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Piacenza | Busseto | Parma | Modena
The Via Emilia runs through Emilia’s heart in a straight shot from medieval Piacenza, 67 km (42 miles) southeast of Milan, through Bologna, and ultimately to Romagna and the Adriatic Coast. On the way you encounter many of Italy’s cultural riches—from the culinary and artistic treasures of Parma to the birthplace and home of Giuseppe Verdi. Take time to veer into the countryside, with its ramshackle farmhouses and 800-year-old abbeys; to stop for a taste of prosciutto; and to detour north to the mist-shrouded tangle of streets that make up Ferrara’s old Jewish ghetto.
Piacenza
67 km (42 miles) southeast of Milan, 150 km (93 miles) northwest of Bologna.
Getting Here
Regional trains run often from Milan to Piacenza and take a little more than an hour; Eurostar service cuts the travel time in half, and Alta Velocità trains make it from Milan to Bologna in an hour. The Intercity from Bologna to Piacenza takes about 1½ hours and closer to two hours on regional trains. Both have frequent service. Piacenza is easily accessible by car via the A1, either from Milan or from Bologna. If you’re coming from Milan, take the Piacenza Nord exit; from Bologna, the Piacenza Est exit.
Emilia-Romagna through the Ages
Ancient History. Emilia-Romagna owes its beginnings to a road. In 187 BC the Romans built the Via Aemilia—a long road running northwest from the Adriatic port of Rimini to the central garrison town of Piacenza—and it was along this central spine that the primary towns of the region developed.
Despite the unifying factor of what came to be known as the Via Emilia, this section of Italy has had a fragmented history. Its eastern part, roughly the area from Faenza to the coast (known as Romagna), first looked to the Byzantine east and then to Rome for art, political power, and, some say, national character. The western part, from Bologna to Piacenza (Emilia), looked more to the north with its practice of self-government and dissent.
Bologna was founded by the Etruscans and eventually came under the influence of the Roman Empire. The Romans established a garrison here, renaming the old Etruscan settlement Bononia. It was after the fall of Rome that the region began its fragmentation. Romagna, centered in Ravenna, was ruled from Constantinople. Ravenna eventually became the capital of the empire in the west in the 5th century, passing to papal control in the 8th century. Even today, the city is still filled with reminders of two centuries of Byzantine rule.
Family Ties. The other cities of the region, from the Middle Ages on, became the fiefdoms of important noble families—the Este in Ferrara and Modena, the Pallavicini in Piacenza, and the Bentivoglio in Bologna. Today all these cities bear the marks of their noble patrons. When in the 16th century the papacy managed to exert its power over the entire area, some of these cities were divided among the papal families—hence the stamp of the Farnese family on Parma and Piacenza.
A Leftward Tilt. Bologna and Emilia-Romagna have established a robust tradition of rebellion and dissent. The Italian socialist movement was born in the region, as was Benito Mussolini. In keeping with the political climate of his home state, he was a firebrand socialist during the early part of his career. Despite having Mussolini as a native son, Emilia-Romagna didn’t take to fascism: it was here that the antifascist resistance was born, and during World War II the region suffered terribly at the hands of the fascists and the Nazis.
Visitor Information
Piacenza Tourism Office.
Piazza Cavalli 7 | 29100 | 0523/329324 | www.comune.piacenza.it.
Exploring Piacenza
Piacenza has always been associated with industry and commerce. Its position on the Po River has made it an important inland port since the earliest times; the Etruscans, and then the Romans, had thriving settlements here. As you approach the city today you could be forgiven for thinking that it holds little of interest. Piacenza is surrounded by ugly industrial suburbs (with particularly unlovely concrete factories and a power station), but if you forge ahead you’ll discover a delightfully preserved medieval center and an unusually clean city. Its prosperity is evident in the great shopping to be had along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.
Duomo.
