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Royal Naples | Vomero | Spaccanapoli and Capodimonte | Where to Eat in Naples | Where to Stay in Naples | Nightlife and the Arts in Naples | Shopping in Naples
“Built like a great amphitheater around her beautiful bay, Naples is an eternally unfolding play acted by a million of the best actors in the world,” Herbert Kubly observed in his American in Italy. “The comedy is broad, the tragedy violent. The curtain never rings down.” Is it a sense of doom from living in the shadow of Vesuvius that makes some Neapolitans so volatile, so blind to everything but the pain or pleasure of the moment?
A huge zest for living and crowded conditions are the more probable causes. But whatever the reason, Naples remains the most vibrant city in Italy—a steaming, bubbling, reverberating minestrone in which each block is a small village, every street the setting for a Punch-and-Judy show, and everything seems to be a backdrop for an opera not yet composed.
It’s said that northern Italians vacation here to remind themselves of the time when Italy was molto Italiana—really Italian. In this respect, Naples—Napoli in Italian—doesn’t disappoint: Neapolitan rainbows of laundry wave in the wind over alleyways open-windowed with friendliness, mothers caress children, men break out into impromptu arias at sidewalk caffè, and street scenes offer Fellini-esque slices of life. Especially in the Spaccanapoli district, everywhere contrasting elements of faded gilt and romance, rust and calamity, grandeur and squalor form a pageant of pure Italianità—Italy at its most Italian.
In most of the city you need a good sense of humor and a firm grip on your pocketbook and camera. Expect to do a lot of walking (take care crossing the chaotic streets); buses are crowded, and taxis often get held up in traffic. Use the funiculars or the metro Line 1 to get up and down the hills, and take the quick—but erratic—metro Line 2 (the city’s older subway system) when crossing the city between Piazza Garibaldi and Pozzuoli.
Royal Naples
Naples hasn’t been a capital for more than 150 years, but it still prides itself on its royal heritage. Most of the modern center of the town owes its look and feel to various members of the Bourbon family, who built their palaces and castles in this area. Allow plenty of time for museum visits, especially the Palazzo Reale. The views of the bay from the Castel dell’Ovo (good at any time) are especially fine at sunset.
Top Attractions
Castel dell’Ovo.
Dangling over the Porto Santa Lucia on a thin promontory, this 12th-century fortress built atop the ruins of an ancient Roman villa overlooks the whole harbor—proof, if you need it, that the Romans knew a premium location when they saw one. For the same reason, some of the city’s top hotels share this site. Walk up onto the roof’s Sala della Terrazze for a postcard-come-true view of Capri. Then, as the odd car honk drifts across from inland, use the tiled map to
identify the sights of the city and maybe plot an itinerary for the rest of the day. It’s a peaceful spot for strolling and enjoying the views. | Santa Lucia waterfront,
Via Partenope | 80121 | 081/7956180 | Free | Weekdays 9–7:30; Sun. 9–2.
Castel Nuovo.
Known to locals as Maschio Angioino, in reference to its Angevin builders, this imposing castle is now used more for marital than military purposes—a portion of it serves as a government registry office. Its looming Angevin stonework is upstaged by a white four-tiered triumphal entrance arch, ordered by Alfonso of Aragon after he entered the city in 1443 to seize power from the increasingly beleaguered Angevin Giovanna II. At the arch’s top, as if justifying Alfonso’s
claim to the throne, the Archangel Gabriel slays a demon.
Across the courtyard within the castle is the Sala Grande, also known as the Sala dei Baroni, which has a stunning vaulted ceiling 92 feet high. In 1486 local barons hatched a plot against Alfonso’s son, King Ferrante, who reacted by inviting them to this hall for a wedding banquet, which promptly turned into a mass arrest. (Ferrante is said to have kept a crocodile in the castle as his special executioner, too.) You can also visit the Sala dell’Armeria, where a glass floor reveals recent excavations of Roman baths from the Augustan period. In the next room on the left, the Cappella Palatina, look on the frescoed walls for Nicolo di Tomaso’s painting of Robert Anjou, one of the first realistic portraits ever.
The castle’s first floor holds a small gallery that includes a beautiful early Renaissance Adoration of the Magi by Marco Cardisco, with the roles of the three Magi played by the three Aragonese kings: Ferrante I, Ferrante II, and Charles V. | Piazza Municipio, Toledo | 80133 | 081/7955877 | €5 | Mon.–Sat. 9–7 | Station: Montesanto (in construction: Piazza Municipio).
Fodor’s Choice |
Palazzo Reale.
Dominating Piazza del Plebiscito, this huge palace—perhaps best described as overblown imperial—dates from the early 1600s. It was renovated and redecorated by successive rulers, including Napoléon’s sister Caroline and her ill-fated husband, Joachim Murat (1767–1815), who reigned briefly in Naples after the French emperor sent the Bourbons packing and before they returned to reclaim their kingdom. Don’t miss seeing the royal apartments,
sumptuously furnished and full of precious paintings, tapestries, porcelains, and other objets d’art. The monumental marble staircase gives you an idea of the scale on which Neapolitan rulers lived. | Piazza del Plebiscito,
1,
Toledo | 80132 | 081/400547, 848/800288
schools and guided tours | www.palazzorealenapoli.it | €4 | Thurs.–Tues. 9–7 | Station: Dante (in construction: Piazza Municipio).
Quick Bites: Caffè Gambrinus. Across from the Palazzo Reale is the most famous coffeehouse in town, the Caffè Gambrinus. Founded in 1850, this 19th-century jewel once functioned as a brilliant intellectual salon. The glory days are over, but the inside rooms, with amazing mirrored walls and gilded ceilings, make this an essential stop for any visitor to the city. To its credit, the caffè doesn’t inflate prices to cash in on its fame. | Piazza Trieste e Trento, near Piazza del Plebiscito | 80132 | 081/417582.
Palazzo Zevallos.
Tucked inside this beautifully restored palazzo, which houses the Banca Intesa San Paolo (one of Italy’s major banks), is a small museum that’s worth seeking out. Enter the bank through Cosimo Fanzago’s gargoyled doorway and take the handsome elevator to the upper floor. The first room to the left holds the star attraction, Caravaggio’s last work, The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula. The saint here is, for dramatic effect, deprived of her usual
retinue of a thousand followers. On the left, a face of pure spite, is the king of the Huns, who has just shot Ursula with an arrow after his proposal of marriage has been rejected. Opposite the painting is an elaborate map of the city of Caravaggio’s day, not so different from now. | Via Toledo 185,
Piazza Plebiscito | 80132 | 800/16052007 | www.palazzozevallos.com | €4 | Mon.–Sat. 10–6 | Station: Montesanto (in construction: Toledo).
Teatro San Carlo.
