zFestivals & Events

Chinese New YearCULTURE

Late January or early February sees Chinatown snap, crackle and pop with fireworks, a colourful street parade, lion dances and dim sum aplenty.

University Boat RaceROWING

(www.theboatrace.org)

A grudge match on the Thames held annually since 1829 between the rowing crews of Oxford and Cambridge Universities. Late March.

Virgin Money London Marathon MARATHON

(www.virginmoneylondonmarathon.com)

Up to half a million spectators applaud whippet-thin champions and outlandishly clad greenhorns charging down London's streets in late April.

Chelsea Flower ShowHORTICULTURE

(www.rhs.org.uk/chelsea; Royal Hospital Chelsea; admission from £23)

Held in May, arguably the world's most renowned horticultural show attracts green fingers from all corners.

Trooping the ColourPAGEANT

Celebrating the Queen's official birthday (in June), this ceremonial procession of troops, marching along the Mall for their monarch's inspection, is a pageantry overload.

Field DayMUSIC

(www.fielddayfestivals.com; Victoria Park; tickets £29.50-59.50; tMile End)

Fabulously popular indie and alternative music festival, held over a June weekend in Victoria Park.

Royal Academy Summer ExhibitionART

(www.royalacademy.org.uk; adult/child £9.50/5)

Running from mid-June to mid-August, this is an annual showcase of works submitted by artists from all over Britain.

Meltdown FestivalMUSIC

(www.southbankcentre.co.uk)

The Southbank Centre hands over the curatorial reigns to a legend of contemporary music (such as Nick Cave, Morrissey or Patti Smith) to pull together a full program of concerts, talks and films in late June.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis ChampionshipsTENNIS

(www.wimbledon.com)

Held at the end of June, the world's most prestigious tennis event is as much about strawberries, cream and tradition as supersonic aces.

WirelessMUSIC

(www.wirelessfestival.co.uk; Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20)

One of London's flagship music festivals, with an emphasis on R&B, Wireless moved from Hyde Park to its new home at the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park in 2013. Usually held in July. Book in advance.

PrideGAY & LESBIAN

(www.prideinlondon.org)

The big event on the gay and lesbian calendar; usually held in June or July.

LoveboxMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.loveboxfestival.com; Victoria Park, E9)

A popular contribution to the summer music festival circuit, held in Victoria Park in mid-July.

Notting Hill CarnivalCARNIVAL

(www.thenottinghillcarnival.com)

Held over two days in August, Europe's largest (and London's most vibrant outdoor carnival) sees the Caribbean community showing the city how to party.

4Sleeping

When it comes to finding a place for a good night's kip, London is one of the most expensive places in the world. 'Budget' is pretty much anything below £100 per night for a double; at the top end, how does an £18,000-per-night suite on Hyde Park Corner sound? Double rooms ranging between £90 and £180 per night are considered midrange; more expensive options fall into the top-end category.

London, however, has a delightful selection of characterful hotels, whether brimming with history, zany modern decor or all-stops-out charm. Most of the ritzier places offer substantial discounts on the weekends, for advance bookings and at quieter times.

Public transport is good, so you don't need to be sleeping at Buckingham Palace to be at the heart of things.

Budget accommodation is scattered about, with good options in Bloomsbury and St Pancras, Earl's Court and the South Bank. For something a little nicer, check out Bayswater, Notting Hill Gate or Belgravia. To splash some cash, consider the West End, Kensington and Knightsbridge. Most budget and midrange places offer free wi-fi (top-end properties may charge).

Prices listed here include 20% VAT, when it applies.

West End

Like in Monopoly, land on a Mayfair hotel and you may have to sell your house, or at least remortgage. This is the heart of the action, and a couple of hostels cater for would-be Soho hipsters of more modest means.

YHA London Oxford StreetHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 1618; www.yha.org.uk; 14 Noel St, W1; dm/tw from £18/46; iW; tOxford Circus)

The most central of the YHA London fold, this hostel is a tip-top choice for its location, bright and colourful shared facilities, cleanliness and manageable 104-bed size. There are doubles, twins and three/four-bed dorms, with a charge for wi-fi.

Dean Street TownhouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7434 1775; www.deanstreettownhouse.com; 69-71 Dean St, W1; r £140-310; aW; tTottenham Court Rd)

This Soho gem of a 39-bedroom boutique hotel enjoys a delightful boudoir atmosphere with choice rooms – everything faultlessly in its place – from 'tiny' options upwards.

Seven Dials HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7240 0823; www.sevendialshotellondon.com; 7 Monmouth St, WC2; s/d/tr/q £95/105/130/150; W; tCovent Garden, Tottenham Court Rd)

The clean, comfortable and affordable Seven Dials offers a highly central location and rooms at the front looking out over delightful Monmouth St and quieter rooms at the back, with less of a view.

oHaymarket HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7470 4000; www.haymarkethotel.com; 1 Suffolk Pl, off Haymarket, SW1; r £325-425, ste from £505; aWs; tPiccadilly Circus)

An exquisite place to hang your well-trimmed hat, the Tim and Kit Kemp–designed Haymarket is a super-stylish and eye-catching treat, with a knockout swimming pool bathed in serene mood lighting.

Hazlitt’sHISTORIC HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7434 1771; www.hazlittshotel.com; 6 Frith St, W1; s £216, d/ste from £288/660; aW; tTottenham Court Rd)

Envelop yourself in Georgian finery at this lovely 1718 house and journey back to the days of four-poster beds, claw-foot baths and panelled walls. Each of the 30 individually decorated rooms overflows with Georgian antiques and days-gone-by charm (plus up-to-the-minute mod cons).

One AldwychHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7300 1000; www.onealdwych.co.uk; 1 Aldwych, WC2; d £255-470, ste £465-1005; aWs; tCovent Garden)

Check in for a tremendous presentation of granite bathrooms, modern art, a majestic bar and restaurant, and a long, chlorine-free swimming pool (with underwater music). The circular suites serve up fabulous views of the Strand and Waterloo Bridge.

Brown’s HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7493 6020; www.brownshotel.com; 30 Albemarle St, W1; r/ste from £460/2000; aW; tGreen Park)

A stunning five-star choice, this 117-room hotel dates to 1837 when 11 houses were joined together; lovely old-world traditional features (Edwardian oak panelling, working fireplaces) complement individually decorated rooms.

Covent Garden HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7806 1000; www.coventgardenhotel.co.uk; 10 Monmouth St, WC2; d/ste from £310/490; aW; tCovent Garden)

Housed in an old French hospital, this well-positioned 58-room Firmdale hotel concocts a classy display of antiques, bright and vibrant fabrics, quirky bric-a-brac and a winning bar-restaurant.

The City

It bristles with bankers during the week, but you can often net considerable bargains in the City come weekends.

London St Paul’s YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7236 4965; www.yha.org.uk; 36 Carter Lane, EC4; dm £17-25, d £40-50; iW; tSt Paul ’s)

Perfectly placed for hoovering up the sights of the City and the South Bank, this 213-bed hostel in a heritage-listed building is just down the road from St Paul's (the bells, the bells!). There's a licensed cafeteria, but no self-catering, no lift and a seven-night maximum stay.

