Burford
Pop 1190
Slithering down a steep hill to a medieval crossing point on the River Windrush, the remarkable village of Burford is little changed since its glory days at the height of the wool trade. It's a particularly picturesque place with higgledy-piggledy stone cottages, fine Cotswold town houses and the odd Elizabethan or Georgian treasure. Antique shops, tearooms and specialist boutiques peddle nostalgia to the hordes of visitors who make it here in summer, but despite the crowds it's easy to get off the main drag and wander along quiet side streets seemingly lost in time.
1Sights
St John the Baptist's ChurchCHURCH
(www.burfordchurch.org; Church Lane)
Commenced in 1175 and added to over the years, Burford's sturdy stone church has managed to survive reformers and Roundheads (supporters of parliament against the king in the English Civil War) with its fine fan-vaulted ceiling and several grand tombs intact. The best of these is the macabre 1626 Tanfield tomb, which has effigies of a noble couple in all their finery on top and as skeletons below.
During the Civil War, 340 Levellers were imprisoned here – Roundhead soldiers who mutinied due to their leaders' failure to uphold the notion of equality of all men before the law. One of them carved his name in the lead lining of the font. A plaque outside the church entrance commemorates the three ringleaders who were executed in the churchyard.
Just outside the churchyard, you'll find the town's 15th-century almshouses
Tolsey HouseNOTABLE BUILDING
(cnr High & Sheep Sts)
Perched on sturdy pillars, this unusual 16th-century building was originally the place to pay market tolls.
Cotswold Wildlife ParkZOO
(
%01993-823006; www.cotswoldwildlifepark.co.uk; adult/child £15/10; 
h10am-5pm; 
c)
Younger visitors will enjoy a visit to this hugely popular place, 3 miles south of Burford. It's home to a vast menagerie of penguins, zebras, white rhinos, lions and much more. A miniature train (£1) and petting zoo take the excitement up a notch. Last admission is 1½ hours before closing time.
2Activities
There are several picturesque walks from Burford, including the one along the river path to the untouched and rarely visited village of Swinbrook (3 miles), where 12th-century St Mary's Church has the remarkably jaunty tombs of the Fettiplace family who dominated the area for 500 years. Downton Abbey fans will recognise the pub as the place where Lady Sybil and Branson stayed while planning their elopement.
4Sleeping & Eating
oStar CottageB&B
(%01993-822032; www.burfordbedandbreakfast.co.uk; Meadow Lane, Fulbrook; s/d from £70/80; 
W)
In the village of Fulbrook, a 15-minute walk from Burford, this wonderful old Cotswold cottage has two comfortable and character-filled en suite rooms, the smaller of which has a grand canopied bed. The cooked breakfasts are excellent.
BullHOTEL
(%01993-822220; www.bullatburford.co.uk; 105 High St; s/d from £65/80; 
pW)
You'll be following in the footsteps of guests as illustrious as Charles II and Horatio Nelson if you stay at this 15th-century hotel. The plusher rooms feature four-poster beds and antique furniture, and the restaurant is pure gourmet, with beautifully executed dishes making the most of local ingredients.
Lamb InnPUB
(%01993-823155; www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk/lamb; Sheep St; s/d from £150/160; W)
At this atmospheric 15th-century inn, expect flagstone floors, exposed beams, creaking stairs, a laid-back vibe and luxurious period-style rooms with antique furniture. The restaurant serves top-notch modern British food (two-/three-course dinner £33/39); there's less-formal dining in the bar (mains from £8 to £15).
AngelPUB
(%01993-822714; www.theangelatburford.co.uk; 14 Witney St; mains £14-17; hnoon-11.30pm; W)
Set in a lovely 16th-century coaching inn, this atmospheric pub serves up a tasty menu of modern British food. Dine by roaring fires in winter, or eat alfresco in the lovely walled garden in warmer weather. There are three traditionally decorated rooms upstairs (£90 to £120) if you wish to linger.
Spice LoungeINDIAN, BANGLADESHI
(%07833 292255; www.spiceloungeburford.co.uk; 81 High St; mains £7-13; hnoon-2pm Sat-Thu, 6-11pm daily; W
v)
White linen and brown-leather chairs set the scene for an upmarket restaurant serving excellent Bangladeshi and Indian fare. All your favourite curries and tandoori dishes feature, along with some lesser-known regional specialities.
HuffkinsBAKERY, CAFE
(www.huffkins.com; 98 High St; mains £7-12; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)
Since 1890 Huffkins has been baking and serving delicious scones, cakes and pies. More substantial fare includes cooked breakfasts, macaroni cheese, Welsh rarebit and burgers.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%01993-823558; www.oxfordshirecotswolds.org; 33a High St; h9.30am-5pm)
8Getting There & Away
Most buses stop on the High St or Sheep St. Bus destinations to/from Burford:
ACheltenham (route 853) £3.80, 45 minutes
AGloucester (853) £5, 1¼ hours
AOxford (853) £4.20, 45 minutes
AMinster Lovell (233/853) £1.60, nine minutes
AWitney (233/853) £3.10, 19 minutes
Minster Lovell
Pop 1340
Set on a gentle slope leading down to the meandering River Windrush, Minster Lovell is a gorgeous village with a cluster of stone cottages nestled beside an ancient pub and riverside mill. One of William Morris' favourite spots, the village has changed little since medieval times. It's divided into two halves: Old Minster, recorded in the Domesday Book (1086) and the rather newer Minster Lovell, across the river and up the hill.
