1Sights
The French Quarter is full of incredible museums, historic buildings, unique views, and other fun attractions. Even better, a lot of it (such as walking Bourbon or Royal St) is completely free.
Jackson SquareSQUARE
See here.
Royal StreetSTREET
See here.
St Louis CathedralCATHEDRAL
See here.
The Historic New Orleans CollectionMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; THNOC; 
%504-523-4662; www.hnoc.org; 533 Royal St; admission free, tours $5; 
h9:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, from 10:30am Sun, tours 10am, 11am, 2pm & 3pm Tue-Sat)
A combination of preserved buildings, museums and research centers all rolled into one, The Historic New Orleans Collection is a good introduction to the history of the city. The complex is anchored by its Royal St campus, which presents a series of regularly rotating exhibits and occasional temporary exhibits. Some of the artifacts on display include an original Jazz Fest poster, transfer documents of the Louisiana Purchase, and utterly disturbing slave advertisements.
The Williams family was always considered eccentric, and the museum’s Williams Residence – purchased by the family in 1938, in what was then considered a dowdy neighborhood – is stuffed full of art and furniture collected on the Williams’ world travels. As entertaining as the tour is, even better is the introductory video, although it glosses over the source of their fortune (ie harvesting out the old-growth cypress of the Louisiana wetlands).
New Orleans Pharmacy MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-565-8027; www.pharmacymuseum.org; 514 Chartres St; adult/student/child under 10yr $5/4/free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat) 
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This beautifully preserved shop, groaning with ancient display cases filled with intriguing little bottles, was established in 1823 by Louis J Dufilho, at a time when the pharmaceutical arts were – shall we say – in their infancy. The museum suggests Dufilho was the nation’s first licensed pharmacist, although today his practices would be suspect (gold-coated pills for the wealthy; opium, alcohol and cannabis for those with less cash).
Upper Bourbon StreetAREA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; btwn Canal & Dumaine Sts)
Like Vegas and Cancun, the main stretch of Bourbon St is where the great id of the repressed American psyche is let loose into a seething mass of karaoke, strip clubs and bachelorette parties. It’s one of the tackiest experiences in the world, but it can be fun for an evening. As one T-shirt here says, ‘I’m more wasted than a liberal arts degree.’
PresbytèreMUSEUM
See here.
Ursuline ConventHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-529-3040; www.stlouiscathedral.org/convent-museum; 1112 Chartres St; adult/student $8/6; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat)
One of the few surviving French Colonial buildings in New Orleans, this lovely convent is worth a tour for its architectural virtues and its small museum of Catholic bric-a-brac. After a five-month voyage from Rouen, France, 12 Ursuline nuns arrived in New Orleans in 1727. The Ursuline had a missionary bent, but achieved their goals through advancing the literacy rate of women of all races and social levels; their school admitted French, Native American and African American girls.
Lower Bourbon StreetAREA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; btwn St Philip St & Esplanade Ave)
At St Philip St, Bourbon shifts from a Dante’s Inferno–style circle of neon-lit hell into an altogether more agreeable stretch of historical houses, diners and bars, many of which cater to the gay community. In fact, said gay bars are the loudest residents on this, the quieter, more classically New Orleans end of the street.
Harouni GalleryGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-299-4393; www.harouni.com; 933 Royal St; h11am-5pm)
Artist David Harouni, a native of Iran, has lived and worked in New Orleans for several decades. He creates works of absorbing depth by painting and scraping multiple layers of medium; the finished product has a surreal, eerie beauty.
New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old US MintMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-568-6993; www.nolajazzmuseum.org; 400 Esplanade Ave; adult/child $6/5; h10am-4:30pm Tue-Sun)
The Mint, a blocky Greek Revival structure, is the only building of its kind to have printed both US and Confederate currency. Today it is home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum, with rotating exhibits on local jazz history and culture. It also contains the Louisiana Historical Center, an archive of manuscripts, microfiche and records related to the state. New Orleans Jazz National Historic Park hosts concerts here on weekday afternoons; check in at its office to see who is playing or visit the museum’s website.
French MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-636-6400; www.frenchmarket.org; 1008 N Peters St; h9am-6pm)
This long shopping arcade was once the great bazaar and pulsing commercial heart for much of New Orleans. Today the French Market is a bustling tourist jungle of curios, flea markets, food stalls and artist kiosks, some of which sell genuinely fascinating, memorable souvenirs, and some of which sell alligator heads, belt buckles and sunglasses. Whether it’s kitch or catch, you can find it here, often with live musical accompaniment. Events sometimes keep the market open later in the evenings.
Following cycles of fire and storm, the market has been built and rebuilt by the Spanish, French and Works Progress Administration (WPA). These days it’s a large, several-block-long area, some of it tented, some of it covered by a permanent shelter. A new stairway leads down to the riverfront.
Beauregard-Keyes HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-7257; www.bkhouse.org; 1113 Chartres St; tours adult/student/child $10/4/9; htours hourly 10am-3pm Mon-Sat)
This 1826 Greek Revival house is named for its two most famous former inhabitants. Confederate General Pierre Gustave Toutant Beauregard commanded the artillery battery that fired the first shots at Fort Sumter in Charleston, SC, starting the Civil War. Frances Parkinson Keyes wrote 51 novels, many set in New Orleans (and many that had, let’s say, not the most sympathetic depictions of African Americans, Jews, Italians and the Irish). Her collection of some 200 dolls and folk costumes are on display.
The home itself is drop-dead gorgeous – a classic French Quarter center-hall mansion that drips with historic beauty. Frequent events such as weddings are held here.
Gallier House MuseumHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-274-0746; www.hgghh.org; 1132 Royal St; adult/student & senior $15/12, combined with Hermann-Grima House $25/20; htours hourly 10am-3pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, noon-3pm Sat)
Many New Orleans buildings owe their existence, either directly or by design, to James Gallier Sr and Jr, who added Greek Revivalist, British and American accents to the Quarter’s French, Spanish and Creole architectural mélange. In 1857, Gallier Jr began work on this town house, which incorporates all of the above elements. The period furniture is lovely; not so much are the intact slave quarters out back – once you see these, you’ll recognize them throughout the French Quarter.
Hermann-Grima HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-274-0746; www.hgghh.org; 820 St Louis St; tours adult/student & senior $15/12, combined with Gallier House Museum $25/20; htours hourly 10am-3pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, noon-3pm Sat)
Samuel Hermann, a Jewish merchant who married a Catholic woman, introduced the American-style Federal design to the Quarter in 1831. Hermann sold the house in 1844 to slaveholder Judge Grima after Hermann reportedly lost $2 million during the national financial panic of 1837. Cooking demonstrations in the open-hearth kitchen are a special treat on alternate Thursdays from October to May.
1850 House MuseumHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-568-6968; http://louisianastatemuseum.org; 523 St Ann St; adult/child $3/free, senior & student $2; h10am-4:30pm Tue-Sun)
The 1850 House is one of the apartments in the lower Pontalba Building. Madame Micaëla Pontalba, aristocratic daughter of Don Andrés Almonaster y Roxas, built these long rows of red-brick apartments flanking the upper and lower portions of Jackson Sq. Today, volunteers from the Friends of the Cabildo give tours of the apartment (every 45 minutes or so, assuming docents are available), which includes the central court and servants’ quarters. There are period furnishings throughout. A self-guided tour is fine too.
Hemmerling Gallery of Southern ArtGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-524-0909; 733 Royal St; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
William ‘Bill’ Hemmerling was a self-taught folk artist who incorporated wood, debris and found objects into a powerfully vital body of work. This gallery displays his originals, as well as art by other folk painters and sculptors whose work demonstrates much of the same raw energy.
Museum of DeathMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-593-3968; http://museumofdeath.net; 227 Dauphine St; cash/credit card $15/16; h10am-7pm)
If death is your thing, or you have an interest in serial killers, the Museum of Death will not disappoint. Starting with skulls (both animal and human) and moving on to various death-related topics, such as cannibalism, shrunken heads, morticians’ instruments, disastrous events (the massacre in El Salvador etc), and even a how-to autopsy video, this is a smorgasbord of any and all things related to kicking the bucket.
Historic Voodoo MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-680-0128; www.voodoomuseum.com; 724 Dumaine St; $7; h10am-6pm)
Of the (many) voodoo-themed spots in the French Quarter, this one is a favorite. The narrow corridors and dark rooms, stuffed with statues, dolls and paintings, are something approaching spooky, and the information placards (seemingly written by anthropology dissertation students with too much time on their hands) are genuinely informative.
