Elterwater & Great Langdale
Travelling north from Coniston, the road passes into the wild, empty landscape of Great Langdale, one of Lakeland's iconic hiking valleys. As you pass the pretty village of Elterwater, imposing fells stack up like dominoes along the horizon, looming over a pastoral patchwork of tumbledown barns and lime-green fields.
Langdale's best-known hike is the multipeak route up and over the Langdale Pikes: Pike O' Stickle (709m), Loft Crag (682m), Harrison Stickle (736m) and Pavey Ark (700m). Across the valley are the rippled summits of Bowfell (902m) and the Crinkle Crags, which represent a serious challenge even for experienced walkers.
4Sleeping
Great Langdale CampsiteCAMPSITE
(NT; 
%015394-63862; www.ntlakescampsites.org.uk; tent sites £10.50-13, extra adult £6, pods £35-50; 
harrivals 3-7pm Sat-Thu, 3-9pm Fri; 
p)
Quite possibly the most spectacularly positioned campsite in the Lake District, spread out over grassy meadows overlooked by Langdale's fells. It gets crowded in season, but around three-quarters of the sites can be booked in advance; the remainder are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Camping pods and yurts are also available.
Langdale YHAHOSTEL
(%0845-371 9748; langdale@yha.org.uk; High Close, Loughrigg; dm £15-21; hreception 7-10am & 5-10.15pm Mar-Oct; p
i)
Large hostel in a grand Victorian house on the road towards Grasmere. It's a rambling old affair, with big rooms, high ceilings and a huge communal lounge.
Elterwater YHAHOSTEL
(%0845-371 9017; elterwater@yha.org.uk; dm £15-21; hreception 7.30-10am & 5-10.30pm Easter-Oct; i)
A pleasant hostel in a former farmhouse, just a stone's throw from Elterwater's village green.
oOld Dungeon GhyllHOTEL
(%015394-37272; www.odg.co.uk; d from £106, half-board £156; p
W
#)
Affectionately known as the ODG, this historic inn is awash with Lakeland heritage: many famous walkers have stayed here, including Prince Charles and mountaineer Chris Bonington. It's endearingly olde-worlde (well-worn furniture, four-poster beds), and even if you're not staying, the Hiker's Bar is a must for a post-hike pint – it's been the hub of Langdale's social life for decades.
oEltermere InnHOTEL
(%015394-37207; www.eltermere.co.uk; r £125-225)
Lovingly refurbished by hoteliers Mark and Ruth Jones, this Elterwater inn is one of Lakeland's loveliest backwater bolt-holes. Rooms are simple and classic, tastefully decorated in fawns and taupes, with quirky features such as window seats and free-standing tubs. The food's excellent, too, served in the inn's snug bar, and afternoon tea is served on the lawn on sunny days.
Brimstone HotelHOTEL
(%015394-38062; www.brimstonehotel.co.uk; Langdale Estate; r £200-300)
This lavish cottage complex on the Langdale Estate takes luxury to another level. The huge suites are more London-chic than Lakeland-cosy; mezzanine floors, sleek tiles, private patios and futuristic log-burners are standard, and then of course there's a reading room, spa, restaurant and private woodland.
5Eating
Stickle BarnPUB
(%015394-37356; mains £6-12)
A walkers' fave, this lively pub near the ODG serves filling food such as curries, chillies and hotpots.
Chesters by the RiverCAFE
(%015394-32553; www.chestersbytheriver.co.uk; lunch mains £8-14; h10am-5pm)
A fine riverside cafe handily placed between Ambleside and Elterwater, serving gastro-gourmet grub and superb cakes. There's a gift shop, too, and you can pick up slate souvenirs from the workshop around the corner.
8Getting There & Away
Bus 516 (seven daily) is the only bus, with stops at Ambleside, Skelwith Bridge, Elterwater, and the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in Great Langdale. Fares from Ambleside are £3.60 to all destinations.
Wasdale
Carving its way for 5 miles from the Cumbrian coast, the craggy, wind-lashed valley of Wasdale is where the Lake District scenery takes a turn for the wild. Ground out by a long-extinct glacier, the valley is home to the Lake District's highest and wildest peaks, as well as the steely grey expanse of Wastwater, England's deepest and coldest lake.
Wasdale's fells are an irresistible draw for hikers, especially those looking to conquer England's tallest mountain, Scafell Pike (978m). The classic route starts from Wasdale Head and is well within the reach of most walkers, although it's long, steep and hard to navigate in bad weather. You're looking at around six to seven hours out on the mountain, so you'll need proper supplies.
The valley is also home to one of England's tiniest chapels, 16th-century St Olaf's Church. Legend claims the roof beams were salvaged from a Viking longboat.
The Barn Door Shop (%019467-26384; www.wasdaleweb.com), next door to the Wasdale Head Inn, sells camping and walking supplies.
4Sleeping
Wasdale Head CampsiteCAMPSITE
(NT; %bookings 015394-63862; www.ntlakescampsites.org.uk; sites £10.50-13, extra adult £6, pods £35-50; hreception 8-10.30am Mon-Fri, 8-10.30am & 5-6.30pm Sat & Sun)
This NT campsite is in a fantastically wild spot, nestled beneath the Scafell range. Facilities are basic (laundry room, showers), but the views are out of this world.
