PASTA WITH
Caramelized Onion Sauce

½ to 1 cup dry white wine

1 medium bunch arugula or spinach, stemmed and minced

1 cup crumbled feta or blue cheese

¾ lb. pasta (a short, shapely variety like penne or fusilli)

1 cup chopped, toasted walnuts

parmesan

1) Heat olive oil in a large skillet or sauté pan. Add onions, and sauté over medium heat for about 15 minutes. Add salt, lower heat, and continue to cook for at least another 10 minutes (and up to an hour for really deliciously well-done onions).

2) Add white wine, turn heat back up to medium, and simmer uncovered for about 15 minutes. At this point the sauce can be set aside until you are ready to cook the pasta.

3) Turn the heat back on under the sauce when you are ready to cook the pasta. When the onions are hot, add the chopped greens, stir and cook for about 5 minutes. Stir in the crumbled cheese, and turn heat to low while cooking the pasta.

4) After the cooked pasta is drained, add it to the sauce, and stir briefly in the pan before serving. Sprinkle with walnuts and parmesan, and serve.

PASTA WITH
Stellar Mushroom Sauce

30 minutes to prepare

2 oz. dried Chinese black mushrooms

2 Tbs. butter

1 lb. domestic mushrooms, chopped

¾ lb. fresh shiitake, oyster, and/or chanterelle mushrooms, chopped

½ to ¾ lb. pasta (any shape)

1 large clove garlic, minced

black pepper to taste

½ cup sour cream, at room temperature

parmesan for the top

1) PRELIMINARY: Place the dried mushrooms in a bowl. Add 2 cups boiling water, cover with a plate, and let stand 30 minutes. Drain the mushrooms in a cheesecloth-lined strainer over a bowl, squeezing out and saving all the liquid. Remove and discard the stems; coarsely chop the mushrooms. Measure out ⅔ cup of the liquid to use in this recipe. (Save any remaining liquid to use as a delicious soup stock.)

2) Put up some pasta water to boil. Melt butter in a deep skillet or Dutch oven. Add all mushrooms, the onions, and the salt. Cook uncovered over medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir in the sherry.

3) Turn heat to low and have a whisk ready. Slowly sprinkle in the flour, whisking steadily. Keep whisking for a minute or two after all the flour is in. Meanwhile, begin cooking the pasta.

4) Add garlic and black pepper; continue cooking / stirring for 10 minutes.

5) Stir in the sour cream and the ⅔ cup reserved mushroom-soaking liquid from Step 1, mixing well until incorporated.

6) Drain the pasta, transfer to serving plates, and spoon generous amount of sauce on top. Sprinkle with parmesan, and serve.

ITALIAN TOMATO SAUCE

Preparation time: 30 to 40 minutes

Yield: enough for 6 to 8 servings

The classic red sauce, without meat, and with 2 variations. Use any version of this in Lasagne or Eggplant Parmesan, or on pasta of any size or shape.

Make a full batch even if you won’t use it all in one meal. All of these variations keep well up to a week in the refrigerator, and much longer in the freezer.

2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil

2 cups chopped onion

1 medium-sized bell pepper, diced

1 1-lb., 13-oz. can tomatoes

1 6-oz. can tomato paste

1 Tbs. honey

lots of black pepper

4 to 6 large cloves garlic, minced

½ cup freshly minced parsley

1) Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven or kettle. Add onion, bell pepper, herbs, and salt, and sauté over medium heat until the onion is very soft (8 to 10 minutes).

2) Add tomatoes, tomato paste, honey, and black pepper. Use a spoon to break up the tomatoes into bite-sized pieces. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer, partially covered, for 20 to 30 minutes.

3) Add garlic, and cook about 10 minutes more. At this point, the sauce can sit for up to several hours, or be refrigerated for up to a week. Heat gently before serving, and add parsley at the last minute.

MARINARA VARIATION:

2 medium stalks celery, minced

1 lb. mushrooms, chopped

1 to 2 medium (6-inch) zucchini, diced

2 to 3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, chopped

a handful of fresh basil leaves, chopped

Add with Step 1. Sauté until all vegetables are very tender.

CAVOLFIORE VARIATION:

Steam until tender and add to Step 2:

1 large cauliflower, in 1-inch florets

SAUCE PUTTANESCA

Preparation time: 15 minutes

…intensely seasoned tomato sauce with a special guest star: the much-maligned but ever spunky anchovy. Of course, if you are a strict, not-even-fish vegetarian, this addition will be out of the question, and the sauce will still taste fine without it. But if you are a fish-eater, try the anchovies, even if you must overcome a degree of prejudice to do so. You will find that their flavor blends in surprisingly well.

This sauce is quick and easy—it doesn’t require prolonged simmering—so you can whip it up after a busy day of work. Serve over any shape of pasta, accompanied by a green salad and some fresh crusty bread.

1 1-lb., 13-oz. can whole or crushed tomatoes

1 6-oz. can tomato paste

10 to 12 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced

15 to 20 Kalamata (Greek) olives, carved off the pit and sliced

OPTIONAL: 3 to 4 anchovies, minced—OR—1 to 2 Tbs. anchovy paste (can be increased, to taste)

black pepper, to taste

crushed red peeper, to taste

¾ to 1 lb. pasta. (any shape)

olive oil for the pasta

parmesan

freshly minced parsley

for PASTA MEDITERRANÉE: 1 cup crumbled feta cheese

PRELIMINARY: Put up pasta water to boil.

1) For a smoother sauce, purée the tomatoes in their liquid in a blender or food processor. For a chunkier sauce, cut the tomatoes into chunks with a knife, saving the liquid. (Skip this step if using crushed tomatoes.)