Hotel Indigo Tower HillBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0843 208 7007; www.hotelindigo.com/lontowerhill; 142 Minories, EC3; r weekend/weekday from £100/200; aW; tAldgate)

The 46 differently styled rooms at this crisp and affordable hotel north of the Tower of London feature four-poster beds and iPod docking stations.

Andaz Liverpool StreetHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7961 1234; www.london.liverpoolstreet.andaz.com; 40 Liverpool St, EC2; r weekend/weekday from £145/290; aW; tLiverpool St)

The former Great Eastern Hotel is now the London flagship for Hyatt's youth-focused Andaz chain. There's no reception here, just black-clad staff who check you in on mini laptops. Rooms are a little generic, but have free juice, snacks and wi-fi.

South Bank

Immediately on the south side of the Thames is a fab perch for reaching the central sights, while gauging the personality of South London.

St Christopher’s VillageHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7939 9710; www.st-christophers.co.uk; 163 Borough High St, SE1; dm/r from £14/62; iW; tLondon Bridge)

The Village – a huge, up-for-it party hostel, with a hopping bar, roof terrace (plus bar), cinema and tons of beds – is the main hub of three locations on the same street. Dorms have four to 14 beds. The other locations are much smaller, quieter and, frankly, more pleasant. St Christopher's Inn ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 121 Borough High St, SE1) is above a very nice pub, while Oasis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 59 Borough High St) is women-only.

oCitizen MBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3519 1680; www.citizenm.com/london-bankside; 20 Lavington St, SE1; r £109-189; aiW; tSouthwark)

Aimed squarely at young, trendy and Tate-going artsy travellers, this Dutch boutique hotel pulls out all the design stops (and rummages around to pull out a few more). Rooms are titchy, but have swish Samsung tablet-controlled mod-cons and free movies on tap. Space comes from the funky lounge area, conceived to hang around in.

New openings in Tower Hill and St Pauls are on the cards for 2014.

Shangri-La Hotel at the ShardHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7234 8000; www.shangri-la.com/london/shangrila; 31 St Thomas St, SE1; d/ste £575/3000; aiWs; dLondon Bridge, tLondon Bridge)

The Shangri-La's first UK opening gives London its first five-star hotel south of the Thames and breathtaking views from the highest hotel in Western Europe, occupying levels 34 to 52 of the Shard. From the 35th floor sky lobby to the rooms, the Shangri-La concocts a stylish blend of Chinese aesthetics, Asian hospitality and sharp modernity.

The Shard's tapering shape puts the suites on lower floors, while each guestroom is slightly different in design. For drop-dead views, zip up to Gǒng on the 52nd floor, but book way ahead.

Pimlico & Belgravia

Lime Tree Hotel B&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7730 8191; www.limetreehotel.co.uk; 135-137 Ebury St, SW1; s/tr/f £110/205/225, d £165-205; iW; tVictoria)

Family-run for over 40 years, this smartly renovated Georgian townhouse hotel has a pleasant back garden to catch the late afternoon rays, while contemporary renovations and polite staff make it an appealing choice. No lift.

B+B BelgraviaB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7259 8570; www.bb-belgravia.com; 64-66 Ebury St, SW1; s £89-120, d £100-140, apt £225; iW; tVictoria)

This lovely place marries contemporary chic with Georgian elegance (and a pleasant courtyard garden out back). Rooms are neat and, although not very spacious, fine studio rooms with compact kitchens are along the road at No 82. No lift.

oGoringHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7396 9000; www.thegoring.com; Beeston Place; r £575-4350; aiW; tVictoria)

Kate Middleton spent her last night as a commoner in the Royal Suite here before joining the ranks of the Royal Family, propelling the Goring into an international media glare. Glistening with chandeliers and overseen by magnificent staff, this family-owned hotel is a supremely grand, albeit highly relaxed slice of England and Englishness (with a sumptuous garden).

Knightsbridge

Named after a bridge over the River Westbourne, Knightsbridge is where you'll find some of London's best-known department stores and some top hotels.

Levin HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7589 6286; www.thelevinhotel.co.uk; 28 Basil St, SW3; r from £379; aW; tKnightsbridge)

As close as you can get to sleeping in Harrods, the 12-room Levin knows its market. Elegance and sophistication permeate this tiny hotel from top to toe, fashioning a highly personable choice in the heart of Knightsbridge.

Chelsea & Kensington

Well-turned out Chelsea and Kensington offer easy access to the museums, natty shopping choices and some of London's best-looking streets.

MeiningerHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3318 1407; www.meininger-hostels.com; Baden Powell House, 65-67 Queen’s Gate, SW7; dm £16-22, s/tw from £75/90; aiW; tGloucester Rd, South Kensington)

In late-1950s Baden Powell House, opposite the Natural History Museum, this 48-room German-run ‘city hostel and hotel’ has spic-and-span rooms, most of which are dorms of between four and 12 beds, with pod-like showers, plus 11 private rooms all with bathroom. There's a bar in-house plus a great roof terrace.

Ampersand HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7589 5895; www.ampersandhotel.com; 10 Harrington Road; s & d £372; aiW; tSouth Kensington)

Housed in the old Norfolk Hotel building, the Ampersand boasts a light, fresh and bubbly feel: its (narrow) corridors and (stylish but smallish) rooms decorated with wallpaper designs celebrating the nearby arts and sciences of South Kensington's museums, a short stroll away. Apero, the cellar Mediterranean restaurant, is excellent.

Halkin by ComoHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7333 1000; www.comohotels.com/thehalkin; Halkin St, SW1; r/ste from £390/540; aiW; tHyde Park Corner)

With muted Asian influences, the chichi Halkin is for business travellers of a minimalist bent. Bedroom doors are hidden within curved wooden hallways, and the 41 swish rooms are filled with natural light, boasting cream walls, burlwood panelling and large all-marble bathrooms.

Number SixteenHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7589 5232; www.firmdalehotels.com/hotels/london/number-sixteen; 16 Sumner Pl, SW7; s from £174, d £228-360; aiW; tSouth Kensington)

This is four properties in one delightful whole and a stunning place to stay, with 42 individually designed rooms, a cosy drawing room, a fully stocked library and a simply idyllic back garden.

GoreHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7584 6601; www.gorehotel.com; 190 Queen's Gate, SW7; r from £204; aiW; tGloucester Rd)

With obliging staff in tails, twinkling chandeliers, walls crowded with framed portraits, prints and wood-panelling, this superb 50-room hotel wallows in old England charm. Rolling Stones fans can celebrate the 1968 Beggars Banquet album launch in the bar; Judy Garland aficionados can sleep on her bed.

