NOTES
Epigraph. Ovid, “My Eyes,” in Ovid in Sicily: A New Verse Translation of Selections from the “Metamorphoses,” translated by Allen Mandelbaum (New York: Sheep Meadow Press, 1986), 13. Reproduced with permission from the Allen Mandelbaum Estate.
CHAPTER 1. THE ORIGINS OF SICILIAN WINE AND CULTURE
1.Homer, The Odyssey of Homer: A New Verse Translation, translated by Allen Mandelbaum (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1990), 176.
2.Ibid., 178.
3.William Younger, Gods, Men, and Wine (Cleveland: Wine and Food Society, 1966), 91–92.
4.Homer, The Odyssey, 185.
5.Ibid., 492.
6.Michael Gagarin, ed., The Oxford Encyclopedia of Ancient Greece and Rome (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010), 1:235.
7.We use the English name Syracuse throughout the text, except when referring to the province of Siracusa (where the city of Syracuse is located) or to the wine appellation Moscato di Siracusa.
8.Richard Cumberland, “Fragments of Epicharmus,” no. 136 in The Observer, vol. 40 of The British Essayists (London: Wright, 1807), 192.
9.Theocritus, The Idylls of Theocritus, translated by James Henry Hallard (London: Rivingtons, 1901), 58.
10.Ibid., 42.
11.Archestratus, quoted in Athenaeus, The Learned Banqueters: Books I–III.106e, edited and translated by S. Douglas Olson (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 2006), 165.
12.Ibid., 167.
13.Strabo, The Geography of Strabo, translated by H. C. Hamilton (London: Henry G. Bohn, 1854), 1:405.
14.Ibid., 406.
15.Columella, De Re Rustica, vol. 1, translated by H. B. Ash (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1977), 31.
16.Pliny, Natural History: A Selection, translated by John F. Healy (New York: Penguin Putnam, 1991), 153.
17.Younger, Gods, Men, and Wine, 157.
18.Pliny, Natural History: Books 12–16, translated by H. Rackham (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 2005), 203.
19.Andrew Dalby, Food in the Ancient World from A to Z (London: Routledge, 2003), 8.
20.Virgil, The Aeneid, translated by Allen Mandelbaum (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 8.
21.Ibid.
22.Jeremy Johns, Arabic Administration in Norman Sicily: The Royal Diwan (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2002), 26.
23.Ibid., 146–147.
24.Karla Mallette, The Kingdom of Sicily, 1100–1250: A Literary History (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2005), 133.
25.Gianni Pirrone, “Sicilian Gardens,” translated by Lucinda Byatt, in The Italian Garden: Art, Design and Culture, edited by John Dixon Hunt (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2006), 258.
26.David Abulafia, Frederick II: A Medieval Emperor (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1988), 47.
27.Ibn Jubayr, The Travels of Ibn Jubayr, translated by R. J.C. Broadhurst (New Delhi: Goodword Books, 2008), 350.
28.Hugo Falcandus, The History of the Tyrants of Sicily, 1154–69, translated by Graham A. Loud and Thomas Wiedemann (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1998), 261–62.
29.Falcandus, quoted in Mallette, The Kingdom of Sicily, 160.
30.My term wine-dark ages is a play on Homer's stock epithet wine-dark for the color of the sea in the Odyssey.
31.M.I. Finley, Denis Mack Smith, and Christopher Duggan, A History of Sicily (New York: Elisabeth Sifton Books / Viking, 1987), 139.
32.Denis Mack Smith, Medieval Sicily: 800–1713 (New York: Dorset Press, 1968), 157.
33.For a historical account of the social excesses of the Sicilian nobility, we recommend Denis Mack Smith's “The Baronage,” in ibid. We also recommend Federico De Roberto's novel The Viceroys (I Viceré), which was first published in 1894 but has languished in the shadow of Giuseppe di Lampedusa's The Leopard. The Viceroys provides a less nostalgic and more penetrating literary portrait of the Sicilian nobility than Lampedusa's novel. De Roberto, The Viceroys, translated by Archibald Colquhoun (New York: Harcourt, Brace and World, 1962).
34.Denis Mack Smith, Medieval Sicily, 132.
35.Ibid., 149.
36.Ibid., 119.
37.Denis Mack Smith, Modern Sicily: After 1713 (New York: Dorset Press, 1968), 380.