2) Combine tomatoes, their liquid, tomato paste, garlic, olives, and anchovies in a medium-sized saucepan, and gradually heat to a boil. Reduce heat, season to taste with black and crushed red pepper, and simmer about 10 minutes. (You can cook the pasta during this time.)

3) Drain the pasta, and toss with a little olive oil. Add the sauce, and serve immediately, topped with parmesan and parsley (and feta cheese, if desired).

About 40 minutes to prepare

Yield: 4 to 5 servings

During the height of the produce season, you can make this lovely dish particularly colorful by pairing a yellow bell pepper with red cherry tomatoes—or a red bell pepper with yellow cherry tomatoes.

If you can’t find Niçoise olives, use Kalamata (Greek) olives, carved off the pit and sliced. If using Niçoise olives, remind your quests to watch out for the pits.

3 Tbs. olive oil

2 cups chopped onion

1 1½-lb. bunch broccoli, in 1½-inch pieces

1 tsp. salt

1 red or yellow bell pepper, cut into 1½-inch strips

2 cups water or vegetable broth

2 Tbs. flour

2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

½ cup Niçoise olives

6 large cloves garlic, minced

½ to ¾ lb. pasta (any shape)

Extra olive oil for the pasta

Parmesan for the top

Black pepper for the top

OPTIONAL ADDITIONS:

• Sun-dried tomatoes, softened in hot water and chopped

• A few dried mushrooms, softened in hot water and sliced

• A handful of lightly toasted pine nuts

PRELIMINARY: Put up some pasta water to boil.

1) Heat the olive oil in a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven. Add the onion, and sauté over medium heat until very soft (10 to 15 minutes).

2) Add broccoli and salt, and sauté another 10 minutes or so—until the broccoli is just tender.

3) Add the bell pepper, stir, and sauté about 5 minutes longer.

4) Add water or broth, and turn up the heat until it boils. Lower heat to medium, and sprinkle in the flour, whisking until dissolved.

5) Stir in the tomatoes, olives, garlic, and optional sun-dried tomatoes and/or mushrooms. Keep the sauce warm while you cook the pasta.

6) Drain the pasta, toss it with a little extra olive oil, and transfer to a serving dish. Pour/spoon in the sauce, and sprinkle with parmesan, black pepper, and optional pine nuts. Serve hot.

Eggplant Scallopini Marsala For Pasta

Preparation time: 45 minutes

Yield: about 4 to 5 servings

OPTIONAL PRELIMINARY: To peel and seed the tomatoes, heat a medium-sized potful of water, then lower heat to a simmer. Core the tomatoes, then drop them into the water for about 10 seconds. Retrieve them, pull off and discard the skins, then cut the tomatoes in half. Squeeze out the seeds, and chop the remaining pulp.

2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil

2 cups chopped onion

2 bay leaves

6 cups diced eggplant (about 1 large eggplant) (peeling optional)

2 medium-sized bell peppers, any color, diced

1 lb. mushrooms, chopped

2 tsp. salt

2 tsp. dried basil (or 2 Tbs. minced fresh)

1 cup marsala or dry sherry

3 to 4 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, chopped (Peeling and seeding = optional. See “optional preliminary” above.)

Black pepper, to taste

10 medium cloves garlic, minced

½ to ¾ lb. pasta (any shape)

Additional olive oil for the pasta

Parmesan for the top

Minced parsley for the top

1) Put up some water to boil for the pasta. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a deep skillet or Dutch oven. Add onion and bay leaves, and sauté over medium heat until the onions soften (5 to 8 minutes).

2) Add eggplant, peppers, mushrooms, salt, and basil. Cover and cook until the eggplant is tender (10 to 15 minutes), stirring occasionally.

3) Add marsala or sherry, tomatoes, and black pepper. Simmer uncovered for 10 to 15 minutes. (The liquid will reduce.) Stir in the garlic during the last 5 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the pasta.

4) Drain the pasta and transfer to a serving dish. Drizzle and toss with a little extra olive oil, and spoon the eggplant mixture on top. Sprinkle with parmesan and parsley, and serve hot.

Pesto

This most-famous potent, green version of pesto features basil, garlic, and olive oil. When tossed with hot pasta (especially long, thin varieties, like spaghetti or linguine), it adheres to each available surface, coating the pasta with intense flavor. This pesto keeps for weeks, or even months, if stored in a tightly lidded sterile jar in the refrigerator.

3 cups (packed) fresh basil leaves

3 to 4 large cloves garlic

optional: ⅓ cup pine nuts or chopped walnuts, lightly toasted

⅓ cup olive oil

⅓ cup parmesan

optional: salt and pepper, to taste

1) Place the basil leaves and garlic in a blender or food processor and mince.

2) Add the nuts, if desired, and continue to blend until the nuts are ground.

3) Drizzle in the olive oil, as you keep the machine running. When you have a smooth paste, transfer to a bowl, and stir in the parmesan. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To serve, place room-temperature Pesto in a warmed serving bowl. Add hot pasta and toss thoroughly. Allow 2 to 3 Tbs. Pesto per serving.

MONDO BIZARRO SAUCE

Tomato-spinach pesto for pasta

This sauce is especially good on pasta with Ricotta Gnocchi.

To peel and seed tomatoes: Drop them into simmering water for 10 seconds. Then retrieve them, and pull off the skins. Cut them open; squeeze out and discard the seeds.

4 or 5 large cloves garlic

⅓ cup fresh basil leaves

⅓ cup minced parsley

1 1-lb. bunch spinach, stemmed

2 to 3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (see above)

½ cup parmesan, plus extra, for the top

½ tsp. salt

optional: ½ cup pine nuts or finely minced walnuts, lightly toasted

freshly around black pepper

optional: olive oil for the pasta

1) Place the garlic, basil, parsley, and spinach in a food processor or blender, and work into a uniform paste.

