St Ives
Pop 9870
Even if you've seen St Ives many times before, it's still hard not to be dazzled as you gaze across its improbably pretty jumble of slate roofs, church towers and turquoise bays. Once a busy pilchard harbour, St Ives later became the centre of Cornwall's arts scene in the 1920s and '30s, and the town is still an artistic centre, with numerous galleries and craft shops lining its winding cobbled streets, as well as the southwestern outpost of the renowned Tate Museum.
St Ives
1Top Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Eating
3Entertainment
1Sights & Activities
The largest town beaches are Porthmeor ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Porthminster ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), both of which have sand and space aplenty. Between them juts the grassy promontory known as the Island, topped by the tiny pre-14th-century Chapel of St Nicholas ( GOOGLE MAP ). On the peninsula's east side is the little cove of Porthgwidden ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), often a good place to escape the crowds.
oTate St IvesGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%01736-796226; www.tate.org.uk/stives; Porthmeor Beach; adult/child £7/4.50, with Barbara Hepworth Museum £10/6; 
h10am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)
Hovering like a concrete curl above Porthmeor Beach, St Ives' celebrated art museum focuses on the key artists of the 'St Ives School', including luminary names such as Terry Frost, Patrick Heron, Naum Gabo, Ben Nicholson and Barbara Hepworth, displayed alongside more contemporary artists. Of particular local interest are the naive works of fisherman-turned-artist Alfred Wallis, who didn't start painting until the ripe old age of 67.
The top-floor cafe has super views over Porthmeor Beach.
Barbara Hepworth MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-796226; Barnoon Hill; adult/child £6/4, with Tate St Ives £10/6; h10am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)
Barbara Hepworth (1903–75) was one of the leading abstract sculptors of the 20th century and a key figure in the St Ives art scene. Her studio on Barnoon Hill has remained almost untouched since her death and the adjoining garden contains several of her most notable sculptures. Hepworth's work is scattered throughout St Ives; look for works outside the Guildhall and inside the 15th-century parish church of St Ia.
St Ives BoatsBOATING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0777 300 8000; www.stivesboats.co.uk; adult/child £10/8)
From the harbourfront, several operators including St Ives Boats offer fishing trips and scenic cruises, including to the grey seal colony on Seal Island. If you're really lucky, you might even spot a porpoise or a basking shark in summer.
4Sleeping
No 1 St IvesB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-799047; www.no1stives.co.uk; 1 Fern Glen; d £95-139; 
p
W)
Despite its pretentious 'bouchique' tag, this 19th-century granite cottage is still one of the nicest B&Bs in St Ives. Rooms vary in size, but all sport the same palette of cool greys and off-whites, and have extra spoils such as filtered water, goose-down duvets, iPod docks and White Company bath-stuffs. It's five minutes' walk from town, but there's only space for four cars.
Little Leaf Guest HouseB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-795427; www.littleleafguesthouse.co.uk; Park Ave; r £65-120; W)
A friendly and cosy five-roomer, on a terrace overlooking the town's rooftops. Rooms are sweet and simple, finished in creamy colours and pine furniture. Ask for rooms 2 or 5 if you're after a sea view.
Gekko LodgeB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-796591; www.gekkolodge.co.uk; 7 Carthew Tce; d £70-90)
A bit of a find, this one: a pebble-dash Victorian house with just two rooms, both of which are enormous and have sea views through bay windows. The style is contemporary, with futon-style beds and funky circular sinks.
TreliskaB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-797678; www.treliska.com; 3 Bedford Rd; d £60-80; W)
This B&B is a bargain in pricey St Ives, especially given the location, just steps from the town centre. The trade-off is the room size: most are on the small side (ask for No 5 if it's space you're after).
oTide HouseHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-791803; www.thetidehouse.co.uk; Skidden Hill; d £140-240)
Even in increasingly chi-chi St Ives, this beautiful hotel feels unusually special. It has everything going for it: 16th-century building, harbourside location, gorgeous design and seriously luxurious rooms (all named after Cornish lighthouses), ranging from a romantic penthouse to a split-level mezzanine. Definitely the place to push the boat out.
Trevose Harbour HouseB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-793267; www.trevosehouse.co.uk; 22 The Warren; d £140-195; W)
A stylish six-room town house on the winding Warren, restored with a sea-themed combo of fresh whites and stripy blues. It's been beautifully finished – Neal's Yard bathstuffs, iPod docks and retro design pieces in the rooms, plus a book-lined lounge and minimalist courtyard patio – but the rooms are quite small given the price.
BoskerrisHOTEL
(%01736-795295; www.boskerrishotel.co.uk; Boskerris Rd, Carbis Bay; d £130-265; pW)
In nearby Carbis Bay, this upmarket mini-hotel feels elegantly uncluttered, contrasting cool monotones with snazzy design features: pattern-print bedsteads, scatter cushions, minimalist ceramic sinks. The decked patio is an absolute beauty, with grandstand views over the bay.
5Eating
Blas BurgerworksCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-797-272; The Warren; burgers £5-10; hnoon-9.30pm)
S
A fantastic boutique burger joint, with an eco-friendly manifesto and an imaginative menu. Go for a 6oz Classic Blasburger, or branch out with a guacamole and corn salsa–topped Rancheros, or a Smokey with beetroot, aged cheddar and homemade piccalilli (plenty of veggie options, too). The owners also run the excellent Halsetown Inn (%01736-795583; www.halsetowninn.co.uk), just outside St Ives.
Pengenna PastiesBAKERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.pengennapasties.co.uk; 9 High St; pasties £3-4; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Generously-stuffed pasties, with a controversial top crimp and flakier texture.
oPorthminster Beach CaféBISTRO
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-795352; www.porthminstercafe.co.uk; Porthminster Beach; mains £10.50-16.50, dinner £10-22; h9am-10pm)
This is no ordinary beach cafe: it's a full-blown bistro with a gorgeous suntrap terrace and a superb Mediterranean-influenced menu, specialising in seafood. Tuck into rich bouillabaisse, seafood curry or Provençal fish soup, and settle back to enjoy the breezy beach vistas.
Rum & Crab ShackSEAFOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-796353; Wharf Rd; mains £9.95-12.95; h9am-9pm; 
c)
If the thought of cracking your own spider crab and eating it from the shell appeals, then this place will be happy to oblige (aprons and tools are provided). Alternatively, you could just tackle the claws, or tuck into a plate of seafood gumbo or scrowlers on toast (aka sardines). Great fun, and great food to match.
AlbaMODERN BRITISH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-797222; www.thealbarestaurant.com; Old Lifeboat House; 2-/3-course dinner menu £16.95/19.95; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm)
In a converted boathouse near the lifeboat station, this long-standing restaurant has been consistently turning out some of the town's top food for many years. With its banquette seats and sharp decor, it feels classy, especially if you get one of the prime tables next to the panoramic window. The menu is a mix of British and European flavours.