This large theater was built in 1737, 40 years earlier than Milan’s La Scala—though it was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1816. You can visit the interior, decorated in the white-and-gilt stucco of the neoclassical era as part of a 30-minute guided tour. The space is made for opera on a grand scale: nearly 200 boxes are arranged on six levels, and the huge stage (12,000 square feet) permits productions with horses, camels, and elephants. A removable backdrop can be
lifted to reveal the Palazzo Reale Gardens. | Via San Carlo 101-103,
Toledo | 80133 | 081/5534565
Mon.–Sat,
081/7972349
Sun. | www.teatrosancarlo.it | Tour €5 | Tours Mon.–Sat. 10–4 | Station: Piazza Municipio (in construction).
Quick Bites: Galleria Umberto. Across from the Teatro San Carlo towers the imposing entrance to the glass-capped neoclassical Galleria Umberto, a late-19th-century shopping arcade where you can sit at one of several cafés and watch the vivacious Neapolitans as they go about their business. | Via San Carlo, near Piazza Plebiscito | 80132.
Getting Around Naples
Public Transit
Naples’s rather old Metropolitana (subway system), also called Linea 2, provides fairly frequent service and can be the fastest way to get across the traffic-clogged city.
The other urban subway system, Metropolitana Collinare (or Linea 1), links the hill area of the Vomero and beyond with the National Archaeological Museum and Piazza Dante. Trains on both lines run from 6 am until 10:30 pm.
For standard public transportation—including the subways, buses, and funiculars—an UnicoNapoli costs €1.20 and is valid for 90 minutes as far as Pozzuoli to the west and Portici to the east; €3.60 buys a biglietto giornaliero, good for the whole day (€3 on weekends).
Bus service has become viable over the last few years, especially with the introduction of larger buses on the regular R1, R2, R3, and R4 routes. Electronic signs display wait times at many stops.
Parking
If you come to Naples by car, find a garage, agree on the cost, and leave it there for the duration of your stay. (If you park on the street, you run the risk of theft.) These are centrally located and safe: Garage Cava..
Via Mergellina 6 | 80122 | 081/660023 | 24 hrs. Grilli..
Hotel Ramada,
Via Ferraris 40
, near Stazione Centrale | 80142 | 081/264344 | 24 hrs. Turistico.
Turistico | Via de Gasperi 14
, near port | 80133 | 081/5525442 | 7.30-midnight.
Taxis
When taking a taxi in Naples, make sure that the meter is switched on at the start of your trip. Trips around the city are unlikely to cost less than €6 or more than €20. Set fares for various destinations within the city should be displayed in the taxi—for instance, in accordance with the new taxi tariff, you should pay €6 for travel between the centro storico (historic center) and the train station. Extra charges for things like baggage and night service should also be displayed. For trips outside the city, negotiate your fare before getting in. Watch out for overcharging at three locations: the airport, the railway station, and the hydrofoil marina. And in peak summer weeks, don’t forget that many cabs in Naples have no air-conditioning—which the city’s buses and metro do have—so you can practically bake if caught in one during a half-hour traffic jam.
Tours
City Sightseeing.
Close to the port, beside the main entrance to Castel Nuovo, is the terminal for double-decker buses belonging to City Sightseeing. For €22 you can take five different excursions, giving you reasonable coverage of the downtown sights and outlying attractions like the Museo di Capodimonte. There is also a service to Pompeii and Vesuvius. | Piazza Municipio | 80133 | 081/5517279 |
www.napoli.city-sightseeing.it.
Centro di Accoglienza Turistica Museo Aperto Napoli.
A welcome center in the old town, the Centro di Accoglienza Turistica Museo Aperto Napoli, offers €6 audio guides you can listen to as you wander around. It’s based in the Museo Diocesano. | Largo Donnaregina | 80138 | 081/5571365 | www.museoapertonapoli.it.
Worth Noting
Piazza Plebiscito.
After spending time as a car park, this square was restored in 1994 to one of Napoli Nobilissima’s most majestic spaces, with a semicircle of Doric columns resembling Saint Peter’s Square in Rome. It was originally built under the Napoleonic rule. When that regime fell, Ferdinand (new king of the Two Sicilies) ordered the addition of the Church of San Francesco di Paola. On the left as you approach the church is a statue of Ferdinand and on the right his father, Charles
III, both clad in Roman togas. Around dusk the floodlights come on, creating a magical effect. The square is aired by a delightful sea breeze and on Sunday one corner becomes an improvised soccer stadium where local youth emulate their heroes.
Via Toledo.
Sooner or later you’ll wind up at one of the busiest commercial arteries, also known as Via Roma, which is thankfully closed to through traffic—at least along the stretch leading from the Palazzo Reale. Don’t avoid dipping into this parade of shops and coffee bars where plump pastries are temptingly arranged.
Vomero
Heart-stopping views of the Bay of Naples are framed by this gentrified neighborhood on a hill served by the Montesanto, Centrale, and Chiaia funiculars. The upper stations for all three are an easy walk from Piazza Vanvitelli, a good starting point for exploring this thriving district with no shortage of smart bars and trattorias.
Top Attractions
Castel Sant’Elmo.
Perched on the Vomero, this massive castle is almost the size of a small town. It was built by the Angevins in the 14th century to dominate the port and the old city; then remodeled by the Spanish in 1537. The parapets, configured in the form of a six-pointed star, provide fabulous views. The whole bay lies on one side; on another, the city spreads out like a map, its every dome and turret clearly visible; and to the east, is slumbering Vesuvius. Once a major military
outpost, the castle these days hosts occasional cultural events. Its prison, the Carcere alto di Castel Sant’Elmo, is the site of the Museo del Novecento Napoli, which traces Naples’s 20th-century artistic output, from the futurist period through the 1980s.You get in the castle free if you have a ticket to the adjoining Certosa di San Martino. | Largo San Martino,
Vomero | 80129 | 081/2294401 | www.polomusealenapoli.beniculturali.it | €5; Museo del Novecento Napoli, €5 | Wed.–Mon. 8:30–7:30; Museo del Novecento Napoli, Wed.–Mon. 9–7 | Station: Vanvitelli.
Certosa di San Martino.
Atop a rocky promontory with sweeping views of the city and majestic salons that would please any monarch, the Certosa di San Martino is a religious site that seems more like a palace. A Carthusian monastery restored during the 17th century in exuberant Neapolitan baroque style, this structure has now been transformed into a diverse museum. The gorgeous Chiostro Grande (great cloister) and the panoramic garden terraces—strangely quiet, with the city sprawling below—are
among the most impressive spots in the city. Popular exhibits include the presepi (Christmas crèches) and an anonymous painting that depicts the Naples waterfront in the 15th century and the return of the Aragonese fleet from the Battle of Ischia. Take the funicular from Piazza Montesanto to Vomero. | Piazzale San Martino 5,
Vomero | 80129 | 081/2294589 | museosanmartino.campaniabeniculturali.it | €6 includes admission to Castel Sant’Elmo | Thurs.–Tues. (Sezione Presepiale, Thurs.–Mon.) 8:30–7:30. Some rooms are often closed (Quarto del Priore) depending on staffing |
Station: Vanvitelli.