2) Add the tomatoes, and process just a few seconds more. Transfer to a bowl, and stir parmesan, salt, and optional nuts (or save these for sprinkling on top).

3) Serve the room-temperature sauce with hot pasta (and possibly Ricotta Gnocchi) in a warmed serving bowl. Pass some extra parmesan, the pepper grinder, and if desired, a cruet of olive oil.

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Yield: about 2 dozen dumplings

Serve these savory cheese dumplings as an appetizer or with pasta. You can make and poach them ahead of time. Broil just before serving.

½ lb. mozzarella cheese

1 large handful parsley

2 large cloves garlic

Black pepper, to taste

A little butter or olive oil for the pan

Extra parmesan for the top

1) Fill a large kettle with water and put it up to boil.

2) Meanwhile, grate the mozzarella (the grating attachment of a food processor does this fast) and transfer to a medium-sized bowl.

3) Mince the parsley and garlic—either by hand or in the food processor—and stir this into the grated cheese.

4) Beat together the ricotta and eggs. (You can use the food processor.) Add this to the first mixture, with salt, parmesan, flour, and black pepper. Mix well.

5) When the water boils, reduce heat to a simmer, and drop in small blobs of batter (1 Tbs. each). Simmer for 15 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon. The gnocchi will be soft. Refrigerate until 15 minutes before serving.

6) Shortly before serving, heat the broiler. Brush a baking dish with soft butter or olive oil, and arrange the gnocchi in the dish. Sprinkle with parmesan, and broil until golden. Serve hot.

VEGETABLE PURÉES

5 minutes to prepare after vegetabl e is cooked.

Yield: about 1 cup each. Easily multiplied.

These are the purest of sauces. Made almost entirely from a single cooked vegetable, each purée is full-flavored and a brilliant color. Use vegetable purées in any variety of ways. (Suggestions are included with each recipe.) You’ll be amazed by how good such simplicity can be!

RED PEPPER PURÉE

2 large red bell peppers

¼ tsp. salt

A pinch of sugar

½ tsp. fresh lemon juice

1 scant tsp. minced garlic

Black pepper, to taste

1) Core the peppers and cut them into large chunks.

2) Steam over boiling water for about 10 minutes, or until very soft.

3) Purée in a food processor or blender, and pass through a mesh strainer into a bowl. Stir in remaining ingredients, adjusting amounts to taste.

→ Spoon room-temperature sauce over Stuffed Eggplant or Zuccanoes. OTHER USES: In or on omelettes; on fish, baked potatoes, or other cooked vegetables; as a garnish on soup—or just spread on toast.

NOTE: You can roast the peppers instead of steaming them. Just put them on an oiled tray in a 400°F oven, and roast until very tender (about 20 to 30 minutes). Transfer with tongs to a glass or ceramic bowl, cover it with a plate, and let sit for 30 minutes longer. Remove skins, stems, and seeds, and proceed with Step 3 above.

BEET PURÉE

2 beets (2½-inch diameter)

½ cup apple or orange juice

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbs. cider vinegar

2 tsp. honey

Minced fresh tarragon or mint (optional)

Black pepper to taste

1) Cook the beets until tender. (You can boil them, or roast them on an oiled tray in a 400°F oven.) Cool until comfortable to handle.

2) Rub off the skins, rough-chop the beets, and put them in a blender or food processor with the fruit juices and vinegar. Purée until smooth.

3) Transfer to a small bowl, and stir in honey, salt, pepper, and possibly the tarragon or mint. If necessary, thin to desired consistency with a little extra apple or orange juice.

→ Serve room-temperature sauce over hard boiled eggs, Kristina’s Potato Salad, Zuccanoes, or Stuffed Squash.

CARROT PURÉE

A little oil for the baking tray

3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks OR

1 pound baby carrots

A scant ½ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. cumin (optional)

¼ tsp. minced garlic

1 tsp. minced fresh dill

3 Tbs. orange juice (maybe more)

½ tsp fresh lemon juice

1 cup water

1) Preheat oven to 400°F. Lightly oil a baking tray, and spread out the carrots. Roast for 20 to 30 minutes, or until tender. Remove from oven, and allow the carrots to cool for about 15 minutes.

2) Put the cooked carrots in a food processor or blender with all the other ingredients, and purée until very smooth. (You may need to do this in batches.) For an even silkier result, pour the purée through a mesh strainer into a bowl.

3) Correct seasonings, if necessary. If you’d like, you could thin the purée a little by adding a small amount of extra orange juice.

→ Serve room-temperature purée on cooked aspargus or broccoli; as a garnish on soup; on Crêpes, Zuccanoes, baked or grilled fish, or on whatever else you can think of.

SPINACH PURÉE

1 lb. fresh spinach, stemmed and cleaned

¼ to ½ cup water

¼ to ½ tsp. salt

1) Cook the spinach without added water in a covered pot for just a few minutes—until tender and very bright green.

black pepper, to taste

2) Transfer to a blender or food processor, and add ¼ cup water. Purée until very smooth, and place in a small bowl. Thin to desired consistency with a little more water (or leave it thick). Season to taste with salt, garlic, and black pepper. Serve on cold steamed vegetables, on hot baked potatoes, on baked fish, on cold pasta … etc.