AlfrescoBISTRO
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-793737; info@alfrescocafebar.co.uk; The Wharf; 2-/3-course dinner menu £16.95; hdinner 7-9pm daily, lunch noon-3pm Thu & Fri)
Sliding doors onto the quayside allow this tiny restaurant to make the most of its harbourside position, and when the sun's shining it feels positively continental. The Alfresco fish stew is particularly recommended.
SeagrassMODERN BRITISH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-793763; www.seagrass-stives.com; Fish St; 2-/3-course menu £16.95/19.95; h6-9pm)
A popular, small bistro just off the wharf, focusing mainly on local seafood – there's a special Oyster and Shells menu, featuring langoustines, whole crab, lobster and oysters.
6Drinking & Entertainment
HubCAFE, BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.hub-stives.co.uk; The Wharf; h9am-11pm)
The open-plan Hub is the heart of St Ives' (limited) nightlife: coffee and burgers by day, cocktails after-dark.
Sloop InnINN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-796584; www.sloop-inn.co.uk; The Wharf; h11am-11pm)
This beam-ceilinged boozer is as comfy as an old pair of slippers, with a few tables on the harbour and lots of local ales.
GuildhallCONCERT VENUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Street-an-Pol)
St Ives' concert hall hosts music and theatre, especially during the annual St Ives September Festival (www.stivesseptemberfestival.co.uk).
8Information
St Ives Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-796297; www.stivestic.co.uk; Street-an-Pol; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
Inside the Guildhall.
8Getting There & Away
The branch train line from St Ives is worth taking just for the coastal views: trains terminate at St Erth (£3, 14 minutes, half-hourly), where you can catch connections along the Penzance–London Paddington main line.
ABus 17/17A (£4, 30 minutes, half-hourly Monday to Saturday, hourly on Sunday) The quickest route to Penzance.
ABus 16/16A (£5, hourly Monday to Saturday) Round the coast road to Penzance; only the 16A travels via Zennor.
Zennor & St Just
The twisting B3306 from St Ives is a rollercoaster of a road, winding through a stark landscape of ancient drystone walls, barren moorland, tiny villages and rocky bluffs. The landscape here feels wild and ancient, a world away from some of Cornwall's more gentrified corners.
1Sights
Church of St SenaraCHURCH
(Zennor)
This little church in the hamlet of Zennor dates from at least 1150. Inside, a famous carved chair depicts the legendary Mermaid of Zennor, who is said to have fallen in love with the singing voice of local lad Matthew Trewhella. Locals say you can still sometimes hear them singing down at nearby Pendour Cove – and even if you don’t, the views along the coast path are reward enough.
oGeevor Tin MineMINE
(%01736-788662; www.geevor.com; adult/child £11/6.50; h9am-5pm Sun-Fri Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)
Just north of St Just near Pendeen, this historic mine closed in 1990 and now provides a powerful insight into the dark, dingy and dangerous conditions in which Cornwall's miners worked. Above ground, you can view the dressing floors and the original machinery used to sort the minerals and ores, before taking a guided tour into some of the underground shafts. Claustrophobes need not apply.
Botallack MineRUIN, MINE
Clinging to the cliffs near Levant, this dramatic engine house has abandoned mine shafts extending right out beneath the raging Atlantic waves. It's a treacherous climb down, so it's best viewed from a distance from nearby Botallack Head.
Levant Mine & Beam EngineHISTORIC SITE
(www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-levantmineandbeamengine; adult/child £6.60/3.30; h11am-5pm Sun-Fri)
At this clifftop site, one of the world's only working beam engines is still in thunderous action. Built in 1840, these great engines were the powerhouses behind the Cornish mining boom, powering mineral trains and pumping water from the shafts. Lovingly restored by a team of enthusiasts, it's a sight to behold when it's in full steam.
Cape CornwallLANDMARK
Jutting out from the cliffs near St Just is Cornwall's only 'official' cape, a craggy finger of land topped by an abandoned minestack. Below the cape is the rocky beach of Priest's Cove, while nearby are the ruins of St Helen's Oratory, supposedly one of the first Christian chapels built in West Cornwall.
4Sleeping & Eating
Tinner's ArmsINN
(%01736-792697; www.tinnersarms.com; Zennor; s/d £60/100, mains £10-16; p)
An old Cornish inn, complete with slate roof, roaring fireplaces, gleaming bar taps and a refreshing lack of commercial clutter (no TV, no jukebox, no mobile signal). Next door, the 'White House' provides fresh, spotless rooms. DH Lawrence drank here while he was writing Women in Love.
oGurnard's HeadBRITISH
(%01736-796928; www.gurnardshead.co.uk; mains £10-18.50, r £105-170; pW
#)
On the road between Zennor and St Just, you can't miss the Gurnard's – it's name is written on the roof. Run by the Inkin brothers (who also own Mousehole's Old Coastguard Hotel) this is a perfect country pub, with old-fashioned rooms, book-lined shelves and sepia prints conjuring a cosy, lived-in feel. It's renowned for its delicious, classic British food.
8Getting There & Away
St Just is 6 miles north of Land's End.
ABus 16A (£4, three or four daily Monday to Saturday) Travels from St Ives via Zennor to Penzance.
ABus 10/10A (£5, hourly Monday to Saturday, six on Sunday) Circular route from Penzance via Madron, St Just and Botallack.
DON'T MISS
MINACK THEATRE & PORTHCURNO
In terms of theatrical settings, the Minack (%01736-810181; www.minack.com) takes top billing. Carved into the crags overlooking Porthcurno Bay and the azure-blue Atlantic, this amazing clifftop amphitheatre was the lifelong passion of local lady Rowena Cade, who dreamt up the idea in the 1930s and oversaw the theatre until her death in 1983. It's now a hugely popular place for alfresco theatre, with a 17-week season running from mid-May to mid-September. Experienced theatre-goers bring wine, picnic supplies, wet-weather gear and – most importantly, considering the seats are carved out of granite – a comfy cushion. Above the theatre, the visitor centre (adult/child £3.50/1.40; h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar) recounts the theatre's history. It's closed when there's a matinée.
Below the theatre, the sandy wedge of Porthcurno is great for swimming and sunbathing, and the lesser-known beach of Pednvounder nearby is good if you like to sunbathe au naturel – it's one of Cornwall's few naturist beaches. Inland, the newly redeveloped Porthcurno Telegraph Museum (%01736-810966; www.porthcurno.org.uk; adult/child £8.50/5; h10am-5pm) recounts the area's role as Britain's first hub for transatlantic telecommunications.
The Minack is 3 miles from Land's End and 9 miles from Penzance. Bus 1/1A from Penzance stops several times daily.
Sennen & Land's End
Beyond St Ives, the coastline gets ever wilder and emptier as you near Cornwall's tip at Land's End, the westernmost point of mainland England, where the coal-black cliffs plunge into the pounding surf, and the views stretch all the way to the Isles of Scilly on a clear day.