Earl's Court & Fulham

West London's Earl's Court is lively, cosmopolitan and so popular with travelling Antipodeans it's nicknamed Kangaroo Valley. There are no real sights, but it has inexpensive digs, an infectious holiday atmosphere and it's a short hop to the action. Further west and abutting the Thames, Fulham is the home of its famous riverside palace.

oBarclay HouseB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7384 3390; www.barclayhouselondon.com; 21 Barclay Rd, SW6; r £110-125; iW; tFulham Broadway)

The two dapper, thoroughly modern and comfy bedrooms in this charmingly shipshape Victorian house are a dream, from the Philippe Starck shower rooms, walnut furniture, new double-glazed sash windows and underfloor heating to the small, thoughtful details (fumble-free coat hangers, drawers packed with sewing kits and maps). A four-night minimum stay usually applies.

RockwellBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7244 2000; www.therockwell.com; 181-183 Cromwell Rd, SW5; s/ste from £90/160, d £100-150; aiW; tEarl’s Court)

With an understated-cool design ethos, things are muted, dapper and a tad minimalist at 'budget boutique' 40-room Rockwell. Spruce and stylish, all rooms have a shower, the mezzanine suite is an absolute peach, and the three rooms (LG1, 2 and 3) onto the garden are fine. Rooms on Cromwell Rd are triple-glazed to stifle the roar.

Notting Hill, Bayswater & Paddington

Don't be fooled by Julia Roberts' and Hugh Grant's shenanigans, Notting Hill and the areas immediately north of Hyde Park are as shabby as they are chic, but they're still cool. There are some gorgeous gated squares surrounded by Georgian town houses, but the area is better exemplified by the Portobello Road Market and the Notting Hill Carnival.

Scruffy Paddington has lots of cheap hotels, with a major strip of unremarkable ones along Sussex Gardens that may be worth checking if you're short on options.

Notting Hill & Bayswater

1Sights

1Kensington GardensD3

2Kensington PalaceD4

5Eating

3Electric DinerA1

4LedburyB1

5OrangeryD4

6OttolenghiB1

7OttolenghiC5

8TaqueríaC1

6Drinking & Nightlife

9Churchill ArmsC4

10Earl of LonsdaleA2

11Windsor CastleB4

3Entertainment

Electric CinemaA1

7Shopping

12Ceramica BlueA1

13Portobello Road MarketA1

14Rough Trade WestA1

Tune HotelHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7258 3140; www.tunehotels.com; 41 Praed St, W2; r £35-80; aiW; tPaddington)

This 137-room Malaysian-owned budget hotel offers super-duper rates for early birds who book way in advance. You get the bare bones – a twin or double room, the cheapest without window – and pay for add-ons (towel, wi-fi, TV) as you see fit, giving you the chance to simply put a roof over your head. You don't even get a wardrobe, just hangers.

oLa Suite WestBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7313 8484; www.lasuitewest.com; 41-51 Inverness Tce, W2; r £179-489; aiW; tBayswater)

The black-and-white foyer of the Anouska Hempel–designed La Suite West – bare walls, a minimalist slit of a fireplace, an iPad for guests' use on a bare white marble reception desk – presages the OCD neatness of rooms hidden away down dark corridors. Think impeccable bathrooms, comfortable beds and warm service. Downstairs suites have gardens and individual gated entrances.

Bloomsbury & St Pancras

One step from the West End and crammed with Georgian townhouse conversions, these are more affordable neighbourhoods. A stretch of lower-priced hotels runs along Gower St and on the pretty Cartwright Gardens crescent. While hardly a salubrious location, St Pancras is handy with some excellent budget options.

Clink78HOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7183 9400; www.clinkhostels.com; 78 King's Cross Rd, WC1; dm/r from £10/25; iW; tKing's Cross St Pancras)

If anyone can think of a more right-on London place to stay than the courthouse where The Clash went on trial, please let us know. You can watch TV from the witness box or sleep in the converted cells, but the majority of the rooms are custom-built, quite comfortable and all were undergoing a repaint in 2014.

GeneratorHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7388 7666; www.generatorhostels.com/london; 37 Tavistock Pl, WC1; dm/r from £12/50; iW; tRussell Sq)

Lashings of primary colours and shiny industrial metal are the hallmarks of this huge hostel. This former police barracks has over 850 beds, a bar that stays open until 2am and hosts themed parties, and a large eating area (but no kitchen). Dorm rooms have between four and 12 beds.

London St Pancras YHAHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7388 9998; www.yha.org.uk; 79 Euston Rd, NW1; dm/r from £20/61; iW; tKing's Cross St Pancras)

Renovations have converted this 185-bed hostel into a dependable central London choice – despite the busy road. Rooms range from private doubles to six-bed dorms; most have bathrooms. There's a good bar and cafe, but no kitchen.

Arosfa HotelB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7636 2115; www.arosfalondon.com; 83 Gower St, WC1; s/tr/f £78/145/175, d £130-145; W; tGoodge St)

While the decor of the immaculately presented rooms is more understated, Arosfa's guest lounge is blinged up with chandeliers and clear plastic chairs. Recent refurbishments have added en suites to all bedrooms, but they're tiny. A couple of family rooms pitch in; room 4 looks onto a small garden.

St Pancras Renaissance London HotelLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7841 3540; www.marriott.co.uk; Euston Rd, NW1; d from £230; aWs; tKing's Cross St Pancras)

This iconic George Gilbert Scott–designed Gothic masterpiece is a redbrick Victorian fantasy, its lobby a magnificent conversion of the former train station taxi rank boasting a splendid double-staircase. Disappointingly, only 38 of the 245 rooms are in the original building; the rest are in an extension at the back and rather bland.

You can toast the former booking office architecture from the 29m-long bar.

Rough LuxeBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7837 5338; www.roughluxe.co.uk; 1 Birkenhead St, WC1; r £229-289; aW; tKing's Cross St Pancras)

Half rough, half luxury goes the blurb, and the shabby/chic blend at this Grade-II listed property is compelling. Rooms treat you to the finest quality bed linen, eclectic art works cling to walls, you may get a free-standing copper bath and service is top-notch, but the wallpaper is fetchingly distressed and the 1970s TV doesn't quite work. A lovely patio chips in at the rear.

Clerkenwell & Farringdon

These now-fashionable districts just north of centre contain few echoes of the notorious 'rookeries' of the 19th century, where families were crammed into damp, foetid basements, living in possibly the worst conditions in the city's history (the London documented so vividly by Dickens).

The availability of accommodation hasn't kept pace with Clerkenwell's revival, but it's still a great area to hang your hat. The best pickings aren't exactly cheap.

oZetter Hotel & TownhouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7324 4444; www.thezetter.com; 86-88 Clerkenwell Rd, EC1; d from £235, studio £300-450; aW; tFarringdon)S

Guided by a sustainable ethos (water is supplied by its own bore hole), the 59-room Zetter is lovely, from the fine furnishings to the cutting-edge facilities. The rooftop studios with private patios and long views are the icing on this cake. Bistrot Bruno Loubet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7324 4455; www.bistrotbrunoloubet.com; 86-88 Clerkenwell Rd, EC1; mains £12-17; h7.30-10.30am, noon-2.30pm & 6-10pm; W; tFarringdon) takes care of the fine food end.

RookeryLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7336 0931; www.rookeryhotel.com; 12 Peter's Lane, Cowcross St, EC1; s £222, d £288-660, ste £474; aW; tFarringdon)

Named after London's notorious slums (Fagin's house in Oliver Twist was nearby), this antique-strewn charmer fashions an 18th-century ambience with none of the attendant grime or crime. For a bird's-eye view of St Paul's, book the two-storey Rook's Nest, but be warned: Fagin never had a lift.

Hoxton, Shoreditch & Spitalfields

Its rough-edged reputation well-smoothed by gentrification and the attentions of cash-loaded twenty-somethings, this is a knockout area to roost for some of London's best bars and nightlife.

Hoxton, Shoreditch & Spitalfields

1Sights

1Dennis Severs' HouseC5

2Geffrye MuseumC1

4Sleeping

3Hoxton HotelA3

5Eating

4AlbionC4

5Brick Lane Beigel BakeD4

6PoppiesD6

7Sông Quê CaféC1

6Drinking & Nightlife

8Book ClubB4

9BrewDogD4

10CargoB3

11George & DragonC3

12Happiness ForgetsB2

13Plastic PeopleB3

14Sager & WildeD1

15Ten BellsD6

16Worship St Whistling ShopA5

17XOYOA3

3Entertainment

18Comedy CafeB3

7Shopping

19Brick Lane MarketD4

20Columbia Road Flower MarketD2

21Old Spitalfields MarketC6

22Rough Trade EastD5

23StartB3

24Sunday UpMarketD5

oHoxton HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7550 1000; www.hoxtonhotels.com; 81 Great Eastern St, EC2; r from £59; aiW; tOld St)

A revolutionary pricing structure means that while all the rooms are identical, the hip Hoxton aims at constantly full occupancy. Book three months ahead (sign up on the website) and you can, if fortunate, nab a room for £1; you'll also need to book early for £49 to £69 deals.

The reasonably sized rooms have comfy beds, quality linen, a desk and fridge with complimentary bottled water and milk.

East End & Docklands

40 WinksBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7790 0259; www.40winks.org; 109 Mile End Rd, E1; s/d £110/185; W; tStepney Green)

This fun Queen Anne town house spills over with charm, eclectic style and whimsy, so much so that the two bedrooms (one single) are devoid of TVs. Fashionistas make this their first port of call, so book way ahead. Breakfast included.

POUND SAVERS

As many of London's very best sights are free, you can easily spend a busy week without paying much on admission charges. However, if you're hanging around for longer and have particular attractions that you're keen to see, there are options for saving a few pounds.

London PassTRAVEL PASS

(www.londonpass.com; 1/2/3/6 days £49/68/81/108)

The London Pass is a smart card that gains you fast-track entry to over 60 different attractions, including pricier ones such as the Tower of London and St Paul's Cathedral. You'd have to be racing around frantically to get real value from a one-day pass, but you could conceivably save quite a bit with the two- or three-day version.

Passes can be booked online and either shipped or collected from the London Pass Redemption Desk ( GOOGLE MAP ; 11a Charing Cross Rd, WC2; h10am-4.30pm; tLeicester Square) opposite the Garrick Theatre. It also sells a version with a preloaded Transport For London (TFL) travel pass, but it's cheaper to buy this separately.

Historic Royal PalacesTRAVEL PASS

(www.hrp.org.uk; individual/joint membership £43/65)

If you're a royalty buff, taking out an annual membership to the Historic Royal Palaces allows you to jump the queues and visit the Tower of London, Kensington Palace, Banqueting House, Kew Palace and Hampton Court Palace as often as you like.

If you were intending to visit all five anyway, membership will save you £32 (£87 for a couple). There can be a lengthy wait for membership cards, but temporary cards are issued immediately.

5Eating

Dining out in London has become so fashionable that you can hardly open a menu without banging into some celebrity chef or other. The range and quality of eating options has increased exponentially over the last few decades. Waves of immigrant flavours have deeply infused London cuisine and the expectations of modern-day Londoners are demanding.

In this section we have sieved out choice restaurants and cafes noted for their location, value for money, unique character, ambience and, of course, good food. Vegetarians needn't fret: London has a host of dedicated meat-free joints, while most others have veggie offerings.

West End

Mayfair, Soho and Covent Garden are the gastronomic heart of London, with a blinding choice of restaurants and cuisines at budgets to suit booze hounds, theatre-goers or determined grazers.

oKoyaNOODLES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.koya.co.uk; 49 Frith St, W1; mains £7-15; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm; tTottenham Court Rd, Leicester Sq)

Koya’s speciality is udon noodles (a type of thick wheat flour noodle) – devoured either with a cold sauce or plunged into a variety of hot broths (from plain to duck or smoked mackerel). The noodles are divine and the simple wooden-table decor wholesome; arrive early or late to avoid queues.

CevicheSOUTH AMERICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cevicheuk.com; 17 Frith St, W1; mains £5-11; hnoon-11.30pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; W; tLeicester Sq)

A big hit with Soho gastronomes, this colourful, vibrant and fabuloso bodega is a must for lovers of Peruvian food, or those keen to kick-start an instant passion for anticuchos (grilled skewers), ceviche (citrus-marinated raw fish) and heart-warming shots of pisco.

OrchardVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.orchard-kitchen.co.uk; 11 Sicilian Ave, WC1; mains £6.50-7; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri; v; tHolborn)

Delightfully ensconced amid the charming buildings of Sicilian Ave, this homely eatery is a must for roving vegetarians. The traditional menu is a wholesome delight, from dandelion leaves, baby spinach and poached garlic milk to crushed turnips with pink peppercorns.

Roti ChaiINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rotichai.com; 3 Portman Mews South, W1; mains from £5-12; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun; W; tMarble Arch)

With a refreshing street kitchen menu from India, colourful Roti Chai cooks up a roaring trade in bel puris, spiced lamb chapli kebabs, papri chaat and railway lamb curries for upstairs snackers, with a more expansive dining room menu down below.

WahacaMEXICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wahaca.com; 66 Chandos Pl, WC2; mains £7-10; hnoon-11pm; W; tCovent Garden)S

A branch of a chain peppering central London, this delightful cantina is a superb pitstop for Mexican street snacks (tacos, tostadas, quesadillas), more traditional mains such as marinated, grilled chicken or fish tacos, and a strong list of tequila and mezqal. Award-winning sustainable credentials to boot.

Nordic BakerySCANDINAVIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nordicbakery.com; 14a Golden Sq, W1; snacks £4-5; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

As unfussy and stylish as you'd expect from the Scandinavians, this small cafe has bare wooden walls and uncomplicated Nordic snacks, such as sticky Finnish cinnamon buns, Scandinavian smoked-fish sandwiches, goat's cheese and beetroot salad, and oatmeal cookies.

Monmouth Coffee CompanyCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.monmouthcoffee.co.uk; 27 Monmouth St, WC2; pastry & cakes from £2.50; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; tTottenham Court Rd, Leicester Sq)

There's an array of treats on the counter, but it's the coffee that's the star, nay god, here. Chat to a caffeinated stranger on one of the tight tables at the back, or grab a takeaway and slink off to a nearby lane for your fix. There's a second outlet in Borough ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Park St, SE1; h7.30am-6pm; tLondon Bridge).

