Faubourg Marigny & Bywater
Faubourg Marigny & Bywater
Neighborhood Top Five
1 Frenchmen Street Wandering around at, say, 7pm when the music starts, having dinner, listening to music, dancing a bit, seeing who’s playing on the corner of Chartres, scarfing down some late-night tacos, then listening to more music.
2 Crescent Park Spotting container ships from the banks as they meander up the Mississippi.
3 Marigny Opera House Catching dance, puppetry and all manner of shows at this unique performance venue, which occupies the grounds of a former church.
4 St Claude Avenue Listening to music, from punk to bluegrass to hip-hop, on this street filled with eclectic performance venues.
5 The Barmuda Triangle Embarking on a pub crawl for the ages around the neighborhood bars of Bywater.
Explore Faubourg Marigny & Bywater
Faubourg Marigny sits adjacent to the French Quarter, beginning just after Esplanade Ave. Marigny is divided by Elysian Fields Ave. Further downriver (east) are the Press St railroad tracks, marking the beginning of Bywater, which extends to the Industrial Canal.
Wander around Marigny by walking up Decatur St and onto Frenchmen St. Then head east along Royal St, taking in the architecture and sampling the local fare at some of the cafes and restaurants along the way. When night falls, head back to Frenchmen St to either party, listen to music, or both.
From the French Quarter, you can either bike or walk out to Bywater. You can explore compact Bywater easily on foot or with two wheels, eating, drinking and shopping wherever the spirit moves you. In the evening, head out to catch music or theater along St Claude Ave, or see if there’s anything interesting showing at one of the local theaters.
Marigny is bounded by Rampart St to the west, the railroad tracks at Press St to the east and Esplanade Ave to the south. Bywater extends from Press to Poland St. St Claude Ave is, for our purposes, the northern border of both neighborhoods, but as there are more and more places of interest opening north of St Claude, we include some of those spots as well. The southern boundary of Bywater is easy to spot: it’s the Mississippi River.
Local Life
Theater It takes plenty of forms here, from the brick-and-mortar playhouses such as Marigny Opera House to the street theater of local artists putting on impromptu performances.
Bars Even if you’re not big on drinking, rubbing shoulders with locals at spots like BJ’s gets you under the skin of the city.
Markets From the Healing Center to Palace Market, these are the places to peruse and discover local goods.
Getting There & Away
Bus Bus 5, which you can catch on Canal and Decatur Sts, runs up Decatur and onto Poydras and Dauphine into the heart of Marigny and Bywater.
Car Free street parking is quite plentiful in Bywater, and only a little less common in Marigny. There are no time restrictions, except on Esplanade Ave.
Bike It’s a pleasant, easy bike ride out here. If you’re heading to Bywater, you can ride through Crescent Park, but the access point on St Peters St is by elevator, while the exit point is all the way down on Bartholomew St.
1Sights
There’s a lot of pleasure to be had just wandering around streets like Royal St, Dauphine St and Rampart St, and admiring local houses. You can also find art bazaars, streets full of music, riverside parks and the odd cemetery scattered amid the pastel homes and crumbling streets.
Crescent ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 
%504-636-6400; www.crescentparknola.org; Piety, Chartres & Mazant Sts; 
h6am-7:30pm; 
p
c
#) 
S
This waterfront park is our favorite spot in the city for taking in the Mississippi. Enter over the enormous arch at Piety and Chartres Sts, or at the steps at Marigny and N Peters Sts, and watch the fog blanket the nearby skyline. A promenade meanders past an angular metal-and-concrete conceptual ‘wharf’ (placed next to the burned remains of the former commercial wharf). A dog park is located near the Mazant St entrance.
Frenchmen StreetSTREET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; from Esplanade Ave to Royal St)
The ‘locals’ Bourbon St’ is how Frenchmen St is usually described to those who want to know where New Orleanians listen to music. The predictable result? Frenchmen St is now packed with out-of-towners each weekend. Still, it’s a ton of fun, especially on weekdays when the crowds thin out but music still plays. Bars and clubs are arrayed back to back for several city blocks in one of the best concentrations of live-music venues in the country.
Palace MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-249-9003; www.palacemarketnola.com; 619 Frenchmen St; h6pm-1am)
Independent artists and artisans line this alleyway market, which has built a reputation as one of the better spots in town to find a unique gift to take home as your New Orleans souvenir. The selections include T-shirts with clever New Orleans puns, hand-crafted jewelry, trinkets and a nice selection of prints and original artwork.
Healing CenterMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-940-1130; www.neworleanshealingcenter.org; 2372 St Claude Ave; hvaries by store; p)
The bright-orange Healing Center is a sort of warehouse of all things organic, spiritual, New Age and conscious-raising. Inside, you’ll find yoga studios, performance spaces, a sustainable food co-op, and a central entrance hall that houses large voodoo shrines that are utilized by local adherents of the religion.
Art GardenMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-912-6668; 613 Frenchmen St; h6pm-midnight Thu-Mon)
Art Garden is an arts-bazaar space filled with painters working on their projects while you shop. It’s a good spot to find unique or limited-edition work from local artists, and is a nice respite from the bustle of Frenchmen St. It’s located next to another arts market, the Palace Market.
Press Street GardensGARDENS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.pressstreetgardens.com; 7 Press St, btwn Dauphine & Burgundy Sts; hsunrise-sunset) S
The New Orleans Center for Creative Arts runs this plot of land as part of its culinary education program. You’ll find wandering chickens, placid goats and rows of organic vegetables used for educating the next generation of New Orleans chefs. Frequent events and markets are held on the grounds of the gardens.
Volunteers are welcome at the gardens from 9am-noon on Tuesdays.