Unfortunately, the decision to build the Legendary Land's End (www.landsend-landmark.co.uk; adult/child £10/7; h10am-5pm Mar-Oct; c) theme park on the headland in the 1980s hasn't done much to enhance the view. Take our advice: just pay for the car park, skip the tacky multimedia shows and opt for an exhilarating clifftop stroll instead. Look out for the slender profile of the historic Longships Lighthouse, perched on a rocky reef 1.25 miles out to sea.
From Land's End, you can follow the coast path west to the secluded cove of Nanjizal Bay, or east to the old harbour of Sennen, which overlooks the glorious – and appropriately named – beach of Whitesand Bay (actually pronounced Whitsand), the area's most impressive stretch of sand.
Land's End is 9 miles from Penzance. Bus 1/1A travels from Penzance (£5, one hour, six daily Monday to Saturday) to Land's End; 1 goes via Sennen, while the 1A travels via Treen and Porthcurno.
Mousehole
Pop 697
With a tight tangle of cottages and alleyways gathered behind the granite breakwater, Mousehole (pronounced 'mowzle') looks like something from a children's storybook (a fact not unnoticed by the author Antonia Barber, who set her much-loved fairy-tale The Mousehole Cat here). In centuries past this was Cornwall's busiest pilchard port, but the fish dried up at the turn of the century, and the village now survives mostly on tourist traffic.
Packed in summer and deserted in winter, it's ripe for a wander, with a maze of slips, net-lofts and courtyards. It's also well-known for its Christmas lights, and as the home of 'stargazey pie', a pilchard pie in which the fish heads are left poking through the pie's crust. It's traditionally eaten on Tom Bawcock's Eve (23 December), named after a local lad who reputedly rescued the town from a famine by braving stormy seas to land a bumper haul of pilchards.
The Old Coastguard Hotel (%01736-731222; www.oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk; d £120-245, mains £11-15; pW#) is the pick of the places to stay, a swanky seaside hotel with to-die-for sea views on the edge of Mousehole.
Bus 6 makes the 20-minute journey (£3) to Penzance half-hourly.
Penzance
Pop 21,168
Overlooking the sweep of Mount's Bay, the old harbour of Penzance has a salty, sea-blown charm that feels altogether more authentic than many of Cornwall's polished-up ports. Its streets and shopping arcades still feel real and a touch ramshackle, and there's nowhere better for a windy-day walk than the town's seafront Victorian promenade. The nearby harbour of Newlyn is still home to Cornwall's largest fishing fleet.
Penzance
2Activities, Courses & Tours
3Entertainment
1Sights & Activities
Penlee House Gallery & MuseumGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.penleehouse.org.uk; Morrab Rd; adult/child £4.50/3; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Easter-Sep, 10.30am-4.30pm Oct-Easter)
Penzance's historic art gallery displays paintings by artists of the Newlyn School (including Stanhope Forbes) and hosts regular exhibitions. Admission is free on Saturday.
ExchangeGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.theexchangegallery.co.uk; Princes St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Easter-Sep, Wed-Sat Oct-Easter)
F
Housed in Penzance's former telecoms building, this gallery hosts regular exhibitions of contemporary art. It's the sister gallery to the Newlyn Art Gallery (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.newlynartgallery.co.uk; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Easter-Sep, Wed-Sat Oct-Easter), a mile west along Penzance's prom.
TrengwaintonGARDENS
(NT; %01736-363148; trengwainton@nationaltrust.org.uk; Madron; adult/child £6.80/3.40; h10am-5pm Sun-Thu mid-Feb–Nov)
Two miles north of Penzance near Madron is the walled garden of Trengwainton, which has a subtropical collection of ferns, shrubs, magnolias and rhododendrons.
Jubilee PoolSWIMMING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jubileepool.co.uk)
At the eastern end of town is Penzance's 1930s seawater lido. It's usually open in summer, but at the time of writing it was closed due to storm damage – check the website for news.
DON'T MISS
ST MICHAEL'S MOUNT
oSt Michael's MountLANDMARK
(NT; %01736-710507; www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk; adult/child £8.75/4.25; hhouse 10.30am-5.30pm Sun-Fri late Mar-Oct, gardens Mon-Fri Apr-Jun, Thu & Fri Jul-Sep)
Looming from the waters of Mount's Bay and connected to the mainland via a cobbled causeway, this abbey-crowned island is an unforgettable sight. There's been a monastery here since at least the 5th century, but the present abbey was mostly built by Benedictine monks during the 12th century. Highlights include the rococo drawing room, the armoury, the 14th-century church and the amazing clifftop gardens. Though owned by the St Aubyn family, the abbey is run by the National Trust.
Recent excavations including a Bronze Age axe head, dagger and metal clasp have proved the island has been inhabited since ancient times.
You can catch the ferry (adult/child £2/1) from nearby Marazion at high tide, but it's worth timing your arrival for low tide so you can walk across the causeway, just as the monks and pilgrims did centuries ago.
The 13/13A bus shuttles between Marazion and Penzance (£2) three times a day.
4Sleeping
Penzance has lots of low-price B&Bs, especially along Alexandra Rd and Morrab Rd.
Penzance YHAHOSTEL
(%0845 371 9653; penzance@yha.org.uk; Castle Horneck, Alverton; dm £15-20; p
i)
Penzance's YHA is inside an 18th-century house on the edge of town. It's a rambling place, with a cafe, laundry and four- to 10-bed dorms. It's a 15-minute walk from the front; buses 5 and 6 stop nearby.
oVenton VeanB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-351294; www.ventonvean.co.uk; Trewithen Rd; r £80-95; W)
The picture of a modern B&B, finished in greys, blues and pistachios, with stripped wood floors and a keen eye for design. Rooms 1 and 2 are the most spacious; the former overlooks Penlee Memorial Park. The sumptuous breakfast choice includes smoked pollack and Spanish tortillas.
Artist Residence PenzanceB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-365664; www.arthotelcornwall.co.uk; Chapel St; d £105-145; W)
This quirky B&B on Chapel St is like sleeping inside an art gallery. All the rooms have their own design courtesy of a local artist: street-art murals by Jo Peel, seascapes by Pinky Vision, butterfly wallpapers by Dolly Divine. They're furnished with retro furniture and most peep across Penzance's rooftops. Great fun.
Hotel PenzanceHOTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-363117; www.hotelpenzance.com; Briton's Hill; d £140-205; W)
Perched on a hill with views across Mount's Bay, this town-house hotel makes a pleasant Penzance base. Bedrooms are staid in style, with cream-and-magnolia colours, varnished desks and vintage lamps: the best have bay windows looking out to sea. The hotel's restaurant, the Bay, serves quality food.
5Eating
Archie Brown'sCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-362828; Bread St; mains £4-10; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
A wholefood cafe and health shop, serving quiches, homity pies and salads to Penzance's arty crowd.
oTolcarne InnPUB
(%01736-363074; www.tolcarneinn.co.uk; Tolcarne Pl, Newlyn; mains £12-18; hnoon-2.15pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.15pm Sun)
This old Newlyn inn is run by talented local chef Ben Tunnicliffe, who's fast turned it into the area's primo gastropub. The ethos is refreshingly honest – top-quality fish, seafood and locally sourced meat, served with minimal fuss. Bookings advisable, especially for Sunday lunch.