Spaccanapoli and Capodimonte
Nowhere embodies the spirit of Naples better than the arrow-straight street informally known as Spaccanapoli (literally, “split Naples”). Gazing down it, you can sense where the name comes from—the street resembles a trench, running from Castel Capuano (until recently the city’s courthouse) up to the Vomero hill, retracing one of the main arteries of the ancient Greek, and later Roman, settlements. Along its western section, Spaccanapoli is officially named Via Benedetto Croce, in honor of the illustrious philosopher born here in 1866, in the building at No. 12. Over its course, the street changes its name seven times. But no matter what it’s called, a vibrant street culture remains constant.
Capodimonte, to the north, was open countryside until the Bourbon kings built a hunting lodge there, after which it rapidly became part of the city proper. Between the two neighborhoods is the Museo Archeologico, Naples’s finest museum. It’s best to visit shortly after lunchtime, when the crowds have thinned out. Two hours will be just enough to get your bearings and cover the more important collections. Since the Museo di Capodimonte—unlike many of the churches and the archaeological museum—is well lighted and can be viewed in fading daylight, it’s best left until the afternoon (leaving enough time to return to the center of town before sunset).
Top Attractions
Cappella Sansevero.
Off Vicolo Domenico Maggiore at the beginning of Via Francesco de Sanctis, this chapel/museum has an intriguing sculpture collection. The chapel itself was founded in 1590 by Prince Giovan Francesco di Sangro, fulfilling a vow to the Virgin after recovery from an illness (his statue is on the second niche to the left.) Over the generations the simple sanctuary became a family mausoleum, with statues of the various princes lining the walls.
Most of the building work here is due to restructuring in the mid-18th century under the seventh Sangro di Sansevero prince, Raimondo—a larger-than-life figure, popularly believed to have signed a pact with the devil allowing him to plumb nature’s secrets. Prince Raimondo commissioned the young sculptor Giuseppe Sammartino to create numerous works, including the chapel’s centerpiece: the remarkable Veiled Christ, which has a seemingly transparent marble veil some say was produced using a chemical formula provided by the prince. If you have the stomach for it, take a look in the crypt, where some of the anatomical experiments conducted by the prince are gruesomely displayed. | Via Francesco de Sanctis 19, Spaccanapoli | 80134 | 081/5518470 | www.museosansevero.it | €7 | Mon. and Wed.–Sat. 10–5:10, Sun. 10–1:10 | Station: Dante.
Duomo di San Gennaro.
The Duomo was established in the 1200s, but the building you see was erected a century later and has since undergone radical changes—especially during the Baroque period. Inside, 110 ancient columns salvaged from pagan buildings are set into the piers that support the 350-year-old wooden ceiling. Off the left aisle you step down into the 4th-century church of Santa Restituta, which was incorporated into the cathedral. Though Santa
Restituta was redecorated in the late 1600s in the prevalent Baroque style, a few very old mosaics remain in the Battistero (Baptistery).
On the right aisle of the cathedral, in the Cappella di San Gennaro, are multicolor marbles and frescoes honoring Saint Januarius, the miracle-working patron saint of Naples, whose altar and relics are encased in silver. Three times a year—on September 19 (his feast day); on the Saturday preceding the first Sunday in May, which commemorates the transfer of his relics to Naples; and on December 16—his dried blood, contained in two sealed vials, is believed to liquefy during rites in his honor. On these days large numbers of devout Neapolitans offer up prayers in his memory. The Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro houses a rich collection of treasures associated with the saint. Paintings by Solimena and Luca Giordano hang alongside statues, busts, candelabras, and tabernacles in gold, silver, and marble by Cosimo Fanzago and other 18th-century Baroque masters. | Via Duomo, 149, Spaccanapoli | 80132 | 081/449097 Duomo, 081/294764 museum | www.museosangennaro.com | €7, €1.50 for Baptistery | Daily 9–6; Baptistery, 8:30–1, 3:30–6:30.
Gesù Nuovo.
The oddly-faceted stone facade of this elaborate Baroque church dates to the late 16th century. Originally a palace, the building was seized by Pedro of Toledo in 1547 and donated to the Jesuits. Recent research revealed that the symbols on the stones on the front are, in fact, Aramaic musical notes that produce a 45-minute concerto. Be sure not to miss the votive chapel dedicated to recently beatified surgeon Giuseppe Moscato, along with a re-creation of his studio.
Here hundreds of tiny silver ex-voto images have been hung on the walls to give thanks to the saint for his assistance in medical matters. On the opposite far left corner a smaller chapel similarly gives thanks to San Ciro (Saint Cyrus). | Piazza Gesù Nuovo,
Spaccanapoli | 80134 | 081/5578111 | Daily 7–12:30 and 4–7:30 | Station: Piazza Dante.
Fodor’s Choice |
Museo Archeologico Nazionale (National Museum of Archaeology).
Those who know and love this legendary museum—now restyled as MANN (Museo Archeologico Nazionale Napoli, although the name hasn’t caught on yet)—have the tendency upon hearing it mentioned to heave a sigh: it’s famous not only for its unrivaled collections but also for its cordoned-off rooms, missing identification labels, poor lighting, billows of
dust, suffocating heat in summer, and indifferent personnel—a state of affairs seen by some critics as an encapsulation of everything that’s wrong with southern Italy in general.
Precisely because of this emblematic value, the National Ministry of Culture has decided to lavish attention and funds on the museum in a complete reorganization. This process has been ongoing for some time and looks as if it will continue for a while longer, although improvements are gradually becoming visible: ticketing has been privatized and opening hours extended (for the center-core “masterpiece” collection, that is; other rooms are subject to staffing shortages and can be closed on a rotating basis). Some of the “newer” rooms, covering archaeological discoveries in the Greco-Roman settlements and necropolises in and around Naples, have helpful informational panels in English. A fascinating free display of the finds unearthed during digs for the Naples metro has been set up in the Museo station close to the museum entrance.
Even if some rooms may be closed, this still leaves available the core of the museum: a nucleus of world-renowned archaeological finds that puts most other museums to shame, with over 13,500 items on display (and a further 300,000 in storage). It includes the legendary Farnese collection of ancient sculpture, together with local sculptural finds, and almost all the good stuff—the best mosaics and paintings—from Pompeii and Herculaneum. The quality of these collections is unmatched and, as far as the mosaic, painting, and bronze sections are concerned, unique in the world. | Piazza Museo 19, Spaccanapoli | 801235 | 081/440166 | sbanap.campaniabeniculturali.it | €6.50, more for special exhibits | Wed.–Mon. 9–7 | Station: Museo.
Quick Bites: Timpani e Tempura. Timpani e Tempura is a tiny shrine to local culinary culture. Though there are only three small tables and a bar-style counter, it’s worth the squeeze for the timballi di maccheroni (baked pasta cakes) and unique mangiamaccheroni (spaghetti in broth with caciocavallo cheese, butter, basil, and pepper). High-quality wines by the glass make this a spot for a swift but excellent lunch. You can also buy cheese and salami to take home with you. | Vico della Quercia 17, Spaccanapoli | 80134 | 081/5512280 | www.timpanietempura.it | Tues.–Sat 9:30–7:30, Sun. and Mon. 9:30–3:30.
