The fundamental part of a wonderful curry is its base of a really good spice paste or powder. The origin of such mixes is highly disputed, but generally it’s accepted that they originated in the Indian subcontinent. Many cultures, however, have espoused the humble curry – based either on wet or dry spice mixes – until they have become so individualised as to become regional or even familial traditions.
Making my own curry pastes and powders is a favourite pastime, and I love to set aside an entire morning to make several different varieties. As I roast, grind and cook the spice mixes, it’s not unusual for neighbours and other passers-by to call in and comment on the wonderful savoury aromas that waft from the open windows of my cooking school kitchen down through the valley as the pastes are cooked on the stovetop in their preparation.
Mind you, if you are making curry pastes or powders in your home, it’s a good idea to shut the doors to the other rooms, especially the bedrooms, if you don’t want your clothes to carry the aroma for quite some time.
Why make your own? Well, once you’ve tried homemade, there’s simply no going back. The purchase of individual spices for your blend means that the flavours are always fresh and vibrant. And there’s a multitude of variations that can be prepared to your own taste, so you have at your fingertips the basis for your own signature meat, chicken, seafood or vegetarian curries.
I prefer to make a paste rather than a curry powder – I find it much more convenient and the end result superior. The paste will keep in the fridge for up to 4 weeks, or in the freezer in small containers for much longer. The shelf life of curry powder mixtures is similar.
• For grinding the spices, use either a granite or stone mortar and pestle. However, a spice (or clean coffee) grinder does wonders, and many food processors these days will have a spice-grinding attachment. (But beware attempting to grind a whole cinnamon stick in an electrical appliance. You will likely ruin the machine, as indeed I once did mine.)
• A frying pan, for roasting the spices.
• A dedicated wooden spoon for stirring (after all, you don’t want to later use the same spoon for making jam or a sweet cake).
• Jars or small containers for storing the powder or paste.
Each spice mix will vary according to personal, regional, cultural or even religious tastes. However, the following dry spices are the most popular. It’s easy to keep a supply of these in your pantry cupboard in case the curry paste or powder-making bug should bite you.
• Asafoetida
• Bay leaves
• Cardamom pods
• Chillies – whole dried, flakes or powder
• Cinnamon
• Cloves
• Coriander seeds
• Cumin seeds
• Curry leaves
• Dried mint
• Fennel seeds
• Fenugreek seeds
• Garam masala
• Garlic powder
• Mustard seeds
• Onion powder
• Paprika
• Turmeric
Whole spices are generally roasted in a dry, heavy-based frying pan to release their wonderful aromas. They are then ground and mixed with other selected ground spices.
For making a paste, the roasted and ground spices are usually mixed with a little vinegar, water or coconut milk, and then oil is incorporated over heat to improve keeping quality.
I have supplied two simple recipes to get you started. As you gain confidence and try different flavours, you will soon develop favourite blends, and branch out into a whole range of delicious, palate-pleasing curry dishes. If you love a really hot curry, then increase the amount of chilli to suit your own palate.
Makes approximately 3½ cups
½ cup coriander seeds
4 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
2 tablespoons fenugreek seeds
2 tablespoons green cardamom pods, bruised
1 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
1 teaspoon dried chilli flakes
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon dried mint
½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Juice of ½ a lemon
1 cup (250ml) cider vinegar
¾ cup (185ml) water
1 cup (250ml) olive oil, plus a little extra
Dry-roast the coriander, cumin, fennel, fenugreek, cardamom and cinnamon in a frying pan over medium–low heat until fragrant. Cool for 5 minutes. Grind spices in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, and mix with chilli flakes, turmeric and dried mint.
Place spices, lemon zest, lemon juice, vinegar and water in a bowl, and mix to combine.
Heat oil in a frying pan, and cook the mixture for several minutes until thickened to a paste-like consistency.
Spoon into sterilised jars (see pages), making sure there are no air pockets.
This paste will keep for weeks if a little extra olive oil in poured over the top. Store in the fridge or freezer.
Makes approximately 2½ cups
4 tablespoons cumin seeds
3 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
2 tablespoons fenugreek seeds
1 teaspoon dried chilli flakes
3 teaspoons chilli powder
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon dried mint
½ teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon salt
Dry-roast the cumin, coriander, fennel, fenugreek and chilli flakes in a frying pan over medium–low heat for about 10 minutes, stirring often until they become very aromatic. Cool for 5 minutes, then grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Mix with the chilli powder, tumeric, dried mint, garlic powder, spices and salt.
Spoon into sterilised jars, and seal when cold.
Store in the fridge or freezer.