Ben's Cornish KitchenBRITISH
(%01736-719200; www.benscornishkitchen.com; Marazion; mains £14-23; hnoon-2pm, & 7-8.30pm Tue-Sat; 
v)
You could easily miss Ben Prior's restaurant as you zip along Marazion's main street, but you'd be sorry. Diners travel from far and wide to taste his classical cooking, which focuses on meaty Cornish flavours with a French influence. It's so popular he's recently expanded upstairs.
BakehouseMEDITERRANEAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %01736-331331; www.bakehouserestaurant.co.uk; Chapel St; mains £8.95-19.50; h6.15-10pm Mon-Sat)
Down an alley off Chapel St, this no-nonsense bistro serves unpretentious food such as fish served with Med-style marinades, and steaks with spicy rubs.
6Drinking & Entertainment
Turk's HeadPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Chapel St; h11am-11pm)
This salty old boozer could have tumbled from the pages of Treasure Island. The bar's covered in maritime memorabilia, and it's said a secret smugglers' tunnel links the pub to the harbour.
Zero LoungeBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Chapel St; h11am-11pm)
More urban chic than olde worlde, this open-plan bar also has the town's best beer garden.
Acorn Arts CentreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.acornartscentre.co.uk; Parade St)
Small theatre hosting film, theatre, comedy and gigs.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Local destinations include:
AHelston and Falmouth Bus 2/2A (£5, hourly Monday to Saturday, six on Sunday) via Marazion.
ASt Ives Buses 17/17A/17B (£4, 30 minutes, half-hourly Monday to Saturday, hourly on Sunday).
Train
Penzance is the last stop on the line from London Paddington.
AExeter (£19.80, three hours)
ALondon Paddington (£60.50, 5½ hours)
ATruro (£6.40, 30 minutes)
The Lizard
Once notorious as a smugglers' haven and an ill-famed graveyard for ships, the rugged Lizard Peninsula offers Cornwall's wildest coastal panoramas. Wind-lashed in winter, in summer its heaths and cliffs blaze with wildflowers, and its numerous beaches and coves are perfect for a bracing swim.
The main town is Helston, which is famous for its annual street party, Flora Day, held on 8 May. Pretty villages are dotted all round the peninsula's coastline: the old harbour of Coverack, the beaches of Mullion and the idyllic thatched-cottage cove of Cadgwith are all well worth a visit.
Along the peninsula's northern edge runs the Helford River, lined by creeks and inlets which famously inspired Daphne du Maurier's smuggling yarn, Frenchman's Creek. Several local companies offer kayaking tours.
1Sights & Activities
Lizard Lighthouse Heritage CentreMUSEUM
(%01326-290202; www.lizardlighthouse.co.uk; adult/child £2.75/1.75; h11am-5pm Sun-Thu Mar-Oct)
Housed in a 1751 lighthouse above Lizard Point, this museum contains exhibits on seafaring and shipwrecks, and you can take guided tours (adult/child £7/4) into the tower to see the lamp room and foghorn.
oKynance CoveBEACH
A mile north of Lizard Point, this National Trust–owned inlet is a showstopper, studded with offshore islands rising out of searingly blue seas. The cliffs around the cove are rich in serpentine, a red-green rock popular with Victorian trinket-makers. Drinks and snacks are available at the eco-friendly cafe (www.kynancecovecafe.co.uk; mains £8-14).
National Seal SanctuaryWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%0871-423 2110; www.sealsanctuary.co.uk; adult/child £14.40/12; h10am-5pm May-Sep, 9am-4pm Oct-Apr)
Towards the northwest of the Lizard Peninsula, this sanctuary cares for sick and orphaned seals washed up along the Cornish coastline before returning them to the wild.
Koru KayakingKAYAKING
(%07794-321827; www.korukayaking.co.uk; 2hr trip £35)
Kayaking trips to Frenchman's Creek from the north bank of the Helford River, as well as from Trevaunance Cove near St Agnes.
Aberfal Outdoor PursuitsKAYAKING
(%07968-770756; www.aberfaloutdoorpursuits.co.uk; half/full day £35/50)
Half- and full-day guided kayaking trips along the Helford on sit-on-top kayaks.
4Sleeping & Eating
Lizard YHAHOSTEL
(%0845 371 9550; www.yha.org.uk; dm £17-22; hApr-Oct)
The old lighthouse-keeper's cottage at the heritage centre has now been turned into the UK's most southerly hostel, the Lizard Point YHA.
Ann's PastiesBRITISH
(%01326-290889; www.annspasties.co.uk; pasties £2.85; h9am-3pm Mon-Sat)
Approved by Rick Stein, no less, Ann Muller serves huge, traditional pasties from her tiny shop near Lizard Point.
Roskilly'sICE CREAM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; The Harbour; ice-cream £2-3; h9am-5pm)
Harbourside outlet for the Lizard's renowned ice-cream maker.
oKotaRESTAURANT
(%01326-562407; www.kotarestaurant.co.uk; 2-course menu £17.50, mains £12-20; h12.30-2.30pm & 6-9pm)
New Zealander Jude Kereama takes his culinary inspiration from his globetrotting travels, and his menu is spiced with exotic flavours, from Szechuan to Thai and Malaysian. His main restaurant is in a converted mill in Porthleven, 3 miles south of Helston. He also has a new cafe-bistro, Kota Kai (%01326-574411; www.kotakai.co.uk; mains £11.50-14.95; hnoon-2pm & 5.30-9.30pm; W), along the quay.
Halzephron InnPUB
(%01326-240406; www.halzephron-inn.co.uk; mains £9.95-21.95; h11am-11pm)
On the cliffs above the cove of Gunwalloe, 5 miles south of Helston, this is a proper Cornish local, whitewashed and slate-topped, with brassy trinkets above the bar, beams on the ceiling and a menu of beer-battered fish and surf-and-turf steak.
8Getting There & Away
Services include:
ABus 2 Penzance to Falmouth, with stops at Porthleven and Helston (£5, hourly Monday to Saturday, six on Sunday).
ABus 36 Helston to Gunwalloe, Gweek, Coverack and St Keverne (£3, three or four daily Monday to Saturday).
ABus 37 Helston to Mullion (£3) and the Lizard (£5, every two hours Monday to Saturday, four on Sunday).
ABus 82 (£5, one hour, hourly, five on Sunday) Helston to Truro.
Falmouth & Around
Pop 20,775
The world's third-deepest natural harbour, Falmouth made its fortune during the 18th and 19th centuries, when clippers, trading vessels and mail packets stopped off here to unload their cargoes. The town is still an important centre for ship repairs, although these days it's also a lively student town thanks to the ever-expanding campus of University College Falmouth in nearby Penryn.