Wastwater YHAHOSTEL
(%0845-371 9350; wasdale@yha.org.uk; Wasdale Hall, Nether Wasdale; dm £18-23; hreception 8-10am & 5-10.30pm; p)
This lakeside hostel on the shores of Wastwater has the kind of location you'd normally pay through the nose for. It's in a 19th-century mansion that still boasts most of its period architecture, including original roof trusses and latticed windows. It has the usual self-catering facilities plus a decent restaurant.
oWasdale Head InnB&B
(%019467-26229; www.wasdale.com; s £59, d £118-130, tr £177; p)
Hunkering beneath the brooding bulk of Scafell Pike, this 19th-century hostelry is full of hill-walking heritage. It's wonderfully old-fashioned, covered in vintage photos and climbing memorabilia. The rooms are cosy, with roomier suites in a converted stable. The wood-panelled dining room serves fine food, with humbler grub and ales from the Great Gable Brewing Co available in Ritson's Bar.
8Getting There & Away
There are no longer any scheduled bus services to Wasdale Head, but you could order a taxi from Gosforth Taxis (%01946-734800).
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
ENNERDALE
If you really want to leave the outside world behind, the remote valley of Ennerdale is definitely the place. Just to the north of Wasdale, this valley and its namesake lake was once home to slate mines and large timber plantations, but these are slowly being removed and the valley is being returned to nature as part of the Wild Ennerdale project (www.wildennerdale.co.uk).
Needless to say, the valley is paradise if you prefer your trails quiet. Several popular routes head over the fells to Wasdale, while walking towards Buttermere takes you past the Black Sail YHA (%0845 371 9680; www.yha.org.uk/hostel/black-sail; dm £20.50-22.50), a marvellously remote hostel inside a shepherd's bothy. Much-loved by mountaineers and hikers, it's become a YHA landmark. and has recently been kitted out with solar panels, LED lighting and double glazing at a cost of around £260,000. Space is very limited, so make sure you book ahead.
Cockermouth
Pop 9146
Set along the River Cocker, the Georgian town of Cockermouth is best known as the birthplace of William Wordsworth and the home base of the renowned Jenning's Brewery, but hit the headlines in 2009 when the town suffered serious flooding. Since then, Cockermouth's elegant streets have been restored, and the town makes an interesting detour from the better-known and busier Lakeland towns.
1Sights
oWordsworth HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(NT;
GOOGLE MAP
; %01900-824805; Main St; adult/child £6.70/3.35; h11am-5pm Sat-Thu Mar-Oct)
William Wordsworth was born on 7 April 1770 at this handsome Georgian house at the end of Main St. Built around 1745, the house has been restored based on accounts from the Wordsworth archive. Costumed guides help bring the house to life.
The kitchen garden (mentioned in Wordsworth's autobiographical poem The Prelude) was badly damaged during the floods, but has since been carefully replanted.
Jenning's BreweryBREWERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01900-821011; www.jenningsbrewery.co.uk; adult/child £8/4.50; hguided tours noon & 2pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, fewer in winter)
Real ale aficionados will be well familiar with the name of Jenning's, a renowned brewery that's been in business since 1874. It's possible to take a guided tour to see the brewing process, followed by a tasting session in the Old Cooperage Bar. Take your pick from golden Cocker Hoop, classic Bitter and the superbly named Sneck Lifter. Children must be over 12.
4Sleeping
Six CastlegateB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01900-826749; www.sixcastlegate.co.uk; 6 Castlegate; s £45-50, d £70-80; W)
A Grade II–listed town house combining Georgian heritage with a modern twist, and feathery pillows, lofty ceilings and shiny showers in all six rooms.
Croft HouseB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01900-827533; www.croft-guesthouse.com; 6/8 Challoner St; s £50, d £70-80; W)
This swish lemon-yellow B&B offers rooms in a Georgian house, all with exposed stone and reclaimed maple-wood floors.
5Eating & Drinking
MeriendaCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 7a Station St; mains £4-8; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
The town's best bet for lunch, this bright cafe serves fresh soups and open-face sandwiches.
Quince & MedlarVEGETARIAN
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.quinceandmedlar.co.uk; 13 Castlegate; mains £13.95; h7-10pm Tue-Sat; 
v)
S
Imaginative veggie food served in the refined surrounds of one of Castlegate's Georgian houses, complete with panelled walls and flickering candles. Even committed carnivores will be tempted by the creative creations. Butternut squash layered with spiced ginger and cumin quinoa, anyone?
Honest LawyerBISTRO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01900-824888; 2 Main St; 2-course meal £18.95; h5.30-9.30pm)
Tucked away by the river, this attractive bistro specialises in French-Italian fusion: grilled sea bass with scallops with sauce vierge, perhaps, or supreme of duck with pommes Anna. There's a range of veggie options too. They can usually squeeze you in even at the busiest of times.
Bitter EndPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01900-828993; www.bitterend.co.uk; 15 Kirkgate; mains £10-15; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm)
This well-regarded brewpub produces its own award-winning beers such as Cockermouth Pride, Lakeland Honey Beer and Cuddy Lugs. You can watch the vats at work through a glass partition in the bar.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01900-822634; cockermouthtic@co-net.com; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat.)
Inside the town hall.
8Getting There & Away
Bus X4/X5 (half-hourly Monday to Saturday, hourly Sunday) travels from Penrith to Keswick and Cockermouth (£6.40), and Workington (£7.60, 1¼ hours).