Museo di Capodimonte.
The grandiose 18th-century neoclassical Bourbon royal palace houses an impressive assortment of fine and decorative art. Capodimonte’s greatest treasure is the excellent collection of paintings well displayed in the Galleria Nazionale, on the palace’s first and second floors. Aside from the artworks, part of the royal apartments still has a complement of beautiful antique furniture (most of it on the splashy scale so dear to the Bourbons),
and a staggering range of porcelain and majolica from the various royal residences. The walls of the apartments are hung with numerous portraits, providing a close-up of the unmistakable Bourbon features, a challenge to any court painter. Most rooms have fairly comprehensive information cards in English, whereas the audio guide is overly selective and somewhat quirky. The main galleries on the first floor are devoted to work from the 13th to 18th centuries, including many
pieces by Dutch and Spanish masters. On the second floor look out for stunning paintings by Simone Martini (circa 1284–1344), Titian (1488/90–1576), and Caravaggio (1573–1610). The palace is situated in the vast Bosco di Capodimonte (Capodimonte Park), which served as the royal hunting preserve and later as the site of the Capodimonte porcelain works. | Via Miano 2,
Porta Piccola, Via Capodimonte,
Capodimonte | 80131 | 199/199100
for information and tickets for special exhibitions | €8 | Daily 10–7:30; ticket office closes at 7.
Pio Monte della Misericordia.
One of Spaccanapoli’s defining sites, this octagonal church was built around the corner from the Duomo for a charitable institution founded in 1601 by seven noblemen. The institution’s aim was to carry out acts of Christian charity: feeding the hungry, clothing the poor, nursing the sick, sheltering pilgrims, visiting prisoners, ransoming Christian slaves, and burying the indigent dead—acts immortalized in the history of art by Caravaggio’s famous altarpiece depicting
the Sette Opere della Misericordia (Seven Acts of Mercy). In this haunting work the artist has brought the Virgin, borne atop the shoulders of two angels, down into the streets of Spaccanapoli (scholars have suggested a couple of plausible locations) populated by figures in whose spontaneous and passionate movements the people could see themselves. The original church was considered too small and destroyed in 1655 to
make way for a new church, designed by Antonio Picchiatti and built between 1658 and 1678. Pride of place is given to the great Caravaggio above the altar, but there are other important Baroque-era paintings on view here: some hang in the church, while others are in the adjoining pinacoteca (picture gallery). | Via Tribunali 253,
Spaccanapoli | 80139 | 081/446973 | www.piomontedellamisericordia.it | €6, including audio guide | Daily 9–2:30 | Station: Piazza Cavour (in construction: Duomo).
Santa Chiara.
This monastery church is a Neapolitan landmark and the subject of a famous old song. It was built in the 1300s in Provençal Gothic style, and it’s best known for the quiet charm of its cloister garden, where columns and benches are sheathed in 18th-century ceramic tiles painted with delicate floral motifs and vivid landscapes. An adjoining museum traces the history of the convent; the entrance is off the courtyard at the left of the church. | Piazza Gesù Nuovo,
Spaccanapoli | 80134 | 081/7971224 | www.monasterodisantachiara.eu | Museum and cloister €5 | Church: daily 7–13 and 4:30–8. Museum and cloister: Mon.–Sat. 9:30–5, Sun. 10–2 | Station: Dante, Università.
Quick Bites: Scaturchio. While you’re exploring the old part of town, take a break at what the Neapolitans call “the best pastry shop in Italy”— Scaturchio. Although the coffee is top-of-the-line and the ice cream and pastries quite good (including the specialty, the ministeriale, a pert chocolate cake whipped with rum-cream filling), it’s the atmosphere that counts here. In the heart of Spaccanapoli, it’s where nuns, punks, businesspeople, and housewives come to share the good things they all have in common. | Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 19, Spaccanapoli | 80134 | 081/5516944 | www.scaturchio.it.
Worth Noting
Quadreria dei Girolamini.
Off an improbably quiet cloister enclosing a prolific forest of citrus, fig, and loquat trees, the Girolamini art museum is attached to the restored Girolamini church. Its intimate, high-quality collection of 16th- and 17th-century paintings (one of the city’s best-kept secrets) is well worth a half-hour visit. Opening hours are extremely limited and volunteers accompany you on the tour around the church and newly restored 16th century libraries. | Via Duomo 142,
Spaccanapoli | 80138 | 331/4267772
mobile | www.girolamini.org | €9 | Sat. 10–12:30 | Station: Piazza Cavour.
San Lorenzo Maggiore.
It’s unusual to find French Gothic style in Naples, but it has survived to great effect in this church, which was built in the Middle Ages and decorated with 14th-century frescoes. Outside the 17th-century cloister is the entrance to an underground archaeological site, revealing what was once part of the Roman forum, and before that the Greek agora. You can walk among the streets, shops, and workshops of the ancient city and see a model of how the Greek Neapolis might
have looked. Next door to the church is the four-story museum: housed in a 16th-century palazzo, it displays a wealth of archaeological finds and religious art (panels regrettably are only in Italian). | Via dei Tribunali 316,
Spaccanapoli | 80138 | 081/2110860 | www.sanlorenzomaggiore.na.it | Excavations and museum €9 | Museum, Mon.–Sat. 9:30-5:30, Sun. 9:30–1:30; church daily 9–1 and 5:30–7, closed to sightseers during services | Station: Dante.
Where to Eat in Naples
Chiaia
Amici Miei.
$$ | SOUTHERN ITALIAN | A place favored by meat eaters who can’t take another bite of sea bass, this small, dark, and cozy den is well loved for specials such as tender carpaccio with fresh artichoke hearts, and a rice-and-arugula dish featuring duck breast. There are also excellent pasta dishes, such as orecchiette with chickpeas or alla barese (with chewy green turnips), or that
extravaganza, the carnevale lasagne, an especially rich concoction relied on to sustain revelers in the build-up before Lent. Everyone finishes with a slice of chocolate and hazelnut torta caprese. | Average cost: €35 | Via Monte di Dio 78,
Chiaia | 80132 | 081/7646063 | www.ristoranteamicimiei.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and July and Aug. No dinner Sun.
L’Altro Loco.
$$$ | NEAPOLITAN | This place has taken the Naples dining scene by storm, thanks to the innovative cuisine of master chef Diego Nuzzo, a stylish ambience, and a quiet location off Piazza dei Martiri, 10 minutes on foot from the Palazzo Reale. A bar runs the length of the restaurant where salami and other glorious titbits are served. But for the real deal take a table and be pampered with subtle dishes like insalata di
aragosta e gamberi alla catalana (lobster and prawn salad garnished with citrus). Larger groups can book a private room. | Average cost: €52 | Vicoletto Cappella Vecchia, 4,
Chiaia | 80132 | 081/7641722 | www.ristorantelaltroloco.com | Closed 3 wks in Aug. No lunch July–Sept; no dinner Sun.