It's an ideal base for exploring Cornwall's south coast, with a wealth of bars and bistros, a trio of beaches and the nation's foremost maritime museum on its doorstep.
1Sights
Falmouth has three beaches. Nearest to town is busy Gyllyngvase, a short walk from the town centre, where there's lots of sand and the lively Gylly Beach Café. Around the headland is little Swanpool, while Maenporth is another mile further west. The 500 bus stops at all three in summer.
National Maritime MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326-313388; www.nmmc.co.uk; Discovery Quay; adult/child £11.50/8; h10am-5pm)
This is the sister outpost to the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, London. It focuses on Falmouth's history as a seafaring port, supplemented by regular nautically themed exhibitions. At the heart of the complex is the impressive Flotilla Gallery, where an array of small boats is suspended from the ceiling on steel wires. From the top floor of the Lookout tower, there's a 360-degree panorama across Falmouth Bay.
Pendennis CastleCASTLE
(EH;
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326-316594; adult/child £7/4.20; h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Apr-Jun & Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar)
Designed to work in tandem with its sister castle in St Mawes, out across the estuary, this Tudor castle sits proudly on Pendennis Point, and was designed as part of Henry VIII's massive castle-building program to reinforce England's coastline. You can wander around several of the castle floors and the Tudor gun deck, as well as the Governor's bedroom, a WWI guardhouse and the WWII-era Half-Moon Battery. Listen out for the Noonday Gun blasting out at midday.
WORTH A TRIP
TREBAH & GLENDURGAN GARDENS
Two of Cornwall's great subtropical gardens sit side by side along the northern bank of the River Helford. First planted in 1840, Trebah (%01326-252200; www.trebahgarden.co.uk; adult/child £9/3; h10.30am-4.30pm) is dramatically situated in a steep ravine filled with giant rhododendrons, huge Brazilian rhubarb plants and jungle ferns.
Next-door Glendurgan (NT; %01326-250906; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/glendurgan-garden; adult/child £7.20/3.60; h10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) was established around the same time by the wealthy Fox family, and is now owned by the National Trust. It has amazing views of the River Helford, as well as an original yew-tree maze and a secluded beach near Durgan village.
They're about 4 miles from Falmouth: head for Mawnan Smith and follow the signs.
4Sleeping
Falmouth Lodge BackpackersHOSTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326-319996; www.falmouthbackpackers.co.uk; 9 Gyllyngvase Tce; dm/s £19/26, d £28-35)
In a mock-Tudor house at the top of town, this friendly hostel makes a fun budget stay. Rooms are small but clean and cosy, there's an Aga in the kitchen and a DVD lounge, and owner Judi often holds impromptu BBQs for guests.
Highcliffe Contemporary B&BB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326-314466; www.highcliffefalmouth.com; 22 Melvill Rd; s £45-55, d £75-130; W)
Vintage furniture and upcycled design pieces give each of the rooms here its own individual feel. The pick of the bunch is the light-filled Attic Penthouse, with skylight windows overlooking Falmouth Bay. Room service breakfasts are served in picnic baskets, or you can tuck into pancakes and Hog's pudding in the dining room.
BosannethB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326-314649; www.bosanneth.co.uk; Gyllyngvase Hill; d from £90; W)
There's a mix-and-match decorative vibe running through this eight-room B&B. Some of the rooms feel vintage, with old mirrors, reclaimed furniture and classic colours, while others go for a more up-to-date look. The 'oasis' garden is a particular delight.
GreenbankHOTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326-312440; www.greenbank-hotel.co.uk; Harbourside; r £99-245; pW)
The queen of Falmouth's old hotels, with a knockout position overlooking the boat-filled estuary towards Flushing. It feels rather like the setting for an Agatha Christie novel – nautical knick-knacks and ships in cabinets dot the public areas, and tall windows look out onto the water. The rooms are more modern, decorated in inoffensive beiges and creams. Sea views command premium prices.
5Eating
oOliver'sBISTRO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326-218138; www.oliversfalmouth.com; 33 High St; mains £12.50-20.50; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat)
Run by chef Ken Oliver, this little bistro is the place everyone wants to dine in Falmouth, but the tiny dining room means you'll have to book well ahead. White walls and pine tables provide a stripped-back match for Ken's no-fuss, Mediterranean-inspired food. Local foragers provide many ingredients.
WheelhouseSEAFOOD
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326-318050; Upton Slip; mains £8-15; h6-10pm Wed-Sat)
Hidden down a narrow alley, this backstreet shellfish bar is another Falmouth favourite. The dining here is DIY: crab, scallops, mussels and lobsters are served shell-on, complete with cracking tools. There are two sittings, but both are always packed out – book well ahead.
Courtyard DeliDELI, CAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326 319526; http:courtyarddeli.wordpress.com; 2 Bells Court; mains £8-12; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Wed, to 9.30pm Thu-Sat, 10.30am-4pm Sun)
Small is beautiful, as this fabulous deli-diner ably demonstrates. Charcuterie, tarts, salads and quiches fill the counter cabinets, and there are evening tapas sessions several times a week. It's up an easy-to-miss alley, next to Beerwolf Books.
Gylly Beach CaféCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326-312884; www.gyllybeach.com; Gyllyngvase Beach; mains £10.95-15.95; h9am-11pm)
When the sun shines, everyone heads to the Gylly Beach for morning coffee or lunch with a sea-view. Sliding doors open onto the glass-fronted patio, perched right above Gyllyngvase's sands. Burgers, kebabs, mussels and salads dominate the menu, and the breakfasts are great.
Rick Stein's FishFISH & CHIPS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01841-532700; Discovery Quay; takeaway £4.95-6.50, mains £10.50-14.50; hnoon-2.30pm & 5-9pm)
Rick Stein's posh fish-and-chips shop now has a Falmouth branch.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Dolly'sTEAROOM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326 218400; www.dollysbar.co.uk; 21 Church St; h10am-10pm or 11pm Tue-Sat)
Frilly and friendly, Dolly's captures the delights of the English tearoom – complete with charity-shop lamps, bone china teapots and cake stands. It kicks into a different gear after dark, with cocktails and jazz.
EspressiniCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 39 Killigrew St; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; W)
Cornwall's best coffee house, bar none. The choice of blends, roasts and coffees are enough to fill a 3m long blackboard. Literally.
Beerwolf BooksPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326 618474; www.beerwolfbooks.co.uk; 3 Bells Court; hnoon-midnight)
Quite possibly the greatest idea ever, anytime, anywhere: a pub and bookshop rolled into one, meaning you can browse for reading material before settling down for a pint of real ale.
The FrontPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01326 212168; Custom House Quay; h11am-11.30pm)
Spit-and-sawdust pub favoured by beer buffs, with scuffed wood floors and real ales served straight from wooden casks.
Chain LockerPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Quay St; h11am-11pm)
A proper old sea-dog's pub, with outside seating on the harbour.
8Getting There & Away
Falmouth is at the end of the branch train line from Truro (£4, 20 minutes), which also stops at Penryn.