Keswick
Pop 4821
The most northerly of the Lake District's major towns, Keswick has perhaps the most beautiful location of all: encircled by cloud-capped fells and nestled alongside the idyllic, island-studded lake of Derwentwater, a silvery curve criss-crossed by puttering cruise boats. It's also brilliantly positioned for further adventures into the nearby valleys of Borrowdale and Buttermere.
THE BASSENTHWAITE OSPREYS
In 2001 the first wild ospreys to breed in England for 150 years set up home at Bassenthwaite Lake, near Keswick. Over the last few years, the birds have usually arrived at Bassenthwaite in April, spending the summer at the lake before heading for Africa in late August or early September.
There are two official viewpoints, both in Dodd Wood, about 3 miles north of Keswick on the A591 (follow signs for Dodd Wood and Cattle Inn). The lower hide (open 10am to 5pm) is about 15 minutes' walk from the car park at Mirehouse, and the new upper hide (open 10.30am to 4.30pm) is half an hour further. Find out more at www.ospreywatch.co.uk.
1Sights
The heart of Keswick is the old Market Place, in the shadow of the town's former prison and meeting rooms at the Moot Hall (now occupied by the tourist office). Keswick's oddball museum is still closed for refurbishment; ask at the tourist office for the latest news.
Castlerigg Stone CircleMONUMENT
F
Set on a hilltop a mile east of town, this jaw-dropping stone circle consists of 48 stones that are between 3000 and 4000 years old, surrounded by a dramatic ring of mountain peaks.
Pencil MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.pencilmuseum.co.uk; Southy Works; adult/child £4.25/3.25; h9.30am-5pm)
Vying for top spot in Cumbria's weirdest museum chart, this pencil-themed museum's exhibits include the world's longest pencil (8m from end to end) and a replica of a Borrowdale slate mine. There is method in the madness, though – when graphite was discovered in the Borrowdale fells during the 17th century, Keswick became one of the world's main pencil producers. You can buy luxury Derwent colouring pencils in the shop.
Whinlatter Forest ParkFOREST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.forestry.gov.uk/whinlatter)F
Encompassing 1200 hectares of pine, larch and spruce, Whinlatter is England's only true mountain forest, rising sharply to 790m about 5 miles from Keswick. The forest is a designated red squirrel reserve; you can check out live video feeds from squirrel cams at the visitor centre (%01768-778469; h10am-4pm).
It's also home to two exciting mountain-bike trails and the Go Ape (www.goape.co.uk/days-out/whinlatter; adult/child £30/25; h9am- 5pm mid-Mar–Oct) tree-top assault course. You can hire bikes from Cyclewise (%017687-78711; www.cyclewise.co.uk; h10am-5pm), next to the visitor centre.
Entry to the forest is free, but you have to pay for parking. Bus 77 (four daily) runs from Keswick, or if you're driving, head west on the A66 and look out for the brown signs near Braithwaite.
2Activities
Keswick has a wealth of fantastic walks on its doorstep. The most popular is the family-friendly fell of Catbells (451m), on the lake's west side; the trailhead starts next to the jetty at Hawse End, served by the Keswick Launch. There's also an easy trail along the old railway path to Threlkeld.
Hardcore hikers will prefer the more challenging slog up Skiddaw (931m), the huge mountain that looms on Keswick's northern skyline. Alternatively, near Threlkeld is the lonely fell of Blencathra (868m), which was recently put up for sale by the Earl of Lonsdale with a price tag of £1.75 million.
Keswick LaunchBOATING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-72263; www.keswick-launch.co.uk; round-the-lake adult/child £9.25/4.50)
Said to have been Beatrix Potter's favourite lake (she's supposed to have got the idea for Squirrel Nutkin while watching red squirrels on the shoreline), Derwentwater is certainly a real beauty. As always, the best way to appreciate its charms is by getting out on the water. There are six daily boats from March to November, with a couple of extra afternoon sailings and a twilight cruise in summer, dropping to just a couple of sailings a day in winter.
Apart from the main jetties in Keswick, the lake's other landing stages are at Ashness Gate, Lodore Falls, High Brandlehow, Low Brandlehow, Hawse End and Nichol End. Departures run clockwise and anticlockwise. Rowboats and motorboats can be hired next to the launch jetties.
zFestivals & Events
Keswick Mountain FestivalOUTDOORS
(www.keswickmountainfestival.co.uk)
This May festival celebrates all things mountainous.
Keswick Beer FestivalBEER
(www.keswickbeerfestival.co.uk)
Lots and lots of beer is drunk during Keswick's real ale fest in June.
4Sleeping
Keswick is crammed with good-value B&Bs, especially around Stanger and Helvellyn Sts.
Keswick YHAHOSTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0845-371 9746; keswick@yha.org.uk; Station Rd; dm £13-21; i)
Keswick's YHA is a beauty, lodged inside a converted woollen mill by the clattering River Rothay, and renovated thanks to the benevolence of a generous doctor. Dorms are cosy, there's an excellent cafe, and some rooms even have balconies over Fitz Park.
oHowe KeldB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-72417; www.howekeld.co.uk; 5-7 The Heads; s £58, d £110-130; pW)
This gold-standard B&B pulls out all the stops: goose-down duvets, slate-floored bathrooms, chic colours and locally made furniture. The best rooms have views across Crow Park and the golf course, and the breakfast is a pick-and-mix delight. Free parking is available on the Heads if there's space.
