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Exploring Assisi | Where to Eat in Assisi | Where to Stay in Assisi

The small town of Assisi is one of the Christian world’s most important pilgrimage sites and home of the Basilica di San Francesco—built to honor Saint Francis (1182–1226) and erected in swift order after his death. The peace and serenity of the town is a welcome respite after the hustle and bustle of some of Italy’s major cities.

Like most other towns in the region, Assisi began as an Umbri settlement in the 7th century BC and was conquered by the Romans 400 years later. The town was Christianized by Saint Rufino, its patron saint, in the 3rd century, but it’s the spirit of Saint Francis, a patron saint of Italy and founder of the Franciscan monastic order, that’s felt throughout its narrow medieval streets. The famous 13th-century basilica was decorated by the greatest artists of the period.

Getting Here

Assisi lies on the Terontola–Foligno rail line, with almost hourly connections to Perugia and direct trains to Rome and Florence several times a day. The Stazione Centrale is 4 km (2½ miles) from town, with a bus service about every half hour. Assisi is easily reached from the A1 Motorway (Rome–Florence) and the S75b highway. The walled town is closed to traffic, so cars must be left in the parking lots at Porta San Pietro, near Porta Nuova, or beneath Piazza Matteotti. Pay your parking fee at the cassa (ticket booth) before you return to your car to get a ticket to insert in the machine that will allow you to exit. It’s a short but sometimes steep walk into the center of town; frequent minibuses (buy tickets from a newsstand or tobacco shop near where you park your car) make the rounds for weary pilgrims.

Visitor Information

Assisi Tourism Office.
Piazza del Commune 22 | 06081 | 075/8138680 | www.regioneumbria.eu.

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Exploring Assisi

Assisi is pristinely medieval in architecture and appearance, owing in large part to relative neglect from the 16th century until 1926, when the celebration of the 700th anniversary of Saint Francis’s death brought more than 2 million visitors. Since then, pilgrims have flocked here in droves, and today several million arrive each year to pay homage. But not even the constant flood of visitors to this town of just 3,000 residents can spoil the singular beauty of this significant religious center, the home of some of the Western tradition’s most important works of art. The hill on which Assisi sits rises dramatically from the flat plain, and the town is dominated by a medieval castle at the very top.

Even though Assisi is sometimes besieged by busloads of sightseers who clamor to visit the famous basilica, it’s difficult not to be charmed by the tranquillity of the town and its medieval architecture. Once you’ve seen the basilica, stroll through the town’s narrow winding streets to see beautiful vistas of the nearby hills and valleys peeking through openings between the buildings.

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Basilica di San Francesco.
The basilica isn’t one church but two, the Gothic upper part built a scant half century after the Romanesque lower one. Work on this two-tiered monolith was begun a few years after the death of St. Francis. His coffin, unearthed from its secret hiding place after a 52-day search in 1818, is on display in the crypt below the Lower Basilica. Both churches are magnificently decorated artistic treasure-houses, covered floor to ceiling with some of Europe’s finest frescoes: the Lower Basilica is dim and full of candlelight shadows, while the Upper Basilica is bright and airy.

The first chapel to the left of the nave in the Lower Church was decorated by the Sienese master Simone Martini (1284–1344). Dating from 1322–26, the frescoes show the life of St. Martin—the sharing of his cloak with the poor man, the saint’s knighthood, and his death. There’s some dispute about the paintings in the third chapel on the right, which depict the life of Mary Magdalen. Experts have argued for years, with many attributing them to Giotto (1266–1337). There’s a similar dispute about the works above the high altar, depicting the marriage of St. Francis to Poverty, Chastity, and Obedience—some say they’re by Giotto; others claim them for an anonymous pupil. In the right transept are frescoes by Cimabue (circa 1240–1302), including a Madonna and saints, one of them St. Francis himself. In the left transept are some of the best-known works of the Sienese painter Pietro Lorenzetti (circa 1280–1348). They depict the Madonna with Sts. John and Francis, the Crucifixion, and the Descent from the Cross.

It’s quite a contrast to climb the steps next to the altar and emerge into the bright sunlight and airy grace of the double-arched Renaissance Chiostro dei Morti (Cloister of the Dead). A door to the right leads to the Tesoro (Treasury) of the church and contains relics of St. Francis and other holy objects associated with the order.

In the Upper Church the frescoes show that Giotto, only in his twenties when he painted them, was a pivotal artist in the development of Western painting, breaking away from the stiff, unnatural styles of earlier generations and moving toward realism and three-dimensionality. The paintings are meant to be viewed from left to right, starting in the transept. The most beloved of the scenes is probably St. Francis Preaching to the Birds, a touching painting that seems to sum up the saint’s gentle spirit. In the scene of the dream of Innocent III (circa 1160–1216), the pope dreams of a humble monk who will steady the church; in the panel next to the sleeping pope, you see a strong Francis supporting a church that seems to be on the verge of tumbling down—a scene that resonates with irony today. The dress code here is strictly enforced—no bare shoulders or bare knees. | Piazza di San Francesco | 06081 | 075/819001 | www.sanfrancescoassisi.org | Lower Church: Easter–Oct., daily 6 am–6:45 pm; Nov.–Easter, daily 6:30–6. Upper Church: Easter–Oct., daily 8:30–6:45; Nov.–Easter, daily 8:30–6.

