MAKING CHUTNEYS AND RELISHES

In recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest in making chutneys and relishes at home. It’s surely a wonderful way to make the most of an abundance of excess fresh fruit and vegetables. While fruits in the prime of ripeness are well used in jam, more mature fruits and vegetables are perfectly suited to chutney or relish making.

To prevent the growth of dangerous bacteria, ‘hurdles’ must be put in place that will disable and kill them, or the chutney will spoil and certainly not be safe to eat. These hurdles can include vinegar, salt, sugar, heat (evaporation), heat processing, freezing dehydration and oil. By using all or a combination of these in the correct concentrations or applications, you can safely consume your chutneys for months or even years to come.

There’s often a debate about what can be defined as chutney, as opposed to what constitutes a relish. Essentially, a relish as we know it today has similar ingredients to chutney. However, it’s less likely to contain fruit. It’s cooked for a shorter amount of time, and so has a sharper flavour and chunkier texture.

Under the alternative interpretation of relish of the fresh, non-vinegared kind, it can be an à-la-minute accompaniment to other foods. In this case, fresh ingredients are mixed together. These relishes are very delicious, of course, but shelf life is poor and they obviously can’t be classed as a preserve.

Chutneys, on the other hand, are made with fresh vegetables and/or fruit. The cooking time is longer than that of a traditional relish, and so the texture is smoother and the flavours are more rounded.

Chutneys and relishes are a very handy addition to the pantry shelves. They are easy to prepare and are very cost effective, and so they are certainly worth the minimal investment of time and effort to make them.

They can be served at a moment’s notice with cheese or cold cuts of meat. However, just as in colonial times, they can also be used to add flavour to other savoury dishes.

I have supplied three basic recipes here, one that serves well for a range of fruits. Apricots, plums, cherries, mangoes, peaches, pears and apples add their own twist of flavour to this chutney. Add a little to a stew, curry or casserole-style dish, or to the meat mixture for minced meat dishes, such as meatballs and pasta sauce, for a delightful boost of flavour.

(In case you have an abundance of berry fruits, I would just make mention here that, generally, they don’t make a very nice chutney or relish. Instead, I use just-ripe berries to make jam or jelly, and riper fruit to make cordial syrups.)

The second base recipe supplied here is for a tomato relish, with a variation given for chutney. Other or additional spices can be added according to taste. An added benefit is that relish can be strained through a food mill or pureed in a food processor or with a stick blender to make an excellent tomato sauce to serve with meats and savoury pastries.

For garden vegetables, a mixed vegetable relish is provided.

BASIC NOTES FOR MAKING CHUTNEY OR RELISH

Some recipes specify that the produce should be salted down for a time before cooking. Always do so, as it will be an essential part of the preserving process for that particular recipe.

  Select your produce – wash and peel the fruit or vegetables as appropriate and remove pips or stones.

  Fruit can be very ripe, but not bruised or mouldy.

  Sterilise the jars in which your chutney or relish will be stored (see Sterilising Jars and Lids on pages).

  Tomatoes can be peeled if preferred, though it isn’t necessary. To do so, place tomatoes, a few at a time, into boiling water for a few seconds, then plunge into cold water. The skins will then slip off easily.

  Keep to the quantities given in the recipe. The balance of ingredients ensures your chutney or relish keeps safely.

  Stir frequently as it comes to the boil, then only occasionally after that so that it doesn’t stick to the base of the pan.

  Cook chutneys over a medium-low heat; relishes just slightly higher.

  Always bottle while hot, and seal immediately (with a non-corrosive lid). This keeps out any airborne bacteria.

  Store the filled jars in a cool, dry, dark place.

  If you discover mould or fermenting in the jar when it is opened, discard it immediately.

STONE FRUIT CHUTNEY

Makes approximately 2kg

    1.5kg fruit, diced (weight with stones removed)

    500g onions, peeled and chopped

    2 cups (500ml) vinegar (white or cider)

    750g sugar

    1 teaspoon salt

    1 teaspoon nutmeg

    1 teaspoon mixed spice

    1 teaspoon ground cloves

    ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

    1 teaspoon curry powder

    Combine all the ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring.

          Cook over medium heat for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

          Pour into warm, sterilised jars and seal immediately.

TOMATO RELISH

Makes approximately 2kg

    If you wanted to make this relish into a chutney, add 2 cooking apples (such as Granny Smith) and cook the mixture for a further 20–30 minutes, stirring often.

    2kg ripe red tomatoes, chopped

    450g onions, peeled and chopped

    2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

    2 tablespoons salt

    4 teaspoons mustard powder

    3 teaspoons curry powder

    500g sugar

    3 cups (750ml) vinegar (white or cider)

    1 tablespoon cornflour

    ¼ cup (60ml) vinegar, extra

    Put the tomatoes, onions, garlic, salt, mustard powder, curry powder, sugar and vinegar into a large saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved, and continue to boil for 1½ hours.

          Mix the cornflour to a paste with the extra vinegar, add some or all to the boiling mixture (depending on the texture you require), and stir until thickened. Cook for 2 minutes more, stirring constantly.

          Pour into sterilised jars and seal immediately.

MIXED VEGETABLE RELISH

    1kg diced mixed vegetables – e.g., beans, cauliflower florets, celery, zucchini, cucumbers, radishes, corn (kernels)

    2 onions, peeled and finely diced

    1 large or 2 small red capsicums, finely diced

    ¼ cup (65g) salt

    2 cups (440g) sugar

    2 cups (500ml) white vinegar

    2 teaspoons mustard powder

    2 teaspoons ground turmeric

    2–3 teaspoons cornflour mixed to a paste with 1½ tablespoons white vinegar

    Place the vegetables, onions and capsicum in a bowl, add salt and mix well. Leave to stand for about 3 hours. Drain well.

          Combine the drained vegetables, sugar, vinegar, mustard powder and turmeric in a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Cook over medium–low heat for 25 minutes. Stir in some or all of the cornflour paste if needed to thicken. Cook for 2 minutes more, stirring constantly. Pour into warm, sterilised jars and seal immediately.