Liverpool
Pop 466,400
Few English cities are as shackled by reputation as Liverpool, and none has worked so hard to outgrow the clichés that for so long have been used to define it.
A hardscrabble town with a reputation for wit and an obsessive love of football, Liverpool also has an impressive cultural heritage: it has more listed museums than any other city outside London, its galleries are among the best in the country, and it has recently undergone an impressive program of urban regeneration. And then there's the Beatles. Liverpool cherishes them not because it's stuck in the past and hasn't gotten over the fact that they're long gone – it's because their worldwide popularity would make it crazy not to do so.
The main attractions are Albert Dock (west of the city centre), and the trendy Ropewalks area (south of Hanover St and west of the two cathedrals). Lime St station, the bus station and the Cavern Quarter – a mecca for Beatles fans – lie just to the north.
LIVERPOOL IN…
FOUR DAYS
Follow the two-day itinerary and make a pilgrimage to Mendips and 20 Forthlin Road, the childhood homes of John Lennon and Paul McCartney respectively. For dinner, try HoSt. The next day, walk on holy ground at Anfield, home of Liverpool Football Club. Race junkies can head to the visitor centre at Aintree racecourse, which hosts England's beloved race, the Grand National.
History
Liverpool grew wealthy on the back of the triangular trading of slaves, raw materials and finished goods. From 1700 ships carried cotton goods and hardware from Liverpool to West Africa, where they were exchanged for slaves, who in turn were carried to the West Indies and Virginia, where they were exchanged for sugar, rum, tobacco and raw cotton.
As a great port, the city drew thousands of Irish and Scottish immigrants, and its Celtic influences are still apparent. Between 1830 and 1930, however, nine million emigrants – mainly English, Scots and Irish, but also Swedes, Norwegians and Russian Jews – sailed from here to the New World.
The start of WWII led to a resurgence of Liverpool's importance. More than one million American GIs disembarked here before D-Day and the port was, once again, hugely important as the western gateway for transatlantic supplies. The GIs brought with them the latest American records, and Liverpool was thus the first European port of call for the new rhythm and blues that would eventually become rock and roll. Within 20 years, the Mersey Beat was the sound of British pop, and four mop-topped Scousers had formed a skiffle band…
Liverpool
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Sights
The wonderful Albert Dock is the city's biggest tourist attraction and the key to understanding the city's history, but the city centre is where you'll find most of Liverpool's real day-to-day life.
City Centre
oWorld MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
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; 
%0151-478 4399; www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/wml; William Brown St; 
h10am-5pm)
F
Natural history, science and technology are the themes of the oldest museum in town, which opened in 1853 and whose exhibits range from live bugs to human anthropology. This vastly entertaining and educational museum is spread across five themed floors, from the live fish aquarium on the 1st floor to the planetarium on the 5th, where you'll also find exhibits dedicated to space (moon rocks, telescopes etc) and time (clocks and timepieces from the 1500s to 1960). Highly recommended.
oLiverpool CathedralCHURCH
(
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; %0151-709 6271; www.liverpoolcathedral.org.uk; Upper Duke St; visitor centre & tower admission £5; h8am-6pm)
Liverpool's Anglican cathedral is a building of superlatives. Not only is it Britain's largest church, it's also the world's largest Anglican cathedral. It is the work of Sir Gilbert Scott, who also gave us the red telephone box and the Southwark Power Station in London, now the Tate Modern. The central bell is the world's third largest (with the world's highest and heaviest peal), while the organ, with its 9765 pipes, is likely the world's largest operational model.
The visitor centre features Great Space; this 10-minute, panoramic high-definition movie about the history of the cathedral is followed by your own audiovisual tour, courtesy of a headset. Your ticket also gives you access to the cathedral's 101m tower, from which there are terrific views of the city and beyond – on a clear day you can see Blackpool Tower.
oWalker Art GalleryART MUSEUM
(
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; %0151-478 4199; www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/walker; William Brown St; h10am-5pm)F
The city's foremost art gallery is the national gallery for northern England, housing an outstanding collection of art from the 14th to the 21st centuries. Its strong suits are pre-Raphaelite art, modern British art and sculpture – not to mention the rotating exhibits of contemporary expression. It's a family-friendly place, too: the ground-floor Big Art for Little People gallery is designed for under-eights and features interactive exhibits and games that will (hopefully) result in a lifelong love affair with art.
St George's HallCULTURAL CENTRE
(
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; %0151-707 2391; www.stgeorgesliverpool.co.uk; William Brown St; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun)F
Arguably Liverpool's most impressive building is the Grade I–listed St George's Hall, a magnificent example of neoclassical architecture that is as imposing today as it was when it was completed in 1854. Curiously, it was built as law courts and a concert hall – presumably a judge could pass sentence and then relax to a string quartet.