Fodor’s Choice |
Da Dora.
$$$ | NEAPOLITAN | Despite its location up an unpromising-looking vicolo (alley) off the Riviera di Chiaia, this small restaurant has achieved cult status for its seafood platters. It’s remarkable what owner-chef Giovanni can produce in his tiny kitchen. Start with linguine alla Dora, laden with local seafood and fresh tomatoes, and perhaps follow up with grilled pezzogna (blue-spotted bream). Like many restaurants on the seafront, Dora has its own guitarist, who is often robustly accompanied by the kitchen staff. | Average cost: €60 | Via Fernando Palasciano 30,
Chiaia | 80122 | 081/680519 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. lunch, Mon., 2 wks in Dec., and 2 wks in mid-Aug
.
L’Ebbrezza di Noè.
$$ | ITALIAN | A small bar leads into a larger dining area decorated in the style of a very elegant farmhouse. Owner Luca has an enthusiasm for what he does that is quite moving—as you sip a recommended wine you can sense that he hopes you like it as much as he does. The attention paid to the quality of the wine carries over to the food. Here you can taste delicate carpaccio di chianina (thinly sliced Tuscan
steak), rare cheeses such as the Sicilian ragusano di razza modicana and the local caciocavallo podolico, plus a daily selection of hot dishes. | Average cost: €25 | Vico Vetriera a Chiaia 8b/9,
Chiaia | 80132 | 081/400104 | www.lebbrezzadinoe.com | Closed Mon. No lunch.
Umberto.
$$ | NEAPOLITAN | Run by the Di Porzio family since 1916, Umberto is one of the city’s classic restaurants. It combines the classiness of the Chiaia neighborhood and the friendliness of other parts of Naples. Try the tubettini ‘do tre dita (“three-finger” pasta with a mixture of seafood); it bears the nickname of the original Umberto, who happened to be short a few digits. Owner Massimo and sisters Lorella and
Roberta (Umberto’s grandchildren) are all wine experts and oversee a fantastic cellar. Note that Umberto is also one of the few restaurants in the city catering to those who have a gluten allergy. | Average cost: €30 | Via Alabardieri 30–31,
Chiaia | 80121 | 081/418555 | www.umberto.it | Closed Mon. lunch and 1 wk in Aug.
Piazza Garibaldi
Fodor’s Choice |
Da Michele.
$ | PIZZA | You may recognise this from the movie Eat, Pray, Love, but for more than 140 years before Julia Roberts arrived, this place has been a culinary reference point in Naples. Despite offering only two types of pizza—marinara (with tomato, garlic, and oregano) and margherita (with tomato, mozzarella, and basil)—plus a small selection of drinks, it still manages to attract long
lines. The prices have something to do with it. But the pizza itself suffers no rivals, so even those waiting in line are good-humored: the boisterous, joyous atmosphere wafts out with the smell of yeast and wood smoke onto the street. Step right up to get a number at the door and then hang outside until it’s called. Note: The restaurant is off Corso Umberto, between Piazza Garibaldi and Piazza Nicola Amore. | Average cost: €7 | Via Sersale 1/3,
Piazza Garibaldi | 80139 | 081/5539204 | www.damichele.net | No credit cards | Jun.–Nov. closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug.
Mimì alla Ferrovia.
$$$ | NEAPOLITAN | Patrons of this Neapolitan institution have included Fellini and that true-Neapolitan comic genius and aristocrat, Totò. Mimì cheerfully lives up to its history, proudly serving fine versions of everything from pasta e fagioli (with beans) to the sea bass al presidente, baked in a pastry crust and enjoyed by any number of Italian presidents on their visits to the
city. This is not so much a place to see and be seen as a common ground where both the famous and the unknown can mingle, feast, and be of good cheer. Mimì’s sober beige-and-green hues, accented with updated art deco features, white tablecloths, and retro bentwood chairs, pleasantly tone down the bustle. Given the fairly seedy neighborhood, splurge on a taxi there and back, especially at night. | Average cost: €40 | Via A.
D’Aragona 19/21,
Piazza Garibaldi | 80139 | 081/5538525 | www.mimiallaferrovia.com | Closed Sun. (except Dec.) and last 2 wks in Aug.
Santa Lucia
La Terrazza.
$$$$ | ITALIAN | The Hotel Excelsior’s Terrazza attracts A-list stars visiting the area with its Pompeian-red marble floorings and brown leather furnishings (all aimed at highlighting the gold cutlery, capisce?). A breathtaking buffet that counts as an appetizer would be a banquet in itself for mere mortals; while the à la carte menu creates a fusion of Italian regional culinary styles. Dress up, and expect to be
impressed. | Average cost: €85 | Hotel Excelsior,
Via Partenope 48,
Santa Lucia | 80121 | 081/7640111 | www.laterrazzaexcelsior.com.
Spaccanapoli
Gino Sorbillo.
$$ | PIZZA | There are three restaurants called Sorbillo along Via dei Tribunali; this is the one with the crowds waiting outside. Order the same thing the locals come for: a basic Neapolitan pizza (try the unique pizza al pesto or the stunningly simple marinara—just tomatoes and oregano). They’re cooked to perfection by the third generation of pie makers who run the place. The pizzas are enormous, flopping over the edge of the plate onto
the white marble tabletops. | Average cost: €17 | Via dei Tribunali 32,
Spaccanapoli | 80138 | 081/446643 | Closed Sun. (except Dec.) and 3 wks in Aug.
I Decumani.
$$ | PIZZA | Every pizzeria along Via dei Tribunali is worth the long wait (all the good ones are jam-packed) but none more so than the Decumani, thanks to the superlative pizzaioli (pizza makers)—say hello to Gianni and Enzo for us—at work here. They turn out a wide array of pizzas and do them all to perfection. If you aren’t on a diet, try the frittura and you’ll be pleasantly
surprised with this mix of Neapolitan-style tempura: zucchini, eggplants, rice-balls, and many other delicacies. | Average cost: €10 | Via dei Tribunali 58,
Spaccanapoli | 80138 | 081/5571309 | Closed Mon. (except Dec.).
Folk Songs à la Carte
If you want to hear canzoni napoletane—the fabled Neapolitan folk songs—performed live, you can try to catch top city troupes, such as the Cantori di Posillipo and I Virtuosi di San Martino, at venues like the Teatro Trianon. An easier alternative is to head for one of the more traditional restaurants (such as Mimì alla Ferrovia), where most every night you can expect your meal to be interrupted by a posteggiatore. These singers aren’t employed by the restaurants, but they’re encouraged to come in, swan around the tables with a battered old guitar, and belt out classics such as “Santa Lucia,” “O’ Surdato Innamurate,” “Torna a Surriento,” and, inevitably, “Funiculi Funiculà.”
These songs are the most famous of a vast repertoire that found international fame with the mass exodus of southern Italians to the United States in the early 20th century. “Funiculi Funiculà” was written by Peppino Turco and Luigi Denza in 1880 to herald the new funicular railway up Vesuvius. “O Sole Mio,” by Giovanni Capurro and Eduardo di Capua, has often been mistakenly taken for the Italian national anthem. “Torna a Surriento” was composed by Ernesto di Curtis in 1903 to help remind the current Italian prime minister how wonderful he thought Sorrento was (and how many government subsidies he had promised the township).