ABus 2 (£5, hourly Monday to Saturday) To Penzance via Helston.
ABus 35 (£5, twice daily Monday to Saturday) Stops at Glendurgan and Gweek en route to Helston.
ABus 88 (£5, hourly) Fastest bus to Truro.
Truro
Pop 17,431
Centred on its three-spired 19th-century cathedral, Truro is Cornwall's capital city. Once a busy river port and one of Cornwall's five Stannary towns (where tin was assayed and stamped for export), these days it's a busy commercial city, with a lively centre dominated by the usual coffee shops and chain stores.
Remnants of the city's elegant Georgian past can be seen on Lemon St and Walsingham Pl.
1Sights
Royal Cornwall MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01872-272205; www.royalcornwallmuseum.org.uk; River St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)F
Collections at the county's main museum encompass everything from geological specimens to Celtic torques and a ceremonial carriage. Upstairs there's an Egyptian section and a little gallery with some surprising finds: a Turner here, a van Dyck there, and several works by Stanhope Forbes.
Truro CathedralCHURCH
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.trurocathedral.org.uk; High Cross; suggested donation £4; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun)
Built on the site of a 16th-century parish church in soaring Gothic Revival style, Truro Cathedral was completed in 1910, making it the first cathedral built in England since St Paul's. Inside, the vast nave contains some fine Victorian stained glass and the impressive Father Willis Organ.
Trelissick GardensGARDENS
(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/trelissick-garden; adult/child £8.60/4.30; h10.30am-5.30pm)
At the head of the Fal estuary, 4 miles south of Truro, Trelissick is one of Cornwall's most beautiful estates, with a formal garden filled with magnolias and hydrangeas, and a huge expanse of fields and parkland criss-crossed by walking trails.
Lemon St MarketMARKET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lemonstreetmarket.co.uk; Lemon St; h10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
A covered market housing craft shops, cafes, delis and an upstairs gallery. The willow-and-paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling were built for Truro's Christmas street parade, the City of Lights, held in early December.
WORTH A TRIP
THE ROSELAND
On the opposite side of the Fal Estuary from Truro and Falmouth, the Roseland peninsula gets its name not from flowers, but from the Cornish word ros, meaning promontory. Greener and gentler than the harsh granite cliffs of the north coast, it's a pastoral place, criss-crossed by hedgerows and spotted with quiet villages and sandy bays – including the large beaches of Carne and Pendower, which join together at low tide. It's also well worth visiting the chichi town of St Mawes, which has a beautifully preserved Tudor castle (EH; %01326-270526; adult/child £4.60/2.80; h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar), shaped like a clover leaf.
The quickest route to the Roseland is via the King Harry Ferry (%01872 862312; www.falriver.co.uk/getting-about/ferries/king-harry-ferry; per car one way/return £5/8, bicycles & pedestrians free), which carries cars and pedestrians over the Fal River from near Trelissick Gardens to the opposite side at Philleigh. Otherwise it's a drive of around 14 miles from Truro.
4Sleeping
Mannings HotelHOTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01872-270345; www.manningshotels.co.uk; Lemon St; r £79-109; pW)
The best place to stay in the city centre. The part-Georgian building has been tastefully modernised, with zingy colours and minimalist furniture. There are 'aparthotels' for longer stays (£129).
Merchant House HotelHOTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01872-272450; www.merchant-house.co.uk; 49 Falmouth Rd; s £55, d £70-90, f £95; p)
This smart Victorian house is handy for town, and refurbishment has brightened up the rooms. Some rooms have skylights, others overlook the garden. It's popular with business travellers and organised tours, so it's worth reserving well ahead.
5Eating
Bustopher'sBISTRO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01872-279029; www.bustophersbarbistro.com; 62 Lemon St; mains £10-14; hnoon-10pm Wed-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
Modern urban dining comes to Truro at Bustopher's, a classy bistro decked out with shiny wood, candles on the tables and lots of nooks and crannies. The menu is divided into 'Smalls' and 'Bigs', and runs the gamut from clam and fish stew to confit duck. It's really rather good.
Sam's in the CityBISTRO
(www.samscornwall.co.uk; 1-2 New Bridge St; mains £11.95-21.95; h9am-10pm)
Fowey's long-standing restaurant has a snazzy new city address, in a former jeweller's on one of Truro's oldest streets. The menu is split between seafood classics, steaks, city salads and sharing platters – plus bouillabaisse and seafood feasts for the very hungry.
6Drinking & Entertainment
Old Ale HousePUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Quay St; hnoon-11pm)
A proper ale-drinker's pub, with sawdust on the floor, beer mats on the ceiling and a menu of guest ales.
Old Grammar SchoolPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 19 St Mary St; h10am-late)
Open-plan drinking den with big tables and sofas to sink into. Lunch is served from noon to 3pm; later it's cocktails, candles and Belgian and Japanese beers.
Hall for CornwallTHEATRE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01872-262466; www.hallforcornwall.co.uk; Lemon Quay)
The county's main venue for touring theatre and music.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01872-274555; tic@truro.gov.uk; Boscawen St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Truro's bus station is beside Lemon Quay.
ABus 88 (£5, hourly) Express to Falmouth.
ABus X18 (£5, hourly Monday to Saturday, six on Sunday) To Penzance.
ABus 14/14A (£5, 1½ hours, hourly Monday to Saturday) To St Ives.
Train
Truro is on the main London Paddington–Penzance line and the branch line to Falmouth.
ABristol (£45, 3½ hours)
AExeter (£17.90, 2¼ hours)
AFalmouth (£4, 30 minutes)
ALondon Paddington (£60.50, 4½ hours)
APenzance (£6.40, 30 minutes)
DON'T MISS
CORNWALL'S GLOBETROTTING GARDENS
Lodged at the bottom of a disused clay-pit, the giant biomes of the Eden Project (%01726-811911; www.edenproject.com; adult/child/family £23.50/13.50/68; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar) – the largest greenhouses in the world – have become Cornwall's most celebrated landmark and a definite must-see. Looking like a Bond villain's lair, Eden's bubble-shaped biomes maintain miniature ecosystems that enable all kinds of weird and wonderful plants to flourish – from stinking rafflesia flowers and banana trees in the rainforest biome to cacti and soaring palms in the Mediterranean biome.
Exhibits around the complex explore ecological and conservation themes, covering everything from global warming to rubber production and chocolate-making. Landscaped gardens wind their way between the biomes, but the highlight is the gravity-defying treetop walkway that winds its way through the canopy of the Rainforest Biome.
In summer, the biomes provide a backdrop for live concerts during the Eden Sessions, and in winter host a full-size ice rink.
The Eden site is at Bodelva, about 5 miles' drive from St Austell. There are discounts for buying tickets online and arriving by public transport. Bus 101 runs regularly from St Austell train station; bus 527 travels from Newquay.