Basilica di Santa Chiara.
The lovely, wide piazza in front of this church is reason enough to visit. The red-and-white-striped facade of the church frames the piazza’s panoramic view over the Umbrian plains. Santa Chiara is dedicated to Saint Clare, one of the earliest and most fervent of Saint Francis’s followers and the founder of the order of the Poor Ladies—or Poor Clares—which was based on the Franciscan monastic order. The church contains Clare’s body, and in the Cappella del Crocifisso (on the right) is the cross that spoke to Saint Francis. A heavily veiled nun of the Poor Clares order is usually stationed before the cross in adoration of the image. | Piazza Santa Chiara | 06081 | 075/812282 | Nov.–mid-Mar., daily 6:30–noon and 2–6; mid-Mar.–Oct., daily 6:30–noon and 2–7.

Cattedrale di San Rufino.
Saint Francis and Saint Clare were among those baptized in Assisi’s Cattedrale, which was the principal church in town until the 13th century. The baptismal font has since been redecorated, but it’s possible to see the crypt of Saint Rufino, the bishop who brought Christianity to Assisi and was martyred on August 11, 238 (or 236 by some accounts). Admission to the crypt includes the small Museo Capitolare, with its detached frescoes and artifacts. | Piazza San Rufino | 06081 | 075/5812283 | www.sistemamuseo.it | Crypt and Museo Capitolare €2.50 | Cathedral: daily 7–noon and 2–6. Crypt and Museum: mid-Mar.–mid-Oct., daily 10–1 and 3–6; mid-Oct.–mid-Mar., daily 10–1 and 2:30–6.

Worth Noting

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva.
Dating from the time of the Emperor Augustus (27 BC–AD 14), this structure was originally dedicated to the Roman goddess of wisdom, in later times used as a monastery and prison before being converted into a church in the 16th century. The expectations raised by the perfect classical facade are not met by the interior, which was subjected to a thorough Baroque transformation in the 17th century. | Piazza del Comune | 06081 | 075/812268 | Daily 7:15 am–8 pm.

Off the Beaten Path

Eremo delle Carceri.
About 4 km (2½ miles) east of Assisi is a monastery set in a dense wood against Monte Subasio. The “Hermitage of Prisons” was the place where Saint Francis and his followers went to “imprison” themselves in prayer. The only site in Assisi that remains essentially unchanged since Saint Francis’s time, the church and monastery are the kinds of tranquil places that Saint Francis would have appreciated. The walk out from town is very pleasant, and many trails lead from here across the wooded hillside of Monte Subasio (now a protected forest), with beautiful vistas across the Umbrian countryside. True to their Franciscan heritage, the friars here are entirely dependent on alms from visitors. | Via Santuario delle Carceri 4 km (2½ miles) east of Assisi | 06081 | 075/812301 | www.eremocarceri.it | Donations accepted | Nov.–Mar., daily 6:30–6; Apr.–Oct., daily 6:30 am–7 pm.

Where to Eat in Assisi

Assisi isn’t a late-night town, so don’t plan on any midnight snacks. What you can count on is the ubiquitous stringozzi (thick spaghetti), as well as the local specialty piccione all’assisana (roasted pigeon with olives and liver). The locals eat torta al testo (a dense flatbread, often stuffed with vegetables or cheese) with their meals.

Buca di San Francesco.
$ | UMBRIAN | In summer, dine in a cool green garden; in winter, under the low brick arches of the restaurant’s cozy cellars. The unique settings and the first-rate fare make this central restaurant Assisi’s busiest. Try homemade spaghetti alla buca, served with a roasted mushroom sauce. | Average cost: €15 | Via Eugenio Brizi 1 | 06081 | 075/812204 | Closed Mon. and 10 days late July.

Fodor’s Choice | La Pallotta.
$ | UMBRIAN | At this homey, family-run trattoria with a crackling fireplace and stone walls, the women do the cooking and the men serve the food. Try the stringozzi alla pallotta (thick spaghetti with a pesto of olives and mushrooms). Connected to the restaurant is an inn whose eight rooms have firm beds and some views across the rooftops of town. Hotel guests get a discount if they dine here. | Average cost: €16 | Vicolo della Volta Pinta 3 | 06081 | 075/812649 | Closed Tues. and 2 wks in Jan. or Feb.