Hummus BrosCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hbros.co.uk; 88 Wardour St, W1; mains £3.50-6.50; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; Wv; tPiccadilly Circus)S

Don't come here if you're chickpea-challenged, because this informal place is hummus heaven. It comes in small or regular bowls with a choice of meat or veggie toppings and a side of pita bread. Other branches can be found in Holborn ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 37-63 Southampton Row, W1; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat; Wv; tHolborn), Cheapside ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 128 Cheapside, EC2; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri; Wv; tSt Paul's) or Exmouth Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 62 Exmouth Market; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat; Wv).

Fernandez & WellsCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fernandezandwells.com; 73 Beak St, W1; dishes £4.50-6; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

One of four central London branches of Fernandez & Wells, each occupying small, friendly and elegant spaces. Both the cafe and the espresso bar do sandwiches and first-rate coffee.

MildredsVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mildreds.co.uk; 45 Lexington St, W1; mains £8-10.50; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; Wv; tOxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus)

Ceaselessly busy, long-standing Mildred’s seduces all manner of vegetarians, omnivores and detoxers, so don’t be shy about sharing a table in the sky-lit dining room. Vegan and gluten-free options available.

Baozi InnCHINESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Newport Ct, WC2; mains £5-7.50; hnoon-10.30pm; tLeicester Sq)

Decorated vintage-style with kitsch communist pop, Baozi Inn serves authentic Beijing- and Chengdu-style street food, such as piquant dan dan noodles (a Sìchuan staple) and baozi (steamed buns with stuffing), handmade daily.

oBrasserie ZédelFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 4888; www.brasseriezedel.com; 20 Sherwood St, W1; mains £8.75-30; h11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 11pm Sun; W; tPiccadilly Circus)

This triumphant basement brasserie in the grandly renovated art-deco ballroom of a former Piccadilly hotel offers excellent value set menus (£8.95/11.75 for two/three courses) and plats du jour (£12.95), all in a terrific setting.

Great Queen StreetBRITISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7242 0622; 32 Great Queen St, WC2; mains £12-16; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun; tHolborn)

The menu at what is one of Covent Garden's best places to eat is seasonal (and changes daily), with an emphasis on quality, hearty dishes and good ingredients – with perennial delicious stews, roasts and simple fish dishes. The atmosphere is lively, with a small bar tucked below. Booking is essential.

National Dining RoomsBRITISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7747 2525; www.peytonandbyrne.co.uk; 1st fl, Sainsbury Wing, National Gallery, Trafalgar Sq, WC2; mains £15.50-20.50; h10am-5.30pm Sat-Thu, to 8.30pm Fri; tCharing Cross)

It's fitting that this acclaimed restaurant should celebrate British food, being in the National Gallery and overlooking Trafalgar Sq. For a much cheaper option with the same views, ambience, quality produce and excellent service, try a salad, pie or tart at the adjoining bakery.

Bocca di LupoITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 2223; www.boccadilupo.com; 12 Archer St, W1; mains £8-27.50; h12.30-3.45pm & 5.30-11pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

Hidden on a dark Soho backstreet, Bocca radiates elegant sophistication, setting taste buds a quiver with a mouth-watering menu spanning Italy's culinary regions.

BarrafinaSPANISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7813 8016; www.barrafina.co.uk; 54 Frith St, W1; tapas £5-18.50; hnoon-3pm & 5-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-3.30pm & 5.30-10pm Sun; tTottenham Court Road)

The tapas here (bar seating) may not be as good value as in Spain, but they're standout. No reservations, so prepare to queue. There is a second branch newly opened in Covent Garden ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Adelaide St, WC2).

CanelaPORTUGUESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.canelacafe.com; 33 Earlham St, WC2; mains £9-13; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; W; tCovent Garden)

This sweet Covent Garden cafe flings together a tempting range of Portuguese and Brazilian dishes, including feijoada (bean stew with smoked meat) and pão de queijo (bread and cheese roll). Great for satiating pre-theatre munchies.

Bar ShuCHINESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7287 6688; www.barshurestaurant.co.uk; 28 Frith St, W1; mains £10-31; hnoon-11pm; tPiccadilly Circus, Leicester Sq)

Authentic Sìchuan food long eluded the sweet-toothed Cantonese chefs of Chinatown, but Bar Shu hits all the right mala (numb-spicy) notes with dishes steeped in smoked chillies and the crucial aromatic peppercorn (hua jiao).

Pitt Cue CoBARBECUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pittcue.co.uk; 1 Newburgh St, W1; mains £11.50-16.50; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

With only 30 seats jammed into this titchy upstairs-bar, downstairs-dining room affair, prepare to line up (no reservations) for a table and tin trays loaded with slow-cooked meats (pulled pork, beef ribs), classic American BBQ-style. Tuck your elbows in and enjoy.

Hawksmoor Seven DialsSTEAKHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7420 9390; www.thehawksmoor.co.uk; 11 Langley St, WC2; steak £20-34, 2-/3-course express menu £23/26; hnoon-3pm & 5-10.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-9.30pm Sun; W; tCovent Garden)S

Legendary among London carnivores for its mouth-watering and flavour-rich steaks from British cattle breeds, Hawksmoor’s sumptuous Sunday roasts, burgers and well-executed cocktails are other show-stoppers. Book ahead.

ArbutusMODERN EUROPEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 4545; www.arbutusrestaurant.co.uk; 63-64 Frith St, W1; mains £18-20; hnoon-2.30pm & 5-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm Sun; W; tTottenham Court Rd)

With seasonal produce and inventive dishes, Anthony Demetre's Michelin-starred brainchild is a winner. The well-priced 'working lunch' menu at £17.95 for two courses and £19.95 for three is a bargain. Bookings crucial.

The City

You'll be sorely dismayed if you've got an empty belly on a Sunday morning in the City. Even during the busy weekdays, the chain eateries are often your best option.

Café BelowCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7329 0789; www.cafebelow.co.uk; St Mary-le-Bow Church, Cheapside, EC2; mains £8.75-10.50; h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri; v; tMansion House)

This atmospheric cafe-restaurant, in the crypt of one of London’s most famous churches, is breakfast and lunch only these days, but offers excellent value, with many vegetarian choices. In summer tables go outside in the shady courtyard.

Duck & WaffleBRASSERIE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3640 7310; www.duckandwaffle.com; 40th fl, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2; mains £7-32; h24hr; tLiverpool St)

The highest restaurant in the UK matches a thoroughly smart (no sportswear, beachwear or flip-flops) and modern perch on the 40th floor of the Heron Tower and a confident British menu (small plates to encourage sharing) – plus waffles – with wrap-around views and round-the-clock hours.

