Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Exploring Vicenza | Where to Eat in Vicenza | Where to Stay in Vicenza | Nightlife and the Arts

Vicenza bears the distinctive signature of the 16th-century architect Andrea Palladio, whose name has been given to the “Palladian” style of architecture. He emphasized the principles of order and harmony using the classical style of architecture established by Renaissance architects such as Brunelleschi, Alberti, and Sansovino. He used these principles and classical motifs not only for public buildings but also for private dwellings. His elegant villas and palaces were influential in propagating classical architecture in Europe, especially Britain, and later in America—most notably at Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello.

In the mid-16th century Palladio was commissioned to rebuild much of Vicenza, which had been greatly damaged during wars waged against Venice by the League of Cambrai, an alliance of the papacy, France, the Holy Roman Empire, and several neighboring city-states. He made his name with the basilica, begun in 1549 in the heart of Vicenza, and then embarked on a series of lordly buildings, all of which adhere to the same classicism and principles of harmony.

Getting Here

Vicenza is midway between Padua and Verona, and several trains leave from both cities every hour. By car, take the Autostrada Brescia–Padova/Torino–Trieste A4/E70 to SP247 North directly into Vicenza.

Visitor Information

Vicenza Tourism Office.
Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 12 | 36100 | 0444/320854 | www.vicenzae.org | Piazza dei Signori 8 | 36100 | 0444/544122.

Previous Map | Next Map | Northern Italy Maps

Exploring Vicenza

Many of Palladio’s works are interspersed among the Venetian Gothic and Baroque palaces that line Corso Palladio, an elegant shopping thoroughfare where Vicenza’s status as one of Italy’s wealthiest cities is evident. Part of this wealth stems from Vicenza’s being a world center for gold jewelry.

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Teatro Olimpico.
Palladio’s last, and perhaps most spectacular work, was begun in 1580 and completed in 1585, after his death, by Vincenzo Scamozzi (1552–1616). Based closely on the model of ancient Roman theaters, it represents an important development in theater and stage design and is noteworthy for its acoustics and the cunning use of perspective in Scamozzi’s permanent backdrop. The anterooms are frescoed with images of important figures in Venetian history. As the oldest surviving covered theater, it’s still used for concerts and other performances. | Piazza Matteotti | 36100 | 0444/222800 | €8.50 includes admission to Palazzo Chiericati | Tues.–Sun. 9–5.

Fodor’s Choice | Villa della Rotonda (Villa Almerico Capra).
This beautiful Palladian villa, commissioned in 1556 as a suburban residence for Paolo Almerico, is undoubtedly the purest expression of Palladio’s architectural theory and aesthetic. It’s more a villa-temple than a house to live in. In this respect, it contradicts the rational utilitarianism of Renaissance architecture and therefore can called a prime example of mannerist architecture: it demonstrates the priority Palladio gave to architectural symbolism of celestial harmony over practical considerations. Although a visit to the interior of the building may be difficult to schedule (it’s still privately owned), it is well worth the effort in order to get an idea of how the people who commissioned the residence actually lived. Viewing the exterior and the grounds is a must for any visit to Vicenza. The villa is a 20-minute walk from town or a short ride on Bus 8 from Vicenza’s Piazza Roma. | Via della Rotonda | 36100 | 0444/321793 | Grounds and interior €10, grounds €5 | Mar. 15–Nov. 10: grounds Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 3–6; interior Wed. and Sat. 10–noon and 3–6. Nov. 11–Mar. 16: grounds Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2:30–5.

Villa Valmarana ai Nani.
Inside this 17th- to 18th-century country house, named for the statues of dwarfs adorning the garden, is a series of frescoes executed in 1757 by Gianbattista Tiepolo depicting scenes from classical mythology, The Illiad, Tasso’s Gerusalemme Liberata, and Ariosto’s Orlando Furioso. They include his Sacrifice of Iphigenia, a major masterpiece of 18th-century painting. The neighboring foresteria (guest house) is also part of the museum; it contains frescoes showing 18th-century life at its most charming, and scenes of chinoiserie popular in the 18th century, by Tiepolo’s son Giandomenico (1727–1804). The garden dwarves are probably taken from designs by Giandomenico. You can reach the villa on foot by following the same path that leads to Palladio’s Villa della Rotonda. | Via dei Nani 2/8 | 36100 | 0444/321803 | €9 | Early Mar.–early Nov., Tues.–Sat., 10–noon and 3–6.

Worth Noting

Palazzo Chiericati.
This imposing Palladian palazzo (1550) would be worthy of a visit even if it didn’t house Vicenza’s Museo Civico. Because of the ample space surrounding the building site, Palladio combined elements of an urban palazzo with those he used in his country villas. The museum’s important Venetian collection includes significant paintings by Cima, Tiepolo, Piazetta, and Tintoretto, but its main attraction is an extensive collection of highly interesting and rarely found painters from the Vicenza area, such as Jacopo Bassano (1515–92) and the eccentric and innovative Francesco Maffei (1605–60), whose work foreshadowed important currents of Venetian painting of subsequent generations. | Piazza Matteotti | 36100 | 0444/325071 | €8.50 includes admission to Teatro Olimpico | Tues.–Sun. 9–5.