Inside, you can visit the recently refurbished courtroom and robing room, stop by the cells below, and get a nice vantage point on the Great Hall, home to Britain’s second-largest organ (its 7000 pipes are pipped by the organ in London’s Albert Hall). The building also hosts concerts, corporate gigs and a host of other civic get-togethers; it is also the focal point of any city-wide celebration.
Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the KingCHURCH
(
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; %0151-709 9222; www.liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk; Brownlow Hill; h7.30am-6pm)
Known colloquially as Paddy's Wigwam, Liverpool's Catholic cathedral is a mightily impressive modern building that looks like a soaring concrete tepee, hence its nickname. It was completed in 1967 according to the design of Sir Frederick Gibberd after the original plans by Sir Edwin Lutyens, whose crypt is inside. The central tower frames the world's largest stained-glass window, created by John Piper and Patrick Reyntiens.
Liverpool War MuseumMUSEUM
(
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; www.liverpoolwarmuseum.co.uk; 1 Rumford St; adult/child £6/4; h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat Mar-Oct)
The secret command centre for the Battle of the Atlantic, the Western Approaches, was abandoned at the end of the war with virtually everything left intact. You can get a good glimpse of the labyrinthine nerve centre of Allied operations, including the all-important map room, where you can imagine playing a real-life, full-scale version of Risk.
LIVERPOOL FOR CHILDREN
The waterfront museums are extremely popular with kids, especially the Museum of Liverpool and the Merseyside Maritime Museum, which has a couple of boats for kids to mess about on. A visit to Anfield Rd is a must if your kids have any kind of interest in football. The Big Art for Little People gallery at the Walker Art Gallery is perfect for kids who want to find out that art is more than just something adults stare at.
Albert Dock
Liverpool's biggest tourist attraction is Albert Dock (
MAP
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; %0151-708 8854; www.albertdock.com; admission free), 2.75 hectares of water ringed by enormous cast-iron columns and impressive five-storey warehouses that make up the country's largest collection of protected buildings and are a World Heritage Site. A fabulous development program has really brought the dock to life – here you'll find several outstanding museums and an extension of London's Tate Gallery, as well as a couple of top-class restaurants and bars.
oInternational Slavery MuseumMUSEUM
(
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; %0151-478 4499; www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/ism; Albert Dock; h10am-5pm)F
Museums are, by their very nature, like a still of the past, but the extraordinary International Slavery Museum resonates very much in the present. It reveals slavery's unimaginable horrors – including Liverpool's own role in the triangular slave trade – in a clear and uncompromising manner. It does this through a remarkable series of multi-media and other displays, and it doesn't baulk at confronting racism, slavery's shadowy ideological justification for this inhumane practice.
The history of slavery is made real through a series of personal experiences, including a carefully kept ship's log and captain's diary. These tell the story of one slaver's experience on a typical trip, departing Liverpool for West Africa. The ship then purchased or captured as many slaves as it could carry before embarking on the gruesome 'middle passage' across the Atlantic to the West Indies. The slaves that survived the torturous journey were sold for sugar, rum, tobacco and raw cotton, which were then brought back to England for profit. Exhibits include original shackles, chains and instruments used to punish rebellious slaves – each piece of metal is more horrendous than the next.
It's heady, disturbing stuff, but as well as providing an insightful history lesson, we are reminded of our own obligations to humanity and justice throughout the museum, not least in the Legacies of Slavery exhibit, which explores the continuing fight for freedom and equality.
oBeatles StoryMUSEUM
(
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GOOGLE MAP
; %0151-709 1963; www.beatlesstory.com; Albert Dock; adult/child £12.95/7, incl Elvis & Us £15.95/7; h9am-7pm, last admission 5pm)
Liverpool's most popular museum won't illuminate any dark, juicy corners in the turbulent history of the world's most famous foursome – there's ne'er a mention of internal discord, drugs or Yoko Ono – but there's plenty of genuine memorabilia to keep a Beatles fan happy. You can also get a combo ticket for the Elvis & Us exhibit at the Beatles Story extension on Pier Head.
Particularly impressive is the full-size replica Cavern Club (which was actually tiny) and the Abbey Rd studio where the lads recorded their first singles, while George Harrison's crappy first guitar (now worth half a million quid) should inspire budding, penniless musicians to keep the faith.
Merseyside Maritime MuseumMUSEUM
(
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; %0151-478 4499; www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/maritime; Albert Dock; h10am-5pm)F
The story of one of the world's great ports is the theme of this excellent museum and, believe us, it's a graphic and compelling page-turner. One of the many great exhibits is Emigration to a New World, which tells the story of nine million emigrants and their efforts to get to North America and Australia; the walk-through model of a typical ship shows just how tough conditions on board really were.
