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Exploring Verona | Where to Eat in Verona | Where to Stay in Verona | Opera | Shopping

On the banks of the fast-flowing River Adige, enchanting Verona has timeless monuments, a picturesque town center, and a romantic reputation as the setting (in fiction only) of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. With its lively Venetian air and proximity to Lake Garda, it attracts hordes of tourists, especially Germans and Austrian, and tourism peaks during summer’s renowned season of open-air opera in the arena.

On the banks of the fast-flowing River Adige, enchanting Verona, 60 km (37 miles) west of Vicenza, has timeless monuments, a picturesque town center, and a romantic reputation as the setting of Shakespeare’s (fictional) Romeo and Juliet. With its lively Venetian air and proximity to Lake Garda, it attracts hordes of tourists, especially Germans and Austrians. Tourism peaks during summer’s renowned season of open-air opera in the arena and during spring’s Vinitaly (Fiera di Verona, Viale del Lavoro 8 | 045/829817 | www.vinitaly.com), one of the world’s most important wine expos. For five days you can sample the wines of more than 3,000 wineries from dozens of countries.

Verona grew to power and prosperity within the Roman Empire as a result of its key commercial and military position in northern Italy. With its Roman arena, theater, and city gates, it has the most significant monuments of Roman antiquity north of Rome. After the fall of the empire, the city continued to flourish under the guidance of barbarian kings such as Theodoric, Alboin, Pepin, and Berenger I, reaching its cultural and artistic peak in the 13th and 14th centuries under the della Scala (Scaligero) dynasty. (Look for the scala, or ladder, emblem all over town.) In 1404 Verona traded its independence for security and placed itself under the control of Venice. (The other recurring architectural motif is the lion of Saint Mark, a symbol of Venetian rule.)

Getting Here

Verona is midway between Venice and Milan. It’s served by a small airport, Aeroporto Valerio Catullo, which accommodates domestic and European flights; however, many travelers still prefer to fly into Venice or Milan and drive or take the train to Verona. Several trains per hour depart from any point on the Milan–Venice line. By car, from the east or west, take the Autostrada Trieste–Torino A4/E70 to the SS12 and follow it north into town. From the north or south, take the Autostrada del Brennero A22/E45 to the SR11 East (initially, called the Strada Bresciana) directly into town.

Visitor Information

Verona Tourism Office.
Piazza Brà, Via Degli Alpini 9 | 37121 | 045/8068680 | www.tourism.verona.it | Porta Nuova railway station | 37122 | 045/8000861.

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Exploring Verona

If you’re going to visit more than one or two sights, it’s worthwhile to purchase a VeronaCard, available at museums, churches, and tobacconists for €10 (one day) or €15 (three days). It buys a single admission to most of the city’s significant museums and churches, plus you can ride free on city buses. If you’re mostly interested in churches, a €5 Chiese Vive Card is sold at Verona’s major houses of worship and gains you entry to the Duomo, San Fermo Maggiore, San Zeno Maggiore, Sant’Anastasia, and San Lorenzo. Note that Verona’s churches strictly enforce their dress code: no sleeveless shirts, shorts, or short skirts.

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Ancient City Gates/Triumphal Arch.
In addition to ancient Verona’s famous arena and Roman theater, two of its city gates and a beautiful triumphal arch have survived. These graceful and elegant portals give us an idea of the high aesthetic standards of the time. The oldest, the Porta dei Leoni (on Via Leoni, just a few steps from Piazza delle Erbe), dates from the 1st century BC, but its original earth-and-brick structure was sheathed in local marble during early Imperial times. The Porta dei Borsari was, as its elegant decoration suggests, the main entrance to ancient Verona, and, in its present state, dates from the 1st century AD. It’s at the beginning of Corso Porta Borsari, just a few steps from the opposite side of Piazza della Erbe. Continuing down Corso Cavour, which starts on the other (front) side of Porta dei Borsari, you can find the beautiful Arco dei Gavi, which is simpler and less imposing, but also more graceful, than the triumphal arches in Rome. It was built in the 1st century AD by the architect Lucius Vitruvius Cerdo to celebrate the accomplishments of the patrician Gavia family. It was highly esteemed by several Renaissance architects, including Palladio.