Clouet GardensPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 707 Clouet St; hsunrise-sunset; c#) S
This formerly empty lot has been transformed by its Bywater neighbors into a neat little park filled with murals and generally appealing weirdness. Performances, concerts and neighborhood get-togethers are frequently held here.
St Vincent de Paul CemeteryCEMETERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 1401 Louisa St; h8am-3:30pm)
As New Orleans cemeteries go, this one feels completely off the tourist radar. And yet, it’s as atmospheric and gloomy as any other ‘city of the dead.’ Be on the lookout for inscriptions written in French and a slew of immigrant names encompassing émigrés from across Europe. Take a taxi or drive out here.
Ninth Ward Victory ArchMONUMENT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Burgundy St, btwn Pauline & Alvar Sts)
Walk down Burgundy street in Bywater and, seemingly out of nowhere, an Arc de Triomphe–style monument stands next to a high school football field. Oddly imposing and showing signs of neglect, this is the Ninth Ward Victory Arch, dedicated to the local veterans of WWI. The names on the monument are segregated by race.
Because of this segregation, Take ‘Em Down, the group that led a campaign against the city’s Confederate memorials, listed this monument as offensive in 2017. Others argue that an explanatory plaque or signage would allow the monument to still honor the soldiers it lists while providing historical context to the public.
Markey ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 700 Piety St; hsunrise-sunset; c#) S
This small green space has a playground. It’s a popular spot for Bywater families, and a good place to let younger kids run off some energy, especially given its proximity to Pizza Delicious (always good for hungry kids).
Plessy v Ferguson PlaqueHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Press & Royal Sts) 
F
This plaque marks the site where Homer Plessy, in a carefully orchestrated act of civil disobedience, tried to board a whites-only train car. That action led to the 1896 Plessy v Ferguson trial, which legalized segregation under the ‘separate but equal’ rationale. The plaque was unveiled by Keith Plessy and Phoebe Ferguson, descendants of the opposing parties in the original trial, now fast friends.
Washington Square ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Frenchmen & Royal Sts; hsunrise-sunset; #)
Also known as ‘Marigny Green,’ this park is a popular spot for locals to play with their dogs, toss Frisbees and, based on the frequent smell, smoke things that aren’t cigarettes. There’s a touching HIV/AIDS memorial on the northern side of the park. Be aware the park can be a congregation point for the homeless and those suffering from addiction and mental-health issues.
Voodoo Spiritual TempleMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-943-9795; www.voodoospiritualtemple.org; 1428 N Rampart St; donations accepted; hby appointment)
Mexican crucifix? Check. Tibetan mandala? Ditto. Balinese Garuda? Why not? Miriam William’s voodoo temple is a mash-up of global religions, New Age mysticism, and, of course, voodoo. The temple is big on the tour-group circuit and it can be entertaining to watch Miriam give her lectures on life, the universe and everything else. Some think her enlightening, others find her rambling. She doesn’t keep set hours, so you should call ahead and bank on visiting before 5pm (she tends to close up around then).
WORTH A DETOUR
THE LOWER 9TH WARD
Following almost complete inundation from rising floodwaters, the Lower 9th Ward received the most media attention following Hurricane Katrina, even though neighborhoods such as Lakewood and Gentilly were similarly affected. Parts of the Lower 9th remain pretty devastated, still more wilderness than ruins. From Bywater, drive a few minutes across the Industrial Canal on Claiborne or St Claude St and make your second left on Deslonde; you’ll see a mix of empty lots and the architectural oddity of LEED Green Building–certified homes built by Brad Pitt’s Make It Right Foundation (www.makeitrightnola.org).
The popular narrative of the Lower 9th is that it was devastated after Katrina, and this is true – but what is left is less urban wasteland, and more reclaimed nature. Those who wanted to move back to the neighborhood are already here, and that number was never enough to repopulate the entire area. In between the homes that are now occupied, one can find miles of empty lots and jungle-esque overgrowth. In many ways, the neighborhood is doing better than similarly hit areas – celebrity and media attention has at least brought money and volunteers. For all the talk of ‘bringing the Lower 9th back,’ what’s here now is likely to be what will be here for the foreseeable future.
Ronald Lewis, a 9th Ward native and former streetcar worker and union rep, showcases the heritage of his home neighborhood in his actual home, which has been converted into the House of Dance & Feathers (%504-957-2678; http://houseofdanceandfeathers.org; 1317 Tupelo StS. This museum-turned-community-center brims with exhibits on Mardi Gras Indians, and Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs (African American civic organizations), and is emblematic of a unique American neighborhood. To get here you’ll need a car; call Ronald beforehand, as the museum is open by appointment only. Admission is free, but donations are gratefully accepted.
Sankofa is a community organization that participates in several initiatives aimed at improving life here and across the city. It runs a twice-a-week Fresh Market (%504-872-9214; http://sankofanola.org/fresh-stop-market; 5029 St Claude Ave; h9am-1pm Sat & 2-5pm Wed) S and is at work expanding a wetland and nature trail (%504-872-9214; 6400 Florida Ave; hsunrise-sunset; p) SF in the neighborhood.
Rather than simply driving through the neighborhood or visiting via a tour bus, make an appointment with Confederacy of Cruisers (MAP GOOGLE MAP) for its Ninth Ward Rebirth Bike Tours. It works closely with Lower 9th Ward residents to provide a tour that acts as a dialogue between visitors and locals. Stops include local businesses and the House of Dance & Feathers.