Tate LiverpoolGALLERY
(
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; %0151-702 7400; www.tate.org.uk/liverpool; Albert Dock; special exhibitions adult/child from £5/4; h10am-5.50pm Jun-Aug, closed Mon Sep-May)F
Touted as the home of modern art in the north, this gallery features a substantial checklist of 20th-century artists across its four floors, as well as touring exhibitions from the mother ship on London's Bankside. But it's all a little sparse, with none of the energy we'd expect from the world-famous Tate.
North of Albert Dock
The area to the north of Albert Dock is known as Pier Head, after a stone pier built in the 1760s. This is still the departure point for ferries across the River Mersey, and was for millions of migrants their final contact with European soil.
The Museum of Liverpool is an impressive architectural interloper, but pride of place in this part of the dock still goes to the trio of Edwardian buildings known as the 'Three Graces', dating from the days when Liverpool's star was still ascending. The southernmost, with the dome mimicking St Paul's Cathedral, is the Port of Liverpool Building (
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), completed in 1907. Next to it is the Cunard Building (
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), in the style of an Italian palazzo, once HQ to the Cunard Steamship Line. Finally, the Royal Liver Building (
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) (pronounced lie-ver) was opened in 1911 as the head office of the Royal Liver Friendly Society. It's crowned by Liverpool's symbol, the famous 5.5m copper Liver Bird.
oMuseum of LiverpoolMUSEUM
(
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; %0151-478 4545; www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/mol; Pier Head; h10am-5pm)F
Liverpool's storied past is explored through an interactive exploration of the city's cultural and historical milestones – the railroad, poverty, wealth, Brookside (a popular '80s TV soap opera set in the city), the Beatles and football (the film on the meaning of the game to the city is worth the 15 minutes). The desire to tell all of the city's rich story means there isn't a huge amount of depth, but the kids will love it.
Beatles Story: Elvis & UsEXHIBITION
(
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; %0151-709 1963; www.elvisandus.com; Mersey Ferries Terminal, Pier Head; admission £6; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-Mar)
The meeting of pop music's most iconic figures on 27 August 1965 forms the basis of this exhibit atop the Pier Head ferry terminal. Want to gawk at the white Fender bass Paul played at the meeting? Stare lovingly at the shirt Elvis wore in Jailhouse Rock? Look at rare footage and examine a ticket to the '68 comeback special? Then this is the place to do it.
TTours
Beatles Fab Four Taxi TourTAXI TOUR
(%0151-601 2111; www.thebeatlesfabfourtaxitour.co.uk; 2/3hr tour £45/55)
Themed tours of the city's mop-top landmarks – there's the three-hour original Lennon tour or the two-hour Epstein express tour. Pick-ups arranged when booking. Up to five people per tour.
Liverpool Beatles TourGUIDED TOUR
(%0151-281 7738; www.beatlestours.co.uk; tours from £65)
Your own personalised tour of every bit of Beatles minutiae, from cradle to grave. Tours range from the three-hour Helter Skelter excursion to the Fantastic All-Day Tour, by the end of which, presumably, you'll be convinced you were actually in the band. Pick-ups are arranged upon booking.
Magical Mystery TourGUIDED TOUR
(
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; %0151-709 3285; www.cavernclub.org; per person £16.95; htours 10.30am, 11.30am, 1pm & 2pm)
Two-hour tour that takes in all Beatles-related landmarks – their birthplaces, childhood homes, schools and places such as Penny Lane and Strawberry Field – before finishing up in the Cavern Club (which isn't the original). Departs from opposite the tourist office on Albert Dock.
(NEVER) LET IT BE
They broke up more than 40 years ago and two of their members are dead, but the Beatles are bigger business than ever in Liverpool.
Most of it centres around tiny Mathew St, site of the original Cavern Club, which is now the main thoroughfare of the 'Cavern Quarter'. Here you can shuck oysters in the Rubber Soul Oyster Bar, buy a George pillowcase in the From Me to You shop and put it on the pillows of the Hard Day's Night Hotel. Ringo may have disparaged the city in 2008 by declaring that he missed nothing about it, but the city's tourist authorities continue to exploit Liverpool's ties to the world's most famous group and have done so with enormous success – the original, Beatles-oriented Mathew St Festival was enormously popular, attracting over 350,000 fans (it's now the Liverpool International Music Festival and explores music beyond the Fab Four).
Wandering around Mathew St is plenty of fun – and the Beatles Shop is best for memorabilia – but if you really want a bit of Beatles lore, you'll have to visit the National Trust–owned Mendips, the home where John lived with his Aunt Mimi from 1945 to 1963 (which is also the time period covered by Sam Taylor-Wood's superb 2009 biopic of the young Lennon, Nowhere Boy) and 20 Forthlin Road, the plain terraced home where Paul grew up; you can only do so by prebooked tour (
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; %0151-427 7231; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Jury's Inn, 31 Keel Wharf, Wapping Dock; adult/child £22/7; h10am, 11am & 2.15pm Wed-Sun Mar-Nov). Tours also leave from Speke Hall (%0151-427 7231; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; The Walk, Speke; h3.15pm Wed-Sun Mar-Oct).