Fodor’s Choice | Arena di Verona.
Only Rome’s Colosseum and Capua’s arena would dwarf this amphitheater. Though four arches are all that remain of the arena’s outer arcade, the main structure is complete. It dates from the early Imperial age, and was used for gymnastic competitions, choreographed sacrificial rites, and games involving hunts, fights, battles, and wild animals. Unlike at Rome’s Colosseum, there is no evidence that Christians were ever put to death here. Today you can visit the arena year-round; in summer you can join up to 16,000 people packing the stands for one of Verona’s spectacular opera productions. Even those who aren’t crazy about opera can sit in the stands and enjoy Italians enjoying themselves—including, at times, singing along with their favorite hits. Note that the open hours are sometimes reduced in the late fall and winter. | Arena di Verona, Piazza Brà 5 | 37100 | 045/596517 | www.arena.it | €6, free with Chiese Vive and VeronaCard | 8:30–5 on days when operas are performed; otherwise 8:30–7:30.

Castelvecchio.
This crenellated, russet brick building with massive walls, towers, turrets, and a vast courtyard was built for Cangrande II della Scala in 1354. It presides over a street lined with attractive old buildings and palaces of the nobility. Only by going inside the Museo di Castelvecchio can you really appreciate this massive castle complex with its vaulted halls. You also get a look at a significant collection of Venetian art, medieval weapons, and jewelry. The interior of the castle was restored and redesigned as a museum between 1958 and 1975 by the notable architect Carlo Scarpa. Behind the castle is the Ponte Scaligero (1355), which spans the River Adige. | Corso Castelvecchio 2 | 37100 | 045/8062611 | €6, free with Chiese Vive and VeronaCard | Mon. 1:30–7:30, Tues.–Sun. 8:30–7:30. Last entry 6:45.

Duomo.
The present church was begun in the 12th century in the Romanesque style; its later additions are mostly Gothic. On pilasters guarding the main entrance are 12th-century carvings thought to represent Oliver and Roland, two of Charlemagne’s knights and heroes of several medieval epic poems. Inside, Titian’s Assumption (1532) graces the first chapel on the left. | Via Duomo | 37100 | 045/592813 | www.chieseverona.it | €2.50, free with Chiese Vive and VeronaCard | Weekdays 10–1 and 1:30–5; Sat. 1:30–4; Sun. and holidays 1:30–5.

Galleria d’Arte Moderna.
The handsome Palazzo Forti, where Napoléon once stayed, frequently hosts exhibitions of significant 20th-century artists; past shows have included the works of Marcel Duchamp (1887–1968) and Andy Warhol (1928–87). | Via Forti 1, entrance Vicolo Volto Due Mori 4 | 045/8001903 | www.palazzoforti.it | Varies with exhibition | Varies with exhibition.

Piazza delle Erbe.
Frescoed buildings surround this beautiful medieval square, where a busy Roman forum once stood. During the week it’s still bustling, as vendors hawk produce and trinkets, much as they have been doing for generations. Relax at one of the cafés and take in the lively scene. | Piazza delle Erbe.

Fodor’s Choice | San Zeno Maggiore.
San Zeno is one of Italy’s finest Romanesque churches. The rose window by the 13th-century sculptor Brioloto represents a wheel of fortune, with six of the spokes formed by statues depicting the rising and falling fortunes of mankind. The 12th-century porch is the work of Maestro Niccolò. Eighteen 12th-century marble reliefs flanking the porch by Niccolò and Maestro Guglielmo depict scenes from the Old and New Testaments and scenes from the legend of Theodoric. The bronze doors are from the 11th and 12th centuries; some were probably imported from Saxony and some are from Veronese workshops. They combine allegorical representations with scenes from the lives of saints. Inside, look for the 12th-century statue of San Zeno to the left of the main altar. In modern times it has been dubbed the “Laughing San Zeno” because of a misinterpretation of its conventional Romanesque grin. A justly famous Madonna and Saints triptych by Andrea Mantegna (1431–1506) hangs over the main altar, and a peaceful cloister (1120–38) lies to the left of the nave. The detached bell tower was begun in 1045, before the construction of much of the present church, and finished in 1173. | Piazza San Zeno | 37100 | 045/592813 | www.chieseverona.it | €2.50, free with Chiese Vive and VeronaCard | Nov.–Feb., Tues.–Sat. 10–1 and 1:30–5, Sun. noon–5; Mar.–Oct., Mon.–Sat. 8:30–6, Sun. noon–6.