5Eating
The food cachet of Marigny and Bywater is increasing by the month, and there’s a general bohemian vibe and plethora of good eats in this part of town.
oPizza DeliciousITALIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-676-8482; www.pizzadelicious.com; 617 Piety St; pizza by slice from $2.25, whole pie from $15; h11am-11pm Tue-Sun; 
vc#)
The thin-crust pies here are done New York–style and taste great. The preparation is simple, but the ingredients are fresh and consistently top-notch. An easy, family-friendly ambience makes for a lovely spot for a casual dinner, and it serves good beer too if you’re in the mood. Vegan pizzas are available. The outdoor area is pet-friendly.
oRed’s ChineseCHINESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-304-6030; www.redschinese.com; 3048 St Claude Ave; mains $5-18; hnoon-11pm; v)
Red’s has upped the Chinese cuisine game in New Orleans in a big way. The chefs aren’t afraid to add lashings of Louisiana flavor, yet this isn’t what we’d call ‘fusion’ cuisine. The food is grounded deeply in spicy Szechuan flavors, which pairs well with the occasional dash of cayenne.
oCake Café & BakeryBREAKFAST$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-943-0010; www.nolacakes.com; 2440 Chartres St; mains $6.25-13; h7am-3pm Wed-Mon)
On weekend mornings the line quite literally extends out the door here. Biscuits and gravy (topped with andouille – smoked pork sausage), fried oysters and grits (seasonally available), and all the omelets are standouts. Lunch is great, too, as are the cakes (goat cheese and apple king cake!) whipped up in the back.
Bywater BakeryBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-336-3336; www.bywaterbakery.com; 3624 Dauphine St; mains $6-9; h7am-5pm; v)
This bakery is doing things right. It serves breakfasts – say, shrimp and grits or biscuits and gravy – in a cup (it works!), fantastic quiches, open-faced sandwiches, and slices of some of the most drop-dead delicious cakes you’ve ever tried. The king cake is so addictive it should be banned. Just kidding.
KebabMIDDLE EASTERN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-383-4328; www.kebabnola.com; 2315 St Claude Ave; mains $6.50-9.50; h11am-11pm Sun, Mon, Wed, & Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, closed Tue; v)
Americans are learning what Europeans and Middle Easterners have long known: when you’re drunk (and, to be fair, even when sober), shaved meat or falafel served on flatbread with lots of delicious sauces and vegetables is amazing. Kebab has come to preach this gospel in New Orleans, and does so deliciously.
Poke-chanASIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-571-5446; www.poke-chan.com; 2809 St Claude Ave; mains $11-17; h11am-10pm; v)
Poke-chan adds a welcome bit of fresh Asian-inspired flavor to St Claude Ave. The menu features traditional Hawaiian poke – raw seafood salad – as well as bowls inspired by pan-Asian cuisine, with varied ingredients such as Korean pork belly, Thai chicken, seaweed and more.
Sneaky PickleVEGAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-218-5651; www.yousneakypickle.com; 4017 St Claude Ave; mains $5-9.25; h11am-9pm; v) S
This city has been sorely in need of a vegan-friendly spot that can hold its own against the city’s famously meat-heavy cuisine. Enter Sneaky Pickle, a little spot on St Claude that dishes out tempeh Reubens on sourdough, beet flatbreads and a ton of unexpected, tasty specials, including one changing meat dish.
Rampart Food StoreSANDWICHES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-944-7777; 1700 N Rampart St; po’boys $7-11; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat)
JointBARBECUE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-949-3232; www.alwayssmokin.com; 701 Mazant St; mains $7.50-18; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Sat)
The Joint’s smoked meat has the olfactory effect of the Sirens’ sweet song, pulling you, the proverbial traveling sailor, off course and into a savory meat-induced blissful death (classical Greek analogies ending now). Enjoy some ribs, pulled pork or brisket with some sweet tea in the backyard garden and learn to love life if you haven’t already.
St Roch MarketMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-609-3813; www.strochmarket.com; 2381 St Claude Ave; prices vary by vendor; h7am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; vc)
The St Roch Market was once the seafood and produce market for a working-class neighborhood. But after it was nearly destroyed by Hurricane Katrina, it was renovated into a shiny food court. The airy interior space now hosts 13 restaurants serving a broad range of food, including crepes, burritos, Haitian cuisine and coffee.
Queenie’sSOUTHERN US$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-558-4085; 3200 St Claude Ave; mains $7-13; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun)
In a neighborhood full of flashy new restaurants, Queenie’s is appealingly old-school, even though it opened in 2017. This is a counter-style spot with frozen daiquiris for a hot day and delicious hand pies. The kitchen also slings a good po’boy, as well as good-value soul-food hot plates, from shrimp and grits to chicken and waffles.
Horn’sSOUTHERN US$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-459-4676; www.hornsnola.com; 1940 Dauphine St; mains $6-17; h7am-3pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sun; v)
This colorful little spot has plenty of New Orleans character – and characters. This is a good spot to recover from a hangover; inked-up waitstaff cart out excellent breakfasts, from latkes (potato pancakes) topped with crawfish, eggs and spinach to cornbread waffles and pulled pork. Lunch and dinners lean more towards hot plates, po’boys and sandwiches.
Shank CharcuterieSOUTHERN US$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-218-5281; www.shankcharcuterie.com; 2352 St Claude Ave; mains $9-16; h11am-7pm Tue-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun)
Operated by a dedicated team of butchers, Shank is unapologetically accommodating to carnivores. For breakfast, you can try an unctuous headcheese (a kind of terrine) platter; for lunch and dinner, try a pimento cheese burger or simple, delicious grilled pork chops. The meats behind the glass case are perfect for an evening of grilling.
JunctionAMERICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-272-0205; www.junctionnola.com; 3021 St Claude Ave; mains $9-13; h11am-2am)
Junction takes a tight-focused approach to cuisine: it does cheeseburgers, and does them well. Variations include an Iowa burger with corn relish, blue cheese and bacon. The cheeseburgers come with hand-cut fries, and there are fine salads and wings on the menu, too. An enormous beer menu also tempts. Junction is a 21-and-over establishment.
KukhnyaEASTERN EUROPEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-265-8855; 2227 St Claude Ave; mains $5.50-10; h4pm-midnight; v)
This restaurant in the Siberia live-music bar serves, appropriately enough, Eastern European and Russian grub. The blinis (crepes) run the gamut from savory (ham and cheese) to sweet (apple), nicely complemented by hearty beef stroganoff and delicious mushroom and cabbage rolls. The burger and the Reuben are both standouts.
Who Dat Coffee Cafe & Cafe NeroCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-872-0360; 2401 Burgundy St; coffees & pastries $3-5, mains $7-15; hWho Dat 7am-10pm, Cafe Nero 8am-3pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sun; 
Wv)
This comfortable coffee shop has good pastries, better sandwiches, lovely coffee and cupcakes, many baked with a bit of booze. The on-site restaurant, Cafe Nero, is a hidden treasure. The breakfast menu in particular is excellent; the Not Yo Mama’s corn cakes, drowning in a cheesy egg sauce, are ridiculously tasty.
Lost LoveVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-949-2009; 2529 Dauphine St; mains $5.25-12; h6pm-midnight)
This divey neighborhood bar also has a Vietnamese kitchen in the back serving great pho, banh mi (Vietnamese po’boys) and spring rolls. Just be aware the atmosphere isn’t standard Vietnamese American dive (Formica, old Republic flag, karaoke); this place is more of an inked-up hideaway.
SatsumaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-304-5962; www.satsumacafe.com; 3218 Dauphine St; mains $5.50-10.50; h7am-5pm; vc)
With its chalkboard menu of organic soups and sandwiches, ginger limeade and graphic- and-pop art-decorated walls, Satsuma is hip and fun. Kids’ books and indulgent staff make this an ideal spot for your children.
Dat DogAMERICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-309-3362; www.datdognola.com; 601 Frenchmen St; mains $5-8; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
The Frenchmen St outpost of this popular local franchise serves sausages ranging from ‘duck dogs’ to alligator sausage to hot Cajun sausage layered with toppings such as remoulade or crawfish. For what it’s worth, regular, excellent sausages and down-to-earth toppings are available as well. There’s a great balcony here for viewing the Frenchmen St scene below.
Bao & NoodleCHINESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-272-0004; www.baoandnoodle.com; 2700 Chartres St; mains $5-14; h11:30am-2pm & 5-10pm Tue-Sat; v)
You’ll find casual yet refined Chinese in this Creole shack, which boasts a dining room and a menu that is small and delicious. Elegant steamed bao (dumplings) are served alongside savory bowls of spicy pork noodles, while lamb shoulder is braised in soy sauce and cumin.
13 MonaghanDINER$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-942-1345; www.13monaghan.com; 517 Frenchmen St; mains $6-11; h11am-4am; v)
As it’s usually called, ‘13’ is a diner with a twist: much of its delicious greasy-spoon fare is actually vegetarian. A Philly cheesesteak, for example, comes with portobello mushrooms or tofu instead of beef. There’s also a meat version, plus great pizza and other diner classics.
Gene’sSANDWICHES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-943-3861; 1040 Elysian Fields Ave; po’boys $8; h24hr)
It’s hard to miss Gene’s: with its pink-and-yellow exterior, it’s one of the most vividly painted buildings on Elysian Fields Ave. The hot sausage po’boy with cheese, and the fact it is served 24/7 with a free drink, is the reason you come here.
oBacchanalAMERICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-9111; www.bacchanalwine.com; 600 Poland Ave; mains $8-21, cheese from $6; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
From the outside, Bacchanal looks like a leaning Bywater shack; inside are racks of wine and stinky-but-sexy cheese. Musicians play in the garden, while cooks dispense delicious meals on paper plates from the kitchen in the back; on any given day you may try chorizo-stuffed dates or seared diver scallops that will blow your gastronomic mind.
Elizabeth’sCAJUN, CREOLE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-944-9272; www.elizabethsrestaurantnola.com; 601 Gallier St; mains $11-26; h8am-2:30pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2:30pm Sun)
Elizabeth’s is deceptively down-at-heel, but the food’s as good as the best New Orleans chefs can offer. It’s all friendliness, smiling sass, weird artistic edges and overindulgence on the food front. Brunch and breakfast are top draws – the praline bacon is no doubt sinful, mixing greasy salt and honeyed sweet sugar, but consider us happily banished from the Garden.
Adolfo’sITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-3800; 611 Frenchmen St; mains $9-24; h5:30-10:30pm)
If you take a date to this intimate Italian cubby squeezed on top of a jazz club (the Apple Barrel) and don’t feel sparks, maybe it wasn’t meant to be, because Adolfo’s is romantic as can be. The food isn’t bad either, all stick-to-your-ribs Italian–American fare with some requisite New Orleans zing.
Bywater American BistroAMERICAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://bywateramericanbistro.com; 2900 Chartres St, Bywater; h5-10pm Wed-Sat)
This modern American restaurant in a former rice mill uses local ingredients and impeccable technique to compose inventive, flavorsome dishes. Many, like the warmly spiced rabbit curry, draw inspiration from owner Nina Compton’s native Caribbean, but the menu is a melting pot of influences. Try the bresaola-style tuna toast or pickled shrimp (a variation on ceviche).