Not far away is Cornwall's real-life secret garden, the Lost Gardens of Heligan (%01726-845100; www.heligan.com; adult/child £12/6; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb). Formerly the family estate of the Tremaynes, Heligan's magnificent 19th-century gardens fell into disrepair following WWI, and have since been restored to their former splendour by the brains behind the Eden Project, Tim Smit, and a huge army of gardeners, horticulturalists and volunteers.
It's a horticultural wonderland: wandering round the grounds you'll discover formal lawns, working kitchen gardens, fruit-filled greenhouses, a secret grotto and a 25m-high rhododendron (claimed to be the world's largest). For many people, though, it's the jungle valley which really steals the show – a Lost World landscape of gigantic ferns, towering palms and tropical blooms.
Heligan is 7 miles from St Austell. Bus 526 links Heligan with Mevagissey and St Austell train station (£5).
Fowey
Pop 2273
In many ways, Fowey feels like Padstow's south-coast sister; a workaday port turned well-heeled holiday town, with a tumble of pastel-coloured houses, portside pubs and tiered terraces overlooking the wooded banks of the Fowey River. The town's wealth was founded on the export of china clay from the St Austell pits, but it's been an important port since Elizabethan times, and later became the adopted home of the thriller writer Daphne du Maurier, who used the nearby house at Menabilly Barton as the inspiration for Rebecca.
These days, it's an attractive and increasingly upmarket town, handy for exploring Cornwall's southeastern corner.
1Sights
Readymoney CoveBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
From the town centre, the Esplanade leads down to this little cove and the remains of the small Tudor fort of St Catherine's Castle.
Polkerris BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.polkerrisbeach.com)
A couple of miles west of Fowey, this is the area's largest and busiest beach. Sailing lessons, windsurfing and paddle-boarding are all available.
2Activities
Hall WalkWALKING TRAIL
(www.nationaltrust.org.uk/item379352)
This 3.5-mile circular walk starts across the river from Fowey in Bodinnick, winding along the wooded shores of Pont Pill Creek before following the coastline to the harbour of Polruan, from where you can catch a ferry back to Fowey. You can download a route guide from the National Trust website.
Encounter CornwallKAYAKING
(%07976-466123; www.encountercornwall.com; Golant; adult/child £25/12.50)
Three-hour trips from Golant, just north of Fowey, with a choice of exploring creek or coastline.
4Sleeping
oCoriander CottagesB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01726-834998; www.foweyaccommodation.co.uk; Penventinue Lane; r £100-130; pW)S
A delightfully rural cottage complex on the outskirts of Fowey, with ecofriendly accommodation in a choice of open-plan, self-catering barns, all with quiet country views. The stone barns have been beautifully modernised, and use a combination of solar panels, ground-source heating and rainwater harvesting to reduce environmental impact. A lovely retreat.
Cormorant HotelHOTEL
(%01726-833426; www.cormoranthotel.co.uk; Golant; d £115-170)
Up the creek in Golant, this small hotel has a superb riverside location, and many of its rooms have water-view balconies. They're split into three comfort levels: go for a Superior with view for the premium price/comfort ratio.
Old Quay HouseHOTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01726-833302; www.theoldquayhouse.com; 28 Fore St; d £145-395; W)
The epitome of Fowey's upmarket trend, this exclusive quayside hotel is all natural fabrics, rattan chairs and tasteful tones, and the rooms are a mix of estuary-view suites and attic penthouses. Very Kensington, not very Cornish.
5Eating & Drinking
Lifebuoy CafeCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %07715-075869; www.thelifebuoycafe.co.uk; 8 Lostwithiel St; mains £5-10; h8am-5pm)
Everyone's favourite brekkie stop in Fowey, this friendly cafe is a riot of character, from the brightly coloured furniture and polka-dot bunting to the vintage Action Men on the shelves. Wolf down a Fat Buoy brekkie or a classic fish-finger butty, washed down with a mug of good old English tea.
Dwelling HouseCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01726-833662; 6 Fore St; tea £3-6; h10am-6.30pm May-Sep, to 5.30pm Wed-Sun Oct-Apr)
Top spot for tea (20-plus varieties) and dainty cakes (decorated with sprinkles and icing swirls, and served on a proper cake stand).
BistroFRENCH
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01726-832322; www.thebistrofowey.co.uk; 24 Fore St; 2-/3-course menu £15.95/18.95)
Solid bistro dining on Fowey's main street, offering a Cornish spin on French classics, with an especially strong focus on seafood. It's stylish inside, with mosaic floors and monochrome photos.
Sam'sBISTRO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.samsfowey.co.uk; 20 Fore St; mains £6.50-13.95; hnoon-9pm)
Sam's has been a stalwart in Fowey for years. Booth seats, day-glo menus and classic movie posters keep the feel laid-back, and the menu of burgers, fishy specials, salads and 'old favourites' all come in a choice of starter or main sizes. There's a beachside outpost beside Polkerris Beach. No bookings.
King of PrussiaPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.kingofprussia.co.uk; Town Quay; h11am-11pm)
Fowey has lots of pubs, but you might as well go for the one with the best harbour view, named after notorious 'free trader' John Carter.
8Getting There & Away
Buses to Fowey all stop at Par Station, where you can catch trains to the Penzance–London Paddington main line. Bus 524/525 (half-hourly) stops in Fowey, St Austell (£4) and Mevagissey (£5); the 525 continues to Heligan (£5).
Bodinnick FerryFERRY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; car & 2 passengers/pedestrian/bicycle £4.60/1.70/free; hlast ferry 8.45pm Apr-Oct, 7pm Nov-Mar)
Car ferry crossing the river to Bodinnick.
Polruan FerryFERRY
(adult/child/bicycle £1.80/80p/£1; hlast ferry 9pm Sun-Thu, 11pm Fri & Sat)
Passenger ferry to Polruan. In winter and on summer evenings, it runs from Town Quay; during the day, it runs from Whitehouse Slipway on the Esplanade.
Polperro
Pop 1206
Even in a county where picturesque fishing harbours are 10-a-penny, it's hard not to fall for Polperro – a warren of cottages, boat stores and alleyways, all set around a stout granite harbour. Unsurprisingly, this was once a smugglers' hideout, and it's still a place with a salty, sea-dog atmosphere, despite the inevitable summer crowds. The coast path between Polperro and Looe is especially scenic, especially around Talland Bay.
The main car park is 750m uphill from the village, from where it's a 15-minute stroll down to the quayside. Apart from simply wandering and soaking up the scenery, it's worth popping into the ramshackle Polperro Heritage Museum (%01503-272423; The Warren; adult/child £1.75/50p; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct), which explores the town's seafaring and smuggling heritage.
The 573 bus (£2.80, hourly) runs between Liskeard, Looe and Polperro, while the 572 (£6.50, hourly Monday to Saturday, three on Sunday) continues to Plymouth.