38.Giuseppe di Lampedusa, The Leopard, first revised paperback edition, translated by Archibald Colquhoun (New York: Pantheon Books, 1960), 177.
39.Ibid., 10.
40.Ibid., 73–74.
41.Ibid., 88.
42.Antonino Venuto, De Agricultura Opusculum (Naples: Sigismondo Mayer Alemanno, 1516).
43.Tomaso Fazello, Dell'Historia Di Sicilia, translated by P. M. Remigio (Venice: Domenico and Gio. Battista Guerra, Fratelli, 1573), 1:26.
44.Ibid.
45.Stephan R. Epstein, An Island for Itself. Economic Development and Social Change in Late Medieval Sicily (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992), 179.
46.Paolo Balsamo, A View of the Present State of Sicily: Its Rural Economy, Population, and Produce, translated by Thomas Wright Vaughan (London: Gale and Curtis, 1811), appendix, xii.
47.Ibid., 16.
48.Ibid., 63.
49.Ibid., 66.
CHAPTER 2. THE LOST OPPORTUNITY
1.Domenico Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, edited by Alfio Signorelli (Palermo: Sellerio Editore, 1991), 31–54.
2.Ibid., 55.
3.M.I. Finley, Denis Mack Smith, and Christopher Duggan, A History of Sicily (New York: Elizabeth Sifton Books / Viking, 1987), 162.
4.G.A. Arnolfini, Giornale di Viaggio e Quesiti Sull'Economia Siciliana (1768), edited by C. Trasselli (Rome: Salvatore Sciascia, 1962), 117.
5.Ibid., 118–19.
6.John R. Hailman, Thomas Jefferson on Wine (Jackson: Univ. Press of Mississippi, 2006), 305.
7.Salvatore Lanza, Guida del Viaggiatore in Sidlia (Palermo: Fratelli Pedone Lauriel, 1859), xix. The wine from the higher eastern slopes of Etna was called “vino del bosco” (wine of the forest) and was lower in alcohol and higher in acidity than the “terre forti” wine.
8.William Stigand, Report for the Year 1887 on the Trade of Palermo, Diplomatic and Consular Reports on Trade and Finance, no. 395, Foreign Office, Great Britain (London: Harrison and Sons, 1888), 3.
9.William Stigand, Report on the Wine Produce of Sicily, consular report, no. 143, Foreign Office, Great Britain (London: Harrison and Sons, 1889), 36.
10.Ibid., 40.
11.William Stigand, Report on the Sicilian Vintage of 1889, consular report, no. 155, Foreign Office, Great Britain (London: Harrison and Sons, 1890), 18.
12.Stigand, Report on the Wine Produce of Sicily, 36.
13.Ibid., 3–4.
14.Ibid., 28.
15.Ibid., 17.
16.Ibid., 15.
17.Laura Stassi, “La Fattoria dello Zucco,” accessed July 9, 2012, www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/museodaumale/
museo_PianoZucco.htm.
18.Stigand, Report on the Wine Produce of Sicily, 17.
19.Stigand, Report on the Sicilian Vintage of 1889, 14.
20.Ibid., 15.
21.Stigand, Report on the Wine Produce of Sicily, 28.
22.Stigand, Report on the Sicilian Vintage of 1889, 23.
23.Stigand, Report on the Wine Produce of Sicily, 39.
24.Jessie White Mario, “Prodotti del Suolo e Viticoltura in Sicilia, Parte Seconda e Ultima,” in Nuova Antologia Di Scienze, Lettere Ed Arti (Rome: Direzione Delia Nuova Antologia, 1894), 52:712.
25.Stigand, Report on the Sicilian Vintage of 1889, 13.
26.Mario, “Prodotti del Suolo e Viticoltura in Sicilia, Parte Prima,” 51:654.
27.Mario, “Prodotti del Suolo e Viticoltura in Sicilia, Parte Seconda e Ultima,” 52:719–41.
28.Stigand, Report on the Sicilian Vintage of 1889, 14.
29.Report on the Sicilian Vintage of 1889, 15, 21.
30.Ibid., 21.
CHAPTER 3. THE MODERN SICILIAN WINE INDUSTRY
1.The countries that signed the treaty on March 25, 1957, were Belgium, France, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, and West Germany.