Basic Stir-Fry Sauce

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Yield: enough for 6 servings

Designed to enhance Chinese-Style Stir-Fried Vegetables, this sauce is gingery, garlicky, and thickened just enough to give each vegetable a delicious, deeply flavored coating. You can also use this sauce (minus the cornstarch) for baked fish, or as a dipping sauce for Chinese Green Onion Pancakes.

¼ cup soy sauce

1¼ cups water

1 Tbs. grated ginger

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp. sesame oil

1 Tbs. sugar

1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. cider vinegar

2 Tbs. dry sherry or Chinese rice wine

3 Tbs. cornstarch

1) Combine all ingredients except cornstarch in a small bowl or a 2- to 4-cup liquid measuring cup.

2) Place the cornstarch in a separate small bowl, and whisk in the mixture from Step 1.

Chinese-Style Stir-Fried Vegetables

Preparation time: 20 minutes for chopping; 15 minutes to stir-fry

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

There is no one correct method for stir-frying vegetables, and many of us already have our own individual (if not idiosyncratic) style. But just in case you are new to this, here is a basic method. (If you would like a more detailed description, including methods for cutting various vegetables, there is an 8-page section on sautéed vegetable dinners in the sequel to this book, The Enchanted Broccoli Forest.)

NOTE: Cook the rice or noodles first. Begin the rice at least 30 minutes before you start the stir-fry. (For 6 servings: 2½ cups raw brown rice in 3¼ cups boiling water, covered, for about 40 minutes over lowest heat.) If you are using noodles, cook them just before you start the stir-fry. Use about ¾ lb. (raw measure) vermicelli or flat egg noodles. Drain the cooked noodles, drizzle with a little sesame oil, and, if desired, keep them warm in a 200°F oven.

Here is a sample assortment of vegetables that will feed 4 to 6 people. Remember, the amounts are approximate, and the vegetables themselves are flexible. Use whatever is in season. Harder, firmer vegetables (carrots, broccoli, etc.) take longer to cook and should go into the wok earlier. Medium-soft vegetables (mushrooms, zucchini, etc.) go in midway through the cooking. Very soft vegetables (leafy greens, etc.) go in last.

Have the sauce prepared and all the vegetables cut and at hand before beginning. The stir-fry goes quickly, and you don’t want to overcook anything.

2 to 3 Tbs. peanut oil

1 medium-sized (3-inch diameter) onion, chopped

a 1½-lb. bunch broccoli, cut into 3-inch spears

1 medium (7-inch diameter) head cauliflower, broken or chopped into 1-inch florets

1 large carrot, in thin slices

4 cups coarsely chopped cabbage

½ lb. mushrooms, sliced

1 medium (7-inch) zucchini, quartered lengthwise and cut into 1-inch pieces

a few handfuls fresh spinach

1 batch Basic Stir-Fry Sauce or a double batch of Orange-Ginger Sauce

cooked rice or noodles

1) Heat a large (12-inch diameter or more) wok or a deep skillet for about 1 minute over medium heat.

2) Add oil, onion, and salt. Stir-fry for about a minute.

3) Add broccoli, cauliflower, carrot, and cabbage, and turn up the heat. Stir-fry for about 3 or 4 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to get tender.

4) Add mushrooms and zucchini. Stir-fry another 4 or 5 minutes, or until the zucchini begins to get soft. Add spinach.

5) Whisk the sauce from the bottom to reincorporate the cornstarch, and pour all of it in. Stir from the bottom of the wok or skillet, and keep the heat constantly high. Within about 3 minutes the sauce will thicken and turn all the vegetables shiny.

6) Remove from heat, spoon over rice or noodles, and serve right away.

Orange-Ginger Sauce

Yield: 1 cup

Serve on stir-fried vegetables, on vegetable-filled Crêpes, on plain cooked rice, on fish or chicken, or on Stuffed Squash.

2 Tbs. cornstarch

1 cup orange juice

2 to 3 medium cloves garlic, minced

1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger

¼ cup soy sauce

salt, pepper, and cayenne, to taste

OPTIONAL ADDITIONS:

½ tsp. grated orange rind

1 to 2 Tbs. honey

1 to 2 Tbs. dry sherry

1 scallion, finely minced

1) Place cornstarch in a small bowl (if you’re using this for stir-fried vegetables) or in a small saucepan (if you’re using this for anything else).

2) Add orange juice, and whisk until the cornstarch dissolves. Stir in all remaining ingredients (including optional additions).

3) If you are using the sauce for stir-fried vegetables, stir from the bottom, and add to the wok or skillet about midway through the cooking (see detailed instructions). If you are using this for anything else, place the saucepan over medium heat, and gradually bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Lower heat to a simmer and cook, whisking frequently, until thick and glossy (3 to 5 minutes). Serve hot or warm.

Cashew-Ginger Sauce

Use this quick & easy sauce to plain cooked rice, steamed broccoli, or baked eggplant slices. It’s also a good accompaniment to curries and Stuffed Cabbage.

Yield: 2½ cups

2 cups toasted cashews

1 cup water

2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger

1 Tbs. soy sauce

1 Tbs. honey or sugar (white or brown)

2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. cider vinegar

½ tsp. salt

cayenne, to taste

Purée everything together in a food processor or blender. When it is as smooth as you like it, transfer to a tightly lidded container and refrigerate. Heat gently before serving.

TOFU-BASED SAUCES

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Yield: about ¾ cup

In my search for ways to make sauces without dairy products, I was thrilled to discover something called silken tofu. It is the smoothest edible substance imaginable—and utterly neutral in flavor. Whether it is labeled “soft,” “firm,” or “extra firm,” silken tofu has enough body to be whipped easily into a state resembling thick mayonnaise—and to hold this form, if stored properly, for days.

Here are 4 very simple sauces, made in less than 5 minutes each.