Attached like a sinister balcony to the bell tower of Piacenza’s 12th-century Duomo is a gabbia (iron cage), where miscreants were incarcerated naked and subjected to the scorn of the crowd in the marketplace below. Inside the cathedral, less evocative but equally impressive medieval stonework decorates the pillars and the crypt, and there are extravagant frescoes in the dome of the cupola begun by Morazzone (1573–1626). Guercino (1591–1666)
completed them upon Morazzone’s death. The Duomo can be reached by following Via XX Settembre from Piazza dei Cavalli. | Piazza Duomo | 29100 | 0523/335154 | Daily 7:30–noon and 4–7.
Musei di Palazzo Farnese.
The Musei di Palazzo Farnese, the city-owned museum of Piacenzan art and antiquities, is housed in the vast Palazzo Farnese. The ruling family had commissioned a monumental palace, but construction, begun in 1558, was never completed as planned. The highlight of the museum’s rather eclectic collection is the tiny 2nd-century BC Etruscan Fegato di Piacenza, a bronze tablet shaped like a fegato (liver), with the symbols of the gods of good and ill fortune marked on it. By comparing this master “liver” with one taken from the body of a freshly-slaughtered sacrifice, priests predicted the future. The collection also contains Botticelli’s recently restored Madonna and Child with St. John the Baptist. Because it’s under glass, you have the rare opportunity of getting very close to the piece to admire the artist’s brushwork.
Reserve ahead for free 1½-hour guided tours. | Piazza Cittadella 29 | 29100 | 0523/492661 | www.musei.piacenza.it | €6 | Museum: Tues.–Thurs. 9–1, Fri.–Sun. 9–1 and 3–6. Free tours (in Italian): Tues.–Thurs. at 10, Fri. at 10 and 3:30, weekends at 9:30, 11, 3, and
4:30.
Piazza dei Cavalli (Square of the Horses).
The hub of the city is the Piazza dei Cavalli. The flamboyant equestrian statues from which the piazza takes its name are depictions of Ranuccio Farnese (1569–1622) and, on the left, his father, Alessandro (1545–92). The latter was a beloved ruler, enlightened and fair; Ranuccio, his successor, less so. Both statues are the work of Francesco Mochi, a master Baroque
sculptor. Dominating the square is the massive 13th-century Palazzo Pubblico, also known as il Gotico. This two-tone, marble-and-brick, turreted and crenellated building was the seat of town government before Piacenza fell under the iron fists of the ruling Pallavicini and Farnese families.
Where to Eat in Piacenza
Antica Osteria del Teatro.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | A simple 15th-century palazzo on a lovely little square in the center of town gives no hint to what awaits inside. Warm ochre-sponged walls adorned with contemporary prints provide the backdrop for some serious food. Chef Filippo Chiappini Dattilo has combined his love of Italian dishes with French influences, creating a marvelous menu. The local specialty, culatello, is served with
exquisite porcini sott’olio (mushrooms in olive oil). Another traditional dish, pisarei e faso (Piacentinian for pasta fagioli), is livened up with shrimp and squid. The colorful risotto mantecato con granchio reale (risotto with crab) arrives redolent of mandarin, with which it has been generously seasoned. Excellent service and an equally excellent wine list make
dining here a true pleasure. | Average cost: €80 | Via Verdi 16 | 29100 | 0523/323777 | www.anticaosteriadelteatro.it | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon., Jan. 1–10, and Aug. 1–25.
Busseto
30 km (19 miles) southeast of Piacenza, 25 km (16 miles) southeast of Cremona in Lombardy.
Getting Here
If you’re coming by car from Parma, drive along the A1/E35 and follow signs for the A15 in the direction of Milan/La Spezia. Choose the exit in the direction of Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme, following signs to the SP12, which connects to the SS9W. At Fidenza, take the SS588 heading north, which will take you into Busseto. If you’re without a car, you’ll have to take a bus from Parma, as there’s no train service.
Visitor Information
Busseto Tourism Office.
Piazza G. Verdi 10 | 43011 | 0524/92487 | www.bussetolive.com.
Exploring Busseto
Villa Pallavicino.