6Drinking & Nightlife
The bars on this side of town are legendary, encompassing wine shops, cozy neighborhood watering holes and some of the city’s most popular gay bars (including a gay bathhouse). All of this simply means that when it comes to having a good time, you’re kind of spoiled for choice in this part of town.
oBuffa’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-949-0038; www.buffasrestaurant.com; 1001 Esplanade Ave; h24hr)
Buffa’s wears a lot of hats. First and foremost, it’s a neighborhood bar with a backroom stage that hosts the occasional band, quiz night, open-mic night and TV/movie screening. Second, it’s a 24-hour spot that serves one of the best cheeseburgers in town.
oMimi’s in the MarignyBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-872-9868; www.mimismarigny.com; 2601 Royal St; h3pm-late Mon-Fri, 11am-late Sat & Sun)
The name of this bar could justifiably change to ‘Mimi’s is the Marigny’ – it’s impossible to imagine the neighborhood without this institution. It’s an attractively disheveled place, with comfy furniture, pool tables, an upstairs dance hall decorated like a Creole mansion gone punk, and dim brown lighting like a fantasy in sepia. The bar closes when the bartenders want it to.
Bud Rip’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-945-5762; 900 Piety St; h1pm-late)
One of the oldest bars in Bywater, Bud Rip’s clientele is at the junction of the old Bywater working class crowd and the new hipster kids who are moving in around them. Drinks are strong and cheap, and DJs spin on weekends.
J&J’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-942-8877; www.jjssportslounge.com; 800 France St; h9am-4am)
A neighborhood dive extraordinaire, J&J’s has incredibly cheap (and strong) drinks and a clientele of charmingly crazy locals. Despite the posted hours, this place will often stay open for 24 hours if customers are sticking around.
Solo EspressoCAFE
(MAP; %504-408-1377; www.soloespressobar.com; 1301 Poland Ave; h7am-3pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
This little shack serves very fine, strong, small-batch coffee, and its espresso drinks are seriously delicious.
BJ’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/bjs.bywater; 4301 Burgundy St)
This Bywater dive attracts a neighborhood crowd seeking cheap beers, chilled-out banter and frequent events, from blues-rock gigs to sci-fi readings by local authors. How great is this place? Robert Plant felt the need to put on an impromptu set here when he visited town. Cash only.
Lost LoveBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-949-2009; 2529 Dauphine St; h2pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun) Dark and sexy, Lost Love is that vampy Marigny goth or moody artist your momma told you to stay away from, mixed with a bit of blue-collar dive-bar sensibility. The drinks are cheap, the pours are strong, there are regular trivia nights, movies and TV shows are projected onto a big screen, and there’s an excellent Vietnamese kitchen in the back.
Country ClubBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-945-0742; www.thecountryclubneworleans.com; 634 Louisa St; h10am-1am daily)
From the front, it’s a well-decorated Bywater house. Walk inside and there’s a restaurant, sauna, leafy patio with bar, heated outdoor pool, 25ft projector screen and a hot tub. There’s a $10 towel rental fee if you want to hang out in the pool area, which is a popular carousing spot for the gay and lesbian community (all sexualities welcome).
JohnBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-942-7159; 2040 Burgundy St; h24hr)
The clever name comes courtesy of the toilet bowl seats and tables arrayed around an otherwise pretty open interior space. The extremely strong drinks, served in mason jars, come courtesy of friendly bartenders. An excellent dive spot to start a Frenchmen St bar crawl.
R BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-7499; www.royalstreetinn.com; 1431 Royal St; h3pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat)
This grotty spot seamlessly blends punk-rock sensibility with the occasional confused French Quarter tourist. Like many older New Orleans businesses, R Bar’s appeal lies in its rough edges: a beer and a shot cost a few bucks, the pool tables constantly crack, the jukebox is great and everyone seems to stop by on Mardi Gras day.
Parleaux Beer LabMICROBREWERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-702-8433; www.parleauxbeerlab.com; 634 Lesseps St; hMon, Thu & Fri 3-10pm, from 11am Sat, from 10am Sun)
A diverse menu of beers, ranging from the hoppy to the fruity, is sold at this ‘nanobrewery,’ which also has a lush little courtyard where parents bring their kids on many a warm Bywater evening. Food trucks are frequently present, and some of the best restaurants in the neighborhood are a hop, skip and jump away.
Bar ReduxBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-592-7083; www.facebook.com/BarRedux; 801 Poland Ave; h4pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
A friendly little bar with an outdoor courtyard that’s full of offbeat local art, the sound of the nearby train tracks and lots of live performances, ranging from cabaret to theater and from comedy to music. There’s a kitchen on-site slinging decent bar food and a warm, idiosyncratic vibe that’s very Bywater.
Faubourg WinesWINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-342-2217; www.faubourgwines.com; 2805 St Claude Ave; hnoon-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
Faubourg (as many call it) is primarily a wine shop but also offers tons of wine classes, and an in-house bar provides a spot for some nice sipping with the locals. The owners make a point of providing affordable bottles, including a rack of under $10 vintages.
Big Daddy’s BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-6288; 2513 Royal St; h24hr)
If it’s too crowded at popular Mimi’s across the street, or if you’re tired of the thumpa-thumpa-bass queer scene on Bourbon, head to this friendly ‘gayborhood’ bar, where all sexualities are welcome for friendly banter and cheap drinks.
Orange CouchCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-267-7327; 2339 Royal St; h7am-9pm, to 8pm Jun-Aug; W)
An icebox-cool cafe, all Scandi-style furniture, polished stone flooring, local artwork and photography on the walls, graffiti-lined restrooms and, yes, an orange leather couch in the midst of it all. The sort of place where a tattooed attorney takes out a laptop and a tort law manual and works for hours.
