Sides
When I was nine years old I ate spinach by the “can full.” What is wrong with that sentence?
It seems strange to me now that growing up in the South most of the vegetables that hit my plate came from a can. I adored spinach but I don’t actually recall seeing fresh spinach in the grocery stores until I was an adult. All of the spinach that I ravenously consumed was from a can. This is strange to me because as you know the South has a rich agrarian tradition. I know Julia Child challenged us as Americans to think beyond the soup can in the 1960s and ’70s but one would have thought that those industrialized canned creations wouldn’t have seeped into the areas of the country that were rich in— if nothing else— fertile soil and a long growing season.
Outside of pondering why that canned food phenomenon occurred, I can only say how abundantly thankful I am that today I can in an instant acquire fresh spinach— whole leaf, baby leaf, on the stalk, or even triple washed— whenever I so desire it at my corner market. What a wonderful thing. And the odds are increasing that my corner market cares enough to source those beautiful leafy greens I love and other vegetables of choice from farms close to home.
It is even funnier to me now that some of the grocery checkout clerks ask, not out of general culinary curiosity but out of the basic necessity to do their job and ring up my purchases, “what is this?!” about my head of garlic or stalk of ginger.
My point is that we have such a bounty of choice in front of us, a wealth of ingredients with which we can play, in our playroom that is a kitchen, that it would be astonishing and sad if we didn’t take great advantage of it.
Near my home in north Alabama, we have a local CSA (community supported agriculture) operation, Doe Run Farm, that produces mind-boggling grandeur from their fields. The variety of tomatoes and root vegetables, peppers, greens and twenty-nine varieties of squash will surprise you with colors that you didn’t even know Mother Nature had on her palette.
I launched a cooking class entitled Cook the Box just because the bounty from Doe Run Farm was so vast that many were confused about what to do with what they received in their CSA box.
What you put on your plate as a side today can be as colorful and attention-getting as the centerpiece on the plate.
My children, go forth and eat well!
Serves 2
1½ pounds baby spinach leaves
2 tablespoons good olive oil
2 tablespoons (6 cloves) garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¾ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
1 tablespoon olive oil
Dash soy sauce
Sea or kosher salt, optional
Rinse the spinach well in cold water to make sure it’s very clean. Dry the leaves with paper towel or in salad spinner.
In a very large pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil and sauté the garlic over medium heat for about 1 minute, but not until it’s browned. Add all the spinach, the salt, and pepper to the pot, toss it with the garlic and oil and soy sauce, cover the pot, and cook it for 2 minutes. Uncover the pot, turn the heat on high, and cook the spinach for another minute, stirring with a wooden spoon until all the spinach is wilted. Using a slotted spoon, lift the spinach to a serving bowl. Serve hot.
Just like the slaw that you love with pulled pork on a summer afternoon but just with half the mayo and the added cool factor (for your friends and your figure) of goat cheese!
Serves 4
2½ pounds green cabbage, cored and cut into 3-inch chunks, then finely chopped or shredded
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 large green bell pepper, finely chopped
1 large carrot, coarsely grated
¾ cups mayonnaise
¾ cup goat cheese, softened
1/3 cup cider vinegar
2 teaspoons sugar
Toss all vegetables in a large bowl with 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.
Whisk together mayonnaise and goat cheese, vinegar, and sugar, then toss with slaw. Chill, covered, stirring occasionally, at least 1 hour (for vegetables to wilt and flavors to blend).
Creamy Fromage Blanc Deviled Eggs
This recipe was given to me by my friend Ann Railsback, who also submitted it in one of Belle Chèvre recipe contests and received an honorable mention. Makes one dozen filled egg halves.
Serves 8
7 large eggs
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
4 tablespoons fromage blanc
1½ teaspoons cider vinegar
½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Salt and pepper
Boil eggs. Transfer eggs to ice water; let sit for 5 minutes. Cool.
Peel eggs and cut in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks. Place yolks in a small bowl and arrange the egg white halves on a serving tray.
Mash the yolks with a fork until no large lumps remain. Add mustard, fromage blanc, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly until smooth.
Fill each egg with filling.
Warm Potato and Belle Chèvre Salad
Serves 4
2 pounds potatoes, Fingerling or Yukon Gold, cut in 1-inch dice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ cup dry white wine
Clove garlic, minced
Salt and pepper, to taste
¼ cup sour cream
1 medium red onion, diced
¼ cup fromage blanc
½ cup fresh parsley
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup Belle Chèvre Confetti
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh tarragon
Steam potatoes until tender. Drain and toss with with wine, salt and pepper. Add cheese, onion, and parsley. Stir together remaining ingredients. Toss with potatoes and serve immediately.