1Sights
Minster Lovell HallHISTORIC BUILDING
The main sight in Old Minster is Minster Lovell Hall, the 15th-century manor house that was home to Viscount Francis Lovell. The manor is now in ruins; you can peek past the blackened walls into the roofless great hall and the interior courtyard, while the wind whistles eerily through the gaping windows.
Lovell fought with Richard III at the Battle of Bosworth in 1485 and joined Lambert Simnel's failed rebellion after the king's defeat and death. Lovell's mysterious disappearance was never explained, and when a skeleton was discovered inside a secret vault in the house in 1708, it was assumed he had died while in hiding.
4Sleeping & Eating
Old Swan & Minster MillHOTEL, PUB
(%01993-774441; www.oldswanandminstermill.com; Old Minster; d/ste from £165/285, mains £14-22; hOld Swan noon-3pm & 6-9pm; pWc
#)
This luxurious complex has charming period-style rooms in a 600-year-old pub and sleek, contemporary design in the converted 19th-century mill. Spa treatments are available at the mill, while the Old Swan serves excellent gastropub food, with doorstep sandwiches for lunch, and handmade sausages, daily fish and game for dinner.
8Getting There & Away
Bus destinations:
ABurford (route 233/853) £1.60, nine minutes
ACheltenham (853) £4.60, 52 minutes
AGloucester (853) £5.60, 1½ hours
AOxford (S2/853) £3.90, 46 minutes
AWitney (233/S2/853) £2.60, six minutes
2Driving Tour
Classic Cotswolds
Start Burford
End Winchcombe
Length 50 miles; one day
Given its large network of winding country lanes linking ancient market towns, timeless villages and magnificent stately homes, it's impossible to cover all of the Cotswolds' highlights in one day. This tour spans three counties and ticks off some of the most picturesque parts of the northern half of the range. It can easily be driven in a day, but could be stretched into two or three.
Begin in Oxfordshire at the pretty market town of 1Burford and then head west on the A40 into Gloucestershire and follow the signs to 2Northleach. The Escape to the Cotswolds visitor centre on the edge of this classic Cotswolds town has excellent displays covering all you need to know about the history, geography, flora and fauna of the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). From here, head northeast on the A429 and follow the signs to 3Lower Slaughter, a picture-perfect village lined with houses made of the golden stone so typical of the area. If you've got time, take the 1 mile walk to 4Upper Slaughter, less often visited than its sibling but no less attractive due to its idyllic setting between a small ford and the hills. If you've had the wherewithal to book ahead, stop for lunch at Michelin-starred Lords of the Manor, housed in a Jacobean mansion.
Continue on to 5Stow-on-the-Wold, the highest of the Cotswold villages at 244m and a market town since the 12th century. After perusing the market square, take the A429 north following the route of the ancient Roman road, the Fosse Way. After 4 miles you'll reach 6Moreton-in-Marsh, a town known for its weekly market and excellent local food shops.
From Moreton, take the A44 west through tiny 7Bourton-on-the-Hill, lined with attractive 17th- and 18th-century cottages and famous for two things: the gibbeting cage in which the bodies of dead highwaymen were hung in the 19th century, and horse training – there are several stud farms in the vicinity of the village. This is a good alternative spot to pause for lunch.
Continuing on, turn right onto the B4081 and head to 8Chipping Campden, one of the Cotswold's prettiest towns. After admiring the buildings on the main street – and if you're not tempted to stay the night – backtrack to the A44, cross into the Worcestershire corner of the Cotswolds and head down the hill to 9Broadway. After cruising along the broad main street, take the B4632 south in the direction of Cheltenham.
After three miles, take the left turn-off to aStanton. A little stunner of a village, its houses are crafted out of that golden Cotswolds stone, with not a shop or quaint tearoom in sight. The buildings most likely to catch your eye are the Jacobean Stanton Court and the fine Perpendicular tower of St Michael & All Angels' Church, which has an absolutely beguiling medieval interior. Stanton Court once belonged to civil architect Sir Philip Stott (1858–1937), who was responsible for the restoration of many other houses in the village.
You'll undoubtedly see walkers passing through the village, heading south along the Cotswold Way to the village of bStanway, just a mile south; follow the narrow road that runs parallel to the trail. There is little more to Stanway than a few thatched-roofed cottages, a church and Stanway House, a magnificent Jacobean mansion hidden behind a triple-gabled gatehouse. Its baroque water gardens feature Britain's tallest fountain, which erupts, geyser-like, to a height of 300ft. The manor has been the private home of the Earls of Wemyss for 500 years and has a delightful, lived-in charm with much of its original furniture and character intact. It's only open to the public on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons from June to August (adult/child £7/2).
After passing through Stanway, turn right onto the B4077 and then left back onto the B4632. The next stop is cWinchcombe, an ancient Saxon town with some great eating and sleeping options. You'll probably want to stop here for the night so that you can explore wonderful Sudeley Castle in the morning. Otherwise, continue on to the relatively bright lights of Cheltenham.
Northleach
Pop 1860
Little visited and underappreciated, Northleach has been a little market town since 1227 and comprises late-medieval cottages, imposing merchants' stores and half-timbered Tudor houses. A wonderful mix of architectural styles clusters around the market square and the narrow laneways leading off it.
1Sights
Escape to the CotswoldsINTERPRETATION CENTRE
(www.cotswoldsaonb.co.uk; A429; h9.30am-4.30pm; W)
F
Housed in the Old Prison (an attraction in itself), this is the official visitor centre for the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), and has displays outlining the area's history, ecology and attractions. There's also a cafe and a collection of agricultural wagons in the rear courtyard.