NOTE: Silken tofu comes in little vacuum-packed boxes, and is sold in most natural foods stores. Because of the ingenious way in which it is packaged, it has a long shelf life before it is opened.

For each of the following, use 1 box (10 ½ oz.) silken tofu, soft or firm. Place all ingredients in a blender, and whip until smooth. Store in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator. Serve cold or at room temperature. Each is good for sandwiches, baked potatoes, steamed vegetable topping, artichoke dipping, and anywhere you would use mayonnaise.

Rarebit

Preparation times: 20 minutes

…the old-fashioned Welsh cheese sauce, spiked with beer. Serve this over toast and/or steamed broccoli or asparagus. This also works beautifully as a sauce for baked or boiled potatoes.

2 Tbs. butter

2 Tbs. flour

1 tsp. dry mustard

1½ cups beer or ale, at room temperature (OK if flat)

1 packed cup grated cheddar (about ½ lb.)

1 tsp. prepared horseradish

salt, black pepper, and cayenne—to taste

UNDERNEATH THE SAUCE:

toast, and/or steamed broccoli or asparagus, and/or baked or boiled potatoes

NEXT TO, OR ON TOP OF, THE SAUCE:

chunks of ripe tomato

slices of tart apple

chopped, toasted walnuts

1) Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepan. Sprinkle in the flour and dry mustard, whisking constantly.

2) Add the beer or ale, and keep whisking as you bring it to a boil. Lower the heat, and simmer for about 10 minutes, mixing frequently.

3) Add the remaining ingredients, and stir until the cheese melts. Serve hot over thick slices of toast (sourdough, rye, or pumpernickel are especially good) or over steamed vegetables and/or cooked potatoes. Garnish with tomatoes or apples, and if it appeals to you, a few toasted walnuts.

Nachos Sauce

Preparation time: 50 minutes

Watch this sauce turn plain beans, rice, and tortillas into a special meal. Serve with a green salad topped with Guacamole.

TO PEEL AND SEED THE TOMATOES: Cut out the cores, and immerse the tomatoes in simmering water for a slow count of 10. Retrieve the tomatoes, peel them, and cut them open. Squeeze out and discard the seeds; chop the remaining pulp.

2 Tbs. olive oil

1½ cups chopped onion

¾ tsp. salt

1 tsp. cumin

½ tsp. coriander

¼ tsp. cayenne

1 large bell pepper, diced

3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (see above)

2 Tbs. flour

12 oz. beer or ale (not too bitter) (OK if flat), at room temperature

3 medium cloves garlic, minced

1 to 2 tsp. sugar, it necessary (if the beer is still too bitter in spite of your best intentions)

2 cups (packed) mild white cheese (can be reduced or omitted)

optional: freshly minced cilantro, for the top

1) Heat olive oil in a medium-sized saucepan. Add onion and salt, and sauté for 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft.

2) Add cumin, coriander, cayenne, bell pepper, and tomatoes. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes. The peppers should be very tender.

3) Whisk in the flour, making sure all the lumps dissolve. Stir in the beer, bring to a boil, then lower heat to a simmer. Cook gently, uncovered for about 15 minutes. Stir in the garlic; cook 5 minutes more. Taste, and add sugar, if needed.

4) Add the cheese, stirring until it melts. Serve hot over beans and rice (or cooked vegetables or whatever) with freshly steamed tortillas. Sprinkle freshly minced cilantro over the top.

MEXICAN RED SAUCE

Preparation time: about 30 minutes mostly for simmering

Yield: enough for 6 servings of Enchiladas and 8 servings of Tostadas

2 tsp. olive oil

1 cup minced onion

½ tsp. salt

1½ tsp. cumin

2 tsp. chili powder

3 cups chopped tomatoes (4 to 6 medium-sized ones)—peeling and seeding optional (see instructions)

1 cup water or tomato juice

black pepper and cayenne, to taste

4 to 6 medium cloves garlic, minced

optional: freshly minced cilantro, for the top

1) Heat olive oil in a medium-sized saucepan. Add onion and salt, and sauté over medium heat for about 5 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Add cumin and chili powder, and sauté about 5 minutes more.

2) Add chopped tomatoes and water or juice. Bring to a boil, partially cover, and lower heat. Simmer at least 30 minutes (or even longer). Add the black pepper, cayenne, and garlic at any time during the cooking. (The later you add the garlic, the more distinct its presence.) Add the cilantro when you are finished cooking the sauce.

3) The sauce can be left in chunky form, or you can purée all or part of it in a blender or food processor.

HOT SAUCE VARIATION:

Follow the recipe for Mexican Red Sauce. When you sauté the onion, add 1 Tbs. or more crushed red pepper or 1 to 2 tsp. finely minced serrano or jalapeño chilies. (Be very careful to wash your hands thoroughly after handling any part of the chilies, or even after thinking about them.)

SALSA FRESCA

Great as a dip for chips, with any bean dish, next to omelettes, with plain rice, on top of Tostadas, or in partnership with Zingy Bean Dip or Guacamole. If you eat chicken or fish, try serving the Pineapple or Mango Salsa alongside—they make exquisite relishes.

Pineapple Salsa

15 minutes to prepare (w/ fresh pineapple) OR 5 minutes (w/ canned)
Yield: 2 cups

2 cups minced fresh (or canned-in-juice) pineapple

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

2 to 3 Tbs. minced fresh mint

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

¼ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. cumin

Combine everything, cover tightly, and refrigerate. This keeps a long time.

For an exotic taste sensation, try spooning a little of this onto a bowlful of Brazilian Black Bean Soup.