A perfect accompaniment to any spring meal. I like this dish warm or cold, which makes it nice for a picnic.
Serves 8
1 pound orzo, cooked according to package directions
¼ cup olive oil
¼ teaspoon lemon zest
3 tablespoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed
1 cup petite English peas
6 ounces goat cheese
2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
In a large bowl, combine hot cooked orzo, olive oil, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Add peas, goat cheese, mint, salt and pepper, stirring to combine.
Serve warm or cold.
Black Beans with Goat Cheese and Cilantro Oil
This is a great side dish for a meal of enchiladas or tacos. The cilantro oil adds a touch of elegance to the affair, and any oil that remains can be used to make a salsa or vinaigrette. The leftover beans, if you have any, make an incredible filling for quesadillas the next day.
Serves 6
2 cans black beans, drained
1 small onion, chopped
Clove garlic, minced
3 ounces goat cheese
1 cup fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
Purée cilantro, ¼ cup of oil, and salt in a blender or food processor, scraping down sides of blender several times. Pour oil into a sieve set over a bowl and let it drain 15 minutes. Press on the solids, then discard.
Heat two tablespoons oil over medium-high heat and sauté the onion and garlic until tender. Add beans and salt and pepper (add more to taste if desired). Mash with a fork or blend coarsely in a food processor.
Sprinkle warm beans with goat cheese and drizzle with cilantro oil before serving.
Creamy Belle Chèvre Grits with Sun-Dried Tomatoes
Serves 6
2¼ cups chicken broth, low-salt
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) butter
Clove garlic, chopped
½ cup (3 ounces) hominy grits, quick-cooking
¾ cup heavy whipping cream
1 4-ounce jar Belle Chèvre Tuscan Chèvre (drained)
½ teaspoon fresh thyme
Fresh chives, chopped
Salt and pepper
Bring broth, 2 tablespoons butter, and garlic to boil in heavy medium saucepan. Gradually whisk in grits and return mixture to boil, whisking occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until grits are thick and almost all broth is absorbed, whisking frequently, about 8 minutes. Whisk in ½ cup cream and simmer 5 minutes, whisking occasionally. Whisk in remaining ¼ cup cream and simmer until very thick, stirring often, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in Tuscan Chèvre and thyme. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook until cheese softens. Garnish with chives, if desired, and serve immediately.
Asparagus and Green Onion Risotto
This side dish is delicious with Rosemary Roast Lamb (see recipe on page 91).
Serves 4
2 tablespoons butter
¾ cup green onions, chopped
½ teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
1½ cups uncooked Arborio (short-grain) rice
5 cups low-sodium chicken broth
½ pound fresh asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/3 cup Parmesan, freshly grated
Garnish: shaved fresh Parmesan
Melt butter in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat; add green onions and thyme, and sauté 1 minute or until onions are soft. Add rice, stirring to coat. Add ½ cup broth, and cook, stirring constantly, until liquid is absorbed. Repeat procedure with remaining broth, ½ cup at a time. (Total cooking time is about 20 minutes.)
Stir in asparagus. Simmer 3–5 more minutes or until asparagus is tender and mixture is creamy. Stir in Parmesan. Serve immediately. Garnish, if desired.
Puréed Cauliflower with Goat Cheese
Serves 4
1 small head cauliflower
Water for steaming
1 teaspoon garlic, minced
2 teaspoons butter
1 teaspoon thyme
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon black pepper
½ cup goat cheese
Discard any leaves that may cling to the stem, then break up the cauliflower head. Make sure all of the pieces are around the same size so that they cook evenly.
Put the cauliflower in a flat-bottomed skillet (with a matching lid) and enough water around the cauliflower so that it is halfway covered. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover tightly and steam until tender.
Once the cauliflower is cooked, turn off the heat. Using a slotted spoon, put about half the cauliflower in the bowl of a food processor. Add the garlic and process quickly in short bursts of five or ten seconds. Scrape down the sides of the processor bowl and add the rest of the cauliflower.
When the cauliflower looks like mashed potatoes, transfer it to a large glass bowl. Add the butter, thyme, salt, and pepper. Mix thoroughly, and then mix in goat cheese.