Markey’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-943-0785; 640 Louisa St; h2pm-2am Mon-Thu, from 11am Fri-Sun)
Markey’s stands out for two reasons: its barn-red exterior and the fact that it is a straight-up good neighborhood hangout. There’s shuffleboard, cheap beer, sports on the TV and an excellent jukebox. Closing hours are flexible.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
THE BARMUDA TRIANGLE
There are a lot of good neighborhood bars in New Orleans, but Bywater has a particular concentration of excellent dives where locals rub elbows and drink in convivial excess. If by chance you choose to sail the seas of old 9th Ward imbibery, beware of what the locals like to call the Barmuda Triangle! Many a drunken sailor has vanished in this boozy sector of space time, only to re-emerge the following day, nursing vague happy memories and a splitting headache. If you dare to embark on this alcohol-fueled adventure, chart a course for…
Vaughan’s (MAP GOOGLE MAP) The most central port of call for a Barmuda expedition.
BJ’s Always good for a cheap High Life and a shot.
Bar Redux It has outdoor seating, and a breath of fresh air may keep you afloat.
J&J’s Avast! Dangerously cheap and strong drinks here.
Bud Rip’s If ye have made it through the four bars listed above, take a small hike to the center of Bywater and enjoy one of its oldest bars.
3Entertainment
oAllWays LoungeTHEATER, LIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-218-5778; www.theallwayslounge.net; 2240 St Claude Ave; cover $5-10; h6pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
In a city full of funky music venues, AllWays stands out as one of the funkiest. On any given night of the week you may see experimental guitar, local theater, thrash-y rock, live comedy, burlesque or a ’60s-inspired shagadelic dance party. Also, the drinks are super cheap. A cover fee applies only during shows.
oSpotted CatLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.spottedcatmusicclub.com; 623 Frenchmen St; cover $5-10; h2pm-2am Mon-Fri, noon-2am Sat & Sun)
oHi Ho LoungeLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-945-4446; www.hiholounge.net; 2239 St Claude Ave; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
Hip-hop, punk, brass bands, dance parties, live storytelling events and Mardi Gras Indians regularly pop up at Hi Ho, one of the most eclectic venues in an eclectic city. It can get pretty packed, but this remains one of the best mid-sized venues in town for a live act. May stay open later on weekends.
Marigny Opera HousePERFORMING ARTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-9998; www.marignyoperahouse.org; 725 St Ferdinand St)
This former church has been remodeled into a performing arts space that’s infused with the sort of romantic dilapidation that very much fits the New Orleans aesthetic. The Opera House gained national prominence when Solange Knowles (Beyonce’s sister) got married here; on other days, the venue hosts theater and music performances and showcases its own dance company.
Kajun’s PubKARAOKE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-947-3735; www.kajunpub.com; 2256 St Claude Ave; h24hr) F
Kajun’s is guaranteed for a good cast of characters. This bar is technically a live-music venue too…if you count karaoke as live music. In any case, the karaoke is awesome (sometimes awesomely bad, sometimes surprisingly good) and the beer flows 24/7. Many people pass a night here, stumble into the morning light and wonder what they’ve done with their lives.
Cafe NegrilLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-383-5131; 606 Frenchmen St; cover $5; h6pm-2am Sun-Thu, from 4pm Fri & Sat)
When you spin the Frenchmen St musical wheel, Negril is the stop for reggae, blues, Latin and world music. So if you’re craving that sort of groove, and the dancing that goes with it (this is definitely one of the ‘dancier’ clubs on Frenchmen), roll on in.
d.b.a.LIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-942-3731; www.dbaneworleans.com; 618 Frenchmen St; cover $10-15; h4pm-5am; W)
Swank d.b.a. consistently schedules some of the best live-music events in town. Listening to John Boutté’s sweet tenor is one of the best beginnings to a night in New Orleans. Brass bands, rock shows, blues – everything plays here. Plus, there’s an amazing beer selection.
SiberiaLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-265-8855; www.siberianola.com; 2227 St Claude Ave; cover $5-10; h4pm-late) There’s always an interesting crowd in Siberia, which hosts everything from punk rock to singer-songwriter nights and from heavy metal to bounce shows. The on-site Eastern European–themed restaurant, Kukhnya, satisfies any cravings you may have for blinis and burgers.
Snug HarborJAZZ
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-949-0696; www.snugjazz.com; 626 Frenchmen St; cover $10-20; hshows at 8 & 10pm)
There may be bigger venues but Snug Harbor is still one of the best jazz clubs in the city. That’s partly because it usually hosts doubleheaders, giving you a good dose of variety, and partly because the talent is kept to an admirable mix of reliable legends and hot up-and-comers; in the course of one night you’ll likely witness both.
Saturn BarLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-949-7532; 3067 St Claude Ave; cover $5; h7pm-late)
In the solar system of New Orleans bars, Saturn is planet odd. Originally it was an eclectic neighborhood bar where regulars appreciated the outsider art, leopard-skin furniture and a general, genuinely unique aesthetic. Today the old punks and new scenesters are united by neon-lighting fixtures, flashy gambling machines and great live music. There is no cover charge on most nights.
Vaughan’sLIVE MUSIC
(MAP; %504-947-5562; 800 Lesseps St; cover $5-15; hnoon-late)
On most nights of the week this is a Bywater dive, but on Thursdays regular live music brings the house down. As small, intimate venues go, this can’t be beat. It also hosts frequent drag shows and neighborhood parties.
