondi dell’Orlogio 7 | 35139 | 049/8364163 | www.albergoverdipadova.it | 14 rooms | Breakfast.

Methis.
$ | HOTEL | The strikingly modern Methis takes its name from the Greek word for style and spirit. Four floors of sleekly designed guest rooms reflect the elements: gentle earth tones, fiery red, watery cool blue, and airy white in the top-floor suites. Rooms have Japanese-style tubs, and four are equipped for guests with disabilities. The lobby has one lounge and a quieter reading room. There’s a pleasant view from the front rooms, which face the canal. Pros: attractive rooms; helpful and attentive staff; pleasant little extras like umbrellas. Cons: a 15-minute walk from major sights and restaurants; public spaces are cold and uninviting. TripAdvisor: “perfect location,” “excellent service,” “very tranquil.” | Rooms from: €120 | Riviera Paleocapa 70 | 35141 | 049/8725555 | www.methishotel.com | 52 rooms, 7 suites | Breakfast.

Cafés and Wine Bars

Caffè Pedrocchi.
No visit to Padua is complete without a trip to Caffè Pedrocchi You can still sit here, as the French writer Stendahl did shortly after the café was established in 1831, and observe a good slice of Veneto life, especially, as he noted, the elegant ladies sipping their coffee. The massive café, built in a style reflecting the fashion set by Napoléon’s expeditions in Egypt, has long been central to the city’s social life. Its restaurant also serves lunch, and is proud of its innovative menu. | Piazzetta Pedrocchi | 35100 | 049/8781231 | www.caffepedrocchi.it.

Hostaria Ai Do Archi.
This is the most popular local version of the bacari that are so typical of the Veneto: wine bars where people sip wine, sample local treats, and talk politics. The Ai Do Archi is as famous for its impressive platters of sliced meats as it is for its selections of wine. Besides attracting students and locals, it’s also a meeting place for many of Padova’s reggae fans. The music can be at times overwhelming and the service a bit casual, but if reggae is your passion or you want a good taste of Padua student nightlife, this place certainly deserves your attention. | Via Nazario Sauro 23 | 35139 | 049/652335.

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