Mashed Potatoes with Herbs and Goat Cheese
Serves 4
2½ pounds potatoes, Yukon Gold, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
5 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
¾ cup half-and-half
3 tablespoons fresh basil, oregano, parsley, chopped, or substitute your own combination
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
Cook potatoes in large pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 25 minutes. Drain well. Return to pot. Mix in cheese and butter. Mash until smooth. Add half-and-half, herb mixture, and garlic and stir over medium heat until heated through. Season with salt and pepper.
Celery, it seems, doesn’t get its fair share of time at the table but is most often relegated to Bloody Mary glasses. And that is a shame as it really is a delicious vegetable. I adore this gratin with celery and you will too as a side dish to roast meats.
Serves 6
1 pound celery (8–10 large stalks), peeled and thinly sliced crosswise (about 4 cups)
¾ cup Parmesan, shredded
2 ounces goat cheese
½ cup heavy cream
Coarse salt and pepper
2 slices white sandwich bread
1 tablespoon olive oil
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, mix celery, ½ cup Parmesan, goat cheese, cream, ½ teaspoon coarse salt, and ¼ teaspoon ground pepper. Divide evenly among four 6-ounce ramekins, packing mixture in firmly. Place ramekins on baking sheet, and cover tightly with aluminum foil. Bake until celery is tender, 35–40 minutes.
Meanwhile, tear bread into large pieces, and pulse in food processor until coarse crumbs form. Add remaining ¼ cup Parmesan, and drizzle with olive oil; pulse just until crumbs are coated with oil, 4–6 times.
Remove aluminum foil from ramekins. Dividing evenly, sprinkle breadcrumb mixture over celery. Return to oven and bake, uncovered, until golden, 8–10 minutes more. Let sit 5 minutes before serving.
There are some people who you love despite their demeanor. Mark Furstenberg, a baker of some renown from D.C., is a friend of mine who besides being a curmudgeon is really underneath it all a lovely man and most certainly an inspirational cook.
I first met Mark when I was seated next to him at a large table for dinner at the Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tennessee. I hadn’t known him for more than 90 seconds when, during the sommelier’s speech, he was rolling his eyes and muttering under his breath how much he abhorred all of the laborious minutiae of the wine world. I leaned over to him and quietly, politely, said, “Be nice!”
Apparently he wasn’t accustomed to being scolded but liked the spunk of it nonetheless. We became instant friends that weekend debating all the reasons why he was a grump.
He visited my home in Alabama once, on a mission to help me undo much harm I felt had been done to my son when he had been given Kellogg’s Pop Tarts and fell in love with them. This had to be corrected and Mark took on the challenge to come and bake a homemade equivalent that would be better than the store-bought. It didn’t work, at least not for Kelly.
But what did work is this greens pie he made for me after spotting a rival pie of sorts in the Continental Bakery where the lovely Carole Griffin presides. Mark made me his version and I have been making it ever since.
I have taken a few liberties with his recipe, as his crust recipe, although amazing, is challenging and has some hard-to-find ingredients, in my neighborhood anyway.
I will offer up an easy but delicious crust recipe instead.
Serves 6
Easy Dough Recipe
2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, unsalted, cold and cut in small pieces
3 tablespoons ice water
Blend flour, sugar, and salt in processor. Add butter and cut in, using on/off turns, until coarse meal forms. Add 3 tablespoons water. Using on/off turns, blend just until moist clumps form, adding more water by ½ tablespoonfuls if dough is dry. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic; refrigerate 1 hour. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled. Soften slightly at room temperature before rolling.)
Cook’s note : I will cut the butter in small pats and then freeze. I keep some like this on hand for when a crust might need to come into my life.
On a lightly floured surface, roll 1 dough portion to 1/8-inch thickness. Press into the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prick bottom and sides of dough with a fork. Line with parchment paper and fill with rice, beans, or pie weights.
Bake until crust is light golden brown just around the edges, 12–15 minutes. Let cool.
Remove the paper and pie weights.
Filling
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, halved and thinly sliced
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
1 large celery stalk
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced
1 bag (16 ounces) collards, chopped, parboiled, and drained well
1 pound asparagus, ends trimmed and sliced into 1–2-inch pieces
1 bag (5 ounces) spinach
1 bunch green onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 (15½ ounces) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper, ground
3 ounces goat cheese
1 tablespoon Parmesan
1 large egg
Salt and pepper, to taste
Pinch red pepper flakes
In a large, deep sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add onions, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook until vegetables are soft, approximately 6 minutes. Add bay leaf and thyme, stirring to combine. Add collards, asparagus, spinach, green onions, chickpeas, salt and pepper. Cook until liquids cook off, approximately 10 minutes. Remove from heat, and let mixture cool. Remove and discard bay leaf.
