There’s nothing so delightful as a really lovely fruit jelly, redolent of the intense flavours of the fruits from which it is made. (We’re talking the jelly of the preserves kind, rather than the ever-popular dessert item using gelatine.)
So what exactly is meant by a fruit jelly preserve? Jelly, by definition, is a clear mixture of fruits, sugar, acid (usually lemon juice) and water that is cooked until a gel is formed, which is tender but firm enough to hold its shape. A perfect jelly should be crystal clear with a fresh fruit flavour and vibrant colour, ‘tremulous’ in texture reflective of the fruits that have been included.
Jelly, however, doesn’t provide the yield that a batch of homemade jam would, and the process for making it is rather protracted. The rewards, though, are excellent compensation: it’s delicious on toast, bread, scones, pikelets, crumpets, English muffins and pancakes. Americans apparently love it teamed with peanut butter in a sandwich.
Fruit jelly can also be used to glaze tarts and to flavour ice-creams and other dishes, savoury and sweet. Savoury? Most definitely – add a spoonful to a gravy (or jus), to a braise or casserole-style dish, to a meatloaf or meatballs. A mere teaspoonful or two gives a lovely, subtle fruity lift of flavour that enhances the dish in a most pleasing way.
It’s also delicious served with meats and poultry, even seafood – redcurrant jelly, for instance, with turkey; apple and mint jelly with pork or lamb.
Occasionally I’ve had a batch of jelly that doesn’t set. If this should happen to you (and it’s unlikely), use it to flavour ice-cream (see Making ice-cream, on pages) or as a cordial syrup or a sauce for serving over ice-cream, panna cotta or a cheesecake.
Don’t let this deter you, however: the process is almost always successful if you follow a few simple tips that I’ve learned to maximise the chance of success every time.
• Remove any soft or damaged fruits. Wash fruits as appropriate. All pips and peels should be added with the fruits.
• Use fruits that are high in pectin and not too ripe. Just-ripe fruits are best, as the pectin level is highest at this stage.
• Be careful not to add excessive water – the fruits should be barely covered. Be sure that the fruits aren’t floating when you pour in the water.
• Best not to try to make jelly with fruits that are low in pectin and/or acid, such as cherries, figs, mulberries, mangoes, kiwi fruit, passionfruit, grapes, eating varieties of apples, pears, apricots, peaches and nectarines. However, this can be counter-balanced by combining these fruits with pectin-rich fruits, such as cooking varieties of apples, crabapples, blackcurrants, redcurrants or whitecurrants or gooseberries, as well as citrus fruits.
• Make smaller batches – no more than 1.5kg of fruits in any one batch. If you have a lot of fruits, you are better to divide them into batch lots this size.
Fruit
Juice of 1 lemon
Sugar
In the case of plums and firmer berries (such as blueberry, strawberry and gooseberry), prepare the fruits by washing. Softer berries should not be washed because they will absorb too much of the water. Just be sure they are very clean picked. Cut larger fruit, such as apples and stone fruits, quite small to release maximum juice.
Put the fruits in a large saucepan, and add the lemon juice and enough water to barely cover. (Berry fruits need much less water.) Bring to the boil, and then simmer until the fruit is softened and have released their juice.
Line a colander with a double thickness of muslin, and place a large pot or similar underneath to catch the juices. Gather the edges of the muslin together and tie the top to form a bag (special jelly bags can be purchased, but they are expensive). Suspend this bag over the pot for several hours or overnight. (Do not squeeze the muslin, or your jelly will be cloudy.)
For each cup of the resulting liquid, add 1 cup of sugar – less can be used if preferred, as little as ¾ cup to 1 cup of juice.
Return the mixture to the heat and bring to the boil, stirring to ensure that the sugar is dissolved before boiling point is reached. Cook over medium heat until the setting point is reached. (See Setting Point, on page, regarding testing for set.)
Do not stir in the scum that rises to the surface.
When ready, remove from the heat. Allow to stand for 2 minutes until any scum on the top solidifies slightly (it’s then easier to lift off), then remove with a slotted spoon.
Pour the jelly into warm, sterilised jars (see Sterilising Jars and Lids on pages). As you pour into the jar, tilt the jar slightly and pour the jelly down the inside surface so that no air pockets form. Seal immediately.