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Exploring Perugia | Where to Eat in Perugia | Where to Stay in Perugia | Nightlife and the Arts in Perugia | Shopping in Perugia
Perugia is a majestic, handsome, wealthy city, and with its trendy boutiques, refined cafés, and grandiose architecture, it doesn’t try to hide its affluence. A student population of more than 30,000 means that the city is abuzz with activity throughout the year. Umbria Jazz, one of the region’s most important music festivals, attracts music lovers from around the world every July, and Eurochocolate, the international chocolate festival, is an irresistible draw for anyone with a sweet tooth each October.
Getting Here
The best approach to the city is by train. The area around the station doesn’t attest to the rest of Perugia’s elegance, but buses running from the station to Piazza d’Italia, the heart of the old town, are frequent. If you’re in a hurry, take the minimetro, a one-line subway, to Stazione della Cupa. If you’re driving to Perugia and your hotel doesn’t have parking facilities, leave your car in one of the lots close to the center. Electronic displays indicate the location of lots and the number of spaces free. If you park in the Piazza Partigiani, take the escalators that pass through the fascinating subterranean excavations of the Roman foundations of the city and lead to the town center.
Exploring Perugia
Thanks to Perugia’s hilltop position, the medieval city remains almost completely intact. It’s the best-preserved hill town of its size, and few other places in Italy better illustrate the model of the self-contained city-state that so shaped the course of Italian history.
Top Attractions
Collegio del Cambio (Bankers’ Guild Hall).
These elaborate rooms, on the ground floor of the Palazzo dei Priori, served as the meeting hall and chapel of the guild of bankers and money-changers. Most of the frescoes were completed by the most important Perugian painter of the Renaissance, Pietro Vannucci, better known as Perugino. He included a remarkably honest self-portrait on
one of the pilasters. The iconography includes common religious themes, such as the Nativity and the Transfiguration seen on the end walls. On the left wall are female figures representing the virtues, beneath them the heroes and sages of antiquity. On the right wall are figures presumed to have been painted in part by Perugino’s most famous pupil, Raphael. (His hand, experts say, is most apparent in the figure of Fortitude.) The cappella (chapel)
of San Giovanni Battista has frescoes painted by Giannicola di Paolo, another student of Perugino’s. | Corso Vannucci 25 | 06100 | 075/5728599 | €4.50, €5.50 with Collegio della Mercanzia | Mon.–Sat. 9–1 and 2:30–5:30, Sun. 9–1.
Corso Vannucci.
A string of elegantly connected palazzi (palaces) expresses the artistic nature of this city center, the heart of which is concentrated along Corso Vannucci. Stately and broad, this pedestrians-only street runs from Piazza d’Italia to Piazza IV Novembre. Along the way, the entrances to many of Perugia’s side streets might tempt you to wander off and explore. But don’t stray too far as evening falls, when Corso Vannucci fills with Perugians
out for their evening passeggiata, a pleasant predinner stroll that may include a pause for an aperitif at one of the many bars that line the street. | 06100
Fodor’s Choice |
Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria.
The region’s most comprehensive art gallery is housed on the fourth floor of the Palazzo dei Priori. Enhanced by skillfully lighted displays and computers that allow you to focus on the works’ details and background information, the collection includes work by native artists—most notably Pintoricchio (1454–1513) and Perugino (circa 1450–1523)—and others of the Umbrian and Tuscan schools, among them Gentile da Fabriano (1370–1427), Duccio
(circa 1255–1318), Fra Angelico (1387–1455), Fiorenzo di Lorenzo (1445–1525), and Piero della Francesca (1420–92). In addition to paintings, the gallery has frescoes, sculptures, and some superb examples of crucifixes from the 13th and 14th centuries. Some rooms are dedicated to Perugia itself, showing how the medieval city evolved. | Corso Vannucci 19,
Piazza IV Novembre | 06100 | 075/5721009 | www.gallerianazionaleumbria.it | €6.50 | Tues.–Sun. 8:30–7:30; last admission ½ hr before closing.
Palazzo dei Priori (Palace of Priors).
A series of elegant connected buildings, the palazzo serves as Perugia’s city hall and houses three of the city’s museums. The buildings string along Corso Vannucci and wrap around the Piazza IV Novembre, where the original entrance is located. The steps here lead to the Sala dei Notari (Notaries’ Hall). Other entrances lead to the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, the Collegio del Cambio, and the Collegio della Mercanzia. The Sala dei Notari, which dates back to the 13th century and was the original meeting place of the town merchants, had become the seat of the notaries by the second half of the 15th century. Wood beams and an interesting array of frescoes attributed to Maestro di Farneto embellish the room. Coats
of arms and crests line the back and right lateral walls; you can spot some famous figures from Aesop’s Fables on the left wall. The palazzo facade is adorned with symbols of Perugia’s pride and past power: the griffin is the city symbol, and the lion denotes Perugia’s allegiance to the Guelph (or papal) cause. | Piazza IV Novembre,
25 | 06100 | Free | June–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 9–1 and 3–7.