Mango Salsa

10 minutes to prepare
Yield: ½ cups

2 Tbs. finely minced red onion

2 cups boiling water

1 average-sized (about 6 inches long) ripe mango (if you’re lucky enough to find one)—about 1½ cups minced

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

2 Tbs. minced fresh cilantro

optional: cayenne, to taste

Place the minced onion in a small strainer over a bowl. Slowly pour the boiling water over the onion, then let it sit for 5 minutes. This will soften its bite, and turn it a striking shade of purple-pink.

Combine all ingredients and mix gently. Cover tightly and refrigerate.

Tomato Salsa

10 minutes to prepare
Yield: 1½ to 2 cups

3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes

2 scallions, finely minced

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

a handful of parsley, finely minced

a handful of cilantro, finely minced

1 tsp. lightly toasted cumin seeds

¾ to 1 tsp. salt

1 Tbs. cider vinegar

1 Tbs. olive oil

1 Tbs. fresh lime juice

crushed red pepper, to taste

Drop the tomatoes into a potful of simmering water for 10 seconds. Take them out, pull off the skins, and squeeze out the seeds. Dice the remaining pulp. Combine everything in a small bowl or container. Cover tightly and chill.

NOTE: To toast the cumin seeds, use a small skillet over a low flame or a toaster oven. With either method, watch them carefully so they won’t scorch.

Preparation time: 10 minutes to assemble; 30 minutes to simmer

Yield: about 2 cups

You can buy duck or plum sauce in most Asian groceries, but homemade is easy—and distinctly better. Keep this around to use as a condiment for many different things. You can mix Eastern metaphors by serving this alongside Thai Salad or Indonesian Rice Salad, or with Samosas. Duck Sauce is also good with squash casseroles or Stuffed Squash.

This keeps very well for weeks if stored in a sterile airtight container in the refrigerator.

5 cups mixed peeled, chopped fruit (apples, pears, peaches, and/or plums)

1 cup water

¼ cup cider vinegar

¼ cup (packed) light brown sugar

¼ tsp. salt

2 to 3 medium cloves garlic, minced

½ tsp. dry mustard

optional: up to ½ tsp. crushed red pepper

1) Combine everything in a medium-sized saucepan and bring to a boil.

2) Turn the heat down, and simmer uncovered until all the fruit is very soft (about 30 minutes).

3) Cool thoroughly, then chill.

CHUTNEY

Serve chutney with any Indian dish (starting with recipes on this page), and with whatever else you can think of: sandwiches (see recipes starting on this page), soups, stews, and if you are not a vegetarian, with fish or chicken.

These 2 chutneys are easy to make. Just combine everything in a saucepan, bring it to a boil, and let it simmer. It’s hard to go wrong. Preparation time for each: a few minutes to assemble, plus 45 minutes to cook. Then cool and chill. Yield: about 1½ cups each. Chutney keeps very well in the refrigerator if kept in a sterile, tightly lidded jar—and it goes a long way.

APPLE CHUTNEY

1½ lbs. tart apples

1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger

1 tsp. cinnamon

1 tsp. cloves or allspice

½ cup (packed) brown sugar

⅓ cup cider vinegar

1) Coarsely chop the apples (peeling is optional). Place them in a medium-sized saucepan with all remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to a simmer.

2) Simmer uncovered for about 45 minutes, or until everything is very soft. Cool, then transfer to a sterile jar with a lid. Chill.

TOMATO CHUTNEY

2 lbs. unripe tomatoes (about 6 medium-sized ones, the greener, the better)

2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger

1 tsp. mustard seeds

1 tsp. cumin seeds

1 tsp. coriander (optional)

¾ tsp. salt

¼ cup cider vinegar

¼ cup (packed) brown sugar

¼ cup white sugar

1) Dice the tomatoes, and place them in a medium-sized saucepan with all remaining ingredients, except the garlic.

2 Tbs. minced garlic

2) Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer uncovered for 45 minutes or until everything is well mingled and very soft. Add the garlic during the last 5 or 10 minutes of cooking. Cool, then transfer to a sterile jar with a lid, and chill.

RAITA

Preparation time: just a few minutes

Yield: 2 cups (serves 6)

One of the many condiments served in a traditional Indian meal, Raita is a yogurt preparation with small amounts of seasoning and a hint of minced or grated fresh vegetables. It is designed to cool and relax the palate between bites of heavier, more intensely seasoned dishes. Serve Raita with any curry (see recipes starting on this page) or with Samosas or with Gingered Carrot Soup or Curried Squash and Mushroom Soup. This can be put together in just minutes.

NOTE: For a deeper flavor, the cumin and optional fennel seeds can be lightly toasted first. Cook them without oil in a small, heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, for about a minute—or until they give off a toasty aroma.

2 cups yogurt

1 tsp. cumin seeds

salt and cayenne, to taste

OPTIONAL ADDITIONS (add some or all):

1 small cucumber (about 5 inches long), peeled, seeded, and minced or grated

1 small ripe tomato, diced

¼ cup finely minced onion

½ cup finely minced bell pepper (any color)

½ tsp. fennel seeds

Combine everything in a small bowl and mix gently. Cover tightly, and refrigerate until serving time.

HUMMUS

10 minutes to prepare (after chick peas are cooked)

Yield: about 3½ cups (6 to 8 servings)

A tangy and delicious chick pea purée from the Middle East, Hummus is a perfect dip or sandwich spread, and an ideal component for a Mezza. Preparation is super-quick if you use a food processor.

NOTE: This recipe calls for 3 cups cooked chick peas. You can soak and cook dry ones, but canned work just as well.