Church of St Peter & St PaulCHURCH
(www.northleach.org; Church Walk; h10am-dusk)
The grandeur and complexity of this masterpiece of the Cotswold Perpendicular style is testimony to its wool-era wealth. Although the chancel dates to around 1350, the building was extensively reworked during the 15th century wool boom. A modern highlight is the large 1964 stained-glass window behind the altar depicting Christ in Glory.
Keith Harding's World of Mechanical MusicMUSEUM
(www.mechanicalmusic.co.uk; High St; adult/child £8/3.50; h10am-5pm)
Near Northleach's market square is Oak House, a 17th-century wool house containing this fascinating museum of lovingly restored self-playing musical instruments. Entry is by way of hour-long guided tours.
Chedworth Roman VillaARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Yanworth; adult/child £9/4.50; h10am-4pm Feb-Nov)
Rediscovered in 1864 by a gamekeeper out ferreting, these extensive ruins represent one of the largest and most luxurious Roman villas in England. The earliest section dates to around AD 175, but it's thought to have been at its most magnificent in around AD 362, with two sets of bathhouses, a formal dining room with underfloor heating and a water shrine. It's 4.5 miles southwest of town, signposted from the A429.
4Sleeping & Eating
oWheatsheafPUB
(%01451-860244; www.cotswoldswheatsheaf.com; West End; d £140-180, mains £11-20; h8-10am, noon-3pm & 6-9.30pm; pWc#)
The 14 rooms at this former coaching inn blend nice period touches, such as free-standing baths, with modern comforts, such as power showers. The restaurant is excellent, serving a menu of hearty British dishes including diabolically good devilled kidneys.
8Getting There & Away
Buses head to/from the following:
ACheltenham (route 801/853) £1.80, 30 minutes
ACirencester (855) £2.20, 30 minutes
AGloucester (853) £3, one hour
AMoreton-in-Marsh (801) £2.20, 40 minutes
AOxford (853) £6, one hour
The Slaughters
Pop 400
The picture-postcard villages of Upper and Lower Slaughter manage to maintain their unhurried medieval charm in spite of receiving a multitude of visitors. The village names have nothing to do with abattoirs; they are derived from the Old English 'sloughtre', meaning slough or muddy place. Today the River Eye is contained within limestone banks and meanders peacefully through the village past the 17th-century Lower Slaughter Manor to the Old Mill (www.oldmill-lowerslaughter.com; adult/child £2.50/1; h10am-6pm), which houses a small museum, cafe and ice cream parlour.
4Sleeping & Eating
Lords of the ManorHOTEL
(%01451-820243; www.lordsofthemanor.com; Upper Slaughter; d £199-495, 3-course meal £69; hrestaurant noon-3pm Sun, 6-9pm daily; pW)
'Countryside splendour' is what comes to mind when you clap your eyes on this 17th-century mansion. Its rooms are spacious and supremely tasteful, and the Michelin-starred restaurant is one of the best in the Cotswolds, concocting imaginative, beautifully presented dishes.
8Getting There & Away
Pulhams (www.pulhamscoaches.com) bus 801 heads between Lower Slaughter and Northleach (£1.80, 20 minutes), Stow-on-the-Wold (£1.70, seven minutes), Moreton-in-Marsh (£1.70, 17 minutes) and Cheltenham (£3, 33 minutes); no Sunday service.
Stow-on-the-Wold
Pop 2050
The highest town in the Cotswolds (244m), Stow is anchored by a large market square surrounded by handsome buildings and steep-walled alleyways, originally used to funnel the sheep into the fair. It's still an important market town and has long held a strategic place in Cotswold history, standing as it does on the Roman Fosse Way and at the junction of six roads. Today, it's famous for its twice-yearly Stow Horse Fair (May and October), where Romany people and other travellers have gathered for more than 500 years.
4Sleeping
Stow-on-the-Wold YHAHOSTEL
(%0845 3719540; www.yha.org.uk; Market Sq; dm £19; 
iWc)
You can't get more central than this location on the market square. The Cotswolds' only YHA is located in a wonderful 16th-century town house, with compact dorms, a children's play area and its own on-site cafe, which serves inexpensive hot meals.
Number 9B&B
(%01451-870333; www.number-nine.info; 9 Park St; s/d from £45/65; W)
Centrally located and wonderfully atmospheric, this friendly B&B is all sloping floors, low ceilings and exposed beams. The three rooms are cosy but spacious and each has its own bathroom.
Number Four at StowHOTEL
(%01451-830297; www.hotelnumberfour.co.uk; Fosse Way; s/d from £115/130; pW)
While not exactly 'at Stow' (it's a steep mile's walk from town on the main road to Burford), Number Four has a popular restaurant and 18 modern rooms with bathrooms. Standard rooms are a little cramped (especially for the prices charged), but nicely furnished.
5Eating
Bell at StowPUB
(%01451-870916; www.thebellatstow.com; Park St; mains £13-16; h11am-11pm)
Stow has plenty of cool old pubs but the Bell is the best. Lurking on the eastern edge of town, it serves a lively and varied menu stretching from Wiener schnitzel to jerk chicken to jambalaya. A selection of fresh fish dishes is chalked up on the blackboard daily.
Vine LeafCAFE
(%01451-832010; www.thevineleaf.co.uk; 10 Talbot Ct; mains £9-16, 2-/3-course menu £12/15; h11.30am-9pm Tue-Sat Apr-Sep, Wed-Sat Oct-Mar)
A wonderful little catch-all cafe, serving chunky lunchtime sandwiches with locally baked bread, burgers, Mediterranean-style meze and more substantial bistro-style mains crafted from locally sourced produce.