Michalopoulos GalleryGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-558-0505; www.michalopoulos.com; 617 Bienville St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun)
Michalopoulos has become one of New Orleans’ most popular painters in recent years, in part on the strength of his best-selling Jazz Fest posters. His shop showcases his colorful and expressive architectural studies and paintings that look like Van Gogh meets the Vieux Carré. Visit the website or call ahead to confirm hours and check on upcoming events.
A Gallery for Fine PhotographyGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-568-1313; www.agallery.com; 241 Chartres St; h10:30am-5:30pm Mon & Thu-Sat, noon-5pm Sun, by appointment Tue & Wed)
This impressive gallery usually has prints such as William Henry Jackson’s early-20th-century views of New Orleans and EJ Bellocq’s rare images of Storyville prostitutes, made from the photographers’ original glass plates. The gallery also regularly features Herman Leonard’s shots of Duke Ellington and other jazz legends, as well as the occasional Cartier-Bresson enlargement (available at second-mortgage prices).
Lucky RoseGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-309-8000; http://cathyrose.com; 840 Royal St; h11am-5pm Thu-Mon)
Cathy Rose blends wonder, whimsy and ethereal aesthetics; her art has whiffs of Chagall, if you can picture him on the Mississippi. Rose uses mixed media in her sculpture, often making wooden dolls, twisted wire, or reimagining scrap items.
Rodrigue StudioGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-581-4244; www.georgerodrigue.com; 730 Royal St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
The late Cajun artist George Rodrigue’s gallery is the place to see examples of his unbelievably popular ‘Blue Dog’ paintings. The iconic dog became his signature, and why not: it was working for him. Look for topical works, displayed in rotating exhibits that showcase the artist – and, most often, the dog.
New Orleans Jazz National Historic ParkCULTURAL CENTER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-589-4841; www.nps.gov/jazz; 916 N Peters St; h9am-4:30pm Tue-Thu, to 4pm Fri & Sat) 
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The headquarters of the Jazz National Historic Park has educational music programs on most days. Many rangers are musicians and knowledgeable lecturers, and their presentations discuss musical developments, cultural changes and musical techniques in relation to the broad subject of jazz. Live music happens Tuesdays through Saturdays. You can pick up a self-guided walking tour map of jazz sites from this office – the tour can also be downloaded from their website.
Gallery BurguieresGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-301-1119; www.galleryburguieres.com; 736 Royal St; h10am-7pm)
Ally Burguieres’ artwork demonstrates plenty of technical skill, but there’s also a lot of heart in her paintings and sketches, which focus on animals and fairy-tale scenes. There are lots of prints available if you’re looking for affordable artwork for your home.
MoonwalkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; off Decatur St; h24hr)
Named for former mayor and politician Maurice ‘Moon’ Landrieu, this riverside promenade offers great Mississippi views.
RiverfrontPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; from Bienville to St Philip St)
It’s supremely pleasant to stroll up to the Mississippi River as it runs by the Quarter. The entire riverfront area has been landscaped with pedestrian paths, public arts projects and small green spaces such as the Woldenberg Park. Sunset is the best time to come up here: couples walk around in love; container ships and ferries ply the water; and all feels bucolic. Nearby is the Jackson (Jax) Brewery, a mediocre shopping mall that does have free public restrooms.
Musical Legends ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.neworleansmusicallegends.com; 311 Bourbon St; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
This pleasant little public square is peppered with statues of some of New Orleans’ great musical heroes: Louis Prima, Chris Owens, Pete Fountain, Al Hirt, Fats Domino and Ronnie Kole. Musicians play live jazz within the park from 10am until it closes.
Williams Research CenterRESEARCH CENTER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-4662; www.hnoc.org; 410 Chartres St; h9:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sat)
Dedicated travelers and history heads should pop into the Williams Research Center; if you have specific queries about almost anything to do with New Orleans, the staff can help. The archives contain more than 350,000 images and some 2 miles of manuscripts.
2Neighborhood Walk
A Stroll in the Vieux Carré
START JACKSON SQ
END JACKSON SQ
LENGTH 1.1 MILES; 1½ HOURS
Begin your walk at the 1Presbytère on Jackson Sq and head down Chartres St to the corner of Ursulines Ave. Directly across Chartres St, at No 1113, the 1826 2Beauregard-Keyes House combines Creole and American styles of design. Walk along Ursulines Ave to Royal St – the soda fountain at the 3Royal Pharmacy is a preserved relic.
When it comes to quintessential New Orleans postcard images, Royal St takes the prize. Cast-iron galleries grace the buildings and a profusion of flowers garland the facades, while buoyant buskers blare their tunes from practically every street corner.
At No 915 Royal, the 4Cornstalk Hotel stands behind one of the most frequently photographed fences anywhere. At Orleans Ave, stately magnolia trees and lush tropical plants fill 5St Anthony’s Garden (tough to see beyond the rows of street art) behind St Louis Cathedral.
Next to the garden, take the inviting Pirate Alley and turn right down Cabildo Alley and then right up St Peter St toward Royal St. Tennessee Williams lived at No 632 St Peter, the 6Avart-Peretti House, in 1946–47 while he wrote A Streetcar Named Desire.
Turn left on Royal St. At the corner of Royal and Toulouse Sts stands a pair of houses built by Jean François Merieult in the 1790s. The building known as the 7Court of Two Lions (now a gallery), at 541 Royal St, opens onto Toulouse St and next door is The Historic New Orleans Collection museum.
On the next block, the massive 1909 8State Supreme Court Building was the setting for many scenes in director Oliver Stone’s movie JFK.
Turn around and go right on Toulouse St to Decatur St and turn left. Cut across the road and walk the last stretch of this tour along the river. As Jackson Sq comes into view, cross back over to the Presbytère’s near-identical twin, the 9Cabildo.
5Eating
The French Quarter has its share of top-notch restaurants, so good that, by the time you leave, you may need to let your belt out a notch or two. Even the cheap eats are awesome, with incredible po’boys, decent dive fare and cheap-yet-tasty ethnic restaurants. The mid- and top-range categories are where the Quarter really shines, with haughty dress-code-enforced establishments side by side with newcomers, making this area a feast (literally). Many of the fancy dinner places have great deals during lunch, too. Also look for excellent brunches on weekends.
BayonaLOUISIANAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-4455; www.bayona.com; 430 Dauphine St; mains $28-33; h11:30am-1:30pm Wed-Sat, plus 6-9pm Mon-Thu, 5:30-10pm Fri & Sat; 
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Bayona is one of our favorite splurges in the Quarter, and a pioneer of the slow-food movement. It’s classy but unpretentious, an all-round fine spot for a meal. The menu changes regularly, but expect fresh fish, fowl and game, prepared in a way that comes off as elegant and deeply cozy at the same time.
oGalatoire’sCREOLE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-2021; www.galatoires.com; 209 Bourbon St; mains $20-44; h11:30am-10pm Tue-Sat, from noon Sun)
Friday lunchtime is the best time to visit this revered institution for its traditional Creole cuisine. That’s when local ladies in big hats and gloves and men wearing bowties (without irony) buy copious bottles of champagne, gossip to high hell and have eight-hour boozy lunches that, in their way, have been going on forever. Dress the part; jackets are a must for men.
Galatoire’s is a special place. Its interior has been frozen in time for over a century, and some families still run tabs here, a sure sign that your name rings out in the right New Orleanian social circles.
If you’re looking to dine on a dime (er, make that a Jackson or two) then come for lunch, when they offer – like many fine spots in the Quarter – a very nice prix-fixe special from Tuesday to Thursday. Expect to dine on old-line masterpieces and mainstays: pompano meunière (seasoned white fish), liver with bacon and onions, and the signature chicken Clemenceau.
Be sure to wander around after you finish eating, as some of the back rooms here have a near-museum-like quality, offering a fascinating glimpse back into the past.
SoBouAMERICAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-552-4095; www.sobounola.com; 310 Chartres St; mains $17-52; h7am-10pm)
The name means ‘South of Bourbon’. And the food? Hard to pin down, but uniformly excellent. The chefs play with a concept that mixes Louisiana indulgence with eccentricities: sweet-potato beignets slathered with duck gravy and chicory-coffee glaze – mmmm! The menu changes seasonally, but it’s always solid, as is the innovative cocktail bar.
Arnaud’sCREOLE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-5433; www.arnauds.com; 813 Bienville St; mains $26-42; h6-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2:30pm & 6-10pm Sun)
Back in 1918, ‘Count’ Arnaud Cazenave turned roughly a whole city block into a restaurant that’s served upscale Creole cuisine ever since. The menu includes shrimp Arnaud (shrimp in a rémoulade sauce), and oysters Bienville (an original dish with mushrooms and a white-wine sauce). Show up early for a French 75 at, hey, French 75. And men, bring a jacket.
Bourbon HouseCREOLE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-0111; 144 Bourbon St; mains $21-42; h6:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
The Bourbon House is an outpost of the Brennan restaurant empire. While you’ll find a nice steak and pulled pork on the menu, seafood is the specialty here. Catfish is served crusted with pecans in a rich butter sauce, while the barbecued shrimp, heavily laced with rosemary and black pepper, is absolute magic. Not surprisingly, plenty of bourbons as well.
Muriel’sCAJUN$$$
(MAP; %504-568-1885; www.muriels.com; 801 Chartres St; mains $21-39; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10:30am Sat & Sun)
Muriel’s has a ghost (they set a table nightly for him!), a fascinating history, and it’s one of the main stops on the Haunted History tours. The food is fine, and – if it’s not rented for a private event – you can bring your drinks to the dimly lit, blood-red Seance Lounge and sip them side by side with two sarcophagi.
Court of the Two SistersCREOLE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-7261; www.courtoftwosisters.com; 613 Royal St; mains $18-37, brunch $32; h9am-3pm & 5:30-10pm)
The Court regularly ranks in ‘best place for brunch in New Orleans’ lists, a standing that can be attributed to its setting as much as its food. The latter is a circus of Creole omelets, Cajun pasta salads, grillades, fruits, meats and fruity cocktails; the former is an enchanting Creole garden filled with sugar-scented warm air with soft jazz playing.
Reservations are recommended.
Dickie Brennan’s SteakhouseSTEAK$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-2467; www.dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com; 716 Iberville St; mains $26-85; h5:30-10pm Sat-Thu, 11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-10pm Fri)
New Orleans, a city of seafood and swamp ingredients, isn’t known as a steak town. Yet this steakhouse is considered one of the greatest in the South. This place does steak, and it does it right. For a side, try the Pontalba potatoes, done up with garlic, mushrooms and ham.
Antoine’sCREOLE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-581-4422; www.antoines.com; 713 St Louis St; dinner mains $27-48; h11:30am-2pm & 5:30-9:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun)
Established in 1840, Antoine’s is the oldest of old-line New Orleans restaurants. The dining rooms look like first-class lounges on the Orient Express and are named for Mardi Gras krewes. This restaurant invented dishes such as oysters Rockefeller, and coming here means eating history in a space that feels like it should host Jay Gatsby.
Broussard’sCREOLE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-581-3866; www.broussards.com; 819 Conti St; mains $18-40; h5:30-10pm)
Broussard’s has been around since 1920, offering tasty executions of Creole standbys such as veal and crawfish in a béchamel sauce, and redfish stuffed with shrimp, crabmeat and oysters, as well as bottomless mimosas. The on-site Empire Bar does for classic cocktails what the restaurant does for old-line Creole cuisine. No T-shirts, ripped jeans, flip-flops, tank tops or shorts, folks.
Brennan’s RestaurantCREOLE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-9711; www.brennansneworleans.com; 417 Royal St; mains $20-40; h9am-2pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun)
One of the grande dames of Creole dining, Brennan’s has undergone an enormous overhaul. It still offers decadent breakfasts and cocktail ‘eye-openers’ to start the day. But the cuisine has gotten a little more international, even as it remains old-school rich: roasted pork tenderloin ($28) and lump crab ($34) to name a few. Live music makes it even better.
K-Paul’s Louisiana KitchenCAJUN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-596-2530; www.kpauls.com; 416 Chartres St; mains $33-37; h5:30-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm Thu-Sat)
This was the home base of late chef Paul Prudhomme, who was essentially responsible for putting modern Louisiana cooking on the culinary map. The kitchen’s still cranking out quality: blackened twin beef tenders ($37) come with an incredibly rich ‘debris’ gravy that’s been slowly cooked over a two-day period.
GW FinsSEAFOOD$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-581-3467; www.gwfins.com; 808 Bienville St; mains $28-46; h5-10pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat)
Fins focuses, almost entirely, on fish: freshly caught and prepped so that the flavor of the sea is always accented and never overwhelmed. For New Orleans this is light, almost delicate dining – you’ll still find crabmeat stuffing and tasso toppings, but Fins also knows how to serve a rare yellowfin tuna with fine sticky rice.
oCoop’s PlaceCAJUN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-9053; www.coopsplace.net; 1109 Decatur St; mains $10-20; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
Coop’s is an authentic Cajun dive, but more rocked out. Make no mistake: it can be grotty and chaotic, the servers have attitude and the layout is annoying. But it’s worth it for the food: rabbit jambalaya or chicken with shrimp and tasso (smoked ham) in a cream sauce – there’s no such thing as ‘too heavy’ here. No patrons under 21.
Eat New OrleansCREOLE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-7222; http://eatnola.com; 900 Dumaine St; mains $13-27; h11am-2pm Tue-Fri, 5:30-10pm Tue-Sat, brunch 9am-2pm Sat & Sun; v)
Eat dishes out neo-Creole cuisine that has become immensely popular with locals; when a New Orleanian is willing to brave French Quarter parking for pork and mustard greens or stuffed peppers, you know something good’s going on. Brunch is special, with highlights such as fried chicken and gravy with eggs. Rare as the unicorn in NOLA, this spot allows BYOB.
SylvainLOUISIANAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-265-8123; www.sylvainnola.com; 625 Chartres St; mains $14-29; h5:30-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm Fri-Sun)
This rustic yet elegant gastropub draws inspiration from the dedication to local ingredients demonstrated by expert chefs. The menu changes often, but the focus is Southern haute cuisine, burgers, fish, ribs and the like – combined with craft cocktails with inventive names such as ‘Bang for the Buck’ and ‘Alexander Hamilton’.
Irene’s CuisineITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-529-8811; 529 Bienville St; mains $20-29; h5:30-10pm Mon-Sat)
Irene’s is a romantic gem, tucked in a corner that’s generally missed by travelers. Not that it’s easy to miss, given the lovely scent of garlic emanating from this intimate Italian cavern. Irene’s is Italian–French, really: pick from rosemary chicken, seared chops, pan-sautéed fish fillets and great pasta. Reservations aren’t accepted and long waits are the norm.
NolaAMERICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-6652; www.emerilsrestaurants.com/nola-restaurant; 534 St Louis St; mains $14-29; h11:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
TV chef Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter outpost is pretty damn good. Emeril himself isn’t in the kitchen ‘Bam!’-ing up your food, but whoever is does a great job with the fare. Following a major menu change and renovation in 2017, Nola still serves that famous Emeril’s Barbecued Shrimp, which keeps ’em coming back time after time.
Green GoddessFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-301-3347; www.greengoddessrestaurant.com; 307 Exchange Pl; mains $12-20; h11am-9pm Wed-Sun; v)
Who serves South Indian pancakes and tamarind shrimp? Alongside smoked duck and (oh, man) truffle grits? Green Goddess, that’s who. The Goddess combines a playful attitude to preparation with a world traveler’s perspective on ingredient sourcing and a workman’s ethic when it comes to actually cooking the stuff. No reservations accepted.
MeauxbarFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-569-9979; www.meauxbar.com; 942 N Rampart St; mains $17-43; h5-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 10am-2pm & 5pm-midnight Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-10pm Sun)
Meauxbar sounds French, but there’s a strong Louisiana influence running through the kitchen, as is good and proper. So think along the lines of American-French, with a menu that includes mussels, roasted beets, sweetbreads and Gruyère cheese. The seared scallops are cooked to perfection, even better with a cocktail or two. The dark setting is romantic; dress smart casual.
Port of CallBURGERS$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-0120; http://portofcallnola.com; 838 Esplanade Ave; mains $12-25; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
As one (albeit inebriated) local raved, ‘You come here, you get the burger.’ But it’s true: the meat is like umami condensed into a patty. Then there’s the baked potato on the side, buckling under the weight of sour cream, butter and bacon bits, all served in a 1960s-ish Polynesian tiki-bar setting. Expect a wait; no reservations are accepted.
St LawrenceGASTROPUB$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-4111; www.saintlawrencenola.com; 219 N Peters St; mains $15-24; h11am-2am)
So you’re dying for a late-night meal but don’t feel like pizza or bar nuts? Look no further. In a near-saintly move, these guys keep their kitchen open until 2am, and among other great options, offer a rice-and-beans-and-sausage plate that will stop you in your tracks (it could feed a small army).
Café AmelieFRENCH$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-412-8965; www.cafeamelie.com; 912 Royal St; mains $15-29; h11am-3pm Wed-Sun, 5-9pm Wed, Thu & Sun, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
We wax rhapsodic over the Quarter’s beautiful backyard gardens, and Amelie’s, much beloved by locals, takes the cake. An alfresco restaurant tucked behind an old carriage house and surrounded by high brick walls and shady trees, this is a supremely romantic dining spot. Fresh seafood and local produce are the basis of a modest, ever-changing menu.
Deanie’s SeafoodSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-581-1316; www.deanies.com; 841 Iberville St; mains $16-32; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
Charbroiled oysters are a key reason to come here – they’re done perfectly, with garlic and butter and cheese. This large, ‘proper attire required’ restaurant gets packed at peak times, but can be walk-in friendly during its off hours. They have a variety of other ‘Nawleans’ seafood specials, too. Grab a table, order some charbroiled bits of heaven, and enjoy!
Acme Oyster & Seafood HouseSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-5973; www.acmeoyster.com; 724 Iberville St; mains $11-24; h10:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
They still shuck oysters to order here, which is a beautiful thing, but they also serve gumbo in a ‘poopa’ (bread bowl). It’s a good spot for fresh oysters close to the Bourbon St craziness.
Fiorella’sITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-605-4816; www.fiorellasnola.com; 1136 Decatur St; mains $16-28; h11am-10pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Tasty sangria specials and sweet, friendly servers make Fiorella’s a nice stop for an afternoon tipple. While the food is good, that doesn’t quite cut it in the gourmand’s paradise of the French Quarter; if you come, don’t plan on ordering anything other than the unexpectedly tasty fried chicken.
BennachinAFRICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-1230; 1212 Royal; St; mains $16-18; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; v)
West African cuisine (specifically Cameroonian and Gambian) doesn’t pose too many challenges to the conservative palate. It’s basically meat and potatoes, with a main, such as beef in peanut stew or spinach and plantains, served with some kind of starch used as a scooping accompaniment. The heavy use of okra reminds you how much this cuisine has influenced Louisiana. And BYOB!
oMister Gregory’sFRENCH$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-407-3780; www.mistergregorys.com; 806 N Rampart St; mains $5-13; h9am-4pm; v)
That the French expat community of New Orleans regularly makes its way to Mister Gregory’s should tell you something about the quality of this bistro’s baguettes and sandwiches. This no-frills lunch and breakfast spot specializes in deli baguettes, plus it does a mean line of croque-style sandwiches (ie with melted cheese and béchamel on top), salads and waffles.
Croissant D’Or PatisserieBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-524-4663; www.croissantdornola.com; 615-617 Ursulines Ave; mains $3-7; h6:30am-3pm Wed-Mon)
Bring a paper, order coffee and a croissant – or a tart, quiche or sandwich topped with béchamel sauce – and bliss out. Check out the tiled sign on the threshold that says ‘ladies entrance’ – a holdover from earlier days. While the coffee is bland, the pastries are perfect, and the shop is well-lit, friendly and clean.
Café BeignetCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-524-5530; www.cafebeignet.com; 334 Royal St; mains $6-8; h7am-10pm)
In a shaded patio setting with a view of Royal St, this intimate cafe serves omelets, Belgian waffles, quiches and beignets. There’s a low-level war among foodies over who does the better beignet – this place or Café du Monde – with the general consensus being that this spot uses less powdered sugar.
StanleyCREOLE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-587-0093; www.stanleyrestaurant.com; 547 St Ann St; mains $10-16; h7am-7pm)
While sandwiches and other lunchy things are available at Stanley, we’re all about the breakfast. Bananas Foster French toast and fluffy pancakes provide the sweet, while a Breaux Bridge Benedict with boudin (Cajun sausage) and local hollandaise does up the savory side. Either option is delicious.
Café du MondeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-4544; www.cafedumonde.com; 800 Decatur St; beignets $3; h24hr)
Café du Monde is the most popular destination in New Orleans and, unfortunately, it often feels that way. But once you do get seated, the beignets (square, sugar-coated fritters) and chicory café au lait, served here since 1862, are decadent and delicious. Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week – the cafe only closes for Christmas Day.
Central GroceryDELI$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-1620; 923 Decatur St; sandwiches $12-23; h9am-5pm)
There are a few New Orleans names inextricably linked to a certain dish, and Central Grocery is the word-association winner for the muffuletta. That’s pronounced ‘muffa-lotta’, and the name about sums it up: your mouth will be muffled by a hell of a lotta sandwich, stuffed with meat, cheese and sharp olive salad.
This is a real grocery, by the way – one of the last neighborhood vestiges of the New Orleans Sicilian community, and the fresh Italian produce is a draw on its own.
Mona LisaITALIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-6746; 1212 Royal St; mains $10-17; h5-10pm Wed-Mon)
An informal and quiet local spot in the Lower Quarter, Mona Lisa is dim, dark and candlelight-romantic in its own quirky way. Kooky renditions of Da Vinci’s familiar subject hang on the walls. Wearing hair curlers, looking 50lb heavier or appearing in the form of a cow, she stares impassively at diners munching on pizzas, pastas and spinach salads.
Clover GrillDINER$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-598-1010; 900 Bourbon St; mains $4-10; h24hr)
This spot near the gay end of Bourbon St resembles an Edward Hopper painting, in which the clientele consists of an out-of-makeup drag queen and a drunk club kid arguing to a background of blaring disco. The food is dependable diner fare: good for a hangover.
Johnny’s Po-BoysSANDWICHES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-524-8129; http://johnnyspoboy.com; 511 St Louis St; dishes $7-16; h8am-4:30pm)
A local favorite since 1950, Johnny’s is the only traditional po’boy joint around. It’s all checkered tablecloths, hustle, bustle and good food served by good folks. Breakfast is simple and delicious. Cash only.
Verti MarteDELI$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-4767; 1201 Royal St; sandwiches $7-15; h24hr)
Sometimes you just wanna wander the Quarter with a tasty sandwich in hand. If that’s the case, get to Verti, a reliable deli with a take-out stand offering a menu as long as a hot New Orleans summer day. Try the ‘All that Jazz’, a ridiculously scrumptious blend of turkey, shrimp, ‘wow sauce’, ham, cheese and who knows what else.
MISSISSIPPI RIVERBOATS
New Orleans’ current fleet of steamboats are theme-park copies of the old glories that plied the Mississippi River in Mark Twain’s day. Gone are the hoop-skirted ladies, wax-mustachioed gents, round-the-clock crap games and the bawdy tinkling on off-tune pianos. Instead the steamboats offer urbane (but sterile) evening jazz cruises, and while the calliope organ survives, it’s hard not to feel like the tour is a bit over-the-top, especially given the hefty price tag.
Still, few visitors to New Orleans can resist the opportunity to get out on the Mississippi and watch the old paddle wheel propel them up the river and back down again for a spell. It’s a relaxing pastime that the entire family can enjoy.
Creole Queen (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %800-445-4109, 504-529-4567; www.creolequeen.com) Runs a two-hour dinner-and-jazz cruise (adult/child six to 12 years/child three to five years $79/36/12, without dinner $48/24/free), featuring a live Dixieland jazz combo, boarding nightly at 6:30pm from the Riverwalk on Canal St. A historical river cruise leaves from the Chalmette Battlefield at 1:30pm daily (adult/child six to 12 years/child under six years $34/14/free).
Steamboat Natchez (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-589-1401; www.steamboatnatchez.com; 600 Decatur St) The closest thing to an authentic steamboat running out of New Orleans today, the Natchez is both steam-powered and has a bona-fide calliope on board. The evening dinner-and-jazz cruise (adult/teenager/child $81/37/18, without dinner $48/24/free) departs at 7pm nightly. There are also brunch-and-jazz cruises at 11:30am and 2:30pm (adult/teenager/child $44/22/9, without brunch $32/13/free).
6Drinking & Nightlife
The French Quarter, with its 24-hour bars and open-carry alcohol policy (where you can drink openly in public), is a fantastic spot for a drink. Whether it’s at a raging Bourbon St bar or a quiet dive-bar on a secluded corner, if ethanol is your thing, it’s here.
The Upper Quarter gets most tourist traffic, but don’t miss the quieter spots, such as Pirate Alley. Alternatively, head down to lower Decatur St for a collection of interesting dives and locals’ pubs, or just follow Royal, Bourbon or Decatur to Esplanade, drinking as you go, then finish the night on Frenchmen.
oBar ToniqueCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-324-6045; www.bartonique.com; 820 N Rampart St; hnoon-2am)
‘Providing shelter from sobriety since 08/08/08’, Tonique is a bartender’s bar. Seriously, on a Sunday night, when the weekend rush is over, we’ve seen no fewer than three of the city’s top bartenders arrive here to unwind. This gem mixes some of the best drinks in the city, offering a spirits menu as long as a Tolstoy novel.
The one drawback: if Tonique is crowded, it can take awhile to get your drink. Deep breaths. These cocktails are made with love and care, and deserve a little patience. If it’s too crowded, they may not even make you that Ramos Gin Fizz you’re craving. If you can, go in the afternoon, when they have a great happy hour and plenty of time.
PassionsCOCKTAIL BAR
First, you have to have the password, which you can only get (if you’re among the ‘chosen’) by visiting Boutique du Vampyre, a few blocks away. Use that phrase for entrance to a lush, sensual, dimly lit bar with plush sofas, a great bartender, and all the black and red a vampire could want. Pure speakeasy fun at its finest.
The cocktails are delicious, with names that Edgar Allan Poe would certainly approve of – ‘The Black Cat,’ the ‘Blood Drop Martini’ – and fun spell- or vampire-themed descriptions, such as ‘good for shape-shifting’ or ‘feeds your nocturnal hunger.’
There’s a balcony for watching the street’s insanity, but best is just chatting with the bartender, a local for decades, who has seen just about everything New Orleans has to offer and a whole lot more. The $10 cover charge isn’t for everyone, and it’s certainly not a local dive or watering hole, but it’s a delightfully unique place to have some excellent cocktails and feel like you’ve dropped into Transylvania for the evening.
Carousel BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-3341; http://hotelmonteleone.com/entertainment; 214 Royal St; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
At this smart-looking spot inside the historic Hotel Monteleone, you’ll find a revolving circular bar, canopied by the top hat of the 1904 World’s Fair carousel, adorned with running lights, hand-painted figures and gilded mirrors. In 15 minutes the 25-seat bar completes a full revolution. A top spot for a tipple you’ll remember for a while. Careful on your way out.
oFrench 75BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-5433; www.arnaudsrestaurant.com/bars/french-75; 813 Bienville St; h5:30-11:30pm Sun-Thu, to 12:30am Fri & Sat)
This spot is all wood and patrician accents, but the staff is friendly and down to earth. They’ll mix high-quality drinks that will make you feel (a) like the star of your own Tennessee Williams play about decadent Southern aristocracy and (b) blissfully drunk. Definitely dress up for this ritzy place, which is perfect after a dinner at Arnaud’s.
oCane & TableCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-581-1112; www.caneandtablenola.com; 1113 Decatur St; h3pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
One of the classier venues in this part of the Quarter, the Cane & Table – with its romantically faded interior and Mediterranean-style outdoor courtyard – is so stunning it’s hard to knock. The drinks are fun, playful and inventive, some with a tiki-type vibe. And did we mention they’re tasty, too?
oTiki ToltecaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://tikitolteca.com; 301 N Peters St; h5-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat, noon-11pm Sun)
Though this great tiki bar shares the block with another tiki-themed powerhouse, Latitude 29, they’re as different as Tahiti and Hawaii. Here you’ll find a small, intimate bar, where it’s easy to chat and make new friends, and some impressive drinks – which pack a punch. There’s a daily happy hour (from opening until 7pm). The entrance is around the corner on Bienville.
Most people walk into Felipe’s, the Mexican restaurant downstairs, first. Don’t be confused, just turn around and look for the relatively small sign directing you upstairs via the stairwell.
oPatrick’s Bar VinWINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-200-3180; http://patricksbarvin.com; 730 Bienville St; h4pm-midnight Mon-Thu, noon-1am Fri, 2pm-1am Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun)
With its carpets, plush chairs, nooks and shelves upon shelves of wine, you’ll feel like you’re visiting a rich friend’s house when you have a glass or two here. Along with its own extensive collection, Patrick’s Bar Vin offers a limited number of personal, temperature-controlled wine lockers to keep your precious bottles safely stored.
Black PennyBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-304-4779; www.facebook.com/BlackPennyNola; 700 N Rampart St; hnoon-4am)
Run by the folks from nearby Bar Tonique, this spot focuses on great brews, though you can get a fine cocktail if you so desire. Even folks without much taste for traditional beer can find a tipple they might like (such as fruit or ginger beers), and the comfy booths make it easier to talk with friends.
Molly’s at the MarketIRISH PUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-5169; www.mollysatthemarket.net; 1107 Decatur St; h10am-6am)
A cop, a reporter and a tourist walk into a bar. That’s not a joke, just a good description of the eclectic clientele you get at this excellent neighborhood bar. It’s also the home of a fat cat (Mr Wu), some kicking Irish coffee and an urn containing the ashes of its founder.
Lafitte’s Blacksmith ShopBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-593-9761; www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com; 941 Bourbon St; h10:30am-3am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
This gutted brick cottage claims to be the country’s oldest operating bar – it certainly is the oldest in the South, and one of the most atmospheric in the Quarter. Rumors suggest it was once the workshop of pirate Jean Lafitte and his brother Pierre. Whether true or not (historical records suggest not), the house dates to the 18th century.
Pat O’Brien’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-4823; www.patobriens.com; 718 St Peter St; hnoon-2am Mon-Thu, 10am-4am Fri-Sun)
Yes, it’s a campy tourist trap, but Pat O’Brien’s has genuine atmosphere and history, and where else can you see copper-clad steampunk-esque dueling pianos playing different versions of ’80s Billy Joel hits? The courtyard, lit by flaming fountains, is genuinely lovely, but folks mainly pack in for their Hurricanes, a blend of rum, juice and grenadine.
Napoleon HouseBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-524-9752; www.napoleonhouse.com; 500 Chartres St; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
By all appearances, the Napoleon House’s stuccoed walls haven’t received so much as a dab of paint since the place opened in 1805. The diffused glow pouring through open doors and windows in the afternoon draws out the room’s gorgeous patina. The bar serves a good range of stiff mixed drinks, cold beer, and a popular Pimm’s Cup.
Chart RoomBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-1708; 300 Chartres St; h11am-4am)
The Chart Room is simply a great bar. There’s a historical patina on the walls, creaky furniture inside, outdoor seating for people-watching and a cast of characters plucked from Fellini’s 8½ casting call. You may even meet Pocahontas. Or someone who believes he is her.
Deja VuBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-1931; http://dejavunola.com; 400 Dauphine St; h24hr)
Deja Vu is everything a neighborhood bar should be: mainly, it’s there when you are, be that 7:30am or midnight. Open 24/7, Deja Vu has cheap beers, decent cocktails, a friendly vibe, super-sweet bartenders, and even food. Nothing hoity-toity here, just a good local bar. Did we mention that it’s open 24 hours?
Latitude 29COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-609-3811; http://latitude29nola.com; 321 N Peters St; h3-11pm Sun-Thu, 1pm-midnight Fri & Sat)
Jeff ‘Beachbum’ Berry is a tiki-bar scholar. If a drink has rum, is served in a faux-Polynesian cup or comes with an umbrella and some fruit, the man has written on it. These drinks from across the tropics are served in Latitude 29, Jeff’s bar devoted to all things tiki. They’re excellent and the bartenders are knowledgeable and friendly.
Café Lafitte in ExileGAY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-8397; www.lafittes.com; 901 Bourbon St; h24hr)
This spot, with its huge across-street projection and mood lighting, doesn’t exactly feel historical, but it’s the oldest dedicated gay bar in the USA. Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote both drank here. What’s in a name? The owners once ran Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop; when they lost their lease in 1953, they moved here and opened Lafitte in Exile.
Spitfire CoffeeCOFFEE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.spitfirecoffee.com; 627 St Peter St; h8am-8pm)
This spot specializes in pour-over coffee and espresso drinks ($3.50 to $4.50). It serves some of the Quarter’s strongest coffee, eschewing the usual amounts of milk. It’s a take-out spot, so grab that coffee, wander over to nearby Jackson Sq, and fuel up for some caffeine-powered sightseeing. The Hellfire Mocha ($5.50) is a fiery concoction any chili addict should try.
Tropical IsleBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-529-4109; http://tropicalisle.com; 721 Bourbon St; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
This touristy bar serves ‘Hand Grenades’; drinking more than two is likely to buy you a ticket to Regret Town, characterized by dancing on the table, bead tossing, bead receiving… and the eventual gathering of the limp shreds of your dignity the next day. But why are you on Bourbon St, if not for that? Woo!
Double PlayGAY & LESBIAN
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-4517; 439 Dauphine St; h7:30pm-2am)
Double Play is technically a bar but this friendly spot is also drag central. You’ll likely see a lot of queens here, along with every other walk of life. Drag or no drag, the drinks are delightful.
Old Absinthe HouseBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-524-0113; www.ruebourbon.com/old-absinthe-house; 240 Bourbon St; h9am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
The Old Absinthe House, a casual spot where 1940s football helmets hang from the ceiling, is also one of the bars that served absinthe before the liquor was outlawed in 1914. Absinthe’s legal again, and you can have it the traditional way: with water dripped over a sugar cube. When the sugar vanishes, the ‘Green Fairy’ is ready. Cheers!
Pirate’s Alley CafeBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-524-9332; www.piratesalleycafe.com; 622 Pirate Alley; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, 10am-2am Fri & Sat)
The narrow pedestrian alley in the shadow of St Louis Cathedral is a natural spot for a tiny bar, and this nook fits the bill perfectly. It has the atmosphere of a little Montparnasse hideaway, replete with several water drips for a tipple of the ‘Green Fairy’. You can grab a quick drink here before departing on a tour.
OzGAY & LESBIAN
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-593-9491; www.ozneworleans.com; 800 Bourbon St; h24hr)
Your traditional, commonplace, shirtless, drag-diva, loud-music, lots-of-dancing-boys bar, where there are bowls of condoms set out for the customers. Though it claims to be ‘open when you are,’ bartenders admit that it’s most reliably open 24 hours from Thursday to Sunday. It’s still a great party until 1am, 3am, or sunrise, depending.
Cosimo’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-9715; 1201 Burgundy St; h4pm-2am Mon & Tue, to 5am Wed-Thu, 2pm-5am Fri & Sat, 2pm-2am Sun)
There aren’t a ton of bars in the Quarter that we’d call neighborhood bars, but Cosimo’s fits the bill, and does so superlatively well. Dark wood, big windows, gambling machines, a good jukebox, pool tables and bartenders with the right amount of tender and toughness; this is simply a very fine bar, and it deserves your patronage.
Erin RoseBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-3573; 811 Conti St; h10am-6am Sun-Thu, to 8am Fri & Sat)
The Rose is only half a block from Bourbon St, but feels a world away. Few tourists make it in here, but it’s the go-to cheap spot for off-shift service folks, who hit it up for a beer, banter and a shot or five. Excellent po’boys ($10 to $14) are served in the back.
Bourbon Pub & ParadeGAY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-529-2107; www.bourbonpub.com; 801 Bourbon St; h10am-3am Sun-Thu, 24hr Fri & Sat)
The Bourbon is the heart of New Orleans’ gay nightlife. Many of the events that pepper the city’s gay calendar either begin, end or are conducted here; during Southern Decadence, in particular, this is the place to be. Ladies are welcome, but this is pretty much a bar for the boys.
SECRET, SPOOKY & MACABRE
There’s no question that for all the boisterous partying and the fine dining, there’s something a little bit spooky here in the French Quarter too. Voodoo got its continental start here, nearly every building has a ghost story or two, and if you talk to residents long enough, some will even come clean about hearing an unexplained bump in the night.
Whether you believe in all that or not, you can have a lot of fun at the following spots, all of which feature something quirky, spooky or just plain dead.
Passions This hidden, locked speakeasy above a popular Bourbon St bar is password-protected better than most computers, by a secret phrase that you can only find out by visiting the lovely clerks at Boutique du Vampyre. Be nice to them. If they deem you and your compatriots worthy, they’ll let you know where the bar is, and what magic password will get you in.
Toulouse Dive Bar (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-2260; 738 Toulouse St; h2pm-6am Mon-Thu, 11am-7am Fri-Sun) Yes, in most respects this is exactly what it appears to be: a dive bar on Toulouse St. But try to find the bathroom and you’ll see why we’ve included it here.
Muriel’s (MAP GOOGLE MAP) What’s not to like about a place that sets a table (even pours a glass of wine!) for their resident ghost? You don’t have to dine here to get a view of that (it’s visible from the street), but don’t miss out on visiting the upstairs Seance Lounge, a plush, curtained, dimly lit red room guarded by two Egyptian-style sarcophagi.
Museum of Death Nothing secret or hidden about this museum, and it’s not for the queasy: see letters written by serial killers, skulls, even shrunken heads. If you need a macabre reminder of what’s in store for all of us, this is your place. Afterwards, sufficiently depressed and reminded that you do indeed only live once, head to Bourbon St and live the rest of the day as if it were your last.
3Entertainment
oFritzel’s European Jazz PubJAZZ
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-586-4800; www.fritzelsjazz.net; 733 Bourbon St; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
There’s no cover charge at this awesome venue for live jazz, which is so small that you really can’t have a bad seat. The seating is kind of rustic: benches and chairs so tightly packed that you’ll be apologizing for disturbing people each time you go to the bathroom. But the music is great, everything New Orleans jazz should be.
oPreservation HallJAZZ
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-2841; www.preservationhall.com; 726 St Peter St; cover Sun-Thu $15, Fri & Sat $20, reserved seats Sun-Thu $35-45, Fri & Sat $40-50; hshowtimes 8pm, 9pm & 10pm, also 5pm & 6pm Thu-Sun)
Preservation Hall, housed in a former art gallery dating from 1803, is one of New Orleans’ most storied live-music venues. The resident performers, the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, are ludicrously talented, and regularly tour the world. ‘The Hall’ dates from 1961, when Barbara Reid and Grayson ‘Ken’ Mills formed the Society for the Preservation of New Orleans Jazz.
There are some caveats to seeing a show here: first, the set is only about an hour long. Still, you’re paying to see musical history as much as music, so we’re OK with that. But hey, we also want to be able to see the band. The Hall is atmospheric, but it is also small and popular, and you need to show up early – at least an hour before – to snag a seat. Otherwise you’ll be standing and, likely as not, your view will be blocked by people in front of you. Of course, you can reserve seats online, but you pay for the privilege. When it’s warm enough to leave the window shutters open, those not fortunate enough to get inside can join the crowd on the sidewalk to listen to the sets.
Also note that no alcohol or snacks are served, and the bathroom is in next-door Pat O’Brien’s bar.
Fleur de TeaseDANCE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-975-1245; http://fleurdetease.com)
If you’re in the mood for something a bit risqué, we’d recommend catching this burlesque show. These talented ladies, many of whom claim professional dance backgrounds, blend vintage vibe with a modern, in-your-face post-feminist sexuality that is pretty enticing for both men and women. They perform all over town, including at One Eyed Jacks every other Sunday.
One Eyed JacksLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-569-8361; www.oneeyedjacks.net; 615 Toulouse St; cover $10-25)
If you’ve been thinking, ‘I could use a night at a bar that feels like a 19th-century bordello managed by Johnny Rotten,’ you’re in luck. Jacks is a great venue; there’s a sense that dangerous women in corsets, men with Mohawks and an army of bohemians with absinthe bottles could come charging out at any moment. The musical acts are consistently good.
House of BluesLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-310-4999; www.houseofblues.com/neworleans; 225 Decatur St; tickets $11-50)
This national chain of blues venues has put a lot of admirable work into making their New Orleans outpost distinctive: there’s tons of folk art and rustic, voodoo-themed murals and sculptures, and the effect is more powerful than kitschy.
Palm Court Jazz CaféLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-0200; www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com; 1204 Decatur St; cover around $5; h7-11pm Wed-Sun)
Fans of trad jazz who want to hang out with a mature crowd should head to this supper-club venue. Palm Court is a roomy spot that has a consistently good lineup of local legends; you really can’t go wrong if you’re a jazz fan. Shows start at 8pm.
Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux CarréTHEATER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-2081; www.lepetittheatre.com; 616 St Peter St)
Going strong since 1916, Le Petit Théâtre is one of the oldest theater groups in the country. In its Jackson Sq home, the troupe offers good repertory, with a proclivity for Southern dramas and special children’s programming. Shows are sometimes followed by an informal burlesque performance, with the cast, audience and a resident ghost (so we hear) mingling over drinks.
Balcony Music ClubLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-301-5912; www.balconymusicclub.com; 1331 Decatur St; h5pm-2am Mon-Thu, 3pm-4am Fri-Sun)
Balcony is all about the acts: if there’s a dud band playing, you can walk on by without breaking your stride, but on good nights it’s a convenient step in the French Quarter–Faubourg Marigny stumble o’ fun along Decatur St.
CASKET GIRLS & WORKING GIRLS
During the early days of their work at the Ursuline Convent, the nuns quickly observed that an unusually high proportion of the colony’s women were working the world’s oldest profession, leading to a shortage of possible wives for the men. They decided the solution was to call in marriageable teenage girls from France (generally recruited from orphanages or convents). The girls arrived in New Orleans, Biloxi and Mobile with their clothes packed in coffin-like trunks, and thus became known as the ‘casket girls.’ Educated by the nuns, the girls were brought up to make proper wives for the Frenchmen of New Orleans. Over the centuries, the casket-girl legacy became more sensational as some in New Orleans surmised the wood boxes may have contained French vampires.
Of course, prostitution never lost its luster in this steamy port. New Orleans’ fabled bordellos are one of the earliest foundations upon which the city’s reputation as a spot for sin and fun are built. It’s immortalized in the famous song, ‘The House of the Rising Sun,’ which tells the tale of a ruined life in New Orleans; there’s some ambiguity about whether the lyrics refer to a real brothel.
The most famous ‘sporting’ houses were elegant mansions, reputedly decorated with some of the finest art and furnishings of their era, and staffed with a multiracial cast of employees ranging from white to Creole to black. Around the turn of the 20th century, famously puritan city alderman (councillor) Sidney Story wrote an ordinance that moved the bordellos out of the city’s posh residential neighborhoods and into the side of the French Quarter that borders the Tremé. Never ones to pass up good irony, New Orleanians dubbed their red-light district ‘Storyville’ in honor of Sidney.
Although there were no Lonely Planet books around at the time, visitors could explore Storyville with the help of the ‘Blue Book,’ a guide to the area’s dubious attractions. Each book was imprinted with the line: ‘Order of the Garter: Honi Soit Qui Mal Y Pense’ (Shame to Him Who Evil Thinks). Jazz was largely popularized by visitors listening to music in Storyville’s storied pleasure houses. One of the most famous houses, the Arlington, operated at 225 North Basin St (look for the onion-domed cupola, all that’s left of the demolished bordello).
Storyville was shut down in 1917 by the federal government. At the time, Mayor Martin Behrman lamented that, while the authorities could make prostitution illegal, ‘you can’t make it unpopular’.
You can get almost anything, and we mean anything, in the French Quarter – most of it is even legal, too. From soaps to souvenirs, clothing to crafts, everything’s for sale here and often it’s on extravagant display.
oFifi Mahony’sCOSMETICS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-4343; 934 Royal St; hnoon-6pm Sun-Wed, 11am-7pm Thu-Sat)
New Orleans is the most costume-crazy city in the USA, and Fifi Mahony’s is the place to go to don a wig. There’s a stunning selection of hairpieces here that runs the gamut from the glittered to the beehived, presented in a veritable rainbow of colors. An on-site beauty salon and sassy staff round out the experience.
oMS Rau AntiquesANTIQUES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-5660; www.rauantiques.com; 630 Royal St; h9am-5:15pm Mon-Sat)
With a huge 30,000-sq-ft showroom, and after a century of doing business, MS Rau ranks among New Orleans’ most venerated dealers of antiques. It’s all a bit serious – these are the sort of frosty antiques that require their own insurance policies – but it’s a family business and the professional salespeople are warm and approachable.
oSecondLine Art & AntiquesARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-875-1924; www.secondlinenola.com; 1209 Decatur; h8am-8pm Sun-Wed, to 10pm Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, market 5pm-1am Thu-Mon)
Get unique crafts, art, antiques and souvenirs at this co-op, which includes an indoor gallery space and a courtyard night market outside. Meet the artists, chat with craftspeople and know that your purchase goes directly to the creators themselves. Everything from moose heads to jewelry to votive candles might be found. Come in and browse!
oLittle Toy ShopGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-1770; http://littletoyshops.com; 513 St Ann St; h8:30am-8:30pm)
Packed nearly floor to ceiling with toys and gifts for the younger set, this bustling shop has just about anything your kids, nieces, nephews or other such relatives might want. Choose between books, games, jokes, string dolls, voodoo and magic sets, stuffed animals and pet rocks.
Boutique du VampyreGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-561-8267; www.feelthebite.com; 709 St Ann St; h10am-9pm)
This dungeon-esque store stocks all kinds of vampire-themed gifts. Come here for books, curses, spells, souvenirs and witty banter with the awesome clerks who oversee this curious crypt. Among the items is a deck of tarot cards with truly surreal, somewhat disturbing artwork. If your fangs have chipped, their on-call fangsmith can even shape you a new custom pair.
Now, don’t quote us: keep this on the down low. But the store’s lovely guardians may – if you look undead enough, come from Transylvania or can shape-shift into a bat on command – reveal the password to enter a secret vampire-themed speakeasy, Passions, which is located above a popular bar nearby. Don’t be crushed if they don’t, as vampires are as fickle as it gets. And remember, you didn’t hear this from us.
Faulkner House BooksBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-524-2940; www.faulknerhousebooks.com; 624 Pirate Alley; h10am-5pm)
The erudite owner of this former residence of author William Faulkner sells rare first editions and new titles in an airy, elegant and charming independent bookshop. And, yes, there are a number of Faulkner titles on sale as well.
French Quarter Postal EmporiumGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-6651; www.frenchquarterpostal.net; 1000 Bourbon St; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)
The wide variety of gifts here ranges from raunchy Bourbon St tropes (gag gifts, wince-worthy quips on T-shirts and mugs) to the genuinely beautiful, such as art, crafts and other souvenirs.
LucullusANTIQUES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-528-9620; http://lucullusantiques.com; 610 Chartres St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Peeking in the window, you’ll see a battery of ancient copper pots that appear to have generations of dents tinkered out of their bottoms. Owner Patrick Dunne is an advocate of using, not merely collecting, antiques. Follow his advice and add more ritual and elegance to your life with an antique café au lait bowl or an absinthe spoon.
oHové ParfumeurCOSMETICS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-7827; www.hoveparfumeur.com; 434 Chartres St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun)
Grassy vetiver, bittersweet orange blossoms, spicy ginger – New Orleans’ exotic flora has graciously lent its scents to Hové’s house-made perfumes for almost a century. In its 90th year, female-owned and -operated for more than four generations, it’s an inspiring spot that will leave your head swirling with images of the Vieux Carré’s magnificent past.
Chiwawa GagaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-581-4242; www.chiwawagaga.com; 511 Dumaine St; hnoon-6pm)
What’s not to love about a pet shop specifically dedicated to costumes? Not just dogs – they’ve proudly dressed snakes, pigs, iguanas, rabbits and even Tony the llama! The folks who run this store are dedicated to sourcing, and often creating by hand, some fantastically elaborate getups for your little (or big!) best friend.
QueorkFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-481-2585; www.queork.com; 838 Chartres St; h10am-6pm) S
Besides boasting a punny name, Queork has a cool, sustainable gimmick: all of the bags, belts and accessories sold here are made from cork. The products both look and feel cool; the fascinating texture belies some pretty fashionable goods.
Esoterica Occult GoodsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-581-7711; www.onewitch.com; 541 Dumaine St; hnoon-6pm)
There are many (many) hokey magic/voodoo/spell shops in the French Quarter, but Esoterica is one of our favorites. There’s a sense of sincerity regarding the occult here; these folks genuinely want to help you with spells and karmic realignment. Pop in for some mystical consultation.
Librairie BooksBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-4837; 823 Chartres St; h10am-5pm)
A jam-packed little shop of delights for the avid bookworm and collector. The emphasis here is on very old (and sometimes dusty) volumes. You might dig up an ancient copy of Herbert Asbury’s The French Quarter, or other tales of old New Orleans. And there are scholarly texts and ample material of more general interest as well.
Trashy DivaCLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-8861; www.trashydiva.com; 712 Royal St; h11am-7pm)
If all these drag shows have you feeling like your undergarments (or your life!) need a bit of spicing up, head to this vintage-inspired lingerie store – impossible to miss on its corner of Royal St, where a half-dozen scantily-dressed mannequins advertise the wares.