Interest in this genre has been rekindled, both locally and internationally, by John Turturro’s 2010 film Passione, which explores the current and historical music scene. Note that singers are more than happy to do requests, even inserting the name of your innamorato or innamorata into the song. When they’ve finished they’ll stand discreetly by your table. Give them a few euros and you’ll have friends for life (or at least for the night).
Fodor’s Choice |
Palazzo Petrucci.
$$$$ | ITALIAN | Nestled in a 17th-century mansion facing the grandeur of Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, Palazzo Petrucci doesn’t lack for dramatic dining options. Choose between tables under the vaulted ceiling of the former stables, in the gallery where a glass partition lets you keep an eye on the kitchen, or in the cozy room overlooking the piazza, where the famous Guglia di San Domenico marble monument soars heavenward. Fortify yourself
with a complimentary glass of prosecco before making the agonizing choice between the à la carte offerings and the menu degustazione (€50). A popular starter is millefeuille of local mozzarella with raw prawns and vegetable sauce. The paccheri all’impiedi (large tube-shape pasta served standing up) in a rich ricotta-and-meat sauce is an interesting twist on an old regional favorite. The decor
is elegantly minimal. The culinary delights here are anything but. | Average cost: €65 | Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 4,
Spaccanapoli | 80134 | 081/5524068 | Reservations essential.
Toledo
Cantina della Tofa.
$ | NEAPOLITAN | Two blocks up one of the narrow alleys that lead off Via Toledo into the Quartieri Spagnoli, this small, welcoming restaurant serves traditional Neapolitan fare that goes beyond standard pasta with seafood or tomatoes. Try the vellutata di cicerchie (a creamy soup made from beans that are a cross between chickpeas and fava beans) or a delicious mix of contorni (side
dishes) prepared by chefs Rita and Andrea. | Average cost: €15 | Vico della Tofa 71,
Piazza Municipio | 80132 | 081/3427973 | www.cantinadellatofa.com | No credit cards | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.
Trattoria San Ferdinando.
$$ | NEAPOLITAN | This cheerful trattoria seems to be run for the sheer pleasure of it. Lunch is served most days, but they only open three evenings a week. Try the excellent fish or the traditional (but cooked with a lighter modern touch) pasta dishes, especially those with verdura (fresh leaf vegetables) or with potatoes and smoked mozzarella (pasta e patate con la provola). Close to
the San Carlo Theater and aptly decorated with playbills and theatrical memorabilia both ancient and modern, this is an excellent place to stop after a visit to the opera. Note that it’s almost the first doorway on the right as you go up Via Nardones from Piazza Trieste e Trento—ring the bell outside to be let in. | Average cost: €30 | Via Nardones 117,
Toledo | 80132 | 081/421964 | www.trattoriasanferdinando.net | Closed Sun. No dinner Sat.–Tues.
Where to Stay in Naples
Chiaia
Fodor’s Choice |
Cappella Vecchia 11.
$ | B&B/INN | One of the city’s outstanding budget options lies just a stone’s throw from the Platinum Card square of Naples, Piazza dei Martiri, now colonized by the likes of Cartier, Ferragamo, and Versace. Protected from the city hubbub by being set on a quiet, cobblestone street (and in a building with an even quieter courtyard), this small B&B has six ample-sized guest rooms decorated in a breezily modern way: expect Ikea
colors, contemporary furnishings, and paintings by local mod artists. Pros: fabulous location off chic Martiri square; friendly staff. Cons: lack of room phones; prefers cash payment. TripAdvisor: “clean quiet rooms,” “oasis in Naples,” “wonderful location and hospitality.” | Rooms from: €85 | Vicolo Santa Maria a Capella Vecchia
11,
Chiaia | 80121 | 081/2405117 | www.cappellavecchia11.it | 6 rooms | Breakfast.
Chiaja Hotel de Charme.
$ | HOTEL | No views, but there’s plenty of atmosphere in these converted first-floor apartments that occupy a spruce 18th-century palazzo. Above the fireplace in the cozy entrance hall, the distinguished-looking chap with the moustache in the painting is the Marchese Nicola Le Caldano Sasso III, original owner of the building, whose granddaughter Mimi now runs the place. Antiques, many of them original to the Marquis’s home, give a personal
touch to the elegant guest rooms (most have whirlpool baths and some are named after the Marchese’s favorite relatives). Along a corridor is a section that was once a brothel (with rooms named for the ladies who then occupied them). The location is tops, a two-minute walk from Piazza Plebiscito and the Royal Palace, and a stagger from the liveliest nightlife in town in the backstreets around Piazza dei Martiri. Pros: central location; on
bustling pedestrians-only street. Cons: small rooms get hot in summer (a/c notwithstanding); difficult to reach by car. TripAdvisor: “lovely,” “pleasant,” “a true hotel de “charm”.” | Rooms from: €100 | Via Chiaia 216 | 80121 | 081/415555 | www.hotelchiaia.it | 27 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Palazzo Alabardieri.
$$$ | HOTEL | Just off the chic Piazza dei Martiri, Palazzo Alabardieri is the most fashionable choice among Naples growing number of smaller luxury hotels. Past an elegant stone passageway, a chandeliered marble-floored lobby opens its welcoming arms with florid flowers, baroque mirrors, painted murals, and shot-silk fabrics. Its impressive size makes the place seem bigger than it actually is; however, the Alabardieri maintains a feeling of
discretion and intimacy. The hotel prides itself on its comfortable guest rooms, especially its marble bathrooms. While not one of the city’s super-duper luxury lodgings, this does have the most coveted location of all, just feet from the Piazza dei Martiri and its fancy selection of shops and restaurants. For some, there is simply no other hotel in Naples. Pros: impressive public salons; central yet quiet location (a rare combination); polite,
pleasant staff. Cons: no sea view; difficult to reach by car. TripAdvisor: “a little jewel,” “great location,” “an oasis among the chaos.” | Rooms from: €150 | Via Alabardieri 38,
Chiaia | 80121 | 081/415278 | www.palazzoalabardieri.it | 36 rooms | Breakfast.
Pinto Storey.
$$ | HOTEL | The name juxtaposes a 19th-century Englishman who fell in love with Naples and a certain Signora Pinto. Together they went on to establish this hotel, which overflows with warmth and charm. Its late-19th-century (but fully-renovated) style makes you feel like a character in a period movie, photographs of 1953 Naples complementing the atmosphere. The simple, airy guest rooms are on the fourth and fifth floors of an elegant
building off the chic Piazza Amedeo. They are always in demand, so book far in advance. Pros: safe neighborhood; near public transportation: option of rooms without a/c with a €8-a-day reduction. Cons: not close to major sights; only a few rooms have views. TripAdvisor: “a step back in time,” “great location,” “an oasis of calm.” | Rooms from: €180 | Via G. Martucci 72,
Chiaia | 80121 | 081/681260 | www.pintostorey.it | 16 rooms | No meals.