8Getting There & Away
Pulhams bus 801 heads to/from Moreton-in-Marsh (£1.70, 15 minutes), Lower Slaughter (£1.70, seven minutes), Northleach (£2.10, 26 minutes) and Cheltenham (£3, one hour), Monday to Saturday.
The Witney Shuttle (www.witneyshuttle.com) has scheduled runs to/from Heathrow (£88, two hours) and Gatwick (£108, three hours) airports.
WORTH A TRIP
COTSWOLD FARM PARK
Cotswold Farm ParkZOO
(www.cotswoldfarmpark.co.uk; Guiting Power; adult/child £9/8; h10.30am-4.30pm Mar-Nov; c)
Owned by TV presenter Adam Henson, Cotswold Farm Park is designed to introduce little ones to the world of farm animals while also preserving rare breeds. There are milking and shearing demonstrations, an adventure playground and pedal tractors to ride on. It's located in Guiting Power, halfway between Stow-on-the-Wold and Winchcombe, signposted from the B4077.
Chipping Norton
Pop 5720
The hilly town of Chipping Norton ('Chippy', to locals) has plenty of quiet side streets to wander and none of the Cotswold crowds. Handsome Georgian buildings and old coaching inns cluster around the market square, while on Church St you'll find a row of beautiful honey-coloured almshouses built in the 17th century.
1Sights
St Mary's ChurchCHURCH
This secluded church is a classic example of the Cotswold wool churches, with a magnificent Perpendicular nave and clerestory. While most of the church was built in 1448, two of the arches in the chancel date to around 1200. In the hexagonal porch, take time to gaze up at the carved ceiling bosses that include the possibly pagan but common visitor to British churches, the Green Man.
Bliss MillLANDMARK
Chipping Norton's most enduring landmark is the arresting Bliss Mill on the western outskirts of town. This monument to the industrial architecture of the 19th century is more like a stately home than a factory, topped by a domed tower and chimney stack of the Tuscan order. It's been converted into luxury flats, so content yourself to admiring it as you drive along the A44.
5Eating
Wild ThymeMODERN BRITISH
(%01608-645060; www.wildthymerestaurant.co.uk; 10 New St; mains £18-19, 2-/3-course lunch £18/23; hnoon-2pm Wed-Sun, 7-9pm Tue-Sat)
This little 'restaurant with rooms' thrills the palate with top-notch dishes such as goat's-cheese soufflé with red-onion marmalade. The desserts are nothing short of sublime, and the three upstairs rooms (single/double from £65/75) have feather duvets and Egyptian cotton bedding.
7Shopping
oJaffé & Neale Bookshop CafeBOOKS
(www.jaffeandneale.co.uk; 1 Middle Row; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
This great little independent bookshop serves delicious cakes to tables squeezed between the bookshelves. Upstairs there's a good second-hand selection.
8Getting There & Away
Buses head to/from the following:
AOxford (route S3) £4.30, 56 minutes
AStratford-upon-Avon (50) £5.40, 45 minutes
AWitney (233/X9) £3.40, 45 minutes
AWoodstock (S3) £3.80, 25 minutes
On Sundays buses head to Burford (233; £3.80, 30 minutes).
Moreton-in-Marsh
Pop 3500
Home to some beautiful buildings but plagued by heavy traffic that clogs up its broad High St (built on top of the Roman Fosse Way), Moreton-in-Marsh is a major transport hub known for its excellent food shops stocking Cotswold produce. On Tuesdays, the town bursts into life for its weekly market, and if you're here in September, don't miss the one-day Moreton Show (www.moretonshow.co.uk), the ultimate agricultural extravaganza, attracting up to 20,000 people with the best of local food and gussied-up livestock competitions.
1Sights & Activities
Chastleton HouseHOUSE
(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/child £8.50/4; h12.30-3pm Wed-Sun Mar-Oct)
Five miles east of Moreton (off the A44), Chastleton is one of England's finest and most complete Jacobean houses. Full of rare tapestries, family portraits and antique furniture, its Long Gallery is particularly resplendent. Outside, there's a wonderful topiary garden.
Batsford ArboretumPARK
(www.batsarb.co.uk; Batsford Park; adult/child £7/3; h10am-5pm; #)
Created by Bertie Mitford (Lord Redesdale) in 1880, these exotic woodlands feature more than 3300 labelled trees, bamboos and shrubs from Nepal, China, Japan and North America. Highlights include vast American redwoods, flowering Japanese cherries (at their best in spring) and the strangely churchlike 'cathedral' lime.
oCotswold Falconry CentreAVIARY
(www.cotswold-falconry.co.uk; Batsford Park; adult/child £10/5; h10.30am-5pm mid-Feb–mid-Oct)
Home to numerous species of owl, vulture, eagle and, of course, falcon, this interesting place offers displays of the ancient practice of falconry at 11.30am, 1.30pm and 3pm daily (plus 4.30pm in summer). The birds fly at their best on windy days. Various hands-on experiences are also offered (from £40).
4Sleeping & Eating
White Hart Royal HotelHOTEL
(%01608-650731; www.whitehartroyal.co.uk; High St; s/d from £72/86)
The 'Royal' in the name relates to the fact that Charles I once stayed here during the Civil War, and while he probably didn't make use of the iPod docks, flatscreen TVs and en suite bathrooms, he certainly would have walked down the atmospheric half-timbered corridors. The downstairs restaurant has plenty of charm, too.
oHorse & GroomPUB
(%01386-700413; www.horseandgroom.info; mains £14-20; hnoon-2pm daily, 7-9pm Mon-Sat; pW)
In the village of Bourton-on-the-Hill, 2 miles from Moreton-in-Marsh, this relaxed pub excels at upmarket country cooking showcasing local lamb and beef, alongside flavour-filled fish dishes. It's a firm favourite with the well-heeled horsey types who live hereabouts. It also has rooms upstairs (single/double £80/120).