Sant’Anastasia.
Verona’s largest church, begun in 1290 but only consecrated in 1471, is a fine example of Gothic brickwork and has a grand doorway with elaborately carved biblical scenes. The main reason for visiting this church, however, is St. George and the Princess (dated 1434, but perhaps earlier) by Pisanello (1377–1455) above the Pellegrini Chapel off the main altar. As you come in, look also for the gobbi (hunchbacks) supporting holy-water stoups. | Vicolo Sotto Riva 4 | 37100 | 045/592813 | www.chieseverona.it | €2.50, free with Chiese Vive and VeronaCard | Nov.–Feb., Tues.–Sat. 10–1 and 1:30–5, Sun. 1–5; Mar.–Oct., Mon.–Sat. 9–6, Sun. 1–6.

Worth Noting

Arche Scaligere.
On a little square adjacent to the Piazza dei Signori are the fantastically sculpted Gothic tombs of the della Scalas, who ruled Verona during the late Middle Ages. The 19th-century English traveler and critic John Ruskin described the tombs as graceful places where people who have fallen asleep live. The tomb of Cangrande I (1291–1329) hangs over the portal of the adjacent church and is the work of the Maestro di Sant’Anastasia. The tomb of Mastino II, begun in 1345, has an elaborate baldachin, originally painted and gilded, and is surrounded by an iron grillwork fence and topped by an equestrian statue. The latest and most elaborate tomb is that of Cansignorio (1375), the work principally of Bonino di Campione. The major tombs are all visible from the street. | adjacent to Piazza dei Signori.

Loggia del Consiglio.
This graceful structure on the north flank of the Piazza dei Signori was finished in 1492 and built to house city council meetings. Although the city was already under Venetian rule, Verona still had a certain degree of autonomy, which was expressed by the splendor of the loggia. Very strangely for a Renaissance building of this quality, its architect remains unknown, but it is undoubtedly the finest surviving example of late-15th-century architecture in Verona. | Piazza dei Signori | 37100 | Closed to the public.

Museo Archeologico and Teatro Romano.
Housed in what was a 15th-century monastery, the museum’s collections were formed largely out of the donated collections of Veronese citizens proud of their city’s classical past. Though there are few blockbusters here, there are some very noteworthy pieces (especially among the bronzes), and it is interesting to see what cultured Veronese from the 17th to 19th century collected. The museum sits high above the Teatro Romano, ancient Verona’s theater, dating from the 1st century AD. | Rigaste del Redentore 2 | 37100 | 045/8000360 | €4.50, free with Chiese Vive and VeronaCard | Mon. 1:30–7:30, Tues.–Sun. 8:30–7:30. Last entry 6:45.

Palazzo degli Scaligeri (Palazzo di Cangrande).
The della Scalas ruled Verona from this stronghold built at the end of the 13th century by Cangrande I. At that time Verona controlled the mainland Veneto as far as Treviso and Lombardy to Mantua and Brescia. The portal facing the Piazza dei Signori was added in 1533 by the accomplished Renaissance architect Michele Sanmicheli. You have to admire the palazzo from the outside, as it’s not open to the public. | Piazza dei Signori | 37121 | Closed to the public.

Palazzo della Ragione.
An elegant 15th-century pink marble staircase leads up from the mercato vecchio (old market) courtyard to the magistrates’ chambers in the 12th-century palace, built at the intersection of the main streets of the ancient Roman city. The building’s interior, almost completely renovated since then, is now used for art exhibitions. You can get the highest view in town from atop the attached 270-foot-tall, romanesque Torre dei Lamberti. About 50 years after a lightning strike in 1403 knocked its top off, it was rebuilt and extended to its current height. | Piazza dei Signori | 37121 | 045/8032726 | Tower admission €6, free with Chiese Vive and VeronaCard | Tower: Tues.–Sun. 9:30–7:30, Mon. 1:45–7:30.