Blue NileLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-2583; www.bluenilelive.com; 532 Frenchmen St; cover $10-20; h8pm-late Mon-Wed, 7pm-4am Thu-Sat, 5:30pm-1am Sun)
Hip-hop, reggae, jazz, soul and funk are the live-music staples downstairs section of the Nile. Things get pretty sweaty and sensual in the upstairs balcony room, with its dedicated dance floor, as the night goes on.
Café IstanbulARTS CENTER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-975-0286; www.cafeistanbulnola.com; 2372 St Claude Ave)
This small live-performance venue hosts an eclectic mash-up of shows, ranging from live storytelling to bounce DJ nights and from slam poetry to amateur theater.
Three MusesJAZZ
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-252-4801; 536 Frenchmen St; h5-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
This excellent restaurant hosts jazz performances every night. It’s perfect for when you need to combine good food with music loud enough to enjoy, but soft enough to keep your ears from hurting. The kitchen closes at 10pm on weekdays and 11pm on weekends.
Dragon’s DenLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-940-5546; www.dragonsdennola.com; 435 Esplanade Ave; cover $5-10; h7pm-late)
When it comes to rock, dance hall, Latin, punk, EDM (electronic dance music) and hip-hop, the Den consistently hosts some of the best acts in New Orleans. Burlesque shows pop off on Saturdays. Closing time is flexible; the bar stays open to around 4am on weekends, earlier during the week.
Apple BarrelLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-949-9399; 609 Frenchmen St; h3pm-4am Mon-Thu, from 1pm Fri-Sun)
The Barrel is roughly the size of its namesake: you can fit perhaps a dozen customers in here without going elbow to elbow. It fits in musicians, too, who play very fine jazz, blues and folk.
MaisonLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-371-5543; www.maisonfrenchmen.com; 508 Frenchmen St; cover $5-10; h4pm-2am Mon-Thu, 1pm-4am Fri & Sat, 10am-2am Sun)
With three stages, a kitchen and a decent bar, Maison is one of the more varied performance spaces on Frenchmen St. On any given night you may be hearing Latin rumba in one hour, indie rock in another and brass to round out the evening.
Checkpoint CharlieLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-281-4847; 501 Esplanade Ave; cover $5-10; h24hr)
Charlie’s is so grungy it could start a band in early ’90s Seattle. Acts you’ve likely never heard of (plus some you might know) play a mix of rock, metal and punk, most of it very good.
Phoenix BarGAY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-945-9264; www.phoenixbarnola.com; 941 Elysian Fields Ave; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-2am Sat & Sun)
This is where the leather-and-denim community meets to rub each other’s stubble. Much more of a locals’ scene than similar spots in the Quarter.
New Movement TheaterTHEATER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/TNMnola; 2706 St Claude Ave)
New Movement hits well above the average number of laughs for improv theater. The company has a cast of regular local players and a stable schedule of classes that train new talent in the art of off-the-cuff comedy.
Art GaragePERFORMING ARTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-717-0750; www.facebook.com/theartgarageonstclaude; 2231 St Claude Ave)
This spot – truly, a former auto garage – frequently hosts events, readings and concerts, as well as gallery nights that kick off on the third Saturday of each month. The art and general vibe of the place is punk-hipster, and the spot is accessible via the Rampart St Streetcar. Check its Facebook page for a schedule of what’s happening.
Mudlark TheaterTHEATER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/mudlarkpublictheater; 1200 Port St)
This funky theater shows all kinds of independent and fringe theater shows, but it’s best known for its in-house puppet company, which performs with and creates its own giant, creepily beautiful puppets. The Mudlark players perform around town; check their Facebook page for upcoming shows.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
THE ST CLAUDE SHUFFLE
One of the best live-music strips in New Orleans can be found along St Claude Ave, at the stretch between Touro and Mandeville St. Just don’t expect jazz; the clubs here play hip-hop, rock, punk, EDM (electronic dance music) and all manner of genre-bending fun. If you want a night out with locals and good music, head up here to check out Hi Ho Lounge or any of these other great venues:
AllWays Lounge Cheeky burlesque, brass-band shows, swing-dance parties and R&B dance nights are all in the potential cards when you come by this popular performance hall.
Siberia This sweaty venue is a regular spot for loud punk, singer songwriters, bounce and hip-hop, and just about any other music genre under the sun.
Kajun’s Pub The talent of the karaoke cast at Kajun’s ranges from operatic renditions of glam metal to drunken slurring of ’90s R&B. But everyone has a good time, helped in part by extremely strong drinks coming from the bar.
7 Shopping
Louisiana Music FactoryMUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-586-1094; www.louisianamusicfactory.com; 421 Frenchmen St; h10am-7pm)
Here’s your first stop if you’re looking for music. The selection of new and used CDs delves deep into the musical culture of New Orleans and Louisiana, with recordings from the 1900s to the present. The listening stations are a great way to familiarize yourself with local artists. There’s also a nice selection of cool T-shirts, along with books, DVDs and posters.
Bywater Bargain CenterANTIQUES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-0007; 3200 Dauphine St; h11am-5pm)
This emporium is a treasure trove of, well, treasures, if you follow the old adage that one person’s junk is another’s…well, you know. There are found objects, old door frames, handmade crafts, plaster alligators playing zydeco and a whole lot more. Most impressive is a collection of Mexican folk art, including Oaxacan sculptures and Dia del Muerte paraphernalia.
Euclid RecordsMUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-947-4348; www.euclidnola.com; 3301 Chartres St; h11am-7pm)
New Orleans is the kind of town that deserves really cool record shops, and Euclid is happy to oblige. It’s got all the ingredients: racks of rare vinyl, old concert posters, knowledgeable staff and a board listing live-music performances you should see while in town.