Osteria Piazzetta dell’Erba.
$ | UMBRIAN | Hip service and sophisticated presentations attract locals to this trattoria. The owners carefully select wine at local vineyards, buy it in bulk, and then bottle it themselves, resulting in high quality and reasonable prices. Choose from the wide selection of appetizers, including smoked goose breast, and from four or five types of pasta, plus various salads and a good selection of torta al testo (dense flatbread stuffed with vegetables or cheese). For dessert, try the homemade biscuits, which you dunk in sweet wine. Outdoor seating is available. | Average cost: €16 | Via San Gabriele dell’Addolorata 15b | 06081 | 075/815352 | Closed Mon. and a few wks in Jan. or Feb.

San Francesco.
$ | UMBRIAN | An excellent view of the Basilica di San Francesco is the primary reason to come here. Locals consider this the best restaurant in town, where creative Umbrian dishes are made with aromatic locally grown herbs. The seasonal menu might include gnocchi topped with a sauce of wild herbs and oca stufata di finocchio selvaggio (goose stuffed with wild fennel). Appetizers and desserts are especially good. | Average cost: €22 | Via di San Francesco 52 | 06081 | 075/812329 | Closed Wed. and July 15–30.

Where to Stay in Assisi

Advance reservations are essential at Assisi’s hotels between Easter and October and over Christmas. Latecomers are often forced to stay in the modern town of Santa Maria degli Angeli, 8 km (5 miles) away. As a last-minute option, you can always inquire at restaurants to see if they’re renting out rooms.

Until the early 1980s, pilgrim hostels outnumbered ordinary hotels in Assisi, and they present an intriguing and economical alternative to conventional lodgings. They’re usually called conventi or ostelli (“convents” or “hostels”) because they’re run by convents, churches, or other Catholic organizations. Rooms are spartan but peaceful. Check with the tourist office for a list.

Fodor’s Choice | Castello di Petrata.
$$ | Built as a fortress in the 14th century, the Castello di Petrata rightfully dominates the area, with Monte Subasio, Assisi, and the distant hills and valleys of Perugia all in view. Every room is different from the last: wood beams and sections of exposed medieval stonework add character, and comfortable couches turn each room into a delightful retreat. Pros: great views of Assisi hills, gardens, and walks. Cons: slightly isolated; far from Assisi town center. TripAdvisor: “off the beaten path,” “peaceful heaven,” “authentic and quiet.” | Rooms from: €140 | Via Petrata 25, Località Petrata | 06081 | 075/815451 | www.castellopetrata.com | 16 rooms, 7 suites | Closed Jan.–Mar. | Breakfast.

Hotel Subasio.
$$ | The converted monastery close to the Basilica di San Francesco is well past its prime, when guests included celebrities like Marlene Dietrich and Charlie Chaplin. If you can get past the kitschy hangings on the walls, you’ll notice such vestiges of glamour as Venetian chandeliers. The hotel does have splendid views, comfortable sitting rooms, and flower-decked terraces, and it’s a stone’s throw from all those Giotto frescoes. Some rooms are grand in size and overlook the valley, whereas others are small and rough around the edges. The restaurant has a nice view, but the food could be better. Pros: perfect location; views of the Assisi plain. Cons: lobby a bit drab; some small rooms; service can be spotty. TripAdvisor: “friendly staff,” “spectacular location,” “gorgeous view.” | Rooms from: €165 | Via Frate Elia 2 | 06082 | 075/812206 | www.hotelsubasio.com | 54 rooms, 8 suites | Breakfast.

Hotel Umbra.
$ | A 16th-century town house is the setting for this charming hotel near Piazza del Comune. Ask for an upper room with a view over the Assisi rooftops to the valley below. The restaurant, closed for lunch on Tuesday and Wednesday, has a vine-covered terrace leading to a secluded garden. Pros: friendly welcome; pleasant small garden. Cons: difficult parking; some small rooms. TripAdvisor: “peaceful retreat,” “lovely,” “charming hotel with knockout view.” | Rooms from: €100 | Via degli Archi 6 | 06081 | 075/812240 | www.hotelumbra.it | 25 rooms | Closed Dec. and Jan. | Breakfast.

San Francesco.
$$ | You can’t beat the location—the roof terrace and some of the rooms look out onto the Basilica di San Francesco, which is opposite the hotel. Rooms and facilities range from simple to dreary, but you may be reminded that looks aren’t everything by the nice touches like slippers, a good-night piece of chocolate, and soundproofing. Fruit, homemade tarts, and fresh ricotta make for a first-rate breakfast. Pros: excellent location; great views. Cons: simple rooms; sometimes noisy in peak season. TripAdvisor: “old and quaint but comfortable,” “thoroughly enjoyable,” “fantastic location and friendly service.” | Rooms from: €140 | Via San Francesco 48 | 06082 | 075/812281 | www.hotelsanfrancescoassisi.it | 44 rooms | Breakfast.

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