Santa Lucia
Fodor’s Choice |
Grand Hotel Vesuvio.
$$$$ | HOTEL | You’d never guess from the modern exterior that this is the oldest of Naples’ great seafront hotels—the place where Enrico Caruso died, Oscar Wilde dallied with lover Lord Alfred Douglas, and Bill Clinton charmed the waitresses. Fortunately, the spacious, soothing interior compensates for what’s lacking on the outside. Guest rooms are done in luxurious, traditional style with antique accents, vibrantly-colored walls, and
gleaming bathrooms. The best ones overlook the bay. You can pamper yourself at the spa, where there are myriad special services (though they come at a price). The famous Caruso restaurant sits atop the hotel, affording wonderful views. Pros: luxurious atmosphere; historic setting; location directly opposite Borgo Marinaro. Cons: extra charge for spa, pool and Internet use; reception staff can be snooty; not all
rooms have great views. TripAdvisor: “old-world charm,” “unbelievable location and view,” “reasonable rooms.” | Rooms from: €300 | Via Partenope 45,
Santa Lucia | 80121 | 081/7640044 | www.vesuvio.it | 149 rooms, 21 suites | Breakfast.
Hotel Santa Lucia.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Neopolitan enchantment can be yours if you stay here, for right outside your window will be the port immortalized in the song “Santa Lucia,” bobbing with hundreds of boats, lined with seafood restaurants, and backed by the medieval Castel dell’Ovo. Even if your room doesn’t have this bay-side view, you’re likely to be impressed by the hotel’s luxurious, quietly-understated polish. The lobby is aglow with antique furniture,
chandeliers, mirrors, and full-length portraits of Neapolitan aristocrats. The comfortable guest rooms are traditional, if somewhat bland (and some are small for the price), but the suites are equipped with whirlpool baths. Just off the lobby, the restaurant Megaris is a good spot for luxe hotel dining. Pros: great views from most rooms; close to the main port, so convenient for trips to the islands and along the coast. Cons: rooms disappointingly boxy; the entrance is on the busy Via Partenope. TripAdvisor: “top notch,” “beautiful,” “great location and service.” | Rooms from: €220 | Via Partenope 46,
Santa Lucia | 80121 | 081/7640666 | www.santalucia.it | 95 rooms | Breakfast.
Hotel Naples.
$$ | HOTEL | You can’t beat the location of this four-star hotel: it occupies an entire block opposite the imposing façade of the Federico II University, with a newly-opened metro station almost outside the door. On busy Corso Umberto I, it’s just a 10-minute walk from either the train station or the port, on the lower edge of the centro storico. Guests in the pastel-colored and wallpapered suites are assured a good night’s sleep, thanks to
large beds and double-glazed windows that ensure silence. The rooftop restaurant (not always open) offers a view of Sorrento and Capri, plus an art deco–style bar serving cocktails into the small hours. Pros: convenient address; fantastic rooftop views. Cons: perhaps too close to the action; not all agree it’s worthy of four stars, particularly the breakfast. TripAdvisor: “sparkling
hotel with class and elegance,” “perfect location,” “a pleasant surprise.” | Rooms from: €135 | Corso Umberto I 55,
Corso Umberto, | Naples | 80132 | 081/5517055 | www.hotelnaples.it | 80 | Breakfast | Station: Università.
Fodor’s Choice |
Transatlantico Napoli.
$$ | HOTEL | Perhaps enjoying Naples’s most enchanting setting, this recently-opened, modestly-priced hotel has promptly zoomed to the top of most travelers’ “dream lodgings” list. Sitting at the edge of Borgo Marinaro’s toy-sized harbor, directly within the shadow of the Castel del’Ovo, it has guest rooms that are fitted out—appropriately enough—in yacht style: all blue and white, with swab-the-decks gleaming wood trim. They stand no
comparison, though, with the view out the windows of the harbor, the Lungomare, and even the grand panorama of Vesuvius at the end of the bay (a vista folks paying $2,000 can’t even enjoy at the luxury hotels just across the pier on the mainland). On top of all this, there’s a superior restaurant aboard (see our separate review). All in all, it’s almost like having your own luxury yacht. Pros: fabulous location; gentle prices. Cons: rather cheap and ugly hotel furniture. | Rooms from: €120 | Via Luculliana 15,
Santa Lucia | 80131 | 081/768842 | www.transatlanticonapoli.com | 8 rooms | Breakfast.
Spaccanapoli
Fodor’s Choice |
Costantinopoli 104.
$$$ | HOTEL | An oasis of what Italians call stile liberty (Art Nouveau style), with impressive colorful glass fittings, this calm and elegant hotel is well placed between the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and Spaccanapoli. Each room is individually decorated. Ask for one with a balcony in the warmer months and enjoy your breakfast alfresco, or opt for a garden room that opens onto the small swimming pool. Pros: swimming pool (a rarity in Neapolitan hotels) and garden; pleasant service. Cons: can be difficult to find from street (look for the sign saying Villa Spinelli, the name of the original building). | Rooms from: €170 | Via Costantinopoli 104,
Spaccanapoli | 80138 | 081/5571035 | www.costantinopoli104.com | 19 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice |
Hotel Palazzo Decumani.
$$ | HOTEL | Opened in 2008, the Decumani is a welcome addition to the small list of higher-end hotels in Spaccanapoli. The look inside this early-20th-century palazzo is pleasingly contemporary—no heavy, ornate furnishings, but instead an emphasis on light and space (both in short supply in old Naples). The services and professional approach are on a par with the grander hotels on the seafront or the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, making the
Decumani a great choice for comfortable lodgings in the heart of classic Napoli. Pros: well located for both transportation links and sightseeing; large rooms and bathrooms; soundproofed windows. Cons: the location on a side street can be hard to find—follow signs from Corso Umberto. TripAdvisor: “very modern,” “excellent service,” “a delight to stay in.” | Rooms
from: €140 | Piazzetta Giustino Fortunato 8,
Spaccanapoli | 80132 | 081/4201379 | www.palazzodecumani.com | 28 rooms | Breakfast.
Toledo
Il Convento.
$$ | HOTEL | In a 17th-century palazzo tucked away in the (sometimes dicey) Quartieri Spagnoli, Il Convento is close to Via Toledo. Guest rooms are small but elegant, with original architectural features such as arched or beamed ceilings. They are decorated in simple, modern Mediterranean style. Two junior suites have private roof gardens. Pros: close to cafés and shops; free Internet access; warm Neapolitan
reception and pleasantly personal touch. Cons: church bells may wake you in the morning; on a busy street; tiny lobby. TripAdvisor: “the ideal Naples hotel,” “great location,” “friendly staff.” | Rooms from: €180 | Via Speranzella 137/A,
Toledo | 80132 | 081/403977 | www.hotelilconvento.com | 12 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.
