Charcoal-baked potato and fresh herb gnocchi

A great way to cook baked potatoes is to nestle them among the coals you’re using to barbecue something else until the skin crisps and the flesh is soft and tender. This slow charcoal-baking really intensifies the potato flavour, and gives gnocchi made from them a distinctive smokiness. With plenty of fresh herbs and a final tossing with smoked butter or pan-frying in olive oil, these gnocchi make a great accompaniment to lighter dishes.

Serves 4

A plastic piping bag is handy here

1kg (2¼lb) Desiree potatoes

200g (1½ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 Tbsp chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, dill, mint, tarragon

50g (3½ Tbsp) Smoked butter, or a lug of olive oil

sea salt and black pepper

Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking.

Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, then wrap them individually in foil, adding a good sprinkle of sea salt. Nestle the potatoes among the hot coals and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for 1½ hours or until the potatoes are tender and soft – the skin will be crisp, so insert a small knife into the flesh to check it’s done.

Remove the potatoes from the barbecue and when they are just cool enough to handle, scoop out the potato flesh and press it through a potato ricer or masher into a bowl. (Eat the potato skins as a snack with some alioli – delicious!)

While the potato flesh is still warm, mix in the sifted flour and eggs to form a dough. The consistency should be similar to bread dough; if it feels too wet, add a touch more flour. Season with salt and pepper and mix in the herbs.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil on the stovetop, then turn down to a simmer. Take a small piece of gnocchi dough and drop it into the water. After a minute or so, it should rise to the surface, which indicates it is cooked. Scoop it out with a slotted spoon and taste, then adjust the seasoning of the rest of the gnocchi dough if needed.

Dust a tray or chopping board with flour. If you’re using a piping bag, scrape the dough into it, then cut off the end to a make an opening about the width of a thumb and pipe the dough onto the tray or board in two or three lengths. Alternatively, just roll the dough by hand. Cut the lengths of dough into 2cm (¾in) gnocchi with a sharp knife, then slide them all into the simmering water to cook.

When the gnocchi have all risen to the surface, drain well. Either transfer to a bowl and toss with the smoked butter and a little more seasoning, or spread them out on a tray to cool before dusting with a little flour and pan-frying over medium heat in olive oil until golden brown.