If you'd rather do it yourself, the tourist offices stock the Discover Lennon's Liverpool guide and map, and Ron Jones' The Beatles' Liverpool.
zFestivals & Events
CreamfieldsMUSIC, DANCE
(www.cream.co.uk)
An alfresco dance-fest that brings together some of the world's best DJs and dance acts during the last weekend in August. It takes place at the Daresbury Estate near Halton, Cheshire.
International BeatleweekMUSIC
(www.cavernclub.org)
Tribute bands keep the crowds entertained across a week in late August of Beatles-inspired music and talks organised by the Cavern Club.
Liverpool International Music FestivalMUSIC
(%0151-239 9091; www.limfestival.org)
A festival showcasing local bands and international acts across five different venues spread throughout the city during the last two weeks of August.
THE GRAND NATIONAL
Grand NationalHORSE RACING
(%0151-522 2929; www.aintree.co.uk)
The world's most famous steeplechase – and one of England's most cherished events – takes place on the first Saturday in April across 4.5 miles and over the most difficult fences in world racing. Its protagonists are 40-odd veteran stalwarts of the jumps, ageing bruisers full of the oh-so-English qualities of grit and derring-do. If you want to attend the race, you'd better book tickets far in advance.
4Sleeping
Liverpool's choice of accommodation ranges from sexy boutique to strictly functional. Rooms are at a premium when Liverpool FC are playing at home and during the mobbed-out music festivals of late August. If you fancy self-catering options, the tourist office has all the information you need.
City Centre
oRichmond HotelHOTEL
(
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; www.richmondliverpool.com; 24 Hatton Garden; d from £80, 2-bedroom apt from £199)
Centrally located and fully renovated, the Richmond offers a convenient choice of accommodation, from classic doubles and suites to fully equipped, self-catering one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments. All of the rooms have high-spec decor, including 50in flatscreen TVs and fancy toiletries. Guests also have access to the hotel spa.
Radisson BluHOTEL
(
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; %0151-966 1500; www.radissonblu.co.uk; 107 Old Hall St; r from £95; 
i
W)
The rooms at this funky Scandinavian design hotel are divided into 'Ocean', with regal blues and views of the docks and the Mersey, and 'Urban', with luscious reds and purples and city views. Each comes with all the designer gadgetry you'd expect: flatscreen TVs, free highspeed wi-fi and super-hip bathrooms. They're not especially huge, but they're very cool, baby.
62 Castle StBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
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; %0151-702 7898; www.62castlest.com; 62 Castle St; r from £80; 
piW)
This elegant property successfully blends the traditional Victorian features of the neoclassical building with a sleek, contemporary style. The 20 fabulously different suites come with high-definition plasma-screen TVs, drench showers and luxe toiletries as standard.
Roscoe HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
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; %0151-709 0286; www.roscoehouse.com; 27 Rodney St; r from £70; W)
A handsome Georgian home once owned by Liverpool-born writer and historian William Roscoe (1753–1831) has been given the once-over and is now a chic boutique hotel. The elegant rooms combine period touches (original coving, fireplaces and furnishings) with contemporary comforts such as flatscreen TVs and fancy Egyptian cotton sheets.
oHope Street HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
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; %0151-709 3000; www.hopestreethotel.co.uk; 40 Hope St; r/ste from £130/190; iW)
Luxurious Liverpool's pre-eminent flag-waver is this stunning boutique hotel on the city's most elegant street. King-sized beds draped in Egyptian cotton, oak floors with underfloor heating, LCD TVs and sleek modern bathrooms (with REN bath and beauty products) are but the most obvious touches of class at this supremely cool address. Breakfast, taken in the marvellous London Carriage Works, is not included.
Around Albert Dock
Liverpool YHAHOSTEL
(
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; %0845-371 9527; www.yha.org.uk; 25 Tabley St; dm from £18; pW)
It may have the look of an Eastern European apartment complex, but this award-winning hostel, adorned with plenty of Beatles memorabilia, is one of the most comfortable you'll find anywhere in the country. The dorms with en suite bathrooms even have heated towel rails.
5Eating
Top grade international cuisine, the best of British and the greasy spoon…you'll find plenty of choices to satisfy every taste. Best spots include Ropewalks, along Hardman St and Hope St.
HoStASIAN, FUSION
(
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; www.ho-st.co.uk; 31 Hope St; mains £9.50-13; h11am-11pm; 
v
c)
A bright, airy room with the look of a chic, contemporary New York brasserie serves up excellent pan-Asian dishes like Indonesian braised lamb with fried rice and red duck coconut curry with lychees. The starter nibbles are pretty delicious, too.