Umbria Through the Ages
The earliest inhabitants of Umbria, the Umbri, were thought by the Romans to be the most ancient inhabitants of Italy. Little is known about them; with the coming of Etruscan culture the tribe fled into the mountains in the eastern portion of the region. The Etruscans, who founded some of the great cities of Umbria, were in turn supplanted by the Romans. Unlike Tuscany and other regions of central Italy, Umbria had few powerful medieval families to exert control over the cities in the Middle Ages—its proximity to Rome ensured that it would always be more or less under papal domination.
In the center of the country, Umbria has for much of its history been a battlefield where armies from north and south clashed. Hannibal destroyed a Roman army on the shores of Lake Trasimeno, and the bloody course of the interminable Guelph–Ghibelline conflict of the Middle Ages was played out here. Dante considered Umbria the most violent place in Italy. Trophies of war still decorate the Palazzo dei Priori in Perugia, and the little town of Gubbio continues a warlike rivalry begun in the Middle Ages—every year it challenges the Tuscan town of Sansepolcro to a crossbow tournament. Today the bowmen shoot at targets, but neither side has forgotten that 500 years ago they were shooting at each other. In spite of—or perhaps because of—this bloodshed, Umbria has produced more than its share of Christian saints. The most famous is Saint Francis, the decidedly pacifist saint whose life shaped the Church of his time. His great shrine at Assisi is visited by hundreds of thousands of pilgrims each year. Saint Clare, his devoted follower, was Umbria-born, as were Saint Benedict, Saint Rita of Cascia, and the patron saint of lovers, Saint Valentine.
Rocca Paolina.
A labyrinth of little streets, alleys, and arches, this underground city was originally part of a fortress. It was built at the behest of Pope Paul III between 1540 and 1543 to confirm papal dominion over the city. Parts of it were destroyed after the end of papal rule, but much still remains. Begin your visit by taking the escalators from Piazza Italia and Via Masi. In summer this is the coolest place in the city. | Piazza Italia | 06100 | €3.50 | Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 4–7:30.
Worth Noting
Duomo.
Severe yet mystical, the Duomo, also called the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, is most famous for being the home of the wedding ring of the Virgin Mary, stolen by the Perugians in 1488 from the nearby town of Chiusi. The ring, kept high up in a red-curtained vault in the chapel immediately to the left of the entrance, is kept under lock—15 locks, to be precise—and key most of the year. It’s shown to the public on July 30 (the day it was brought to Perugia) and the
second-to-last Sunday in January (Mary’s wedding anniversary). The cathedral itself dates from the Middle Ages, and has many additions from the 15th and 16th centuries. The most visually interesting element is the altar to the Madonna of Grace; an elegant fresco on a column at the right of the entrance of the altar depicts La Madonna delle Grazie and is surrounded by prayer benches decorated with handwritten notes to the Holy Mother. Around the
column are small amulets—symbols of gratitude from those whose prayers were answered. There are also elaborately carved choir stalls, executed by Giovanni Battista Bastone in 1520. The altarpiece (1484), an early masterpiece by Luca Signorelli (circa 1441–1523), shows the Madonna with Saint John the Baptist, Saint Onophrius, and Saint Lawrence. Sections of the church may be closed to visitors during religious services. The Museo Capitolare
displays a large array of precious objects associated with the cathedral, including vestments, vessels, and manuscripts. Outside the Duomo is the elaborate Fontana Maggiore, which dates from 1278. It’s adorned with zodiac figures and symbols of the seven arts. | Piazza IV Novembre | 06100 | 075/5724853 | Museum €3.50 | Duomo: Mon.–Sat. 7–12:30 and 4–6:30, Sun. 8–12:30 and 4–6:30. Museum: daily 10–1 and 2:30–5:30; last admission ½ hr before closing.
Museo Archeologico Nazionale.