Busseto’s main claim to fame is its native son, master composer Giuseppe Verdi (1813–1901). The 15th-century Villa Pallavicino is where Verdi worked and lived with his mistress (and later wife) Giuseppina Strepponi. Recently renovated, it displays the maestro’s piano, scores, composition books, and walking sticks. Entry is by reservation only. | Via Provesi 35 | 43011 | 0524/931002 |
www.museogiuseppeverdi.it | Tues.–Sun. 10–7:30.
Teatro Verdi.
In the center of Busseto is the lovely Teatro Verdi, dedicated, as you might expect, to the works of the hamlet’s famous son. Guided tours of the well-preserved, ornate 19th-century-style theater are offered every half hour. Check with the Busseto tourist office for the performance schedule. | Piazza G. Verdi 10 | 43011 | 0524/92487 | Tours €4 | Tours: Nov.–Feb. 9:30–1 and 2:30–5:30; Mar.–Oct. Tues.–Sun. 9:30–1 and 3–6:30.
Villa Sant’Agata.
For Verdi lovers, Villa Sant’Agata (also known as Villa Verdi) is a veritable shrine. It’s the grand country home Verdi built for himself in 1849—and the place where some of his greatest works were composed. Visits are by tour only, and you have to reserve a few days in advance by phone or online. | Via Verdi 22, | Sant’Agata Villanova sull’Arda | 43000 | 4 km (2½ miles)
north of Busseto on SS588, toward Cremona | 0523/830000 | www.villaverdi.org | Tours €9 | Tours: Weekdays 10–3:45, weekends 9:30–5.
Parma
40 km (25 miles) southeast of Busseto, 97 km (60 miles) northwest of Bologna.
Getting Here
Train service, via Eurostar, Intercity, and Regionale trains, runs frequently from Milan and Bologna. It takes a little over an hour from Milan and slightly under an hour from Bologna. By car, Parma is just off the A1 Autostrada, halfway between Bologna and Piacenza.
Visitor Information
Parma Tourism Office.
Via Melloni 1/a | 43100 | 0521/218889 | www.turismo.comune.parma.it.
Exploring Parma
Parma stands on the banks of a tributary of the Po River. Despite damage during World War II, much of the stately historic center seems untouched by modern times. This is a prosperous city, and it shows in its well-dressed residents, clean streets, and immaculate piazzas.
Bursting with gustatory delights, Parma draws crowds for its sublime cured pork product, prosciutto crudo di Parma (known locally simply as “prosciutto crudo”). The pale-yellow Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese produced here and in nearby Reggio Emilia is the original—and best—of a class known around the world as Parmesan.
Almost every major European power has had a hand in ruling Parma at one time or another. The Romans founded the city—then little more than a garrison on the Via Emilia—after which a succession of feudal lords held sway. In the 16th century came the ever-conniving Farnese family, which died out in 1731 upon the death of Antonio Farnese. It then went to the Spanish, and fell into French hands in 1796. In 1805 Marie-Louise (better known to the parmigiani as Maria Luigia), the wife of Napoleon, took command of the city. She was a much-beloved figure in her adopted town until her death in 1847.
Piazza Garibaldi.
Piazza Garibaldi is the heart of Parma. Here’s where people gather to pass the time of day, start their passeggiata (evening stroll), or simply hang out. Strada Cavour, leading off the piazza, is Parma’s prime shopping street: it’s also crammed with wine bars teeming with locals. This square and nearby Piazza del Duomo make up one of the loveliest historic centers in Italy. So it’s a perfect place to stop for a snack or light lunch.
Santa Maria della Steccata.
The delightful 16th-century church of Santa Maria della Steccata has one of Parma’s most recognizable domes, as well as a wonderful decorative fresco in the dome’s large arch by Francesco Mazzola, better known as Parmigianino (1503–40). He took so long to complete it that his patrons briefly imprisoned him for breach of contract. | Piazza Steccata 9,
off Via Dante near Piazza Garibaldi | 43100 | 0521/234937 | www.santuari.it/steccata | Daily 9–noon and 3–6.
Piazza del Duomo.