8Getting There & Away
Bus
From Monday to Saturday buses head to/from the following:
ABroadway (route 21/973) £3, 25 minutes
ACheltenham (801/813) £3.30, 1¼ hours
AChipping Campden (21/22/816) £3, 40 minutes
A Stow-on-the-Wold (801/817) £1.70, 15 minutes
AStratford-upon-Avon (21/22/23) £5, one hour
Train
Trains head to/from the following:
A Hereford £18, two hours
ALedbury £17, 1½ hours
ALondon Paddington £33, 1¾ hours
AOxford £9.60, 35 minutes
AWorcester £12, 45 minutes
Chipping Campden
Pop 2290
An absolute gem in an area full of pretty towns, Chipping Campden is a glorious reminder of life in the Cotswolds in medieval times. The graceful curving main street is flanked by a picturesque array of stone cottages, fine terraced houses, ancient inns and historic homes, many made of that honey-coloured stone that the Cotswolds is so famous for. Despite its obvious allure, the town remains relatively unspoiled by visiting crowds, though it is very popular with walkers rambling along the Cotswold Way.
While the village's name derives from the Old English 'ceapen', meaning 'market', 'Chippy's' visible prosperity derives from its past as a successful wool town.
1Sights & Activities
St James' ChurchCHURCH
(www.stjameschurchcampden.co.uk; Church St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5.45pm Sun Apr-Oct, 11am-3pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun Nov-Mar)
Built in the 15th century in Perpendicular Gothic style, imposing St James' has a magnificent tower and some graceful 17th-century monuments. Nearby on Church St is a remarkable row of almshouses dating from 1612.
Court Barn MuseumMUSEUM
(%01386-841951; www.courtbarn.org.uk; Church St; adult/child £4/free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun)
Chipping Campden has been linked with the Arts and Crafts Movement since architect and designer Charles Robert Ashbee moved his Guild of Handicrafts from East London to here in 1902. This small but interesting design museum features work from luminaries of the movement, which celebrated the work of the traditional artisan in an age of industrialisation.
The barn once belonged to Campden House, a grand 17th-century merchant's pad that was burned down by Royalist soldiers during the Civil War. Some of its lodges have since been restored and are available for holiday lets through the Landmark Trust (www.landmarktrust.org.uk); it's closed to nonresidents but you can peer through the gates.
Grevel HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(High St)
One of the grandest residences on the High St, 14th-century Grevel House was home to the highly successful wool merchant William Grevel. It's not open to the public, but you can admire the splendid Perpendicular Gothic–style gabled window from the street.
Market HallHISTORIC BUILDING
(High St)
In the middle of the High St stands the highly photogenic 17th-century Market Hall, an open-sided building where dairy farmers used to sell their produce. It looks like a cross between a barn and a chapel, with its simple arches, uneven stone floors, multiple gables and elaborate timber roof.
Guild Craft WorkshopsARTS CENTRE
(www.thegalleryattheguild.co.uk; Sheep St; h10am-4.30pm)F
This former silk mill (circa 1790) was the home of Charles Ashbee's Guild of Handicrafts from 1902 until it went bust in 1908. Many of the artisans stayed on, however, including Hart Gold & Silversmiths, who are still here to this day. Downstairs there's a cafe and a gallery showcasing the work of a cooperative of local artists and craftspeople.
HidcoteGARDENS
(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Hidcote Bartrim; adult/child £10/5; h10am-6pm)
About 4 miles northeast of Chipping Campden, this is one of the finest examples of Arts and Crafts landscaping in Britain, with outdoor 'rooms' filled with flowers and rare plants for the arboreally inclined.
Cotswold Country CyclesCYCLING
(%01386-438706; www.cotswoldcountrycycles.com; Longlands Farm Cottage; tours from £265)
Arranges maps, luggage transfers and B&B accommodation for a range of self-guided cycling itineraries through the Cotswolds countryside.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
THE COTSWOLDS OLIMPICKS
Cotswold OlimpicksSPORTS
(www.olimpickgames.co.uk; hlate May or early Jun)
The medieval sport of shin-kicking lives on in Chipping Campden, where each year the townspeople gather annually to compete at the Cotswold Olimpicks, a traditional country sports day first celebrated in 1612. It is one of the most entertaining and bizarre sporting competitions in England, and many of the original events, such as tug o' war, the sack race and climbing a slippery pole, are still held.
4Sleeping & Eating
Volunteer InnB&B
(%01386-840688; www.thevolunteerinn.net; Lower High St; s/d £35/50, with bathroom £45/60, mains £8-20; W)
Attached to a busy locals' pub, this clutch of simple rooms is a favourite haunt of walkers and cyclists travelling along the Cotswold Way. Maharaja, the pub's popular Indian restaurant, covers all the classics as well as more unusual dishes such as venison tikka masala. The Inn also rent bikes.
Eight Bells InnPUB
(%01386-840371; www.eightbellsinn.co.uk; Church St; s/d from £80/115, mains £13-19)
This 14th-century inn is an atmospheric place to stay, featuring bright, modern rooms with iron bedsteads, soothing neutral decor and warm accents. The pub downstairs wins points for its flagstone floors and good modern British country cooking.