The museum, next to the imposing church of San Domenico, contains an excellent collection of Etruscan artifacts from throughout the region. Perugia was a flourishing Etruscan city long before it fell under Roman domination in 310 BC. Little else remains of Perugia’s mysterious ancestors, although the Arco di Augusto, in Piazza Fortebraccio, the northern entrance to the city, is of Etruscan origin. | Piazza G. Bruno 10 | 06100 | 075/5727141 | www.archeopg.arti.beniculturali.it | €4 | Mon. 2:30–7:30, Tues.–Sun. 8:30–7:30.
Where to Eat in Perugia
Antica Trattoria San Lorenzo.
$ | UMBRIAN | Brick vaults are not the only distinguishing feature of this small restaurant next to the Duomo, as both the food and the service are outstanding. Particular attention is paid to adapting traditional Umbrian cuisine to the modern palate. There’s also a nice variety of seafood dishes on the menu. The trenette alla farina di noce con pesce di mare (flat noodles made with walnut flour topped with fresh
fish) is a real treat. | Average cost: €18 | Piazza Danti 19-A | 06100 | 075/5721956 | www.anticatrattoriasanlorenzo.com | Closed Sun.
Dal Mi’ Cocco.
$ | UMBRIAN | A great favorite with Perugia’s university students, this place is fun, crowded, and inexpensive. You may find yourself seated at a long table with other diners, but some language help from your neighbors could come in handy—the menu is in pure Perugian dialect. The fixed-price meals change with the season, and each day of the week brings some new creation dal cocco (from the “coconut,” or head) of
the chef. | Average cost: €8 | Corso Garibaldi 12 | 06100 | 075/5732511 | Reservations essential | No credit cards | Closed late July–mid-Aug.
Il Falchetto.
$ | UMBRIAN | Exceptional food at reasonable prices makes this Perugia’s best bargain. Service is smart but relaxed in the two medieval dining rooms that put the chef on view. The house specialty is falchetti (homemade gnocchi with spinach and ricotta cheese). | Average cost: €14 | Via Bartolo 20 | 06123 | 075/5731775 | Closed Mon. and last 2 wks in Jan.
La Rosetta.
$ | ITALIAN | The restaurant, in the hotel of the same name, is a peaceful, elegant spot. In winter you dine inside under medieval vaults; in summer, in the cool courtyard. The food is simple but reliable, and flawlessly served. The restaurant caters to travelers seeking to get away from the bustle of central Perugia. The delightful courtyard is 10 meters off the Corso Vannucci. | Average cost: €18 | Piazza d’Italia 19 | 06100 | 075/5720841 | Reservations essential.
La Taverna.
$ | UMBRIAN | Medieval steps lead to a rustic two-story restaurant where wine bottles and artful clutter decorate the walls. Good choices from the regional menu include caramelle al gorgonzola (pasta rolls filled with red cabbage and mozzarella and topped with a Gorgonzola sauce) and grilled meat dishes, such as the medaglioni di vitello al tartuffo (grilled veal with truffles). | Average cost: €16 | Via delle Streghe 8,
off Corso Vannucci | 06100 | 075/5724128 | Closed Mon.
Where to Stay in Perugia
Borgo Laurice.
$ | The friendly and laid-back owners will pamper you at this small agriturismo (farm stay) in the valley near Torgiano. You may wake up to find that local produce from the surrounding farms has miraculously appeared on your doorstep. The farmer across the way takes pride in showing guests around his small winery and offering tastings of his potent white wine. The pool is right on the edge of corn and sunflower fields. Pros: laid-back country atmosphere; good views from balconies. Cons: slightly difficult to find; outside Perugia. | Rooms from: €100 | Via del’Aratro 59, | San Martino in Campo | 06132 | 075/6099222 | www.borgolaurice.it | 2 apartments.
Castello dell’Oscano.
$$ | A splendid neo-Gothic castle, a late-19th-century villa, and a converted farmhouse hidden in the tranquil hills north of Perugia offer a wide range of accommodations. Step back in time in the castle, where spacious suites and junior suites, all with high oak-beam ceilings, and some with panoramic views of the surrounding country, are decorated with 18th- and 19th-century antiques. The sweeping wooden staircase of the main lounge, and the wood-panel reading rooms
and restaurant are particularly elegant. Rooms in the villa are smaller and more modern, and the apartments of the farmhouse, in the valley below the castle, have their own kitchens. The complex is in Cenerente, 5 km (3 miles) north of Perugia. Pros: quiet elegance; fine gardens; Umbrian wine list. Cons: distant from Perugia; not easy to find. TripAdvisor: “magical fantasy,” “truly
amazing,” “in the atmosphere of old times.” | Rooms from: €180 | Strada della Forcella 32, | Cenerente | 06070 | 075/584371 | www.oscano.it | 24 rooms, 8 suites, 13 apartments | Breakfast.