Linnett HillB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-44518; www.linnetthillkeswick.co.uk; 4 Penrith Rd; s £45, d £80; W)
Much recommended by travellers, this lovingly run B&B has lots going for it: crisp white rooms, a great location near Fitz Park and keen prices that stay the same year-round. Breakfast is good too: there's a blackboard of specials to choose from, and the dining room has gingham-check tablecloths and a crackling woodburner.
Oakthwaite HouseB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-72398; www.oakthwaite-keswick.com; 35 Helvellyn St; d £76-90; W)
One of the top choices in the B&B-heavy neighbourhood around Helvellyn St. There are just four rooms (so it's not too crowded), all with power showers, white linen and soothingly neutral tones. Rooms 4 and 5 are up in the eaves, while Room 2 is the most spacious, with views of Walla Crag.
oCottage in the WoodHOTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01768-778409; www.thecottageinthewood.co.uk; Braithwaite; d £110-190; hrestaurant 6.30-9pm Tue-Sat)
For a secluded spoil, this out-of-the-way hotel is a real find. It's on the way to Whinlatter Forest, in a 17th-century coaching inn that's been thoroughly modernised. Elegant rooms survey woods and countryside: the Mountain View rooms overlook the Skiddaw Range, but we liked the super-private Attic Suite and Garden Room, with its wood floors and wet-room. The restaurant's fantastic, too.
5Eating & Drinking
Abraham's Tea RoomsCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 2 Borrowdale Rd; mains £6-10; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun)
On the top floor of George Fishers, in the former photography studio of the Abraham brothers, this cosy cafe is great for a country lunch: hot rarebit (toasted-cheese-on-toast), mackerel paté or a classic baked spud.
Lakeland Pedlar Wholefood CafeCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lakelandpedlar.co.uk; Hendersons Yard; mains £4-10; h9am-5pm)S
Down a narrow side alley off the high street, this veggie-organic-wholefood emporium is a hallowed destination for hikers and bikers, renowned for its chunky sandwiches, homemade soups and enormous cakes. There's a bike shop upstairs.
Bryson'sCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 42 Main St; cakes £2-5; h8.30am-5.30pm)
An old-fashioned bakery known for its fruitcakes, Battenbergs and Florentines.
Pumpkin CafeCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 19 Lake Rd; lunches £3-6; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Metropolitan cafe culture comes to Keswick: order a make-your-own salad or a deli sandwich, followed by a fresh-baked croissant and a flat white. There's seating upstairs, or you can order to go.
oPheasant InnPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-72219; www.the-pheasant.co.uk; Bassenthwaite; mains £14-18; hrestaurant 7-9pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun; bistro noon-4.30pm & 6-9pm)
A short drive along Bassenthwaite Lake is this fine dining pub. Hunting prints and pewter tankards cover the old bar, stocked with vintage whiskies and Lakeland ales, and the brace of restaurants (informal bistro and smart restaurant) both serve superior country food. The afternoon tea's done in the proper English fashion, too, complete with cucumber sandwiches.
oThe ChaletBISTRO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-72757; www.thechaletportinscale.co.uk; lunch £5-8.50, dinner £12.95-17.95; h9am-5pm Tue & Wed, 9am-5pm & 6.30-11pm Thu-Mon)
This cafe-bistro opened in 2013 in Portinscale and has fast become one of Keswick's gastronomic hot spots. The architecture blends old (wood-burners, log piles) and new (plate glass, Scandinavian minimalism), and the food's a similar blend of styles; comforting crumpets and sharing platters for lunch, sophisticated plates of confit duck and dry-aged steak for supper, all accompanied by a suggested wine. Classy.
Morrel'sBRITISH
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-72666; www.morrels.co.uk; Lake Rd; 3-course menu £21.95, mains £12.50-16.50; h5.30-9pm Tue-Sun)
Reliable bistro seving Mediterranean-influenced food. The stripped-back interior and spotlights make it feel formal, but it's actually a very relaxed affair.
Cafe-Bar 26CAFE, BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 26 Lake Rd; tapas £4-10; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun)
An attractive corner wine-bar that also serves good tapas.
Dog & GunPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 2 Lake Rd; h11am-11pm)
Benches, beams, hearths, rugs: the old Dog is the picture of a Lakeland pub. Look out for Thirst Rescue ale, which donates part of its proceeds to the Keswick Mountain rescue team.
7Shopping
George FisherOUTDOOR EQUIPMENT
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 2 Borrowdale Rd; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
Keswick has plenty of outdoor shops, but the traditionalists' choice is George Fisher, one of the Lake District's oldest outdoors suppliers. There are three floors of boots, tents and gear, and the boot-fitting service is superb.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-72645; keswicktic@lake-district.gov.uk; Moot Hall, Market Pl; h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar)
Sells discounted tickets for the Keswick Launch.
8Getting There & Away
The Keswick & Honister Dayrider (adult/child/family £8/6/22) buys unlimited travel on buses in the Keswick area.
Useful buses from Keswick:
A555/556 Lakeslink Hourly to Ambleside (£7.95, 40 minutes), Windermere (£8.55, 50 minutes) and Kendal (£9.30, 1½ hours).