Cotswold House & SpaHOTEL
(%01386-840330; www.cotswoldhouse.com; The Square; r from £162; hrestaurant 6.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun; pW
s)
This chic Regency town-house-turned-boutique hotel has ultracomfortable king-sized beds, lush furnishings and, in the top rooms, private gardens and hot tubs. Indulge in a spa treatment and then dine in style in the Dining Room (three-course set dinner £45).
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%01386-841206; www.campdenonline.org; High St; h9.30am-5pm daily Apr-Oct, 9.30am-1pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri-Sun Nov-Mar)
Pick up a town guide (£1.50) for a self-guided walk around the most significant buildings. Enquire about the guided tours run by the Cotswold Voluntary Wardens (from May to September; suggested donation £3).
8Getting There & Around
Johnsons Excelbus (www.johnsonscoaches.co.uk) services head to/from Moreton-in-Marsh (route 21/22/816; £3, 40 minutes), Broadway (21/608; £3, 17 minutes) and Stratford-upon-Avon (21/22; £4, 35 minutes), from Monday to Saturday.
Broadway
Pop 2540
A quintessentially English place with a smattering of antique shops, tearooms and art galleries, Broadway has inspired writers, artists and composers in times past with its graceful, golden-hued cottages set at the foot of a steep escarpment. Take the time to wander down to the lovely 12th-century St Eadburgha's Church, a signposted 1-mile walk from town.
If the neighbouring village of Snowshill looks familiar, that's because it featured in the film Bridget Jones's Diary; a local house was used as Bridget's parents' home.
1Sights
Broadway TowerTOWER
(www.broadwaytower.co.uk; Middle Hill; adult/child £4.80/3; h10am-5pm)
Near St Eadburgha's Church, a mile from Broadway, a path leads uphill for 2 miles to Broadway Tower, a crenulated 18th-century Gothic folly on the crest of the escarpment, where you'll find all-encompassing views from the top.
Snowshill ManorHOUSE
(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/child £9.80/4.90; hnoon-5pm Wed-Sun Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, 11.30am-4.30pm Wed-Mon Jul & Aug)
About 3 miles south of Broadway lies Snowshill Manor, a wonderful Cotswold mansion that was once home to the marvellously eccentric poet and architect Charles Paget Wade (1883–1956). The house contains Wade's extraordinary collection of crafts and design, including everything from musical instruments to Victorian perambulators and Japanese samurai armour. The impressive gardens were designed as an extension of the house, with pools, terraces and wonderful views.
4Sleeping & Eating
Crown & TrumpetPUB
(%01386-853202; www.cotswoldholidays.co.uk; 14 Church St; r £60; pW)
For modern comfort within a 300-year-old exterior, this friendly pub offers five en suite rooms complete with sloped floors, exposed beams and low ceilings. Downstairs is a good bet for real ales and a proper roast dinner.
Russell'sHOTEL
(%01386-853555; www.russellsofbroadway.co.uk; 20 High St; r from £115, 2-/3-course menu £14/17; hrestaurant noon-2.30pm daily, 6-9.30pm Mon-Sat; pW)
Sleek and stylish Russell's has seven spacious, individually designed rooms, some with exposed beams and four-poster beds, and all with modern luxuries such as contemporary bathrooms and iPod docks. It's known for its beautifully executed modern British fare.
Lygon ArmsHOTEL
(%01386-852255; www.pumahotels.co.uk; High St, Broadway; r from £126; pWs)
Choose medieval splendour or modern chic at this 16th-century inn in the heart of Broadway. It's a grand old place, with a golden stone exterior and half-timbered walls inside. There's also a good restaurant.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%01386-852937; www.beautifulbroadway.com; Russell Sq; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)
8Getting There & Away
Buses head to/from the following:
A Cheltenham (route 606/608) 47 minutes
AChipping Campden (21/22/608) £3, 17 minutes
AMoreton-in-Marsh (21/22/973) £3, 25 minutes
AStratford-upon-Avon (21) £4, 52 minutes
AWinchcombe (606) 30 minutes
Winchcombe
Pop 4540
Winchcombe is very much a working, living town, with butchers, bakers and small independent shops lining the main streets. It was capital of the Saxon kingdom of Mercia and one of the most important towns in the Cotswolds until the Middle Ages. Today, the remnants of its illustrious past can still be seen in its stone and half-timbered buildings. Keep an eye out for the picturesque cottages on Vineyard St and Dents Tce, and the grotesque gargoyles that adorn St Peter's Church.
Winchcombe is ideally situated for walkers, with a spider's web of long-distance trails branching out in every direction including the Cotswold Way, the Gloucestershire Way and the Worcestershire-bound St Kenelm's Way.
1Sights & Activities
Sudeley CastleCASTLE
(www.sudeleycastle.co.uk; adult/child £14/5; h10am-5pm mid-Mar–Oct)
Winchcombe's main attraction, this magnificent castle has welcomed many a monarch over its thousand year history, including Richard III, Henry VIII and Charles I. It is most famous as the home of Catherine Parr (Henry VIII's widow) and her second husband, Thomas Seymour. Princess Elizabeth (before she became Elizabeth I) was part of the household for a time until Seymour's inappropriate displays of affection towards her prompted Catherine to banish her from the premises.
Lady Jane Grey – the ill-fated 'Nine Days Queen' – was also sent here to live with the Seymours, and she was the chief mourner at Catherine's funeral. You'll find Catherine's tomb in the chapel, making this the only private house in England where a queen is buried.
The house is still used as a family home and some of the interior is off-limits to visitors, but you can get a good sense of its grand proportions while visiting the exhibitions of costumes, memorabilia and paintings, and the surrounding grounds. The gardens include spectacular avenues of sculpted yews, an intricate knot garden and aviaries containing magnificently coloured pheasants.