QuarterBISTRO
(
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; %0151-707 1965; www.thequarteruk.com; 7-11 Falkner St; mains £9-15; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat & Sun)
A gorgeous little wine bar and bistro with outdoor seating for that elusive summer's day.
London Carriage WorksMODERN BRITISH
(
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; %0151-705 2222; www.thelondoncarriageworks.co.uk; 40 Hope St; 2-/3-course meal £17.50/22.50, mains £16-30; h7-10am & noon-10pm Mon-Fri, 8-11am & noon-10pm Sat, to 9pm Sun)
Liverpool's dining revolution is being led by Paul Askew's award-winning restaurant, which successfully blends ethnic influences from around the globe with staunch British favourites and serves up the result in a beautiful dining room – actually more of a bright glass box divided only by a series of sculpted glass shards. Reservations are recommended.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Unless specified, all the bars included here open from 11am until 2am Monday to Saturday, and most have a nominal entry charge after 11pm. Most of the city's clubs are concentrated in Ropewalks, where they compete for customers with a tonne of late-night bars; considering the number of punters in the area on a Friday or Saturday night, we're guessing there's plenty of business for everyone.
Everyman BistroBAR
(
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; www.everymanplayhouse.com; Williamson Sq; h10am-10pm)
This Liverpool institution reopened in 2014 in a new location and is better than ever. The downstairs bar and bistro are packed most evenings, making this one of the best places in town for a drink and a bite. The wi-fi is stronger than in most other bars.
PhilharmonicPUB
(
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; 36 Hope St; h10am-11.30pm)
This extraordinary bar, designed by the shipwrights who built the Lusitania, is one of the most beautiful bars in all of England. The interior is resplendent with etched and stained glass, wrought iron, mosaics and ceramic tiling – and if you think that's good, just wait until you see inside the marble men's toilets, the only heritage-listed lav in the country.
Ye CrackePUB
(
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; 13 Rice St; h11am-11pm)
A traditional pub with a beer garden; the fact that John and Cynthia Lennon liked coming here when they were students is completely incidental to its charms.
24 Kitchen StreetCLUB
(
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; www.facebook.com/24kitchenstreet; 24 Kitchen St; tickets £8-12; h9pm-4am Fri & Sat)
A multi-purpose venue that splits its focus between the arts and electronic music. The converted Victorian building is one of the best places in town to dance in.
3Entertainment
Philharmonic HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
(
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; %0151-709 3789; www.liverpoolphil.com; Hope St)
One of Liverpool's most beautiful buildings, the art-deco Phil is home to the city's main classical orchestra, but it also stages the work of avant-garde musicians such as John Cage and Nick Cave.
Cavern ClubLIVE MUSIC
(
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; %0151-236 1965; www.cavernclub.org; 8-10 Mathew St; admission before/after 2pm free/£4; h10am-midnight Mon-Wed & Sun, to 1.30am Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
It's a reconstruction, and not even on the same spot, but the 'world's most famous club' is still a great spot to see local bands.
Liverpool FCFOOTBALL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0151-263 9199, ticket office 0151-220 2345; www.liverpoolfc.com; Anfield Rd)
Doff o' the cap to Evertonians and Beatle-maniacs, but no single institution represents the Mersey spirit and strong sense of identity more powerfully than Liverpool FC, who dominated British football in the 70s and 80s, but have had to watch as their bitter rivals Manchester United did the same in the decades since.
New manager Brendan Rodgers was appointed in 2012 and has re-established the club as viable contenders for the league title: in 2014 they were pipped to the prize by Manchester City, but the club's millions of fans worldwide have a renewed sense of hope for the future.
After years of discussion, plans to enlarge the utterly marvellous Anfield Road were approved in 2014 and the 60,000-capacity ground should be ready by 2017. In the meantime, the experience of a live match remains a sporting highlight of a visit to England, especially the sound of 40,000 fans singing the club's anthem, 'You'll Never Walk Alone'. The Anfield Stadium Tour (www.liverpoolfc.com; Anfield Stadium; stadium tour adult/child £16.50/10) brings fans to the home dressing room and down the tunnel past the famous 'This is Anfield' sign into the pitchside dugout. Take bus 26 or 27 from Paradise St Interchange or bus 17 or 217 from the Queen St Bus Station.
Everton Football ClubFOOTBALL
(
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; %0151-330 2400, ticket office 0151-330 2300; www.evertonfc.com; Goodison Park)
Founded in 1878, Liverpool's blue half, Everton FC, consoles itself for existing in the shadow of its more successful neighbour with the historical truth of 'we were there first'. Goodison Park Tours (%0151-530 5212; www.evertonfc.com; adult/child £10/5; h11am & 1pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sun) run throughout the year, except on the Friday before home matches. Take bus 19, 20 or 21 from Paradise St Interchange or Queen St Bus Station.