A77/77A Honister Rambler Circular route (Keswick & Honister Dayrider adult/child £8/6, four daily) from Keswick via Portinscale, Catbells, Grange, Seatoller, Honister Pass, Buttermere, Lorton and Whinlatter.
A78 Borrowdale Rambler (Keswick & Honister Dayrider adult/child £8/6, at least hourly Monday to Friday, half-hourly weekends) The main Borrowdale bus, with stops at Lodore, Grange, Rosthwaite and Seatoller.
AX4/X5 Penrith to Workington via Keswick (£6.40, hourly Monday to Friday, six on Sunday).
8Getting Around
Keswick Mountain BikesBICYCLE RENTAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-75202; www.keswickmountainbikes.co.uk; 133 Main St; adult bikes per day £15-40; h9.30am-5.30pm)
Mountain bikes can be hired from Keswick Mountain Bikes. The road-specific shop is above the Lakeland Pedlar Wholefood Cafe.
2Driving Tour
Borrowdale & Buttermere
Start Keswick
End Keswick
Length 28 miles, three to four hours
This is one of the Lakes' most beautiful road trips, taking in the unspoilt scenery of the Borrowdale, Buttermere and Lorton Valleys. Begin with breakfast in 1Keswick, then head along the B5289 into Borrowdale. First stop is 2Lodore Falls, a pretty cascade at the southern end of Derwentwater. Next, detour to the little hamlet of 3Grange-in-Borrowdale, where a trail leads up the slate-strewn sides of Castle Crag, a small fell with great views over Borrowdale.
From Grange, carry on to the huge boulder known as the 4Bowder Stone, shifted into position by the glacier which carved out the Borrowdale Valley. Pootle on to 5Rosthwaite for tea and cake at the Flock-In tearoom, or continue to 6Seatoller for lunch.
In the afternoon, tackle the steep crawl up to 7Honister Pass, where you can pick up some slate souvenirs or take a mine tour. From here, the road drops down into the beautiful valley of 8Buttermere. Spot the zigzag peaks of High Stile, Haystacks and Red Pike looming on your left-hand side over the lake, stop off for a drink at the Fish Inn, and remember to pay your respects to Alfred Wainwright inside St James' Church.
Continue along the shore of Crummock Water past 9Loweswater, where you could make an optional but very worthwhile detour via the excellent Kirkstile Inn. When you reach aLow Lorton, a right-hand turn carries you over Whinlatter Pass to bWhinlatter Forest Park. The forest park makes a good spot for a late-afternoon stop; there's a pleasant cafe at the visitor centre, as well as displays on the local wildlife.
There are a couple of great options for dinner on your way back to Keswick such as the cCottage in the Wood just before Braithwaite.
Borrowdale
With their patchwork of craggy hills, broad fields, tinkling streams and drystone walls, the side-by-side valleys of Borrowdale and Buttermere are many people's idea of the quintessential Lakeland landscape. Once a centre for mineral mining (especially for slate, coal and graphite), this is walkers' country these days, and apart from the odd rickety barn or puttering tractor, there's precious little to spoil the view.
South of Keswick, the B5289 tracks Derwentwater into the heart of Borrowdale, winding past the small farming villages of Grange-in-Borrowdale, Rosthwaite and Stonethwaite.
1Sights & Activities
Lodore FallsWATERFALL
At the southern end of Derwentwater, this famous waterfall featured in a poem by Robert Southey, but it's only worth visiting after a good spell of rain. It's in the grounds of the Lodore Hotel; there's an honesty box for donations.
Bowder StoneOUTDOORS
A mile south from Grange, a turn-off leads up to the geological curiosity known as the Bowder Stone, a 1696-tonne lump of rock left behind by a retreating glacier. A small stepladder leads up to the top of the rock.
Watendlath TarnLAKE
This National Trust–owned tarn is reached via a turn-off on the B5285 south of Keswick. On the way, the road passes over one of the Lake District's most photographed packhorse crossings at Ashness Bridge. Parking at the tarn is free for NT members, but the road is narrow and has few passing places, so it's more pleasant to walk up in summer.
Platty+BOATING
(%017687-76572; www.plattyplus.co.uk; kayaks & canoes per hr £8-15)
Based at the Lodore Boat Landings, this company hires out kayaks, canoes and sailing dinghies, and runs instruction courses.
4Sleeping
Derwentwater Independent HostelHOSTEL
(%017687-77246; www.derwentwater.org; Barrow House; dm £19-21, r from £66; pi)
Built as a 19th-century mansion for the local notable George Pocklington, this grand hostel was previously YHA-owned, but it's now independently run and offers clean, basic dorms (most have four to eight beds, but one has 22 beds) plus self-catering facilities. The house still has many of its original architectural features, and sits in 7-hectare grounds complete with waterfall.
Borrowdale YHAHOSTEL
(%0845-371 9624; borrowdale@yha.org.uk; Longthwaite; dm from £19-23; hFeb-Dec)
Purpose-built chalet hostel, specialising in walking and activity trips.
Langstrath InnB&B
(%017687-77239; www.thelangstrath.com; Stonethwaite; d £100-128, mains from £11.30; hrestaurant noon-10.30pm Tue-Sun; pW)
Borrowdale's country hotels are expensive, so you'll be better off basing yourself at this out-of-the-way inn in Stonethwaite. The eight rooms feature white walls, crimson throws and pleasant en suites, and the countryside views are to die for. Hearty food and beers from Hawkshead Brewery are served in the restaurant.