Enquire at the visitor centre about the 5-mile loop walk from here that leads to a well-preserved Roman mosaic floor hidden within the surrounding woods. Allow 2½ hours for the walk.
Belas Knap Long BarrowARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Dating from more than 5500 years ago, Belas Knap is one of the best-preserved neolithic burial chambers in the country, and the views down to Sudeley Castle and across the surrounding countryside are breathtaking. The remains of 38 people were found when its four chambers were excavated. The barrow can be accessed from Winchcombe by a 2½-mile hike along the Cotswold Way. Otherwise you can park on Corndean Lane and take a steep but shortish walk up across the fields.
Hailes AbbeyRUIN
(EH; www.english-heritage.org.uk; Hailes; adult/child £4.50/2.70; h10am-5pm Apr-Nov)
Two miles northeast of Winchcombe are the meagre ruins of this Cistercian abbey, once one of the country's main pilgrimage centres, due to a long-running medieval scam. The abbey was said to possess a vial of Christ's blood, which turned out to be merely coloured water. Before the deception came to light, thousands of pilgrims contributed to the abbey's wealth.
4Sleeping & Eating
Wesley HouseB&B
(%01242-602366; www.wesleyhouse.co.uk; High St; s/d from £65/90, mains £17-20; hrestaurant noon-2pm Tue-Sun, 7-9pm Tue-Sat; W)
Methodist founder John Wesley once stayed in this wonderful 15th-century half-timbered house. The rooms are pleasantly indulgent, especially 'Almsbury', which has its own balcony overlooking the countryside. Downstairs is split between a relaxed bar and grill, and a more formal restaurant serving fabulous Modern British cuisine.
White Hart InnHOTEL
(%01242-602359; www.whitehartwinchcombe.co.uk; High St; s/d from £60/70, without bathroom £40/50; W)
Appealingly old-fashioned, this central inn caters well to walkers. Choose one of the three cheaper 'rambler' rooms, with shared bathrooms and iron bedsteads, or go for greater luxury in a superior room.
o5 North StMODERN EUROPEAN
(%01242-604566; www.5northstreetrestaurant.co.uk; 5 North St; 2-/3-course lunch £24/28, 3–7-course dinner £44-70; h7-9.30pm Tue-Sat)
This Michelin-starred restaurant is a treat from start to finish, from its splendid 400-year-old timbered exterior to what you eventually find on your plate. Marcus Ashenford's cooking is rooted in traditional ingredients, but the odd playful experiment (such as Guinness ice cream) adds that extra magic.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%01242-602925; www.winchcombe.co.uk; High St; h10am-4pm daily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)
8Getting There & Away
Castleways (www.castleways.co.uk) bus 606 travels to/from Broadway (30 minutes) and Cheltenham (20 minutes); no Sunday services.
Painswick
Pop 1770
One of the most beautiful and unspoilt towns in the Cotswolds, hilltop Painswick sees only a trickle of visitors, so you can wander the narrow winding streets and admire the picture-perfect cottages, handsome stone town houses and medieval inns in your own good time. Look out for Bisley St, the original main drag, which was superseded by the now ancient-looking New St in medieval times.
1Sights & Activities
St Mary's ChurchCHURCH
(www.stmaryspainswick.org.uk; New St; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar)
The village centres on this fine 14th-century, Perpendicular Gothic wool church, surrounded by tabletop tombs and clipped yew trees that resemble giant lollipops. Legend had it that only 99 trees could ever grow here, as the devil would appear and shrivel the 100th tree were it ever planted. They planted it anyway, to celebrate the millennium and – lo and behold! – one of the trees toppled several years later. We're assured it's now making a good recovery.
Just behind the churchyard, a rare set of iron stocks stand in the street.
Painswick Rococo GardenGARDENS
(www.rococogarden.org.uk; adult/child £6.50/3; h11am-5pm mid-Jan–Oct)
A mile north of town, this is the only garden of its type in England, designed by Benjamin Hyett in the 1740s and now restored to its former glory. Winding paths soften the otherwise strict geometrical precision, bringing visitors around the central vegetable garden to the many Gothic follies dotted in the grounds. There's also a children's nature trail and maze.
CHEESE-ROLLING AT COOPER'S HILL
Cheese-RollingCULTURAL
(www.cheese-rolling.co.uk; hlast bank holiday in May)
Cooper's Hill in Cranham, near Painswick, is the location of the Cotswolds' most dangerous sport: the annual Cheese-Rolling. This 200-year-old tradition sees locals running, tumbling and sliding down a steep hill in pursuit of a 7lb round of Double Gloucester cheese; it's only a 90m run, but people get hurt every year. The prize? The cheese itself, and the glory of catching it.
4Sleeping & Eating
Troy HouseB&B
(%01452-812339; www.troy-house.co.uk; Gloucester St; s/d £50/75; W)
At this great little B&B the two spacious guest rooms occupy their own separate rear cottage accessed from a pretty courtyard. They're nicely decked out with quality toiletries, magazines and Tintin books.
Cardynham HouseHOTEL
(%01452-814006; www.cardynham.co.uk; Tibbiwell St; s/d from £70/90, lunch £12-14, dinner £14-17; hbistro noon-3pm Tue-Sun, 6.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat; Ws)
Each of the differently themed rooms at 15th-century Cardynham House has four-poster beds and heavy patterned fabrics. For a private pool and garden, book the Pool Room. Downstairs, the bistro (mains from £10 to £20) serves hearty British fare.