Sweeting’sSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7248 3062; www.sweetingsrestaurant.com; 39 Queen Victoria St, EC4; mains £15-45; h11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri; tMansion House)S

Hauling in diners since 1889, Sweetings is a massively popular fixture, serving delicious and sustainably sourced fish (grilled, fried or poached), fried whitebait, dover sole and the outstanding chef's fish pie (£15).

South Bank

Popular restaurants feast on iconic riverside views, but cast your net wider and gems crop up everywhere. For a feed with a local feel, head to Borough Market or Bermondsey St.

M ManzeBRITISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.manze.co.uk; 87 Tower Bridge Rd, SE1; mains £2.40-6.25; h11am-2pm Mon-Thu, 10am-2.30pm Fri & Sat; tBorough)

Dating to 1902, classic M Manze (Italian roots) began as an ice-cream seller before moving into pie territory. There's lovely tile work and a traditional London working-man’s menu: pie and mash, pie and liquor (parsley sauce); take your eels jellied or stewed.

oSkylonMODERN EUROPEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7654 7800; www.skylon-restaurant.co.uk; 3rd fl, Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1; grill mains £12.50-30, restaurant 2-/3-course £42/48; hgrill noon-11pm, restaurant noon-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; W; tWaterloo)

This good-looker atop the Royal Festival Hall divides into grill and fine-dining sections. Design is cutting-edge 1950s, with floor-to-ceiling windows rewarding diners with Thames and the City views. Weekday two-/three-course lunches are a tempting £18/21 in the grill. Booking is advised, especially for the restaurant. Dress smart casual (no sportswear).

MagdalenMODERN BRITISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7403 1342; www.magdalenrestaurant.co.uk; 152 Tooley St, SE1; mains £14.50-21, 2-/3-course lunch £15.50/18.50; hnoon-2.30pm Mon-Fri & 6.30-10pm Mon-Sat; W; tLondon Bridge)

A diamond in the Tooley St rough, Magdalen hits the spot for anyone eager to corner some of London's best Modern British fare. With a focus on charcuterie, lovingly cooked and presented, it's not the place to bring a vegetarian or a weight-conscious waif on a date.

Belgravia

oPimlico FreshCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; 86 Wilton Road, SW1; mains from £6; h7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; tVictoria)

A wholesome choice for a healthy breakfast or lunch, this friendly two-room cafe cooks up fine homemade dishes from pies, soups, baked beans on toast and lasagne to warming bowls of porridge laced with honey, maple syrup, banana, yoghurt or sultanas, while making regular forays into creative cuisine.

Knightsbridge

oDinner by Heston BlumenthalMODERN BRITISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7201 3833; www.dinnerbyheston.com; Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1; 3-course set lunch £38, mains £28-42; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; W; tKnightsbridge)

Double Michelin-star Dinner is a gastronomic tour de force, taking diners on a journey through British culinary history (with inventive modern inflections). Dishes carry dates to convey historical context – the cod in cider (c 1940) is a joy – but unless you order the set lunch (Monday to Friday), your bill may rapidly spiral out of control. Book ahead.

ZumaJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7584 1010; www.zumarestaurant.com; 5 Raphael St, SW7; mains £15-75; hnoon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-3.30pm Sat & Sun, 6-11pm daily; W; tKnightsbridge)

A modern-day take on the traditional Japanese izakaya, where drinking and eating harmonise, Zuma oozes style, but it's the excellent sushi, sashimi and robata (char-grilled) dishes that steal the show.

Sake fiends will find more than 40 different types of their favourite tipple at the bar.

Chelsea & Kensington

These highbrow neighbourhoods harbour some of London's very best (and priciest) restaurants.

WasabiJAPANESE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.wasabi.uk.com; Kensington Arcade, Kensington High St, W8; mains £5-8; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; tHigh St Kensington)

Large, bright sit-down and take-out branch of this superb Japanese sushi and bento chain, with delicious rice sets, noodles, rolls and salads, all good value and perfect for a fast lunch. Branches dot central London.

oFive FieldsMODERN BRITISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7838 1082; www.fivefieldsrestaurant.com; 8-9 Blacklands Terrace, SW3; 3-course set meal £50; h6.30-10pm Tue-Sat; W; tSloane Square)

The inventive British cuisine, consummate service and enticingly light and inviting decor at this triumphant Chelsea restaurant has won an immediate fan base, but plan early to get a seat.

oMedlarMODERN EUROPEAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7349 1900; www.medlarrestaurant.co.uk; 438 King's Rd, SW10; 3-course lunch £27-30, dinner £35-45; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm; W; tSouth Kensington, Fulham Broadway, Sloane Sq)

With its uncontrived yet crisply modern green-on-grey design, immaculate, Michelin star–rated Medlar has quickly become a King's Rd sensation. With no à la carte menu and scant pretentiousness, the prix fixe modern European cuisine is delightfully assured, with kitchen magic cooked up by chef Joe Mercer Nairne (from Chez Bruce).

Gordon RamsayFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7352 4441; www.gordonramsay.com; 68 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3; 3-course lunch/dinner £55/95; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri; tSloane Sq)

One of Britain's finest restaurants and London's longest-running with three coveted Michelin stars, you'll need to book ahead and hop into your best togs: jeans and T-shirts don't get past the door. And if you've seen the chef in action, you'll know not to argue.

Notting Hill, Shepherd's Bush & Hammersmith

Notting Hill teems with good places to eat, from cheap takeaways to atmospheric pubs and restaurants worthy of the fine-dining tag. Shepherd's Bush and Hammersmith to the west pitch in with some fine contenders.

TaqueríaMEXICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.taqueria.co.uk; 139-143 Westbourne Grove; tacos £5-7.50; hnoon-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11.30pm Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; W; tNotting Hill Gate)S

Its sustainable credentials as exacting and appealing as its authentic soft-corn, freshly made tortillas, this place instantly elbows other Mexican restaurants into the Tex-Mex shade. Fish is all sustainably sourced and the pork, chicken and eggs come free range. Great mezcal and tequila menu, too.

Electric DinerAMERICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.electricdiner.com; 191 Portobello Rd, W11; mains from £8-19; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri-Sun; W; tLadbroke Grove)

A kitchen fire saw last orders for the Electric Brasserie, prompting redesign as a slender American-style diner with long counter, red-leather booths and a satisying French-American menu of breakfasts, burgers, steak frites and hot dogs.

oLedburyFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7792 9090; www.theledbury.com; 127 Ledbury Rd, W11; 4-course set lunch £45, 4-course dinner £90; hnoon-2pm Wed-Sun & 6.30-9.45pm daily; W; tWestbourne Park, Notting Hill Gate)

Two Michelin stars and swooningly elegant, Brett Graham’s artful French restaurant attracts well-heeled diners in jeans with designer jackets. Dishes – such as roast sea bass with broccoli stem, crab and black quinoa, or saddle of roe deer with beetroot, pinot lees and bone crisp potato – are triumphant. London gastronomes have Ledbury on speed-dial, so reservations are crucial.

WORTH A TRIP

HAMMERSMITH & SHEPHERD'S BUSH

Well within reach of Notting Hill, Hammersmith and Shepherd's Bush are well worth a detour for their eclectic restaurants and pubs.

PotliINDIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.potli.co.uk; 319-321 King St, W6; weekday 1-/2-course set lunch £6.95/9.95, mains £6.50-13.50; hnoon-2.45pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; tStamford Brook, Ravenscourt Park)

With its Bollywood posters, scattered pieces from Mumbai’s Thieves Market, Indian market kitchen/bazaar cuisine, homemade pickles and spice mixes, and accent on genuine flavour, Potli deftly captures the aromas of its culinary home. Downstairs there’s an open kitchen and service is very friendly, but it's the alluring menu that's the real crowd-pleaser.

Kerbisher & MaltFISH & CHIPS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kerbisher.co.uk; 164 Shepherd’s Bush Rd, W6; mains £5.80-6.90; hnoon-2.30pm & 4.30-10pm Tue-Thu, noon-10pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun; tHammersmith)S

The sustainably sourced, delectable, battered-or-grilled coley, haddock, pollock, cod and plaice at popular, blue-fronted Kerbisher & Malt has won over shoals of approving fish fans. The chip butties, crispy servings of whitebait and tasty double-fried chips merit equal applause.

DovePUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-8748 9474; www.dovehammersmith.co.uk; 19 Upper Mall, W6; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; tHammersmith, Ravenscourt Park)

Severely inundated by the epic floodwaters of 1928, this gem of a 17th-century Fuller's pub revels in historic charm and superb Thames views. Scottish poet James Thompson was reputedly inspired to write the lyrics to 'Rule Britannia' here in the 18th century, it was Graham Greene’s local, and Hemingway and Dylan Thomas drank here, too, while William Morris lived nearby.

Marylebone

You won't go too far wrong planting yourself on a table anywhere along Marylebone's charming High St.

La FromagerieCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lafromagerie.co.uk; 2-6 Moxon St, W1; mains £7-16.50; h8am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; tBaker St)

This deli-cafe has bowls of delectable salads, antipasto, peppers and beans scattered about the long communal table. Huge slabs of bread invite you to tuck in, and all the while the heavenly waft from the cheese room beckons.

Locanda LocatelliITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7935 9088; www.locandalocatelli.com; 8 Seymour St, W1; mains from £13.50; hnoon-3pm daily, 6.45-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.15pm Sun; W; tMarble Arch)

Known for its sublime but pricey pasta dishes, this dark but quietly glamorous restaurant in an otherwise unremarkable hotel is one of London's hottest tables.

Providores & Tapa RoomFUSION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7935 6175; www.theprovidores.co.uk; 109 Marylebone High St, W1; 2-/3-/4-/5-course dinner £33/47/57/63; h9am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun; W; tBaker St)

New Zealand's most distinctive culinary export since kiwi fruit, chef Peter Gordon works his fusion magic here, matching his creations with NZ wines. Downstairs, in a cute play on words, the Tapa Room (as in the Polynesian bark-cloth) serves sophisticated tapas, along with excellent breakfasts.

Bloomsbury & St Pancras

Diwana Bhel Poori HouseINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 121-123 Drummond St, NW1; mains £7-9; hnoon-11.30pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; v; tEuston, Euston Sq)

This ace Indian vegetarian eatery specialises in bhel poori (sweet-and-sour, soft and crunchy 'party mix' snacks), dosas (filled rice-flour pancakes), thali and the all-you-can-eat, lunchtime buffet (£6.95) is a legendary blowout.

CaravanMEDITERRANEAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7101 7661; www.caravankingscross.co.uk; Granary Bldg, 1 Granary Sq, N1C; mains £7-15; h8am-10.30pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 10am-midnight Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; Wv; tKing's Cross St Pancras)

In the freshly renovated Granary Building by the eye-catching piazza of Granary Sq alongside Regent's Canal, Caravan is a vast, tasty and trendy (industrial chic) stop for fusion Mediterranean cuisine. Book ahead.

North Sea Fish RestaurantFISH & CHIPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.northseafishrestaurant.co.uk; 7-8 Leigh St, WC1; mains £10-20; hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun; tRussell Sq)

Every day is fryday at the North Sea, a classic chippie for eat-in or takeaway with jumbo-sized plaice or halibut steaks, deep-fried or grilled, and lashings of chips.

Fitzrovia

Tucked away behind busy Tottenham Court Rd, Fitzrovia's Charlotte and Goodge Sts form one of central London's most vibrant eating precincts.

DabbousMODERN EUROPEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7323 1544; www.dabbous.co.uk; 39 Whitfield St, W1; mains £12-16; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat; tGoodge St)

You’ll need to book ahead for dinner or come for lunch (four courses £28) at this creation from Ollie Dabbous. The rather stark and pared down ambience may not suit all tastes, but it's offset by an inventive menu stuffed with surprises and ideas; the basement cocktail bar is just the place for a pre-meal libation.

oLimaSOUTH AMERICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3002 2640; www.limalondon.com; 31 Rathbone Place, W1; mains £10-29; hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; W; tTottenham Court Rd)

Sublimely zestful Peruvian flavours percolate at the heart of this neat and unassuming Fitzrovia restaurant. The stunningly presented cuisine has pulled a Michelin star and helpful staff take pride in their work.

Hakkasan Hanway PlaceCHINESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7927 7000; www.hakkasan.com; 8 Hanway Place, W1; mains £11-100; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun, 5.30-11pm Sun-Wed, to 12.15am Thu-Sat; W; tTottenham Court Rd)

Michelin-starred Hakkasan elegantly pairs fine Chinese dining with stunning design and some persuasive cocktail chemistry. The low-lighting hits all the right romantic notes and the expansive menu runs from Szechuan mabo tofu to grilled Shanghai dumplings, Peking duck and beyond.

CHAIN-CHAIN-CHAIN, CHAIN OF FOODS

Among the endless Caffe Neros and Pret a Mangers are some fab fallback options. Here are some of the best:

Konditor & Cook (www.konditorandcook.com) London's best bakery chain, serving excellent cakes, pastries, bread and coffee.

Jamie's Italian (www.jamieoliver.com) Good Italian food in a modern setting.

Masala Zone (www.masalazone.com) Fantastic Indian chain specialising in thalis (a meal made of several small dishes).

Nando's (www.nandos.co.uk) Loved by Londoners for fantastic value, mouthwatering spicy chicken a la portuguesa – with some blindingly hot peri-peri sauces.

Pizza Express (www.pizzaexpress.com) Excellent pizza, neat ambience and standout locations across London.

Wagamama (www.wagamama.com) Japanese noodles taking over the world from their London base.

Wahaca (www.wahaca.com) Working the Mexican street-food angle in fresh, colourful settings.

Wasabi (www.wasabi.uk.com) Cooking up a Japanese storm down the high street.

Zizzi (www.zizzi.co.uk) Wood-fired pizza.

Camden Town

Camden is great for cheap eats, while neighbouring Chalk Farm and Primrose Hill are salted with gastropubs and upmarket restaurants.