2.“Grapes of Wrath,” Time, April 14, 1975.
CHAPTER 6. VINE VARIETIES
1.Francisco Cupani, Hortus Catholicus (Naples: Apud Franciscum Benzi, 1696), 234.
2.Domenico Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, edited by Alfio Signorelli (Palermo: Sellerio Editore, 1991), 46, 60.
3.Egidio Pollacci, La Teoria e la Pratica della Viticultura e della Enologia, fourth edition (Milan: Fratelli Dumolard Editori, 1883), 260.
4.Cupani, Hortus Catholicus, 232.
5.Sestini, Memorie sui vini sidliani, 37.
6.M. Crespan, A. Calò, S. Giannetto, A. Sparacio, P. Storchi, and A. Costacurta, “'Sangiovese’ and ‘Garganega’ Are Two Key Varieties of the Italian Grapevine Assortment Evolution,” Vitis 47, no. 2 (2008): 97–104.
7.Cupani, Hortus Catholicus, 233; Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, 38.
8.Cupani, Hortus Catholicus, 231.
9.Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, 46.
10.See, e.g., Antonio Calò, Attilio Scienza, and Angelo Costacurta, Vitigni d'Italia (Bologna: Calderini Edagricole, 2001), 448, which cites G. Bambara and G. Nicosia, “Il Malvasia di Lipari,” in Vini d'Italia (1959), 119–25; Daniela Bica, Vitigni di Sicilia (Palermo: Regione siciliana, Assessorato agricoltura e foreste, Servizi allo sviluppo, 2007), 50; Jancis Robinson, Oxford Companion to Wine, third edition (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2006), 423.
11.Giovacchino Geremia, “Continuazione del Vertunno Etneo, ovvero Stafulegrafia,” Atti dell'accademia gioenia di scienze naturali di Catania 13 (Catania: Agatino La Magna, 1839): 63.
12.Cupani, Hortus Catholicus, 234.
13.Sestini, Memorie sui vini sidliani, 40, 60.
14.Baron Antonio Mendola, “Estratto del catalogo generale della collezione di viti italiane e straniere radunate in Favara” (1868), referenced in Salvatore D'Agostino, Annuario della filiera vitivinicola siciliana (Palermo: Istituto Regionale della Vite e del Vino—Regione Siciliana, 2009), 3:42.
15.William Stigand, Report on the Wine Produce of Sicily, consular report, no. 143, Foreign Office, Great Britain (London: Harrison and Sons, 1889), 13.
16.Laura Stassi, “La Fattoria dello Zucco,” accessed July 9, 2012, www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/museodaumale/
museo_PianoZucco.htm.
17.Sestini, Memorie sui vini sidliani, 45.
18.Geremia, “Continuazione del Vertunno Etneo,” 13, 53.
19.Bica, Vitigni di Sicilia, 59.
20.Clemente Grimaldi, “La fiera—esposizione enologica di Catania,” Giornale Vinicolo Italiano Commerciale, Industriale e Scientifico 16 (1890), 326.
21.Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, 60.
22.D'Agostino, Annuario della filiera vitivinicola siciliana, 47.
23.Paolo Balsamo, A View of the Present State of Sicily: Its Rural Economy, Population, and Produce, translated by Thomas Wright Vaughn (London: Gale and Curtis, 1811), 92.
24.Girolamo Molon, Ampelografia: Descrizione delle Migliori Varietà di Viti per Uve da Vino, Uve da Tavola, Porta-Innesti e Produttori Diretti (Milan: Ulrico Hoepli, 1906), 2:587.
25.Ibid., 589.
26.Ministero d'Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio, Bollettino Ampelografico, anno 1875 (Rome: Eredi Botta, 1876), no. 1, 890.
27.Pollacci, La Teoria e la Pratica della Viticultura e della Enologia, 260.
28.Stigand, Report on the Wine Produce of Sicily, 8.
29.William Stigand, Report on the Sicilian Vintage of 1889, consular report, no. 155, Foreign Office, Great Britain (London: Harrison and Sons, 1890), 15.
30.Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio, Notizie e Studi intorno Ai Vini ed Alle Uve d'Italia (Rome: G. Bertero, 1896), clxxx.
31.Ibid., clxxxii.
32.D'Agostino, Annuario della filiera vitivinicola siciliana, 51.