I.J. Reilly’sARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-304-7928; www.facebook.com/I.J.Reillys; 632 Elysian Fields Ave; h10am-5pm Thu-Mon, 9am-4pm Wed)
How deeply New Orleans is this store? It’s named for Ignatious Reilly, protagonist of A Confederacy of Dunces, and located in the Kowalski house from A Streetcar Named Desire. Inside, the shop sells all manner of New Orleans gifts, from photography books to printed screens and local artwork.
Piety Street MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 612 Piety St; h10am-4pm 2nd Sat of month)
The monthly arts market held here gathers some of the most creative individuals in Bywater and Marigny. There’s usually street food on sale and activities for the kids. Check the Facebook page for updates on market times.
Faubourg Marigny Book StoreBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; FAB; %504-947-3700; www.fabonfrenchmen.com; 600 Frenchmen St; hnoon-10pm)
The South’s oldest gay bookstore is a ramshackle, intellectual spot, and a good place to pick up local ‘zines and catch up on the New Orleans scene, gay or otherwise.
Dr Bob’s StudioART
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-945-2225; www.drbobart.net; 3027 Chartres St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
New Orleans Art SupplyART
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-949-1525; www.nolabarkmarket.com; 3041 N Rampart St; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; #)
If you like to sketch while traveling, here’s a good place to go for a fresh supply of pencils, paint and pads. The selection is very high quality. There’s an attached pet shop (the Bark Market!), too, if you’re traveling with furry friends.
5 Press GalleryART
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-249-5624; www.5pressgallery.com; 5 Press St, btwn Chartres & Royal Sts; h10am-3pm Thu-Sun)
The New Orleans Center for Creative Arts is a fine regional arts-magnet school, and this gallery exhibits work by faculty, alumni students and visiting artists. It also hosts receptions from 6pm to 9pm on the second Saturday of each month.
Rubber Library & Flower BodegaBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-945-4662; www.rubberlibrary.net; 3240 Dauphine St; h11am-6pm Tue-Sat)
This two-story shop is what the name suggests: there’s a florist on the ground floor, and a used bookstore on the top floor with a kid-friendly reading nook and a radical political bent. If you’re in need of a gift for your sweetie and he or she likes wisteria and Emma Goldman, you’re in the perfect spot.
Island of Salvation BotanicaMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-9961; www.islandofsalvationbotanica.com; 2372 St Claude Ave; h10am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 8pm Fri, 11am-5pm Sun)
Run by genial owners who sell voodoo spells, cards, spell components and the like for serious practitioners of the faith.
New Orleans Art CenterART
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-383-4765; www.theneworleansartcenter.com; 3330 St Claude Ave; hnoon-6pm)
The largest gallery in Bywater features a constantly shifting tableau of exhibitions, ranging from photography to sculpture to mixed media to paintings. There’s a major social scene here from 6pm to 9pm on the second Saturday of each month.
LA46VINTAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-220-5177; 2232 St Claude Ave; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)
There are legions of thrift stores in this part of town, but LA46 is carefully curated, and the antiques, hi-fis, clothes, garden gear, furniture, decor, etc run the range from the beautifully strange to the strangely beautiful.
Artisans’ WellART
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-376-5006; 2372 St Claude Ave; h12:30-6pm Tue-Fri, to 4:30pm Sat)
This lovely little shop, operated by a Panamanian historian, specializes in indigenous arts and crafts from Mexico and Central America.
Electric LadylandBODY ART
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-947-8286; www.electricladylandtattoo.com; 610 Frenchmen St; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)
New Orleans is an old port filled with bars and a tattoo is just about the coolest souvenir you can get. This is a clean, brightly lit spot with talented ink artists on staff.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
STELLA!
Tennessee Williams fans, listen up. The home at the center of A Streetcar Named Desire is at 632 Elysian Fields Ave. Currently the building houses the shop I.J. Reilly’s and the bicycle rental outfit A Bicycle Named Desire. If you’re tempted to stand outside in a tank top and yell at the top of your lungs, you may wish to save the ‘Stella!’ screams for the Tennessee Williams Literary Festival (www.tennesseewilliams.net) in late March.
If you’ve ever wondered where the title for the iconic play comes from – yes, it does allude to the ‘desire’ that rips apart the lives of the main characters; but it’s also a literal reference to the old Desire streetcar line that once ran up Elysian Fields Ave.
2 Sports & Activities
Confederacy of CruisersCYCLING
(MAP; %504-400-5468; www.confederacyofcruisers.com; 634 Elysian Fields Ave; tours $49-89)
This company sets you up on cruiser bikes that come with fat tires and padded seats for Nola’s flat, potholed roads. The ‘Creole New Orleans’ tour takes in the best architecture of Marigny, Bywater, Esplanade Ave and the Tremé. Confederacy also does a ‘History of Drinking’ tour (for those 21 and over) and a tasty culinary tour.
Wild Lotus YogaYOGA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-899-0047; www.wildlotusyoga.com; 2372 St Claude Ave; class/1 week $33/50; h9am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 6:15pm Fri & Sun, to 5pm Sat)
Wild Lotus is a beloved local yoga institution. Its classes, from mellow flow to hot vinyasa, are open to visitors to town. Check the website for a complete class schedule.
New Orleans Boulder LoungeCLIMBING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-962-7609; www.climbnobl.com/st-claude; 2360 St Claude Ave; day pass adult/child $16/10; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sat & Sun; c)
In a city and state that aren’t exactly known for their elevation and altitude, the New Orleans Boulder Lounge is there to feed your climbing fix. You’ll be climbing without rope and harness; the walls range from 12–14ft and there are padded foam floors to land on. Shoe rental is $4.