Seatoller HouseB&B
(%017687-77218; www.seatollerhouse.co.uk; s £55, d £90-100; p)
A tiny hideaway in Seatoller that feels like a Beatrix Potter burrow. It's tucked beneath Honister Pass and all the rooms are named after animals: attic Osprey has skylight views, Rabbit is pine-filled and Badger looks over the garden. Rooms including a four-course dinner for two cost £139.
Yew Tree FarmB&B
(%017687-77675; www.borrowdaleherdwick.co.uk; Rosthwaite; d £80; p)
There are floral patterns galore at this sturdy Cumbrian farmhouse in rural Rosthwaite, with three rooms snuggled among cob walls and tiny windows (no wi-fi or TVs!). It's run by working sheep farmers, and you'll be able to spot Herdwicks in the nearby fields. Breakfast is huge, and the Flock-In tearoom over the road serves delicious cakes and puddings.
8Getting There & Away
Buses 77/77A and 78 connect Borrowdale and Buttermere with Keswick. Get the Keswick & Honister Dayrider pass (adult/child £8/6).
Honister Pass
From Borrowdale, a narrow, perilously steep road snakes up the fellside to Honister Pass and Buttermere Valley beyond.
Overlooking the top of the pass is the Honister Slate Mine (%017687-77230; www.honister-slate-mine.co.uk; mine tour adult/child £12.50/7.50, all-day pass £34/25; htours 10.30am, 12.30pm & 3.30pm Mar-Oct), where underground tours venture deep into the bowels of the old 'Edge' and 'Kimberley' mines (a tour into the 'Cathedral' mine runs on Friday by request, but you'll need eight people and it costs £19.75).
Honister is also home to the UK's first Via Ferrata (Classic route adult/child £35/25, Xtreme £39.50/29.50), a vertiginous system of clifftop ropes and ladders once used by slate miners. It's exhilarating and great fun, but unsurprisingly you'll need a head for heights. Combination tickets are available for both activities.
A brand-new attraction opened in April 2014 combines the mining-and-climbing experience: a subterranean 'Burma Bridge', which involves clambering along underground passages on fixed ropes. It costs adult/child £19.95/14.95, and you need to be 10 or older.
Buttermere
From the high point of Honister, the road drops sharply into the deep bowl of Buttermere, skirting the lakeshore to Buttermere village, 4 miles from Honister and 9 miles from Keswick. From here, the B5289 cuts past Crummock Water before exiting the valley's northern edge.
Buttermere marks the start of Alfred Wainwright's all-time favourite circuit: up Red Pike (755m), and along High Stile (807m), High Crag and Haystacks (597m). In fact, the great man liked it so much, he stayed here for good: after his death in 1991, his ashes were scattered across the top of Haystacks as requested in his will. A small plaque in Buttermere's little chapel, St James' Church, commemorares the great man.
4Sleeping & Eating
Buttermere YHAHOSTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0845-371 9508; buttermere@yha.org.uk; dm £17-22; hreception 8.30-10am & 5-10.30pm)
A fine YHA, with a lake-view location halfway between Honister and Buttermere village.
oKirkstile InnPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01900-85219; www.kirkstile.com; mains £12-16, s £63.50-90, d £99-109)
A finer country pub you could not hope to find. Hidden away near the little lake of Loweswater, a mile or so north of Buttermere, the Kirkstile is a joy: crackling fires, oak beams, worn carpets, wooden bar and all. It's particularly known for its award-winning ales (try the Loweswater Gold). Rooms are quaint; some have views across Lorton Vale.
Fish InnPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017687-70253; www.fishinnbuttermere.co.uk; mains £8-14, d £90-110; p)
This whitewashed inn once employed the 18th-century beauty known as the 'Maid of Buttermere', but these days it's just a welcoming local's pub, serving basic staples such as lasagne and battered haddock, washed down with ales from several local breweries.
8Getting There & Away
Bus 77/77A serves Buttermere and Honister Pass from Keswick. Use the Keswick & Honister Dayrider (adult/child £8/6).
Ullswater & Around
After Windermere, the second-largest lake in the Lake District is Ullswater, stretching for 7.5 miles between Pooley Bridge, and Glenridding and Patterdale in the south. Carved out by a long-extinct glacier, the deep valley in which the lake sits is flanked by an impressive string of fells, most notably the razor ridge of Helvellyn, Cumbria's third-highest mountain at 950m.
It's also famous as the place where William Wordsworth was inspired to write his best-known poem, 'Daffodils'.
1Sights & Activities
Gowbarrow Park & Aira ForcePARK, WATERFALL
F
This rolling park stretches out across the lakeshore between Pooley Bridge and Glenridding. Well-marked paths lead up to the impressive 20m waterfall of Aira Force. Another waterfall, High Force, is further up the hillside.
South of Gowbarrow Park is Glencoyne Bay, where the springtime daffodils inspired Wordsworth to pen the immortal lines: 'I wandered lonely as a cloud/That floats on high over hills and dales/When all at once I saw a crowd/A host, of golden daffodils…'
February and March are the best months if you want to see the flowers for yourself.
Ullswater 'Steamers'BOATING
(%017684-82229; www.ullswater-steamers.co.uk; round-the-lake adult/child £13.20/6.60)
Ullswater's historic steamer service has been running since 1855. There are now four boats, all dressed in the company's distinctive livery; the stately Lady of the Lake was launched in 1888, making it the oldest passenger boat still working in the world.
The boats run east–west from Pooley Bridge, stopping at the village of Howtown on the southern shore en route to Glenridding. There are up to 11 sailings a day in summer, dropping to four in winter.
4Sleeping
Helvellyn YHAHOSTEL
(%0845-371 9742; helvellyn@yha.org.uk; Greenside; dm £13-18; hEaster-Oct)
A high-level hostel, in an old miners' cottage 275m above the valley at the end of a rough track. It's a favourite with hikers looking to get a head-start on Helvellyn; dorms are small and facilities are basic, but meals are provided by hostel staff.
Patterdale YHAHOSTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0845-371 9337; patterdale@yha.org.uk; Patterdale; dm £17-22.50; hreception 7.30-10am & 5-10.30pm Easter-Oct)
This 1970s hostel lacks the heritage of some of the Lakeland YHAs, but it has a great location by the lake and all the usual YHA trappings (kitchen, cafe, TV lounge) – as long as you don't mind the institutional architecture.
Lowthwaite FarmB&B
(%017684-82343; www.lowthwaiteullswater.com; Matterdale; d £86-90; p)
This lovely farmhouse in Matterdale is all about the good life. The owners have filled the place with souvenirs collected on their travels, such as chunky wooden beds made in Tanzania that match the house's hefty wooden beams. It's a couple of miles from the lake, off the A5091 to Dockray; ring ahead for directions, as it's tricky to find. Two-night minimum on weekends.
Old Water ViewB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017684-82175; www.oldwaterview.co.uk; Patterdale; d £72-86)
Patterdale has several B&Bs, but this one's the pick. It's a simple place focusing on the essentials: friendly service, comfy rooms and good value. The split-level Bothy room is ideal for families, with attic beds for the kids, while Little Gem overlooks a stream and Place Fell is said to have been a favourite of Alfred Wainwright.
5Eating
Traveller's RestPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Glenridding; mains £5.50-15; h10am-11pm)
Down a pint with a view of the fells at Traveller's Rest, a Glenridding stalwart. The food might be plain (steaks, pies, prawn cocktails) but the portions are huge.
FellbitesCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Glenridding; mains £5-15; h11am-8.30pm, to 5.30pm Wed)
Popular Glenridding cafe that serves a good selection of spuds, sarnies and all-day breakfasts, plus a daily roast and chunky steaks.
8Information
Ullswater Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %017684-82414; ullswatertic@lake-district.gov.uk; Glenridding; h9am-5.30pm Apr-Oct)
8Getting There & Away
The Ullswater Bus-and-Boat Combo ticket (adult/child/family £15.50/8.50/33) includes a day's travel on bus 108 with a return trip on an Ullswater Steamer; buy the ticket on the bus.
A108 Travels from Penrith to Patterdale via Pooley Bridge and Glenridding (£5.50 to £6.50, five daily Monday to Friday, four on weekends).
Kendal
Pop 28,586
Technically Kendal isn't in the Lake District, but it's a major gateway town. Often known as the 'Auld Grey Town' thanks to the sombre grey stone used for many of its buildings, Kendal is a bustling shopping centre with some good restaurants, a funky arts centre and intriguing museums. But it'll forever be synonymous in many people's minds with its famous mint cake, a staple item in the nation's hiking packs ever since Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay munched it during their ascent of Everest in 1953.
1Sights
Kendal MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.kendalmuseum.org.uk; Station Rd; h10.30am-5pm Tue-Sat)F
Founded in 1796 by the inveterate Victorian collector William Todhunter, this mixed-bag museum features everything from stuffed beasts and transfixed butterflies to medieval coin hoards. There's also a reconstruction of the office of Alfred Wainwright, who served as honorary curator at the museum from 1945 to 1974: look out for his pipe and knapsack.
Abbot Hall Art GalleryGALLERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.abbothall.org.uk; adult/child £5/free; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)
Kendal's fine art gallery houses one of the northwest's best collections of 18th- and 19th-century art. It's especially strong on portraiture and Lakeland landscapes: look out for works by Constable, John Ruskin and local boy George Romney, a key figure in the Kendal School.
Museum of Lakeland Life & IndustryMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lakelandmuseum.org.uk; adult/child £5/free; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)
Directly opposite Abbot Hall, this museum recreates various scenes from Lakeland life during the 18th and 19th centuries, including a farmhouse parlour, a Lakeland kitchen, an apothecary and the study of Arthur Ransome, author of Swallows and Amazons.
zFestivals & Events
Kendal Mountain FestivalOUTDOORS
Annual mountain-themed celebration encompassing films, books and talks in November.
4Sleeping
Crosthwaite HouseB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %015395-68264; www.crosthwaitehouse.co.uk; d £80; pW)
Zingy and zesty, this bright number has lots of imagination: the six rooms are colourfully decorated with swirly wallpapers, funky fabrics and retro furniture, and all named after a type of damson fruit. Tasty breakfast options include blueberry pancakes and huevos rancheros. It's in Crosthwaite, about 6 miles west of Kendal.
Beech HouseB&B
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01539-720385; www.beechhouse-kendal.co.uk; 40 Greenside; d £75-100; pW)
Top Kendal honours go to this extremely elegant B&B at the top of the steep hill of Beast Banks. Rooms are a prim-and-proper treat: some feature sleigh beds and fluffy cushions, others freestanding baths and comfy sofas.