8Information
There is a small tourist office (
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; %0151-707 0729; www.visitliverpool.com; Anchor Courtyard; h10am-6pm) in Albert Dock, and a separate accommodation hotline (%0845-601 1125; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat).
Liverpool Magazine
(www.liverpool.com)
Insiders' guide to the city run by the Liverpool Echo, including lots of great recommendations for food and nights out.
Mars PharmacyMEDICAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 68 London Rd)
Open until 10pm every night.
Merseyside Police HeadquartersPOLICE
(
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; %0151-709 6010; Canning Pl)
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
(
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; Ranelagh St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
Royal Liverpool University HospitalMEDICAL/HOSPITAL
(%0151-706 2000; Prescot St)
8Getting There & Away
Air
Liverpool John Lennon Airport (%0870-750 8484; www.liverpoolairport.com; Speke Hall Ave) serves a variety of international destinations as well as destinations in the UK (Belfast, London and the Isle of Man).
Bus
The National Express Coach Station (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.nationalexpress.com; Norton St) is 300m north of Lime St station. There are services to/from most major towns including Birmingham (£13.80, 2¾ hours, five daily), London (£28, five to six hours, six daily), Manchester (£7.10, 1¼ hours, hourly) and Newcastle (£25.70, 6½ hours, three daily).
Train
Liverpool's main station is Lime St. It has hourly services to almost everywhere, including Chester (£6.65, 45 minutes), London Euston (£78.70, 3¼ hours) and Manchester (£11.90, 45 minutes).
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
The airport is 8 miles south of the centre. Arriva Airlink (www.arriva.co.uk; adult £2; h6am-11pm) buses 80A and 180 depart from Paradise St Interchange, and Arriva 500 (
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; www.arriva.co.uk; £2.50; h5.15am-12.15am) buses leave from outside Lime St station. Buses from both stations take half an hour and run every 20 minutes. A taxi to the city centre should cost no more than £18.
Boat
The famous Mersey ferry (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.merseyferries.co.uk; one way/return £2.30/2.80) crossing for Woodside and Seacombe departs from Pier Head Ferry Terminal, next to the Royal Liver Building (to the north of Albert Dock).
Car & Motorcycle
You won't really have much use for a car in Liverpool, and it'll no doubt end up costing you plenty in parking fees. If you have to drive, there are parking meters around the city and a number of open and sheltered car parks. Car break-ins are a significant problem, so leave absolutely nothing of value in the car.
Public Transport
Local public transport is coordinated by Merseytravel (www.merseytravel.gov.uk). Highly recommended is the Saveaway ticket (adult/child £5/2.50), which allows for one day's off-peak (after 9.30am) travel on all bus, train and ferry services throughout Merseyside. Tickets are available at shops and post offices throughout the city. Paradise St Interchange is in the city centre.
Merseyrail (www.merseyrail.org) is an extensive suburban rail service linking Liverpool with the Greater Merseyside area. There are four stops in the city centre: Lime St, Central (handy for Ropewalks), James St (close to Albert Dock) and Moorfields (for the Liverpool War Museum).
Taxi
Mersey Cabs (%0151-298 2222) operates tourist taxi services and also has some wheelchair-accessible cabs.
Isle of Man
Deliberately different and not-so-ferociously independent, the Isle of Man (Ellan Vannin in Manx, the local lingo) has doggedly held onto its semi-autonomous status (it is home to the world's oldest continuous parliament, the Tynwald) so as to continue doing its own thing, which really means operating as a popular tax haven.
The islanders' rejection of England's warm embrace has led to an oft-quoted prejudice that there's something odd about them, but the only thing that's odd here is the local tailless cat.
Crass commercialism and mass tourism have no place here, except of course for the world-famous summer season of Tourist Trophy (TT) motorbike racing, which attracts around 50,000 punters and bike freaks every May and June, bringing noise and mayhem to the otherwise lush valleys, barren hills and rugged coastlines of this beautiful island. Needless to say, if you want a slice of silence, be sure to avoid the high-rev bike fest.
2Activities
With plenty of great marked trails, the Isle of Man is a firm favourite with walkers and is regularly voted one of the best walking destinations in Britain. Ordnance Survey (OS) Landranger Map 95 (£6.99) covers the whole island, while the free Walks on the Isle of Man is available from the tourist office in Douglas. The Millennium Way is a walking path that runs the length of the island amid some spectacular scenery. The most demanding of all the island's walks is the 95-mile Raad ny Foillan (Road of the Gull), a well-marked path that makes a complete circuit of the island and normally takes about five days to complete. The Isle of Man Walking Festival (www.iomevents.com; hmid-May) takes place over five days in May.