Piazza dei Signori.
At the heart of Vicenza sits this square, which contains the Palazzo della Ragione (1549), commonly known as Palladio’s basilica, a courthouse, and public meeting hall (the original Roman meaning of the term “basilica”). With this project Palladio made his name by successfully modernizing the medieval building, grafting a graceful two-story exterior loggia onto the existing Gothic structure. Take a look also at the Loggia del Capitaniato, opposite, which Palladio designed but never completed. The palazzo and the loggia are open to the public only when there’s an exhibition; ask at the tourist office. The interior of the basilica is closed for restorations projected to 2013.

Where to Eat in Vicenza

Antico Ristorante agli Schioppi.
$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | When they want to eat well, Vicenza’s natives generally travel to the neighboring countryside—Antico Ristorante agli Schioppi is one of the few in the city frequented by Vicentino families and businessmen. Veneto country-style decor, with enormous murals, matches simple, well-prepared regional cuisine with some modern touches at this family-run restaurant. The risotto, delicately flavored with wild mushrooms and zucchini flowers, is creamy and beautifully textured. This is also an excellent place to try baccalà, a cod dish that is a Vicenza specialty. | Average cost: €35 | Contrà Piazza del Castello 26 | 36100 | 0444/543701 | www.ristoranteaglischioppi.com | Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.

Da Vittorio.
$ | PIZZA | It has little in the way of atmosphere or decor, but Vicentini flock to this small, casual place for what may be the best pizza north of Naples. There’s an incredible array of toppings, from the traditional to the exotic (mangoes), but the pizzas are all so authentic that they will make you think you are sitting by the Bay of Naples. The service is friendly and efficient. This is a great place to stop for lunch if you’re walking to Palladio’s Rotonda or the Villa Valmarana. | Average cost: €14 | Borgo Berga 52 | 36100 | 0444/525059 | No credit cards | Closed Tues. and 2 wks in July.

Ponte delle Bele.
$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | Vicenza lies at the foot of the Alps, and many of the wealthier residents spend at least a part of summer in the mountains to escape the heat. The Alpine cuisine that’s has been incorporated into the local culture can be enjoyed at this popular and friendly Veneto trattoria. The house specialty, stinco di maiale al forno (roast port shank), is wonderfully fragrant, with herbs and aromatic vegetables. Also try such game as venison with blueberries or guinea fowl roasted with white grapes. The rather kitschy decor doesn’t detract from the good, hearty food. | Average cost: €35 | Contrà Ponte delle Bele 5 | 36100 | 0444/320647 | www.pontedellebele.it | Closed Sun. and 2 wks in mid-Aug.

Righetti.
$ | ITALIAN | For a city of its size, Vicenza has few outstanding restaurants. That’s why many people gravitate to this popular cafeteria, which serves excellently prepared classic dishes without putting a dent in your wallet. There’s frequently a hearty soup such as orzo e fagioli (barley and bean) on the menu. The classic baccalà alla vicentina, a cod dish, is a great reason to stop by on Tuesday or Friday. Righetti tends to be a bit crowded at lunch, so be patient. It’s also open until 10 or so for dinner. | Average cost: €14 | Piazza Duomo 3 | 36100 | 0444/543135 | No credit cards | Closed weekends, 1st wk in Jan., and Aug.

Where to Stay in Vicenza

During annual gold fairs in January, May, and September, it may be quite difficult to find lodging. If you’re coming then, be sure to reserve well in advance and expect to pay higher rates.

Campo Marzio.
$$ | HOTEL | A five-minute walk from the railway station, this comfortable hotel is right in front of the city walls. You can borrow a bicycle to explore the town. Rooms are ample and furnished in various styles, from modern to traditional and romantic. This is one of the few full-service hotels in Vicenza, so it fills up quickly during the gold fairs—when rates nearly double. Pros: central location; more amenities than its competitors; set back from the street, so it’s quiet and bright. Cons: public spaces are uninspiring; incredibly expensive during fairs. TripAdvisor: “great staff,” “comfortable,” “convenient yet quiet location.” | Rooms from: €140 | Viale Roma 21 | 36100 | 0444/5457000 | www.hotelcampomarzio.com | 36 rooms | Breakfast.

Due Mori.
$ | HOTEL | Turn-of-the-20th-century antiques fill the rooms at this 1883 hotel, one of the oldest in the city. Regulars favor the place because the high ceilings in the main building make it feel light and airy. This comfortable hotel, just off the Piazza dei Signori, has a great location. It’s also a true bargain—rates stay the same throughout the year, with no high-season price hikes. Breakfast is available for €5. Pros: tastefully furnished rooms; friendly staff; central location. Cons: no air-conditioning (although ceiling fans minimize the need for it); no one to help with baggage. TripAdvisor: “helpful staff,” “convenience is the best asset,” “beautiful Renaissance charm.” | Rooms from: €90 | Contrà Do Rode 24 | 36100 | 0444/321886 | www.hotelduemori.com | 53 rooms | Closed 1st 2 wks of Aug. and 2 wks in late Dec. | Multiple meal plans.

Nightlife and the Arts

Teatro Olimpico.
Vicenza hosts a jazz festival in May and classical concerts in June, with performances throughout the city. Any event you can catch at Teatro Olimpico is especially worth attending. The theater also hosts classical drama performances in September; even if your Italian is dismal, it can be thrilling to see a performance in Palladio’s magnificent theater. | Piazza Matteotti | 36100 | 0444/222800 | www.comune.vicenza.it.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents