La Isabela Bay
Set among some of the country’s most rugged countryside and bordered by magnificent beaches, La Isabela breathes history as the site of the first permanent colonial settlement in the Americas. The bay protects a placid expanse of ocean, while a pristine white beach looks much as it must have done in 1493 when Christopher Columbus decided to establish a town on this spot, named in honor of the Spanish Queen. The excavated ruins of La Isabela give a powerful impression of that decisive moment, but it is the situation as much as the archeological display that makes this place special. An adventurous trek through remote terrain is rewarded by an unforgettable insight into how the course of history was changed.
1. Museum
The park’s museum contains a compact but well-maintained display of Taino artifacts, including pottery and arrowheads. The captions are Spanish-only, but the exhibits are visually interesting and include a model of Columbus’s ship, the Santa Maria.
Parque Nacional Histórico La Isabela • Open 8am–6pm Mon–Sat • Adm US$4
2. The Settlement
Small walls of roughly hewn limestone trace the foundations of La Isabela’s structures, including what are thought to be warehouses, a chapel, a rudimentary hospital, and a watchtower.
3. Columbus’s House
On a slight bluff overlooking the site is the shell of the residence belonging to Columbus. Covered with a thatched awning, the ruin shows that he lived in a modest dwelling made of packed earth and stone.
4. Cemetery
The New World’s first Christian cemetery occupies a scenic waterside position, and is decorated by the later addition of white crosses. Both Spanish and Taino people were buried here and exhumed.
5. Parque Nacional Historico La Isabela
A protected national park gradually excavated since the 1950s, the site of the original settlement sits on a promontory; an expanse of red sand dotted with acacia trees and criss-crossed by paths that lead visitors around the architectural remains.Museum • Open 8am–6pm Mon–Sat • Free
6. Playa Isabela
The beach, where the slow-moving Bajabonico River meets the sea, is an unspoilt stretch of sand, where tiny fishing boats bob offshore. Amenities are few, so come prepared (for further details see Playa Isabela).
7. Templo de las Americas
This colonial-style church is a blend of whitewashed stone and brick, built in 1990, in time to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Columbus’s arrival. Pope John Paul II said Mass here in 1992.Templo de las Américas • Open 9am–5pm daily • Free
8. Laguna Estero Hondo
You can explore one of the region’s best-preserved mangrove forests with a boat trip through this wild lagoon. Gnarled mangrove thickets are home to many birds, and you may be fortunate enough to catch sight of a rare manatee.
9. Punta Rucia Beach
This is a long expanse of soft-white sand and limpid water, where small restaurants and shops provide cold drinks and freshly caught fish.
10. Cayo Paraiso
A tiny speck of sun-bleached circular sand-bank surrounded by coral reef and aquamarine sea, the cay can be visited on an organized tour by speedboat from Punta Rucia or the village of Castillo.Cayo Paraiso • Tours offered by tour operators such as Paraiso Tours depart from Punta Rucia on Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun • 809 320 7606 • Price US$50
Trujillo’s Blunder
La Isabela’s archeological potential was recognized by the Dominican dictator Trujillo, but when he ordered workmen to tidy up the site in 1952 they were rather too zealous and reportedly bulldozed much of the remains into the sea. Locals and souvenir-hunters have also been responsible for removing valuable artifacts.
Tip: “Official” guides from the national park office are meant to accompany visitors. They will expect a tip. Tip: The roads around La Isabela are potholed and often occupied by large herds of goats. Driving after dark is therefore not a good idea.