2 to 3 medium cloves garlic, sliced

a large handful of parsley

2 healthy scallions, in 1-inch pieces

3 cups cooked chick peas (two 15 ½-oz. cans, rinsed and well drained)

6 Tbs. tahini

6 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

¾ to 1 tsp. salt (to taste)

optional: cayenne and a little cumin, to taste

1) Place garlic, parsley, and scallions in a food processor or blender, and mince

2) Add chick peas, tahini, lemon juice, and salt, and purée to a thick paste. (You can also do the mincing and mashing by hand. The Hummus will have a coarser texture, but that can be nice, too.)

3) Season to taste, if desired, with cayenne and cumin (and correct the salt, if necessary). Transfer to a tightly lidded container and chill.

MEZZA

In Middle Eastern and some Balkan cuisines, it is common to serve a variety of appetizers, dips, salads, and garnishes on a platter (or several platters) at the beginning of a festive meal—or as the meal itself. Here is a list of the dishes in this book that could be used in any combination to make a Mezza at home for your family and friends. Don’t forget to garnish lavishly—make it beautiful! Serve with Pita Bread and/or sesame crackers.

Balkan Cucumber Salad

Stuffed Grape Leaves

Garnishes:

small sprigs of fresh herbs (parsley, mint, thyme, marjoram, dill, cilantro)

pepperoncini

Kalamata olives

radishes, plus small, artful cuts of other vegetables

feta cheese

cherry tomatoes

beautiful red pomegranate seeds sprinkled over the top of everything

10 minutes to prepare
Yield: about 6 servings

Feta-Walnut Dip

1 cup chopped walnuts

a handful of fresh parsley

1 cup crumbled feta cheese

½ cup water or milk

optional: 1 small clove of garlic

1 tsp. paprika

a little oregano (dried, or even better : a few fresh sprigs)

a little olive oil

1) Place the walnuts and parsley in a blender or food processor, and blend with a series of quick spurts.

2) When the nuts are ground, add remaining ingredients except olive oil and oregano, and purée until smooth.

3) Transfer to a small serving bowl, cover tightly, and chill. Just before serving, drizzle the top with a little olive oil, and garnish with small sprigs of fresh (or a light sprinkling of dried) oregano. Serve on sesame crackers or toasted pita wedges, or as a dip for raw vegetables.

Vegetable-Walnut Pâté

30 minutes to prepare

It really does taste like chopped liver.

1 Tbs. vegetable oil

½ cup minced onion

1½ cups chopped fresh green beans

2 hardboiled eggs (yolks may be omitted)

¼ cup chopped walnuts

1 to 2 Tbs. white wine—or 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

1 to 2 Tbs. Mayonnaise

black pepper, to taste

a handful of parsley

1) Heat oil in a small skillet. Add onion and salt, and sauté over medium heat for about 10 minutes—until the onion begins to brown. Add the green beans, and sauté until they are tender (another 8 to 10 minutes).

2) Combine everything in a blender or food processor and grind into a uniform paste. (You can also chop or mash it by hand, à la countless grandmothers.) Serve as an appetizer with crackers and raw vegetables, or as a great sandwich spread.

YOGURT CHEESE

Yogurt can be made into a lovely soft cheese by simply pressing out much of its water. You can use lowfat or even nonfat yogurt, and still, the resulting cheese will be thick and rich tasting.

The procedure:

1) Start with double the amount you want to end up with. So, in order to get 1 cup of yogurt cheese, use 2 cups of yogurt. Place a colander in the sink, and line it with about 6 layers of cheesecloth, cut to about 10 inches.

2) Place the yogurt in the cheesecloth, wrap the cloth around it, and secure it tightly with a clip or a bag tie.

3) Place a 2- to 3-lb. bag of beans on top, and let it sit there for at least 6 to 8 hours. The water from the yogurt will slowly drip out the bottom, and the creamy solids will remain. (NOTE: The longer it sits, weighted and dripping, the thicker the cheese will be.)

4) Remove the cheesecloth, wrap the cheese well, and refrigerate. To serve, top with a drizzle of olive oil and small amounts of freshly minced herbs (marjoram, dill, parsley, chives) or just a little salt and some freshly around pepper. Serve as an appetizer (see Mezza) or keep on hand for sandwiches.

Wicked Garlic Dip

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Yield: about 2 cups (a little goes a long way)

3 medium (average fist-sized) potatoes, peeled and diced

3 medium cloves garlic, peeled

up to ⅓ cup mayonnaise (see Tofu Mayo and Plain Fake Mayo)

½ tsp. salt

1) Boil the potatoes until very soft, and drain well. Transfer to a food processor fitted with the steel blade, or to a mixing bowl.

2) Without waiting for the potatoes to cool, add the remaining ingredients. Whip until very smooth, using either the food processor or an electric mixer.

3) Cover tightly and chill. Serve as an appetizer (see Mezza) or by itself, garnished with raw vegetables, or as a spread (great on sesame crackers or toasted pita wedges).

Tahini-Lemon Sauce

Yield: 1 to 2 cups

Make a batch of this on a regular basis—it’s remarkably quick and easy. It can be thinned down to the consistency of a salad dressing (try it on romaine lettuce with chunks of ripe tomato and Kalamata olives) or left thick enough to be either a spread or a dip for raw vegetables and crackers. Find a consistency somewhere between thick and thin, and use it as a sauce for steamed greens, carrots, and cauliflower. Serve it with Felafel, or drizzled over Hummus in a pita bread sandwich. Tahini-Lemon Sauce is as indispensable as it is hard to categorize. By the way, another attribute: it keeps for weeks if stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container.