5Eating
Baba GanoushDELI
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01539-738210; Finkle St; mains £5-8; h9.30am-4pm Tue-Sat)
Delicious Mediterranean-tinged food such as falafels, lamb stews, veggie mezze and Moroccan tagines are served at this super cafe-deli down a side alley.
Waterside WholefoodsCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Kent View; light meals £4-10; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)S
Kendal's veggies make a beeline for this riverside cafe, a long-standing staple for filling sandwiches, flapjacks and naughty-but-nice cakes.
1657 Chocolate HouseCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; 54 Branthwaite Brow; lunches £3-8)
A chocoholics' delight: handmade chocolates and Kendal mint cake in the basement, plus umpteen varieties of hot chocolate in the upstairs cafe.
New MoonBISTRO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01539-729254; www.newmoonrestaurant.co.uk; 129 Highgate; mains £11.95-16.95; h11.30am-2.15pm & 5.30-9pm Tue-Sat)
A good bet for a pre-theatre supper, the New Moon is one of Kendal's longest-standing bistros, strong on filling dishes spiced with Asian and African flavours. The two-course pre-7pm menu is great value at £13.50.
Grain StoreBISTRO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Highgate; pizzas £6.50-10, mains £10-16.50; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat)
The Brewery Arts Centre's restaurant does a decent line in pub grub and stone-baked pizzas.
oPunch Bowl InnPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %015395-68237; www.the-punchbowl.co.uk; Crosthwaite; mains £14.50-19.95; hnoon-4pm & 5.30-8.30pm; p)
This country inn in Crosthwaite, halfway between Kendal and Bowness, is one of the Lake District's epicurian pubs par excellence. Chef Scott Fairweather favours classic flavours, but his menu is sprinkled with cheffy ingredients such as salsify, pickled carrot, pak choi and cep purées. The elegant rooms are lovely too (£105 to £305), with reclaimed beams and Roberts Revival radios.
3Entertainment
Brewery Arts CentreTHEATRE, CINEMA
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01539-725133; www.breweryarts.co.uk; Highgate)
One of the best arts centres in the northwest, with a gallery, cafe, theatre and two cinemas, with regular live events to boot.
8Getting There & Around
The train line from Windermere runs to Kendal (£4.50, 15 minutes, hourly) en route to Oxenholme.
ABus 106 To Penrith (£4.50, 80 minutes, six to eight daily Monday to Saturday).
ABus 505 To Windermere, Ambleside, Hawkshead and Coniston (£9.30, hourly including Sundays).
ABuses 555/556 Regular bus (£8 to £9.30, half-hourly Monday to Saturday, hourly at weekends) to Windermere (30 minutes), Ambleside (40 minutes) and Grasmere (1¼ hours).
Around Kendal
The countryside around Kendal feels gentler than the dramatic fells and valleys of the rest of the Lakes. It's mainly worth visiting for its stately homes and one of the county's top farm shops.
1Sights
Sizergh CastleCASTLE
(NT; %015395-60070; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/sizergh-castle; adult/child £9.45/4.73, gardens only £5.85/2.93; hhouse 1-5pm Sun-Thu, gardens 11am-5pm daily)
Three-and-a-half miles south of Kendal along the A591, this castle is the feudal seat of the Strickland family. Set around a pele tower, its finest asset is the lavish wood panelling on display in the Great Hall. There are private house tours between noon and 1pm.
Levens HallHISTORIC BUILDING
(%015395-60321; www.levenshall.co.uk; adult/child £12.50/free, garden only £8.50/free; hhouse noon-4.30pm, gardens 10am-5pm Sun-Thu Mar-Oct)
This Elizabethan manor is built around a mid-13th-century pele tower, and fine Jacobean furniture litters the house, although the real draw is the 17th-century topiary garden: a surreal riot of pyramids, swirls, curls, pom-poms and peacocks straight out of Alice in Wonderland. It's 2 miles south from Sizergh Castle along the A6. The 555/556 bus runs past the castle gates.
7Shopping
Low Sizergh BarnFOOD
(%015395-60426; www.lowsizerghbarn.co.uk; h9am-5.30pm)
A prodigious selection of Lakeland goodies are available at this beamed farm shop, one of the Lake District's very best. Breads from Grange Bakery, meats from Mansergh Hall, cheeses from Thornby Moor Dairy and beers from the Coniston Brewery Co are just some of the gourmet treats in store. There's also a farm trail and woodland walk to follow if the weather's nice. Look out for the signs just outside Kendal on the A590.
DON'T MISS
LA'AL RATTY
oRavenglass & Eskdale RailwayHERITAGE RAILWAY
(%01229-717171; www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk; adult/child/family return £13/16.50/33)
Officially known as the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, but universally known hereabouts as La'al Ratty, this pocket-sized railway was originally built to ferry iron ore from the Eskdale mines out to the coast. These days it's one of Cumbria's most beloved family attractions, with miniature steam trains that chug for 7 miles down the Eskdale valley between the coastal town of Ravenglass and the village of Dalegarth.
Even if you're not a train nerd, it's a fabulously odd way to see the Lake District countryside. There are between seven and 14 trains a day depending on the season, and the trains stop at various stations en route.