The spacious cobblestone Piazza del Duomo contains the cathedral and the Battistero, plus the Palazzo del Vescovado (Bishop’s Palace). Behind the Duomo is the baroque church of San Giovanni.
Duomo.
The magnificent 12th-century Duomo has two vigilant stone lions standing guard beside the main door. The arch of the entrance is decorated with a delicate frieze of figures representing the months of the year, a motif repeated inside the baptistery. Some of the church’s original artwork still survives, notably the simple yet evocative Descent from the Cross: a carving in the right transept by sculptor and architect Benedetto Antelami (active
1178–1230), whose masterwork is this cathedral’s baptistery. It’s an odd juxtaposition to turn from his austere work to the exuberant fresco in the dome, the Assumption of the Virgin by Antonio Allegri, better known to us as Correggio (1494–1534). The fresco was not well received when it was unveiled in 1530. “A mess of frogs’ legs,” the bishop of Parma is said to have called it. Today Correggio is acclaimed as one of the leading masters of
mannerist painting. It’s best viewed when the sun’s strong, as this building is not particularly well lit. | Piazza del Duomo | 43100 | 0521/235886 | Daily 7:30–12:30 and 3–7.
Battistero (Baptistery).
The impressive Battistero has a simple pink-stone Romanesque exterior and an uplifting Gothic interior. Its doors are richly decorated with figures, animals, and flowers. Inside, the building is adorned with stucco figures (probably carved by Antelami) showing the months and seasons. Early 14th-century frescoes depicting scenes from the life of Christ grace the walls. | Piazza del Duomo | 43100 | No phone | €6 | Daily 9–12:30 and 3–6:30.
San Giovanni Evangelista.
Beyond the elaborate Baroque facade of San Giovanni Evangelista, the Renaissance interior reveals several works by Correggio: St. John the Evangelist (left transept) is considered among his finest. Also in this church (in the second and fourth chapels on the left) are works by Parmigianino, a contemporary of Correggio’s. Once seen, Parmigianino’s long-necked Madonnas are never forgotten. | Piazzale San Giovanni 1,
Piazza del Duomo | 43100 | 0521/235311 | Daily 8–noon and 3–5:45.
Camera di San Paolo.
The Camera di San Paolo was the reception room for the erudite abbess Giovanna da Piacenza. In 1519 she hired Correggio to provide its decoration. Mythological scenes depict glorious frescoes of the Triumphs of the Goddess Diana, the Three Graces, and the Three Fates. | Via Melloni 15,
off Strada Garibaldi, near Piazza Pilotta | 43100 | 0521/233309 | €2 | Tues.–Sun. 8:30–2.
Musei del Cibo (Food Museums).
Three museums outside Parma showcase the city and the region’s most famous foods. The Musei del Cibo, as they’re collectively known, offer tastings, a bit of history, and a tour through the process of making these specialties. None is more than a 20-minute drive or taxi ride from the city. It’s a good idea to call before making the trek, though, as opening hours are limited. |
www.museidelcibo.it.
Museo del Prosciutto di Parma.
The Museo del Prosciutto di Parma gives you an in-depth look at Italy’s most famous cured pork product. | Via Bocchialini, Langhirano | 43100 | 0521/864324 | €4, plus €3 for tasting | Mar.–Oct. 8 weekends 10–6 by reservation only.
Museo del Parmigiano Reggiano.
The Museo del Parmigiano Reggiano focuses on the trademark crumbly cheese. | 32 km (20 miles) northwest of Parma, | Soragna | 43100 | 0524/596129 | €5 | Mar.–Oct., Fri.–Sun. 10–1 and 3–6, by reservation only.
Museo del Salame.
The Museo del Salame is all about cured meats. | Castello di Felino, 23 km (14 miles) southwest of Parma | 43100 | 0521/431809 | €5 | weekends 10–4 by reservation only.
Where to Eat in Parma
Enoteca Antica Osteria Fontana.