¾ cup sesame tahini

5 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 small to medium clove garlic, minced

¾ to 1½ cups water (depending on desired thickness)

½ to 1 tsp. salt, to taste (will vary with amount of water used)

a handful of very finely minced fresh parsley

optional: cayenne, to taste

1) Place tahini, lemon juice, and garlic in a food processor fitted with the steel blade. (You can also use a blender.) Begin to process.

2) Keeping the motor running, slowly drizzle in the water, checking every now and then to monitor the consistency. When it is as thick / thin as you want it, turn off the machine.

3) Transfer to a small bowl or container, and season to taste with salt, parsley, and, if desired, cayenne. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready for use.

EGGPLANT DIPS

Baba Ganouj

40 minutes to prepare

The classic Middle Eastern eggplant appetizer, plus a few variations on the theme. The instructions call for baking the eggplant, but if you have the opportunity to grill it over hot coals or to roast it over a direct flame, the Baba Ganouj will taste even better.

a little oil, for the baking sheet

1 medium (7-inch) eggplant

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

¼ cup sesame tahini

black pepper and cayenne, to taste

olive oil for the top

freshly minced parsley for the top

1) Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a baking sheet.

2) Slice the eggplant in half lengthwise, and place face-down on the baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes or until very tender. Cool until it’s comfortable to handle.

3) Scoop out the eggplant pulp, and discard the skin. Place the pulp in a food processor or blender, and add the garlic, lemon juice, tahini, and salt. Purée until smooth. (Another alternative is to mash by hand, leaving the eggplant a little chunky.)

4) Transfer to an attractive serving dish, cover tightly, and chill. Drizzle the top with a little olive oil and sprinkle with minced parsley just before serving. Serve with crackers. (Also, see Mezza.)

VARIATIONS:

1 Tbs. olive oil

1 cup finely minced onion

½ lb. mushrooms, minced

½ tsp. salt

1 tsp. dill

Heat olive oil in a small skillet. Add everything else and sauté 10 to 15 minutes, or until tender. Stir into puréed eggplant mixture.

II.

½ cup firm yogurt or Greek Lemon Sauce

½ tsp. cumin

Add to purée; mix well.

Spicy Eggplant Relish

45 minutes to prepare / Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Serve this as an accompaniment to any curry, with Samosas, Hummus, Felafel, or Tabouli. It is also good on plain crackers or as a dip for raw vegetables.

2 Tbs. olive oil

1 cup minced onion

1 medium eggplant (7 to 8 inches long), diced

½ tsp. salt

½ tsp. cumin

1 medium-sized bell pepper, minced

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1 Tbs. lemon juice

cayenne, to taste

1) Heat olive oil in a medium-sized skillet. Add onion, eggplant, salt, and cumin, and sauté over medium heat for 15 to 20 minutes—until the eggplant is tender.

2) Add bell pepper, and sauté for about 10 minutes more.

3) Stir in garlic and lemon juice. Cook for about 5 more minutes. Add cayenne to taste, and adjust the salt, if necessary. You can leave it chunky or mash a little bit by hand. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold.

Zingy Bean Dip

Preparation time: less than 10 minutes

Yield: about 2 cups

It’s hard to find anything new to say in the Bean Dip Department, but this one gets a few words in.

Canned pinto beans work so well in here that I encourage you to use them. Be sure to rinse and drain them well. If you also use a food processor, this recipe will be very quick.

Serve it with chips, vegetables, crackers, or warmed flour tortillas. Pair it with any Salsa Fresca for some serious appetizer activity.

To peel and seed a tomato: Drop it into a pan of boiling water for 10 seconds. Remove it, and peel off the skin. Cut the tomato open; squeeze out and discard the seeds. Chop the remaining pulp.

2 cups cooked pinto beans (one 15-oz. can), rinsed and well drained

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

1 medium-sized tomato, peeled and seeded (see paragraph above)

1 to 2 medium cloves garlic, minced

a handful of parsley

a handful of cilantro

¾ tsp. cumin

optional: 1 scallion, minced

¼ to ½ tsp. salt

black pepper and cayenne, to taste

Whip it all up together in a food processor or a blender.

CHINESE PEANUT SAUCE

Preparation time: about 10 minutes

Yield: 1 potent cup

This sauce is verrrry intense! Try it as a dip for raw and/or lightly steamed vegetables, or as a dressing for cold cooked noodles (you can thin it with a little water for this). You can also use it for Eggplant and Peppers in Spicy Peanut Sauce, and serve it as an appetizer.

½ cup good peanut butter

½ cup water

2 Tbs. soy sauce

2 Tbs. sugar

3 medium cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp. cider vinegar

1 to 2 Tbs. minced fresh cilantro

cayenne, to taste

salt, to taste (if peanut butter is unsalted)

1) Place peanut butter in a small bowl. Add the hot water, and stir patiently with a spoon or a small whisk until uniformly mixed.

2) Stir in remaining ingredients and mix well. Cover tightly and refrigerate. Let come to room temperature before serving.

Eggplant & Peppers in Spicy Peanut Sauce

30 minutes to prepare

Yield: 6 servings

a little oil, for the baking tray

1 medium (7-inch) eggplant, unpeeled, and cut into inch-thick strips, then into 2-inch pieces

salt

1 large bell pepper—any color, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 recipe Chinese Peanut Sauce

1) Preheat oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a baking tray.

2) Spread the eggplant pieces on the tray and salt lightly. Let stand 10 minutes.

3) Bake the eggplant until tender (about 15 minutes). (Prepare the sauce during this time.) During the last 5 minutes of baking, add the pepper pieces to the tray.

4) Cool the vegetables to room temperature, then transfer to a bowl or container. Add the Chinese Peanut Sauce and mix gently. Serve at room temperature or cold.

Guacamole