Tomba di Giulietta.
If you want to believe that Juliet is buried in this old chapel near the river, you’ll have to put aside the fact that the structure is a former orphanage and Franciscan monastery. In the crypt there’s an open sarcophagus labeled as Juliet’s tomb; by conducting civil weddings in the chapel, the city of Verona perpetuates the fantasy that Romeo and Juliet were married here. | Via del Pontiere 35 | 045/8000361 | €3 or free with VeronaCard | Mon. 1:30–7:30, Tues.–Sun. 8:30–7:30; last entry 6:45.

Where to Eat in Verona

Antica Osteria al Duomo.
$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | This friendly side-street eatery, lined with old wood paneling and decked out with musical instruments, serves Veronese food to a Veronese crowd; they come for the local wine (€1 to €3 per glass) and to savor excellent versions of local dishes like bigoli con sugo di asino (thick whole-wheat spaghetti with sauce made from donkey meat) and pastissada con polenta (horse-meat stew with polenta). Don’t be put off by the dishes featuring unconventional meats; they’re tender and delicious, and this is probably the best place in town to sample them. First-rate Veronese home cooking comes at very reasonable prices here and is served by helpful, efficient staff. This is a popular place, so arrive early. Reservations are not possible on weekends. | Average cost: €25 | Via Duomo 7/A | 37121 | 045/8007333 | Closed Sun. (except in Dec. and during wine fair).

Dodici Apostoli.
$$$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | In a city where many high-end restaurants tend toward nouvelle cuisine, this highly esteemed restaurant is an exceptional place to enjoy classic dishes made with elegant variations on traditional recipes. Near Piazza delle Erbe, it stands on the foundations of a Roman temple. Specialties include gnocchi di zucca e ricotta (with squash and ricotta cheese) and vitello alla Lessinia (veal with mushrooms, cheese, and truffles) and a signature pasta e fagioli. | Average cost: €70 | Vicolo Corticella San Marco 3 | 37121 | 045/596999 | www.12apostoli.it | Closed Mon., Jan. 1–10, and June 15–30. No dinner Sun.

Il Desco.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | Cucina dell’anima, meaning food of the soul, is how Chef Elia Rizzo describes his cuisine. True to Italian culinary traditions, his technique preserves natural flavors through quick cooking and limiting the number of ingredients. But there is little tradition in the inventive and even daring way in which he combines those few ingredients in dishes such as duck breast with grappa, grapes, and eggplant puree, or beef cheeks with goose liver and caramelized pears. For a spendy gastronomic adventure, order the tasting menu, which includes appetizers, two first courses, two second courses, and dessert. The decor is elegant, if overdone, with tapestries, paintings, and an impressive 16th-century lacunar ceiling. The service is efficient, if not exactly friendly. | Average cost: €65 | Via Dietro San Sebastiano 7 | 37100 | 045/595358 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. (open for dinner Mon. in July, Aug., and Dec.) and 2 wks in June.

Ostaria La Fontanina.
$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | Veronese go to La Fontanina to enjoy a sumptuous meal under vine-covered balconies on a quiet street in one of the oldest sections of town. The Tapparini family takes great pride in the kitchen’s modern versions of traditional dishes. Particularly successful is the risotto made with Verona’s famed sweet wine, riciotto di Soave, accompanied with a slice of foie gras. There are also such standards as risotto al Amarone made with Verona’s treasured red wine, pastissada (horse-meat stew) with polenta, and an excellent version of baccalà. There are several reasonably priced set menus. | Average cost: €60 | Portichiette fontanelle S. Stefano 3 | 37129 | 045/913305 | www.ristorantelafontanina.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., 1 wk in Jan., and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch Mon.