$ | WINE BAR | Gregarious locals flock to this old-school enoteca (wine bar). The decor may be minimal, with yellow walls and wooden tables, but the wine list and sandwich menu are substantial. You can feast on a selection of tartine (little bread squares with creative toppings) or chow down on a grilled panino—the seemingly endless options for the latter include such standards as coppa (a cured pork product), pancetta, and Gorgonzola. Low prices make this a real draw for Parma’s twentysomethings … and everyone else. The two rooms are crammed with people, who manage to spill out into the streets, wine glasses in hand. The enoteca has an enormous collection of wine bottles to go, so you can avoid the madding crowd with takeout. | Average cost: €8 | Strada Farini 24/a,
near Piazza Garibaldi | 43100 | 0521/286037 | Reservations not accepted | Closed Sun. and Mon.
La Filoma.
$$ | EMILIAN | If you want to try Parmesan specialties without breaking the bank, this is the place to go. The dining room evokes the turn of two centuries ago with its high ceilings and damask drapes, though an element of kitsch prevails. The food shines, from the classic anolini in brodo di manzo e cappone (a local variation of tortellini in brodo) to the exquisite guinea fowl stuffed with prosciutto and
Parmesan. Vegetarian options include a fragrant and tasty tortina di zucca con porcini fritti (pumpkin flan with fried porcini mushrooms). Friendly staff and a terrific wine list add to the enjoyment. | Average cost: €35 | Borgo XX Marzo 15 | 43100 | 0521/2061811 | www.lafiloma.it | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. No lunch Wed. Closed weekends July and Aug.
La Greppia.
$$ | EMILIAN | Just down the street from Palazzo Pilotta, this terrific spot offers up some of the best Parmesan cooking in the historic center. Chef Paola Cavazzini’s all-female crew turns out innovative treats like anelli con cavolo nero e mostarda della Paola (small ring-shaped pasta with Tuscan kale and caramelized fruits) and faraona al tartufo nero di Fragno (guinea hen with black
truffle and chestnut puree). Though the dessert tray delivers some stunners, you might want to simply ask for Parmesan cheese, carved from a big wheel, to conclude your meal. Service is personal and friendly, in part because the place is tiny; and the unpretentious surroundings keep the focus on the food. | Average cost: €42 | Via Garibaldi 39/a | 43100 | 0521/233686 | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues., July, and Dec. 23–Jan. 5.
Parizzi Ristorante.
$$$ | EMILIAN | Chef-owner Marco Parizzi is the third-generation cook in this elegant restaurant. His grandfather’s salumeria (delicatessen) evolved over the years into a restaurant serving Parmesan classics. The Piatti Tipici (list of typical dishes) offers an anolini in brodo di gallina e manzo (stuffed pasta in meat broth), redolent with hints of nutmeg,
that shouldn’t be missed. The more contemporary side of the menu allows the chef to indulge in tasty flights of fancy: the petto di anatra caramellato, for one, beautifully pairs the decidedly non-Italian Jerusalem artichoke with caramelized duck breast served with a very Italian type of chicory. The well-priced wine list, culled by Marco’s wife Cristina, has a section of “Rarità” collected by the two elder Parizzi, as
well as a lengthy selection of contemporary wines. | Average cost: €60 | Strada Repubblica 71 | 43100 | 0521/285952 | www.ristoranteparizzi.it | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Aug., and Jan. 8–15.
Where to Stay in Parma
Fodor’s Choice |
Palazzo dalla Rosa Prati.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Vittorio dalla Rosa Prati has converted seven rooms of his family’s 15th-century palace into luxurious, self-catering accommodations in Piazza del Duomo. Each is different, but all have pastel walls, hardwood floors, large beds, small kitchenettes, roomy bathrooms—and amazing views of the Baptistery next door. A few rooms connect, making this spot a good choice for families. Most also have a glorious view of the stunning
piazza just outside. Pros: the hotel has an opera box at Teatro Regio that guests may reserve; Penhaligon’s bath products; continental breakfast can be provided. Cons: staff leaves at 10 pm. TripAdvisor: “just unforgettable,” “magnificent accommodation,” “beautiful room with a view.” | Rooms from: €350 | Strada al Duomo 7 |
43100 | 0521/386429 | www.palazzodallarosaprati.it | 7 rooms.