Camden Town

1Sights

1Camden MarketC3

5Eating

2Mango RoomD3

6Drinking & Nightlife

3Lock TavernB2

3Entertainment

4BarflyB2

5Dublin CastleC4

6RoundhouseA2

7Shopping

7Camden Lock MarketC2

8Stables MarketB2

Dirty BurgerBURGERS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.eatdirtyburger.com; 79 Highgate Rd, NW5; burgers £5.50; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat, noon-10pm Sun; dGospel Oak, tKentish Town)

More chic shack than restaurant, Dirty Burger is all about burgers (beyond sausages and bacon till 11am) and crinkle-cut fries. And what burgers: thick, juicy and messy, with mustard, gherkin and cheese. The shakes are good, too.

Mango RoomCARIBBEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7482 5065; www.mangoroom.co.uk; 10-12 Kentish Town Rd, NW1; mains £8-15; hnoon-11pm; tCamden Town)

Mango Room is an upmarket Caribbean experience serving a mix of modern and trad­itional dishes – Creole snapper, goat curry, jerk chicken – set to ska and reggae beats.

Islington

Allow at least an evening to explore Islington's Upper St, along with the lanes leading off it.

TrulloITALIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7226 2733; www.trullorestaurant.com; 300-302 St Paul's Rd, N1; mains £8.50-16, 2-/3-course lunch £15/19; h12.30-3pm daily, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; tHighbury & Islington)

Alongside fine service, the big plus here is an enjoyable variety beyond pasta or pizza. There are some exquisite pasta dishes, for sure, but the star attraction is the charcoal grill, which churns out succulent T-bone steaks or tasty pork chops with baked borlotti beans or polenta. Bookings essential.

Le MercuryFRENCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7354 4088; www.lemercury.co.uk; 140a Upper St, N1; mains £9.95; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat, to 11pm Sun; tHighbury & Islington, Angel)

A cosy Gallic haunt ideal for cash-strapped Casanovas, given that it appears much more expensive than it is. Sunday lunch by the open fire upstairs is a treat, though you'll have to book. There's another branch up the road at Le Mercury Deuxieme ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lemercury.co.uk; 154-155 Upper St, N1; mains £9.95; h5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, noon-midnight Fri & Sat, noon-11pm Sun; tHighbury & Islington).

OttolenghiBAKERY, MEDITERRANEAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7288 1454; www.ottolenghi.co.uk; 287 Upper St, N1; mains £9-12; h8am-11pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun; v; tHighbury & Islington, Angel)

Mountains of mer­ingues tempt you through the door, where a sumptuous array of bakery treats and salads greets you. Meals are as light and tasty as the lovely white interior design. Vege­tarians are well catered for. There are further branches in Belgravia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 13 Motcomb St, SW1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; tKnightsbridge), Kensington ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Holland St, W8; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun ; tHigh St Kensington) and Notting Hill ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 63 Ledbury Rd , W11; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat, 8.30am-6pm Sun; tNotting Hill Gate).

Clerkenwell & Farringdon

Clerkenwell's hidden gems are well worth digging for. Pedestrianised Exmouth Market is a good place to start.

Little BayEUROPEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7278 1234; www.little-bay.co.uk; 171 Farringdon Rd, EC1; mains before/after 7pm £6.45/8.45; tFarringdon)

The crushed-velvet ceiling, handmade twisted lamps that improve around the room (as the artist got better) and elaborately painted bar and tables showing frolicking nymphs are weird but fun. The hearty food is very good value.

Prufrock CoffeeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.prufrockcoffee.com; 23-25 Leather Lane, EC1; mains £5.50-9.50; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun; W; tChancery Lane, Farringdon)

Coffee-holics and caffeine geeks must trek to Clerkenwell for some of the finest brews in town, served by a talented line-up of staff in an inviting and light-filled space, with practice sessions and classes for baristas-to-be.

MoritoTAPAS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7278 7007; www.morito.co.uk; 32 Exmouth Market, EC1; tapas £4.50-9.50; hnoon-4pm daily, 5-11pm Mon-Sat; W; tFarringdon or Angel)

This titchy venue is an authentic take on a Spanish tapas bar. Seats are at the bar, along the window, or on one of the small tables inside or out. It’s relaxed, convivial and often completely crammed. The food is excellent; you can book at lunch, but not in the evening.

St JohnBRITISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7251 0848; www.stjohnrestaurant.com; 26 St John St, EC1; mains £17-23; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-3pm Sun; tFarringdon)

Bright whitewashed brick walls, high ceilings and simple wooden furniture keep diners free to concentrate on the world-famous nose-to-tail offerings. Expect chitterlings and ox tongue.

Modern PantryFUSION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7553 9210; www.themodernpantry.co.uk; 47-48 St John's Sq, EC1; mains £14-21.50; hnoon-3pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat; W; tFarringdon)

One of London's most talked-about eateries, this three-floor Georgian townhouse in the heart of Clerkenwell has a cracking innovative, all-day menu.

Hoxton, Shoreditch & Spitalfields

From the hit-and-miss Bangladeshi restaurants of Brick Lane to the Vietnamese strip on Kingsland Rd, and the Jewish, Spanish, French, Italian and Greek eateries in between, the East End's cuisine is as multicultural as its residents.

Sông Quê CaféVIETNAMESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.songque.co.uk; 134 Kingsland Rd, E2; mains £6-9; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun; tHoxton)

Arrive after 7.30pm and you can expect to queue: this humble eatery is one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in London and you'll be shunted out shortly after your last bite.

Brick Lane Beigel BakeBAGELS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 159 Brick Lane, E2; bagels £1-4; h24hr; tShoreditch High St, Liverpool St)

Always busy, this relic of London's Jewish East End is more takeaway than cafe and sells dirt-cheap bagels, a top late-night snack on a bellyful of booze.

PoppiesFISH & CHIPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk; 6-8 Hanbury St, E1; mains £7-16; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; W; tShoreditch High St, Liverpool St)

Frying since 1945, this fantastic Spitalfields chippie is a retro delight, a throwback to the 1950s with iconic jukebox, wall-to-wall memorabilia, waitresses in pinnies and hairnets and classic fish and chips (plus jellied eels).

AlbionBRITISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7729 1051; www.albioncaff.co.uk; 2-4 Boundary St, E2; mains £9-13; h8am-11pm; W; tOld St)

For those wanting to be taken back to Dear Old Blighty's cuis­ine, but with rather less grease and stodge, this self-consciously retro 'caff' serves up top-quality bangers and mash, steak-and-kidney pies, devilled kidneys and, of course, fish and chips.

The East End

FormansBRITISH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-8525 2365; www.formans.co.uk; Stour Rd, Fish Island, E3; mains £11.50-19.50; h7-11pm Thu & Fri, 10am-2pm & 7-11pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; W; tHackney)

Curing fish since 1905, riverside Formans boasts prime views over the Olympic stadium alongside a delectable choice of smoked salmon (including the signature London cure) and seafood, plus a choice of other mouthwatering British dishes. A viewing gallery into the smokery and a lounge bar rounds out an attractive picture.