Where to Stay in Verona

Book hotels months in advance for spring’s Vinitaly, usually the second week in April, and for opera season. Verona hotels are also very busy during the January, May, and September gold fairs in neighboring Vicenza. Hotels jack up prices considerably at all these times.

Hotel Accademia.
$$$ | HOTEL | The columns and arches of Hotel Accademia’s stately facade are a good indication of what you can discover inside: an elegant, full-service historic hotel in the center of old Verona. Despite the location, the traditionally furnished rooms are reasonably quiet. The staff is friendly and helpful. The buffet breakfast, included in the rate, is sumptuous. Pros: central location; old-world charm; up-to-date services. Cons: expensive parking; few standard rooms; prices go way up during the summer opera season and trade fairs. TripAdvisor: “friendly staff,” “lovely hotel in excellent location,” “good breakfast.” | Rooms from: €225 | Via Scala 12 | 37121 | 045/596222 | www.accademiavr.it | 93 rooms | Breakfast.

Hotel Victoria.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Busy business executives and tourists seeking a bit of pampering frequent this full-service hotel located near the Piazza delle Erbe. The Victoria offers a modern, sleek entryway and traditionally decorated, comfortable rooms. As is the case with many Verona hotels, rates vary greatly depending on the season. Standard rooms are attractive and well proportioned, but the “superior” rooms are really quite lavish (some have hydromassage showers). Pros: quiet and tasteful rooms; central location; good business center. Cons: no views; expensive parking (and rates); staff not particularly helpful. TripAdvisor: “unique and exceptional,” “pleasant hotel,” “beautiful building.” | Rooms from: €306 | Via Adua 8 | 37121 | 045/5905664 | www.hotelvictoria.it | 72 rooms | No meals.

Torcolo.
$ | B&B/INN | In addition to a central location close to Piazza Brà, you can also count on this budget hotel for a warm welcome from the owners and courteous, helpful service. The pleasant rooms are decorated tastefully with late-19th-century furniture. The large breakfast, which costs a fair amount extra, is served on the front terrace in summer. Note that during opera season and during the wine fair, the price for a double jumps up by about 50%. Pros: nice rooms; staff gives reliable advice. Cons: some street noise; no help with baggage; pricey parking; no internet. TripAdvisor: “well positioned and charming people,” “good and simple,” “excellent find.” | Rooms from: €95 | Vicolo Listone 3 | 37121 | 045/8007512 | www.hoteltorcolo.it | 19 rooms | Closed Dec. 21–27 and 2 wks in Jan. and Feb. | Multiple meal plans.

Opera

Fodor’s Choice | Arena di Verona.
Milan’s La Scala, Venice’s La Fenice, and Parma’s Teatro Regio offer performances more likely to satisfy serious opera fans, but none offers a greater spectacle than the Arena di Verona. Many Italian opera lovers claim their enthusiasm was initiated when they were taken as children to a production at the arena. During its summer season (July–September) audiences of as many as 16,000 sit on the original stone terraces or in modern cushioned stalls. Most of the operas presented are the big, splashy ones, like Aïda or Turandot, which demand huge choruses, lots of color and movement, and, if possible, camels, horses, or elephants. Order tickets by phone or online: if you book a spot on the cheaper terraces, be sure to take or rent a cushion—four hours on a 2,000-year-old stone bench can be an ordeal. | Box office, Via Dietro Anfiteatro 6/b | 37100 | 045/8005151 | www.arena.it | Tickets start at €21 | Box office Sept.–June 20, weekdays 9–noon and 3:15–5:45, Sat. 9–noon; June 21–Aug., performance days 10–9, non-performance days 10–5:45.

Shopping

Food and Wine

Salumeria Albertini.
Salumeria Albertini is Verona’s oldest delicatessen: look for the prosciutto and salami hanging outside. | Corso S. Anastasia 41 | 37100 | 045/8031074.

Vinitaly.
The famous international wine show Vinitaly takes place for five days in early April, making Verona the “world capital of quality wines” for the week, attracting more than 3,000 exhibitors from dozens of countries. The show costs €35 per day and runs daily 9–6:30. | Fiera di Verona, Viale del Lavoro 8 | 045/8298170 | www.vinitaly.com.

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