Looe
Pop 5280
Tucked into the long curve of coast between the Fowey River and Plymouth Sound, Looe is half historic fishing port, half bucket-and-spade resort. Split into East and West Looe and linked by a historic arched bridge, it's a pleasant base for exploring Cornwall's southeastern reaches, and has some lovely beaches nearby.
1Sights & Activities
Half a mile offshore is tiny Looe Island, a 9-hectare nature reserve run by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust. The boat Islander (%07814-139223; adult/child return £7/5, plus landing fee £3/1) crosses to the island in summer. Guided nature walks leave from the quay.
Wild Futures Monkey SanctuaryWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%01503-262532; www.monkeysanctuary.org; St Martins; adult/child £8/5; h11am-4.30pm Sun-Thu Easter-Sep; c)
Half a mile west of town, this wildlife centre is guaranteed to raise some 'aaahhhhs' over its woolly and capuchin monkeys, many of which were rescued from captivity.
Porfell Wildlife ParkZOO
(%01503-220211; www.porfell.co.uk; Lanreath; adult/child £9.50/7.50; h10am-6pm; c)
A lively animal park a couple of miles outside Looe, with wild denizens including macaws, parakeets, owls, lemurs, meerkats and zebras, as well as a venerable capybara called Bert.
4Sleeping
Penvith BarnsB&B
(%01503-240772; www.penvithbarns.co.uk; St-Martin-by-Looe; s £63-72, d £65-80; pW#)
Escape the Looe crowds at this rural barn conversion in the nearby hamlet of St-Martin-by-Looe, run by friendly owners Graham and Jules. Rooms range from small to spacious: the Piggery is tiny and tucked under the eaves, while the Dairy has enough space for a spare bed and sofa.
Barclay HouseB&B
(%01503-262929; www.barclayhouse.co.uk; St Martins Rd; d £95-130; pW
s)
This detached Victorian villa sits on 2.4-hectare gardens and has the best bedrooms in East Looe, with wraparound river views and graceful shades of peach, pistachio and aquamarine. It has self-catering cottages available if you want to stay longer.
8Information
Looe Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%01503-262072; www.visit-southeastcornwall.co.uk; Guildhall, Fore St; h10am-5pm Easter-Oct,)
8Getting There & Away
Bus 572 travels to Plymouth (1¼ hours, seven daily Monday to Saturday). Trains on the Looe Valley Line (every two hours Monday to Saturday, eight on Sunday, day ranger adult/child £5/3.15) trundle along a gorgeous stretch of track to Liskeard.
Southeast Cornwall & the Rame Peninsula
Often called 'Cornwall's forgotten corner', the Rame Peninsula remains one of Cornwall's most unspoilt pockets, and it's a fine place to head when you want to give the crowds the slip. This area was once parcelled up between some of Cornwall's old aristocratic families, and several grand country estates are open to the public. If you have time, it's also worth stopping at the little harbour villages of Kingsand and Cawsand, and the impressive 3-mile expanse of Whitsand Bay (not to be confused with Whitesand Bay, near Sennen). Further inland, Cornwall's southeast is also home to some impressive historic homes.
1Sights
LanhydrockHISTORIC BUILDING
(NT; %01208-265950; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lanhydrock; adult/child £11.30/5.60, grounds only £7/3.50; hhouse 11am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, grounds 10am-6pm daily)
This huge house provides a fascinating insight into the 'upstairs, downstairs' lives of the Cornish gentry, namely the Robartes family. Extensively rebuilt after a fire in 1881, it's the quintessential Victorian manor, complete with gentlemen's smoking room, toy-strewn nursery and antique-filled dining room – as well as an enormous kitchen which has its original roasting spit.
The house is 2.5 miles southeast of Bodmin.
Antony HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(NT; %01752-812191; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/antony; adult/child £8.10/5.10, grounds only £4.10/2.10; hhouse 1-5pm, gardens noon-5pm Tue-Thu & Sun)
Owned by the National Trust and occupied by the Carew-Pole family, this house's main claim to fame are its decorative gardens, designed by the 18th-century landscape architect Humphry Repton and filled with outlandish topiary, some of which featured in Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland. It's 9 miles east of Looe or 6 miles west from Plymouth.
Port EliotHISTORIC BUILDING
(%01503-230211; www.porteliot.co.uk; house & grounds adult/child £8/4, grounds only £5/2; h2-6pm Sat-Thu Mar-Jun)
This glorious 2400-hectare estate is the family seat of the Earl of St Germans. The house is open for three months of the year, and the estate has lots and lots of fabulous walks. The annual Port Eliot Festival (www.porteliotfestival.com) of music and literature is held in July.
8Getting There & Away
On the Rame Peninsula's east side, the Torpoint Ferry (www.tamarcrossings.org.uk/index.aspx?articleid=36386; cars £2.50, pedestrians & cyclists free; h24hr) chugs across the River Tamar to Plymouth.
Bodmin Moor
It can't quite boast the wild majesty of Dartmoor, but Bodmin Moor has a bleak beauty all of its own. Pock-marked with heaths and granite hills, including Rough Tor (pronounced 'row-tor'; 400m) and Cornwall's highest point, Brown Willy (419m), it's a desolate place that works on the imagination; for years there have been reported sightings of the Beast of Bodmin, a large, black cat-like creature, although no one's ever managed to snap a decent picture.
Apart from the hills, the moor's main landmark is Jamaica Inn (%01566-86250; www.jamaicainn.co.uk; s £65, d £80-110; p), made famous by Daphne du Maurier's novel of the same name – although it's disappointingly been modernised since the author's day.
Bus services are very limited on the moor, so you'll need a car to explore.
1Sights & Activities
Golitha FallsWATERFALL
Around 1.25 miles west of St Cleer, these crashing waterfalls are one of the most renowned beauty spots on the moor. Around the falls are the remains of the ancient oak woodland which once covered much of the moor. There is a car park half a mile's walk from the reserve near Draynes Bridge.
Carnglaze CavernsCAVE
(%01579-320251; www.carnglaze.com; adult/child £6/4; h10am-5pm)
Slate was once extensively mined on the moor, leaving behind a network of deep caverns such as these ones outside St Neot. Several of the caves are open to the public and can be visited on an underground tour.
Cardinham WoodsHIKING, BIKING
(%01208-72577; www.forestry.gov.uk/cardinham)
Just outside Bodmin, this large public forest is a great spot for a woody wander, and also has a network of mountain-bike trails if you're feeling more energetic. The Bodmin and Wenford Railway stops at nearby Coleslogget Halt, from where a 1.5-mile trail leads to Cardinham.
Bodmin & Wenford RailwayHERITAGE RAILWAY
(%01208-73555; www.bodminandwenfordrailway.co.uk; rover pass adult/child £12/6; hMar-Oct)
Run by enthusiasts, this steam railway chuffs and clatters for 6.5 miles between Bodmin and Boscarne Junction. Many trains are still decked out in their original 1950s livery. At the Boscarne end, the line links up with the Camel Trail; bikes can be taken on the trains if there's space. Look out for special trips in summer, including Pullman-style dining trains that include a silver-service supper.