The island has six designated off-road mountain-biking trails, each with varying ranges of difficulty. See www.visitisleofman.com for details.
8Information
Most of the island's historic sites are operated by Manx Heritage, which offers free admission for National Trust or English Heritage members. Unless otherwise indicated, Manx Heritage (www.manxnationalheritage.im) sites are open 10am to 5pm daily, from Easter to October. The Manx Heritage Holiday Pass (www.manxheritageshop.com; adult/child £20/10) grants you entry to all nine of the island's heritage attractions; pick it up at any of the tourist offices or online.
You can also check out www.iomevents.com for listings of what's on in the Isle of Man, along with accommodation and other tourist information.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Ronaldsway Airport (www.iom-airport.com) is 10 miles south of Douglas near Castletown. Airlines that service the region:
CitywingAIRLINE
(www.citywing.com; from £50)
From Belfast, Blackpool, Leeds-Bradford, Gloucester M5, Newcastle and East Midlands.
Flybe
(www.flybe.com; from £21)
From Birmingham, Bristol, Jersey, London Gatwick, Luton, Liverpool, Manchester, Glasgow and Edinburgh.
Boat
Isle of Man Steam PacketFERRY
(www.steam-packet.com; foot passenger single/return £22/40, car & 2 passengers return from £115)
Isle of Man Steam Packet is a car ferry and high-speed catamaran service from Liverpool and Heysham to Douglas. There is also a summer service (mid-April to mid-September) to Dublin (three hours) and Belfast (three hours). It's usually cheaper to buy a return ticket than to pay the single fare.
8Getting Around
Buses link the airport with Douglas every 30 minutes between 7am and 11pm; a taxi should cost you no more than £18.
The island has a comprehensive bus service (www.gov.im); the tourist office in Douglas has timetables and sells tickets. It also sells the Island Explorer (1-day adult/child £16/8, 3-day £32/16), which gives you unlimited public transport use, including the tram to Snaefell and Douglas' horse-trams.
Bikes can be hired from Eurocycles (www.eurocycles.co.im; 8 Victoria Rd; per day £14-20; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat).
Petrolheads will love the scenic, sweeping bends that make for some exciting driving – and the fact that outside of Douglas town there's no speed limit. Naturally, the most popular drive is along the TT route. Car-hire operators have desks at the airport, and charge from around £38 per day.
The 19th-century electric and steam rail services (%01624-663366; www.iombusandrail.info; hMar-Oct) are a thoroughly satisfying way of getting from A to B:
ADouglas–Castletown–Port Erin Steam Train (return £10.80)
ADouglas–Laxey–Ramsey Electric Tramway (return £10.80)
ALaxey–Summit Snaefell Mountain Railway (return £10.80)
Douglas
Pop 28,940
Much like Blackpool across the water, Douglas' heyday was in the middle of the 19th century, when it was a favourite destination for Victorian mass tourism. It's not nearly as popular – or as pretty – today, but it still has the best of the island's hotels and restaurants – as well as the bulk of the finance houses that are frequented so regularly by tax-allergic Brits.
The Manx Museum (www.gov.im/mnh; Kingswood Grove; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) gives an introduction to everything from the island's prehistoric past to the latest TT race winners.
4Sleeping
The seafront promenade is crammed with B&Bs. Unless you booked back at the beginning of the millennium, however, there's little chance of finding accommodation during TT week and the weeks either side of it. The tourist office's camping information sheet lists sites all around the island.
Sefton HotelHOTEL
(%01624-645500; www.seftonhotel.co.im; Harris Promenade; r from £70; pW)
Douglas' best hotel is an upmarket oasis with its own indoor water garden and rooms that range from plain and comfy to elegant and very luxurious. The rooms overlooking the water garden are superb, even better than the ones with sea views. Save up to 10% by booking online.
Admiral HouseB&B
(%01624-629551; www.admiralhouse.com; Loch Promenade; s/d from £60/75; pW)
This elegant guesthouse overlooks the harbour near the ferry port. The 23 spotless and modern rooms are a cheerful alternative to the worn look of a lot of other seafront B&Bs.
Palace HotelHOTEL
(%01624-662662; www.palacehotel.co.im; Central Promenade; r from £75; pi
s)
Tidy, modern rooms, a small gym and a casino – a Best Western hotel that takes care of your every need.
5Eating & Drinking
There are a few good drinking spots around, including Bar George (www.bargeorge.im; St George's Chambers, 3 Hill St), an elegant option for a glass of wine, and Rover's Return (11 Church St), which specialises in the local brew, Bushy Ales.
14NorthMEDITERRANEAN
(%01624-664414; www.14north.im; mains £14-21; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Mon-Sat)
An old timber merchant's house is now home to this smart eatery serving North African–style flatbreads (basically gourmet pizzas with a variety of toppings) and a selection of fish and meat dishes.