Palazzo Turchini.
$$ | HOTEL | Adjacent to the impressive fontana di Nettuno, just a few minutes’ walk from the Castel Nuovo, Palazzo Turchini is one of the more attractive smaller hotels in the city center. Its located in an 18th-century building, and the elegant design mixes historical styles, as seen in the combination of marble floors and piperno stairs throughout the hotel. Guest rooms are small but surprisingly quiet (with
soundproofing newly fitted) despite being on a busy street, and many of them offer views over the roofs and domes of the old town. Pros: good location for the port; more intimate than neighboring business hotels. Cons: close to an open building site as construction of the metro drags on. TripAdvisor: “great location,” “helpful staff,” “lovely hotel.” | Rooms
from: €160 | Via Medina 21,
Toledo | 80132 | 081/5510606 | www.palazzoturchini.it | 27 rooms | Breakfast.
Vomero
Fodor’s Choice |
Grand Hotel Parker’s.
$$$ | HOTEL | Set midway up the Vomero hill, this landmark hotel (which first opened in 1870) continues to serve up a supremely elegant dose of old-style atmosphere. Visiting VIPs, ranging from rock stars to Russian leaders, probably enjoy the hotel decor—an homage to the neoclassical style brought to Naples by Napoléon and his general Joachim Murat. Gilt-trimmed Empire bureaus, shimmering chandeliers, fluted pilasters, and ornate ceilings
all glitter. A bit of a walk from its funicular stops, the hotel’s position affords fine views of the bay and distant Capri. Drink it all in from the superb rooftop-garden at “George’s” restaurant, which proffers regional specialties. Pros: excellent restaurant; fabulous views. Cons: a very long walk or taxi ride from city center and seafront; not quite as grand as it once was. TripAdvisor: “warm hospitality,” “excellent staff,” “full of charm.” | Rooms from: €300 | Corso Vittorio Emanuele 135,
Vomero | 80121 | 081/7612474 | www.grandhotelparkers.com | 82 rooms | Breakfast.
Nightlife and the Arts in Naples
Opera
Teatro San Carlo.
Opera is a serious business in Naples—not in terms of the music so much as the costumes, the stage design, the players, and the politics. What’s happening on stage can be secondary to the news of who’s there, who they’re with, and what they’re wearing. Given the circumstances, it’s hardly surprising that the city’s famous San Carlo Company doesn’t offer a particularly innovative repertoire. Nonetheless, the company is usually of very high quality—and if they’re not in
form the audience lets them know it. Performances take place in the historic Teatro San Carlo, the luxury liner of opera houses in southern Italy. In 2008 the concert hall underwent a massive renovation, with everything from the seats to the gold inlay on the ceiling frescoes replaced, and the statue of the mermaid Parthenope (missing since 1969) restored to its place on the building’s facade. | Via San Carlo 101–103,
Piazza Municipio | 80133 | 081/7972412
box office,
081/7972331 | www.teatrosancarlo.it.
Nightlife
Bars and clubs are found in many areas around Naples. The sophisticated crowd heads to Posillipo and the Vomero, Via Partenope along the seafront, and the Chiaia area (between Piazza dei Martiri and Via dei Mille). A more bohemian contingent makes for the centro storico and the area around Piazza Bellini. The scene is relatively relaxed—you might even be able to sit down at a proper table. Keep in mind that clubs, and their clientele, can change rapidly, so do some investigating before you hit the town.
Caffè Intramoenia.
Caffè Intramoenia is the granddaddy of all the bars in Piazza Bellini. It was set up as a bookshop in the late 1980s and still has its own small publishing house with a variety of attractive titles. Seats in the heated veranda are at a premium in winter, though many sit outside all year round. | Piazza Bellini 70,
Spaccanapoli | 80138 | 081/290988 | www.intramoenia.it.
Aret’ ‘a Palm.
Aret’ ‘a Palm is Neapolitan for “behind the palm tree,” and that’s exactly where you can find this agreeably dark bar on Piazza Santa Maria La Nova. Its long marble bar and mirrored walls suggest Paris more than Naples. | Piazza S. Maria La Nova 14,
Spaccanapoli | 80134 | 339/8486949.
Enoteca Belledonne.
The Enoteca Belledonne is something of an institution among inhabitants of the more upscale Chiaia area. Between 8 and 9 in the evening it seems like the whole neighborhood has descended into the tiny space for an aperitivo (cocktail). The small tables and low stools are notably uncomfortable, but the cozy atmosphere and the pleasure of being surrounded by glass-front cabinets full of wine bottles with beautiful labels more than makes up for
it. Excellent local wines are available by the glass at great prices. | Vico Belledonne a Chiaia 18,
Chiaia | 80121 | 081/403162 | www.enotecabelledonne.com.
Shopping in Naples
Leather goods, jewelry, and cameos are some of the best items to buy in Campania. In Naples you can generally find good deals on handbags, shoes, and clothing. Most boutiques and department stores are open Monday 4:30–8; Tuesday–Saturday 9:15–1 and 4:30–8. The larger chains now open on Sunday, too.
Shopping Districts
Most of the luxury shops in Naples are along a crescent that descends the Via Toledo to Piazza Trieste e Trento and then continues along Via Chiaia to Via Filangieri and on to Piazza Amedeo, as well as continuing south toward Piazza dei Martiri and the Riviera di Chiaia. Within this area, the Via Chiaia probably has the greatest concentration and variety of shops (and café–pastry shop Cimmino, on the corner of Via Filangieri and Via Chiaia, makes for an excellent rest stop en route). The area around Piazza Vanvitelli, and Via Scarlatti in particular, in the Vomero also has a nice selection of shops outside the tourist zone. These can be conveniently reached by funiculars from Piazza Amedeo, Via Toledo, or Montesanto. Secondhand book dealers tend to collect in the area between Piazza Dante, Via Port’Alba, and Via Santa Maria di Constantinopoli. Antiques stores can also be found in the latter. The charming shops specializing in Presepi (Nativity scenes) are in Spaccanapoli, on the Via San Gregorio Armeno. Via San Sebastiano, close to the Conservatory, is the kingdom of musical instruments.
Specialty Stores
Tramontano.
Since 1865 Tramontano has been crafting fine leather luggage, bags, shoes, belts, and wallets. | Via Chiaia 143,
Chiaia | 80121 | 081/414837 | www.tramontano.it.
Ferrigno.
Shops selling Nativity scenes cluster along the Via San Gregorio Armeno in Spaccanapoli, and they’re all worth a glance. The most famous is Ferrigno: Maestro Giuseppe Ferrigno died in 2008, but the family business continues, still faithfully using 18th-century techniques. | Via San Gregorio Armeno 10,
Spaccanapoli | 80138 | 081/5523148.
Nel Regno di Pulcinella.
Nel Regno di Pulcinella is the workshop of Lello Esposito, a Neapolitan artist renowned for his renderings of a popular puppet named Pulcinella. | Vico San Domenico Maggiore 9,
Spaccanapoli | 80134 | 081/5514171.
Ospedale delle Bambole.
The Ospedale delle Bambole is a tiny storefront operation with a laboratory across the street. This world-famous “hospital” for dolls, in business since 1850, is a wonderful place to take kids. | Via San Biagio dei Librai 81,
Spaccanapoli | 80138 | 081/203067 | www.ospedaledellebambole.it | Mon.–Fri. 10–3.
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