Cotswolds88HOTEL
(%01452-813688; www.cotswolds88.com; Kemps Lane; r/ste from £110/250, 2-/3-course lunch £15/20, dinner £43/50; hrestaurant noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Wed-Sun; pW)
This is a happy marriage of 18th-century architecture and over-the-top decor – from the wallpaper to the psychedelic lighting. Spacious, individually decorated rooms come with every creature comfort, and the suites have four-poster beds and spa baths. The restaurant is also excellent, featuring sophisticated yet playful fare.
8Getting There & Away
Stagecoach (www.stagecoachbus.com) bus 46 heads to/from Cheltenham (£3.40, 42 minutes) and Stroud (£2, 10 minutes).
Stroud
Pop 32,700
Stroud once hummed with the sound of more than 150 cloth mills operating around the town, but when the bottom fell out of the market, the town went into decline. Although a handful of the handsome old mills are still operating, the hilly town has become a bohemian enclave known for its fair-trade shops, delis and independent stores.
This is still one of the most important market towns in the Cotswolds, with dozens of stallholders converging every Saturday for the farmers market. Another great place for organic food, books, craft and more is the Shambles Market (www.shamblesmarketstroud.co.uk), which takes place in the historic Shambles on Fridays and Saturdays.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
COTSWOLDS FOOD & FARMERS MARKETS
When the locally sourced, seasonal food movement took off, the Cotswolds were already there. Organic, ethically produced produce has long been a staple in its villages. In the delis and independent food shops all over the region, visiting foodies will make tempting discoveries. Edible goodies to look out for include cheese from Simon Weaver Organic (www.simonweaver.net), from a farm near Upper Slaughter; organic beef from LoveMyCow (www.lovemycow.com) in Bourton-on-the-Water; smoked fish and meats from Upton Smokery (www.uptonsmokery.co.uk) in Burford; and fantastic ice cream from Chedworth's Cotswold Ice Cream Company (www.cotswold-icecream.co.uk).
Farmers markets take place monthly or fortnightly in many of the villages and towns, with a multitude of local producers selling their seasonal delights to the general public. The best is held every Saturday morning in Stroud.
1Sights
Museum in the ParkMUSEUM
(www.museuminthepark.org.uk; Stratford Pk; h11am-4pm Tue-Sun; c)F
Set in an 18th-century mansion surrounded by parkland, this museum tells the history of the town and its cloth-making, and there are interactive displays of everything from dinosaurs to Victorian toys. A separate gallery hosts eclectic contemporary art exhibitions.
5Eating
Star AniseCAFE
(www.staraniseartscafe.com; Gloucester St; mains £6-8; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat; v)
Local produce features heavily in the inventive dishes at this mostly vegetarian cafe (there are some fish dishes). It often hosts live music and other community events.
No 23TAPAS
(%01453-298525; www.facebook.com/no23barandbistrostroud; 23 Nelson St; tapas £5-10; h10am-10pm; Wv)
Tuck into proper Spanish tapas, wine, sherry and brandy at this chilled-out little place. Head upstairs to the balcony for great views of the countryside.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%01453-760960; www.visitthecotswolds.org.uk; George St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
8Getting There & Away
Buses head to/from Cirencester (route 54; £3.50, 36 minutes), Uley (21/35; £4, 30 minutes), Painswick (46; £2, nine minutes), Cheltenham (46; £3.60, 46 minutes) and Gloucester (14/93; £3.70, 1¼ hours).
National Express coaches head to/from London Victoria (£25, 2¾ hours), Bristol (£8, 45 minutes), Birmingham (£15, 2½ hours), Hereford (£8, 1½ hours) and Scarborough (£56, 10 hours).
Trains head to/from London Paddington (£22, 1½ hours), Gloucester (£4.50, 20 minutes) and Cheltenham (£5.90, 40 minutes).
Tetbury
Pop 5480
Once a prosperous wool-trading centre, Tetbury's busy streets are lined with medieval cottages, sturdy old town houses and Georgian gems. The Georgian Gothic Church of Sts Mary the Virgin & Mary Magadelene has a towering spire and wonderful interior, including its original box pews. From here, it's a short stroll to Market Sq, where the 17th-century Market House stands as if on stilts.
Tetbury is also a great place for antiques fans, with a shop of old curios on almost every corner. A good time to visit is the last Monday in May for the Woolsack Races (www.tetburywoolsack.co.uk) – a nod to the town's past – or in August for the Festival of British Eventing (www.gatcombe-horse.co.uk) at Princess Anne's Gatcombe Park estate. Her big brother, Charles, also lives near here, at Highgrove.
Buses head to/from Stroud (route 29/129; £3.50, 36 minutes) and Cirencester (881; £3.50, 37 minutes); no Sunday services.
Uley
Pop 1000
This lovely little hamlet, with its quaint village green and jumble of pretty houses, sits below the overgrown remains of Uley Bury, the largest Iron Age hill fort in England. Dating from about 300 BC, the fort and its perimeter walk provide spectacular views over the Severn Vale; follow the steep path that runs from the village church. If you're driving, access to the car park is off the B4066, north of the village.
Virtually untouched since the mid-1870s, Woodchester Mansion (www.woodchestermansion.org.uk; adult/child £6.50/free; h11am-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct) was abandoned before it was finished, yet it's still amazingly grand and graceful. Doors open to nowhere, fireplaces are stuck halfway up walls, and corridors end at ledges with views of the ground below. The house also features an impressive set of gruesome gargoyles and is home to one of England's most important colonies of horseshoe bats and several resident ghosts. It's a mile north of Uley on the B4066.
Buses 21 and 35 head to/from Stroud (£4, 30 minutes) on weekdays.
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