Dirty CoastCLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-324-6730; www.dirtycoast.com; 713 Royal St; h11am-7pm)
Dirty Coast offers a wide range of T-shirts and other gifts that bring environmental, social, or other local issues to light. Don’t expect to find ‘I’m more wasted than a liberal arts degree!’ on anything here. Expect socially aware, often scathing or tongue-in-cheek commentary on current issues and societal shortcomings.
Rev Zombie’s House of VoodooGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-486-6366; www.voodooneworleans.com; 723 St Peter St; h10am-11:30pm Sun-Thu, to 1:30am Fri & Sat)
Step inside and you’ll see this is one religious store that’s not bent on snuffing out the party. An altar at the entry includes a serious request that you not take photos, but then comes a truly splendiferous display of plaster-of-Paris statuettes imported from the Santería realms of Brazil. All are fun and charming; many are simply beautiful.
Tabasco® Country StoreFOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-539-7900; www.nolacajunstore.com; 537 St Ann St; h10am-8pm)
Bet you thought Tabasco was either red or green and always hot, right? Guess again: here you’ll find Tabasco ketchup, mayonnaise, cookbooks, plenty of souvenirs and a fairly incredible range of hot (and not-so-hot) sauces. Need a 500-count pack of mini-Tabasco bottles? This is the place. Also sells all manner of Cajun and New Orleans–themed kitsch.
James H Cohen & SonsANTIQUES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-3305; www.cohenantiques.com; 437 Royal St; h9:30am-5:15pm Mon-Sat)
From the sidewalk, you might be inclined to pass this one by: it’s full of guns, including flintlocks, colts, and Winchester ’73s. Beyond weaponry, however, the place is like a museum, stuffed with relics and historical curiosities, from jewelry and coins to swords and maps.
Od AomoCLOTHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-460-5730; www.odaomo.com; 839 Chartres St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) S
Dr Sophia Aomo Omoro has worn many hats in her life: runway model, surgeon, philanthropist and now proprietor of a high-end fashion boutique. All of the clothes under her label are made in her native Kenya, where she is dedicated to providing increased employment. Her style sits at a hip intersection of ethnic patterns and contemporary chic.
Java House ImportsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-581-1288; 523 Dumaine St; h10am-5pm)
Java House Imports does indeed have cool imports and statues from Java, as well as Balinese masks, Indonesian-style Buddhas, lacquer-work from Lombok, and all the other items to prove what a savvy traveler you are.
Leah’s PralinesFOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-5662; www.leahspralines.com; 714 St Louis St; h10am-6pm)
This old candy shop specializes in that special Creole confection, the praline. If you’ve already tried pralines elsewhere and decided that you don’t care for them, we suggest you try some at Leah’s before making up your mind completely. Did someone say Bacon Pecan Brittle, for instance? Or Sweet Potato? Scrumptious.
MaskaradeGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-568-1018; www.themaskstore.com; 630 St Ann St; h10am-5pm)
Do not confuse this with a joke shop or a spot for those Groucho Marx nose ’n’ glasses. Decades old, this place deals in high-quality masks by local and international artisans. The selection includes everything from classic commedia dell’arte masks from Venice to masks worn by the Cirque du Soleil. Think hang-on-the-wall art, not wear-for-Mardi-Gras.
Fleur de ParisFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-1899; www.fleurdeparis.net; 523 Royal St; h10am-6pm)
Fleur de Paris proves that millinery stores not only exist, but can thrive – this is the largest one in the USA. Their custom hats are bouquets of plumage, felt, lace and, here and there, a snatch of black netting. The evening gowns are devastating showstoppers.
Moss AntiquesANTIQUES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-3981; www.mossantiques.com; 411 Royal St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, by appointment Sun)
Watch your head when you enter this gallery of low-hanging chandeliers. Moss is a Royal St institution in the local antiques trade – only the finest quality antiques and objets d’art are sold here. You’ll find the perfect thing for your Garden District mansion.
Beckham’s BookshopBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-9875; 228 Decatur St; h10am-5pm)
This large, well-organized store has been selling books for nearly 40 years. With two floors of used books, as well as used classical LPs, it’s definitely worth a browse.
Humidity Skate ShopSPORTS & OUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-529-6822; www.humiditynola.com; 515 Dumaine St; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun)
Graffiti chic, Vans shoes, Palace, Deluxe, Scumco decks and Spitfire wheels – if any of that makes sense to you, make your way up to Dumaine St.
Collectible AntiquesANTIQUES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-566-0399; 1232 Decatur St; hnoon-6pm)
You never know what you’ll find between the piles of old furniture stacked along the walls of this large, garage-like emporium of tantalizing junk. Perhaps you collect old photographic portraits from long-defunct studios? Or maybe you’re after an Art Deco martini shaker, a dented trumpet, a Pee-wee Herman doll, a heavy army-surplus coat or some silverware? It’s all here.
Le GarageANTIQUES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-6639; 1234 Decatur St; hnoon-6pm)
This place lives up to its name: it’s literally a garage, loaded with interesting stuff to paw through. There are odd items of clothing, hats, army surplus, curtains, yellowed pool balls, tattered Mardi Gras costumes from yesteryear, knitted beer-can caps, furniture and oodles of objets d’art to ogle or buy. Treasures galore: dive in.
Arcadian Books & Art PrintsBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-4138; 714 Orleans Ave; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, 11:30am-4pm Sun)
Arcadian is a small, crowded shop that’s filled with Southern literature and history, as well as many volumes written in French. Owner Russell Desmond speaks French fluently and is a wonderful, if cynical, ambassador for New Orleans.
2Sports & Activities
New Orleans Culinary History ToursWALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %877-278-8240; http://noculinarytours.com; 823 Decatur St; per person $55-84)
It’s hard to beat a tour that is delicious and intellectually stimulating. That’s what Kelly Hamilton, a history instructor at Xavier University, offers with these tours that plumb both the past and local pantries.
Magic ToursTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-588-9693; www.magictoursnola.com; 441 Royal St; adult $25, student & senior $20; h8am-8pm)
Led by local teachers, historians, preservationists and journalists, these tours explore the French Quarter daily at 4pm, among their other options. Magic Tours admirably gets under the skin of the city.
Tours By JudyCULTURAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-416-7777, 504-416-6666; www.toursbyjudy.com; per person from $15)
Judy Bajoie, a local scholar and historian, leads well-crafted tours of the city she loves. Tours depart from outside St Louis Cathedral, Jackson Sq; contact Judy for more information.
Friends of the CabildoWALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-523-3939; www.friendsofthecabildo.org; 523 St Ann St; adult/student $20/15; h10am & 1:30pm Mon-Sun) S
These walking tours are led by knowledgeable (and often funny) docents, who will give you a great primer on the history of the French Quarter, the stories behind some of the most famous streets and details of the area’s many architectural styles. Tours depart from the 1850 House Museum store.
New Orleans School of CookingCOOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-2665; www.nosoc.com; 524 St Louis St; courses per person $28-33)
A food demonstration – not a hands-on class. Menus rotate daily, but rest assured you’ll be watching creations such as gumbo, jambalaya, and pralines at the end of class, all the while learning about the history of the city as told by the charismatic chefs.
American Bicycle Rental CoCYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-324-8257; www.amebrc.com; 318 N Rampart St; per 4hr/8hr/24hr $25/30/40; h9am-5pm)
Rents out cruiser-style bikes for adults and kids.
Royal Carriage ToursTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-943-8820; www.neworleanscarriages.com; at Decatur St & Jackson Sq; private tour up to 4 people per 30min/1hr $100/200, shared carriage per 30min/1hr $20/40; h8:30am-midnight)
The conductors of these mule-drawn carriage tours know their stuff, revealing the locations of celebrity homes and sites of historic minutiae that constantly impress. Royal Carriages has a good animal-welfare track record; it’s licensed by the city and doesn’t conduct tours if the weather is more than 95°F (35°C).
American Photo SafariTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-298-8876; www.americanphotosafari.com; per person $69)
A cleverly focused tour: the photo-safari docents don’t just show you the sights, they give you lessons in how to take pictures of them as well. Call ahead to make a reservation; the tour meeting point is Jackson Sq, by St Louis Cathedral.
Haunted History ToursHISTORY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-861-2727; www.hauntedhistorytours.com; 723 St Peter St; adult/child $25/14, student & senior $18; h6pm & 8pm year-round, 3pm 26 Dec-31 Jul & 1 Oct-30 Nov)
Sure, these tours are a little cheesy, but they’re fun too, and you’ll learn a bit about the shady side of city history.