Modena
56 km (35 miles) southeast of Parma, 38 km (24 miles) northwest of Bologna.
Getting Here
Modena is easily accessible by train, as it’s on the Bologna-Milan line. Trains run frequently, and it’s an easy walk from the station to the centro storico. There’s an Intercity connection from Florence that takes about an hour and a half. By car, Modena is just off the A1 Autostrada, between Bologna and Parma.
Visitor Information
Modena Tourism Office.
Piazza Grande,
Via Scudari 8 | 41100 | 059/2032660 | www.comune.modena.it.
Exploring Modena
Modena is famous for local products: Maserati, Ferrari, and opera star Luciano Pavarotti, who was born near here and buried in his family plot in Montale Rangone in 2007. However, it’s Modena’s heavenly scented balsamic vinegar, aged up to 40 years, that’s probably its greatest achievement. The town has become another Emilian food mecca, with terrific restaurants and salumerie (delicatessens) at every turn. Though extensive modern industrial sprawl surrounds the center, the small historic center is filled with narrow medieval streets, pleasant piazzas, and typical Emilian architecture.
Duomo.
The 12th-century Romanesque Duomo was begun by the architect Lanfredo in 1099 and consecrated in 1184. Medieval sculptures depicting scenes from Genesis adorn the facade, but walk around to the Piazza Grande side as well to see the building’s marvelous arcading. It’s a rare example of a cathedral having more than one principal view. The interior, completely clad in brick, imparts a sober and beautiful feel. An elaborate gallery has scenes of the Passion of Christ carved
by Anselmo da Campione and his assistants circa 1160–80. The tomb of San Geminiano is in the crypt. The white-marble bell tower is known as La Torre Ghirlandina (the Little Garland Tower) because of its distinctive weather vane. | Piazza Grande | 41100 | 059/216078 | www.duomodimodena.it | Daily 6:30–12:30 and 3:30–7.
Palazzo dei Musei.
Modena’s principal museum is housed in the Palazzo dei Musei, a short walk from the Duomo. The collection was assembled in the mid-17th century by Francesco d’Este (1610–58), Duke of Modena, and the Galleria Estense is named in his honor. The gallery also houses the Biblioteca Estense, a huge collection of illuminated manuscripts, of which the best known is the beautifully illustrated Bible of Borso d’Este (1455–61). A map dated 1501 was one of the first in the world to show that Columbus had discovered America. To get here, follow Via Emilia, the old Roman road that runs through the heart of the town, to Via di Sant’Agostino. | Piazza Sant’Agostino 337 | 41100 | 059/4395711 | €4 | Museum: Tues.–Sun. 8:30–7:30.
Gallery: Tues.–Sat. 8:30—7.
Galleria Ferrari.
The Galleria Ferrari, in the suburb of Maranello 17 km (11 miles) south of Modena, has become a pilgrimage site for auto enthusiasts. This museum takes you through the illustrious history of Ferrari, from early 1951 models to the present—the legendary F50 and cars driven by Michael Schumacher in Formula One victories being highlights. You can also take a look at the glamorous life of founder Enzo Ferrari (a re-creation of his office is onsite), and a glance into the
production process. | Via Dino Ferrari, | Maranello | 41033 | 0536/943204 | www.galleria.ferrari.com | €13 | Oct.–Apr., daily 9:30–6; May–Nov., daily 9:30–7.
Consorzio Produttori Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena.
Connoisseurs of balsamic vinegar can do a tasting with the Consorzio Produttori Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. They’ll arrange for you to visit one of their local producers: to set things up, it’s best to contact the Consorzio through their website. | Strada Vaciglio Sud 1085/1 | 44100 | 059/395633 | www.balsamico.it
| Free | By appointment.
Where to Eat in Modena
Aldina.