33.Cupani, Hortus Catholicus, 235; Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, 60.
34.Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio, Bollettino Ampelografico, anno 1883 (Rome: Regia tipograhia D. Ripamonti, 1883), fasc. 16, 260.
35.Stigand, Report on the Sicilian Vintage of 1889, 11.
CHAPTER 8. ENOLOGY IN SICILY
1.Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Italian Journey, 1786–1788, translated by W. H. Auden and Elizabeth Mayer (London: Penguin Books, 1970), 247.
2.Giovanni Meli, “Sulla Maniera Di Far Fermentare e Conservare I Vini ne’ Tini a Muro,” in Opere di Giovanni Meli (Palermo: Roberti Editore, 1838), 758–64.
3.Saverio Landolina Nava, Il Vino Pollio Siracusano, edited by Carlo Morrone and Dario Scarfi, translated by Nello Amato (Syracuse: Maura Morrone, 2000) 82–84.
4.Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio, Notizie e Studi intorno Ai Vini ed Alle Uve d'Italia (Rome: G. Bertero, 1896), clxxx.
5.Enrico Iachello, “Il Vino: Realtà e Mito Delia Sicilia Ottocentesca,” in La Sicilia del Vino (Catania: Giuseppe Maimone, 2005), 44.
6.William Stigand, Report on the Sicilian Vintage of 1889, consular report, no. 155, Foreign Office, Great Britain (London: Harrison and Sons, 1890), 12.
7.Felice Lioy, Memoria per la manipolazione dei vini (Palermo: Reale Stamperia, 1800). Available online at http://casarrubea.wordpress.com/2008/11/05/felice-lioy-come-si-fa-il-vino/.
8.Domenico Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, edited by Alfio Signorelli (Palermo: Sellerio Editore, 1991), 49.
9.Jessie White Mario, “Prodotti del Suolo e Viticoltura in Sicilia, Parte Seconda e Ultima,” in Nuova Antologia Di Scienze, Lettere Ed Arti (Rome: Direzione Delia Nuova Antologia, 1894), 52:717.
CHAPTER 9. AT THE HEART OF SICILY
1.Andrea Bacci, De Naturali Vinorum Historia (Rome: Niccolò Muzi, 1596), 5:236, 237.
CHAPTER 11. VAL DI MAZARA
1.Nicola Trapani, Marsala: Il Vino e La Citta dell'Unita d'Italia (Marsala: Enovitis, 2011), 240.
2.Ibid., 247.
3.Giovanni Meli, “Sulla Maniera Di Far Fermentare e Conservare I Vini ne’ Tini a Muro,” in Opere di Giovanni Meli (Palermo: Roberti Editore, 1838), 758–64.
CHAPTER 12. VAL DI NOTO
1.Domenico Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, edited by Alfio Signorelli (Palermo: Sellerio Editore, 1991), 56.
2.Paolo Balsamo, A View of the Present State of Sicily: Its Rural Economy, Population, and Produce, translated by Thomas Wright Vaughan (London: Gale and Curtis, 1811), 91.
3.Touring Club Italiano, Guida Gastronomica d'Italia (Milan: Pol. G. Colombi, 1931), 465.
4.Domenico Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, 56.
5.Balsamo, A View of the Present State of Sicily, 159.
6.Saverio Landolina Nava, Il Vino Pollio Siracusano, edited by Carlo Morrone and Dario Scarfi, translated by Nello Amato (Syracuse: Maura Morrone, 2000), 21, 22.
7.John R. Hailman, Thomas Jefferson on Wine (Jackson: University Press of Mississippi, 2006), 48, 49.
8.Cyrus Redding, A History and Description of Modern Wines (London: Henry G. Bohn, 1860; reprint, Bedford, MA: Applewood Books, 2008), 281.
9.Landolina Nava, Il Vino Pollio Siracusano, 81.
10.Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio, Notizie e Studi intorno Ai Vini ed Alle Uve d'Italia (Rome: G. Bertero, 1896), cxc.
11.Touring Club Italiano, Guida Gastronomica d'Italia, 462.
12.Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio, Notizie e Studi intorno Ai Vini ed Alle Uve d'Italia, clxxxix.
13.Touring Club Italiano, Guida Gastronomica d'Italia, 464.