Hotel Fortuna.
$$ | The elegant decor in the large rooms of this friendly hotel complements the frescoes, which date from the 1700s. Some rooms have balconies. The building itself, just out of sight of Corso Vannucci, dates to the 1300s. Pros: central but quiet; cozy atmosphere. Cons: some small rooms; no restaurant. TripAdvisor: “pleasant hotel with excellent location,” “lots of history,” “an
unbelievable view.” | Rooms from: €128 | Via Bonazzi 19,
Corso Vannucci | 06123 | 075/5722845 | www.hotelfortunaperugia.com | 51 rooms | Breakfast.
Il Cantico della Natura.
$ | Don’t let the rustic appearance of the buildings fool you—this is one of the plushest agriturismi (farm stays) in Umbria. The rooms are furnished in varying ethnic styles, with nice little extras thrown in such as bedside kettles and an array of teas and herbal infusions. The owners also organize a series of outdoor activities. Pros: views of Lake Trasimeno and the surrounding countryside. Cons: not easy to find; road poor in winter. | Rooms from: €125 | Case Sparse 50,
Montesperello di Magione | 06063 | 075/841454 | www.ilcanticodellanatura.it | 12 rooms | Breakfast.
Locanda della Posta.
$ | In the city’s old district, this lodging is in an 18th-century palazzo. Renovations have left the lobby and other public areas rather bland, but the rooms are soothingly decorated in muted colors. Although facing busy Corso Vannucci and supposedly soundproof, they’re still a bit noisy. Those on the upper floors at the back of the building are quieter and have great views. Pros: some fine views; central position. Cons: uninspiring lobby; some small rooms; no restaurant. TripAdvisor: “perfect location,” “old-world charm,” “lovely.” | Rooms from: €120 | Corso Vannucci 97 | 06121 | 075/5728925 | 38 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.
Posta dei Donini.
$$ | In the center of a small village between Perugia and Torgiano, this hotel is known for privacy and exclusivity. As you wander the grounds, gardeners go quietly about their business. The guest rooms are also beguilingly comfortable. For memorable ablutions, don’t miss the huge showerheads, commissioned from a Florentine artist. The hotel also has an excellent restaurant, the Pantagruel, which boasts a wine list with more than 500 labels. Pros: plush atmosphere; extensive gardens. Cons: outside Perugia; uninteresting village. TripAdvisor: “a jewel in Umbria,” “old-world elegance,” “beautiful mansion.” | Rooms from: €200 | Via Deruta 43, | San Martino in Campo | 06079 | 075/609132 | www.postadonini.it | 33 rooms.
Tre Vaselle.
$$ | Four stone buildings, linked underground, make up this hotel in the center of Torgiano. Its rooms are spacious, and the floors are of typical red-clay Tuscan tiles. Olive groves surround the outdoor pool, the spa is indoors. The restaurant, the Melograne, is a comfortable affair, with red tablecloths, wood-beam ceilings, and exquisite local specialities. Pros: perfect for visiting Torgiano wine area and Deruta; friendly staff. Cons: somewhat far from Perugia; uninspiring village. TripAdvisor: “peerless,” “beautiful villa,” “the place to relax.” | Rooms from: €200 | Via Garibaldi 48, | Torgiano | 06089 | 075/9880447 | www.3vaselle.it | 47 rooms.
Nightlife and the Arts in Perugia
With its large student population, the city has plenty to offer in the way of bars and clubs. The best ones are around the city center, off Corso Vanucci. Viva Perugia is a good source of information about nightlife. The monthly, sold at newsstands, has a section in English.
Music Festivals
Summer sees two music festivals in Perugia.
Umbria Jazz.
This hugely popular festival is held for 10 days in July; tickets are available starting at the end of April. | 075/5732432 | www.umbriajazz.com.
Sagra Musicale Umbra.
Held from mid-August to mid-September, the Sagra Musicale Umbra celebrates sacred music. | 075/5721374 | www.perugiamusicaclassica.com.
Shopping in Perugia
Take a stroll down any of Perugia’s main streets, including Corso Vannucci, Via dei Priori, Via Oberdan, and Via Sant’Ercolano, and you’ll see many well-known designer boutiques and specialty shops.
The most typical thing to buy in Perugia is some Perugina chocolate, which you can find almost anywhere. The best-known chocolates made by Perugina are the chocolate-and-hazelnut-filled nibbles called Baci (literally, “kisses”). They’re wrapped in silver paper that includes a sliver of paper, like the fortune in a fortune cookie, with multilingual romantic sentiments or sayings.
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