In a small bowl, stir together cheeses and egg. Add mixture to greens, stirring well to combine. Season with salt and pepper and red pepper flakes to taste. (If the greens mixture has excess liquid in the bottom of the bowl, drain it before adding to the crust.)
Spoon filling into prepared pie shell.
On a lightly floured surface, roll remaining portion of dough to 1/8-inch thickness. Carefully place over the top of the filling, pressing dough to edges of the pie plate to seal. Cut an X in the top of the dough to vent.
Bake until crust is golden brown, approximately 20–30 minutes.
Steamed Okra with Lemon Butter
An amazingly simple and delicious side dish.
Serves 4
1 pound medium okra pods
1 tablespoon butter
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Rinse the okra thoroughly in cold water. Place into steaming basket over 1–2 inches of boiling water. Cover and cook until tender, but crisp, about 5 minutes. Toss with butter, lemon juice, and salt. Serve warm.
This is a side dish par excellence. It goes well with any meat, braised or roasted. The potatoes in the recipe help to smooth the purée, which beats plain mashed potatoes any day. Its slightly exotic aroma will have guests begging for the recipe.
Serves 4
3–4 bulbs fennel, depending on size
2 potatoes, peeled and cut into fourths
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
3 ounces goat cheese
1/3–½ cup whole milk or heavy cream
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Trim the tops off of fennel, discard. Cut each bulb into quarters.
Toss with the olive oil and salt and pepper, and roast in the oven on a baking sheet until tender and beginning to brown, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, boil a pot of salted water, and cook potatoes until tender, 8–10 minutes.
Purée fennel, potatoes, and goat cheese in a food processor, drizzling milk or cream until desired texture is achieved. Season to taste, if necessary.
Grilled Brussels Sprouts with Goat Cheese
Serves 4
4 cups fresh Brussels sprouts
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon good-quality balsamic vinegar
4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
Preheat the barbecue to medium-high heat. Using a small paring knife, cut the stem end of a Brussels sprout and peel away the outer leaves. Continue to cut the stem end of the sprout to allow each layer of leaves to be peeled away without ripping the leaves. Repeat this process with all of the sprouts.
Toss the sprout leaves with 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place the leaves on the grill. If the grill grates are too far apart to hold the sprout leaves, place the sprouts in a grill basket. Grill the leaves, turning with tongs to ensure the leaves cook evenly and do not burn, until the leaves are crisp-tender and slightly charred, about 5 minutes.
Toss the grilled leaves with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the balsamic vinegar in a large bowl to coat. Crumble the goat cheese over the salad and toss gently.
Mound the salad in a serving bowl or on a small salad platter and serve warm.
Delicious as an accompaniment to roasted meats.
Serves 6
3 pounds small carrots with tops
1 tablespoon olive oil
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Peel carrots, if desired. Trim tops to 1 inch.
Toss carrots with oil, salt, and pepper. Place on a 17 x 12-inch jelly-roll pan.
Bake at 450 degrees for 20 minutes, stirring once. Reduce heat to 325 degrees and bake, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes or until carrots are browned and tender.
Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Honey and Belle Chèvre Glaze
Serves 6
2¼ pounds red-skinned sweet potatoes (yams), peeled, cut into 1½-inch pieces (about 7 cups)
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter
3 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
8 ounces goat cheese
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Arrange sweet potatoes in 13 x 9 x 2-inch glass baking dish. Stir butter, honey, and lemon juice in small saucepan over medium heat until butter melts. Pour butter mixture over sweet potatoes; toss to coat. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Bake sweet potatoes until ten der when pierced with skewer, stirring and turning occasionally, about 50 minutes.
Asparagus Ribbon Salad with Goat Cheese
Raw asparagus? The idea might sound strange, but when you toss delicate ribbons of asparagus in with a dressing made of olive oil and lemon juice, they begin to soften and take on almost a buttery quality. The texture, along with the acidic bite, is a perfect match for goat cheese. Expect clean plates, even from the most anti-salad eaters.
Serves 4–6
1½ pounds green asparagus, jumbo or regular
3 teaspoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon packed mint chiffonade
¼ teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
2–3 ounces goat cheese
Using a vegetable peeler, peel asparagus into ribbons by starting at the crown of the asparagus and pulling lightly downwards to the end of the stalk. Repeat with all asparagus.