CHAPTER 13. VAL DEMONE
1.A. Sparacio et al., Nuovi Vini Per il Territorio Etneo (Palermo: Istituto Regionale della Vite e del Vino, 2010), 1.
2.David K. Chester, Angus M. Duncan, and Peter A. James, “Mount Etna, Sicily: Landscape Evolution and Hazard Response in the Pre-Industrial Era,” in Landscapes and Societies: Selected Cases, edited by I. Peter Martini and Ward Chesworth (Guelph, Ontario: Springer, 2011), 249.
3.Tomaso Fazello, Dell'Historia di Sicilia, translated by P. M. Remigio (Venice: Domenico and Gio. Battista Guerra, Fratelli, 1573), 75.
4.Pliny, Natural History: Books 12–16, translated by H. Rackham (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1945), 231.
5.Al-Idrisi, La Sicilia di al-Idrisi ne “Il Libro di Ruggero,” edited by Luigi Santagati, translated by Michele Amari (Caltanissetta: Salvatore Sciascia, 2010), 42.
6.Fazello, Dell'Historia di Sicilia, 285.
7.Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio, Notizie e Studi intorno Ai Vini ed Alle Uve d'Italia (Rome: G. Bertero, 1896), clxxxii.
8.Domenico Sestini, Memorie sui vini siciliani, edited by Alfio Signorelli (Palermo: Sellerio Editore, 1991), 35.
9.Horatio Nelson, The Dispatches and Letters of Vice Admiral Lord Viscount Nelson, vol. 6 (London: Henry Colburn, 1846), 118.
10.J. Pater, “A Memorandum Concerning the Wines of Sicily,” The Tradesman: Or, Commercial Magazine, July 1, 1812: 8–10.
11.Ministero di Agricoltura, Industria e Commercio, Notizie e Studi intorno Ai Vini ed Alle Uve d'Italia, clxxxii.
12.Egidio Pollacci, La Teoria e la Pratica della Viticultura e della Enologia, fourth edition (Milan: Fratelli Dumolard Editori, 1883), 260.
CHAPTER 14. THE GARDEN-VINEYARD
Epigraph. Ovid, Ovid in Sicily: A New Verse Translation of Selections from the “Metamorphoses,” translated by Allen Mandelbaum (New York: Sheep Meadow Press, 1986), 70. Reproduced with permission from the Allen Mandelbaum Estate.
AFTERWORD
1.Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Italian Journey, 1786–1788, translated by W. H. Auden and Elizabeth Mayer (London: Penguin Books, 1970), 220.
2.Alexis de Tocqueville, “Extracts from the Tour in Sicily,” in Memoir, Letters, and Remains of Alexis de Tocqueville, translated by the Translator of Napoleon's Correspondence with King Joseph, vol. 1 (Boston: Ticknor and Fields, 1862), 120.
3.Pierre d'Avity, An Accurate Description of the Island and Kingdom of Sicily, translated by D. Macnab (London: The Booksellers, 1786), 8–9.
4.Goethe, Italian Journey, 279.
5.Tocqueville, “Extracts from the Tour in Sicily,” 115.
6.Alexander Metcalfe, Muslims and Christians in Norman Sicily (New York: Routledge-Curzon, 2003), 236.
7.Antonio Veneziano, Ninety Love Octaves, edited and translated by Gaetano Cipolla (Mineola: Legas, 2006), 11.
8.Giovanni Meli, “Dithyramb: Sarudda,” in Moral Fables and Other Poems: A Bilingual Anthology, edited and translated by Gaetano Cipolla (Mineola: Legas, 1995), 182.
9.Luigi Pirandello, quoted in Nino Martoglio, The Poetry of Nino Martoglio: Selections from “Centona,” translated by Gaetano Cipolla (Mineola: Legas, 1993), xvi.
10.Martoglio, “Dialogue between the Author and His Book as a Way of Preface,” in ibid., 35.
11.Salvatore Quasimodo, “Discourse on Poetry,” in The Selected Writings of Salvatore Quasimodo, edited and translated by Allen Mandelbaum (New York: Farrar, Straus and Cudahy, 1960), 7–14.
12.Salvatore Quasimodo, “Mirror,” in Complete Poems, translated by Jack Bevan (London: Anvil Press Poetry, 1983), 39. Reproduced with permission from Anvil Press Poetry.