TanroaganSEAFOOD
(%01624-472411; www.tanroagan.co.uk; 9 Ridgeway St; mains £19-31; hnoon-2pm & 6.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat)
The place for all things from the sea, this elegant eatery is Douglas' smartest. It serves fresh fish straight off the boats, giving them the merest of Continental twists or just a spell on the hot grill. Reservations are recommended.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%01624-686766; www.visitisleofman.com; Sea Terminal Bldg; h9.15am-7pm May-Sep, closed Sun Oct-Apr)
Makes free accommodation bookings.
Around Douglas
You can follow the TT circuit up and over the mountain or wind around the coast. The mountain route goes close to the summit of Snaefell (621m), the island's highest point. It's an easy walk up to the summit, or take the electric tram from Laxey, near the coast.
On the edge of Ramsey, on the north of the island, is the Grove Museum of Victorian Life (MH; Andreas Rd; admission £5; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct), where you can see the summer home of a well-to-do family preserved in aspic – and learn what it was like to be a scullery maid! The church in the small village of Maughold is on the site of an ancient monastery; a small shelter houses quite a good selection of stone crosses and ancient inscriptions.
It's no exaggeration to describe the Lady Isabella Laxey Wheel (MH; Mines Rd, Laxey; admission £5; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct), built in 1854 to pump water from a mine, as a 'great' wheel: it measures 22m across and can draw 1140L of water per minute from a depth of 550m. The largest wheel of its kind in the world, it's named after the wife of the then lieutenant-governor.
The wheel-headed cross at Lonan Old Church, just north of Douglas, is the island's most impressive early Christian cross.
Castletown & Around
At the southern end of the island is Castletown, a quiet harbour town that was originally the capital of the Isle of Man. The town is dominated by the impressive 13th-century Castle Rushen (MH; Castletown Sq; admission £6; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct). The flag tower affords fine views of the town and coast. There's also a small Nautical Museum (MH; Bridge St; admission £5; h10am-5pm Easter-Oct) displaying, among other things, its pride and joy, Peggy, a boat built in 1791 and still housed in its original boathouse. There is a school dating back to 1570 in St Mary's Church (MH; h10am-5pm Mar-Nov), behind the castle.
The Garrison Tapas Bar (www.thegarrison.co.im; 5 Castle St; tapas £7-8; h10am-4pm Mon, to 9pm Tue-Sat) brings Iberian flavour to a handsome 17th-century building in the town centre. The paella is fantastic and huge, so is best shared.
Between Castletown and Cregneash, the Iron Age hill fort at Chapel Hill encloses a Viking ship burial site.
On the southern tip of the island, the Cregneash Village Folk Museum (MH; admission £5; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) recalls traditional Manx rural life. The Calf of Man, the small island just off Cregneash, is a bird sanctuary. Calf Island Cruises (%01624-832339; adult/child £14/7; h10.15am, 11.30am & 1.30pm Apr-Oct, weather permitting) run between Port Erin and the island.
Port Erin & Port St Mary
Port Erin, another Victorian seaside resort, plays host to the small Railway Museum (Station Rd; adult/child £2/1; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct), which reveals the history of steam railway on the island.
Port Erin has a good range of accommodation, as does Port St Mary, across the headland and linked by steam train. The Victorian Falcon's Nest Hotel (%01624-834077; www.falconsnesthotel.co.uk; Station Rd, Port Erin; d from £80; W), once supremely elegant, is now just handsome in a nostalgic sort of way. The rooms aren't noteworthy, but the views over the water are superb. The slightly more splendid Victorian-style Aaron House (%01624-835702; www.aaronhouse.co.uk; The Promenade, Port St Mary; s/d from £38/70) is a B&B that has fussed over every detail, from the gorgeous brass beds and claw-foot baths to the old-fashioned photographs on the walls. The sea views are also sensational.
Peel & Around
The west coast's most appealing town has a fine sandy beach, but its real attraction is the 11th-century Peel Castle (MH; admission £5; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct), stunningly positioned atop St Patrick's Island and joined to Peel by a causeway.
The House of Manannan (MH; admission £6; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) museum uses interactive displays to explain Manx history and its seafaring traditions.
Three miles east of Peel is Tynwald Hill at St John's, where the annual parliamentary ceremony takes place on 5 July.
Peel has several B&Bs, including the Fernleigh Hotel (%01624-842435; www.isleofman-bedandbreakfast.com; Marine Pde; d from £72; hFeb-Nov), which has 12 decent bedrooms. For a better-than-average bite, head for the Creek Inn (%01624-842216; www.thecreekinn.co.uk; East Quay; mains around £8, r from £35; h10am-11pm), opposite the House of Manannan, which serves Manx queenies (scallops served with white cheese sauce).
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