Add lemon juice, salt, pepper and olive oil to the asparagus and toss to coat evenly.
Add the mint, tossing to distribute.
Plate the salads (I find this recipe usually makes about 4 servings, depending on size), then sprinkle the goat cheese on top.
Mac and Two Cheeses with Caramelized Shallots
Serves 4–6
3 tablespoons butter, plus more for baking dish
3 cups (about 6) large shallots, sliced
8 ounces small elbow macaroni (2 cups), uncooked
1¼ cups half-and-half
2½ teaspoons hot sauce (such as Cholula)
2 cups (packed) cheddar, extra-sharp, coarsely grated
1½ tablespoons all-purpose flour
2/3 cup goat cheese, crumbled
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter 11 x 7 x 2-inch glass baking dish. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallots; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and cook 5 minutes, stirring often. Reduce heat to medium. Cook, covered, until shallots are deep brown, stirring often, about 6 minutes. Meanwhile, cook macaroni in large saucepan of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally; drain well. Reserve pan. Bring half-and-half and hot sauce to simmer in same saucepan over medium heat. Toss cheddar and flour in medium bowl to coat; add to half-and-half mixture. Whisk until sauce is smooth and just returns to simmer, about 2 minutes. Mix in pasta. Season with salt and pepper. Spread pasta mixture in prepared dish. Top with shallots, then goat cheese. Sprinkle with pepper. Bake until heated through, about 15 minutes.
Serves 6
Marinated Mushrooms
1 cup olive oil
½ cup balsamic vinegar
½ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon coarse kosher salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
¼ cup Marsala (optional)
4 large fresh thyme sprigs
6 large portobello mushrooms
Filling
1 package (10 ounces) frozen spinach
1 pound button mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup sweet onion, Maui or Vidalia, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup plus 6 tablespoons Parmesan, finely grated
¼ cup dried breadcrumbs, unseasoned
5 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
For marinated mushrooms: Whisk first 6 ingredients and Marsala, if desired, in medium bowl for marinade. Stir in thyme sprigs. Cut stems from mushrooms and place stems in processor. Arrange mushrooms, gill-side up, in 15 x 10 x 2-inch glass baking dish. Pour marinade over mushrooms and marinate 4 hours, turning to coat occasionally.
For filling: Cook spinach according to package directions. Drain; cool. Using hands, squeeze excess water from spinach. Place in small bowl.
Add half of button mushrooms to processor with portobello mushroom stems. Using on/off turns, process until coarsely chopped. Transfer to medium bowl and repeat with remaining mushrooms. Heat oil in heavy large skillet over high heat. Add onion; sauté until beginning to brown, stirring often, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add chopped mushrooms, sprinkle with salt, and increase heat to high. Cook until almost all liquid evaporates, stirring often, about 8 minutes. Season mushroom mixture with salt and pepper. Transfer to large bowl; cool to room temperature.
Add spinach, ¼ cup Parmesan, and breadcrumbs to mushroom mixture; toss to distribute evenly. Add goat cheese and toss gently to distribute evenly. Season filling to taste with salt and pepper.
Cook’s note : Can be made 2 hours ahead.
Cover filling and let stand at room temperature.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Transfer marinated mushrooms, with some marinade still clinging, to rimmed baking sheet, gill-side down. Roast until beginning to soften, about 15 minutes. Turn mushrooms over. Divide filling among mushrooms. Sprinkle remaining 6 tablespoons Parmesan on top and bake until heated through and cheese begins to brown, about 15 minutes.
Roasted Asparagus with Lemon and Goat Cheese
Serve champagne or Prosecco to add an elegant, light touch to this as a terrific brunch item or summertime side item.
Serves 6
2 pounds medium asparagus, tough ends trimmed
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons olive oil
3 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
2 teaspoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed
1 teaspoon lemon peel, grated
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 500 degrees. Arrange asparagus on large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil and turn asparagus to coat well. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Roast asparagus until crisp-tender when pierced with knife, about 7 minutes. Arrange asparagus in single layer on platter. Sprinkle with goat cheese. Drizzle with lemon juice and remaining 2 teaspoons oil. Sprinkle grated lemon peel on top. (Can be prepared 1 hour ahead. Cover with plastic wrap. Let stand at room temperature.)