$ | EMILIAN | On the second floor of a building across from the covered market, steps from the Piazza Grande, this simple, typical trattoria is in the very nerve center of the city. Here you’ll find exemplary preparations of the region’s crown jewels: tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù, and roast meats. Wash it down with Lambrusco, as locals have for ages, and save room for the zuppa inglese (layered sponge
cake with custard), which is terrific. The kitchen also turns out dishes with fantasia, putting a contemporary twist on classics. | Average cost: €18 | Via Albinelli 40 | 44100 | 059/236106 | No credit cards | Closed Sun., and July and Aug. No dinner Mon.–Thurs.
Da Enzo.
$$ | EMILIAN | The Nora-Tassi family has been operating this cheerful and crowded no-frills trattoria since 1950. Enzo and son Giovanni run the front, and Argia, Enzo’s wife, makes all the tasty desserts. It’s packed with Modenesi eager to eat terrific food at relatively inexpensive prices. The tortellini in brodo makes an excellent starter, as does maccheroncini di Enzo (macaroni in a minced veal-prosciutto
ragù). The bollito misto comes with the usual salsa verde and mostarda (a fruit condiment) made in house. Many meats are served al balsamico—and since you’re in the town that gave the world this precious commodity, why not indulge? Wash it down with the local wine, which happens to be a frizzy Lambrusco served slightly chilled. Note that the trattoria is up two flights of stairs. | Average cost:
€24 | Via Coltellini 17 | 44110 | 059/225177 | Closed Mon. and Aug. No dinner Sun.
Ermes.
$ | EMILIAN | Ebullient host Ermes greets you as you walk in and seats you wherever he happens to have room—no matter that you might be put with people you don’t know. It’s part of the fun, as this quasi-communal style of lunching encourages conviviality. In the kitchen, Bruna, Ermes’s wife, turns out splendid versions of cucina casalinga modenesi (home cooking, Modena-style). Ermes recites the short list of primi and secondi, which change daily and arrive promptly. The accompanying wine is local, simple, and cheap. So it’s no wonder this place is favored by everyone from suits to construction workers to students. | Average cost: €15 | Via Ganaceto 89–91 | 44110 | 059/238065 | No credit
cards | Closed Sun. No dinner.
Fodor’s Choice |
Hosteria Giusti.
$$$ | ITALIAN | In the back room of the Salumeria Giusti, established in 1605 and reportedly the world’s oldest deli, you’ll find four tables in a room tastefully done with antique furnishings. You’ll also find some of the best food in Emilia Romagna. The kitchen turns out perfectly executed takes on traditional dishes. The gnocco fritto (fried dough) with salumi (cured meats) arrives
on your table as little clouds of lightly fried dough, topped with pancetta, or prosciutto, among other things. The anolini in brodo (tiny cheese-stuffed pasta in broth) might boast the most fragrant broth in the world—do remember to inhale the aroma before tucking in. If you’re tempted by too many things, plates can often be ordered in half-portions. Just leave room for dessert, especially La Tassina: served in a little
espresso cup, it bursts with chocolate, anise, and egg. The wine list is divine, as is the staff. Reserve well ahead, though, as lunch is the only meal served. | Average cost: €54 | Vicolo Squallore 46 | 44100 | 059/222533 | www.hosteriagiusti.it | Reservations essential |
Closed Sun. and Mon. and Dec.–Jan. 10. No dinner.
Where to Stay in Modena
Hotel Canalgrande.
$$ | HOTEL | Once a ducal palace, the Canalgrande today has a lobby so gilded it’s over the top. Large, airy rooms are appointed with ornate dark-wood and upholstered pieces. The flower-filled garden has a fountain and a pretty terrace where breakfast is served in summer. Pros: significant discounts for solo travelers; cheaper rates if booking online. Cons: caters to business
travelers; feels somewhat impersonal. TripAdvisor: “elegant,” “wonderful restaurant,” “charming hotel with good service.” | Rooms from: €184 | Corso Canalgrande 6 | 41100 | 059/217160 | www.canalgrandehotel.it | 62 rooms, 2 suites |
Breakfast.
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