Serves 6
Buttermilk Cornbread (see recipe on page 69)
8 bacon slices
5 tablespoons butter
3 cups onions, chopped
2 cups celery, chopped
1 cup shallots, chopped
4 teaspoons dried rubbed sage
1 tablespoon dried thyme
1½ cups pecans, toasted, coarsely chopped
1½ cups chicken broth, low-salt
3 large eggs, beaten to blend
8 ounces goat cheese
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Cut cornbread into ¾-inch cubes. Place cornbread cubes on baking sheet and toast until dry but not hard, about 15 minutes. Cool. Transfer to large bowl. Cook bacon in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat until crisp, about 6 minutes. Using tongs, transfer bacon to paper towels; reserve ¼ cup bacon drippings in skillet. Cool bacon and crumble. Add butter to bacon drippings in skillet and melt over medium-high heat. Add onions, celery and shallots; sauté just until pale golden brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in sage and thyme. Add to cornbread cubes in bowl. Mix in pecans and crumbled bacon. Crumble in goat cheese. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)
Stir 1 cup chicken broth into stuffing. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in eggs. Moisten stuffing with remaining ½ cup chicken broth. Transfer to greased 8 x 8 x 2-inch baking dish. Bake stuffing in covered dish for 1 hour. Uncover stuffing and bake until top begins to crisp, about 5 minutes longer.
“Kelly Loves Corn” Corn Pudding
Even before Kelly could say the word “corn” he knew he had found something good. On his first visit to Greece when we took him to meet his Papou and Yia Yia at eighteen months old he discovered roasted corn. It is sold along side streets and even highways in Greece at ancient-looking versions of the now hip “food cart.” Diminutive women in black clothing hunch over small charcoal grills roasting succulent cobs of corn until their kernels are charred and black.
Kelly, my sisters, and I had just spent a day on the beach and on the way home we stopped for a roasted corn. Unable to get his small mouth and teeth to yield the kernels from the cob, Kelly cried and cried, so much so that I ended up biting off pieces to feed to him, just as a mother bird would do with her young.
My sisters and I laughed all the way home at the absurd strength of the demand for corn and the hilarity of me fulfilling it. Thankfully, Kelly is now able to consume his own roasted corn without any help from his mother.
This is one dish that is always requested by name for Thanksgiving dinner.
Serves 6
¼ pound (1 stick) butter, unsalted
5 cups (6–8 ears) yellow corn kernels, freshly cut off the cob
1 cup yellow onion, chopped
4 extra-large eggs
1 cup milk
1 cup half-and-half
1 cup goat cheese, softened
3 tablespoons basil leaves, fresh, chopped
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
¾ cup (6 ounces) extra-sharp cheddar, grated, plus extra to sprinkle on top
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease the inside of an 12 x 9-inch baking dish.
Melt the butter in a very large skillet and cook the corn and onion over medium-high heat for 4 minutes. Cool slightly.
Whisk together the eggs, milk, and half-and-half in a large bowl. Slowly whisk in the goat cheese. Add the basil, sugar, salt, and pepper. Add the cooked corn mixture and grated cheddar, and then pour into the baking dish. Sprinkle the top with more grated cheddar.
Bake the pudding for 40–45 minutes until the top begins to brown and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve warm.
I grew up with lots of legumes— lentils and black-eyed peas emerged as my two favorites. The latter stars in this dish, which has its origins in west Africa and is a meal in itself eaten in a bowl with a little cornbread on the side.
In the South, Hoppin’ John is traditionally served on New Year’s Day for prosperity in the year to come. However, I skip the Hoppin’ or the John, whichever is supposed to be the rice in this combination, and have my black-eyed peas solo. I see no need to dilute my chances at good fortune with a little rice.
Serves 8
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large ham hock
1 cup onion, chopped
½ cup celery, chopped
¼ cup green pepper, chopped
¼ cup red pepper, chopped
1 tablespoon garlic, chopped
1 pound black-eyed peas, soaked overnight and rinsed
1 quart chicken stock
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
Salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons green onion, finely chopped
3 cups white rice, steamed
Heat oil in a large soup pot, add the ham hock and sear on all sides for 4 minutes. Add the onion, celery, green pepper, and garlic, cook for 4 minutes. Add the black-eyed peas, stock, bay leaves, thyme, and seasonings. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the peas are tender but not falling apart, stir occasionally. If the liquid evaporates, add more water or stock. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes, and garnish with green onions. Serve over rice. Pass hot sauce if desired.